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Title: The Boston cooking-school cook book
Author: Fannie Merritt Farmer
Release Date: April 11, 2021 [eBook #65061]
Language: English
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK BOOK ***

Transcriber’s Note:

The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.

Table laid for Formal Dinner.—Frontispiece.

# THE
BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL
COOK BOOK

BY
FANNIE MERRITT FARMER
Of Miss Farmer’s School of Cookery
AUTHOR OF “CHAFING-DISH POSSIBILITIES,” AND “FOOD AND COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND CONVALESCENT”
REVISED
WITH ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY-FIVE NEW RECIPES, THE RECIPES FROM THE APPENDIX AND THE ADDENDA INTRODUCED IN LOGICAL ORDER THROUGHOUT THE BOOK, AND ONE HUNDRED HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS
BOSTON
LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY
1910
Copyright, 1896, 1900, 1901, 1902, 1903, 1904, 1905, 1906
By Fannie Merritt Farmer
TO
MRS. WILLIAM B. SEWALL,
President of the Boston Cooking School,
IN APPRECIATION OF HER HELPFUL ENCOURAGEMENT AND UNTIRING EFFORTS IN PROMOTING THE WORK OF SCIENTIFIC COOKERY, WHICH MEANS THE ELEVATION OF THE HUMAN RACE,
THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
By the Author.

Cookery means the knowledge of Medea and of Circe and of Helen and of the Queen of Sheba. It means the knowledge of all herbs and fruits and balms and spices, and all that is healing and sweet in the fields and groves and savory in meats. It means carefulness and inventiveness and willingness and readiness of appliances. It means the economy of your grandmothers and the science of the modern chemist; it means much testing and no wasting; it means English thoroughness and French art and Arabian hospitality; and, in fine, it means that you are to be perfectly and always ladies—loaf givers.—Ruskin.

## PREFACE

“But for life the universe were nothing; and all that has life requires nourishment.”

With the progress of knowledge the needs of the human body have not been forgotten. During the last decade much time has been given by scientists to the study of foods and their dietetic value, and it is a subject which rightfully should demand much consideration from all. I certainly feel that the time is not far distant when a knowledge of the principles of diet will be an essential part of one’s education. Then mankind will eat to live, will be able to do better mental and physical work, and disease will be less frequent.

At the earnest solicitation of educators, pupils, and friends, I have been urged to prepare this book, and I trust it may be a help to many who need its aid. It is my wish that it may not only be looked upon as a compilation of tried and tested recipes, but that it may awaken an interest through its condensed scientific knowledge which will lead to deeper thought and broader study of what to eat.

F. M. F.
ix

## TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter |  | Page
--- | --- | ---
I. | Food | 1
II. | Cookery | 15
III. | Beverages | 32
IV. | Bread and Bread Making | 46
V. | Biscuits, Breakfast Cakes, and Shortcakes | 70
VI. | Cereals | 85
VII. | Eggs | 94
VIII. | Soups | 109
IX. | Soups without Stock | 135
X. | Soup Garnishings and Force-meats | 145
XI. | Fish | 151
XII. | Beef | 191
XIII. | Lamb and Mutton | 214
XIV. | Veal | 226
XV. | Sweetbreads | 232
XVI. | Pork | 235
XVII. | Poultry and Game | 240
XVIII. | Fish and Meat Sauces | 265
XIX. | Vegetables | 280
XX. | Potatoes | 309
XXI. | Salads and Salad Dressings | 322
XXII. | Entrées | 348
XXIII. | Hot Puddings | 390
XXIV. | Pudding Sauces | 406
xXXV. | Cold Desserts | 411
XXVI. | Ices, Ice Creams, and other Frozen Desserts | 433
XXVII. | Pastry | 460
XXVIII. | Pies | 466
XXIX. | Pastry Desserts | 475
XXX. | Gingerbreads, Cookies, and Wafers | 482
XXXI. | Cake | 497
XXXII. | Cake Fillings and Frostings | 524
XXXIII. | Fancy Cakes and Confections | 533
XXXIV. | Sandwiches and Canapés | 549
XXXV. | Recipes for the Chafing-dish | 556
XXXVI. | Fruits: Fresh, Preserved, and Canned | 567
XXXVII. | Helpful Hints for the Young Housekeeper | 586
XXXVIII. | Suitable Combinations for Serving | 592
| Breakfast Menus | 592
| Luncheon Menus | 594
| Dinner Menus | 597
| Menu for Thanksgiving Dinner | 600
| Menu for Christmas Dinner | 600
| A Full Course Dinner | 600
| Menus for Full Course Dinners | 602
Glossary | 605
Miss Farmer’s School of Cookery | 607
Index | 617

xi

## LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Table laid for Formal Dinner | Frontispiece
| Facing Page
--- | ---
A Group of Kitchen Utensils | 14
Measuring Cups and Tea and Table Measuring Spoons | 15
The Whipping of Heavy and Thin Cream | 15
Five o’Clock Tea Service | 34
Chocolate Service | 34
Coffee Percolators and Pot | 35
After-Dinner Coffee Service | 35
Punch Service | 44
Claret Cup Service | 44
Double Loaves of Milk and Water Bread | 45
Boston Brown Bread | 45
Parker House Rolls; Salad Rolls; Clover Leaf Biscuit; Sticks | 58
Sweet French Rolls | 58
Coffee Cakes (Brioche) | 59
Swedish Tea Ring; Swedish Tea Braid | 59
Swedish Tea Ring II before baking | 64
Swedish Tea Ring II | 64
Raised Hominy Muffins | 65
Pop-Overs | 65
Waffles | 80
Strawberry Shortcake | 80
Shirred Egg | 81
Eggs à la Commodore | 81
Planked Eggs | 104
xiiPlain Omelet | 104
Utensils and Materials for the starting of Brown Soup Stock | 105
Utensils for making Cream Soups | 134
Cream Soup and Croûtons ready for serving | 134
Croûtons; Imperial Sticks; Mock Almonds | 135
Souffléd Crackers | 135
Broiled Mackerel garnished with Potato Balls, Cucumber Ribbons, Slices of Lemon cut in fancy shapes, and Parsley | 160
Hollenden Halibut | 160
Stuffed Haddock ready for baking | 161
Smelts prepared for cooking | 161
Planked Haddock | 170
Fillets of Fish à la Bement | 170
Oyster Cocktail I and II | 171
Clams Union League | 186
Oysters à la Ballard | 186
Lobster Cocktail | 187
Fruit Cocktail | 187
Cuts of Beef | 194
Cuts of Beef | 195
Planks for Planked Dishes | 200
Beefsteak à la Maribeau | 200
Side of Veal | 201
Side of Lamb | 201
Kidney Lamb Chop; Rib Chop; French Chop | 218
Crown of Lamb, prepared for roasting | 218
Saddle of Mutton as purchased | 219
Saddle of Mutton Roasted and Garnished | 219
Sweetbreads à la Napoli | 234
Braised Sweetbreads Eugénie | 234
Breslin Potted Chicken in Casserole Dish | 235
Chicken Broiled and Garnished | 235
Roast Turkey garnished for serving | 256
xiiiDuck, stuffed and trussed for roasting | 256
Stuffed Egg Plant | 257
Purée of Spinach | 257
Macedoine of Vegetables à la Poulette | 308
Stuffed Peppers | 308
O’Brion Potatoes | 309
Potato Croquettes ready for frying | 316
Potato Nests and Potatoes, Somerset Style | 316
Cucumber Salad | 317
Cucumber Baskets | 317
Asparagus Salad, Individual Service | 330
Berkshire Salad in Boxes | 330
Egg Salad | 331
Pear Salad | 331
Mexican Jelly | 342
Lobster Salad III | 342
Oyster Crabs à la Newburg, Individual Service | 343
Sweetbread Ramequins | 343
Russian Cutlets | 374
Dresden Patties | 374
Devilled Crabs | 375
Pan Broiled Lamb Chops à la Lucullus | 375
Chaud-froid of Eggs | 386
Capon in Aspic | 386
Harvard Pudding served with Crushed Berries and Whipped Cream | 387
Snowballs garnished with Strawberries | 387
Toasted Marshmallows | 422
Royal Diplomatic Pudding | 422
Charlotte Russe | 423
Orange Trifle garnished with Whipped Cream, Candied Orange Peel, and Blossoms | 423
Coup Sicilienne | 442
Coup à l’Ananas | 442
Coffee Ice Cream served in half of Cantaloupe | 442
xivVanilla Ice Cream served in half of Cantaloupe with Fruit Garnish | 442
Bombe Glacée | 443
Junket Ice Cream with Peaches | 443
Utensils and Materials for the making of Puff Paste | 460
Calvé Tarts | 460
Patties garnished with Pastry Rings and Parsley | 461
English Meat Pie | 461
Cheese Straws | 474
Cocoanut Tea Cakes | 474
Fruit Baskets | 475
Lemon Tartlets | 475
Rich Cookies | 488
Royal Fans | 488
Chocolate Cakes and Crescents | 489
Meringues | 489
English Rolled Wafers I-II | 494
Marguerites I | 494
Mocha Cakes and Small Éclairs | 495
Ice Cream Cake with Nut Caramel Frosting | 495
Cake frosted for St. Valentine’s Day for the use of Mocha Frosting | 532
Ornamental Frosted Cake | 532
Dipped Walnuts | 533
Bonbons | 533
Cream Mints | 548
Candied Orange Peel | 548
Bread and Butter Folds | 549
Noisette Sandwiches | 549
Lobster Canapé | 554
Canapé Martha | 554
Jelly Bag and other necessary utensils for jelly making | 555
Marmalades, Jams, and Jellies | 555
Utensils necessary for canning | 576
Canned Fruits | 576
xvRed Peppers being prepared for canning | 577
Pickles ready for serving and Crock for keeping Pickles | 577
Table laid for Breakfast | 592
Luncheon Table laid for Fish Course | 593
Table laid for Formal Luncheon | 596
Centrepiece for Luncheon or Dinner Table | 597
Centrepiece for Thanksgiving Dinner Table | 597
Christmas Dinner Table | 600
Table laid for Reception | 601

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK BOOK
1

## CHAPTER I
FOOD

Food is anything which nourishes the body. From fifteen to twenty elements enter into the composition of the body, of which the following thirteen are considered: oxygen, 62½%; carbon, 21½%; hydrogen, 10%; nitrogen, 3%; calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sulphur, chlorine, sodium, magnesium, iron, and fluorine the remaining 3%.

Food is necessary for growth, repair, and energy; therefore the elements composing the body must be found in the food. The thirteen elements named are formed into chemical compounds by the vegetable and animal kingdoms to support the highest order of being, man. All food must undergo chemical change after being taken into the body, before it can be utilized by the body; this is the office of the digestive system.

Food is classified as follows:—

I. | Organic | 1. Proteid (nitrogenous or albuminous) 2. Carbohydrates (sugar and starch) 3. Fats and oils
II. | Inorganic | 1. Mineral matter 2. Water

The chief office of proteids is to build and repair tissues. They furnish energy, but at greater cost than carbohydrates, fats, and oils. They contain nitrogen, carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and sulphur or phosphorus, and include all forms of 2animal foods (excepting fats and glycogen) and some vegetable foods. Examples: milk, cheese, eggs, meat, fish, cereals, peas, beans, and lentils. The principal constituent of proteid food is albumen. Albumen as found in food takes different names, but has the same chemical composition; as, albumen in eggs, fibrin in meat, casein in milk and cheese, vegetable casein or legumen in peas, beans, and lentils; and gluten in wheat. To this same class belongs gelatin.

The chief office of the carbohydrates is to furnish energy and maintain heat. They contain carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and include foods containing starch and sugar. Examples: vegetables, fruits, cereals, sugars, and gums.

The chief office of fats and oils is to store energy and heat to be used as needed, and constitute the adipose tissues of the body. Examples: butter, cream, fat of meat, fish, cereals, nuts, and the berry of the olive-tree.

The chief office of mineral matter is to furnish the necessary salts which are found in all animal and vegetable foods. Examples: sodium chloride (common salt); carbonates, sulphates and phosphates of sodium, potassium, and magnesium; besides calcium phosphates and iron.

Water constitutes about two-thirds the weight of the body, and is in all tissues and fluids; therefore its abundant use is necessary. One of the greatest errors in diet is neglect to take enough water; while it is found in all animal and vegetable food, the amount is insufficient.

### CORRECT PROPORTIONS OF FOOD

Age, sex, occupation, climate, and season must determine the diet of a person in normal condition.

Liquid food (milk or milk in preparation with the various prepared foods on the market) should constitute the diet of a child for the first eighteen months. After the teeth appear, by which time ferments have been developed for the digestion of starchy foods, entire wheat bread, baked potatoes, cereals, meat broths, and occasionally boiled eggs may be given. If mothers would use Dr. Johnson’s Educators in place of the various sweet crackers, children would be as 3well pleased and better nourished; with a glass of milk they form a supper suited to the needs of little ones, and experience has shown that children seldom tire of them. The diet should be gradually increased by the addition of cooked fruits, vegetables, and simple desserts; the third or fourth year fish and meat may be introduced, if given sparingly. Always avoid salted meats, coarse vegetables (beets, carrots, and turnips), cheese, fried food, pastry, rich desserts, confections, condiments, tea, coffee, and iced water. For school children the diet should be varied and abundant, constantly bearing in mind that this is a period of great mental and physical growth. Where children have broken down, supposedly from over-work, the cause has often been traced to impoverished diet. It must not be forgotten that digestive processes go on so rapidly that the stomach is soon emptied. Thanks to the institutor of the school luncheon-counter!

The daily average ration of an adult requires

4½ oz. proteid
2 oz. fat
18 oz. starch
5 pints water

About one-third of the water is taken in our food, the remainder as a beverage. To keep in health and do the best mental and physical work, authorities agree that a mixed diet is suited for temperate climates, although sound arguments appear from the vegetarian. Women, even though they do the same amount of work as men, as a rule require less food. Brain workers should take their proteid in a form easily digested. In consideration of this fact, fish and eggs form desirable substitutes for meat. The working man needs quantity as well as quality, that the stomach may have something to act upon. Corned beef, cabbage, brown-bread, and pastry, will not overtax his digestion. In old age the digestive organs lessen in activity, and the diet should be almost as simple as that of a child, increasing the amount of carbohydrates and decreasing the amount of proteids and fat. Many diseases which occur after middle life are due to eating and drinking such foods as were indulged in during vigorous manhood.

4

### WATER (H2O)

Water is a transparent, odorless, tasteless liquid. It is derived from five sources,—rains, rivers, surface-water or shallow wells, deep wells, and springs. Water is never found pure in nature; it is nearly pure when gathered in an open field, after a heavy rainfall, or from springs. For town and city supply, surface-water is furnished by some adjacent pond or lake. Samples of such water are carefully and frequently analyzed, to make sure that it is not polluted with disease germs.

The hardness of water depends upon the amount of salts of lime and magnesia which it contains. Soft water is free from objectionable salts, and is preferable for household purposes. Hard water may be softened by boiling, or by the addition of a small amount of bicarbonate of soda (NaHCO3).

Water freezes at a temperature of 32° F., boils at 212° F.; when bubbles appear on the surface and burst, the boiling-point is reached. In high altitudes water boils at a lower temperature. From 32° to 65° F. water is termed cold; from 65° to 92° F., tepid; 92° to 100° F., warm; over that temperature, hot. Boiled water is freed from all organic impurities, and salts of lime are precipitated: it does not ferment, and is a valuable antiseptic. Hot water is more stimulating than cold, and is of use taken on an empty stomach, while at a temperature of from 60° to 95° F. it is used as an emetic; 90° F. being the most favorable temperature.

Distilled water is chemically pure and is always used for medicinal purposes. It is flat and insipid to the taste, having been deprived of its atmospheric gases.

There are many charged, carbonated, and mineral spring waters bottled and put on the market; many of these are used as agreeable table beverages. Examples: Soda Water, Apollinaris, Poland, Seltzer, and Vichy. Some contain minerals of medicinal value. Examples: Lithia, saline, and sulphur waters.

5

### SALTS

Of all salts found in the body, the most abundant and valuable is sodium chloride (NaCl), common salt; it exists in all tissues, secretions, and fluids of the body, with the exception of enamel of the teeth. The amount found in food is not always sufficient; therefore salt is used as a condiment. It assists digestion, inasmuch as it furnishes chlorine for hydrochloric acid found in gastric juice.

Common salt is obtained from evaporation of spring and sea-water, also from mines. Our supply of salt obtained by evaporation comes chiefly from Michigan and New York; mined salt from Louisiana and Kansas.

Salt is a great preservative; advantage is taken of this in salting meat and fish.

Other salts—lime, phosphorus, magnesia, potash, sulphur, and iron—are obtained in sufficient quantity from food we eat and water we drink. In young children, perfect formation of bones and teeth depends upon phosphorus and lime taken into the system; these are found in meat and fish, but abound in cereals.

### STARCH (C6H10O5)

Starch is a white, glistening powder; it is largely distributed throughout the vegetable kingdom, being found most abundantly in cereals and potatoes. Being a force-producer and heat-giver it forms one of the most important foods. Alone it cannot sustain life, but must be taken in combination with foods which build and repair tissues.

Test for Starch. A weak solution of iodine added to cold cooked starch gives an intense blue color.

Starch is insoluble in cold water, and soluble to but a small extent in boiling water. Cold water separates starch-grains, boiling water causes them to swell and burst, thus forming a paste.

Starch subjected to dry heat is changed to dextrine (C6H10O5), British gum. Dextrine subjected to heat plus an 6acid or a ferment is changed to dextrose (C6H12O6). Dextrose occurs in ripe fruit, honey, sweet wine, and as a manufactured product. When grain is allowed to germinate for malting purposes, starch is changed to dextrine and dextrose. In fermentation, dextrose is changed to alcohol (C2H5HO) and carbon dioxide (CO2). Examples: bread making, vinegar, and distilled liquors.

Glycogen, animal starch, is found in many animal tissues and in some fungi. Examples: in liver of meat and oysters.

Raw starch is not digestible; consequently all foods containing starch should be subjected to boiling water or dry heat, and thoroughly cooked. Starch is manufactured from wheat, corn, and potatoes. Corn-starch is manufactured from Indian corn. Arrowroot, the purest form of starch, is obtained from two or three species of the Maranta plant, which grows in the West Indies and other tropical countries. Bermuda arrowroot is most highly esteemed. Tapioca is starch obtained from tuberous roots of the bitter cassava, native of South America. Sago is starch obtained from sago palms, native of India.

### SUGAR (C12H22O11)

Sugar is a crystalline substance, differing from starch by its sweet taste and solubility in cold water. As food, its uses are the same as starch; all starch must be converted into sugar before it can be assimilated.

The principal kinds of sugar are: cane sugar or sucrose, grape sugar or glucose (C6H12O6), milk sugar or lactose (C12H22O11), and fruit sugar or levulose (C6H12O6).

Cane sugar is obtained from sugar cane, beets, and the palm and sugar-maple trees. Sugar cane is a grass supposed to be native to Southern Asia, but now grown throughout the tropics, a large amount coming from Cuba and Louisiana; it is the commonest of all, and in all cases the manufacture is essentially the same. The products of manufacture are: molasses, syrup, brown sugar, loaf, cut, granulated, powdered, and confectioners’ sugar. Brown sugar is cheapest, but is not so pure or sweet as white 7grades; powdered and confectioners’ sugars are fine grades, pulverized, and, although seeming less sweet to the taste, are equally pure. Confectioners’ sugar when applied to the tongue will dissolve at once; powdered sugar is a little granular.

Cane sugar when added to fruits, and allowed to cook for some time, changes to grape sugar, losing one-third of its sweetness; therefore the reason for adding it when fruit is nearly cooked. Cane sugar is of great preservative value, hence its use in preserving fruits and milk; also, for the preparation of syrups.

Three changes take place in the cooking of sugar: first, barley sugar; second, caramel; third, carbon.

Grape sugar is found in honey and all sweet fruits. It appears on the outside of dried fruits, such as raisins, dates, etc., and is only two-thirds as sweet as cane sugar. As a manufactured product it is obtained from the starch of corn.

Milk sugar is obtained from the milk of mammalia, but unlike cane sugar does not ferment.

Fruit sugar is obtained from sweet fruits, and is sold as diabetin, is sweeter than cane sugar, and is principally used by diabetic patients.

### GUM, PECTOSE, AND CELLULOSE

These compounds found in food are closely allied to the carbohydrates, but are neither starchy, saccharine, nor oily. Gum exists in the juices of almost all plants, coming from the stems, branches, and fruits. Examples: gum arabic, gum tragacanth, and mucilage. Pectose exists in the fleshy pulp of unripe fruit; during the process of ripening it changes to pectin; by cooking, pectin is changed to pectosic acid, and by longer cooking to pectic acid. Pectosic acid is jelly-like when cold; pectic acid is jelly-like when hot or cold. Cellulose constitutes the cell-walls of vegetable life; in very young vegetables it is possible that it can be acted upon by the digestive ferments; in older vegetables it becomes woody and completely indigestible.

8

### FATS AND OILS

Fats and oils are found in both the animal and vegetable kingdom. Fats are solid; oils are liquid; they may be converted into a liquid state by application of heat; they contain three substances,—stearin (solid), olein (liquid), palmitin (semi-solid). Suet is an example where stearin is found in excess; lard, where olein is in excess; and butter, where palmitin is in excess. Margarin is a mixture of stearin and palmitin. The fatty acids are formed of stearin, olein, and palmitin, with glycerine as the base. Examples: stearic, palmitic, and oleic acid. Butyric acid is acid found in butter. These are not sour to the taste, but are called acids on account of their chemical composition.

Among animal fats cream and butter are of first importance as foods, on account of their easy assimilation. Other examples are: the fat of meats, bone-marrow, suet (the best found around the loin and kidneys of the beef creature), lard, cottolene, coto suet, cocoanut butter, butterine, and oleomargarine. The principal animal oils are cod liver oil and oil found in the yolk of egg; principal vegetable oils are olive, cottonseed, poppy, and cocoanut oils, and oils obtained from various nuts.

Oils are divided into two classes, essential and fixed. Essential oils are volatile and soluble in alcohol. Examples: clove, rose, nutmeg, and violet. Fixed oils are non-volatile and soluble in ether, oil, or turpentine. Examples: oil of nuts, corn meal, and mustard.

Fats may be heated to a high temperature, as considered in cookery they have no boiling-point. When appearing to boil, it is evident water has been added, and the temperature lowered to that of boiling water, 212° F.

9

### MILK

COMPOSITION
Proteid, 3.4%
Fat, 4%
Mineral matter, .7%
Water, 87%
Lactose, 4.9%
Boston Chemist.

The value of milk as a food is obvious from the fact that it constitutes the natural food of all young mammalia during the period of their most rapid growth. There is some danger, however, of overestimating its value in the dietary of adults, as solid food is essential, and liquid taken should act as a stimulant and a solvent rather than as a nutrient. One obtains the greatest benefit from milk when taken alone at regular intervals between meals, or before retiring, and sipped, rather than drunk. Hot milk is often given to produce sleep.

When milk is allowed to stand for a few hours, the globules of fat, which have been held in suspension throughout the liquid, rise to the top in the form of cream; this is due to their lower specific gravity.

The difference in quality of milk depends chiefly on the quantity of fat therein: casein, lactose, and mineral matter being nearly constant, water varying but little unless milk is adulterated.

Why Milk Sours. A germ found floating in the air attacks a portion of the lactose in the milk, converting it into lactic acid; this, in turn, acts upon the casein (proteid) and precipitates it, producing what is known as curd and whey. Whey contains water, salts, and some sugar.

Milk is preserved by sterilization, pasteurization, and evaporation. Fresh condensed milk, a form of evaporized milk, is sold in bulk, and is preferred by many to serve with coffee. Various brands of condensed milk and cream are on the market in tin cans, hermetically sealed. Examples: Nestle’s Swiss Condensed Milk, Eagle Condensed Milk, Daisy Condensed Milk, Highland Evaporated Cream, Borden’s Peerless Evaporated Cream. Malted milk—evaporized milk in combination 10with extracts of malted barley and wheat—is used to a considerable extent; it is sold in the form of powder.

Thin, or strawberry, and thick cream may be obtained from almost all creameries. Devonshire, or clotted cream, is cream which has been removed from milk allowed to heat slowly to a temperature of about 150° F.

In feeding infants with milk, sterilization or pasteurization is sometimes recommended to avoid danger of infectious germs. By this process milk can be kept for many days, and transported if necessary. To prevent acidity of the stomach, add from one to two teaspoonfuls of lime water to each half-pint of milk. Lime water may be bought at any druggist’s, or easily prepared at home.

Lime Water. Pour two quarts boiling water over an inch cube unslacked lime; stir thoroughly and stand over night; in the morning pour off the liquid that is clear, and bottle for use. Keep in a cool place.

### BUTTER

COMPOSITION
Fat, 93%
Water, 5.34%
Mineral matter, .95%
Casein, .71%
Pratt Institute.

Butter of commerce is made from cream of cow’s milk. The quality depends upon the breed of cow, manner of, and care in, feeding. Milk from Jersey and Guernsey cows yields the largest amount of butter.

Butter should be kept in a cool place and well covered, otherwise it is liable to become rancid; this is due to the albuminous constituents of the milk, acting as a ferment, setting free the fatty acids. First-quality butter should be used; this does not include pat butter or fancy grades. Poor butter has not been as thoroughly worked during manufacture, consequently more casein remains; therefore it is more apt to become rancid. Fresh butter spoils quickly; salt acts as a preservative. Butter which has become rancid by too long keeping may be greatly improved by melting, 11heating, and quickly chilling with ice-water. The butter will rise to the top, and may be easily removed.

Where butter cannot be afforded, there are several products on the market which have the same chemical composition as butter, and are equally wholesome. Examples: butterine and oleomargarine.

Buttermilk is liquid remaining after butter “has come.” When taken fresh, it makes a wholesome beverage.

### CHEESE

COMPOSITION
Proteid, 31.23%
Fat, 34.39%
Water, 30.17%
Mineral matter, 4.31%

Cheese is the solid part of sweet milk obtained by heating milk and coagulating it by means of rennet or an acid. Rennet is an infusion made from prepared inner membrane of the fourth stomach of the calf. The curd is salted and subjected to pressure. Cheese is made from skim milk, milk plus cream, or cream. Cheese is kept for a longer or shorter time, according to the kind, that fermentation or decomposition may take place. This is called ripening. Some cream cheeses are not allowed to ripen. Milk from Jersey and Guernsey cows yields the largest amount of cheese.

Cheese is very valuable food; being rich in proteid, it may be used as a substitute for meat. A pound of cheese is equal in proteid to two pounds of beef. Cheese in the raw state is difficult of digestion. This is somewhat overcome by cooking and adding a small amount of bicarbonate of soda. A small piece of rich cheese is often eaten to assist digestion.

The various brands of cheese take their names from the places where made. Many foreign ones are now well imitated in this country. The favorite kinds of skim-milk cheese are: Edam, Gruyère, and Parmesan. Parmesan is very hard and used principally for grating. The holes in Gruyère are due to aeration.

The favorite kinds of milk cheese are: Gloucester, Cheshire, 12Cheddar, and Gorgonzola; Milk and Cream cheese: Stilton and Double Gloucester; Cream cheese: Brie, Neufchâtel, and Camembert.

### FRUITS

The varieties of fruits consumed are numerous, and their uses important. They are chiefly valuable for their sugar, acids, and salts, and are cooling, refreshing, and stimulating. They act as a tonic, and assist in purifying the blood. Many contain a jelly-like substance, called pectin, and several contain starch, which during the ripening process is converted into glucose. Bananas, dates, figs, prunes, and grapes, owing to their large amount of sugar, are the most nutritious. Melons, oranges, lemons, and grapes contain the largest amount of water. Apples, lemons, and oranges are valuable for their potash salts, and oranges and lemons especially valuable for their citric acid. It is of importance to those who are obliged to exclude much sugar from their dietary, to know that plums, peaches, apricots, and raspberries have less sugar than other fruits; apples, sweet cherries, grapes, and pears contain the largest amount. Apples are obtainable nearly all the year, and on account of their variety, cheapness, and abundance, are termed queen of fruits.

Thoroughly ripe fruits should be freely indulged in, and to many are more acceptable than desserts prepared in the kitchen. If possible, fruits should always appear on the breakfast-table. In cases where uncooked fruit cannot be freely eaten, many kinds may be cooked and prove valuable. Never eat unripe fruit, or that which is beginning to decay. Fruits should be wiped or rinsed before serving.

### VEGETABLE ACIDS, AND WHERE FOUND

The principal vegetable acids are:

I. Acetic (HC2H3O2), found in wine and vinegar.

II. Tartaric (H2C4H4O6), found in grapes, pineapples, and tamarinds.

III. Malic, much like tartaric, found in apples, pears, peaches, apricots, gooseberries, and currants.

13IV. Citric (H3C6H5O7), found in lemons, oranges, limes, and citron.

V. Oxalic (H2C2O4), found in rhubarb and sorrel.

To these may be added tannic acid, obtained from gall nuts. Some fruits contain two or more acids. Malic and citric are found in strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, and cherries; malic, citric, and oxalic in cranberries.

### CONDIMENTS

Condiments are not classed among foods, but are known as food adjuncts. They are used to stimulate the appetite by adding flavor to food. Among the most important are salt, spices, and various flavorings. Salt, according to some authorities, is called a food, being necessary to life.

Black pepper is ground peppercorns. Peppercorns are the dried berries of Piper nigrum, grown in the West Indies, Sumatra, and other eastern countries.

White pepper is made from the same berry, the outer husk being removed before grinding. It is less irritating than black pepper to the coating of the stomach.

Cayenne pepper is the powdered pod of Capsicum grown on the eastern coast of Africa and in Zanzibar.

Mustard is the ground seed of two species of the Brassica. Brassica alba yields white mustard seeds; Brassica nigra, black mustard seeds. Both species are grown in Europe and America.

Ginger is the pulverized dried root of Zanzibar officinale, grown in Jamaica, China, and India. Commercially speaking, there are three grades,—Jamaica, best and strongest; Cochin, and African.

Cinnamon is the ground inner bark of Cinnamomum zeylanicum, principally grown in Ceylon. The cinnamon of commerce (cassia) is the powdered bark of different species of the same shrub, which is principally grown in China, and called Chinese cinnamon. It is cheaper than true cinnamon.

Clove is the ground flower buds of Caryophyllus aromaticus, native to the Moluccas or Spice Islands, but now grown principally in Zanzibar, Pemba, and the West Indies.

14 Pimento (commonly called allspice) is the ground fruit of Eugenia pimenta, grown in Jamaica and the West Indies.

Nutmeg is the kernel of the fruit of the Myristica fragans, grown in Banda Islands.

Mace. The fibrous network which envelops the nutmeg seed constitutes the mace of commerce.

Vinegar is made from apple cider, malt, and wine, and is the product of fermentation. It is a great preservative; hence its use in the making of pickles, sauces, and other condiments. The amount of acetic acid in vinegar varies from two to seven per cent.

Capers are flower buds of Capparis spinosa, grown in countries bordering the Mediterranean. They are preserved in vinegar, and bottled for importation.

Horseradish is the root of Cochliaria armoracia,—a plant native to Europe, but now grown in our own country. It is generally grated, mixed with vinegar, and bottled.

### FLAVORING EXTRACTS

Many flavoring extracts are on the market. Examples: almond, vanilla, lemon, orange, peach, and rose. These are made from the flower, fruit, or seed from which they are named. Strawberry, pineapple, and banana extracts are manufactured from chemicals.

A group of kitchen utensils.—Page 14.

Measuring cups and teaspoons and tablespoons illustrating the measuring of dry ingredients, butter, and liquids.—Page 25.

The Whipping of heavy and thin Cream.—Page 425.

15

## CHAPTER II
COOKERY

Cookery is the art of preparing food for the nourishment of the body.

Prehistoric man may have lived on uncooked foods, but there are no savage races to-day who do not practise cookery in some way, however crude. Progress in civilization has been accompanied by progress in cookery.

Much time has been given in the last few years to the study of foods, their necessary proportions, and manner of cooking them. Educators have been shown by scientists that this knowledge should be disseminated; as a result, “Cookery” is found in the curriculum of public schools of many of our towns and cities.

Food is cooked to develop new flavors, to make it more palatable and digestible, and to destroy micro-organisms. For cooking there are three essentials (besides the material to be cooked),—heat, air, and moisture.

Heat is molecular motion, and is produced by combustion. Heat used for cookery is obtained by the combustion of inflammable substances—wood, coal, charcoal, coke, gas, gasoline, kerosene, and alcohol—called fuels. Heat for cookery is applied by radiation, conduction, and convection.

Air is composed of oxygen, nitrogen, and argon, and surrounds everything. Combustion cannot take place without it, the oxygen of the air being the only supporter of combustion.

Moisture, in the form of water, either found in the food or added to it.

The combined effect of heat and moisture swells and bursts starch-grains; hardens albumen in eggs, fish, and meat; softens fibrous portions of meat, and cellulose of vegetables.

16Among fuels, kerosene oil is the cheapest; gas gives the greatest amount of heat in the shortest time. Soft wood, like pine, on account of its coarse fibre, burns quickly; therefore makes the best kindling. Hard wood, like oak and ash, having the fibres closely packed, burns slowly, and is used in addition to pine wood for kindling coal. Where only wood is used as a fuel, it is principally hard wood.

Charcoal for fuel is produced by the smothered combustion of wood. It gives an intense, even heat, therefore makes a good broiling fire. Its use for kindling is not infrequent.

There are two kinds of coal: Anthracite, or hard coal. Examples: Hard and free-burning White Ash, Shamokin, and Franklin. Nut is any kind of hard coal obtained from screenings. Bituminous, or soft coal. Example: cannel coal.

Coke is the solid product of carbonized coal, and bears the same relation to coal that charcoal bears to wood.

Alcohol is employed as fuel when the chafing-dish is used.

### FIRE

Fire for cookery is confined in a stove or range, so that heat may be utilized and regulated. Flame-heat is obtained from kerosene, gas, or alcohol, as used in oil-stoves, gas-stoves or gas-ranges, and chafing-dishes.

A cooking-stove is a large iron box set on legs. It has a fire-box in the front, the sides of which are lined with fireproof material similar to that of which bricks are made. The bottom is furnished with a movable iron grate. Underneath the fire-box is a space which extends from the grate to a pan for receiving ashes. At the back of fire-box is a compartment called the oven, accessible on each side of the stove by a door. Between the oven and the top of the stove is a space for the circulation of air.

Stoves are connected with chimney-flues by means of a stovepipe, and have dampers to regulate the supply of air and heat, and as an outlet for smoke and gases.

The damper below the fire-box is known as the front damper, by means of which the air supply is regulated, thus regulating the heat.

17The oven is heated by a circulation of hot air. This is accomplished by closing the oven-damper, which is situated near the oven. When this damper is left open, the hot air rushes up the chimney. The damper near the chimney is known as the chimney-damper. When open it gives a free outlet for the escape of smoke and gas. When partially closed, as is usually the case in most ranges, except when the fire is started, it serves as a saver of heat. There is also a check, which, when open, cools the fire and saves heat, but should always be closed except when used for this purpose.

Stoves are but seldom used, portable ranges having taken their places.

A portable range is a cooking-stove with one oven door; it often has an under oven, of use for warming dishes and keeping food hot.

A set range is built in a fireplace. It usually has two ovens, one on each side of the fire-box, or two above it at the back. Set ranges, as they consume so large an amount of fuel, are being replaced by portable ones.

### HOW TO BUILD A FIRE

Before starting to build a fire, free the grate from ashes. To do this, put on covers, close front and back dampers, and open oven-damper; turn grate, and ashes will fall into the ash receiver. If these rules are not followed, ashes will fly over the room. Turn grate back into place, remove the covers over fire-box, and cover grate with pieces of paper (twisted in centre and left loose at the ends). Cover paper with small sticks, or pieces of pine wood, being sure that the wood reaches the ends of fire-box, and so arranged that it will admit air. Over pine wood arrange hard wood; then sprinkle with two shovelfuls of coal. Put on covers, open closed dampers, strike a match,—sufficient friction is formed to burn the phosphorus, this in turn lights the sulphur, and the sulphur the wood,—then apply the lighted match under the grate, and you have a fire.

Now blacken the stove. Begin at front of range, and 18work towards the back; as the iron heats, a good polish may be obtained. When the wood is thoroughly kindled, add more coal. A blue flame will soon appear, which is the gas (CO) in the coal burning to carbon dioxide (CO2), when the blue flame changes to a white flame; then the oven-damper should be closed. In a few moments the front damper may be nearly closed, leaving space to admit sufficient oxygen to feed the fire. It is sometimes forgotten that oxygen is necessary to keep a fire burning. As soon as the coal is well ignited, half close the chimney-damper, unless the draft be very poor.

Never allow the fire-box to be more than three-fourths filled. When full, the draft is checked, a larger amount of fuel is consumed, and much heat is lost. This is a point that should be impressed on the mind of the cook.

Ashes must be removed and sifted daily; pick over and save good coals,—which are known as cinders,—throwing out useless pieces, known as clinkers.

If a fire is used constantly during the day, replenish coal frequently, but in small quantities. If for any length of time the fire is not needed, open check, the dampers being closed; when again wanted for use, close check, open front damper, and with a poker rake out ashes from under fire, and wait for fire to burn brightly before adding new coal.

Coal when red hot has parted with most of its heat. Some refuse to believe this, and insist upon keeping dampers open until most of the heat has escaped into the chimney.

To keep a fire over night, remove the ashes from under the fire, put on enough coal to fill the box, close the dampers, and lift the back covers enough to admit air. This is better than lifting the covers over the fire-box and prevents poisonous gases entering the room.

### WAYS OF COOKING

The principal ways of cooking are boiling, broiling, stewing, roasting, baking, frying, sautéing, braising, and fricasseeing.

Boiling is cooking in boiling water. Solid food so cooked 19is called boiled food, though literally this expression is incorrect. Examples: boiled eggs, potatoes, mutton, etc.

Water boils at 212° F. (sea level), and simmers at 185° F. Slowly boiling water has the same temperature as rapidly boiling water, consequently is able to do the same work,—a fact often forgotten by the cook, who is too apt “to wood” the fire that water may boil vigorously.

Watery vapor and steam pass off from boiling water. Steam is invisible; watery vapor is visible, and is often miscalled steam. Cooking utensils commonly used admit the escape of watery vapor and steam; thereby much heat is lost if food is cooked in rapidly boiling water.

Water is boiled for two purposes: first, cooking of itself to destroy organic impurities; second, for cooking foods. Boiling water toughens and hardens albumen in eggs; toughens fibrin and dissolves tissues in meat; bursts starch-grains and softens cellulose in cereals and vegetables. Milk should never be allowed to boil. At boiling temperature (214° F.) the casein is slightly hardened, and the fat is rendered more difficult of digestion. Milk heated over boiling water, as in a double boiler, is called scalded milk, and reaches a temperature of 196° F. When foods are cooked over hot water the process is called steaming.

Stewing is cooking in a small amount of hot water for a long time at low temperature; it is the most economical way of cooking meats, as all nutriment is retained, and the ordinary way of cooking cheaper cuts. Thus fibre and connective tissues are softened, and the whole is made tender and palatable.

Broiling is cooking over or in front of a clear fire. The food to be cooked is usually placed in a greased broiler or on a gridiron held near the coals, turned often at first to sear the outside,—thus preventing escape of inner juices,—afterwards turned occasionally. Tender meats and fish may be cooked in this way. The flavor obtained by broiling is particularly fine; there is, however, a greater loss of weight in this than in any other way of cooking, as the food thus cooked is exposed to free circulation of air. When coal is not used, or a fire is not in condition for broiling, a plan for 20 pan broiling has been adopted. This is done by placing food to be cooked in a hissing hot frying-pan, turning often as in broiling.

Roasting is cooking before a clear fire, with a reflector to concentrate the heat. Heat is applied in the same way as for broiling, the difference being that the meat for roasting is placed on a spit and allowed to revolve, thicker pieces alway being employed. Tin-kitchens are now but seldom used. Meats cooked in a range oven, though really baked, are said to be roasted. Meats so cooked are pleasing to the sight and agreeable to the palate, although, according to Edward Atkinson, not so easily digested as when cooked at a lower temperature in the Aladdin oven.

Baking is cooking in a range oven.

Frying is cooking by means of immersion in deep fat raised to a temperature of 350° to 400° F. For frying purposes olive oil, lard, beef drippings, cottolene, coto suet, and cocoanut butter are used. A combination of two-thirds lard and one-third beef suet (tried out and clarified) is better than lard alone. Cottolene, coto suet, and cocoanut butter are economical, inasmuch as they may be heated to a high temperature without discoloring, therefore may be used for a larger number of fryings. Cod fat obtained from beef is often used by chefs for frying.

Great care should be taken in frying that fat is of the right temperature; otherwise food so cooked will absorb fat.

Nearly all foods which do not contain eggs are dipped in flour or crumbs, egg, and crumbs, before frying. The intense heat of fat hardens the albumen, thus forming a coating which prevents food from “soaking fat.”

When meat or fish is to be fried, it should be kept in a warm room for some time previous to cooking, and wiped as dry as possible. If cold, it decreases the temperature of the fat to such extent that a coating is not formed quickly enough to prevent fat from penetrating the food. The ebullition of fat is due to water found in food to be cooked.

Great care must be taken that too much is not put into 21the fat at one time, not only because it lowers the temperature of the fat, but because it causes it to bubble and go over the sides of the kettle. It is not fat that boils, but water which fat has received from food.

All fried food on removal from fat should be drained on brown paper.

Rules for Testing Fat for Frying. 1. When the fat begins to smoke, drop in an inch cube of bread from soft part of loaf, and if in forty seconds it is golden brown, the fat is then of right temperature for frying any cooked mixture.

2. Use same test for uncooked mixtures, allowing one minute for bread to brown.

Many kinds of food may be fried in the same fat; new fat should be used for batter and dough mixtures, potatoes, and fishballs; after these, fish, meat, and croquettes. Fat should be frequently clarified.

To Clarify Fat. Melt fat, add raw potato cut in quarter-inch slices, and allow fat to heat gradually; when fat ceases to bubble and potatoes are well browned, strain through double cheese-cloth, placed over wire strainer, into a pan. The potato absorbs any odors or gases, and collects to itself some of the sediment, remainder settling to bottom of kettle.

When small amount of fat is to be clarified, add to cold fat boiling water, stir vigorously, and set aside to cool; the fat will form a cake on top, which may be easily removed; on bottom of the cake will be found sediment, which may be readily scraped off with a knife.

Remnants of fat, either cooked or uncooked, should be saved and tried out, and when necessary clarified.

Fat from beef, poultry, chicken, and pork, may be used for shortening or frying purposes; fat from mutton and smoked meats may be used for making hard and soft soap; fat removed from soup stock, the water in which corned beef has been cooked, and drippings from roast beef, may be tried out, clarified, and used for shortening or frying purposes.

To Try out Fat. Cut in small pieces and melt in top of 22a double boiler; in this way it will require less watching than if placed in kettle on the back of range. Leaf lard is tried out in the same way; in cutting the leaf, remove membrane. After straining lard, that which remains may be salted, pressed, and eaten as a relish, and is called scraps.

Sautéing is frying in a small quantity of fat. Food so cooked is much more difficult of digestion than when fried in deep fat; it is impossible to cook in this way without the food absorbing fat. A frying-pan or griddle is used; the food is cooked on one side, then turned, and cooked on the other.

Braising is stewing and baking (meat). Meat to be braised is frequently first sautéd to prevent escape of much juice in the gravy. The meat is placed in a pan with a small quantity of stock or water, vegetables (carrot, turnip, celery, and onion) cut in pieces, salt, pepper, and sweet herbs. The pan should have a tight-fitting cover. Meat so prepared should be cooked in an oven at low uniform temperature for a long time. This is an economical way of cooking, and the only way besides stewing or boiling of making a large piece of tough meat palatable and digestible.

Fricasseeing is sautéing and serving with a sauce. Tender meat is fricasseed without previous cooking; less tender meat requires cooking in hot water before fricasseeing. Although veal is obtained from a young creature, it requires long cooking; it is usually sautéd, and then cooked in a sauce at low temperature for a long time.

### VARIOUS WAYS OF PREPARING FOOD FOR COOKING

Egging and Crumbing. Use for crumbing dried bread crumbs which have been rolled and sifted, or soft stale bread broken in pieces and forced through a colander. An ingenious machine on the market, “The Bread Crumber,” does this work. Egg used for crumbing should be broken into a shallow plate and beaten with a silver fork to blend yolk and white; dilute each egg with two tablespoons 23water. The crumbs should be taken on a board; food to be fried should be first rolled in crumbs (care being taken that all parts are covered with crumbs), then dipped in egg mixture (equal care being taken to cover all parts), then rolled in crumbs again; after the last crumbing remove food to a place on the board where there are no crumbs, and shake off some of the outer ones which make coating too thick. A broad-bladed knife with short handle—the Teller knife—is the most convenient utensil for lifting food to be crumbed from egg mixture. Small scallops, oysters, and crabs are more easily crumbed by putting crumbs and fish in paper and shaking paper until the fish is covered with crumbs. The object of first crumbing is to dry the surface that egg may cling to it; and where a thin coating is desired flour is often used in place of crumbs.

Larding is introducing small pieces of fat salt pork or bacon through the surface of uncooked meat. The flavor of lean and dry meat is much improved by larding; tenderloin of beef (fillet), grouse, partridge, pigeon, and liver are often prepared in this way. Pig pork being firm, is best for larding. Pork should be kept in a cold place that it may be well chilled. Remove rind and use the part of pork which lies between rind and vein. With sharp knife (which is sure to make a clean cut) remove slices a little less than one-fourth inch thick; cut the slices into strips a little less than one-fourth inch wide; these strips should be two and one-fourth inches long, and are called lardoons. Lardoons for small birds—quail, for example—should be cut smaller and not quite so long. To lard, insert one end of lardoon into larding-needle, hold needle firmly, and with pointed end take up a stitch one-third inch deep and three-fourths inch wide; draw needle through, care being taken that lardoon is left in meat and its ends project to equal lengths. Arrange lardoons in parallel rows, one inch apart, stitches in the alternate rows being directly underneath each other. Lard the upper surface of cuts of meat with the grain, never across it. In birds, insert lardoons at right angles to breastbone on either side. When large lardoons are forced through meat from surface to surface, the process is called 24daubing. Example: Beef à la mode. Thin slices of fat salt pork placed over meat may be substituted for larding, but flavor is not the same as when pork is drawn through flesh, and the dish is far less sightly.

Boning is removing bones from meat or fish, leaving the flesh nearly in its original shape. For boning, a small sharp knife with pointed blade is essential. Legs of mutton and veal and loins of beef may be ordered boned at market, no extra charge being made.

Whoever wishes to learn how to bone should first be taught boning of a small bird; when this is accomplished, larger birds, chickens, and turkeys may easily be done, the processes varying but little. In large birds tendons are drawn from legs, and the wings are left on and boned.

#### How to Bone a Bird

In buying birds for boning, select those which have been fresh killed, dry picked, and not drawn. Singe, remove pinfeathers, head, and feet, and cut off wings close to body. Lay bird on a board, breast down.

Begin at neck and with sharp knife cut through the skin the entire length of body. Scrape the flesh from backbone until end of one shoulder-blade is found; scrape flesh from shoulder-blade and continue around wing joint, cutting through tendinous portions which are encountered; then bone other side. Scrape skin from backbone the entire length of body, working across the ribs. Free wishbone and collar-bones, at same time removing crop and windpipe; continue down breastbone, particular care being taken not to break the skin as it lies very near bone, or to cut the delicate membranes which enclose entrails. Scrape flesh from second joints and drumsticks, laying it back and drawing off as a glove may be drawn from the hand. Withdraw carcass and put flesh back in its original shape. In large birds where wings are boned, scrape flesh to middle joint, where bone should be broken, leaving bone at tip end to assist in preserving shape.

25

#### How to Measure

Correct measurements are absolutely necessary to insure the best results. Good judgment, with experience, has taught some to measure by sight; but the majority need definite guides.

Tin, granite-ware, and glass measuring cups, divided in quarters or thirds, holding one half-pint, and tea and table spoons of regulation sizes,—which may be bought at any store where kitchen furnishings are sold,—and a case knife, are essentials for correct measurement. Mixing-spoons, which are little larger than tablespoons, should not be confounded with the latter.

Measuring Ingredients. Flour, meal, powdered and confectioners’ sugar, and soda should be sifted before measuring. Mustard and baking-powder, from standing in boxes, settle, therefore should be stirred to lighten; salt frequently lumps, and these lumps should be broken. A cupful is measured level. To measure a cupful, put in the ingredient by spoonfuls or from a scoop, round slightly, and level with a case knife, care being taken not to shake the cup. A tablespoonful is measured level. A teaspoonful is measured level.

To measure tea or table spoonfuls, dip the spoon in the ingredient, fill, lift, and level with a knife, the sharp edge of knife being toward tip of spoon. Divide with knife lengthwise of spoon, for a half-spoonful; divide halves crosswise for quarters, and quarters crosswise for eighths. Less than one-eighth of a teaspoonful is considered a few grains.

Measuring Liquids. A cupful of liquid is all the cup will hold.

A tea or table spoonful is all the spoon will hold.

Measuring Butter, Lard, etc. To measure butter, lard, and other solid fats, pack solidly into cup or spoon, and level with a knife.

When dry ingredients, liquids, and fats are called for in the same recipe, measure in the order given, thereby using but one cup.

26

#### How to Combine Ingredients

Next to measuring comes care in combining,—a fact not always recognized by the inexperienced. Three ways are considered,—stirring, beating, and cutting and folding.

To stir, mix by using circular motion, widening the circles until all is blended. Stirring is the motion ordinarily employed in all cookery, alone or in combination with beating.

To beat, turn ingredient or ingredients over and over, continually bringing the under part to the surface, thus allowing the utensil used for beating to be constantly brought in contact with bottom of the dish and throughout the mixture.

To cut and fold, introduce one ingredient into another ingredient or mixture by two motions: with a spoon, a repeated vertical downward motion, known as cutting; and a turning over and over of mixture, allowing bowl of spoon each time to come in contact with bottom of dish, is called folding. These repeated motions are alternated until thorough blending is accomplished.

By stirring, ingredients are mixed; by beating, a large amount of air is enclosed; by cutting and folding, air already introduced is prevented from escaping.

#### Ways of Preserving

1. By Freezing. Foods which spoil readily are frozen for transportation, and must be kept packed in ice until used. Examples: Fish and poultry.

2. By Refrigeration. Foods so preserved are kept in cold storage. The cooling is accomplished by means of ice, or by a machine where compressed gas is cooled and then permitted to expand. Examples: meat, milk, butter, eggs, etc.

3. By Canning. Which is preserving in air-tight glass jars, or tin cans hermetically sealed. When fruit is canned, sugar is usually added.

4. By Sugar. Examples: fruit juices and condensed milk.

5. By Exclusion of Air. Foods are preserved by exclusion 27of air in other ways than canning. Examples: grapes in bran, eggs in lime water, etc.

6. By Drying. Drying consists in evaporation of nearly all moisture, and is generally combined with salting, except in vegetables and fruits.

7. By Evaporation. There are examples where considerable moisture remains, though much is driven off. Example: beef extract.

8. By Salting. There are two kinds of salting,—dry, and corning or salting in brine. Examples: salt codfish, beef, pork, tripe, etc.

9. By Smoking. Some foods, after being salted, are hung in a closed room for several hours, where hickory wood is allowed to smother. Examples: ham, beef, and fish.

10. By Pickling. Vinegar, to which salt is added, and sometimes sugar and spices, is scalded; and cucumbers, onions, and various kinds of fruit are allowed to remain in it.

11. By Oil. Examples: sardines, anchovies, etc.

12. By Antiseptics. The least wholesome way is by the use of antiseptics. Borax and salicylic acid, when employed, should be used sparingly.

### TABLE OF MEASURES AND WEIGHTS

2 | cups butter (packed solidly) | = 1 pound
4 | cups flour (pastry) | = 1 pound
2 | cups granulated sugar | = 1 pound
2⅔ | cups powdered cups | = 1 pound
3½ | cups confectioners’ sugar | = 1 pound
2⅔ | cups brown sugar | = 1 pound
2⅔ | cups oatmeal | = 1 pound
4¾ | cups rolled oats | = 1 pound
2⅔ | cups granulated corn meal | = 1 pound
4⅓ | cups rye meal | = 1 pound
1⅞ | cups rice | = 1 pound
4½ | cups Graham flour | = 1 pound
3⅞ | cups entire wheat flour | = 1 pound
4⅓ | cups coffee | = 1 pound
2 | cups finely chopped meat | = 1 pound
289 | large eggs | = 1 pound
1 | square Baker’s chocolate | = 1 ounce
⅓ | cup almonds blanched and chopped | = 1 ounce
A few grains is less than one-eighth teaspoon. |
3 | teaspoons | = 1 tablespoon
16 | tablespoons | = 1 cup
2 | tablespoons butter | = 1 ounce
4 | tablespoons flour | = 1 ounce

### TIME TABLES FOR COOKING

Boiling
Articles | Time
--- | ---
| Hours | Minutes
Coffee |  | 1 to 3
Eggs, soft cooked |  | 6 to 8
Eggs, hard cooked |  | 35 to 45
Mutton, leg | 2 to 3 |
Ham, weight 12 to 14 lbs. | 4 to 5 |
Corned Beef or Tongue | 3 to 4 |
Turkey, weight 9 lbs. | 2 to 3 |
Fowl, weight 4 to 5 lbs. | 2 to 3 |
Chicken, weight 3 lbs. | 1 to 1¼ |
Lobster |  | 25 to 30
Cod and Haddock, weight 3 to 5 lbs. |  | 20 to 30
Halibut, thick piece, weight 2 to 3 lbs. |  | 30
Bluefish and Bass, weight 4 to 5 lbs. |  | 40 to 45
Salmon, weight 2 to 3 lbs. |  | 30 to 35
Small Fish |  | 6 to 10
Potatoes, white |  | 20 to 30
Potatoes, sweet |  | 15 to 25
Asparagus |  | 20 to 30
Peas |  | 20 to 60
String Beans | 1 to 2½ |
Lima and other Shell Beans | 1 to 1¼ |
Beets, young |  | 45
Beets, old | 3 to 4 |
Cabbage |  | 35 to 60
Oyster Plant |  | 45 to 60
Turnips |  | 30 to 45
Onions |  | 45 to 60
Parsnips |  | 30 to 45
Spinach |  | 25 to 30
Green Corn |  | 12 to 20
29Cauliflower |  | 20 to 25
Brussels Sprouts |  | 15 to 20
Tomatoes, stewed |  | 15 to 20
Rice |  | 20 to 25
Macaroni |  | 20 to 30
Broiling
Steak, one inch thick |  | 4 to 6
Steak, one and one-half inches thick |  | 8 to 10
Lamb or Mutton Chops |  | 6 to 8
Lamb or Mutton Chops in paper cases |  | 10
Quails or Squabs |  | 8
Quails or Squabs in paper cases |  | 10 to 12
Chickens |  | 20
Shad, Bluefish, and Whitefish |  | 15 to 20
Slices of Fish, Halibut, Salmon, and Swordfish |  | 12 to 15
Small, thin Fish |  | 5 to 8
Liver and Tripe |  | 4 to 5
Baking
Bread (white loaf) |  | 45 to 60
Bread (Graham loaf) |  | 35 to 45
Bread (sticks) |  | 10 to 15
Biscuits or Rolls (raised) |  | 12 to 20
Biscuits (baking-powder) |  | 12 to 15
Gems |  | 25 to 30
Muffins (raised) |  | 30
Muffins (baking-powder) |  | 20 to 25
Corn Cake (thin) |  | 15 to 20
Corn Cake (thick) |  | 30 to 35
Gingerbread |  | 20 to 30
Cookies |  | 6 to 10
Sponge Cake |  | 45 to 60
Cake (layer) |  | 20 to 30
Cake (loaf) |  | 40 to 60
Cake (pound) | 1¼ to 1½ |
Cake (fruit) | 1¼ to 2 |
Cake (wedding) | 3 |
or steam 2 hours and bake 1½ |  |
Baked batter puddings |  | 35 to 45
Bread puddings | 1 |
Tapioca or Rice Pudding | 1 |
30Rice Pudding (poor man’s) | 2 to 3 |
Indian Pudding | 2 to 3 |
Plum Pudding | 2 to 3 |
Custard Pudding |  | 30 to 45
Custard (baked in cups) |  | 20 to 25
Pies |  | 30 to 50
Tarts |  | 15 to 20
Patties |  | 20 to 25
Vol-au-vent |  | 50 to 60
Cheese Straws |  | 8 to 10
Scalloped Oysters |  | 25 to 30
Scalloped dishes of cooked mixtures |  | 12 to 15
Baked Beans | 6 to 8 |
Braised Beef | 3½ to 4½ |
Beef, sirloin or rib, rare, weight 5 lbs. | 1 | 5
Beef, sirloin or rib, rare, weight 10 lbs. | 1 | 30
Beef, sirloin or rib, well done, weight 5 lbs. | 1 | 20
Beef, sirloin or rib, well done, weight 10 lbs. | 1 | 50
Beef, rump, rare, weight 10 lbs. | 1 | 35
Beef, rump, well done, weight 10 lbs. | 1 | 55
Beef, (fillet) |  | 20 to 30
Mutton (saddle) | 1¼ to 1½ |
Lamb (leg) | 1¼ to 1¾ |
Lamb (fore-quarter) | 1 to 1¼ |
Lamb (chops) in paper cases |  | 15 to 20
Veal (leg) | 3½ to 4 |
Veal (loin) | 2 to 3 |
Pork (chine or sparerib) | 3 to 3½ |
Chicken, weight 3 to 4 lbs. | 1 to 1½ |
Turkey, weight 9 lbs. | 2½ to 3 |
Goose, weight 9 lbs. | 2 |
Duck (domestic) | 1 to 1¼ |
Duck (wild) |  | 20 to 30
Grouse |  | 25 to 30
Partridge |  | 45 to 50
Pigeons (potted) | 2 |
Fish (thick), weight 3 to 4 lbs. |  | 45 to 60
Fish (small) |  | 20 to 30
Frying
Muffins, Fritters, and Doughnuts |  | 3 to 5
Croquettes and Fishballs |  | 1
31Potatoes, raw |  | 4 to 8
Breaded Chops |  | 5 to 8
Fillets of Fish |  | 4 to 6
Smelts, Trout, and other small Fish |  | 3 to 5

Note.—Length of time for cooking fish and meat does not depend so much on the number of pounds to be cooked as the extent of surface exposed to the heat.

32

## CHAPTER III
BEVERAGES

A beverage is any drink. Water is the beverage provided for man by Nature. Water is an essential to life. All beverages contain a large percentage of water, therefore their uses should be considered:—

I.
  To quench thirst.
II.
  To introduce water into the circulatory system.
III.
  To regulate body temperature.
IV.
  To assist in carrying off waste.
V.
  To nourish.
VI.
  To stimulate the nervous system and various organs.
VII.
  For medicinal purposes.

Freshly boiled water should be used for making hot beverages; freshly drawn water for making cold beverages.

### TEA

Tea is used by more than one-half the human race; and, although the United States is not a tea-drinking country, one and one-half pounds are consumed per capita per annum.

All tea is grown from one species of shrub, Thea, the leaves of which constitute the tea of commerce. Climate, elevation, soil, cultivation, and care in picking and curing all go to make up the differences. First-quality tea is made from young, whole leaves. Two kinds of tea are considered:—

Black tea, made from leaves which have been allowed to ferment before curing.

Green tea, made from unfermented leaves artificially colored.

33The best black tea comes from India and Ceylon. Some familiar brands are Oolong, Formosa, English Breakfast, Orange Pekoe, and Flowery Pekoe. The last two named, often employed at the “five o’clock tea,” command high prices; they are made from the youngest leaves. Orange Pekoe is scented with orange leaves. The best green tea comes from Japan. Some familiar brands are Hyson, Japan, and Gunpowder.

From analysis, it has been found that tea is rich in proteid, but taken as an infusion acts as a stimulant rather than as a nutrient. The nutriment is gained from sugar and milk served with it. The stimulating property of tea is due to the alkaloid, theine, together with an essential oil; it contains an astringent, tannin. Black tea contains less theine, essential oil, and tannin than green tea. The tannic acid, developed from the tannin by infusion, injures the coating of the stomach.

Although tea is not a substitute for food, it appears so for a considerable period of time, as its stimulating effect is immediate. It is certain that less food is required where much tea is taken, for by its use there is less wear of the tissues, consequently need of repair. When taken to excess, it so acts on the nervous system as to produce sleeplessness or insomnia, and finally makes a complete wreck of its victim. Taken in moderation, it acts as a mild stimulant, and ingests a considerable amount of water into the system; it heats the body in winter, and cools the body in summer. Children should never be allowed to drink tea, and it had better be avoided by the young, while it may be indulged in by the aged, as it proves a valuable stimulant as the functional activities of the stomach become weakened.

Freshly boiled water should be used for making tea. Boiled, because below the boiling-point the stimulating property, theine, would not be extracted. Freshly boiled, because long cooking renders it flat and insipid to taste on account of escape of its atmospheric gases. Tea should always be infused, never boiled. Long steeping destroys the delicate flavor by developing a larger amount of tannic acid.

34

#### How to Make Tea

3 teaspoons tea
2 cups boiling water

Scald an earthen or china teapot.

Put in tea, and pour on boiling water. Let stand on back of range or in a warm place five minutes. Strain and serve immediately, with or without sugar and milk. Avoid second steeping of leaves with addition of a few fresh ones. If this is done, so large an amount of tannin is extracted that various ills are apt to follow.

#### Five o’Clock Tea

When tea is made in dining or drawing-room, a “Five o’Clock Tea-kettle” (Samovar), and tea-ball or teapot are used.

#### Russian Tea

Follow recipe for making tea. Russian Tea may be served hot or cold, but always without milk. A thin slice of lemon, from which seeds have been removed, or a few drops of lemon juice, is allowed for each cup. Sugar is added according to taste. In Russia a preserved strawberry to each cup is considered an improvement. We imitate our Russian friends by garnishing with a candied cherry.

#### De John’s Tea

Follow recipe for making tea and serve hot, allowing three whole cloves to each cup. Sugar is added according to taste.

#### Iced Tea

4 teaspoons tea
2 cups boiling water

Follow recipe for making tea. Strain into glasses one-third full of cracked ice. Sweeten to taste, and allow one slice lemon to each glass tea. The flavor is much finer by chilling the infusion quickly.

#### Wellesley Tea

Make same as Iced Tea, having three crushed mint leaves in each glass into which the hot infusion is strained.

Five o’Clock Tea Service.—Page 34.

Chocolate Service.—Page 41.

Coffee Percolators and Pot.—Page 38.

After-Dinner Coffee Service.—Page 38.

35

### COFFEE

The coffee-tree is native to Abyssinia, but is now grown in all tropical countries. It belongs to the genus Coffea, of which there are about twenty-two species. The seeds of berries of coffee-trees constitute the coffee of commerce. Each berry contains two seeds, with exception of maleberry, which is a single round seed. In their natural state they are almost tasteless; therefore color, shape, and size determine value. Formerly, coffee was cured by exposure to the sun; but on account of warm climate and sudden rainfalls, coffee was often injured. By the new method coffee is washed, and then dried by steam heat.

In coffee plantations, trees are planted in parallel rows, from six to eight feet apart, and are pruned so as never to exceed six feet in height. Banana-trees are often grown in coffee plantations, advantage being taken of their outspreading leaves, which protect coffee-trees from direct rays of the sun. Brazil produces about two-thirds the coffee used. Central America, Java, and Arabia are also coffee centres.

Tea comes to us ready for use; coffee needs roasting. In process of roasting the seeds increase in size, but lose fifteen per cent in weight. Roasting is necessary to develop the delightful aroma and flavor. Java coffee is considered finest. Mocha commands a higher price, owing to certain acidity and sparkle, which alone is not desirable; but when combined with Java, in proportion of two parts Java to one part Mocha, the coffee best suited to average taste is made. Some people prefer Maleberry Java; so especial care is taken to have maleberries separated, that they may be sold for higher price. Old Government Java has deservedly gained a good reputation, as it is carefully inspected, and its sale controlled by Dutch government. Strange as it may seem to the consumer, all coffee sold as Java does not come from the island of Java. Any coffee, wherever grown, having same characteristics and flavor, is sold as Java. The same is true of other kinds of coffee.

The stimulating property of coffee is due to the alkaloid caffeine, together with an essential oil. Like tea, it contains 36an astringent. Coffee is more stimulating than tea, although, weight for weight, tea contains about twice as much theine as coffee contains caffeine. The smaller proportion of tea used accounts for the difference. A cup of coffee with breakfast, and a cup of tea with supper, serve as a mild stimulant for an adult, and form a valuable food adjunct, but should never be found in the dietary of a child or dyspeptic. Coffee taken in moderation quickens action of the heart, acts directly upon the nervous system, and assists gastric digestion. Fatigue of body and mind are much lessened by moderate use of coffee; severe exposure to cold can be better endured by the coffee drinker. In times of war, coffee has proved more valuable than alcoholic stimulants to keep up the enduring power of soldiers. Coffee acts as an antidote for opium and alcoholic poisoning. Tea and coffee are much more readily absorbed when taken on an empty stomach; therefore this should be avoided except when used for medicinal purposes. Coffee must be taken in moderation; its excessive use means palpitation of the heart, tremor, insomnia, and nervous prostration.

Coffee is often adulterated with chiccory, beans, peas, and various cereals, which are colored, roasted, and ground. By many, a small amount of chiccory is considered an improvement, owing to the bitter principle and volatile oil which it contains. Chiccory is void of caffeine. The addition of chiccory may be detected by adding cold water to supposed coffee; if chiccory is present, the liquid will be quickly discolored, and chiccory will sink; pure coffee will float.

Buying of Coffee. Coffee should be bought for family use in small quantities, freshly roasted and ground; or, if one has a coffee-mill, it may be ground at home as needed. After being ground, unless kept air tight, it quickly deteriorates. If not bought in air-tight cans, with tight-fitting cover, or glass jar, it should be emptied into canister as soon as brought from grocer’s.

Coffee may be served as filtered coffee, infusion of coffee, or decoction of coffee. Commonly speaking, boiled coffee is 37preferred, and is more economical for the consumer. Coffee is ground fine, coarse, and medium; and the grinding depends on the way in which it is to be made. For filtered coffee have it finely ground; for boiled, coarse or medium.

#### Filtered Coffee

(French or Percolated)
1 cup coffee (finely ground)
6 cups boiling water

Various kinds of coffee pots are on the market for making filtered coffee. They all contain a strainer to hold coffee without allowing grounds to mix with infusion. Some have additional vessel to hold boiling water, upon which coffee-pot may rest.

Place coffee in strainer, strainer in coffee-pot, and pot on the range. Add gradually boiling water, and allow it to filter. Cover between additions of water. If desired stronger, re-filter. Serve at once with cut sugar and cream.

Put sugar and cream in cup before hot coffee. There will be perceptible difference if cream is added last. If cream is not obtainable, scalded milk may be substituted, or part milk and part cream may be used, if a diluted cup of coffee is desired.

#### Boiled Coffee

1 cup coffee
1 egg
1 cup cold water
6 cups boiling water

Scald granite-ware coffee-pot. Wash egg, break, and beat slightly. Dilute with one-half the cold water, add crushed shell, and mix with coffee. Turn into coffee-pot, pour on boiling water, and stir thoroughly. Place on front of range, and boil three minutes. If not boiled, coffee is cloudy; if boiled too long, too much tannic acid is developed. The spout of pot should be covered or stuffed with soft paper to prevent escape of fragrant aroma. Stir and pour some in a cup to be sure that spout is free from grounds. Return to coffee-pot and repeat. Add remaining cold water, which perfects clearing. Cold water being heavier than hot water sinks to the bottom, carrying grounds with it. Place on 38back of range for ten minutes, where coffee will not boil. Serve at once. If any is left over, drain from grounds, and reserve for making of jelly or other dessert.

Egg-shells may be saved and used for clearing coffee. Three egg-shells are sufficient to effect clearing where one cup of ground coffee is used. The shell performs no office in clearing except for the albumen which clings to it. Burnett’s Crystal Coffee Settler, or salt fish-skin, washed, dried, and cut in inch pieces, is used for same purpose.

Coffee made with an egg has a rich flavor which egg alone can give. Where strict economy is necessary, if great care is taken, egg may be omitted. Coffee so made should be served from range, as much motion causes it to become roiled.

Tin is an undesirable material for a coffee-pot, as tannic acid acts on such metal and is apt to form a poisonous compound.

When coffee and scalded milk are served in equal proportions, it is called Café au lait. Coffee served with whipped cream is called Vienna Coffee.

To Make a Small Pot of Coffee. Mix one cup ground coffee with one egg, slightly beaten, and crushed shell. To one-third of this amount add one-third cup cold water. Turn into a scalded coffee-pot, add one pint boiling water, and boil three minutes. Let stand on back of range ten minutes; serve. Keep remaining coffee and egg closely covered, in a cool place, to use two successive mornings.

To Make Coffee for One. Allow two tablespoons ground coffee to one cup cold water. Add coffee to cold water, cover closely, and let stand over night. In the morning bring to a boiling-point. If carefully poured, a clear cup of coffee may be served.

#### After-Dinner Coffee

(Black Coffee, or Café Noir)

For after-dinner coffee use twice the quantity of coffee, or half the amount of liquid, given in previous recipes. Filtered coffee is often preferred where milk or cream is not 39used, as is always the case with black coffee. Serve in after-dinner coffee cups, with or without cut sugar.

Coffee retards gastric digestion; but where the stomach has been overtaxed by a hearty meal, café noir may prove beneficial, so great are its stimulating effects.

### KOLA

The preparations on the market made from the kola-nut have much the same effect upon the system as coffee and chocolate, inasmuch as they contain caffeine and theobromine; they are also valuable for their diastase and a milk-digesting ferment.

### COCOA AND CHOCOLATE

The cacao-tree (Theobroma cacao) is native to Mexico. Although successfully cultivated between the twentieth parallels of latitude, its industry is chiefly confined to Mexico, South America, and the West Indies. Cocoa and chocolate are both prepared from seeds of the cocoa bean. The bean pod is from seven to ten inches long, and three to four and one-half inches in diameter. Each pod contains from twenty to forty seeds, imbedded in mucilaginous material. Cocoa beans are dried previous to importation. Like coffee, they need roasting to develop flavor. After roasting, outer covering of bean is removed; this covering makes what is known as cocoa shells, which have little nutritive value. The beans are broken and sold as cocoa nibs.

The various preparations of cocoa on the market are made from the ground cocoa nibs, from which, by means of hydraulic pressure, a large amount of fat is expressed, leaving a solid cake. This in turn is pulverized and mixed with sugar, and frequently a small amount of corn-starch or arrowroot. To some preparations cinnamon or vanilla is added. Broma contains both arrowroot and cinnamon.

Chocolate is made from cocoa nibs, but contains a much larger proportion of fat than cocoa preparations. Bitter, sweet, or flavored chocolate is always sold in cakes.

40The fat obtained from cocoa bean is cocoa butter, which gives cocoa its principal nutrient.

Cocoa and chocolate differ from tea and coffee inasmuch as they contain nutriment as well as stimulant. Theobromine, the active principle, is almost identical with theine and caffeine in its composition and effects.

Many people who abstain from the use of tea and coffee find cocoa indispensable. Not only is it valuable for its own nutriment, but for the large amount of milk added to it. Cocoa may be well placed in the dietary of a child after his third year, while chocolate should be avoided as a beverage, but may be given as a confection. Invalids and those of weak digestion can take cocoa where chocolate would prove too rich.

#### Cocoa Shells

1 cup cocoa shells
6 cups boiling water

Boil shells and water three hours; as water boils away it will be necessary to add more. Strain, and serve with milk and sugar. By adding one-third cup cocoa nibs, a much more satisfactory drink is obtained.

#### Cracked Cocoa

½ cup cracked cocoa
3 pints boiling water

Boil cracked cocoa and water two hours. Strain, and serve with milk and sugar. If cocoa is pounded in a mortar and soaked over night in three pints water, it will require but one hour’s boiling.

#### Breakfast Cocoa

1½ tablespoons prepared cocoa
2 tablespoons sugar
2 cups boiling water
2 cups milk
Few grains salt

Scald milk. Mix cocoa, sugar, and salt, dilute with one-half cup boiling water to make smooth paste, add remaining water, and boil one minute; turn into scalded milk and beat two minutes, using Dover egg-beater, when froth will form, preventing scum, which is so unsightly; this is known as milling.

41

#### Reception Cocoa

3 tablespoons cocoa
¼ cup sugar
A few grains salt
4 cups milk
¾ cup boiling water

Scald milk. Mix cocoa, sugar, and salt, adding enough boiling water to make a smooth paste; add remaining water and boil one minute; pour into scalded milk. Beat two minutes, using Dover egg-beater.

#### Brandy Cocoa

3 tablespoons cocoa
¼ cup sugar
1½ cups boiling water
4 cups milk
3 teaspoons cooking brandy

Prepare as Reception Cocoa, and add brandy before milling.

#### Chocolate I

1½ squares Baker’s chocolate
¼ cup sugar
Few grains salt
1 cup boiling water
3 cups milk

Scald milk. Melt chocolate in small saucepan placed over hot water, add sugar, salt, and gradually boiling water; when smooth, place on range and boil one minute; add to scalded milk, mill, and serve in chocolate cups with whipped cream. One and one-half ounces vanilla chocolate may be substitute for Baker’s chocolate; being sweetened, less sugar is required.

#### Chocolate II

Prepare same as Chocolate I., substituting one can evaporated cream or condensed milk diluted with two cups boiling water in place of three cups milk. If sweetened condensed milk is used, omit sugar.

#### Chocolate III

2 ozs. sweetened chocolate
4 cups milk
Few grains salt
Whipped cream

Scald milk, add chocolate, and stir until chocolate is melted. Bring to boiling-point, mill, and serve in chocolate cups with whipped cream sweetened and flavored.

42

### FRUIT BEVERAGES

#### Lemonade

1 cup sugar
⅓ cup lemon juice
1 pint water

Make syrup by boiling sugar and water twelve minutes; add fruit juice, cool, and dilute with ice-water to suit individual tastes. Lemon syrup may be bottled and kept on hand to use as needed.

#### Pineapple Lemonade

1 pint water
1 quart ice-water
1 cup sugar
1 can grated pineapple
Juice 3 lemons

Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes; add pineapple and lemon juice, cool, strain, and add ice-water.

#### Orangeade

Make syrup as for Lemonade. Sweeten orange juice with syrup, and dilute by pouring over crushed ice.

#### Mint Julep

1 quart water
2 cups sugar
1 pint claret wine
1 cup strawberry juice
1 cup orange juice
Juice 8 lemons
1½ cups boiling water
12 sprigs fresh mint

Make syrup by boiling quart of water and sugar twenty minutes. Separate mint in pieces, add to the boiling water, cover, and let stand in warm place five minutes, strain, and add to syrup; add fruit juices, and cool. Pour into punch-bowl, add claret, and chill with a large piece of ice; dilute with water. Garnish with fresh mint leaves and whole strawberries.

#### Claret Punch

1 quart cold water
½ cup raisins
2 cups sugar
2 inch piece stick cinnamon
Few shavings lemon rind
1⅓ cups orange juice
⅓ cup lemon juice
1 pint claret wine

Put raisins in cold water, bring slowly to boiling-point, and boil twenty minutes; strain, add sugar, cinnamon, 43lemon rind, and boil five minutes. Add fruit juice, cool, strain, pour in claret, and dilute with ice-water.

#### Fruit Punch I

1 quart cold water
2 cups sugar
½ cup lemon juice
2 cups chopped pineapple
1 cup orange juice

Boil water, sugar, and pineapple twenty minutes; add fruit juice, cool, strain, and dilute with ice-water.

#### Fruit Punch II

1 cup water
2 cups sugar
1 cup tea infusion
1 quart Apollinaris
2 cups strawberry syrup
Juice 5 lemons
Juice 5 oranges
1 can grated pineapple
1 cup Maraschino cherries

Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes; add tea, strawberry syrup, lemon juice, orange juice, and pineapple; let stand thirty minutes, strain, and add ice-water to make one and one-half gallons of liquid. Add cherries and Apollinaris. Serve in punch-bowl, with large piece of ice. This quantity will serve fifty.

#### Fruit Punch III

1 cup sugar
1 cup hot tea infusion
¾ cup orange juice
⅓ cup lemon juice
1 pint ginger ale
1 pint Apollinaris
Few slices orange

Pour tea over sugar, and as soon as sugar is dissolved add fruit juices. Strain into punch-bowl over a large piece of ice, and just before serving add ale, Apollinaris, and slices of orange.

#### Fruit Punch IV

9 oranges 6 lemons 1 cup grated pineapple 1 cup raspberry syrup 1½ cups tea infusion 1¼ cups sugar 1 cup hot water 1 quart Apollinaris

Mix juice of oranges and lemons with pineapple, raspberry syrup, and tea; then add a syrup made by boiling sugar and 44water fifteen minutes. Turn in punch-bowl over a large piece of ice. Chill thoroughly, and just before serving add Apollinaris.

#### Ginger Punch

1 quart cold water
1 cup sugar
½ lb. Canton ginger
½ cup orange juice
½ cup lemon juice

Chop ginger, add to water and sugar, boil fifteen minutes; add fruit juice, cool, strain, and dilute with crushed ice.

#### Champagne Punch

1 cup water
2 cups sugar
1 quart California champagne
4 tablespoons brandy
2 tablespoons Medford rum
2 tablespoons Orange Curaçoa
Juice 2 lemons
2 cups tea infusion
Ice
1 quart soda water

Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes. Mix champagne, brandy, rum, Curaçoa, lemon juice, and tea infusion. Sweeten to taste with syrup and pour into punch-bowl over a large piece of ice. Just before serving add soda water.

#### Club Punch

1 cup water
2 cups sugar
1 quart Burgundy
1 cup rum
⅓ cup brandy
⅓ cup Benedictine
1 quart Vichy
3 sliced oranges
½ can pineapple
Juice 2 lemons
1 cup tea infusion
Ice.

Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes. Mix remaining ingredients, except ice, sweeten to taste with syrup, and pour into punch-bowl over a large piece of ice.

#### Unfermented Grape Juice

10 lbs. grapes
1 cup water
3 lbs. sugar

Put grapes and water in granite stewpan. Heat until stones and pulp separate; then strain through jelly bag, add sugar, heat to boiling-point, and bottle. This will make one gallon. When served, it should be diluted one-half with water.

Punch Service.—Page 43.

Claret Cup Service.—Page 45.

Double Loaves of Milk and Water Bread.—Page 54.

Boston Brown Bread.—Page 57.

45

#### Claret Cup

1 quart claret wine
½ cup Curaçoa
1 quart Apollinaris
⅓ cup orange juice
2 tablespoons brandy
Sugar
Mint leaves
Cucumber rind
12 strawberries

Mix ingredients, except Apollinaris, using enough sugar to sweeten to taste. Stand on ice to chill, and add chilled Apollinaris just before serving.

#### Sauterne Cup

1 quart soda water
2 cups Sauterne wine
Rind ½ orange
Rind ½ lemon
2 tablespoons Orange Curaçoa
½ cup sugar (scant)
Mint leaves
Few slices orange
12 strawberries

Add Curaçoa to rind of fruit and sugar; cover, and let stand two hours. Add Sauterne, strain, and stand on ice to chill. Add chilled soda water, mint leaves, slices of orange, and strawberries. The success of cups depends upon the addition of charged water just before serving.

46

## CHAPTER IV
BREAD AND BREAD MAKING

Bread is the most important article of food, and history tells of its use thousands of years before the Christian era. Many processes have been employed in making and baking; and as a result, from the first flat cake has come the perfect loaf. The study of bread making is of no slight importance, and deserves more attention than it receives.

Considering its great value, it seems unnecessary and wrong to find poor bread on the table; and would that our standard might be raised as high as that of our friends across the water! Who does not appreciate the loaf produced by the French baker, who has worked months to learn the art of bread making?

Bread is made from flour of wheat, or other cereals, by addition of water, salt, and a ferment. Wheat flour is best adapted for bread making, as it contains gluten in the right proportion to make the spongy loaf. But for its slight deficiency in fat, wheat bread is a perfect food; hence arose the custom of spreading it with butter. It should be remembered, in speaking of wheat bread as perfect food, that it must be made of flour rich in gluten. Next to wheat flour ranks rye in importance for bread making; but it is best used in combination with wheat, for alone it makes heavy, sticky, moist bread. Corn also needs to be used in combination with wheat for bread making, for if used alone the bread will be crumbly.

The miller, in order to produce flour which will make the white loaf (so sightly to many), in the process of grinding wheat has been forced to remove the inner bran coats, so rich in mineral matter, and much of the gluten intimately connected with them.

47To understand better the details of bread making, wheat, from which bread is principally made, should be considered.

A grain of wheat consists of (1) an outer covering or husk, which is always removed before milling; (2) bran coats, which contain mineral matter; (3) gluten, the proteid matter and fat; and (4) starch, the centre and largest part of the grain. Wheat is distinguished as white and soft, or red and hard. The former is known as winter wheat, having been sown in the fall, and living through the winter; the latter is known as spring wheat, having been sown in the spring. From winter wheat, pastry flour, sometimes called St. Louis, is made; from spring wheat, bread flour, also called Haxall. St. Louis flour takes its name from the old process of grinding; Haxall, from the name of the inventor of the new process. All flours are now milled by the same process. For difference in composition of wheat flours, consult table in Chapter VI on Cereals.

Wheat is milled for converting into flour by processes producing essentially the same results, all requiring cleansing, grinding, and bolting. Entire wheat flour has only the outer husk removed, the remainder of the kernel being finely ground. Graham flour, confounded with entire wheat, is too often found to be an inferior flour, mixed with coarse bran.

Grinding is accomplished by one of four systems: (1) low milling; (2) Hungarian system, or high milling; (3) roller-milling; and (4) by a machine known as disintegrator.

In low milling process, grooved stones are employed for grinding. The stones are enclosed in a metal case, and provision is made within case for passage of air to prevent wheat from becoming overheated. The lower stone being permanently fixed, the upper stone being so balanced above it that grooves may exactly correspond, when upper stone rotates, sharp edges of grooves meet each other, and operate like a pair of scissors. By this process flour is made ready for bolting by one grinding.

In high milling process, grooved stones are employed, but are kept so far apart that at first the wheat is only bruised, and a series of grindings and siftings is necessary. This 48process is applicable only to the hardest wheats, and is partially supplanted by roller-milling.

In roller-milling, wheat is subjected to action of a pair of steel or chilled-iron horizontal rollers, having toothed surfaces. They revolve in opposite directions, at different rates of speed, and have a cutting action.

Porcelain rollers, with rough surfaces, are sometimes employed. In this system, grinding is accomplished by cutting rather than crushing.

“The disintegrator consists of a pair of circular metal disks, set face to face, studded with circles of projecting bars so arranged that circles of bars on one disk alternate with those of the other. The disks are mounted on the same centre, and so closely set to one another that projecting bars of one disk come quite close to plane surface of the other. They are enclosed within an external casing. The disks are caused to rotate in opposite directions with great rapidity, and the grain is almost instantaneously reduced to a powder.”

After grinding comes bolting, by which process the different grades of flour are obtained. The ground wheat is placed in octagonal cylinders (covered with silk or linen bolting-cloth of different degrees of fineness), which are allowed to rotate, thus forcing the wheat through. The flour from first siftings contains the largest percentage of gluten.

Flour is branded under different names to suit manufacturer or dealer. In consequence, the same wheat, milled by the same process, makes flour which is sold under different names.

In buying flour, whether bread or pastry, select the best kept by your grocer. Some of the well-known brands of bread flour are King Arthur, Swan’s Down, Bridal Veil, Columbia, Washburn’s Extra, and Pillbury’s Best; of pastry, Best St. Louis. Bread flour should be used in all cases where yeast is called for, with few exceptions; in other cases, pastry flour. The difference between bread and pastry flour may be readily determined. Take bread flour in the hand, close hand tightly, then open, and flour will not 49keep in shape; if allowed to pass through fingers it will feel slightly granular. Take pastry flour in the hand, close hand tightly, open, and flour will be in shape, having impression of the lines of the hand, and feeling soft and velvety to touch. Flour should always be sifted before measuring.

Entire wheat flour differs from ordinary flour inasmuch as it contains all the gluten found in wheat, the outer husk of kernels only being removed, the remainder ground to different degrees of fineness and left unbolted. Such flours are sold by the different health food companies, who have agencies in the large cities. Franklin Mills, Old Grist Mill, and Health Food flours are included in this class.

Gluten, the proteid of wheat, is a gray, tough, elastic substance, insoluble in water. On account of its great power of expansion, it holds the gas developed in bread dough by fermentation, which otherwise would escape.

### Yeast

Yeast is a microscopic plant of fungous growth, and is the lowest form of vegetable life. It consists of spores, or germs, found floating in air, and belongs to a family of which there are many species. These spores grow by budding and division, and multiply very rapidly under favorable conditions, and produce fermentation.

Fermentation is the process by which, under influence of air, warmth, moisture, and some ferment, sugar (or dextrose, starch converted into sugar) is changed into alcohol (C2H5HO) and carbon dioxide (CO2). The product of all fermentation is the same. Three kinds are considered,—alcoholic, acetic, and lactic. Where bread dough is allowed to ferment by addition of yeast, the fermentation is alcoholic; where alcoholic fermentation continues too long, acetic fermentation sets in, which is a continuation of alcoholic. Lactic fermentation is fermentation which takes place when milk sours.

Liquid, dry, or compressed yeast may be used for raising bread. The compressed yeast cakes done up in tinfoil have long proved satisfactory, and are now almost universally used, having replaced the home-made liquid yeast. 50Never use a yeast cake unless perfectly fresh, which may be determined by its light color and absence of dark streaks.

The yeast plant is killed at 212° F.; life is suspended, but not entirely destroyed, 32° F. The temperature best suited for its growth is from 65° to 68° F. The most favorable conditions for the growth of yeast are a warm, moist, sweet, nitrogenous soil. These must be especially considered in bread making.

### Bread Making

Fermented bread is made by mixing to a dough, flour, with a definite quantity of water, milk, or water and milk, salt, and a ferment. Sugar is usually added to hasten fermentation. Dough is then kneaded that the ingredients may be thoroughly incorporated, covered, and allowed to rise in a temperature of 68° F., until dough has doubled its bulk. This change has been caused by action of the ferment, which attacks some of the starch in flour, and changes it to sugar, and sugar in turn to alcohol and carbon dioxide, thus lightening the whole mass. Dough is then kneaded a second time to break bubbles and distribute evenly the carbon dioxide. It is shaped in loaves, put in greased bread pans (they being half filled), covered, allowed to rise in temperature same as for first rising, to double its bulk. If risen too long, it will be full of large holes; if not risen long enough, it will be heavy and soggy. If pans containing loaves are put in too hot a place while rising, a heavy streak will be found near bottom of loaf.

How to Shape Loaves and Biscuits. To shape bread dough in loaves, divide dough in parts, each part large enough for a loaf, knead until smooth, and if possible avoid seams in under part of loaf. If baked in brick pan, place two loaves in one pan, brushed between with a little melted butter. If baked in long shallow pan, when well kneaded, roll with both hands to lengthen, care being taken that it is smooth and of uniform thickness. Where long loaves are baked on sheets, shape and roll loosely in a towel sprinkled with corn meal for last rising.

51To shape bread dough in biscuits, pull or cut off as many small pieces (having them of uniform size) as there are to be biscuits. Flour palms of hands slightly; take up each piece and shape separately, lifting, with thumb and first two fingers of right hand, and placing in palm of left hand, constantly moving dough round and round, while folding towards the centre; when smooth, turn it over and roll between palms of hands. Place in greased pans near together, brushed between with a little melted butter, which will cause biscuits to separate easily after baking. For finger rolls, shape biscuits and roll with one hand on part of board where there is no flour, until of desired length, care being taken to make smooth, of uniform size, and round at ends.

Biscuits may be shaped in a great variety of ways, but they should always be small. Large biscuits, though equally good, never tempt one by their daintiness.

Bread is often brushed over with milk before baking, to make a darker crust.

Where bread is allowed to rise over night, a small piece of yeast cake must be used; one-fourth yeast cake to one pint liquid is sufficient, one-third yeast cake to one quart liquid. Bread mixed and baked during the day requires a larger quantity of yeast; one yeast cake, or sometimes even more, to one pint of liquid. Bread dough mixed with a large quantity of yeast should be watched during rising, and cut down as soon as mixture doubles its bulk. If proper care is taken, the bread will be found most satisfactory, having neither “yeasty” nor sour taste.

Fermented bread was formerly raised by means of leaven.

### Baking of Bread

Bread is baked: (1) To kill ferment, (2) to make soluble the starch, (3) to drive off alcohol and carbon dioxide, and (4) to form brown crust of pleasant flavor. Bread should be baked in a hot oven. If the oven be too hot the crust will brown quickly before the heat has reached the centre, and prevent further rising; loaf should continue rising for first fifteen minutes of baking, when it should begin to brown, 52and continue browning for the next twenty minutes. The last fifteen minutes it should finish baking, when the heat may be reduced. When bread is done, it will not cling to sides of pan, and may be easily removed. Biscuits require more heat than loaf bread, should continue rising the first five minutes, and begin to brown in eight minutes. Experience is the best guide for testing temperature of oven. Various oven thermometers have been made, but none have proved practical. Bread may be brushed over with melted butter, three minutes before removal from oven, if a more tender crust is desired.

### Care of Bread after Baking

Remove loaves at once from pans, and place side down on a wire bread or cake cooler. If a crisp crust is desired, allow bread to cool without covering; if soft crust, cover with a towel during cooling. When cool, put in tin box or stone jar, and cover closely.

Never keep bread wrapped in cloth, as the cloth will absorb moisture and transmit an unpleasant taste to bread. Bread tins or jars should be washed and scalded twice a week in winter, and every other day in summer; otherwise bread is apt to mould. As there are so many ways of using small and stale pieces of bread, care should be taken that none is wasted.

Unfermented bread is raised without a ferment, the carbon dioxide being produced by the use of soda (alkaline salt) and an acid. Soda, employed in combination with cream of tartar, for raising mixtures, in proportion of one-third soda to two-thirds cream of tartar, was formerly used to a great extent, but has been generally superseded by baking powder.

Soda bicarbonate (NaHCO3) is manufactured from sodium chloride (NaCl), common salt or cryolite.

Baking powder is composed of soda and cream of tartar in definite, correct proportions, mixed with small quantity of dry material (flour or corn-starch) to keep action from taking place. If found to contain alum or ammonia, it is 53impure. In using baking powder, allow two teaspoons baking powder to each cup of flour, when eggs are not used; to egg mixtures allow one and one-half teaspoons baking powder. When a recipe calls for soda and cream of tartar, in substituting baking powder use double amount of cream of tartar given.

These rules apply to the various soda and cream of tartar baking powders on the market. Horsford’s Baking Powder, the only mineral one, requires one-third less than others.

Soda and cream of tartar, or baking powder mixtures, are made light by liberation of gas in mixture; the gas in soda is set free by the acid in cream of tartar; in order to accomplish this, moisture and heat are both required. As soon as moisture is added to baking powder mixtures, the gas will begin to escape; hence the necessity of baking as soon as possible. If baking powder only is used for raising, put mixture to be cooked in a hot oven.

Cream of tartar (HKC4O6H4) is obtained from argols found adhering to bottom and sides of wine casks, which are ninety per cent cream of tartar. The argols are ground and dissolved in boiling water, coloring matter removed by filtering through animal charcoal, and by a process of recrystallization the cream of tartar of commerce is obtained.

The acid found in molasses, sour milk, and lemon juice will liberate gas in soda, but the action is much quicker than when cream of tartar is used.

Fermented and unfermented breads are raised to be made light and porous, that they may be easily acted upon by the digestive ferments. Some mixtures are made light by beating sufficiently to enclose a large amount of air, and when baked in a hot oven air is forced to expand.

Aerated bread is made light by carbon dioxide forced into dough under pressure. The carbon dioxide is generated from sulphuric acid and lime. Aerated bread is of close texture, and has a flavor peculiar to itself. It is a product of the baker’s skill, but has found little favor except in few localities.

54

### Water Bread

2 cups boiling water
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon lard
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ teaspoons salt
¼ yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm water
6 cups sifted flour

Put butter, lard, sugar, and salt in bread raiser, or large bowl without a lip; pour on boiling water; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and five cups of flour; then stir until thoroughly mixed, using a knife or mixing-spoon. Add remaining flour, mix, and turn on a floured board, leaving a clean bowl; knead until mixture is smooth, elastic to touch, and bubbles may be seen under the surface. Some practice is required to knead quickly, but the motion once acquired will never be forgotten. Return to bowl, cover with a clean cloth kept for the purpose, and board or tin cover; let rise over night in temperature of 65° F. In morning cut down: this is accomplished by cutting through and turning over dough several times with a case knife, and checks fermentation for a short time; dough may be again raised, and recut down if it is not convenient to shape into loaves or biscuits after first cutting. When properly cared for, bread need never sour. Toss on board slightly floured, knead, shape into loaves or biscuits, place in greased pans, having pans nearly half full. Cover, let rise again to double its bulk, and bake in hot oven. (See Baking of Bread and Time Table for Baking.) This recipe will make a double loaf of bread and pan of biscuit. Cottolene, coto suet, or beef drippings may be used for shortening, one-third less being required. Bread shortened with butter has a good flavor, but is not as white as when lard is used.

### Milk and Water Bread

1 cup scalded milk
1 cup boiling water
1 tablespoon lard
1 tablespoon butter
1½ teaspoon salt
1 yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm water
6 cups sifted flour, or one cup white flour and enough entire wheat flour to knead

Prepare and bake as Water Bread. When entire wheat flour is used add three tablespoons molasses. Bread may be 55mixed, raised, and baked in five hours, by using one yeast cake. Bread made in this way has proved most satisfactory. It is usually mixed in the morning, and the cook is able to watch the dough while rising and keep it at uniform temperature. It is often desirable to place bowl containing dough in pan of water, keeping water at uniform temperature of from 95° to 100° F. Cooks who have not proved themselves satisfactory bread makers are successful when employing this method.

### Entire Wheat Bread

2 cups scalded milk
¼ cup sugar or
⅓ cup molasses
1 teaspoon salt
1 yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm water
4⅔ cups coarse entire wheat flour

Add sweetening and salt to milk; cool, and when lukewarm add dissolved yeast cake and flour; beat well, cover, and let rise to double its bulk. Again beat, and turn into greased bread pans, having pans one-half full; let rise, and bake. Entire Wheat Bread should not quite double its bulk during last rising. This mixture may be baked in gem pans.

### German Caraway Bread

Follow recipe for Milk and Water Bread (see p. 54), using rye flour in place of entire wheat flour, and one tablespoon sugar for sweetening. After first rising while kneading add one-third tablespoon caraway seed. Shape, let rise again, and bake in a loaf.

### Entire Wheat and White Flour Bread

Use same ingredients as for Entire Wheat Bread, with exception of flour. For flour use three and one-fourth cups entire wheat and two and three-fourths cups white flour. The dough should be slightly kneaded, and if handled quickly will not stick to board. Loaves and biscuits should be shaped with hands instead of pouring into pans, as in Entire Wheat Bread.

56

### Graham Bread

2½ cups hot liquid (water, or milk and water)
⅓ cup molasses
1½ teaspoons salt
¼ yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm water
3 cups flour
3 cups Graham flour

Prepare and bake as Entire Wheat Bread. The bran remaining in sieve after sifting Graham flour should be discarded.

### Third Bread

2 cups lukewarm water
1 yeast cake
½ tablespoon salt
½ cup molasses
1 cup rye flour
1 cup granulated corn meal
3 cups flour

Dissolve yeast cake in water, add remaining ingredients, and mix thoroughly. Let rise, shape, let rise again, and bake as Entire Wheat Bread.

### Rolled Oats Bread

2 cups boiling water
½ cup molasses
½ tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon butter
½ yeast cake dissolved in
½ cup lukewarm water
1 cup Rolled Oats
4½ cups flour

Add boiling water to oats and let stand one hour; add molasses, salt, butter, dissolved yeast cake, and flour; let rise, beat thoroughly, turn into buttered bread pans, let rise again, and bake. By using one-half cup less flour, the dough is better suited for biscuits, but, being soft, is difficult to handle. To make shaping of biscuits easy, take up mixture by spoonfuls, drop into plate of flour, and have palms of hands well covered with flour before attempting to shape.

### Rye Biscuit

1 cup boiling water
1 cup rye flakes
2 tablespoons butter
⅓ cup molasses
1½ teaspoons salt
1 yeast cake dissolved in
1 cup lukewarm water
Flour

Make same as Rolled Oats Bread.

57

### Rye Bread

1 cup scalded milk
1 cup boiling water
1 tablespoon lard
1 tablespoon butter
⅓ cup brown sugar
1½ teaspoons salt
¼ yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm water
3 cups flour
Rye meal

To milk and water add lard, butter, sugar, and salt; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and flour, beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise until light. Add rye meal until dough is stiff enough to knead; knead thoroughly, let rise, shape in loaves, let rise again, and bake.

### Date Bread

Use recipe for Health Food Muffins (see p. 67). After the first rising, while kneading, add two-thirds cup each of English walnut meats cut in small pieces, and dates stoned and cut in pieces. Shape in a loaf, let rise in pan, and bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven. This bread is well adapted for sandwiches.

### Boston Brown Bread

1 cup rye meal
1 cup granulated corn meal
1 cup Graham flour
¾ tablespoon soda
1 teaspoon salt
¾ cup molasses
2 cups sour milk, or 1¾ cups sweet milk or water

Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses and milk, stir until well mixed, turn into a well-buttered mould, and steam three and one-half hours. The cover should be buttered before being placed on mould, and then tied down with string; otherwise the bread in rising might force off cover. Mould should never be filled more than two-thirds full. A melon mould or one-pound baking-powder boxes make the most attractive-shaped loaves, but a five-pound lard pail answers the purpose. For steaming, place mould on a trivet in kettle containing boiling water, allowing water to come half-way up around mould, cover closely, and steam, adding, as needed, more boiling water.

58

### New England Brown Bread

1½ cups stale bread
3¼ cups cold water
¾ cup molasses
1½ teaspoons salt
Rye meal | 1½ cups each
Granulated corn meal
Graham flour
3 teaspoons soda

Soak bread in two cups of the water over night. In the morning rub through colander, add molasses, dry ingredients mixed and sifted, and remaining water. Stir until well mixed, fill buttered one-pound baking-powder boxes two-thirds full, cover, and steam two hours.

### Indian Bread

1½ cups Graham flour
1 cup Indian meal
½ tablespoon soda
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup molasses
1⅔ cups milk

Mix and steam same as Boston Brown Bread.

### Steamed Graham Bread

3 cups Arlington meal
1 cup flour
3½ teaspoons soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup molasses (scant)
2½ cups sour milk

Mix same as Boston Brown Bread and steam four hours. This bread may often be eaten when bread containing corn meal could not be digested.

### Parker House Rolls

2 cups scalded milk
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm water
Flour

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and three cups of flour. Beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise until light; cut down, and add enough flour to knead (it will take about two and one-half cups). Let rise again, toss on slightly floured board, knead, pat, and roll out to one-third inch thickness. Shape with biscuit-cutter, first dipped in flour. Dip the handle of a case knife in flour, and with it make a crease through the middle of each piece; brush over one-half of each piece with melted butter, fold, and press edges together. Place in greased pan, one inch apart, cover, let rise, and bake in hot oven twelve to fifteen minutes. As rolls rise they will part slightly, and if hastened in rising are apt to lose their shape.

Sweet French Rolls.—Page 60.

Parker House Rolls; Salad Rolls; Clover Leaf Biscuit; Sticks.—Page 59.

Swedish Tea Ring; Swedish Tea Braid.—Page 64.

Coffee Cakes (Brioche).—Page 62.

59Parker House Rolls may be shaped by cutting or tearing off small pieces of dough, and shaping round like a biscuit; place in rows on floured board, cover, and let rise fifteen minutes. With handle of large wooden spoon, or toy rolling-pin, roll through centre of each biscuit, brush edge of lower halves with melted butter, fold, press lightly, place in buttered pan one inch apart, cover, let rise, and bake.

### Salad or Dinner Rolls

Use same ingredients as for Parker House Rolls, allowing one-fourth cup butter. Shape in small biscuits, place in rows on a floured board, cover with cloth and pan, and let rise until light and well puffed. Flour handle of wooden spoon and make a deep crease in middle of each biscuit, take up, and press edges together. Place closely in buttered pan, cover, let rise, and bake twelve to fifteen minutes in hot oven. From this same mixture crescents, braids, twists, bow-knots, clover leaves, and other fancy shapes may be made.

### Sticks

1 cup scalded milk
¼ cup butter
1½ tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1 yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm water
White 1 egg
3¾ cups flour

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake, white of egg well beaten, and flour. Knead, let rise, shape, let rise again, and start baking in a hot oven, reducing heat, that sticks may be crisp and dry. To shape sticks, first shape as small biscuits, roll on board (where there is no flour) with hands until eight inches in length, keeping of uniform size and rounded ends, which may be done by bringing fingers close to, but not over, ends of sticks.

60

### Salad Sticks

Follow recipe for Sticks. Let rise, and add salt to dough, allowing two teaspoons to each cup of dough. Shape in small sticks, let rise again, sprinkle with salt, and bake in a slow oven. If preferred glazed, brush over with egg yolk slightly beaten and diluted with one-half tablespoon cold water.

### Swedish Rolls

Use recipe for Salad Rolls. Roll to one-fourth inch thickness, spread with butter, and sprinkle with two tablespoons sugar mixed with one-third teaspoon cinnamon, one-third cup stoned raisins finely chopped, and two tablespoons chopped citron; roll up like jelly roll, and cut in three-fourths inch pieces. Place pieces in pan close together, flat side down. Again let rise, and bake in a hot oven. When rolls are taken from oven, brush over with white of egg slightly beaten, diluted with one-half tablespoon water; return to oven to dry egg, and thus glaze top.

### Sweet French Rolls

1 cup milk
1 yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm water
Flour
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg
Yolk one egg
⅛ teaspoon mace
¼ cup melted butter

Scald milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and one and one-half cups flour; beat well, cover, and let rise until light. Add sugar, salt, eggs well beaten, mace, and butter, and enough more flour to knead; knead, let rise again, shape, and bake same as Salad Rolls, or roll in a long strip to one-fourth inch in thickness, spread with butter, roll up like jelly roll, and cut in one-inch pieces. Place pieces in pan close together, flat side down. A few gratings from the rind of a lemon or one-half teaspoon lemon extract may be substituted in place of mace.

61

### Luncheon Rolls

½ cup scalded milk
2 tablespoons sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
½ yeast cake dissolved in
2 tablespoons lukewarm water
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 egg
Few gratings from rind of lemon
Flour

Add sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and three-fourths cup flour. Cover and let rise; then add butter, egg well beaten, grated rind of lemon, and enough flour to knead. Let rise again, roll to one-half inch thickness, shape with small biscuit-cutter, place in buttered pan close together, let rise again, and bake.

### French Rusks

2 cups scalded milk
¼ cup butter
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 yeast cake dissolved in Flour
1 egg
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
¾ teaspoon vanilla
¼ cup lukewarm water

Add butter, sugar, and salt to scalded milk; when lukewarm add dissolved yeast cake and three cups flour. Cover and let rise; add egg and egg yolks well beaten, and enough flour to knead. Let rise again, and shape as Parker House Rolls. Before baking, make three parallel creases on top of each roll. When nearly done, brush over with whites of eggs beaten slightly, diluted with one tablespoon cold water and vanilla. Sprinkle with sugar.

### Rusks (Zweiback)

½ cup scalded milk
½ teaspoon salt
2 yeast cakes
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup melted butter
3 eggs
Flour

Dissolve yeast cakes in milk; when lukewarm, add salt and one cup flour; cover, and let rise until very light; then add sugar, butter, eggs unbeaten, and flour enough to handle. 62Shape as finger rolls, and place close together on a buttered sheet in parallel rows, two inches apart; let rise again and bake twenty minutes. When cold, cut diagonally in one-half inch slices, and brown evenly in oven.

### German Coffee Bread

1 cup scalded milk
⅓ cup butter, or butter and lard
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1 egg
⅓ yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm milk
½ cup raisins stoned and cut in pieces

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake, egg well beaten, flour to make stiff batter, and raisins; cover, and let rise over night; in morning spread in buttered dripping-pan one-half inch thick. Cover and let rise again. Before baking, brush over with beaten egg, and cover with following mixture: Melt three tablespoons butter, add one-third cup sugar and one teaspoon cinnamon. When sugar is partially melted, add three tablespoons flour.

### Coffee Cakes (Brioche)

1 cup scalded milk
¼ cup yolks of eggs
½ cup whole eggs
⅔ cup butter
½ cup sugar
2 yeast cakes
½ teaspoon extract lemon or
2 pounded cardamon seeds
4⅔ cups flour
French Confectioner

Cool milk; when lukewarm, add yeast cakes, and when they are dissolved add remaining ingredients, and beat thoroughly with hand ten minutes; let rise six hours. Keep in ice-box over night; in morning turn on floured board, roll in long rectangular piece one-fourth inch thick; spread with softened butter, fold from sides toward centre to make three layers. Cut off pieces three-fourths inch wide; cover and let rise. Take each piece separately in hands and twist from ends in opposite directions, coil and bring ends together at top of cake. Let rise in pans and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven; cool and brush over with confectioners’ 63sugar, moistened with boiling water to spread, and flavored with vanilla.

### Coffee Rolls

2 cups milk
1½ yeast cakes
Butter | ½ cup each
Lard
Sugar
Flour
1 egg
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
Melted butter
Confectioners’ sugar
Vanilla

Scald milk, when lukewarm add yeast cakes, and as soon as dissolved add three and one-half cups flour. Beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise; then add butter, lard, sugar, egg unbeaten, cinnamon, salt, and flour enough to knead. Knead until well mixed, cover, and let rise. Turn mixture on a floured cloth. Roll into a long, rectangular piece one-fourth inch thick. Brush over with melted butter, fold from ends toward centre to make three layers and cut off pieces three-fourths inch wide. Cover and let rise. Take each piece separately in hands and twist from ends in opposite directions, then shape in a coil. Place in buttered pans, cover, again let rise, and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. Cool slightly, and brush over with confectioners’ sugar moistened with boiling water and flavored with vanilla.

### Swedish Bread

2½ cups scalded milk
1 yeast cake
Flour
½ cup melted butter
⅔ cup sugar
1 egg, well beaten
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon almond extract

Add yeast cake to one-half cup milk which has been allowed to cool until lukewarm; as soon as dissolved add one-half cup flour, beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise. When light, add remaining milk and four and one-half cups flour. Stir until thoroughly mixed, cover, and again let rise; then add remaining ingredients and one and one-half cups flour. Toss on a floured cloth and knead, using one-half cup flour, cover, and again let rise. Shape as Swedish Tea Braid or Tea Ring I or II, and bake.

64 Swedish Tea Braid. Cut off three pieces of mixture of equal size and roll, using the hands, in pieces of uniform size; then braid. Put on a buttered sheet, cover, let rise, brush over with yolk of one egg, slightly beaten, and diluted with one-half tablespoon cold water, and sprinkle with finely chopped blanched almonds. Bake in a moderate oven.

Swedish Tea Ring I. Shape as tea braid, form in shape of ring, and proceed as with tea braid, having almonds blanched and cut in slices crosswise.

Swedish Tea Ring II. Take one-third Swedish Bread mixture and shape, using the hands, in a long roll. Put on an unfloured board and roll, using a rolling-pin, as thinly as possible. Mixture will adhere to board but may be easily lifted with a knife. Spread with melted butter, sprinkle with sugar and chopped blanched almonds or cinnamon. Roll like a jelly roll, cut a piece from each end and join ends to form ring. Place on a buttered sheet, and cut with scissors and shape (see illustration). Let rise, and proceed as with Tea Ring I.

### Dutch Apple Cake

1 cup scalded milk
⅓ cup butter
⅓ cup sugar
⅓ teaspoon salt
1 yeast cake
2 eggs
Flour
Melted butter
5 sour apples
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons currants

Mix first four ingredients. When lukewarm add yeast cake, eggs unbeaten, and flour to make a soft dough. Cover, let rise, beat thoroughly, and again let rise. Spread in a buttered dripping-pan as thinly as possible and brush over with melted butter. Pare, cut in eighths, and remove cores from apples.

Press sharp edges of apples into the dough in parallel rows lengthwise of pan. Sprinkle with sugar mixed with cinnamon and sprinkle with currants. Cover, let rise, and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. Cut in squares and serve hot or cold with whipped cream sweetened and flavored.

Swedish Tea Ring II before baking.—Page 64.

Swedish Tea Ring II.—Page 64.

Raised Hominy Muffins.—Page 66.

Pop-Overs.—Page 76.

65

### Buns

1 cup scalded milk
⅓ cup butter
⅓ cup sugar
1 yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm water
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup raisins stoned and cut in quarters
1 teaspoon extract lemon
Flour

Add one-half sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and one and one-half cups flour; cover, and let rise until light; add butter, remaining sugar, raisins, lemon, and flour to make a dough; let rise, shape like biscuits, let rise again, and bake. If wanted glazed, brush over with beaten egg before baking.

### Hot Cross Buns

1 cup scalded milk
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon salt
½ yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm water
¾ teaspoon cinnamon
3 cups flour
1 egg
¼ cup raisins stoned and quartered, or
¼ cup currants

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake, cinnamon, flour, and egg well beaten; when thoroughly mixed, add raisins, cover, and let rise over night. In morning, shape in forms of large biscuits, place in pan one inch apart, let rise, brush over with beaten egg, and bake twenty minutes; cool, and with ornamental frosting make a cross on top of each bun.

### Raised Muffins

1 cup scalded milk
1 cup boiling water
2 tablespoons butter
¼ cup sugar
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ yeast cake
1 egg
4 cups flour

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk and water; when lukewarm, add yeast cake, and when dissolved, egg well beaten, and flour; beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise over night. In morning, fill buttered muffin rings two-thirds full; let rise until rings are full, and bake thirty minutes in hot oven.

66

### Grilled Muffins

Put buttered muffin rings on a hot greased griddle. Fill one-half full with raised muffin mixture, and cook slowly until well risen and browned underneath; turn muffins and rings and brown the other side. This is a convenient way of cooking muffins when oven is not in condition for baking.

### Raised Hominy Muffins

1 cup warm cooked hominy
¼ cup butter
1 cup scalded milk
3 tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ yeast cake
¼ cup lukewarm water
3¼ cups flour

Mix first five ingredients; when lukewarm add yeast cake, dissolved in lukewarm water and flour. Cover, and let rise over night. In the morning cut down, fill hot buttered gem pans two-thirds full, let rise one hour, and bake in a moderate oven. Unless cooked hominy is rather stiff more flour will be needed.

### Raised Rice Muffins

Make same as Raised Hominy Muffins, substituting one cup hot boiled rice in place of hominy, and adding the whites of two eggs beaten until stiff.

### Raised Oatmeal Muffins

¾ cup scalded milk
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm milk
1 cup cold cooked oatmeal
2½ cups flour

Add sugar and salt to scalded milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake. Work oatmeal into flour with tips of fingers, and add to first mixture; beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise over night. In morning, fill buttered iron gem pans two-thirds full, let rise on back of range that pan may gradually heat and mixture rise to fill pan. Bake in moderate oven twenty-five to thirty minutes.

67

### Health Food Muffins

1 cup warm wheat mush
¼ cup brown sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter
¼ yeast cake
¼ cup lukewarm water
Flour

Mix first four ingredients, add yeast cake dissolved in lukewarm water, and flour to knead. Cover, and let rise over night. In the morning cut down, fill hot buttered gem pans two-thirds full and bake in a moderate oven. This mixture, when baked in a loaf, makes a delicious bread.

### Squash Biscuits

½ cup squash (steamed and sifted)
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup scalded milk
¼ yeast cake dissolved in
¼ cup lukewarm water
¼ cup butter
2½ cups flour

Add squash, sugar, salt, and butter to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and flour; cover, and let rise over night. In morning shape into biscuits, let rise, and bake.

### Imperial Muffins

1 cup scalded milk
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1¾ cups flour
1 cup corn meal
¼ cup butter
⅓ yeast cake dissolved in ¼ cup lukewarm water

Add sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm add dissolved yeast cake, and one and one-fourth cups flour. Cover, and let rise until light, then add corn meal, remaining flour, and butter. Let rise over night; in the morning fill buttered muffin rings two-thirds full; let rise until rings are full and bake thirty minutes in hot oven.

### Dry Toast

Cut stale bread in one-fourth inch slices. Crust may or may not be removed. Put slices on wire toaster, lock toaster and place over clear fire to dry, holding some distance from coals; turn and dry other side. Hold nearer to coals and 68color a golden brown on each side. Toast, if piled compactly and allowed to stand, will soon become moist. Toast may be buttered at table or before sending to table.

### Water Toast

Dip slices of dry toast quickly in boiling salted water, allowing one-half teaspoon salt to one cup boiling water. Spread slices with butter, and serve at once.

### Milk Toast I

1 pint scalded milk
2 tablespoons butter
2½ tablespoons bread flour
½ teaspoon salt
Cold water
6 slices dry toast

Add cold water gradually to flour to make a smooth, thin paste. Add to milk, stirring constantly until thickened, cover, and cook twenty minutes; then add salt and butter in small pieces. Dip slices of toast separately in sauce; when soft, remove to serving dish. Pour remaining sauce over all.

### Milk Toast II

Use ingredients given in Milk Toast I, omitting cold water, and make as Thin White Sauce. Dip toast in sauce.

### Brown Bread Milk Toast

Make same as Milk Toast, using slices of toasted brown bread in place of white bread. Brown bread is better toasted by first drying slices in oven.

### Cream Toast

Substitute cream for milk, and omit butter in recipe for Milk Toast I or II.

### Tomato Cream Toast

1½ cups stewed and strained tomato
½ cup scalded cream
¼ teaspoon soda
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
½ teaspoon salt
6 slices toast

Put butter in saucepan; when melted and bubbling, add flour, mixed with salt, and stir in gradually tomato, to which 69soda has been added, then add cream. Dip slices of toast in sauce. Serve as soon as made.

### German Toast

3 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup milk
6 slices stale bread

Beat eggs slightly, add salt, sugar, and milk; strain into a shallow dish. Soak bread in mixture until soft. Cook on a hot, well-greased griddle; brown on one side, turn and brown other side. Serve for breakfast or luncheon, or with a sauce for dessert.

### Brewis

Break stale bits or slices of brown and white bread in small pieces, allowing one and one-half cups brown bread to one-half cup white bread. Butter a hot frying-pan, put in bread, and cover with equal parts milk and water. Cook until soft; add butter and salt to taste.

### Bread for Garnishing

Dry toast is often used for garnishing, cut in various shapes. Always shape before toasting. Cubes of bread, toast points, and small oblong pieces are most common. Cubes of stale bread, from which centres are removed, are fried in deep fat and called croûstades; half-inch cubes, browned in butter, or fried in deep fat, are called croûtons.

### Uses for Stale Bread

All pieces of bread should be saved and utilized. Large pieces are best for toast. Soft stale bread, from which crust is removed, when crumbed, is called stale breadcrumbs, or raspings, and is used for puddings, griddle-cakes, omelets, scalloped dishes, and dipping food to be fried. Remnants of bread, from which crusts have not been removed, are dried in oven, rolled, and sifted. These are called dry bread crumbs, and are useful for crumbing croquettes, cutlets, fish, meat, etc.

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## CHAPTER V
BISCUITS, BREAKFAST CAKES, AND SHORTCAKES

### Batters, Sponges, and Doughs

Batter is a mixture of flour and some liquid (usually combined with other ingredients, as sugar, salt, eggs, etc.), of consistency to pour easily, or to drop from a spoon.

Batters are termed thin or thick, according to their consistency.

Sponge is a batter to which yeast is added.

Dough differs from batter inasmuch as it is stiff enough to be handled.

### Cream Scones

2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking power
2 teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons butter
2 eggs
⅓ cup cream

Mix and sift together flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt. Rub in butter with tips of fingers; add eggs well beaten, and cream. Toss on a floured board, pat, and roll to three-fourths inch in thickness. Cut in squares, brush with white of egg, sprinkle with sugar, and bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes.

### Baking Powder Biscuit I

2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lard
¾ cup milk and water in equal parts
1 tablespoon butter

Mix dry ingredients, and sift twice.

Work in butter and lard with tips of fingers; add gradually the liquid, mixing with knife to a soft dough. It is impossible to determine the exact amount of liquid, owing 71to differences in flour. Toss on a floured board, pat and roll lightly to one-half inch in thickness. Shape with a biscuit-cutter. Place on buttered pan, and bake in hot oven twelve to fifteen minutes. If baked in too slow an oven, the gas will escape before it has done its work. Many obtain better results by using bread flour.

### Baking Powder Biscuit II

2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons butter
¾ cup milk
½ teaspoon salt

Mix and bake as Baking Powder Biscuit I.

### Emergency Biscuit

Use recipe for Baking Powder Biscuit I or II, with the addition of more milk, that mixture may be dropped from spoon without spreading. Drop by spoonfuls on a buttered pan, one-half inch apart. Brush over with milk, and bake in hot oven eight minutes.

### Fruit Rolls (Pin Wheel Biscuit)

2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons butter
⅔ cup milk
⅓ cup stoned raisins (finely chopped)
2 tablespoons citron (finely chopped)
⅓ teaspoon cinnamon

Mix as Baking Powder Biscuit II. Roll to one-fourth inch thickness, brush over with melted butter, and sprinkle with fruit, sugar, and cinnamon. Roll like a jelly roll; cut off pieces three-fourths inch in thickness. Place on buttered tin, and bake in hot oven fifteen minutes. Currants may be used in place of raisins and citron.

### Twin Mountain Muffins

¼ cup butter
¼ cup sugar
1 egg
¾ cup milk
2 cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter; add sugar and egg well beaten; sift baking powder with flour, and add to the first mixture, alternating 72with milk. Bake in buttered tin gem pans twenty-five minutes.

### One Egg Muffins I

3½ cups flour
6 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1⅓ cups milk
3 tablespoons melted butter
1 egg
3 tablespoons sugar

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add gradually milk, egg well beaten, and melted butter. Bake in buttered gem pans twenty-five minutes. If iron pans are used they must be previously heated. This recipe makes thirty muffins. Use half the proportions given and a small egg, if half the number is required.

### One Egg Muffins II

2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 egg

Mix and bake as One Egg Muffin I.

### Berry Muffins I (without eggs)

2 cups flour
¼ cup sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoon butter
1 cup milk (scant)
1 cup berries
½ teaspoon salt

Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in butter with tips of fingers; add milk and berries.

### Berry Muffins II

¼ cup butter
⅓ cup sugar
1 egg
2⅔ cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
1 cup berries

Cream the butter; add gradually sugar and egg well beaten; mix and sift flour, baking powder, and salt, reserving one-fourth cup flour to be mixed with berries and added last; the remainder alternately with milk.

73

### Queen of Muffins

¼ cup butter
⅓ cup sugar
1 egg
½ cup milk (scant)
1½ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder

Mix and bake same as Twin Mountain Muffins.

### Rice Muffins

2¼ cups flour
¾ cup hot cooked rice
5 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons melted butter
½ teaspoon salt

Mix and sift flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder; add one-half milk, egg well beaten, the remainder of the milk mixed with rice, and beat thoroughly; then add butter. Bake in buttered muffin rings placed in buttered pan or buttered gem pans.

### Oatmeal Muffins

1 cup cooked oatmeal
1½ cups flour
2 tablespoons sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons melted butter

Mix and bake as Rice Muffins.

### Graham Muffins I

1¼ cups Graham flour
1 cup flour
1 cup sour milk
⅓ cup molasses
¾ teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon salt

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add milk to molasses, and combine mixtures.

### Graham Muffins II

1 cup Graham or entire wheat flour
1 cup flour
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
1 egg
1 tablespoon melted butter
4 teaspoons baking powder

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add milk gradually, egg well beaten, and melted butter; bake in hot oven in buttered gem pans twenty-five minutes.

74

### Rye Muffins I

Make as Graham Muffins II, substituting rye meal for Graham flour.

### Rye Muffins II

1¼ cups rye meal
1¼ cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup molasses
1¼ cups milk
1 egg
1 tablespoon melted butter

Mix and bake as Graham Muffins II, adding molasses with milk.

### Rye Gems

1⅔ cups rye flour
1⅓ cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup molasses
1¼ cups milk
2 eggs
3 tablespoons melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses, milk, eggs well beaten, and butter. Bake in hot oven in buttered gem pans twenty-five minutes.

### Corn Meal Gems

½ cup corn meal
1 cup flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon melted butter
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup milk
1 egg

Mix and bake as Graham Muffins II.

### Hominy Gems

¼ cup hominy
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup boiling water
1 cup scalded milk
1 cup corn meal
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons butter
2 eggs
3 teaspoons baking powder

Add hominy mixed with salt to boiling water and let stand until hominy absorbs water. Add scalded milk to corn meal, then add sugar and butter. Combine mixtures, cool slightly, add yolks of eggs beaten until thick, and whites of eggs beaten until stiff. Sift in baking powder and beat thoroughly. Bake in hot buttered gem pans.

75

### Berkshire Muffins

½ cup corn meal
½ cup flour
½ cup cooked rice
2 tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup scalded milk (scant)
1 egg
1 tablespoon melted butter
3 teaspoons baking powder

Turn scalded milk on meal, let stand five minutes; add rice, and flour mixed and sifted with remaining dry ingredients. Add yolk of egg well beaten, butter, and white of egg beaten stiff and dry.

### Golden Corn Cake

¾ cup corn meal
1¼ cups flour
¼ cup sugar
5 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
1 egg
1 or 2 tablespoons melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add milk, egg well beaten, and butter; bake in shallowed buttered pan in hot oven twenty minutes.

### Corn Cake (sweetened with Molasses)

1 cup corn meal
¾ cup flour
3½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup molasses
¾ cup milk
1 egg
1 tablespoon melted butter

Mix and bake as Golden Corn Cake, adding molasses to milk.

### White Corn Cake

¼ cup butter
½ cup sugar
1⅓ cups milk
Whites 3 eggs
1¼ cups white corn meal
1¼ cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt

Cream the butter; add sugar gradually; add milk, alternating with dry ingredients, mixed and sifted. Beat thoroughly; add whites of eggs beaten stiff. Bake in buttered cake pan thirty minutes.

76

### Rich Corn Cake

1 cup corn meal
1 cup white flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
⅞ cup milk
2 eggs
¼ cup melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add milk, gradually, eggs well beaten, and butter. Bake in a buttered, shallow pan, in a hot oven.

### Susie’s Spider Corn Cake

1¼ cups corn meal
2 cups sour milk
1 teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
2 tablespoons butter

Mix soda, salt, and corn meal; gradually add eggs well beaten and milk. Heat frying-pan, grease sides and bottom of pan with butter, turn in the mixture, place on middle grate in hot oven, and cook twenty minutes.

### White Corn Meal Cake

1 cup scalded milk
½ cup white corn meal
1 teaspoon salt

Add salt to corn meal, and pour on gradually milk. Turn into a buttered shallow pan to the depth of one-fourth inch. Bake in a moderate oven until crisp. Split and spread with butter.

### Pop-overs

1 cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
⅞ cup milk
2 eggs
½ teaspoon melted butter

Mix salt and flour; add milk gradually, in order to obtain a smooth batter. Add egg, beaten until light, and butter; beat two minutes,—using Dover egg-beater,—turn into hissing hot buttered iron gem pans, and bake thirty to thirty-five minutes in a hot oven. They may be baked in buttered earthen cups, when the bottom will have a glazed appearance. Small round iron gem pans are best for Pop-overs.

77

### Graham Pop-overs

⅔ cup entire wheat flour
⅓ cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
⅞ cup milk
1 egg
½ teaspoon melted butter

Prepare and bake as Pop-overs.

### Breakfast Puffs

1 cup flour
½ cup milk
½ cup water

Mix milk and water; add gradually to flour, and beat with Dover egg-beater until very light. Bake same as Pop-overs.

### Fadges

1 cup entire wheat flour
1 cup cold water

Add water gradually to flour, and beat with Dover egg-beater until very light. Bake same as Pop-overs.

### Zante Muffins

½ cup butter
¾ cup sugar
3 eggs
1½ cups milk
2 cups corn meal
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
5 teaspoons baking powder
½ cup currants

Cream the butter; add sugar, gradually, eggs well beaten, and milk; then add dry ingredients mixed and sifted, and currants. Bake in buttered individual tins.

### Maryland Biscuit

1 pint flour
⅓ cup lard
1 teaspoon salt
Milk and water in equal quantities
Southern Pupil

Mix and sift flour and salt; work in lard with tips of fingers, and moisten to a stiff dough. Toss on slightly floured board, and beat with rolling-pin thirty minutes, continually folding over the dough. Roll one-third inch in thickness, shape with round cutter two inches in diameter, prick with fork, and place on a buttered tin. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven.

78

### GRIDDLE-CAKES

#### Sour Milk Griddle-cakes

2½ cups flour
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups sour milk
1¼ teaspoons soda
1 egg

Mix and sift flour, salt, and soda; add sour milk, and egg well beaten. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased hot griddle; cook on one side. When puffed, full of bubbles, and cooked on edges, turn, and cook other side. Serve with butter and maple syrup.

#### Sweet Milk Griddle-cakes

3 cups flour
1½ tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup sugar
2 cups milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients; beat egg, add milk, and pour slowly on first mixture. Beat thoroughly, and add butter. Cook same as Sour Milk Griddle-cakes. Begin cooking cakes at once or more baking powder will be required.

#### Entire Wheat Griddle-cakes

½ cup entire wheat flour
1 cup flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons sugar
1 egg
1¼ cups milk
1 tablespoon melted butter

Prepare and cook same as Sweet Milk Griddle-cakes.

#### Corn Griddle-cakes

2 cups flour
½ cup corn meal
1½ tablespoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons salt
⅓ cup sugar
1½ cups boiling water
1¼ cups milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons melted butter

Add meal to boiling water, and boil five minutes; turn into bowl, add milk, and remaining dry ingredients mixed and sifted, then the egg well beaten, and butter. Cook same as other griddle-cakes.

79

#### Rice Griddle-cakes I

2½ cups flour
½ cup cold cooked rice
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup sugar
1½ cups milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Work in rice with tips of fingers; add egg well beaten, milk, and butter. Cook same as other griddle-cakes.

#### Rice Griddle-cakes II

1 cup milk
1 cup warm boiled rice
½ teaspoon salt
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
1 tablespoon melted butter
⅞ cup flour

Pour milk over rice and salt, add yolks of eggs beaten until thick and lemon color, butter, flour, and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry.

#### Bread Griddle-cakes

1½ cups fine stale bread crumbs
1½ cups scalded milk
2 tablespoons butter
2 eggs
½ cup flour
½ teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking powder

Add milk and butter to crumbs, and soak until crumbs are soft; add eggs well beaten, then flour, salt, and baking powder mixed and sifted. Cook same as other griddle-cakes.

### Buckwheat Cakes

⅓ cup fine bread crumbs
2 cups scalded milk
½ teaspoon salt
¼ yeast cake
½ cup lukewarm water
1¾ cups buckwheat flour
1 tablespoon molasses

Pour milk over crumbs, and soak thirty minutes; add salt, yeast cake dissolved in lukewarm water, and buckwheat to make a batter thin enough to pour. Let rise over night; in the morning, stir well, add molasses, one-fourth teaspoon soda dissolved in one-fourth cup lukewarm water, and cook same as griddle-cakes. Save enough batter to raise another mixing, instead of using yeast cake; it will require one-half cup.

80

### Waffles

1¾ cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
1 tablespoon melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add milk gradually, yolks of eggs well beaten, butter, and whites of eggs beaten stiff; cook on a greased hot waffle-iron. Serve with maple syrup.

A waffle-iron should fit closely on range, be well heated on one side, turned, heated on other side, and thoroughly greased before iron is filled. In filling, put a tablespoonful of mixture in each compartment near centre of iron, cover, and mixture will spread to just fill iron. If sufficiently heated, it should be turned almost as soon as filled and covered. In using a new iron, special care must be taken in greasing, or waffles will stick.

### Waffles with Boiled Cider

Follow directions for making Waffles. Serve with

Boiled Cider. Allow twice as much cider as sugar, and let boil until of a syrup consistency.

### Rice Waffles

1¾ cups flour
⅔ cup cold cooked rice
1½ cups milk
2 tablespoons sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon melted butter
1 egg

Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in rice with tips of fingers; add milk, yolk of egg well beaten, butter, and white of egg beaten stiff. Cook same as Waffles.

### Virginia Waffles

1½ cups boiling water
½ cup white corn meal
1½ cups milk
3 cups flour
3 tablespoons sugar
1¼ tablespoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons salt
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
2 tablespoons melted butter

Cook meal in boiling water twenty minutes; add milk, dry ingredients mixed and sifted, yolks of eggs well beaten, butter, and whites of eggs beaten stiff. Cook same as Waffles.

Waffles.—Page 80.

Strawberry Shortcake.—Page 84.

Shirred Egg.—Page 97.

Eggs À la Commodore.—Page 97.

81

### Raised Waffles

1¾ cups milk
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter
¼ yeast cake
¼ cup lukewarm water
2 cups flour
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs

Scald milk; add salt and butter, and when lukewarm, add yeast cake dissolved in water, and flour. Beat well; let rise over night; add yolks of eggs well beaten, and whites of eggs beaten stiff. Cook same as Waffles. By using a whole yeast cake, the mixture will rise in one and one-half hours.

### Fried Drop Cakes

1⅓ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
⅓ cup sugar
½ cup milk
1 egg
1 teaspoon melted butter

Beat egg until light; add milk, dry ingredients mixed and sifted, and melted butter. Drop by spoonfuls in hot, new, deep fat; fry until light brown and cooked through, which must at first be determined by piercing with a skewer, or breaking apart. Remove with a skimmer, and drain on brown paper.

### Rye Drop Cakes

⅔ cup rye meal
⅔ cup flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons molasses
½ cup milk
1 egg

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add milk gradually, molasses, and egg well beaten. Cook same as Fried Drop Cakes.

### Raised Doughnuts

1 cup milk
¼ yeast cake
¼ cup lukewarm water
1 teaspoon salt
⅓ cup butter and lard mixed
1 cup light brown sugar
2 eggs
½ grated nutmeg
Flour

Scald and cool milk; when lukewarm, add yeast cake dissolved in water, salt, and flour enough to make a stiff batter; 82let rise over night. In morning add shortening melted, sugar, eggs well beaten, nutmeg, and enough flour to make a stiff dough; let rise again, and if too soft to handle, add more flour. Toss on floured board, pat, and roll to three-fourths inch thickness. Shape with cutter, and work between hands until round. Place on floured board, let rise one hour, turn, and let rise again; fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Cool, and roll in powdered sugar.

### Doughnuts I

1 cup sugar
2½ tablespoons butter
3 eggs
1 cup milk
4 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
1½ teaspoons salt
Flour to roll

Cream the butter, and add one-half sugar. Beat egg until light, add remaining sugar, and combine mixtures. Add three and one-half cups flour, mixed and sifted with baking powder, salt, and spices; then enough more flour to make dough stiff enough to roll. Toss one-third of mixture on floured board, knead slightly, pat, and roll out to one-fourth inch thickness. Shape with a doughnut cutter, fry in deep fat, take up on a skewer, and drain on brown paper. Add trimmings to one-half remaining mixture, roll, shape, and fry as before; repeat. Doughnuts should come quickly to top of fat, brown on one side, then be turned to brown on the other; avoid turning more than once. The fat must be kept at a uniform temperature. If too cold, doughnuts will absorb fat; if too hot, doughnuts will brown before sufficiently risen. See rule for testing fat.

### Doughnuts II

4 cups flour
1½ teaspoons salt
1¾ teaspoons soda
1¾ teaspoons cream of tartar
¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
½ tablespoon butter
1 cup sugar
1 cup sour milk
1 egg

Put flour in shallow pan; add salt, soda, cream of tartar, and spices. Work in butter with tips of fingers; add sugar, egg well beaten, and sour milk. Stir thoroughly, and toss 83on board thickly dredged with flour; knead slightly, using more flour if necessary. Pat and roll out to one-fourth inch thickness; shape, fry, and drain. Sour milk doughnuts may be turned as soon as they come to top of fat, and frequently afterwards.

### Doughnuts III

2 cups sugar
4 eggs
1⅓ cups sour milk
4 tablespoons melted butter
2 teaspoons soda
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
Flour

Mix ingredients in order given; shape, fry, and drain.

### Crullers

¼ cup butter
1 cup sugar
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
4 cups flour
¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
3½ teaspoons baking powder
1 cup milk
Powdered sugar and cinnamon

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, yolks of eggs well beaten, and whites of eggs beaten stiff. Mix flour, nutmeg, and baking powder; add alternately with milk to first mixture; toss on floured board, roll thin, and cut in pieces three inches long by two inches wide; make four one-inch parallel gashes crosswise at equal intervals. Take up by running finger in and out of gashes, and lower into deep fat. Fry same as Doughnuts I.

### Strawberry Short Cake I

2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons sugar
¾ cup milk
¼ cup butter

Mix dry ingredients, sift twice, work in butter with tips of fingers, and add milk gradually. Toss on floured board, divide in two parts. Pat, roll out, and bake twelve minutes in a hot oven in buttered Washington pie or round layer cake tins. Split, and spread with butter. Sweeten strawberries to taste, place on back of range until warmed, crush slightly, and put between and on top of Short Cakes; cover top with Cream Sauce I.

84

### Strawberry Short Cake II

2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
⅓ cup butter
¾ cup milk

Mix same as Strawberry Short Cake I. Toss and roll on floured board. Put in round buttered tin, and shape with back of hand to fit pan.

### Rich Strawberry Short Cake

2 cups flour
¼ cup sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains nutmeg
1 egg
⅓ cup butter
1¼ tablespoons lard
⅓ cup milk

Mix dry ingredients and sift twice, work in shortening with tips of fingers, add egg well beaten, and milk. Bake same as Strawberry Short Cake II. Split cake and spread under layer with Cream Sauce II. Cover with strawberries which have been sprinkled with powdered sugar; again spread with sauce, and cover with upper layer.

### Fruit Short Cake

¼ cup butter
½ cup sugar
1 egg
¼ cup milk
1 cup flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten. Mix and sift flour, baking powder, and salt, adding alternately with milk to first mixture. Beat thoroughly, and bake in a buttered round tin. Cool, spread thickly with sweetened fruit, and cover with Cream Sauce I or II. Fresh strawberries, peaches, apricots, raspberries, or canned quince or pineapple may be used. When canned goods are used, drain fruit from syrup and cut in pieces. Dilute cream for Cream Sauce with fruit syrup in place of milk.

Any shortcake mixture may be made for individual service by shaping with a large biscuit-cutter; or mixture may be baked in a shallow cake pan, centre removed and filled with fruit, and pieces baked separately to introduce to represent handles.

85

## CHAPTER VI
CEREALS

Cereals (cultivated grasses) rank first among vegetable foods; being of hardy growth and easy cultivation, they are more widely diffused over the globe than any of the flowering plants. They include wheat, oats, rye, barley, maize (Indian corn), and rice; some authorities place buckwheat among them. Wheat probably is the most largely consumed; next to wheat, comes rice.

### TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION

| Proteid | Fat | Starch | Mineral matter | Water
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Oatmeal | 15.6 | 7.3 | 68.0 | 1.9 | 7.2
Corn meal | 8.9 | 2.2 | 75.1 | 0.9 | 12.9
Wheat flour (spring) | 11.8 | 1.1 | 75.0 | 0.5 | 11.6
Entire wheat flour | 14.2 | 1.9 | 70.6 | 1.2 | 12.1
Graham flour | 13.7 | 2.2 | 70.3 | 2.0 | 11.8
Pearl barley | 9.3 | 1.0 | 77.6 | 1.3 | 10.8
Rye meal | 7.1 | 0.9 | 78.5 | 0.8 | 12.7
Rice | 7.8 | 0.4 | 79.4 | 0.4 | 12.4
Buckwheat flour | 6.1 | 1.0 | 77.2 | 1.4 | 14.3
Macaroni | 11.7 | 1.6 | 72.9 | 3.0 | 10.8
Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.

Macaroni, spaghetti, and vermicelli are made from wheaten flour, rich in gluten, moistened to a stiff dough with water, and forced through small apertures in an iron plate by means of a screw press. Various Italian pastes are made from the same mixture. Macaroni is manufactured to some extent in this country, but the best comes from Italy, Lagana and Pejero, being the favorite brand. When macaroni is colored, it is done by the use of saffron, not by eggs, as is generally supposed. The only egg macaroni is manufactured in strips, and comes from Minneapolis.

86Macaroni is valuable food, as it is very cheap and nutritious; but being deficient in fat, it should be combined with cream, butter, or cheese, to make a perfect food.

From cereals many preparations are made, used alone, or in combination with other food products. From rice is made rice flour; from oats, oatmeal, and oats steam-cooked and rolled,—as Rolled Avena, Quaker Rolled Oats, H-O, etc. There are many species of corn, the principal varieties being white, yellow, and red. From corn is made corn meal,—both white and yellow,—corn-starch, hominy, maizena, cerealine, samp, and hulled corn; from wheat, wheaten or white flour, Wheatena, Wheatlet, Rolled Wheat, Pettijohn’s, etc. Rye is used for Rye Flakes, meal, and flour; barley, for flour and pearl barley. Buckwheat, throughout the United States, is used only when made into flour for buckwheat cakes.

For family use, cereals should be bought in small quantities, and kept in glass jars, tightly covered. Many cereal preparations are on the market for making breakfast mushes, put up in one and two pound packages, with directions for cooking. In nearly all cases, time allowed for cooking is not sufficient, unless dish containing cereal is brought in direct contact with fire, which is not the best way. Mushes should be cooked over hot water after the first five minutes; if a double boiler is not procurable, improvise one. Boiling water and salt should always be added to cereals, allowing one teaspoon salt to each cup of cereal,—boiled to soften cellulose and swell starch-grains, salted to give flavor. Indian meal and finely ground preparations should be mixed with cold water before adding boiling water, to prevent lumping.

### TABLE FOR COOKING CEREALS

Kind | Quantity | Water | Time
--- | --- | --- | ---
Steam-cooked and rolled oats, Rolled Avena, Quaker Rolled Oats, H-O, Old Grist Mill, Rolled Oats, | 1 cup | 1¾ cups | 30 minutes
87Steam-cooked and rolled wheats, Old Grist Mill, Rye Flakes, Pettijohn’s, etc. | 1 cup | 1¼ cups | 20 minutes
Rice (steamed) | 1 cup | 2¾–3¼ cups (according to age of rice) | 45–60 minutes
Indian meal | 1 cup | 3½ cups | 3 hours
Vitos | 1 cup | 4½ cups | 30 minutes
Wheatlet, Wheatena, Wheat Germ, Toasted Wheat, | 1 cup | 3¾ cups | 30 minutes
Oatmeal (coarse) | 1 cup | 4 cups | 3 hours
Hominy (fine) | 1 cup | 4 cups | 1 hour

### Oatmeal Mush with Apples

Core apples, leaving large cavities; pare, and cook until soft in syrup made by boiling sugar and water together, allowing one cup sugar to one and one-half cups water. Fill cavities with oatmeal mush; serve with sugar and cream. The syrup should be saved and re-used. Berries, sliced bananas, or sliced peaches, are acceptably served with any breakfast cereal.

### Cereal with Fruit

¾ cup Wheat Germ
¾ cup cold water
2 cups boiling water
1 teaspoon salt
½ lb. dates, stoned, and cut in pieces

Mix cereal, salt, and cold water; add to boiling water placed on front of range. Boil five minutes, steam in double boiler thirty minutes; stir in dates, and serve with cream. To serve for breakfast, or as a simple dessert.

### Fried Mushes

Mush left over from breakfast may be packed in greased, one pound baking-powder box, and covered, which will prevent crust from forming. The next morning remove from box, slice thinly, dip in flour, and sauté. Serve with maple syrup.

88

### Fried Corn Meal Mush, or Fried Hominy

Pack corn meal or hominy mush in greased, one pound baking-powder boxes, or small bread pan, cool, and cover. Cut in thin slices, and sauté; cook slowly, if preferred crisp and dry. Where mushes are cooked to fry, use less water in steaming.

### Boiled Rice

1 cup rice
2 quarts boiling water
1 tablespoon salt
French Chef

Pick over rice; add slowly to boiling, salted water, so as not to check boiling of water. Boil thirty minutes, or until soft, which may be determined by testing kernels. Old rice absorbs much more water than new rice, and takes longer for cooking. Drain in coarse strainer, and pour over one quart hot water; return to kettle in which it was cooked; cover, place on back of range, and let stand to dry off, when kernels are distinct. When stirring rice, always use a fork to avoid breaking kernels.

### Steamed Rice

1 cup rice
1 teaspoon salt
2¾ to 3¼ cups boiling water (according to age of rice)

Put salt and water in top of double boiler, place on range, and add gradually well-washed rice, stirring with a fork to prevent adhering to boiler. Boil five minutes, cover, place over under part double boiler, and steam forty-five minutes, or until kernels are soft; uncover, that steam may escape. When rice is steamed for a simple dessert, use one-half quantity of water given in recipe, and steam until rice has absorbed water; then add scalded milk for remaining liquid.

To wash rice. Put rice in strainer, place strainer over bowl nearly full of cold water; rub rice between hands, lift strainer from bowl, and change water. Repeat process three or four times, until water is quite clear.

89

### Rice with Cheese

Steam one cup rice, allowing one tablespoon salt; cover bottom of buttered pudding-dish with rice, dot over with three-fourths tablespoon butter, sprinkle with thin shavings mild cheese and a few grains cayenne; repeat until rice and one-fourth pound cheese are used. Add milk to half the depth of contents of dish, cover with buttered cracker crumbs, and bake until cheese melts.

### Rice à la Riston

Finely chop two thin slices bacon, add to one-half raw medium-sized cabbage, finely chopped; cover, and cook slowly thirty minutes. Add one-fourth cup rice, boiled, one-half teaspoon chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Moisten with one-half cup White Stock, and cook fifteen minutes.

### Turkish Pilaf I

Wash and drain one-half cup rice, cook in one tablespoon butter until brown, add one cup boiling water, and steam until water is absorbed. Add one and three-fourths cups hot stewed tomatoes, cook until rice is soft, and season with salt and pepper.

### Turkish Pilaf II

½ cup washed rice
¾ cup tomatoes, stewed and strained
1 cup Brown Stock, highly seasoned
3 tablespoons butter

Add tomato to stock, and heat to boiling-point; add rice, and steam until rice is soft; stir in butter with a fork, and keep uncovered that steam may escape. Serve in place of a vegetable, or as border for curried or fricasseed meat.

### Turkish Pilaf III

⅓ cup rice
3 tablespoons butter
½ cup canned tomatoes
½ cup cold cooked chicken cut in dice
White Stock highly seasoned
Salt and cayenne

Cook rice in boiling salted water, drain, and pour over hot water to thoroughly rinse. Heat omelet pan, add butter, 90and as soon as butter is melted add rice. Cook three minutes; then add tomatoes, chicken, and enough stock to moisten. Cook five minutes, and season highly with salt and cayenne. If not rich enough, add more butter.

### Russian Pilaf

Follow recipe for Turkish Pilaf III, substituting cold cooked lamb in place of chicken, and add a chicken’s liver sautéd in butter, then separated into small pieces.

### Rissoto Creole

3 tablespoons butter
1 cup rice
2¾ cups highly seasoned
Brown Stock
Canned pimentoes

Melt butter in hot frying-pan, add rice, and stir constantly until rice is well browned. Add stock heated to boiling-point, and cook in double boiler until soft. Turn on a serving dish, garnish with pimentoes cut in fancy shapes, and cover with

Creole Sauce. Cook two tablespoons chopped onion, two tablespoons chopped green pepper, one tablespoon chopped red pepper, or canned pimentoes, and four tablespoons chopped fresh mushrooms, with three tablespoons butter, five minutes. Add two tablespoons flour, one cup tomatoes, one truffle thinly sliced, one-fourth cup sherry wine, and salt to taste.

### Boiled Macaroni

¾ cup macaroni broken in inch pieces
2 quarts boiling water
1 tablespoon salt
½ cup cream

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water twenty minutes or until soft, drain in strainer, pour over it cold water to prevent pieces from adhering; add cream, reheat, and season with salt.

### Macaroni with White Sauce

¾ cup macaroni broken in inch pieces
2 quarts boiling water
1 tablespoon salt
1½ cups White Sauce

Cook as for Boiled Macaroni, and reheat in White Sauce.

White Sauce. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons 91flour with one-half teaspoon salt, and pour on slowly one and one-half cups scalded milk.

### Baked Macaroni

Put Macaroni with White Sauce in buttered baking dish, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

### Baked Macaroni with Cheese

Put a layer of boiled macaroni in buttered baking dish, sprinkle with grated cheese; repeat, pour over White Sauce, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

### Macaroni with Tomato Sauce

Reheat Boiled Macaroni in one and one-half cups of Tomato Sauce I, sprinkle with grated cheese, and serve; or prepare as Baked Macaroni, using Tomato in place of White Sauce.

### Macaroni à l’Italienne

¾ cup macaroni
2 quarts boiling salted water
½ onion
2 cloves
1½ cups Tomato Sauce II
½ cup grated cheese
2 tablespoons wine
½ tablespoon butter

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water, with butter and onion stuck with cloves; drain, remove onion, reheat in Tomato Sauce, add cheese and wine.

### Macaroni, Italian Style

1 cup macaroni
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1½ cups scalded milk
⅔ cup grated cheese
Salt and paprika
¼ cup finely chopped cold boiled ham

Break macaroni in one-inch pieces and cook in boiling salted water, drain, and reheat in sauce made of butter, flour, and milk, to which is added cheese. As soon as cheese is melted, season with salt and paprika, and turn on to a serving dish. Sprinkle with ham, and garnish with parsley.

92

### Macaroni à la Milanaise

Cook macaroni as for Macaroni à l’Italienne, reheat in Tomato Sauce II, add six sliced mushrooms, two slices cooked smoked beef tongue cut in strips, and one-half cup grated cheese.

### Spaghetti

Spaghetti may be cooked in any way in which macaroni is cooked, but is usually served with Tomato Sauce.

It is cooked in long strips rather than broken in pieces; to accomplish this, hold quantity to be cooked in the hand, and dip ends in boiling salted water; as spaghetti softens it will bend, and may be coiled under water.

### Knöfli

Beat two eggs slightly and add one-fourth cup milk. Add gradually to one cup flour mixed and sifted with one teaspoon salt. Place colander over a kettle of boiling water, turn in one-third mixture, and force through colander into water, using a potato masher. As soon as buttons come to top of water, remove with skimmer to hot vegetable dish, and sprinkle with salt and grated cheese; repeat until mixture is used. Let stand in oven five minutes, then serve.

### Ravioli

1½ cups flour
½ egg
Warm water
¼ cup cracker crumbs
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup chopped cooked spinach
1 egg
White stock
Salt
Pepper

Sift flour on a board, make depression in centre, drop in one-half egg, and moisten with warm water to a stiff dough. Knead until smooth, cover, and let stand ten minutes; then roll as thin as a sheet of paper, using a rolling-pin. Cut in strips as long as paste, and two and three-fourth inches wide, using a pastry jagger. Mix cracker crumbs, spinach, and egg; moisten with stock and season with salt and pepper. Put mixture by three-fourths teaspoon on lower half of strips of paste, two inches apart. Fold upper part of paste over 93lower part. Press edges together and between mixture with tips of thumbs, then cut apart, using pastry jagger. Cook in White Stock ten minutes, take up with skimmer, arrange a layer on hot serving dish, sprinkle generously with grated Parmesan cheese, cover with Tomato Sauce; repeat twice and serve at once.

### Tomato Sauce

⅓ cup butter
1 onion, finely chopped
¾ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
1 small can condensed tomato
⅔ lb. lean beef

Cook first four ingredients eight minutes. Add tomato, 1 pint of water, and beef cut in small pieces, and cook one and one-half hours. Remove meat before serving. Ravioli is a national Italian dish, and the cheese and condensed tomato may be best bought of an Italian grocer.

94

## CHAPTER VII
EGGS

COMPOSITION
Proteid, 14.9%
Fat, 10.6%
Mineral matter, 1%
Water, 73.5%

Eggs, like milk, form a typical food, inasmuch as they contain all the elements, in the right proportion, necessary for the support of the body. Their highly concentrated, nutritive value renders it necessary to use them in combination with other foods rich in starch (bread, potatoes, etc.). In order that the stomach may have enough to act upon, a certain amount of bulk must be furnished.

A pound of eggs (nine) is equivalent in nutritive value to a pound of beef. From this it may be seen that eggs, at even twenty-five cents per dozen, should not be freely used by the strict economist. Eggs being rich in proteid serve as a valuable substitute for meat. In most families, their use in the making of cake, custard, puddings, etc., renders them almost indispensable. It is surprising how many intelligent women, who look well to the affairs of the kitchen, are satisfied to use what are termed “cooking eggs”; this shows poor judgment from an economical standpoint. Strictly fresh eggs should always be used if obtainable. An egg after the first twenty-four hours steadily deteriorates. If exposed to air, owing to the porous structure of the shell, there is an evaporation of water, air rushes in, and decomposition takes place.

White of egg contains albumen in its purest form. Albumen coagulates at a temperature of from 134° to 160° F. Herein lies the importance of cooking eggs at a low temperature, thus rendering them easy of digestion. Eggs cooked 95in boiling water are tough and horny, difficult of digestion, and should never be served.

When eggs come from the market, they should be washed, and put away in a cold place.

Ways of Determining Freshness of Eggs. I. Hold in front of candle flame in dark room, and the centre should look clear.

II. Place in basin of cold water, and they should sink.

III. Place large end to the cheek, and a warmth should be felt.

Ways of Keeping Eggs. I. Pack in sawdust, small end down.

II. Keep in lime water.

III. From July to September a large number of eggs are packed, small ends down, in cases having compartments, one for each egg, and kept in cold storage. Eggs are often kept in cold storage six months, and then sold as cooking eggs.

### Boiled Eggs

Have ready a saucepan containing boiling water. Carefully put in with a spoon the number of eggs desired, covering them with water. Remove saucepan to back of range, where water will not boil. Cook from six to eight minutes if liked “soft-boiled,” forty to forty-five if liked “hard-boiled.” Eggs may be cooked by placing in cold water and allowing water to heat gradually until the boiling-point is reached, when they will be “soft-boiled.” In using hard-boiled eggs for making other dishes, when taken from the hot water they should be plunged into cold water to prevent, if possible, discoloration of yolks.

Eggs perfectly cooked should be placed and kept in water at a uniform temperature of 175° F.

### Dropped Eggs (Poached)

Have ready a shallow pan two-thirds full of boiling salted water, allowing one-half tablespoon salt to one quart of water. Put two or three buttered muffin rings in the water. Break each egg separately into a cup, and carefully slip into a muffin ring. The water should cover the eggs. When 96there is a film over the top, and the white is firm, carefully remove with a buttered skimmer to circular pieces of buttered toast, and let each person season his own egg with butter, salt, and pepper. If cooked for an invalid, garnish with four toast points and a bit of parsley. An egg-poacher may be used instead of muffin rings.

### Eggs à la Finnoise

Dropped Eggs, served with Tomato Sauce I.

### Poached Eggs à la Reine

Cover circular pieces of toasted bread with sliced fresh mushrooms sautéd in butter and moistened with cream. Poach eggs and arrange on mushrooms. Pour over all white sauce to which grated Parmesan cheese has been added. Sprinkle with grated cheese and put in oven to brown. Garnish with canned pimentoes cut in fancy shapes.

### Eggs à la Suisse

4 eggs
½ cup cream
1 tablespoon butter
Salt
Pepper
Cayenne
2 tablespoons grated cheese

Heat a small omelet pan, put in butter, and when melted, add cream. Slip in the eggs one at a time, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a few grains of cayenne. When whites are nearly firm, sprinkle with cheese. Finish cooking, and serve on buttered toast. Strain cream over the toast.

### Eggs Susette

Wash and bake six large potatoes, cut slice from top of each, scoop out inside, and mash. To three cups mashed potato add six tablespoons finely chopped ham, two tablespoons finely chopped parsley, whites of two eggs well beaten, three tablespoons butter, four tablespoons cream, and salt and pepper. Line potato shells with mixture, place in each cavity a poached egg, cover with potato mixture, and bake until browned. Care must be taken to have eggs delicately parched.

97

### Baked or Shirred Eggs

Butter an egg-shirrer. Cover bottom and sides with fine cracker crumbs. Break an egg into a cup, and carefully slip into shirrer. Cover with seasoned buttered crumbs, and bake in moderate oven until white is firm and crumbs brown. The shirrers should be placed on a tin plate, that they may be easily removed from the oven.

Eggs may be baked in small tomatoes. Cut a slice from stem end of tomato, scoop out the pulp, slip in an egg, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake.

### Eggs à la Tripe

Serve dropped eggs on Lobster Croquettes (see p. 558) shaped in flat round cakes one-half inch thick. Garnish with lobster claws and parsley.

### Eggs à la Benedict

Split and toast English muffins. Sauté circular pieces of cold boiled ham, place these over the halves of muffins, arrange on each a dropped egg, and pour around Hollandaise Sauce II (see p. 274), diluted with cream to make of such consistency to pour easily.

### Eggs à la Lee

Cover circular pieces of toasted bread with thin slices cold boiled ham. Arrange on each a dropped egg, and pour around.

Mushroom Purée. Clean one-fourth pound mushrooms, break caps in pieces, and sauté five minutes in one tablespoon butter. Add one cup chicken stock and simmer five minutes. Rub through a sieve and thicken with one tablespoon each butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper.

### Eggs à la Commodore

Cut slices of bread in circular pieces and sauté in butter. Remove a portion of centre, leaving a rim one-fourth inch wide. Spread cavity thus made with pâté de foie gras 98purée, place a poached egg in each and pour over a rich brown or Béchamel sauce to which is added a few drops vinegar. Garnish with chopped truffles.

### Eggs, Waldorf Style

Arrange poached eggs on circular pieces of buttered toast, surround with Brown Mushroom Sauce (see p. 268), and place a broiled mushroom cap on each egg.

### Poached Eggs with Sauce Bearnaise

Poach six eggs, arrange in serving dish, cover eggs alternately with red and yellow sauce, and garnish with parsley.

Sauce Bearnaise. Beat yolks three eggs slightly, add three tablespoons olive oil, two tablespoons hot water, three-fourths tablespoon tarragon vinegar, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens. Color one-half the sauce with tomato purée (tomatoes drained from their liquor, stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to a thick pulp).

### Scrambled Eggs

5 eggs
½ cup milk
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter

Beat eggs slightly with silver fork; add salt, pepper, and milk. Heat omelet pan, put in butter, and when melted, turn in the mixture. Cook until of creamy consistency, stirring and scraping from bottom of the pan.

### Scrambled Eggs with Tomato Sauce

6 eggs
1¾ cups tomatoes
2 teaspoons sugar
4 tablespoons butter
1 slice onion
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Simmer tomatoes and sugar five minutes; fry butter and onion three minutes; remove onion, and add tomatoes, seasonings, and eggs slightly beaten. Cook same as Scrambled Eggs. Serve with entire wheat bread or brown bread toast.

99

### Scrambled Eggs with Anchovy Toast

Spread thin slices of buttered toast with Anchovy Paste. Arrange on platter, and cover with scrambled eggs.

### Eggs à la Buckingham

Make five slices milk toast, and arrange on platter. Use recipe for Scrambled Eggs, having the eggs slightly underdone. Pour eggs over toast, sprinkle with four tablespoons grated mild cheese. Put in oven to melt cheese, and finish cooking eggs.

### Eggs à la Turk

Prepare Scrambled Eggs, and pour over six slices of toasted bread. Put one tablespoon tomato purée on each piece, and in the centre of purée one-half tablespoon chickens’ livers sautéd in bacon fat.

### Eggs à la Livingstone

4 eggs
½ cup stewed and strained tomatoes
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon paprika
2 tablespoons butter
Pâté de foie gras
Finely chopped truffles

Beat eggs slightly, and add tomatoes, salt, and paprika. Melt butter in an omelet pan, add seasoned eggs, and cook same as Scrambled Eggs. Spread slices of toasted bread with pâté de foie gras. Pour over the eggs, and sprinkle with truffles.

### Scrambled Eggs, Country Style

Heat omelet pan, put in two tablespoons butter, and when melted turn in four unbeaten eggs. Cook until white is partially set, then stir until cooking is completed, when whites will be thoroughly set. Season with salt and pepper.

### Buttered Eggs

Heat omelet pan. Put in one tablespoon butter; when melted, slip in an egg, and cook until the white is firm. Turn it over once while cooking. Add more butter as needed, using just enough to keep egg from sticking.

100

### Buttered Eggs with Tomatoes

Cut tomatoes in one-third inch slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. Serve a buttered egg on each slice of tomato.

### Planked Eggs

Finely chop cold cooked corned beef or corned tongue; there should be two-thirds cup. Add an equal quantity of fine bread crumbs, moisten with cream and season with salt and pepper. Spread mixture on plank, and make nests and border of duchess potatoes, using rose tube. Put a buttered or poached egg in each nest and put in oven to brown potato. Garnish with tomatoes cut in halves and broiled, and parsley. Eggs may be sprinkled with buttered cracker crumbs, just before sending to oven, if preferred.

### Fried Eggs

Fried eggs are cooked as Buttered Eggs, without being turned. In this case the fat is taken by spoonfuls and poured over the eggs. Lard, pork, ham, or bacon fat are usually employed,—a considerable amount being used.

### Eggs à la Goldenrod

3 “hard-boiled” eggs
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon flour
1 cup milk
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
5 slices toast
Parsley

Make a thin white sauce with butter, flour, milk, and seasonings. Separate yolks from whites of eggs. Chop whites finely, and add them to the sauce. Cut four slices of toast in halves lengthwise. Arrange on platter, and pour over the sauce. Force the yolks through a potato ricer or strainer, sprinkling over the top. Garnish with parsley and remaining toast, cut in points.

### Eggs au Gratin

Arrange Dropped Eggs on a shallow buttered dish. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese. Pour over eggs one pint Yellow Béchamel Sauce. Cover with stale bread 101crumbs, and sprinkle with grated cheese. Brown in oven. Tomato or White Sauce may be used.

### Eggs in Batter

1 egg
1½ tablespoons thick cream
2 tablespoons fine stale bread crumbs
¼ teaspoon salt

Mix cream, bread crumbs, and salt. Put one-half tablespoon of mixture in egg-shirrer. Slip in egg, and cover with remaining mixture. Bake six minutes in moderate oven.

### Curried Eggs I

3 “hard-boiled” eggs
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon curry powder
⅛ teaspoon pepper
1 cup hot milk

Melt butter, add flour and seasonings, and gradually hot milk. Cut eggs in eighths lengthwise, and reheat in sauce.

### Curried Eggs II

4 “hard-boiled” eggs
2 tablespoons butter
½ tablespoon finely chopped onion
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon curry powder
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon paprika
1⅓ cups scalded milk
½ cup cooked rice

Chop whites of eggs and add to sauce made of butter, flour, seasonings, and milk, then add rice; heat to boiling-point, fill puff paste cases and sprinkle with yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve.

### Scalloped Eggs

3 “hard-boiled” eggs
1 pint White Sauce I
¾ cup chopped cold meat
¾ cup buttered cracker crumbs

Chop eggs finely. Sprinkle bottom of a buttered baking dish with crumbs, cover with one-half the eggs, eggs with sauce, and sauce with meat; repeat. Cover with remaining crumbs. Place in oven on centre grate, and bake until crumbs are brown. Ham is the best meat to use for this dish. Chicken, veal, or fish may be used.

102

### Stuffed Eggs

Cut four “hard-boiled” eggs in halves crosswise; remove yolks, mash, and add two tablespoons grated cheese, one teaspoon vinegar, one-fourth teaspoon mustard, and salt and cayenne to taste. Add enough melted butter to make mixture of the right consistency to shape. Make in balls size of original yolks, and refill whites. Arrange on a serving dish, pour around one cup White Sauce, cover, and reheat.

### Stuffed Eggs in a Nest

Cut “hard-boiled” eggs in halves lengthwise. Remove yolks, and put whites aside in pairs. Mash yolks, and add half the amount of devilled ham and enough melted butter to make of consistency to shape. Make in balls size of original yolks, and refill whites. Form remainder of mixture into a nest. Arrange eggs in the nest, and pour over one cup White Sauce I. Sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

### Eggs à la Sidney

Arrange “hard-boiled” eggs, cut in thirds lengthwise, on pieces of toasted bread. Pour over eggs Soubise Sauce.

### Eggs Huntington

4 “hard-boiled” eggs
1 tablespoon butter
1½ tablespoons flour
⅓ cup white stock
⅓ cup milk
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Grated cheese
¾ cup buttered cracker crumbs

Make a sauce of the butter, flour, stock, and milk; add eggs finely chopped and salt and cayenne. Fill buttered ramequin dishes with mixture, sprinkle with grated cheese, cover with cracker crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven until crumbs are brown.

### Egg Farci I

Cut “hard-boiled” eggs in halves, crosswise. Remove yolks, and put whites aside in pairs. Mash yolks, and add 103equal amount of cold cooked chicken or veal, finely chopped. Moisten with melted butter or Mayonnaise. Season to taste with salt, pepper, lemon juice, mustard, and cayenne. Shape and refill whites.

### Egg Farci II

Clean and chop two chickens’ livers, sprinkle with onion juice, and sauté in butter. Add the yolks of four “hard-boiled” eggs rubbed through a sieve, one teaspoon chopped parsley, and salt, pepper, and Tabasco Sauce to taste. Refill whites of eggs with mixture, cover with grated cheese, and bake until cheese melts. Serve in toast rings and pour around Tomato Purée (see p. 98).

### Lucanian Eggs

5 “hard-boiled” eggs
1 cup cooked macaroni
½ cup grated cheese
Essence Anchovy
1¾ cups White Sauce I
Salt and paprika
Onion juice
¾ cup buttered crumbs

Cut eggs in eighths lengthwise, add macaroni, white sauce, and seasonings. Arrange in buttered baking dish, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

### Egg Soufflé

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
1 cup cream
4 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Cream the butter, add flour, and pour on gradually scalded milk and cream. Cook in double boiler five minutes, and add yolks of eggs, beaten until thick and lemon-colored. Remove from fire, add seasonings, and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Turn into a buttered dish, or buttered individual moulds, set in pan of hot water, and bake in a slow oven until firm. Egg Soufflé may be served with White Sauce I, highly seasoned with celery salt, paprika, and onion juice.

104

### Egg Timbales

1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon flour
⅔ cup milk
3 eggs
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Few grains celery salt
Few grains cayenne

Make a sauce of the butter, flour, and milk; add yolks beaten until thick and lemon-colored, then add seasonings. Beat whites of eggs until stiff and dry, and cut and fold into first mixture. Turn into buttered moulds, set in pan of hot water, and bake in a slow oven until firm. Serve with Tomato Cream Sauce (see page 271).

### Egg Croquettes

6 eggs
2 tablespoons butter
1 slice onion
⅓ cup flour
1 cup white stock
Salt
Pepper
Yolks 3 eggs
Stale bread crumbs
Grated cheese

Poach eggs and dry on a towel. Cook butter with onion three minutes. Add flour and, gradually, stock. Season with salt and pepper; then add yolks of eggs slightly beaten. Cook one minute, and cool. Cover eggs with mixture, roll in bread crumbs and cheese, using equal parts, dip in egg, again roll in crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. These may be served with a thin sauce, using equal parts of white stock and cream, and seasoning with grated cheese, salt, and paprika.

### Eggs à la Juliette

Decorate egg-shaped individual moulds with truffles, and cold boiled tongue cut in fancy shapes, and pistachio nuts blanched and split. Line mould with aspic jelly, drop in a poached egg yolk, cover with aspic jelly, let stand until firm, and turn on a thin oval slice of cold boiled tongue.

### Eggs à la Parisienne

Butter small timbale moulds, sprinkle with finely chopped truffles, parsley, and cooked beets. Break eggs, and slip one into each mould, sprinkle with salt and pepper, set in pan of hot water, and cook until egg is firm. Remove from moulds on octagon slices of toast, and pour around Tomato Sauce II (see p. 270).

Planked Eggs.—Page 100.

Plain Omelet.—Page 105.

Utensils and Materials for the starting of Brown Soup Stock.—Page 113.

105

### Eggs Mornay

Break egg and slip into buttered egg-shirrers, allowing one or two eggs to each shirrer, according to size. Cover with White Sauce II (see p. 266), seasoned with one-third cup grated cheese, paprika, and yolks two eggs; cover with grated cheese and bake until firm.

### Omelets

For omelets select large eggs, allowing one egg for each person, and one tablespoon liquid for each egg. Keep an omelet pan especially for omelets, and see that it is kept clean and smooth. A frying-pan may be used in place of omelet pan.

### Plain Omelet

4 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
4 tablespoons hot water
1 tablespoon butter
1½ cups Thin White Sauce

Separate yolks from whites. Beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored; add salt, pepper, and hot water. Beat whites until stiff and dry, cutting and folding them into first mixture until they have taken up mixture. Heat omelet pan, and butter sides and bottom. Turn in mixture, spread evenly, place on range where it will cook slowly, occasionally turning the pan that omelet may brown evenly. When well “puffed” and delicately browned underneath, place pan on centre grate of oven to finish cooking the top. The omelet is cooked if it is firm to the touch when pressed by the finger. If it clings to the finger like the beaten white of egg, it needs longer cooking. Fold, and turn on hot platter, and pour around one and one-half cups Thin White Sauce.

Milk is sometimes used in place of hot water, but hot water makes a more tender omelet. A few grains baking powder are used by some cooks to hold up an omelet.

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### To Fold and Turn an Omelet

Hold an omelet pan by handle with the left hand. With a case knife make two one-half inch incisions opposite each other at right angles to handle. Place knife under the part of omelet nearest handle, tip pan to nearly a vertical position; by carefully coaxing the omelet with knife, it will fold and turn without breaking.

### Omelet with Meat or Vegetables

Mix and cook Plain Omelet. Fold in remnants of finely chopped cooked chicken, veal, or ham. Remnants of fish may be flaked and added to White Sauce; or cooked peas, asparagus, or cauliflower may be added.

### Oyster Omelet

Mix and cook Plain Omelet. Fold in one pint oysters, parboiled, drained from their liquor, and cut in halves. Turn on platter, and pour around Thin White Sauce.

### Orange Omelet

3 eggs
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
Few grains salt
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 oranges
½ tablespoon butter
2½ tablespoons orange juice

Follow directions for Plain Omelet. Remove skin from oranges and cut in slices, lengthwise. Fold in one-third of the slices of orange, well sprinkled with powdered sugar; put remaining slices around omelet, and sprinkle with sugar.

### Jelly Omelet

Mix and cook Plain Omelet, omitting pepper and one-half the salt, and adding one tablespoon sugar. Spread before folding with jam, jelly, or marmalade. Fold, turn, and sprinkle with sugar.

### Bread Omelet

4 eggs
½ cup milk
½ cup stale bread crumbs
¾ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon butter

Soak bread crumbs fifteen minutes in milk, add beaten yolks and seasonings, fold in whites. Cook and serve as Plain Omelet.

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### French Omelet

4 eggs
4 tablespoons milk
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter

Beat eggs slightly, just enough to blend yolks and whites, add the milk and seasonings. Put butter in hot omelet pan; when melted, turn in the mixture; as it cooks, prick and pick up with a fork until the whole is of creamy consistency. Place on hotter part of range that it may brown quickly underneath. Fold, and turn on hot platter.

### Omelet with Croûtons

1 cup bread cut in ⅓ inch cubes
Butter
5 eggs
4 tablespoons cream
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Fry cubes of bread in butter until well browned and crisp. Beat eggs slightly, add cream, salt, pepper, and croûtons. Put two tablespoons butter in hot omelet pan, and as soon as melted and slightly browned turn in mixture and cook same as French Omelet.

### Eggs with Spinach à la Martin

Cover the centre of a platter with finely chopped and seasoned cooked spinach. Beat three eggs slightly, add three tablespoons hot water, one-third teaspoon salt, one tablespoon, each, red and green pepper cut in strips, and one tablespoon cooked ham cut in very small pieces. Heat omelet pan, put in one and one-half tablespoons olive oil, and as soon as heated pour in mixture. Cook same as French Omelet and turn on to spinach. Garnish with parsley.

### Spanish Omelet

Mix and cook a French Omelet. Serve with Tomato Sauce in the centre and around omelet.

Tomato Sauce. Cook two tablespoons of butter with one tablespoon of finely chopped onion, until yellow. Add one and three-fourths cups tomatoes, and cook until moisture has nearly evaporated. Add one tablespoon sliced mushrooms, one tablespoon capers, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few 108grains cayenne. This is improved by a small piece of red or green pepper, finely chopped, cooked with butter and onion.

### Rich Omelet

2½ tablespoons flour
¾ teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
3 eggs
3 tablespoons butter
Mrs. E. A. Dwinell

Mix salt and flour, and add gradually milk. Beat eggs until thick and lemon-colored, then add to first mixture. Heat iron frying-pan and put in two-thirds of the butter; when butter is melted, pour in mixture. As it cooks, lift with a griddle-cake turner so that uncooked part may run underneath; add remaining butter as needed, and continue lifting the cooked part until it is firm throughout. Place on hotter part of range to brown; roll, and turn on hot platter.

### Omelette Robespierre

3 eggs
3 tablespoons hot water
1 tablespoon powdered sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon vanilla

Beat eggs slightly, and add remaining ingredients. Put one and one-half tablespoons butter in a hot omelet pan, turn in mixture and cook same as French Omelet. Fold, turn on a hot platter, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and score with a hot poker.

### Almond Omelet, Caramel Sauce

3 eggs
3 tablespoons caramel sauce
Few grains salt
½ teaspoon vanilla

Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add caramel, salt, and vanilla, and cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Put three-fourths tablespoon butter in a hot omelet pan, cover bottom of pan with shredded almonds, turn in mixture, and cook and fold same as Plain Omelet. Pour around

Caramel Sauce. Pour one cup sugar in omelet pan, and stir constantly, over hot part of range, until melted to a light brown syrup. Add three-fourths cup hot water, and let simmer ten minutes.

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## CHAPTER VIII
SOUPS

It cannot be denied that the French excel all nations in the excellence of their cuisine, and to their soups and sauces belong the greatest praise. It would be well to follow their example, and it is the duty of every housekeeper to learn the art of soup making. How may a hearty dinner be better begun than with a thin soup? The hot liquid, taken into an empty stomach, is easily assimilated, acts as a stimulant rather than a nutrient (as is the popular opinion), and prepares the way for the meal which is to follow. The cream soups and purées are so nutritious that, with bread and butter, they furnish a satisfactory meal.

Soups are divided into two great classes: soups with stock; soups without stock.

Soups with stock have, for their basis, beef, veal, mutton, fish, poultry, or game, separately or in combination. They are classified as:—

Bouillon, made from lean beef, delicately seasoned, and usually cleared. Exception,—clam bouillon.

Brown Soup Stock, made from beef (two-thirds lean meat, and remainder bone and fat), highly seasoned with vegetables, spices, and sweet herbs.

White Soup Stock, made from chicken or veal, with delicate seasonings.

Consommé, usually made from two or three kinds of meat (beef, veal, and fowl being employed), highly seasoned with vegetables, spices, and sweet herbs. Always served clear.

Lamb Stock, delicately seasoned, is served as mutton broth.

Soups without stock are classified as:—

Cream Soups, made of vegetables or fish, with milk, and a small amount of cream and seasonings. Always thickened.

Purées, made from vegetables or fish, forced through 110a strainer, and retained in soup, milk, and seasonings. Generally thicker than cream soup. Sometimes White Stock is added.

Bisques, generally made from shell-fish, milk, and seasonings, and served with fish dice; made similarly to purées. They may be made of meat, game, or vegetables, with small dice of the same.

Various names have been given to soups, according to their flavorings, chief ingredients, the people who use them, etc. To the Scotch belongs Scotch Broth; to the French, Pot-au-feu; to the Indo, Mulligatawny; and to the Spanish, Olla Podrida.

### SOUP MAKING

The art of soup making is more easily mastered than at first appears. The young housekeeper is startled at the amazingly large number of ingredients the recipe calls for, and often is discouraged. One may, with but little expense, keep at hand what is essential for the making of a good soup. Winter vegetables—turnips, carrots, celery, and onions—may be bought in large or small quantities. The outer stalks of celery, often not suitable for serving, should be saved for soups. At seasons when celery is a luxury, the tips and roots should be saved and dried. Sweet herbs, including thyme, savory, and marjoram, are dried and put up in packages, retailing from five to ten cents. Bay leaves, which should be used sparingly, may be obtained at first-class grocers’ or druggists’; seeming never to lose strength, they may be kept indefinitely. Spices, including whole cloves, allspice berries, peppercorns, and stick cinnamon, should be kept on hand. These seasonings, with the addition of salt, pepper, and parsley, are the essential flavorings for stock soups. Flour, corn-starch, arrowroot, fine tapioca, sago, pearl barley, rice, bread, or eggs are added to give consistency and nourishment.

In small families, where there are few left-overs, fresh meat must be bought for the making of soup stock, as a good soup cannot be made from a small amount of poor material. On the other hand, large families need seldom 111buy fresh meat, provided all left-overs are properly cared for. The soup kettle should receive small pieces of beef (roasted, broiled, or stewed), veal, carcasses of fowl or chicken, chop bones, bones left from lamb roast, and all trimmings and bones, which a careful housewife should see are sent from the market with her order. Avoid the use of smoked or corned meats, or large pieces of raw mutton or lamb surrounded by fat, on account of the strong flavor so disagreeable to many. A small piece of bacon or lean ham is sometimes cooked with vegetables for flavor.

Beef ranks first as regards utility and economy in soup making. It should be cut from the fore or hind shin (which cuts contain marrow-bone), the middle cuts being most desirable. If the lower part of shin is used, the soup, although rich in gelatin, lacks flavor, unless a cheap piece of lean meat is used with it, which frequently is done. It must be remembered that meat, bone, and fat in the right proportions are all necessary; allow two-thirds lean meat, the remaining one-third bone and fat. From the meat the soluble juices, salts, extractives (which give color and flavor), and a small quantity of gelatin are extracted; from the bone, gelatin (which gives the stock when cold a jelly-like consistency) and mineral matter. Gelatin is also obtained from cartilage, skin, tendons, and ligaments. Some of the fat is absorbed; the remainder rises to the top and should be removed.

Soup stock making is rendered easier by use of proper utensils. Sharp meat knives, hardwood board, two purée strainers having meshes of different size, and a soup digester (a porcelain-lined iron pot, having tight-fitting cover, with valve in the top), or covered granite kettle, are essentials. An iron kettle, which formerly constituted one of the furnishings of a range, may be used if perfectly smooth. A saw, cleaver, and scales, although not necessary, are useful, and lighten labor.

When meat comes from market, remove from paper and put in cool place. When ready to start stock, if scales are at hand, weigh meat and bone to see if correct proportions have been sent. Wipe meat with clean cheese-cloth wrung out of cold water. Cut lean meat in one-inch cubes; by so 112doing, a large amount of surface is exposed to the water, and juices are more easily drawn out. Heat frying-pan hissing hot; remove marrow from marrow-bone, and use enough to brown one-third of the lean meat, stirring constantly, that all parts of surface may be seared, thus preventing escape of juices,—sacrificing a certain amount of goodness in the stock to give additional color and flavor, which is obtained by caramelization. Put fat, bone, and remaining lean meat in soup kettle; cover with cold water, allowing one pint to each pound of meat, bone, and fat. Let stand one hour, that cold water may draw out juices from meat. Add browned meat, taking water from soup kettle to rinse out frying-pan, that none of the coloring may be lost. Heat gradually to boiling-point, and cook six or seven hours at low temperature. A scum will rise on the top, which contains coagulated albuminous juices; these give to soup its chief nutritive value; many, however, prefer a clear soup, and have them removed. If allowed to remain, when straining, a large part will pass through strainer. Vegetables, spices, and salt should be added the last hour of cooking. Strain and cool quickly; by so doing, stock is less apt to ferment. A knuckle of veal is often used for making white soup stock. Fowl should be used for stock in preference to chicken, as it is cheaper, and contains a larger amount of nutriment. A cake of fat forms on stock when cold, which excludes air, and should not be removed until stock is used. To remove fat, run a knife around edge of bowl and carefully remove the same. A small quantity will remain, which should be removed by passing a cloth wrung out of hot water around edge and over top of stock. This fat should be clarified and used for drippings. If time cannot be allowed for stock to cool before using, take off as much fat as possible with a spoon, and remove the remainder by passing tissue or any absorbent paper over the surface.

#### How to Clear Soup Stock

Whites of eggs slightly beaten, or raw, lean beef finely chopped, are employed for clearing soup stock. The albumen 113found in each effects the clearing by drawing to itself some of the juices which have been extracted from the meat, and by action of heat have been coagulated. Some rise to the top and form a scum, others are precipitated.

Remove fat from stock, and put quantity to be cleared in stewpan, allowing white and shell of one egg to each quart of stock. Beat egg slightly, break shell in small pieces and add to stock. Place on front of range, and stir constantly until boiling-point is reached; boil two minutes. Set back where it may simmer twenty minutes; remove scum, and strain through double thickness of cheese-cloth placed over a fine strainer. If stock to be cleared is not sufficiently seasoned, additional seasoning must be added as soon as stock has lost its jelly-like consistency; not after clearing is effected. Many think the flavor obtained from a few shavings of lemon rind an agreeable addition.

#### How to Bind Soups

Cream soups and purées, if allowed to stand, separate, unless bound together. To bind a soup, melt butter, and when bubbling add an equal quantity of flour; when well mixed add to boiling soup, stirring constantly. If recipe calls for more flour than butter, or soup is one that should be made in double boiler, add gradually a portion of hot mixture to butter and flour until of such consistency that it may be poured into the mixture remaining in double boiler.

### SOUPS WITH MEAT STOCK

#### Brown Soup Stock

6 lbs. shin of beef
3 quarts cold water
½ teaspoon peppercorns
6 cloves
½ bay leaf
3 sprigs thyme
1 sprig marjoram
2 sprigs parsley
Carrot | ½ cup each, cut in dice
Turnip
Onion
Celery
1 tablespoon salt

Wipe beef, and cut the lean meat in inch cubes. Brown one-third of meat in hot frying-pan in marrow from a marrow-bone. Put remaining two-thirds with bone and fat in 114soup kettle, add water, and let stand for thirty minutes. Place on back of range, add browned meat, and heat gradually to boiling-point. As scum rises it should be removed. Cover, and cook slowly six hours, keeping below boiling-point during cooking. Add vegetables and seasonings, cook one and one-half hours, strain, and cool as quickly as possible.

#### Bouillon

5 lbs. lean beef from middle of round
2 lbs. marrow-bone
3 quarts cold water
1 teaspoon peppercorns
1 tablespoon salt
Carrot | ⅓ cup each, cut in dice
Turnip
Onion
Celery

Wipe, and cut meat in inch cubes. Put two-thirds of meat in soup kettle, and soak in water thirty minutes. Brown remainder in hot frying-pan with marrow from marrow-bone. Put browned meat and bone in kettle. Heat to boiling-point; skim thoroughly, and cook at temperature below boiling-point five hours. Add seasonings and vegetables, cook one hour, strain, and cool. Remove fat, and clear. Serve in bouillon cups.

#### Tomato Bouillon with Oysters

1 can tomatoes
1½ quarts bouillon
1 tablespoon chopped onion
½ bay leaf
6 cloves
½ teaspoon celery seed
½ teaspoon peppercorns
1 pint oysters

Mix all ingredients except oysters, and boil twenty minutes. Strain, cool, and clear. Add parboiled oysters, and serve in bouillon cups with small croûtons.

#### Iced Bouillon

Flavor bouillon with sherry or Madeira wine, and serve cold.

#### Macaroni Soup

1 quart Brown Soup Stock
¼ cup macaroni, broken in half-inch pieces
Salt
Pepper

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, and add to stock heated to boiling-point. Season with salt 115and pepper. Spaghetti or other Italian pastas may be substituted for macaroni.

#### Tomato Soup with Stock

1 quart Brown Soup Stock
1 can tomatoes
½ teaspoon peppercorns
1 small bay leaf
3 cloves
3 sprigs thyme
4 tablespoons butter
⅓ cup flour
Onion | ¼ cup each, cut in dice
Carrot
Celery
Raw ham
Salt
Pepper

Cook onion, carrot, celery, and ham in butter five minutes, add flour, peppercorns, bay leaf, cloves, and thyme, and cook three minutes; then add tomatoes, cover, and cook slowly one hour. When cooked in oven it requires less watching. Rub through a strainer, add hot stock, and season with salt and pepper.

#### Turkish Soup

5 cups Brown Soup Stock
¼ cup rice
1½ cups stewed and strained tomatoes
Bit of bay leaf
2 slices onion
10 peppercorns
¼ teaspoon celery salt
2 tablespoons butter
1½ tablespoons flour

Cook rice in Brown Stock until soft. Cook bay leaf, onion, peppercorns, and celery salt with tomatoes thirty minutes. Combine mixtures, rub through sieve, and bind with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper if needed.

#### Creole Soup

1 quart Brown Soup Stock
1 pint tomatoes
3 tablespoons chopped green peppers
2 tablespoons chopped onion
¼ cup butter
⅓ cup flour
Salt
Pepper
Cayenne
2 tablespoons grated horseradish
1 teaspoon vinegar
¼ cup macaroni rings

Cook pepper and onion in butter five minutes. Add flour, stock, and tomatoes, and simmer fifteen minutes. Strain, 116rub through sieve, and season highly with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Just before serving add horseradish, vinegar, and macaroni previously cooked and cut in rings.

#### Julienne Soup

To one quart clear Brown Soup Stock, add one-fourth cup each carrot and turnip, cut in thin strips one and one-half inches long, previously cooked in boiling salted water, and two tablespoons, each, cooked peas and string beans. Heat to boiling-point.

#### Dinner Soup

3½ lbs. lean beef from round
2 lbs. marrow-bone
2 qts. cold water
1 can tomatoes
1 teaspoon peppercorns
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon lean raw ham, finely chopped
2 tablespoons butter
Carrot | ⅓ cup, each
Turnip
Onion | cut in small pieces
Celery
1 sprig parsley
½ bay leaf

Wipe meat and cut in inch cubes. Put one-half in kettle with marrow-bone, water, and tomatoes. Brown remaining half in hot frying-pan with some marrow from bone, then turn into kettle. Heat slowly to boiling-point, and cook at temperature just below boiling-point five hours.

Cook ham and vegetables with butter five minutes, then add to soup with peppercorns, salt, parsley, and bay leaf. Cook one and one-half hours, strain, cool quickly, remove fat, and clear.

#### Bortchock Soup

6 lbs. shin of beef
3 qts. cold water
1 cup carrot cubes
½ cup sliced onion
6 cloves
1 allspice berry
2 sprigs parsley
2 stalks celery
1 beet finely cut
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon peppercorns
2 tablespoons butter

Prepare and cook beef same as for Bouillon. Cook vegetables in butter five minutes; then add to soup with remaining seasonings. Cook one and one-half hours, strain, cool quickly, remove fat, and clear. When ready 117to clear, add one cup finely chopped raw beet and one-fourth cup vinegar. Select red beets for this soup, and serve as soon as possible after clearing, otherwise it will lose its bright red color, which makes the dish especially appropriate for an American Beauty Dinner.

#### Ox-tail Soup

1 small ox-tail
6 cups Brown Stock
Carrot | ½ cup each, cut in fancy shapes
Turnip
Onion | ½ cup each, cut in small pieces
Celery
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
¼ cup Madeira wine
1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
1 teaspoon lemon juice

Cut ox-tail in small pieces, wash, drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry in butter ten minutes. Add to Brown Stock, and simmer one hour. Then add vegetables, which have been parboiled twenty minutes; simmer until vegetables are soft, add salt, cayenne, wine, Worcestershire Sauce, and lemon juice.

#### Scotch Soup

3 lbs. mutton from fore-quarter
2 qts. cold water
½ tablespoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 slices turnip
½ onion
¼ cup flour
Carrot | ¼ cup, each, cut in small cubes
Turnip
2 tablespoons pearl barley

Wipe meat, remove skin and fat, and cut meat in small pieces. Add water, heat gradually to boiling-point, skim, and cook slowly two hours. After cooking one hour, add salt, pepper, turnip, and onion. Strain, cool, remove fat, reheat, and thicken with flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Cook carrot and turnip dice in boiling salted water until soft; drain, and add to soup. Soak barley over night, in cold water, drain, and cook in boiling salted water until soft; drain, and add to soup. If barley should be cooked in the soup, it would absorb the greater part of the stock. Barley may be omitted; in that case sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and serve with croûtons.

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#### White Soup Stock I

3 lbs. knuckle of veal
1 lb. lean beef
3 quarts boiling water
1 onion
6 slices carrot
1 large stalk celery
½ teaspoon peppercorns
½ bay leaf
2 sprigs thyme
2 cloves
French Chef

Wipe veal, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces; cut beef in pieces, put bone and meat in soup kettle, cover with cold water, and bring quickly to boiling-point; drain, throw away the water. Wash thoroughly bones and meat in cold water; return to kettle, add vegetables, seasonings, and three quarts boiling water. Boil three or four hours; the stock should be reduced one half.

#### White Soup Stock II

4 lbs. knuckle of veal
2 quarts cold water
1 tablespoon salt
½ teaspoon peppercorns
1 onion
2 stalks celery
Blade of mace

Wipe meat, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces. Put meat, bone, water, and seasonings in kettle. Heat gradually to boiling-point, skimming frequently. Simmer four or five hours, and strain. If scum has been carefully removed, and soup is strained through double thickness of cheese-cloth, stock will be quite clear.

#### White Soup Stock III

The water in which a fowl or chicken is cooked makes White Stock.

#### Chicken Soup with Wine

3 lb. fowl
2 quarts cold water
2 slices carrot
1 tablespoon salt
½ teaspoon peppercorns
1 onion, sliced
2 stalks celery
Bit of bay leaf
2 tablespoons Sauterne wine
1 teaspoon beef extract
1 cup cream
Salt
Pepper

Wipe and cut up fowl. Cover with water, and add carrot, salt, peppercorns, onion, celery, and bay leaf. Bring 119quickly to boiling-point, then let simmer until meat is tender. Remove meat and strain stock. Chill, remove fat, reheat, and add wine, beef extract, and cream. Season with salt and pepper.

#### French White Soup

4 lb. fowl
Knuckle of veal
3 qts. cold water
1 onion, sliced
6 slices carrot
½ bay leaf
1 sprig parsley
½ teaspoon thyme
½ teaspoon peppercorns
½ tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon lean raw ham, finely chopped
4 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup cream
Yolks 2 eggs

Wipe, clean, and disjoint fowl. Wipe veal, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces. Put meat, bone, and water in kettle, heat slowly to boiling-point, skim, and cook slowly four hours. Cook vegetables and ham in one tablespoon butter five minutes, add to soup with peppercorns and salt, and cook one hour. Strain, cool, and remove fat. Reheat three cups stock, thicken with remaining butter and flour cooked together, and just before serving add cream and egg yolks. Garnish with one-half cup cooked green peas and Chicken Custard cut in dice.

#### White Soup

5 cups White Stock III
½ tablespoon salt
½ teaspoon peppercorns
1 slice onion
1 stalk celery
2 cups scalded milk
3 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
Yolks 2 eggs
Salt and pepper

Add seasonings to stock, and simmer thirty minutes; strain, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together; add scalded milk. Dilute eggs, slightly beaten, with hot soup, and add to remaining soup; strain, and season with salt and pepper. Serve at once or soup will have a curdled appearance.

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#### Chicken Soup

6 cups White Stock III
1 tablespoon lean raw ham, finely chopped
6 slices carrot, cut in cubes
2 stalks celery
½ bay leaf
¼ teaspoon peppercorns
1 sliced onion
⅓ cup hot boiled rice

Add seasonings to stock, heat gradually to boiling-point, and boil thirty minutes; strain, and add rice.

#### Turkey Soup

Break turkey carcass in pieces, removing all stuffing; put in kettle with any bits of meat that may have been left over. Cover with cold water, bring slowly to boiling-point, and simmer two hours. Strain, remove fat, and season with salt and pepper. One or two outer stalks of celery may be cooked with carcass to give additional flavor.

#### Hygienic Soup

6 cups White Stock III
¼ cup oatmeal
2 cups scalded milk
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
Salt and pepper

Heat stock to boiling-point, add oatmeal, and boil one hour; rub through sieve, add milk, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper.

#### Farina Soup

4 cups White Stock III
¼ cup farina
2 cups scalded milk
1 cup cream
Few gratings of nutmeg
Salt and pepper

Heat stock to boiling-point, add farina, and boil fifteen minutes; then add milk, cream, and seasonings.

#### Spring Soup

1 quart White Stock I or II
1 large onion thinly sliced
3 tablespoons butter
½ cup stale baker’s bread
1 cup milk
1 cup cream
2 tablespoons flour
Salt and pepper

Cook onion fifteen minutes in one tablespoon butter; add to stock, with bread broken in pieces. Simmer one hour; 121rub through sieve. Add milk, and bind with remaining butter and flour cooked together; add cream, and season.

#### Duchess Soup

4 cups White Stock III
2 slices carrot, cut in cubes
2 slices onion
2 blades mace
½ cup grated mild cheese
⅓ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
2 cups scalded milk

Cook vegetables three minutes in one and one-half tablespoons butter, then add stock and mace; boil fifteen minutes, strain, and add milk. Thicken with remaining butter and flour cooked together; add salt and pepper. Stir in cheese, and serve as soon as cheese is melted.

#### Potage à la Reine

4 cups White Stock III
½ teaspoon peppercorns
1 stalk celery
1 slice onion
½ tablespoon salt
Yolks 3 “hard-boiled” eggs
⅓ cup cracker crumbs
Breast meat from a boiled chicken
2 cups scalded milk
½ cup cold milk
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour

Cook stock with seasonings twenty minutes. Rub yolks of eggs through sieve. Soak cracker crumbs in cold milk until soft; add to eggs. Chop meat and rub through sieve; add to egg and cracker mixture. Then pour milk on slowly, and add to strained stock; boil three minutes. Bind with butter and flour cooked together.

#### Royal Soup

1 cup stale bread crumbs
½ cup milk
Yolks 3 “hard-boiled” eggs
Breast meat from a boiled chicken
Salt and pepper
1½ cups scalded milk
3½ cups White Stock III
2½ tablespoons butter
2½ tablespoons flour

Soak bread crumbs in milk, add yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve and chicken meat also rubbed through a sieve. Add gradually milk, and chicken stock highly seasoned. Bind with butter and flour cooked together, and season with salt and pepper.

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#### St. Germain Soup

3 cups White Stock I, II, or III
1 can Marrowfat peas
1 cup cold water
½ onion
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
Blade of mace
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons corn-starch
1 cup milk

Drain and rinse peas, reserving one-third cup; put remainder in cold water with seasonings, and simmer one-half hour; rub through sieve and add stock. Bind with butter and corn-starch cooked together; boil five minutes. Add milk and reserved peas.

#### Imperial Soup

4 cups White Stock III
2 cups stale bread crumbs
2 stalks celery, broken in pieces
2 slices carrot, cut in cubes
1 small onion
3 tablespoons butter
Sprig of parsley
2 cloves
½ teaspoon peppercorns
Bit of bay leaf
Blade of mace
1 teaspoon salt
½ breast boiled chicken
⅓ cup blanched almonds
1 cup cream
½ cup milk
2 tablespoons flour

Cook celery, carrot, and onion in one tablespoon butter five minutes; tie in cheese-cloth with parsley, cloves, peppercorns, bay leaf, and mace; add to stock with salt and bread crumbs, simmer one hour, remove seasonings, and rub through a sieve. Chop chicken meat and rub through sieve; pound almonds to a paste, add to chicken, then add cream. Combine mixtures, add milk, reheat, and bind with remaining butter and flour cooked together.

#### Veal and Sago Soup

2½ lbs. lean veal
3 quarts cold water
¼ lb. pearl sago
2 cups scalded milk
Yolks 4 eggs
Salt and pepper

Order meat from market, very finely chopped. Pick over and remove particles of fat. Cover meat with water, 123bring slowly to boiling-point, and simmer two hours, skimming occasionally; strain and reheat. Soak sago one-half hour in enough cold water to cover, stir into hot stock, boil thirty minutes, and add milk; then pour mixture slowly on yolks of eggs, slightly beaten. Season with salt and pepper.

#### Asparagus Soup

3 cups White Stock II or III
1 can asparagus
2 cups cold water
1 slice onion
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
2 cups scalded milk
Salt and pepper

Drain and rinse asparagus, reserve tips, and add stalks to cold water; boil five minutes, drain, add stock, and onion; boil thirty minutes, rub through sieve, and bind with butter and flour cooked together. Add salt, pepper, milk, and tips.

#### Cream of Celery Soup

2 cups White Stock II or III
3 cups celery, cut in inch pieces
2 cups boiling water
1 slice onion
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
2 cups milk
1 cup cream
Salt
Pepper

Parboil celery in water ten minutes; drain, add stock, cook until celery is soft, and rub through sieve. Scald onion in milk, remove onion, add milk to stock, bind, add cream, and season with salt and pepper.

#### Spinach Soup

4 cups White Stock II or III
2 quarts spinach
3 cups boiling water
2 cups milk
¼ cup butter
⅓ cup flour
Salt
Pepper

Wash, pick over, and cook spinach thirty minutes in boiling water to which has been added one-fourth teaspoon powdered sugar and one-eighth teaspoon of soda; drain, chop, and rub through sieve; add stock, heat to boiling-point, bind, add milk, and season with salt and pepper.

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#### Cream of Lettuce Soup

2½ cups White Stock II or III
2 heads lettuce finely cut
2 tablespoons rice
½ cup cream
¼ tablespoon onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon butter
Yolk 1 egg
Few grains nutmeg
Salt
Pepper

Cook onion five minutes in butter, add lettuce, rice, and stock. Cook until rice is soft, then add cream, yolk of egg slightly beaten, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Remove outer leaves from lettuce, using only tender part for soup.

#### Mushroom Soup

½ lb. mushrooms
4 cups White Stock III
¼ cup pearl sago
1 cup boiling water
1 cup heavy cream
Yolks 2 eggs
Salt and pepper

Clean and chop mushrooms, and add to stock. Cook twenty minutes and rub through a sieve. Cook sago in boiling water thirty minutes, add to stock, and as soon as boiling-point is reached, season with salt and pepper; then add cream and yolks of eggs.

#### Cream of Mushroom Soup

½ lb. mushrooms
4 cups White Stock III
1 slice onion
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 cup cream
Salt
Pepper
2 tablespoons Sauterne

Chop mushrooms, add to White Stock with onion, cook twenty minutes, and rub through a sieve. Reheat, bind with butter and flour cooked together, then add cream and salt and pepper to taste. Just before serving add wine.

#### Cream of Watercress Soup

2 cups White Stock I, II or III
2 bunches watercress
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
½ cup milk
Yolk 1 egg
Salt
Pepper

Cut finely leaves of watercress; cook five minutes in two tablespoons butter, add stock, and boil five minutes. Thicken 125with butter and flour cooked together, add salt and pepper. Just before serving, add milk and egg yolk, slightly beaten. Serve with slices of French bread, browned in oven.

#### Cream of Cauliflower Soup

4 cups hot White Stock II or III
1 cauliflower
¼ cup butter
1 slice onion
1 stalk celery, cut in inch pieces
½ bay leaf
¼ cup flour
2 cups milk
Salt
Pepper

Soak cauliflower, head down, one hour in cold water to cover; cook in boiling salted water twenty minutes. Reserve one-half flowerets, and rub remaining cauliflower through sieve. Cook onion, celery, and bay leaf in butter five minutes. Remove bay leaf, then add flour, and stir into hot stock; add cauliflower and milk. Season with salt and pepper; then strain, add flowerets, and reheat.

#### Cucumber Soup

3 large cucumbers
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
3 cups White Stock III
1 cup milk
1 slice onion
2 blades mace
½ cup cream
Yolks 2 eggs
Salt and pepper

Peel cucumbers, slice, and remove seeds. Cook in butter ten minutes; then add flour and stock. Scald milk with onion and mace. Combine mixtures and rub through a sieve. Reheat to boiling-point and add cream and egg yolks. Season with salt and pepper.

#### Almond Soup

⅔ cup almonds
6 bitter almonds
4 tablespoons cold water
⅛ teaspoon salt
3 cups White Stock III
1 small onion
3 stalks celery
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
2 cups scalded milk
1 cup cream
Salt and pepper

Blanch, chop, and pound almonds in a mortar. Add gradually water and salt; then add stock, sliced onion, and celery, let simmer one hour, and rub through a sieve. Melt 126butter, add flour, and pour on gradually the hot liquor; then add milk, cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve with Mock Almonds.

#### String Bean Soup

4 cups White Stock I, II, or III
2 quarts string beans
2 cups scalded milk
¼ cup flour
¼ cup butter
Salt and pepper

Cook beans until soft in boiling salted water to cover; drain, and rub through sieve. Add pulp to White Stock, then milk; bind, and season with salt and pepper. Garnish with Fritter Beans.

#### Soup à la Soubise

Thinly slice two Spanish onions, and cook ten minutes in one-fourth cup butter, stirring constantly. Add one quart White Stock III, cook slowly thirty minutes, and strain. Dilute three tablespoons flour with enough cold water to pour easily, add to soup, and bring to boiling-point. Then add one cup cream, and one tablespoon chopped green peppers, or one-fourth cup grated cheese. Season with salt and pepper.

#### Chestnut Purée

4 cups White Stock II or III
2 cups French chestnuts, boiled and mashed
1 slice onion
¼ teaspoon celery salt
2 cups scalded milk
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
Salt
Pepper

Cook stock, chestnuts, onion, and celery salt ten minutes; rub through sieve, add milk, and bind. Season with salt and pepper.

#### Crab Soup

6 hard-shelled crabs
3 cups White Stock III
⅔ cup stale bread crumbs
1 slice onion
1 sprig parsley
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup cream
Salt
Cayenne

Remove meat from crabs, and chop finely. Add stock, bread crumbs, onion, and parsley, and simmer twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve, bind with butter and flour cooked 127together, then add cream and seasonings. Serve with Pulled Bread.

#### Philadelphia Pepper Pot

Sliced onion | ¼ cup each
Chopped celery
Chopped green peppers
4 tablespoons butter
3½ tablespoons flour
5 cups hot White Stock III
½ lb. honeycomb tripe, cut in cubes
1½ cups potato cubes
½ teaspoon peppercorns, finely pounded
¾ tablespoon salt
½ cup heavy cream

Cook vegetables in three tablespoons butter fifteen minutes; add flour, and stir until well mixed; then add remaining ingredients except cream. Cover, and let cook one hour. Just before serving, add cream and remaining butter.

#### Mulligatawny Soup

5 cups White Stock II
1 cup tomatoes
Onion, cut in slices | ¼ cup each
Carrot, cut in cubes
Celery, cut in cubes
1 pepper, finely chopped
1 apple, sliced
1 cup raw chicken, cut in dice
¼ cup butter
⅓ cup flour
1 teaspoon curry powder
Blade of mace
2 cloves
Sprig of parsley
Salt and pepper
French Chef

Cook vegetables and chicken in butter until brown; add flour, curry powder, mace, cloves, parsley, stock, and tomato, and simmer one hour. Strain, reserve chicken, and rub vegetables through sieve. Add chicken to strained soup, season with salt and pepper, and serve with boiled rice.

#### Mock Turtle Soup

1 calf’s head
6 cloves
½ teaspoon peppercorns
6 allspice berries
2 sprigs thyme
⅓ cup sliced onion
⅓ cup carrot, cut in dice
2 cups brown stock
¼ cup butter
½ cup flour
1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
Juice ½ lemon
Madeira wine

Clean and wash calf’s head; soak one hour in cold water to cover. Cook until tender in three quarts boiling salted 128water (to which seasoning and vegetables have been added). Remove head; boil stock until reduced to one quart. Strain and cool. Melt and brown butter, add flour, and stir until well browned; then pour on slowly brown stock. Add head-stock, tomato, one cup face-meat cut in dice, and lemon juice. Simmer five minutes; add Royal custard cut in dice, and Egg Balls, or Force-meat Balls. Add Madeira wine, and salt and pepper to taste.

#### Consommé

3 lbs. beef, poorer part of round
1 lb. marrow-bone
3 lbs. knuckle of veal
1 quart chicken stock
Carrot | ⅓ cup each, cut in dice
Turnip
Celery
⅓ cup sliced onion
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon peppercorns
4 cloves
3 sprigs thyme
1 sprig marjoram
2 sprigs parsley
½ bay leaf
3 quarts cold water

Cut beef in one and one-half inch cubes, and brown one-half in some of the marrow from marrow-bone; put remaining half in kettle with cold water, add veal cut in pieces, browned meat, and bones. Let stand one-half hour. Heat slowly to boiling-point, and let simmer three hours, removing scum as it forms on top of kettle. Add one quart liquor in which a fowl was cooked, and simmer two hours. Cook carrot, turnip, onion, and celery in butter five minutes; then add to soup, with remaining seasonings. Cook one and one-half hours, strain, cool quickly, remove fat, and clear.

#### Consommé à la Royal

Consommé, served with Royal custard.

#### Consommé au Parmesan

Consommé, served with Parmesan Pâte à Chou.

#### Consommé Colbert

To six cups Consommé add one-third cup each of cooked green peas, flageolets, carrots cut in small cubes, and celery cut in small pieces. Serve a poached egg in each plate of soup.

129

#### Consommé aux Pâtes

Consommé, served with noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, or any Italian pastes, first cooked in boiling salted water.

#### Consommé d’Orleans

Consommé, served with red and white quenelles and French peas.

#### Consommé with Vegetables

Consommé, served with French string beans, and cooked carrots cut in fancy shapes with French vegetable cutters.

#### Consommé Princess

Consommé, served with green peas and cooked chicken meat cut in small dice.

#### Claret Consommé

To one quart Consommé add one and one-half cups claret, which has been cooked with a three-inch piece stick cinnamon ten minutes and one tablespoon sugar. Color red.

#### Bortchock Consommé

Make same as Consommé, adding one-third cup chopped beets with vegetables; then add one cup finely chopped beets when clearing.

### SOUPS WITH FISH STOCK

#### Clam Bouillon

Wash and scrub with a brush one-half peck clams, changing the water several times. Put in kettle with three cups cold water, cover tightly, and steam until shells are well opened. Strain liquor, cool, and clear.

#### Oyster Stew

1 quart oysters
4 cups scalded milk
¼ cup butter
½ tablespoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Clean oysters by placing in a colander and pouring over them three-fourths cup cold water. Carefully pick over 130oysters, reserve liquor, and heat it to boiling-point; strain through double cheese-cloth, add oysters, and cook until oysters are plump and edges begin to curl. Remove oysters with skimmer, and put in tureen with butter, salt, and pepper. Add oyster liquor strained a second time, and milk. Serve with oyster crackers.

#### Scallop Stew

Make same as Oyster Stew, using one quart scallops in place of oysters.

#### Oyster Soup

1 quart oysters
4 cups milk
1 slice onion
2 stalks celery
2 blades mace
Sprig of parsley
Bit of bay leaf
⅓ cup butter
⅓ cup flour
Salt and pepper

Clean and pick over oysters as for Oyster Stew; reserve liquor, add oysters slightly chopped, heat slowly to boiling-point, and let simmer twenty minutes. Strain through cheese-cloth, reheat liquor, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with onion, celery, mace, parsley, and bay leaf; remove seasonings, and add to oyster liquor. Season with salt and pepper.

#### French Oyster Soup

1 quart oysters
4 cups milk
1 slice onion
2 blades mace
⅓ cup butter
⅓ cup flour
Yolks 2 eggs
Salt and pepper

Make same as Oyster Soup, adding yolks of eggs, slightly beaten, just before serving. Garnish with Fish Quenelles.

#### Oyster Soup, Amsterdam Style

1 quart oysters
Water
3 tablespoons butter
3½ tablespoons flour
½ teaspoon salt
Paprika
Celery salt
1 cup cream

Clean, pick over, chop, and parboil oysters; drain and add to liquor enough water to make one quart liquid. Brown butter, add flour, and pour on gradually, while stirring 131constantly, oyster liquor. Let simmer one-half hour. Season with salt, paprika, and celery salt, and just before serving add cream.

#### Oyster Gumbo

1 pint oysters
4 cups Fish Stock
¼ cup butter
1 tablespoon chopped onion
½ can okra
⅓ can tomatoes
Salt
Pepper

Clean, pick over, and parboil oysters; drain, and add oyster liquor to Fish Stock. Cook onion five minutes in one-half the butter; add to stock. Then add okra, tomatoes heated and drained from some of their liquor, oysters, and remaining butter. Season with salt and pepper.

Fish Stock is the liquor obtained by covering the head, tail, skin, bones, and small quantity of flesh adhering to bones of fish, with cold water, bringing slowly to boiling-point, simmering thirty minutes, and straining.

#### Clam Soup with Poached Eggs

1 quart clams
4 cups milk
1 slice onion
⅓ cup butter
⅛ cup flour
1½ teaspoons salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Few gratings nutmeg
Whites 2 eggs

Clean and pick over clams, using three-fourths cup cold water; reserve liquor. Put aside soft part of clams; finely chop hard part, add to liquor, bring gradually to boiling-point, strain, then thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, add milk and soft part of clams to stock; cook two minutes. Add seasonings, and pour over whites of eggs beaten stiff.

#### Clam and Oyster Soup

1 pint clams
1 pint oysters
4 cups milk
1 slice onion
2 blades mace
Sprig of parsley
Bit of bay leaf
⅓ cup butter
⅓ cup flour
Salt and pepper

Clean and pick over oysters, using one-third cup cold water; reserve liquor, and add oysters slightly chopped. 132Clean and pick over clams, reserve liquor, and add to hard part of clams, finely chopped; put aside soft part of clams. Heat slowly to boiling-point clams and oysters with liquor from both, let simmer twenty minutes and strain through cheese-cloth. Scald milk with onion, mace, parsley, and bay leaf; remove seasonings, and add milk to stock. Thicken with butter and flour cooked together, add soft part of clams, and cook two minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

#### Cream of Clam Soup

Make same as French Oyster Soup, using clams in place of oysters.

#### Clam Consommé

Wash two quarts clams in shell. Put in kettle with one-fourth cup cold water, cover, and cook until shells open. Strain liquor through double thickness cheese-cloth, add to four cups consommé, and clear.

#### Clam and Chicken Frappé

Wash and scrub with a brush two quarts clams, changing water several times. Put in kettle with one-half cup cold water, cover tightly, and steam until shells are well opened. Remove clams from shells and strain liquor through double thickness cheese-cloth. To one and two-thirds cups clam liquor add two and one-half cups White Stock III, highly seasoned. Cool, and freeze to a mush. Serve in place of a soup in frappé glasses, and garnish with whipped cream.

#### Clam and Tomato Bisque

1 quart clams
1½ cups cold water
⅓ cup butter
⅓ cup flour
½ onion
2 cups cream
1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
⅛ teaspoon soda
Salt
Cayenne

Pour water over clams, then drain. To water add hard part of clams finely chopped. Heat slowly to boiling-point, cook twenty minutes, then strain. Cook butter with onion five minutes; remove onion, add flour and gradually clam 133water. Add cream, soft part of clams, and as soon as boiling-point is reached, tomatoes to which soda has been added. Season with salt and cayenne, and serve at once.

#### Oyster Bisque

1 quart oysters
2 cups White Stock III
1½ cups stale bread crumbs
1 slice onion
2 stalks celery
Sprig of parsley
Bit of bay leaf
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
4 cups scalded milk
Salt
Pepper

Clean and pick over oysters, reserving liquor, setting aside soft portions, and chopping gills and tough muscles. Cook White Stock, bread crumbs, reserved liquor, chopped oyster, onion, celery, parsley, and bay leaf thirty minutes. Rub through a sieve, bring to boiling-point, and bind with butter and flour cooked together. Add milk, soft portion of oysters, and salt and pepper to taste.

#### Cream of Scallop Soup

1 quart scallops
4 cups milk
2 cloves
Bit of bay leaf
¼ teaspoon peppercorns
1 tablespoon chopped onion
5 tablespoons butter
¼ cup flour
Salt
Pepper

Clean scallops, reserve one-half cup and finely chop remainder. Add these to milk, with seasonings and two tablespoons butter, and cook slowly twenty minutes. Strain and thicken with remaining butter and flour cooked together. Parboil reserved scallops, and add to soup. Serve with small biscuits or oysterettes.

#### Lobster Bisque

2 lb. lobster
2 cups cold water
4 cups milk
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1½ teaspoons salt
Few grains of cayenne

Remove meat from lobster shell. Add cold water to body bones and tough end of claws, cut in pieces; bring slowly to boiling-point, and cook twenty minutes. Drain, 134reserve liquor, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with tail meat of lobster, finely chopped; strain, and add to liquor. Season with salt and cayenne; then add tender claw meat, cut in dice, and body meat. When coral is found in lobster, wash, wipe, force through fine strainer, put in a mortar with butter, work until well blended, then add flour, and stir into soup. If a richer soup is desired, White Stock may be used in place of water.

Utensils for making Cream Soups.—Page 136.

Cream Soup and Croûtons ready for serving.—Page 136.

Croûtons; Imperial Sticks; Mock Almonds.—Page 145.

Souffléd Crackers.—Page 145.

135

## CHAPTER IX
SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK

### Black Bean Soup

1 pint black beans
2 quarts cold water
1 small onion
2 stalks celery, or
¼ teaspoon celery salt
½ tablespoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon mustard
Few grains cayenne
3 tablespoons butter
1½ tablespoons flour
2 “hard-boiled” eggs
1 lemon

Soak beans over night; in the morning drain and add cold water. Slice onion, and cook five minutes with half the butter, adding to beans, with celery stalks broken in pieces. Simmer three or four hours, or until beans are soft; add more water as water boils away. Rub through a sieve, reheat to the boiling-point, and add salt, pepper, mustard, and cayenne well mixed. Bind with remaining butter and flour cooked together. Cut eggs in thin slices, and lemon in thin slices, removing seeds. Put in tureen, and strain the soup over them.

### Baked Bean Soup

3 cups cold baked beans
3 pints water
2 slices onion
2 stalks celery
1½ cups stewed and strained tomatoes
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon Chili sauce
Salt
Pepper

Put beans, water, onion, and celery in saucepan; bring to boiling-point and simmer thirty minutes. Rub through a sieve, add tomato, and Chili sauce, season to taste with salt and pepper, and bind with the butter and flour cooked together. Serve with Crisp Crackers.

136

### Cream of Lima Bean Soup

1 cup dried lima beans
3 pints cold water
2 slices onion
4 slices carrot
1 cup cream or milk
4 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper

Soak beans over night; in the morning drain and add cold water; cook until soft, and rub through a sieve. Cut vegetables in small cubes, and cook five minutes in half the butter; remove vegetables, add flour, salt, and pepper, and stir into boiling soup. Add cream, reheat, strain, and add remaining butter in small pieces.

### Cream of Artichoke Soup

6 artichokes
4 cups boiling water
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1½ teaspoons salt
Few grains cayenne
Few gratings nutmeg
2 tablespoons Sauterne wine
1 cup scalded cream
1 egg
2 cucumbers

Cook artichokes in boiling water until soft, and rub through a sieve. Melt butter, add flour and seasonings, pour on hot liquor, and cook one minute. Add cream, wine, and egg slightly beaten. Pare cucumbers, cut in one-third inch cubes, sauté in butter, and add to soup. Jerusalem artichokes are used for the making of this soup.

### Celery Soup I

3 cups celery (cut in one-half inch pieces)
1 pint boiling water
2½ cups milk
1 slice onion
3 tablespoons butter
¼ cup flour
Salt and pepper

Wash and scrape celery before cutting in pieces, cook in boiling water until soft, and rub through a sieve. Scald milk with the onion, remove onion, and add milk to celery. Bind with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper. Outer and old stalks of celery may be utilized for soups. Serve with croûtons, crisp crackers, or pulled bread.

137

### Celery Soup II

3 stalks celery
3 cups milk
1 slice onion
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
Salt and pepper
1 cup cream

Break celery in one-inch pieces, and pound in a mortar. Cook in double boiler with onion and milk twenty minutes. Thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper, add cream, strain into tureen, and serve at once.

### Corn Soup

1 can corn
1 pint boiling water
1 pint milk
1 slice onion
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Chop the corn, add water, and simmer twenty minutes; rub through a sieve. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to corn. Bind with butter and flour cooked together. Add salt and pepper.

### Halibut Soup

¾ cup cold boiled halibut
1 pint milk
1 slice onion
Blade of mace
3 tablespoons butter
1½ tablespoons flour
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Rub fish through a sieve. Scald milk with onion and mace. Remove seasonings, and add fish. Bind with half the butter and flour cooked together. Add salt, pepper, and the remaining butter in small pieces.

### Pea Soup

1 can Marrowfat peas
2 teaspoons sugar
1 pint cold water
1 pint milk
1 slice onion
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Drain peas from their liquor, add sugar and cold water, and simmer twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve, reheat, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to pea mixture, 138season with salt and pepper. Peas too old to serve as a vegetable may be utilized for soups.

### Split Pea Soup

1 cup dried split peas
2½ quarts cold water
1 pint milk
½ onion
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1½ teaspoons salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
2–inch cube fat salt pork

Pick over peas and soak several hours, drain, add cold water, pork, and onion. Simmer three or four hours, or until soft; rub through a sieve. Add butter and flour cooked together, salt, and pepper. Dilute with milk, adding more if necessary. The water in which a ham has been cooked may be used; in such case omit salt.

### Kornlet Soup

1 can kornlet
1 pint cold water
1 quart milk, scalded
4 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon chopped onion
4 tablespoons flour
1½ teaspoons salt
Few grains pepper

Cook kornlet in cold water twenty minutes; rub through a sieve, and add milk. Fry butter and onion three minutes; remove onion, add flour, salt, and pepper, and stir into boiling soup.

### Potato Soup

3 potatoes
1 quart milk
2 slices onion
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1½ teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon celery salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon chopped parsley

Cook potatoes in boiling salted water; when soft, rub through a strainer. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk slowly to potatoes. Melt half the butter, add dry ingredients, stir until well mixed, then stir into boiling soup; cook one minute, strain, add remaining butter, and sprinkle with parsley.

### Appledore Soup

Make same as Potato Soup, and add, just before serving, three tablespoons tomato catsup.

139

### Swiss Potato Soup

4 small potatoes
1 large flat white turnip
3 cups boiling water
1 quart scalded milk
½ onion
4 tablespoons butter
⅓ cup flour
1½ teaspoons salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Wash, pare, and cut potatoes in halves. Wash, pare, and cut turnips in one-quarter inch slices. Parboil together ten minutes, drain, add onion cut in slices, and three cups boiling water. Cook until vegetables are soft; drain, reserving the water to add to vegetables after rubbing them through a sieve. Add milk, reheat, and bind with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper.

### Leek and Potato Soup

1 bunch leeks
1 cup celery
2½ tablespoons butter
1 quart milk
2½ cups potatoes
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
Salt and pepper
Cayenne

Cut leeks and celery in very thin slices crosswise and cook in two and one-half tablespoons butter, stirring constantly, ten minutes. Add milk, and cook in double boiler forty minutes. Cut potatoes in slices and cut slices in small pieces; then cook in boiling salted water ten minutes. Melt two tablespoons butter, add flour, milk with vegetables and potatoes. Cook until potatoes are soft, and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne.

### Vegetable Soup

⅓ cup carrot
⅓ cup turnip
½ cup celery
1½ cups potato
½ onion
1 quart water
5 tablespoons butter
½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Salt and pepper

Wash and scrape a small carrot; cut in quarters lengthwise; cut quarters in thirds lengthwise; cut strips thus made in thin slices crosswise. Wash and pare half a turnip, and cut and slice same as carrot. Wash, pare, and cut potatoes in small pieces. Wash and scrape celery and cut in quarter-inch pieces. Prepare vegetables before measuring. 140Cut onion in thin slices. Mix vegetables (except potatoes), and cook ten minutes, in four tablespoons butter, stirring constantly. Add potatoes, cover, and cook two minutes. Add water, and boil one hour. Beat with spoon or fork to break vegetables. Add remaining butter and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.

### Salmon Soup

⅓ can salmon
1 quart scalded milk
2 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
1½ teaspoons salt
Few grains pepper

Drain oil from salmon, remove skin and bones, rub through a sieve. Add gradually the milk, season, and bind.

### Squash Soup

¾ cup cooked squash
1 quart milk
1 slice onion
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
¼ teaspoon celery salt

Rub squash through a sieve before measuring. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to squash; season, and bind.

### Tomato Soup

1 can tomatoes
1 pint water
12 peppercorns
Bit of bay leaf
4 cloves
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon soda
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 slice onion

Cook tomatoes, water, peppercorns, bay leaf, cloves, and sugar twenty minutes; strain, and add salt and soda; bind, and strain into tureen.

### Cream of Tomato Soup

½ can tomatoes
2 teaspoons sugar
¼ teaspoon soda
1 quart milk
1 slice onion
4 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
⅓ cup butter

Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and thicken milk with flour diluted with cold water until thin enough to pour, being careful that the mixture is free from lumps; cook 141twenty minutes, stirring constantly at first. Cook tomatoes with sugar fifteen minutes, add soda, and rub through a sieve; combine mixtures, and strain into tureen over butter, salt, and pepper.

### Mock Bisque Soup

½ can tomatoes
2 teaspoons sugar
¼ teaspoon soda
½ onion, stuck with 6 cloves
Sprig of parsley
Bit of bay leaf
¾ cup stale bread crumbs
4 cups milk
½ tablespoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
⅓ cup butter

Scald milk with bread crumbs, onion, parsley, and bay leaf. Remove seasonings and rub through a sieve. Cook tomatoes with sugar fifteen minutes; add soda and rub through a sieve. Reheat bread and milk to boiling-point, add tomatoes, and pour at once into tureen over butter, salt, and pepper. Serve with croûtons, crisp crackers, or Souffléd crackers.

### Tapioca Wine Soup

⅓ cup pearl tapioca
1 cup cold water
3 cups boiling water
½ teaspoon salt
3–inch piece stick cinnamon
1 pint claret wine
½ cup powdered sugar

Soak tapioca in cold water two hours. Drain, add to boiling water with salt and cinnamon; let boil three minutes, then cook in double boiler until tapioca is transparent. Cool, add wine and sugar. Serve very cold.

### CHOWDERS

#### Corn Chowder

1 can corn
4 cups potatoes, cut in ¼-inch slices
1½-inch cube fat salt pork
1 sliced onion
4 cups scalded milk
8 common crackers
3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper

Cut pork in small pieces and try out; add onion and cook five minutes, stirring often that onion may not burn; strain 142fat into a stewpan. Parboil potatoes five minutes in boiling water to cover; drain, and add potatoes to fat; then add two cups boiling water; cook until potatoes are soft, add corn and milk, then heat to boiling-point. Season with salt and pepper; add butter, and crackers split and soaked in enough cold milk to moisten. Remove crackers, turn chowder into a tureen, and put crackers on top.

#### Fish Chowder

4 lb. cod or haddock
6 cups potatoes cut in ¼-inch slices, or
4 cups potatoes cut in ¾-inch cubes
1 sliced onion
1½-inch cube fat salt pork
1 tablespoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons butter
4 cups scalded milk
8 common crackers

Order the fish skinned, but head and tail left on. Cut off head and tail and remove fish from backbone. Cut fish in two-inch pieces and set aside. Put head, tail, and backbone broken in pieces, in stewpan; add two cups cold water and bring slowly to boiling-point; cook twenty minutes. Cut salt pork in small pieces and try out, add onion, and fry five minutes; strain fat into stewpan. Parboil potatoes five minutes in boiling water to cover; drain and add potatoes to fat; then add two cups boiling water and cook five minutes. Add liquor drained from bones, then add the fish; cover, and simmer ten minutes. Add milk, salt, pepper, butter, and crackers split and soaked in enough cold milk to moisten, otherwise they will be soft on the outside, but dry on the inside. Pilot bread is sometimes used in place of common crackers.

#### Connecticut Chowder

4 lb. cod or haddock
4 cups potatoes cut in ¾-inch cubes
1½-inch cube fat salt pork
1 sliced onion
2½ cups stewed and strained tomatoes
3 tablespoons butter
⅔ cup cracker crumbs
Salt and pepper

Prepare same as Fish Chowder, using liquor drained from bones for cooking potatoes, instead of additional water. Use tomatoes in place of milk and add cracker crumbs just before serving.

143

#### Clam Chowder

1 quart clams
4 cups potatoes cut in ¾-inch cubes
1½ inch cube fat salt pork
1 sliced onion
1 tablespoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
4 tablespoons butter
4 cups scalded milk
8 common crackers

Clean and pick over clams, using one cup cold water, drain, reserve liquor, heat to boiling-point, and strain. Chop finely hard part of clams; cut pork in small pieces and try out; add onion, fry five minutes, and strain into a stewpan. Parboil potatoes five minutes in boiling water to cover; drain, and put a layer in bottom of stewpan, add chopped clams, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge generously with flour; add remaining potatoes, again sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and add two and one-half cups boiling water. Cook ten minutes, add milk, soft part of clams, and butter; boil three minutes, and add crackers split and soaked in enough cold milk to moisten. Reheat clam water to boiling-point, and thicken with one tablespoon butter and flour cooked together. Add to chowder just before serving.

The clam water has a tendency to cause the milk to separate, hence is added at the last.

#### Rhode Island Chowder

1 quart clams
3 inch cube fat salt pork
1 sliced onion
½ cup cold water
4 cups potatoes cut in ¾ inch cubes
2 cups boiling water
1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
¼ teaspoon soda
1 cup scalded milk
1 cup scalded cream
2 tablespoons butter
8 common crackers
Salt and pepper

Cook pork with onion and cold water ten minutes; drain, and reserve liquor. Wash clams and reserve liquor. Parboil potatoes five minutes, and drain. To potatoes add reserved liquors, hard part of clams finely chopped, and boiling water. When potatoes are nearly done, add tomatoes, soda, soft part of clams, milk, cream, and butter. Season 144with salt and pepper. Split crackers, soak in cold milk to moisten, and reheat in chowder.

#### Lobster Chowder

2 lb. lobster
3 tablespoons butter
2 common crackers, finely pounded
4 cups milk
1 slice onion
1 cup cold water
Salt
Paprika or cayenne

Remove meat from lobster shell and cut in small dice. Cream two tablespoons butter, add liver of lobster (green part) and crackers; scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to mixture. Cook body bones ten minutes in cold water to cover, strain, and add to mixture with lobster dice. Season with salt and paprika.

#### German Chowder

3 lb. haddock
1 quart cold water
2 slices carrot
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
1 cracker, pounded
Salt, pepper, cayenne
2 tablespoons melted butter
Few drops onion juice
1 beaten egg
1 quart potatoes cut in ¾-inch cubes
2–inch cube fat salt pork
1 sliced onion
5 tablespoons flour
1 quart scalded milk
¼ cup butter
8 common crackers

Clean, skin, and bone fish. Add to bones cold water and vegetables, and let simmer twenty minutes. Strain stock from bones. Chop fish meat; there should be one and one-half cups. Add cracker, seasonings, melted butter and egg, then shape in small balls. Try out pork, add onion, and cook five minutes. Strain, and add to fat, potatoes, balls, and fish stock, and cook until potatoes are soft. Thicken milk with butter and flour cooked together. Combine mixtures, and season highly with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Add crackers, split and soaked in cold milk.

145

## CHAPTER X
SOUP GARNISHINGS AND FORCE-MEATS

### Crisp Crackers

Split common crackers and spread thinly with butter, allowing one-fourth teaspoon butter to each half cracker; put in pan and bake until delicately browned.

### Souffléd Crackers

Split common crackers, and soak in ice water, to cover, eight minutes. Dot over with butter, and bake in a hot oven until puffed and browned.

### Crackers with Cheese

Arrange zephyrettes or saltines in pan. Sprinkle with grated cheese and bake until cheese is melted.

### Croûtons (Duchess Crusts)

Cut stale bread in one-third inch slices and remove crusts. Spread thinly with butter. Cut slices in one-third inch cubes, put in pan and bake until delicately brown, or fry in deep fat.

### Cheese Sticks

Cut bread sticks in halves lengthwise, spread thinly with butter, sprinkle with grated cheese seasoned with salt and cayenne, and bake until delicately browned.

### Imperial Sticks in Rings

Cut stale bread in one-third inch slices, remove crusts, spread thinly with butter, and cut slices in one-third inch strips and rings; put in pan and bake until delicately browned. Arrange three sticks in each ring.

146

### Mock Almonds

Cut stale bread in one-eighth inch slices, shape with a round cutter one and one-half inches in diameter, then shape in almond-shaped pieces. Brush over with melted butter, put in a pan, and bake until delicately browned.

### Pulled Bread

Remove crusts from a long loaf of freshly baked water bread. Pull the bread apart until the pieces are the desired size and length, which is best accomplished by using two three-tined forks. Cook in a slow oven until delicately browned and thoroughly dried. A baker’s French loaf may be used for pulled bread if home-made is not at hand.

### Egg Balls I

Yolks 2 “hard-boiled” eggs
⅛ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
½ teaspoon melted butter

Rub yolks through sieve, add seasonings, and moisten with raw egg yolk to make of consistency to handle. Shape in small balls, roll in flour, and sauté in butter. Serve in Brown Soup Stock, Consommé, or Mock Turtle Soup.

### Egg Balls II

1 “hard-boiled” egg
⅛ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon heavy cream
¼ teaspoon finely chopped parsley

Rub yolk through a sieve, add white finely chopped, and remaining ingredients. Add raw egg yolk to make mixture of right consistency to handle. Shape in small balls, and poach in boiling water or stock.

### Egg Custard

Yolks 2 eggs
Few grains salt
2 tablespoons milk

Beat eggs slightly, add milk and salt. Pour into small buttered cup, place in pan of hot water, and bake until firm; cool, remove from cup, and cut in fancy shapes with French vegetable cutters.

147

### Harlequin Slices

Yolks 3 eggs
2 tablespoons milk
Few grains salt
Whites 3 eggs
Few grains salt
Chopped truffles

Beat yolks of eggs slightly, add milk and salt. Pour into small buttered cup, place in pan of hot water and bake until firm. Beat whites of eggs slightly, add salt, and cook same as yolks. Cool, remove from cups, cut in slices, pack in a mould in alternate layers, and press with a weight. A few truffles may be sprinkled between slices if desired. Remove from mould and cut in slices. Serve in Consommé.

### Royal Custard

Yolks 3 eggs
1 egg
½ cup Consommé
⅛ teaspoon salt
Slight grating nutmeg
Few grains cayenne

Beat eggs slightly, add Consommé and seasonings. Pour into a small buttered tin mould, place in pan of hot water, and bake until firm; cool, remove from mould, and cut in fancy shapes.

### Chicken Custard

Chop cooked breast meat of fowl and rub through sieve; there should be one-fourth cup. Add one-fourth cup White Stock and one egg slightly beaten. Season with salt, pepper, celery salt, paprika, slight grating nutmeg, and few drops essence anchovy. Turn mixture into buttered mould, bake in a pan of hot water until firm; cool, remove from mould, and cut in small cubes.

### Noodles

1 egg
½ teaspoon salt
Flour

Beat egg slightly, add salt, and flour enough to make very stiff dough; knead, toss on slightly floured board, and roll thinly as possible, which may be as thin as paper. Cover with towel, and set aside for twenty minutes; then cut in fancy shapes, using sharp knife or French vegetable cutter; or the thin sheet may be rolled like jelly roll, cut in 148slices as thinly as possible, and pieces unrolled. Dry, and when needed cook twenty minutes in boiling salted water; drain, and add to soup.

Noodles may be served as a vegetable.

### Fritter Beans

1 egg
2 tablespoons milk
¾ teaspoon salt
½ cup flour

Beat egg until light, add milk, salt, and flour. Put through colander or pastry tube into deep fat, and fry until brown; drain on brown paper.

### Pâte à Choux

2½ tablespoons milk
½ teaspoon lard
½ teaspoon butter
⅛ teaspoon salt
¼ cup flour
1 egg

Heat butter, lard, and milk to boiling-point, add flour and salt, and stir vigorously. Remove from fire, add egg unbeaten, and stir until well mixed. Cool, and drop small pieces from tip of teaspoon into deep fat. Fry until brown and crisp, and drain on brown paper.

### Parmesan Pâte à Choux

To Pâte à Choux mixture add two tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese.

### White Bait Garnish

Roll trimmings of puff paste, and cut in pieces three-fourths inch long and one-eighth inch wide; fry in deep fat until well browned, and drain on brown paper. Serve on folded napkin, and pass with soup.

### Fish Force-meat I

¼ cups fine stale bread crumbs
¼ cup milk
1 egg
⅔ cup raw fish
Salt

Cook bread and milk to a paste, add egg well beaten, and fish pounded and forced through a purée strainer. Season with salt. A meat chopper is of great assistance in making force-meats, as raw fish or meat may be easily forced through 149it. Bass, halibut, or pickerel are the best fish to use for force-meat. Force-meat is often shaped into small balls.

### Fish Force-meat II

⅔ cup raw halibut
White 1 egg
Salt
Pepper
Cayenne
½ cup heavy cream

Chop fish finely, or force through a meat chopper. Pound in mortar, adding gradually white of egg, and working until smooth. Add seasonings, rub through a sieve, and then add cream.

### Salmon Force-meat

½ cup milk
½ cup soft stale bread crumbs
½ cup cold flaked salmon
2 tablespoons cream
1 egg
2 tablespoons melted butter
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Cook milk and bread crumbs ten minutes, add salmon chopped and rubbed through a sieve; then add cream, egg slightly beaten, melted butter, salt, and pepper.

### Oyster Force-meat

To Fish Force-meat add one-fourth small onion, finely chopped, and fried five minutes in one-half tablespoon butter; then add one-third cup soft part of oysters, parboiled and finely chopped, one-third cup mushrooms finely chopped, and one-third cup Thick White Sauce. Season with salt, cayenne, and one teaspoon finely chopped parsley.

### Clam Force-meat

Follow recipe for Oyster Force-meat, using soft part of clams in place of oysters.

### Chicken Force-meat I

½ cup fine stale bread crumbs
½ cup milk
2 tablespoons butter
White 1 egg
⅔ cup breast raw chicken
Salt
Few grains cayenne
Slight grating nutmeg

Cook bread and milk to a paste, add butter, white of egg beaten stiff, and seasonings; then add chicken pounded and forced through purée strainer.

150

### Chicken Force-meat II

½ breast raw chicken
White 1 egg
Salt
Pepper
Slight grating nutmeg
Heavy cream

Chop chicken finely, or force through a meat chopper. Pound in mortar, add gradually white of egg, and work until smooth; then add heavy cream slowly until of right consistency, which can only be determined by cooking a small ball in boiling salted water. Add seasonings, and rub through sieve.

### Quenelles

Quenelles are made from any kind of force-meat, shaped in small balls or between tablespoons, making an oval, or by forcing mixture through pastry bag on buttered paper. They are cooked in boiling salted water or stock, and are served as garnish to soups or other dishes; when served with sauce, they are an entrée.

151

## CHAPTER XI
FISH

The meat of fish is the animal food next in importance to that of birds and mammals. Fish meat, with but few exceptions, is less stimulating and nourishing than meat of other animals, but is usually easier of digestion. Salmon, mackerel, and eels are exceptions to these rules, and should not be eaten by those of weak digestion. White fish, on account of their easy digestibility, are especially desirable for those of sedentary habits. Fish is not recommended for brain-workers on account of the large amount of phosphorus (an element abounding largely in nerve tissue) which it contains, but because of its easy digestibility. It is a conceded fact that many fish contain less of this element than meat.

Fish meat is generally considered cheaper than meat of other animals. This is true when compared with the better cuts of meat, but not so when compared with cheaper cuts.

To obtain from fish its greatest value and flavor, it should be eaten fresh, and in season. Turbot, which is improved by keeping, is the only exception to this rule.

To Determine Freshness of Fish. Examine the flesh, and it should be firm; the eyes and gills, and they should be bright.

Broiling and baking are best methods for cooking fish. White fish may often be fried, but oily rarely. Frozen fish are undesirable, but if used, should be thawed in cold water just before cooking.

On account of its strong odor, fish should never be put in an ice-box with other food, unless closely covered. A tin lard pail will be found useful for this purpose.

152

### White and Oily Fish

White fish have fat secreted in the liver. Examples: cod, haddock, trout, flounder, smelt, perch, etc.

Oily fish have fat distributed throughout the flesh. Examples: salmon, eels, mackerel, bluefish, swordfish, shad, herring, etc.

Cod belongs to one of the most prolific fish families (Gadidoe), and is widely distributed throughout the northern and temperate seas of both hemispheres. On account of its abundance, cheapness, and easy procurability, it forms, from an economical standpoint, one of the most important fish foods. Cod have been caught weighing over a hundred pounds, but average market cod weigh from six to ten pounds; a six-pound cod measures about twenty-three inches in length. Large cod are cut into steaks. The skin of cod is white, heavily mottled with gray, with a white line running the entire length of fish on either side. Cod is caught in shallow or deep waters. Shallow-water cod (caught off rocks) is called rock cod; deep-water cod is called off-shore cod. Rock cod are apt to be wormy. Cod obtained off George’s Banks, Newfoundland, are called George’s cod, and are commercially known as the best fish. Quantities of cod are preserved by drying and salting. Salted George’s cod is the best brand on the market. Cod is in season throughout the year.

Cod Liver Oil is obtained from cods’ livers, and has great therapeutic value. Isinglass, made from swimming bladder of cod, nearly equals in quality that made from bladder of sturgeon.

### Haddock is more closely allied to cod than any other fish.

It is smaller (its average weight being about four pounds), and differently mottled. The distinguishing mark of the haddock is a black line running the entire length of fish on either side. Haddock is found in the same water and in company with cod, but not so abundantly. Like cod, haddock is cheap, and in season throughout the year. Haddock, when dried, smoked, and salted, is known as Finnan Haddie.

Halibut is the largest of the flatfish family (Pleuronectidæ), 153specimens having been caught weighing from three to four hundred pounds. Small, or chicken, halibut is the kind usually found in market, and weighs from fifteen to twenty-five pounds. Halibut are distinctively cold-water fish, being caught in water at from 32° to 45° F. They are found in the North Atlantic and North Pacific oceans, where they are nearly identical. The halibut has a compressed body, the skin on one side being white, on the other light, or dark gray, and both eyes are found on the dark side of head. Halibut is in season throughout the year.

Turbot (called little halibut) is a species of the flatfish family, being smaller than halibut, and of more delicate flavor. Turbot are in season from January to March.

Flounder is a small flatfish, which closely resembles the sole which is caught in English waters, and is often served under that name.

Trout are generally fresh water fish, varying much in size and skin-coloring. Lake trout, which are the largest, reach their greatest perfection in Lakes Huron, Michigan, and Superior, but are found in many lakes. Salmon trout is the name applied to trout caught in New York lakes. Brook trout, caught in brooks and small lakes, are superior eating. Trout are in season from April to August, but a few are found later.

Whitefish is the finest fish found in the Great Lakes.

Smelts are small salt-water fish, and are usually caught in temperate waters at the mouths of rivers. New Brunswick and Maine send large quantities of smelts to market. Selected smelts are the largest in size, and command higher price. The Massachusetts Fish and Game Protective Law forbids their sale from March 15th to June 1st. Smelts are always sold by the pound.

Bluefish belongs to the Pomatomidæ family. It is widely distributed in temperate waters, taking different names in different localities. In New England and the Middle States it is generally called Bluefish, although in some parts called Snappers, or Snapping Mackerel. In the Southern States it is called Greenfish. It is in season in our markets from May to October; as it is frozen and kept in cold storage from 154six to nine months, it may be obtained throughout the year. The heavier the fish, the better its quality. Bluefish weigh from one to eight pounds, and are from fourteen to twenty-nine inches in length.

Mackerel is one of the best-known food fishes, and is caught in North Atlantic waters. Its skin is lustrous dark blue above, with wavy blackish lines, and silvery below. It sometimes attains a length of eighteen inches, but is usually less. Mackerel weigh from three-fourths of a pound to two pounds, and are sold by the piece. They are in season from May 1st to September 1st. Mackerel, when first in market, contain less fat than later in the season, therefore are easier of digestion. The supply of mackerel varies greatly from year to year, and some years is very small. Spanish mackerel are found in waters farther south than common mackerel, and in our markets command higher price.

Salmon live in both fresh and salt waters, always going, inland, usually to the head of rivers, during the spawning season. The young after a time seek salt water, but generally return to fresh water. Penobscot River Salmon are the best, and come from Maine and St. John, New Brunswick. The average weight of salmon is from fifteen to twenty-five pounds, and the flesh is of pinkish orange color. Salmon are in season from May to September, but frozen salmon may be obtained the greater part of the year. In the Columbia River and its tributaries salmon are so abundant that extensive canneries are built along the banks.

Shad, like salmon, are found in both salt and fresh water, always ascending rivers for spawning. Shad is caught on the Atlantic Coast of the United States, and its capture constitutes one of the most important fisheries. Shad have a silvery hue, which becomes bluish on the back; they vary in length from eighteen to twenty-eight inches, and are always sold by the piece, price being irrespective of size. Jack shad are usually cheaper than roe shad. The roe of shad is highly esteemed. Shad are in season from January to June. First shad in market come from Florida, and retail from one and one-half to two dollars each. The finest come from New Brunswick, and appear in market about the first of May.

155 Caviare is the salted roe of the sturgeon.

Herring are usually smoked, or smoked and salted, and, being very cheap, are a most economical food.

### SHELLFISH

#### I. Bivalve Mollusks

Oysters are mollusks, having two shells. The shells are on the right and left side of the oyster, and are called right and left valves. The one upon which the oyster rests grows faster, becomes deeper, and is known as the left valve. The valves are fastened by a ligament, which, on account of its elasticity, admits of opening and closing of the shells. The oyster contains a tough muscle, by which it is attached to the shell; the body is made up largely of the liver (which contains glycogen, animal starch), and is partially surrounded by fluted layers, which are the gills. Natural oyster beds (or banks) are found in shallow salt water having stony bottom, along the entire Atlantic Coast. The oyster industry of the world is chiefly in the United States and France, and on account of its increase many artificial beds have been prepared for oyster culture. Oysters are five years old before suitable for eating. Blue Points, which are small, plump oysters, take their name from Blue Point, Long Island, from which place they originally came. Their popularity grew so rapidly that the supply became inadequate for the demand, and any small, plump oysters were soon sold for Blue Points. During the oyster season they form the first course of a dinner, served raw on the half shell. In our markets, selected oysters (which are extremely large and used for broiling) Providence River, and Norfolk oysters are familiarly known, and, taken out of the shells, are sold by the quart. Farther south, they are sold by count.

Oysters are obtainable all the year, but are in season from September to May. During the summer mouths they are flabby and of poor flavor, although when fresh they are perfectly wholesome. Mussels, eaten in England and other parts of Europe, are similar to oysters, though of inferior 156quality. Oysters are nutritious and of easy digestibility, especially when eaten raw.

To Open Oysters. Put a thin flat knife under the back end of the right valve, and push forward until it cuts the strong muscle which holds the shells together. As soon as this is done, the right valve may be raised and separated from the left.

To Clean Oysters. Put oysters in a strainer placed over a bowl. Pour over oysters cold water, allowing one-half cup water to each quart oysters. Carefully pick over oysters, taking each one separately in the fingers, to remove any particles of shell which adhere to tough muscle.

Clams, among bivalve mollusks, rank in value next to oysters. They are found just below the surface of sand and mud, above low-water mark, and are easily dug with shovel or rake. Clams have hard or soft shells. Soft-shell clams are dear to the New Englander. From New York to Florida are found hard-shelled clams (quahaugs). Small quahaugs are called Little Neck Clams and take the place of Blue Points at dinner, when Blue Points are out of season.

Scallops are bivalve mollusks, the best being found in Long Island Sound and Narragansett Bay. The central muscle forms the edible portion, and is the only part sent to market. Scallops are in season from October first to April first.

#### II. Crustaceans

Lobsters belong to the highest order of Crustaceans, live exclusively in sea-water, generally near rocky coasts, and are caught in pots set on gravelly bottoms. The largest and best species are found in Atlantic waters from Maine to New Jersey, being most abundant on Maine and Massachusetts coasts. Lobsters have been found weighing from sixteen to twenty-five pounds, but such have been exterminated from our coast. The average weight is two pounds, and the length from ten to fifteen inches. Lobsters are largest and most abundant from June to September, but are obtainable all the year. When taken from the water, shells are of mottled dark green color, except 157when found on sandy bottoms, when they are quite red. Lobsters are generally boiled, causing the shell to turn red.

A lobster consists of body, tail, two large claws, and four pairs of small claws. On lower side of body, in front of large claws, are various small organs which surround the mouth, and a long and short pair of feelers. Under the tail are found several pairs of appendages. In the female lobster, also called hen lobster, is found, during the breeding season, the spawn, known as coral. Sex is determined by the pair of appendages in the tail which lie nearest the body; in the female they are soft and pliable, in the male hard and stiff. At one time small lobsters were taken in such quantities that it was feared, if the practice was long continued, they would be exterminated. To protect the continuance of lobster fisheries, a law has been passed in many States prohibiting their sale unless at least ten inches long.

Lobsters shed their shells at irregular intervals, when old ones are outgrown. The new ones begin to form and take on distinctive characteristics before the old ones are discarded. New shells after twenty-four hours’ exposure to the water are quite hard.

Lobsters, being coarse feeders (taking almost any animal substance attainable), are difficult of digestion, and with some create great gastric disturbance; notwithstanding, they are seldom found diseased.

To Select a Lobster. Take in the hand, and if heavy in proportion to its size, the lobster is fresh. Straighten the tail, and if it springs into place the lobster was alive (as it should have been) when put into the pot for boiling. There is greater shrinkage in lobsters than in any other fish.

To Open Lobsters. Take off large claws, small claws, and separate tail from body. Tail meat may sometimes be drawn out whole with a fork; more often it is necessary to cut the thin shell portion (using scissors or a can opener) in under part of the tail, then the tail meat may always be removed whole. Separate tail meat through centre, and remove the small intestinal vein which runs 158its entire length; although generally darker than the meat, it is sometimes found of the same color. Hold body shell firmly in left hand, and with first two fingers and thumb of right hand draw out the body, leaving in shell the stomach (known as the lady), which is not edible, and also some of the green part, the liver. The liver may be removed by shaking the shell. The sides of the body are covered with the lungs; these are always discarded. Break body through the middle and separate body bones, picking out meat that lies between them, which is some of the sweetest and tenderest to be found. Separate large claws at joints. If shells are thin, with a knife cut off a strip down the sharp edge, so that shell may be broken apart and meat removed whole. Where shell is thick, it must be broken with a mallet or hammer. Small claws are used for garnishing. The shell of body, tail, and lower part of large claws, if not broken, may be washed, dried, and used for serving of lobster meat after it has been prepared. The portions of lobsters which are not edible are lungs, stomach (lady), and intestinal vein.

Crabs among Crustaceans are next in importance to lobsters, commercially speaking. They are about two and one-half inches long by five inches wide, and are found along the Atlantic Coast from Massachusetts to Florida, and in the Gulf of Mexico. Crabs, like lobsters, change their shells. Soft-shell crabs are those which have recently shed their old shells, and the new shells have not had time to harden; these are considered by many a great luxury. Oyster crabs (very small crabs found in shells with oysters) are a delicacy not often indulged in. Crabs are in season during the spring and summer.

Shrimps are found largely in our Southern waters, the largest and best coming from Lake Pontchartrain. They are about two inches long, covered with a thin shell, and are boiled and sent to market with heads removed. Their grayish color is changed to pink by boiling. Shrimps are in season from May first to October first, and are generally used for salads. Canned shrimps are much used and favorably known.

159 Reptiles. Frogs and terrapin belong to a lower order of animals than fish,—reptiles. They are both table delicacies, and are eaten by the few.

Only the hind legs of frogs are eaten, and have much the same flavor as chicken.

Terrapin, although sold in our large cities, specially belong to Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington, where they are cooked and served at their best. They are shipped from the South, packed in seaweed, and may be kept for some time in a dark place. Terrapin are found in both fresh and salt-water. The Diamond Back, salt-water terrapin, coming from Chesapeake Bay, are considered the best, and command a very high price. Terrapin closely resembling Diamond Back, coming from Texas and Florida, are principally sold in our markets. Terrapin are in season from November to April, but are best in January, February, and March. They should always be cooked alive.

### TO PREPARE FISH FOR COOKING

To Clean a Fish. Fish are cleaned and dressed at market as ordered, but need additional cleaning before cooking. Remove scales which have not been taken off. This is done by drawing a knife over fish, beginning at tail and working towards head, occasionally wiping knife and scales from fish. Incline knife slightly towards you to prevent scales from flying. The largest number of scales will be found on the flank. Wipe thoroughly inside and out with cloth wrung out of cold water, removing any clotted blood which may be found adhering to backbone.

Head and tail may or may not be removed, according to size of fish and manner of cooking. Small fish are generally served with head and tail left on.

To Skin a Fish. With sharp knife remove fins along the back and cut off a narrow strip of skin the entire length of back. Loosen skin on one side from bony part of gills, and being once started, if fish is fresh, it may be readily drawn off; if flesh is soft do not work too quickly, as it will be badly torn. By allowing knife to closely follow skin this 160may be avoided. After removing skin from one side, turn fish and skin the other side.

To Bone a Fish. Clean and skin before boning. Beginning at the tail, run a sharp knife under flesh close to backbone, and with knife follow bone (making as clean a cut as possible) its entire length, thus accomplishing the removal of one-half the flesh; turn, and remove flesh from other side. Pick out with fingers any small bones that may remain. Cod, haddock, halibut, and whitefish are easily and frequently boned; flounders and smelts occasionally.

To Fillet Fish. Clean, skin, and bone. A piece of fish, large or small, freed from skin and bones, is known as a fillet. Halibut, cut in three-fourths inch slices, is more often cut in fillets than any kind of fish, and fillets are frequently rolled. When flounder is cut in fillets it is served under the name of fillet of sole. Sole found in English waters is much esteemed, and flounder is our nearest approach to it.

### WAYS OF COOKING FISH

To Cook Fish in Boiling Water. Small cod, haddock, or cusk are cooked whole in enough boiling water to cover, to which is added salt and lemon juice or vinegar. Salt gives flavor; lemon juice or vinegar keeps the flesh white. A long fish-kettle containing a rack on which to place fish is useful but rather expensive. In place of fish-kettle, if the fish is not too large to be coiled in it, a frying-basket may be used placed in any kettle.

Large fish are cut in thick pieces for boiling, containing the number of pounds required. Examples: salmon and halibut.

Pieces cut from large fish for boiling should be cleaned and tied in a piece of cheese-cloth to prevent scum being deposited on the fish. If skin is not removed before serving, scald the dark skin and scrape to remove coloring; this may be easily accomplished by holding fish on two forks, and lowering into boiling water the part covered with black skin; then remove and scrape. Time required for boiling fish depends on extent of surface exposed to water. Consult Time Table for Boiling, which will serve as a guide. The fish is cooked when flesh leaves the bone, no matter how long the time.

Boiled Mackerel, garnished with Potato Balls, Cucumber Ribbons Slices of Lemon cut in fancy shapes, and Parsley.—Page 161.

Hollenden Halibut.—Page 167.

Stuffed Haddock ready for baking.—Page 164.

Smelts prepared for cooking.—Page 173.

161 To Broil Fish. Cod, haddock, bluefish, and mackerel are split down the back and broiled whole, removing head and tail or not, as desired. Salmon, chicken halibut, and swordfish are cut in inch slices for broiling. Smelts and other small fish are broiled whole, without splitting. Clean and wipe fish as dry as possible, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and place in well-greased wire broiler. Slices of fish should be turned often while broiling; whole fish should be first broiled on flesh side, then turned and broiled on skin side just long enough to make skin brown and crisp.

To remove from broiler, loosen fish on one side, turn and loosen on other side; otherwise flesh will cling to broiler. Slip from broiler to hot platter, or place platter over fish and invert platter and broiler together.

To Bake Fish. Clean, and bake on a greased fish-sheet placed in a dripping-pan. If a fish-sheet is not at hand, place strips of cotton cloth under fish, by which it may be lifted from pan.

To Fry Fish. Clean fish, and wipe as dry as possible. Sprinkle with salt, dip in flour or crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat.

To Sauté Fish. Prepare as for frying, and cook in frying-pan with small amount of fat; or, if preferred, dip in granulated corn meal. Cod steak and smelts are often cooked in this way.

### TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF THE VARIOUS FISH USED FOR FOOD

Articles | Refuse | Proteid | Fat | Mineral matter |  | Water
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Bass, black | 54.8 | 9.3 | .8 | .5 |  | 34.6
Bluefish | 55.7 | 8.3 | .5 | .5 |  | 35.
Butterfish | 42.8 | 10.2 | 6.3 | .6 |  | 40.1
Cod, fresh | 52.5 | 8. | .2 | .6 |  | 38.7
Cod, salt, boneless |  | 22.2 | .3 | 23.1 |  | 54.4
Cusk | 40.3 | 10.1 | .1 | .5 |  | 49.
162Eels | 20.2 | 14.6 | 7.2 | .8 |  | 57.2
Flounder | 61.5 | 5.6 | .3 | .5 |  | 32.1
Haddock | 51. | 8.2 | .2 | .6 |  | 40.
Halibut, sections | 17.7 | 15.1 | 4.4 | .9 |  | 61.9
Herring | 42.6 | 10.9 | 3.9 | .9 |  | 41.7
Mackerel | 44.6 | 10. | 4.3 | .7 |  | 40.4
Mackerel, Spanish | 34.6 | 13.7 | 6.2 | 1. |  | 44.5
Perch, white | 62.5 | 7.2 | 1.5 | .4 |  | 28.4
Pickerel | 47.1 | 9.8 | .2 | .7 |  | 42.2
Pompano | 45.5 | 10.2 | 4.3 | .5 |  | 39.5
Red Snapper | 46.1 | 10.6 | .6 | .7 |  | 42.
Salmon | 39.2 | 12.4 | 8.1 | .9 |  | 39.4
Shad | 50.1 | 9.2 | 4.8 | .7 |  | 35.2
| Carbohydrates |  |  |  |  |
Shad, roe | 2.6 | 20.9 | 3.8 | 1.5 |  | 71.2
| Refuse |  |  |  |  |
Sheepshead | 66. | 6.4 | .2 | .5 |  | 26.9
Smelts | 41.9 | 10. | 1. | 1. |  | 46.1
Trout | 48.1 | 9.8 | 1.1 | .6 |  | 40.4
Turbot | 47.7 | 6.8 | 7.5 | .7 |  | 37.3
Whitefish | 53.5 | 10.3 | 3. | .7 |  | 32.5
|  |  |  |  | Carbohydrates |
Lobsters | 61.7 | 5.9 | .7 | .8 | .2 | 30.7
Clams, out of shell |  | 10.6 | 1.1 | 2.3 | 5.2 | 80.8
Oysters, solid |  | 6.1 | 1.4 | .9 | 3.3 | 88.3
Crabs, soft-shell |  | 15.8 | 1.5 | 2. | .7 | 80.
W. O. Atwater, Ph.D.

### Boiled Haddock

Clean and boil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Remove to a hot platter, garnish with slices of “hard-boiled” eggs and parsley, and serve with Egg Sauce. A thick piece of halibut may be boiled and served in the same way.

### Boiled Salmon

Clean and boil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Place on a hot platter, remove skin, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Serve with Egg Sauce I or II, or Hollandaise Sauce.

163

### Steamed Halibut, Silesian Sauce

Steam by cooking over boiling water a piece of halibut weighing two pounds, and serve with Silesian Sauce.

1½ tablespoons vinegar
⅛ teaspoon powdered tarragon
3 peppercorns
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
½ teaspoon finely chopped shallot
Salt and cayenne
Yolks 3 eggs
⅔ cup Brown Stock
¼ cup butter
1 tablespoon flour
½ tablespoon capers
½ tablespoon parsley

Cook first six ingredients until reduced one-half; strain, add yolks of eggs well beaten, one-half, each, brown stock and butter, and cook over hot water, stirring constantly until thickened. Then add, gradually, remaining butter mixed with flour and stock. As soon as mixture thickens, add capers, parsley finely chopped, and salt and cayenne.

### Broiled Scrod

A young cod, split down the back, and backbone removed, except a small portion near the tail, is called a scrod. Scrod are always broiled, spread with butter, and sprinkled with salt and pepper. Haddock is also so dressed.

### Broiled Chicken Halibut

Clean and broil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Spread with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and garnish with slices of lemon cut in fancy shapes and sprinkled with paprika and parsley.

### Broiled Swordfish

Clean and broil fish, spread with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve with Cucumber Sauce I, or Horseradish Sauce I.

### Broiled Shad Roe

Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put on greased wire broiler, and broil five minutes on each side. Serve with Maître d’Hôtel Butter. Mackerel roe are delicious cooked in this way.

164

### Broiled Pompano with Fricassee of Clams

Clean and broil fish as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish (see p. 160). When nearly cooked, slip from broiler onto a hot platter and brush over with melted butter. Surround with two borders of mashed potatoes, one-inch apart, forced through a pastry bag and tube. Arrange ten halves of clam-shells between potato borders, at equal distances; fill spaces between shells with potato roses. Place in oven to finish cooking fish and to brown potatoes. Just before serving, fill clam-shells with

Fricassee of Clams. Clean one pint clams, finely chop hard portions and reserve soft portions. Melt two tablespoons butter, add chopped clams, two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one-third cup cream. Strain sauce, add soft part of clams, cook one minute, season with salt and cayenne, and add yolk of one egg slightly beaten.

### Baked Haddock with Stuffing

Clean a four-pound haddock, sprinkle with salt inside and out, stuff, and sew. Cut five diagonal gashes on each side of backbone and insert narrow strips of fat salt pork, having gashes on one side come between gashes on other side. Shape with skewers in form of letter S, and fasten skewers with small twine. Place on greased fish-sheet in a dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter, dredge with flour, and place around fish small pieces of fat salt pork. Bake one hour in hot oven, basting as soon as fat is tried out, and continue basting every ten minutes. Serve with Drawn Butter, Egg or Hollandaise Sauce.

### Fish Stuffing I

½ cup cracker crumbs
½ cup stale bread crumbs
¼ cup melted butter
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Few drops onion juice
¼ cup hot water

Mix ingredients in order given.

165

### Fish Stuffing II

1 cup cracker crumbs
¼ cup melted butter
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Few drops onion juice
Parsley | 1 teaspoon each, finely chopped
Capers
Pickles

Mix ingredients in order given. This makes a dry, crumbly stuffing.

### Baked Bluefish

Clean a four-pound bluefish, stuff, sew, and bake as Baked Halibut with Stuffing, omitting to cut gashes on sides, as the fish is rich enough without addition of pork. Baste often with one-third cup butter melted in two-thirds cup boiling water. Serve with Shrimp Sauce.

### Breslin Baked Bluefish

Split and bone a bluefish, place on a well-buttered sheet, and cook twenty minutes in a hot oven. Cream one-fourth cup butter, add yolks two eggs, and when well mixed add two tablespoons, each, onion, capers, pickles, and parsley, finely chopped; two tablespoons lemon juice, one tablespoon vinegar, one-half teaspoon salt, and one-third teaspoon paprika. Sprinkle fish with salt, spread with mixture, and continue the baking until fish is done. Remove to serving dish and garnish with potato balls, cucumber ribbons, lemon cut in fancy shapes, and parsley.

### Bluefish à l’Italienne

Clean a four-pound bluefish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put on buttered fish-sheet in a dripping-pan. Add three tablespoons white wine, three tablespoons mushroom liquor, one-half onion finely chopped, eight mushrooms finely chopped, and enough water to allow sufficient liquor in pan for basting. Bake forty-five minutes in hot oven, basting five times. Serve with Sauce à l’Italienne.

### Baked Cod with Oyster Stuffing

Clean a four-pound cod, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with lemon juice, stuff, and sew. Gash, skewer, 166and bake as Baked Halibut with Stuffing. Serve with Oyster Sauce.

### Oyster Stuffing

1 cup cracker crumbs
¼ cup melted butter
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
1½ teaspoons lemon juice
½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 cup oysters

Add seasonings and butter to cracker crumbs. Clean oysters, and remove tough muscles; add soft parts to mixture, with two tablespoons oyster liquor to moisten.

### Baked Haddock with Oyster Stuffing

Remove skin, head, and tail from a four-pound haddock. Bone, leaving in large bones near head, to keep fillets in shape of the original fish. Sprinkle with salt, and brush over with lemon juice. Lay one fillet on greased fish-sheet in a dripping-pan, cover thickly with oysters, cleaned and dipped in buttered cracker crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper. Cover oysters with other fillet, brush with egg slightly beaten, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with Hollandaise Sauce I. Allow one pint oysters and one cup cracker crumbs.

### Baked Halibut with Tomato Sauce

2 lbs. halibut
2 cups tomatoes
1 cup water
1 slice onion
3 cloves
½ tablespoon sugar
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
¾ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Cook twenty minutes tomatoes, water, onion, cloves, and sugar. Melt butter, add flour, and stir into hot mixture. Add salt and pepper, cook ten minutes, and strain. Clean fish, put in baking-pan, pour around half the sauce, and bake thirty-five minutes, basting often. Remove to hot platter, pour around remaining sauce, and garnish with parsley.

### Baked Halibut with Lobster Sauce

Clean a piece of halibut weighing three pounds. Cut gashes in top, and insert a narrow strip of fat salt pork 167in each gash. Place in dripping pan on fish-sheet, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Cover bottom of pan with water, add sprig of parsley, slice of onion, two slices carrot cut in pieces, and bit of bay leaf. Bake one hour, basting with one-fourth cup butter and the liquor in pan. Serve with Lobster Sauce.

### Hollenden Halibut

Arrange six thin slices fat salt pork two and one-half inches square in a dripping-pan. Cover with one small onion, thinly sliced, and add a bit of bay leaf. Wipe a two-pound piece of chicken halibut and place over pork and onion. Mask with three tablespoons butter creamed and mixed with three tablespoons flour. Cover with three-fourths cup buttered cracker crumbs and arrange thin strips of fat salt pork over crumbs. Cover with buttered paper and bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven, removing paper during the last fifteen minutes of the cooking to brown crumbs. Remove to hot serving dish and garnish with slices of lemon cut in fancy shapes sprinkled with finely chopped parsley and paprika.

### Baked Mackerel

Split fish, clean, and remove head and tail. Put in buttered dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dot over with butter (allowing one tablespoon to a medium-sized fish), and pour over two-thirds cup milk. Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven.

### Planked Shad or Whitefish

Clean and split a three-pound shad. Put skin side down on an oak plank one inch thick, and a little longer and wider than the fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with melted butter. Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven. Remove from oven, spread with butter, and garnish with parsley and lemon. The fish should be sent to the table on plank. Planked Shad is well cooked in a gas range having the flame over the fish.

The Planked Whitefish of the Great Lakes has gained much favor.

168

### Planked Shad with Creamed Roe

Select a roe shad and prepare same as Planked Shad. Parboil roe in salted, acidulated water twenty minutes. Remove outside membrane, and mash. Melt three tablespoons butter, add one teaspoon finely chopped shallot, and cook five minutes; add roe, sprinkle with one and one-half tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one-third cup cream. Cook slowly five minutes, add two egg yolks and season highly with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Remove shad from oven, spread thin part with roe mixture, cover with buttered crumbs, and return to oven to brown crumbs. Garnish with mashed potatoes forced through a pastry bag and tube, small tomatoes, slices of lemon and parsley.

### Planked Haddock

Skin and bone a haddock, leaving meat in two fillets. Sauté fillets separately, using a generous quantity of butter and cooking until well browned on one side. Remove to planks, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Garnish with mashed potatoes, outlining the original shape of the fish, making as prominent as possible head, tail, and fins. Bake until potatoes are well browned, when fish should be thoroughly cooked. Finish garnishing with parsley and slices of lemon sprinkled with finely chopped parsley.

### Baked Stuffed Smelts

Clean and wipe as dry as possible twelve selected smelts. Stuff, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon juice. Place in buttered shallow plate, cover with buttered paper, and bake five minutes in hot oven. Remove from oven, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. Serve with Sauce Bearnaise.

Stuffing. Cook one tablespoon finely chopped onion with one tablespoon butter three minutes. Add one-fourth cup finely chopped mushrooms, one-fourth cup soft part of oysters (parboiled, drained, and chopped), one-half teaspoon chopped parsley, three tablespoons Thick White Sauce, and one-half cup Fish Force-meat.

169

### Smelts à la Langtry

Split and bone eight selected smelts. Cut off tails, and from tail ends of fish turn meat over one inch onto flesh side. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon juice. Garnish with Fish Force-meat forced through a pastry bag and tube, and fasten heads with skewers to keep in an upright position. Arrange in a buttered pan, and pour around white wine. Cover with buttered paper, and bake from fifteen to twenty minutes. Just before taking from oven, sprinkle with lobster coral forced through a strainer. Serve with Aurora Sauce.

Aurora Sauce. Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half cups cream and one tablespoon meat extract. Season with salt and cayenne, and add lobster coral and one-half cup lobster dice.

### Baked Shad Roe with Tomato Sauce

Cook shad roe fifteen minutes in boiling salted water to cover, with one-half tablespoon vinegar; drain, cover with cold water, and let stand five minutes. Remove from cold water, and place on buttered pan with three-fourths cup Tomato Sauce I or II. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven, basting every five minutes. Remove to a platter, and pour around three-fourths cup Tomato Sauce.

### Baked Fillets of Bass or Halibut

Cut bass or halibut into small fillets, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put into a shallow pan, cover with buttered paper, and bake twelve minutes in hot oven. Arrange on a rice border, garnish with parsley, and serve with Hollandaise Sauce II.

### Fillets of Halibut with Brown Sauce

Cut a slice of halibut weighing one and one-half pounds in eight short fillets, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put in greased pan, and bake five minutes; drain, pour over one and one-half cups Brown Sauce I, cover with one-half cup buttered cracker crumbs, and bake.

170

### Fillets of Haddock, White Wine Sauce

Skin a three and one-half pound haddock, and cut in fillets. Arrange in buttered baking-pan, pour around fish three tablespoons melted butter, three-fourths cup white wine to which has been added one-half tablespoon lemon juice, and two slices onion. Cover and bake. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons flour, and pour on liquor drained from fish; then add one-half cup Fish Stock (made from head, tail, and bones of fish), two tablespoons heavy cream, yolks two eggs, salt, and pepper. Remove fillets to serving dish, pour over sauce strained through cheese-cloth, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

### Halibut à la Poulette

A slice of halibut, weighing 1½ lbs.
¼ cup melted butter
⅛ teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Few drops onion juice
¼ teaspoon salt

Clean fish and cut in eight fillets. Add seasonings to melted butter, and put dish containing butter in saucepan of hot water to keep butter melted. Take up each fillet separately with a fork, dip in butter-roll and fasten with a small wooden skewer. Put in a shallow pan, dredge with flour, and bake twelve minutes in hot oven. Remove skewers, arrange on platter for serving, pour around one and one-half cups Béchamel Sauce, and garnish with yolks of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed through a strainer, whites of hard-boiled eggs cut in strips, lemon cut fan-shaped, and parsley.

### Moulded Fish, Normandy Sauce

Remove skin and bones from a thick piece of halibut, finely chop fish, and force through a sieve (there should be one and one-third cups). Pound in mortar, adding gradually whites two eggs. Add one and one-fourth cups heavy cream, and salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. Turn into a buttered fish-mould, cover with buttered paper, set in pan of hot water, and bake until fish is firm. Turn on serving dish and surround with

Planked Haddock.—Page 168.

Fillets of Fish à la Bement.—Page 171.

Oyster Cocktail I.—Page 180.

Oyster Cocktail II.—Page 180.

171 Normandy Sauce. Cook skin and bones of fish with three slices carrot, one slice onion, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, and two cups cold water, thirty minutes, and strain; there should be one cup. Melt two tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, fish stock, one-third cup heavy cream, and yolks two eggs. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne, and Sauterne.

### Halibut à la Martin

Clean two slices chicken halibut and cut into eight fillets. Season with salt and brush over with lemon juice. Arrange on a tin plate covered with cheese-cloth, fold cheese-cloth over fillets, and cook in steamer fifteen minutes. Remove to serving dish, garnish with small shrimps, and pour around sauce, following directions for Normandy Sauce, omitting Sauterne, and seasoning to taste with grated cheese and Madeira.

### Fillets of Fish à la Bement

Prepare and cook fish same as for Halibut à la Martin. Insert tip of small lobster claw in each fillet, and garnish with a thin slice of canned mushroom sprinkled with parsley and a thin circular slice of truffle. Serve with

Lobster Sauce III. Remove meat from a one and one-half pound lobster and cut claw meat in cubes. Cover remaining meat and body bones with cold water. Add one-half small onion, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, and one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, and cook until stock is reduced to one cup. Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually the stock; then add one-half cup heavy cream and yolks two eggs. Season with salt, lemon juice, and paprika; then add lobster cubes.

### Halibut à la Rarebit

Sprinkle two small slices halibut with salt, pepper, and lemon juice; then brush over with melted butter, place in dripping-pan on greased fish-sheet, and bake twelve minutes. Remove to hot platter for serving, and pour over it a Welsh Rarebit.

172

### Sandwiches of Chicken Halibut

Cut chicken halibut in thin fillets. Put together in pairs, with Fish or Chicken Force-meat between, first dipping fillets in melted butter seasoned with salt and pepper and brushing over with lemon juice. Place in shallow pan with one-fourth cup white wine. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven. Arrange on hot platter for serving, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, garnish with Tomato Jelly, and serve with Hollandaise Sauce.

### Sole à la Bercy

Skin and bone two large flounders, and cut into eight fillets. Put into a buttered pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, and add one-fourth cup white wine. Cover and cook fifteen minutes. Remove to serving dish, pour over Bercy Sauce, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

Bercy Sauce. Fry one tablespoon finely chopped shallot in one tablespoon butter five minutes; add two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually the liquor left in pan with enough White Stock to make one cup. Add two tablespoons butter, and salt and cayenne to taste.

### Halibut au Lit

Wipe two slices chicken halibut, each weighing three-fourths pound. Cut one piece in eight fillets, sprinkle with salt and lemon juice, roll and fasten with small wooden skewers. Cook over boiling water. Cut remaining slice in pieces about the size and shape of scallops. Dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Arrange a steamed fillet in centre of each fish-plate, place on top of each a cooked mushroom cap, and put fried fish at both right and left of fillet. Serve with Mushroom Sauce, and garnish with watercress and radishes cut in fancy shapes.

Mushroom Sauce. Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, one cup Fish Stock. When boiling-point is reached, add one-half cup cream, three mushroom caps, sliced, and one tablespoon Sauterne. Season with salt and pepper. The Fish Stock should be made from skin and bones 173of halibut. The mushroom caps on fillets should be cooked in sauce until soft.

### Fried Cod Steaks

Clean steaks, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dip in granulated corn meal. Try out slices of fat salt pork in frying-pan, remove scraps, and sauté steaks in fat.

### Fried Smelts

Clean smelts, leaving on heads and tails. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, and fry three to four minutes in deep fat. As soon as smelts are put into fat, remove fat to back of range so that they may not become too brown before cooked through. Arrange on hot platter, garnish with parsley, lemon, and fried gelatine. Serve with Sauce Tartare.

Smelts are fried without being skewered, but often are skewered in variety of shapes.

To fry gelatine. Take up a handful and drop in hot, deep fat; it will immediately swell and become white; it should at once be removed with a skimmer, then drained.

Phosphated or granulated gelatine cannot be used for frying.

### Smelts à la Menière

Clean six selected smelts, and cut five diagonal gashes on each side. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, cover, and let stand ten minutes. Roll in cream, dip in flour, and sauté in butter. Add to butter in pan two tablespoons flour, one cup White Stock, one and one-third teaspoons Anchovy Essence, and a few drops lemon juice. Just before sauce is poured around smelts, add one and one-half tablespoons butter and one teaspoon finely chopped parsley.

### Fried Fillets of Halibut or Flounder

Clean fish and cut in long or short fillets. If cut in long fillets, roll, and fasten with small wooden skewers. Sprinkle fillets with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with Sauce Tartare.

174

### Fried Fish, Russian Style, Mushroom Sauce

Cut two slices chicken halibut in fillets, sprinkle fillets with salt and pepper, pour over one-third cup white wine, cover, and let stand thirty minutes. Drain, dip each piece separately in heavy cream, then in flour, and fry in deep fat. Cook skin and bones removed from fish with five slices carrot, two slices onion, sprig parsley, bit of bay leaf, one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, and two cups cold water until reduced to one cup liquid. Make sauce of two tablespoons butter, three tablespoons flour, the fish stock, and one-third cup heavy cream. Add yolks two eggs, salt, pepper, cayenne, and white wine to taste.

Arrange fish on serving dish, cover with one-half pound mushroom caps cleaned, then sautéd in butter, and pour over sauce.

### Fried Eels

Clean eels, cut in two-inch pieces, and parboil eight minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in corn meal, and sauté in pork fat.

### Fried Stuffed Smelts

Smelts are stuffed as for Baked Stuffed Smelts, dipped in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fried in deep fat, and served with Sauce Tartare.

### Fried Shad Roe

Parboil and cook shad roe as for Baked Shad Roe. Cut in pieces, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon juice. Dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain.

### Soft-shell Crabs

Clean crabs, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Being light, they will rise to top of fat, and should be turned while frying. Soft-shell crabs are usually fried. Serve with Sauce Tartare.

To Clean a Crab. Lift and fold back the tapering points which are found on each side of the back shell, and remove spongy substance that lies under them. Turn crab on its 175back, and with a pointed knife remove the small piece at lower part of shell, which terminates in a point; this is called the apron.

### Frogs’ Hind Legs

Trim and clean. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, then fry three minutes in deep fat, and drain.

### Terrapin

To prepare terrapin for cooking, plunge into boiling water and boil five minutes. Lift out of water with skimmer, and remove skin from feet and tail by rubbing with a towel. Draw out head with a skewer, and rub off skin.

To Cook Terrapin. Put in a kettle, cover with boiling salted water, add two slices each of carrot and onion, and a stalk of celery. Cook until meat is tender, which may be determined by pressing feet-meat between thumb and finger. The time required will be from thirty-five to forty minutes. Remove from water, cool, draw out nails from feet, cut under shell close to upper shell and remove. Empty upper shell and carefully remove and discard gall-bladder, sandbags, and thick, heavy part of intestines. Any of the gall-bladder would give a bitter flavor to the dish. The liver, small intestines, and eggs are used with the meat.

### Terrapin à la Baltimore

1 terrapin
¾ cup White Stock
1½ tablespoons wine
Cayenne
1½ tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
Yolks 2 eggs

To stock and wine add terrapin meat, with bones cut in pieces and entrails cut in smaller pieces; then cook slowly until liquor is reduced one-half. Add liver separated in pieces, eggs, butter, salt, pepper, and cayenne.

### Terrapin à la Maryland

Add to Terrapin à la Baltimore one tablespoon each butter and flour creamed together, one-half cup cream, yolks two eggs slightly beaten, and one teaspoon lemon juice; then add, just before serving, one tablespoon Sherry wine. Pour in a deep dish and garnish with toast or puff paste points.

176

### Washington Terrapin

1 terrapin
1½ tablespoons butter
1½ tablespoons flour
1 cup cream
½ cup chopped mushrooms
Salt
Few grains cayenne
2 eggs
2 tablespoons Sherry wine

Melt the butter, add flour, and pour on slowly the cream. Add terrapin meat with bones cut in pieces, entrails cut smaller, liver separated in pieces, eggs of terrapin, and mushrooms. Season with salt and cayenne. Just before serving, add eggs slightly beaten and two tablespoons Sherry wine.

### WAYS OF USING REMNANTS OF COOKED FISH

#### Fish à la Crême

1¾ cups cold flaked fish (cod, haddock, halibut, or cusk)
1 cup White Sauce I
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
½ slice onion
Salt and pepper
½ cup buttered cracker crumbs

Scald milk, for the making of White Sauce, with bay leaf, parsley, and onion. Cover the bottom of small buttered platter with one-half of the fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pour over one-half the sauce; repeat. Cover with crumbs, and bake in hot oven until crumbs are brown. Fish à la crême, baked in scallop shells, makes an attractive luncheon dish, or may be served for a fish course at dinner.

#### Turban of Fish

2½ cups cold flaked fish (cod, haddock, halibut, or cusk)
1½ cups milk
1 slice onion
Blade of mace
Sprig of parsley
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Lemon juice
Yolks 2 eggs
⅔ cup buttered cracker crumbs

Scald milk with onion, mace, and parsley; remove seasonings. Melt butter, add flour, salt, pepper, and gradually the milk; then add eggs, slightly beaten. Put a layer of fish on 177buttered dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add a few drops of lemon juice. Cover with sauce, continuing until fish and sauce are used, shaping in pyramid form. Cover with crumbs, and bake in hot oven until crumbs are brown.

#### Fish Hash

Take equal parts of cold flaked fish and cold boiled potatoes finely chopped. Season with salt and pepper. Try out fat salt pork, remove scraps, leaving enough fat in pan to moisten fish and potatoes. Put in fish and potatoes, stir until heated, then cook until well browned underneath; fold, and turn like an omelet.

#### Fish Croquettes

To one and one-half cups cold flaked halibut or salmon add one cup thick White Sauce. Season with salt and pepper, and spread on a plate to cool. Shape, roll in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat; drain, arrange on hot dish for serving, and garnish with parsley. If salmon is used, add lemon juice and finely chopped parsley.

#### Fish and Egg Croquettes

Make same as Fish Croquettes, using one cup fish and three “hard-boiled” eggs finely chopped.

#### Scalloped Cod

Line a buttered baking-dish with cold flaked cod, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with a layer of oysters (first dipped in melted butter, seasoned with onion juice, lemon juice, and a few grains of cayenne, and then in cracker crumbs), add three tablespoons oyster liquor; repeat, and cover with buttered cracker crumbs. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven. Serve with Egg or Hollandaise Sauce I.

#### Salmon Box

Line a bread pan, slightly buttered, with warm steamed rice. Fill the centre with cold boiled salmon, flaked, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and a slight grating of nutmeg. Cover with rice and steam one hour. Turn on a hot platter for serving, and pour around Egg Sauce II.

178

### WAYS OF COOKING SALT FISH

#### Creamed Salt Codfish

Pick salt codfish in pieces (there should be three-fourths cup), and soak in lukewarm water, the time depending upon hardness and saltness of the fish. Drain, and add one cup White Sauce I. Add one beaten egg just before sending to table. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Creamed Codfish is better made with cream slightly thickened in place of White Sauce.

#### Fish Balls

1 cup salt codfish
2 heaping cups potatoes
1 egg
½ tablespoon butter
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Wash fish in cold water, and pick in very small pieces, or cut, using scissors. Wash, pare, and soak potatoes, cutting in pieces of uniform size before measuring. Cook fish and potatoes in boiling water to cover until potatoes are soft. Drain through strainer, return to kettle in which they were cooked, mash thoroughly (being sure there are no lumps left in potato), add butter, egg well beaten, and pepper. Beat with a fork two minutes. Add salt if necessary. Take up by spoonfuls, put in frying-basket, and fry one minute in deep fat, allowing six fish balls for each frying; drain on brown paper. Reheat the fat after each frying.

#### Salted Codfish Hash

Prepare as for Fish Balls, omitting egg. Try out fat salt pork, remove scraps, leaving enough fat in pan to moisten fish and potatoes. Put in fish and potatoes, stir until heated, then cook until well browned underneath; fold, and turn like an omelet.

#### Toasted Salt Fish

Pick salt codfish in long thin strips. If very salt, it may need to be freshened by standing for a short time in lukewarm water. Place on a greased wire broiler, and broil until brown on one side; turn, and brown the other. Remove to platter, and spread with butter.

179

#### Kippered Herrings

Remove fish from can, and arrange on a platter that may be put in the oven; sprinkle with pepper, brush over with lemon juice and melted butter, and pour over the liquor left in can. Heat thoroughly, and garnish with parsley and slices of lemon.

#### Baked Finnan Haddie

Put fish in dripping-pan, surround with milk and water in equal proportions, place on back of range, where it will heat slowly. Let stand twenty-five minutes; pour off liquid, spread with butter, and bake twenty-five minutes.

#### Broiled Finnan Haddie

Broil in a greased broiler until brown on both sides. Remove to a pan, and cover with hot water; let stand ten minutes, drain, and place on a platter. Spread with butter, and sprinkle with pepper.

#### Finnan Haddie à la Delmonico

Cut fish in strips (there should be one cup), put in baking-pan, cover with cold water, place on back of range and allow water to heat to boiling-point; let stand on range, keeping water below boiling-point for twenty-five minutes, drain, and rinse thoroughly. Separate fish into flakes, add one-half cup heavy cream and four “hard-boiled” eggs thinly sliced. Season with cayenne, add one tablespoon butter, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

### WAYS OF COOKING SHELLFISH

#### Oysters on the Half Shell

Serve oysters on deep halves of the shells, allowing six to each person. Arrange on plates of crushed ice, with one-fourth of a lemon in the centre of each plate.

#### Raw Oysters

Raw oysters are served on oyster plates, or in a block of ice. Place block of ice on a folded napkin on platter, and 180garnish the base with parsley and quarters of lemon, or ferns and lemon.

To Block Ice for Oysters. Use a rectangular piece of clear ice, and with hot flatirons melt a cavity large enough to hold the oysters. Pour water from cavity as rapidly as it forms.

#### Oyster Cocktail I

8 small raw oysters
1 tablespoon tomato catsup
½ tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice
2 drops Tabasco
Salt
1 teaspoon celery, finely chopped
½ teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce

Mix ingredients, chill thoroughly, and serve in cocktail glasses, or cases made from green peppers placed on a bed of crushed ice.

#### Oyster Cocktail II

6 small raw oysters
Tabasco Sauce
Lemon juice
Salt
Grape fruit

Cut grape fruit in halves crosswise, remove tough portions, and add oysters seasoned with Tabasco, lemon juice, and salt.

#### Oyster Cocktail III

Allow seven Blue Point oysters to each person, and season with three-fourth tablespoon lemon juice, one-half tablespoon tomato catsup, one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot, three drops Tabasco sauce, few gratings horseradish root, and salt to taste. Chill thoroughly and serve in cocktail glasses. Sprinkle with finely chopped celery and garnish with small pieces of red and green pepper.

#### Roasted Oysters

Oysters for roasting should be bought in the shell. Wash thoroughly, scrubbing with a brush. Put in a dripping-pan, and cook in a hot oven until shells part. Open, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve in the deep halves of the shells.

181

#### Oysters à la Ballard

Arrange oysters on the half shell in a dripping-pan, and bake in a hot oven until edges curl. Allow six to each serve, pouring over the following sauce:

Mix three-fourths tablespoon melted butter, three-fourths teaspoon each lemon juice and Sauterne, few drops Tabasco, one-fourth teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and salt and paprika to taste. Before putting ingredients in bowl, rub inside of bowl with a clove of garlic.

#### Panned Oysters

Clean one pint large oysters. Place in dripping-pan small oblong pieces of toast, put an oyster on each piece, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and bake until oysters are plump. Serve with Lemon Butter.

Lemon Butter. Cream three tablespoons butter, add one-half teaspoon salt, one tablespoon lemon juice, and a few grains cayenne.

#### Fancy Roast

Clean one pint oysters and drain from their liquor. Put in a stewpan and cook until oysters are plump and edges begin to curl. Shake pan to prevent oysters from adhering to pan, or stir with a fork. Season with salt, pepper, and two tablespoons butter, and pour over four small slices of toast. Garnish with toast points and parsley.

#### Oyster Fricassee

1 pint oysters
Milk or cream
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1 egg

Clean oysters, heat oyster liquor to boiling-point, and strain through double thickness of cheese-cloth; add oysters to liquor and cook until plump. Remove oysters with skimmer and add enough cream to liquor to make a cupful. Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually hot liquid; add salt, cayenne, parsley, oysters, and egg slightly beaten.

182

#### Creamed Oysters

1 pint oysters
1½ cups White Sauce II
⅛ teaspoon celery salt

Clean, and cook oysters until plump and edges begin to curl; drain, and add to White Sauce seasoned with celery salt. Serve on toast, in timbale cases, patty shells, or vol-au-vents. One-fourth cup sliced mushrooms are often added to Creamed Oysters.

#### Oysters in Brown Sauce

1 pint oysters
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 cup oyster liquor
½ cup milk
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Anchovy essence
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Parboil and drain oysters, reserve liquor, heat, strain, and set aside for sauce. Brown butter, add flour, and stir until well browned; then add oyster liquor, milk, seasonings, and oysters. For filling patty cases or vol-au-vents.

#### Savory Oysters

1 pint of oysters
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
1 cup oyster liquor
½ cup Brown Stock
1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
Few drops onion juice
Salt
Pepper

Clean oysters, parboil, and drain. Melt butter, add flour, and stir until well browned. Pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, oyster liquor and stock. Add seasonings and oysters. Serve on toast, in timbale cases, patty shells, or vol-au-vents.

#### Oysters à la Astor

1 pint oysters
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon finely chopped shallot
1 tablespoon finely cut red pepper
2 tablespoons flour
1½ teaspoons lemon juice
1½ teaspoons vinegar
1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
½ teaspoon beef extract
Salt and paprika

Wash and pick over oysters, parboil, drain, and to liquor add enough water to make one cup liquid; then strain 183through cheese-cloth. Cook butter, shallot, and pepper three minutes, add flour, and pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, oyster liquor. Add seasonings and oysters. Remove oysters to small pieces of bread sautéd in butter on one side. Pour sauce over oysters and garnish with thin slices of cucumber pickles.

#### Broiled Oysters

1 pint selected oysters
¼ cup melted butter
⅔ cup seasoned cracker crumbs

Clean oysters and dry between towels. Lift with plated fork by the tough muscle and dip in butter, then in cracker crumbs which have been seasoned with salt and pepper. Place in a buttered wire broiler and broil over a clear fire until juices flow, turning while broiling. Serve with or without Maître d’Hôtel Butter.

#### Oyster Toast

Serve Broiled Oysters on small pieces of Milk Toast. Sprinkle with finely chopped celery.

#### Oysters and Macaroni

1 pint oysters
¾ cup macaroni broken in 1 inch pieces
Salt and pepper
Flour
½ cup buttered crumbs
¼ cup butter

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until soft; drain, and rinse with cold water. Put a layer in bottom of a buttered pudding-dish, cover with oysters, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and dot over with one-half of the butter; repeat, and cover with buttered crumbs. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven.

#### Scalloped Oysters

1 pint oysters
4 tablespoons oyster liquor
2 tablespoons milk or cream
½ cup stale bread crumbs
1 cup cracker crumbs
½ cup melted butter
Salt
Pepper

Mix bread and cracker crumbs, and stir in butter. Put a thin layer in bottom of a buttered shallow baking-dish, cover with oysters, and sprinkle with salt and pepper; add one-half 184each oyster liquor and cream. Repeat, and cover top with remaining crumbs. Bake thirty minutes in hot oven. Never allow more than two layers of oysters for Scalloped Oysters; if three layers are used, the middle layer will be underdone, while others are properly cooked. A sprinkling of mace or grated nutmeg to each layer is considered by many an improvement. Sherry wine may be used in place of cream.

#### Sautéd Oysters

Clean one pint oysters, sprinkle on both sides with salt and pepper. Take up by the tough muscle with plated fork and dip in cracker crumbs. Put two tablespoons butter in hot frying-pan, add oysters, brown on one side, then turn and brown on the other.

#### Oysters with Bacon

Clean oysters, wrap a thin slice of bacon around each, and fasten with small wooden skewers. Put in a broiler, place broiler over dripping-pan, and bake in a hot oven until bacon is crisp and brown, turning broiler once during the cooking. Drain on brown paper.

#### Fried Oysters

Clean, and dry between towels, selected oysters. Season with salt and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and cracker or stale bread crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Drain on brown paper and serve on a folded napkin. Garnish with parsley and serve with or without Sauce Tyrolienne.

#### Fried Oysters in Batter

Clean, and dry between towels, selected oysters. Dip in batter, fry in deep fat, drain, and serve on a folded napkin; garnish with lemon and parsley. Oysters may be parboiled, drained, and then fried.

#### Batter

2 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
1 cup bread flour
¾ cup milk

Beat eggs until light, add salt and pepper. Add milk slowly to flour, stir until smooth and well mixed. Combine mixtures.

185

#### Fried Oysters. Philadelphia Relish

Follow directions for Fried Oysters. Serve with Philadelphia Relish.

2 cups cabbage, finely shredded
2 green peppers, finely chopped
1 teaspoon celery seed
¼ teaspoon mustard seed
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons brown sugar
¼ cup vinegar

Mix ingredients in order given.

#### Little Neck Clams

Little Neck Clams are served raw on the half shell, in same manner as raw oysters.

#### Steamed Clams

Clams for steaming should be bought in the shell and always be alive. Wash clams thoroughly, scrubbing with a brush, changing the water several times. Put into a large kettle, allowing one-half cup hot water to four quarts clams; cover closely, and steam until shells partially open, care being taken that they are not overdone. Serve with individual dishes of melted butter. Some prefer a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar added to the butter. If a small quantity of boiling water is put into the dishes, the melted butter will float on top and remain hot much longer.

#### Roasted Clams

Roasted clams are served at Clam Bakes. Clams are washed in sea-water, placed on stones which have been previously heated by burning wood on them, ashes removed, and stones sprinkled with thin layer of seaweed. Clams are piled on stones, covered with seaweed, and a piece of canvas thrown over them to retain the steam.

#### Clams, Union League

Fry one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot in one and one-half tablespoons butter five minutes; add eighteen clams and one-half cup white wine. Cook until the shells open. Remove clams from shells and reduce liquor to one-third cupful. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons 186flour, and pour on gradually the clam liquor; add one-fourth cup cream and the clams, season with salt and pepper. Refill clam-shells, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve on each a square piece of fried bacon.

#### Clams à la Grand Union

Clean and dry selected clams, dip in batter, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve on small slices of cream toast, seasoned with salt, celery salt, pepper, and cayenne.

Batter. Mix and sift one cup bread flour, one-half teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. Add gradually two-thirds cup milk, and two eggs well beaten.

#### Fried Scallops

Clean one quart scallops, turn into a saucepan, and cook until they begin to shrivel; drain, and dry between towels. Season with salt and pepper, roll in fine crumbs, dip in egg, again in crumbs, and fry two minutes in deep fat; then drain on brown paper.

### Plain Lobster

Remove lobster meat from shell, arrange on platter, and garnish with small claws. If two lobsters are opened, stand tail shells (put together) in centre of platter, and arrange meat around them.

### Lobster Cocktail

Allow one-fourth cup lobster meat, cut in pieces, for each cocktail, and season with two tablespoons, each, tomato catsup and Sherry wine, one tablespoon lemon juice, six drops Tabasco Sauce, one-eighth teaspoon finely chopped chives, and salt to taste. Chill thoroughly, and serve in cocktail glasses.

### Fried Lobster

Remove lobster meat from shell. Use tail meat, divided in fourths, and large pieces of claw meat. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lemon juice; dip in crumbs, egg, and again in crumbs; fry in deep fat, drain, and serve with Sauce Tartare.

Clams Union League.—Page 185.

Oysters à la Ballard.—Page 181.

Lobster Cocktail.—Page 186.

Fruit Cocktail.—Page 569.

187

### Buttered Lobster

2 lb. lobster
3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
Lemon juice

Remove lobster meat from shell and chop slightly. Melt butter, add lobster, and when heated, season and serve garnished with lobster claws.

### Scalloped Lobster

2 lb. lobster
1½ cups White Sauce II
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
2 teaspoons lemon juice

Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in cubes. Heat in White Sauce and add seasonings. Refill lobster shells, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. To prevent lobster shells from curling over lobster while baking, insert small wooden skewers of sufficient length to keep shell in its original shape. To assist in preserving color of shell, brush over with olive oil before putting into oven. Scalloped lobster may be baked in buttered scallop shells, or in a buttered baking-dish.

### Devilled Lobster

Scalloped lobster highly seasoned is served as Devilled Lobster. Use larger proportions of same seasonings, with the addition of mustard.

### Curried Lobster

Prepare as Scalloped Lobster, adding to flour one-half teaspoon curry powder when making White Sauce.

### Lobster Farci

1 cup chopped lobster meat
Yolks 2 “hard-boiled” eggs
½ tablespoon chopped parsley
1 cup White Sauce I
Slight grating nutmeg
⅓ cup buttered crumbs
Salt
Pepper

To lobster meat add yolks of eggs rubbed to a paste, parsley, sauce, and seasonings to taste. Fill lobster shells, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

188

### Lobster and Oyster Filling

(For Patties or Vol-au-Vent)
1 pint oysters
1¼ lb. lobster
1½ cups cold water
1 stalk celery
1 slice onion
Salt
¼ cup butter
⅓ cup flour
¾ cup cream
Worcestershire Sauce
Lemon juice
Paprika

Clean and parboil oysters; drain, and add to liquor body bones and tough claw meat from lobster, water, celery, and onion. Cook slowly until stock is reduced to one cup, and strain. Make sauce of butter, flour, strained stock, and cream. Add oysters and lobster meat cut in strips; then add seasonings. One-half teaspoon beef extract is an improvement to this dish.

### Fricassee of Lobster and Mushrooms

2 lb. lobster
¼ cup butter
¾ lb. mushrooms
Few drops onion juice
¼ cup flour
1½ cups milk
Salt
Paprika
2 tablespoons Sherry wine

Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in strips. Cook butter with mushrooms broken in pieces and onion juice three minutes; add flour, and pour on gradually milk. Add lobster meat, season with salt and paprika, and, as soon as lobster is heated, add wine. Remove to serving dish, and garnish with puff paste or toast points and parsley.

### Lobster and Oyster Ragout

¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
¾ cup oyster liquor
¾ cup cream
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
Few grains cayenne
Few drops onion juice
1 pint oysters parboiled
¾ cup lobster dice
1½ tablespoons Sauterne
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Make a sauce of first eight ingredients. Add oysters, lobster dice, wine, and parsley.

189

### Stuffed Lobster à la Béchamel

2 lb. lobster
1½ cups milk
Bit of bay leaf
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Slight grating nutmeg
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Yolks 2 eggs
½ cup buttered crumbs

Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in dice. Scald milk with bay leaf, remove bay leaf and make a white sauce of butter, flour, and milk; add salt, cayenne, nutmeg, parsley, yolks of eggs slightly beaten, and lemon juice. Add lobster dice, refill shells, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. One-half chicken stock and one-half cream may be used for sauce if a richer dish is desired.

### Broiled Live Lobster

Live lobsters may be dressed for broiling at market, or may be done at home. Clean lobster and place in a buttered wire broiler. Broil eight minutes on flesh side, turn and broil six minutes on shell side. Serve with melted butter. Lobsters taste nearly the same when placed in dripping-pan and baked fifteen minutes in hot oven, and are much easier cooked.

To Split a Live Lobster. Cross large claws and hold firmly with left hand. With sharp-pointed knife, held in right hand, begin at the mouth and make a deep incision, and, with a sharp cut, draw the knife quickly through body and entire length of tail. Open lobster, remove intestinal vein, liver, and stomach, and crack claw shells with a mallet.

### Baked Live Lobster. Devilled Sauce.

Prepare lobster same as for Broiled Live Lobster and place in a dripping-pan. Cook liver of lobster with one tablespoon butter three minutes. Season highly with salt, cayenne, and Worcestershire Sauce. Spread over lobster, and bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes. Remove to platter and serve at once, allowing over one and one-half pound lobster to each person.

190

### Live Lobster en Brochette

Split a live lobster, remove meat from tail and large claws, cut in pieces, and arrange on skewers, alternating pieces with small slices of bacon. Fry in deep fat and drain. Cook liver of lobster with one tablespoon butter three minutes, season highly with mustard and cayenne, and serve with lobster.

### Lobster à l’Américaine

Split a live lobster and put in a large omelet pan, sprinkle with one-fourth onion finely chopped and a few grains of cayenne and cook five minutes. Add one-half cup Tomato Sauce II and cook three minutes; then add two tablespoons Sherry wine, cover, and cook in oven seven minutes. To the liver add one tablespoon wine, two tablespoons Tomato Sauce, and one-half tablespoon melted butter; heat in pan after lobster has been removed. As soon as sauce is heated, strain, and pour over lobster.

### Lobster à la Muisset

Cut two one and one-half pound live lobsters in pieces for serving and crack large claws. Cook one tablespoon finely chopped shallot and three tablespoons chopped carrot in two tablespoons butter ten minutes, stirring constantly that carrots may not burn. Add two sprigs thyme, one-half bay leaf, two red peppers from pepper sauce, one teaspoon salt, one and one-third cups Brown Stock, two-thirds cup stewed and strained tomatoes, and three tablespoons Sherry wine. Add lobster and cook fifteen minutes. Remove lobster to serving dish, thicken sauce with butter and flour cooked together, and add one and one-half tablespoons brandy. Pour sauce around lobster, and sprinkle all with finely chopped chives.

191

## CHAPTER XII
BEEF

Meat is the name applied to the flesh of all animals used for food. Beef is the meat of steer, ox, or cow, and is the most nutritious and largely consumed of all animal foods. Meat is chiefly composed of the albuminoids (fibrin, albumen, gelatin), fat, mineral matter, and water.

Fibrin is that substance in blood which causes it to coagulate when shed. It consists of innumerable delicate fibrils which entangle the blood corpuscles, and form with them a mass called blood clot. Fibrin is insoluble in both cold and hot water.

Albumen is a substance found in the blood and muscle. It is soluble in cold water, and is coagulated by hot water or heat. It begins to coagulate at 134° F. and becomes solid at 160° F. Here lies the necessity of cooking meat in hot water at a low temperature; of broiling meat at a high temperature, to quickly sear surface.

Gelatin in its raw state is termed collagen. It is a transparent, tasteless substance, obtained by boiling with water, muscle, skin, cartilage, bone, tendon, ligament, or membrane of animals. By this process, collagen of connective tissues is dissolved and converted into gelatin. Gelatin is insoluble in cold water, soluble in hot water, but in boiling water is decomposed, and by much boiling will not solidify on cooling. When subjected to cold water it swells, and is called hydrated gelatin. Myosin is the albuminoid of muscle, collagen of tendons, ossein of bones, and chondrin of cartilage and gristle.

Gelatin, although highly nitrogenous, does not act in the system as other nitrogenous foods, as a large quantity passes out unchanged.

192 Fat is the white or yellowish oily solid substance forming the chief part of the adipose tissue. Fat is found in thick layers directly under the skin, in other parts of the body, in bone, and is intermingled throughout the flesh. Fat as food is a great heat-giver and force-producer. Suet is the name given to fat which lies about the loins and kidneys. Beef suet tried out and clarified is much used in cookery for shortening and frying.

Mineral Matter. The largest amount of mineral matter is found in bone. It is principally calcium phosphate (phosphate of lime). Sodium chloride (common salt) is found in the blood and throughout the tissues.

Water abounds in all animals, constituting a large percentage of their weight.

The color of meat is due to the coloring matter (hæmoglobin) which abounds in the red corpuscles of the blood.

The distinctive flavor of meat is principally due to peptones and allied substances, and is intensified by the presence of sodium chloride and other salts.

The beef creature is divided by splitting through the backbone in two parts, each part being called a side of beef. Four hundred and fifty pounds is good market weight for a side of beef.

The most expensive cuts come from that part of the creature where muscles are but little used, which makes the meat finer-grained and consequently more tender, taking less time for cooking. Many of the cheapest cuts, though equally nutritious, need long, slow cooking to render them tender enough to digest easily. Tough meat which has long and coarse fibres is often found to be very juicy, on account of the greater motion of that part of the creature, which causes the juices to flow freely. Roasting and broiling, which develop so fine a flavor, can only be applied to the more expensive cuts. The liver, kidneys, and heart are of firm, close texture, and difficult of digestion. Tripe, which is the first stomach of the ox, is easy of digestion, but on account of the large amount of fat which it contains, it is undesirable for those of weak digestion.

The quality of beef depends on age of the creature and 193manner of feeding. The best beef is obtained from a steer of four or five years. Good beef should be firm and of fine-grained texture, bright red in color, and well mottled and coated with fat. The fat should be firm and of a yellowish color. Suet should be dry, and crumble easily. Beef should not be eaten as soon as killed, but allowed to hang and ripen,—from two to three weeks in winter, and two weeks in summer.

Meat should be removed from paper as soon as it comes from market, otherwise paper absorbs some of the juices.

Meat should be kept in a cool place. In winter, beef may be bought in large quantities and cut as needed. If one chooses, a loin or rump may be bought and kept by the butcher, who sends cuts as ordered.

Always wipe beef, before cooking, with a cheese-cloth wrung out of cold water, but never allow it to stand in a pan of cold water, as juices will be drawn out.

### DIVISION AND WAYS OF COOKING A SIDE OF BEEF

HIND-QUARTER
Divisions | Ways of Cooking
--- | ---
Flank (thick and boneless) | Stuffed, rolled and braised, or corned and boiled
Round | Aitchbone | Cheap roast, beef stew, or braised
Top | Steaks, best cuts for beef tea
Lower Part | Hamburg steaks, curry of beef, and cecils
Vein | Steaks
Rump | Back | Choicest large roasts and cross-cut steaks
Middle | Roasts
Face | Inferior roasts and stews
Loin | Tip | Extra fine roasts
Middle | Sirloin and porterhouse steaks
First Cut | Steaks and roast
The Tenderloin | Sold as a Fillet or cut in Steaks | Larded and roasted, or broiled
194Hind-shin |  | Cheap stew or soup stock
FORE-QUARTER
Five Prime Ribs |  | Good roast
Five Chuck Rib |  | Small steaks and stews
Neck |  | Hamburg steaks
Sticking-piece |  | Mincemeat
Rattle Rand | Thick End Second Cut Thin End | Corned for boiling
Brisket | Navel End Butt End or Fancy Brisket | Finest pieces for corning
Fore-shin |  | Soup stock and stews
Other Parts of Beef Creature used for Food
Brains |  | Stewed, scalloped dishes, or croquettes
Tongue |  | Boiled or braised, fresh or corned
Heart |  | Stuffed and braised
Liver |  | Broiled or fried
Kidneys |  | Stewed or sautéd
Tail |  | Soup
Suet (kidney suet is the best) |  |
Tripe |  | Lyonnaise, broiled, or fried in batter

### The Effect of Different Temperatures on the Cooking of Meat

By putting meat in cold water and allowing water to heat gradually, a large amount of juice is extracted and meat is tasteless; and by long cooking the connective tissues are softened and dissolved, which gives to the stock when cold a jelly-like consistency. This principle applies to soup making.

By putting meat in boiling water, allowing the water to boil for a few minutes, then lowering the temperature, juices in the outer surface are quickly coagulated, and the inner juices are prevented from escaping. This principle applies where nutriment and flavor is desired in meat. Examples: boiled mutton, fowl.

By putting in cold water, bringing quickly to the boiling-point, then lowering the temperature and cooking slowly until meat is tender, some of the goodness will be in the stock, but a large portion left in the meat. Examples: fowl, when cooked to use for made-over dishes, Scotch Broth.

Round of Beef.—Page 193.

Aitch Bone.
Tenderloin of Beef. Cut from hind shin for Soup making.
Page 193.

Tip of Sirloin. Five Prime Ribs.
Page 201.

Rump. Porter House Steak.
First slice from cross-cut of rump.
Page 201.

195

### TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF MEATS

Articles | Refuse | Proteid | Fat | Mineral matter | Water
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Beef |  |  |  |  |
Fore-quarter | 19.8 | 14.1 | 16.1 | .7 | 49.3
Hind-quarter | 16.3 | 15.3 | 15.6 | .8 | 52.
Round | 8.5 | 18.7 | 8.8 | 1. | 63.
Rump | 18.5 | 14.4 | 19. | .8 | 47.3
Loin | 12.6 | 15.9 | 17.3 | .9 | 53.3
Ribs | 20.2 | 13.6 | 20.6 | .7 | 44.9
Chuck ribs | 13.3 | 15. | 20.8 | .8 | 50.1
Tongue | 15.1 | 14.8 | 15.3 | .9 | 53.9
Heart |  | 16. | 20.4 | 1. | 62.6
| Carbohydrates |  |  |  |
Kidney | .4 | 16.9 | 4.8 | 1.2 | 76.7
Liver | 1.8 | 21.6 | 5.4 | 1.4 | 69.8
Mutton |  |  |  |  |
Hind-quarter | 16.7 | 13.5 | 23.5 | .7 | 45.6
Fore-quarter | 21.1 | 11.9 | 25.7 | .7 | 40.6
Leg | 17.4 | 15.1 | 14.5 | .8 | 52.2
Loin | 14.2 | 12.8 | 31.9 | .6 | 40.5
Veal |  |  |  |  |
Fore-quarter | 24.5 | 14.6 | 6. | .7 | 54.2
Hind-quarter | 20.7 | 15.7 | 6.6 | .8 | 56.2
Leg | 10.5 | 18.5 | 5. | 1. | 65.
Sweetbreads |  | 15.4 | 12.1 | 1.6 | 70.9
Pork |  |  |  |  |
Loin of pork | 16. | 13.5 | 27.5 | .7 | 42.3
Ham, smoked | 12.7 | 14.1 | 33.2 | 4.1 | 35.9
Salt pork | 8.1 | 6.5 | 66.8 | 2.7 | 15.9
Bacon | 8.1 | 9.6 | 60.2 | 4.3 | 17.8
Poultry |  |  |  |  |
Chicken | 34.8 | 14.8 | 1.1 | .8 | 48.5
Fowl | 30. | 13.4 | 10.2 | .8 | 45.6
Turkey | 22.7 | 15.7 | 18.4 | .8 | 42.4
Goose | 22.2 | 10.3 | 33.8 | .6 | 33.1
W. O. Atwater, Ph.D.

### Broiled Beefsteak

The best cuts of beef for broiling are porterhouse, sirloin, cross-cut of rump steaks, and second and third cuts from top 196of round. Porterhouse and sirloin cuts are the most expensive, on account of the great loss in bone and fat, although price per pound is about the same as for cross-cut of rump. Round steak is very juicy, but, having coarser fibre, is not as tender. Steaks should be cut at least an inch thick, and from that to two and one-half inches. The flank end of sirloin steak should be removed before cooking. It may be put in soup kettle, or lean part may be chopped and utilized for meat cakes, fat tried out and clarified for shortening.

To Broil Steak. Wipe with a cloth wrung out of cold water, and trim off superfluous fat. With some of the fat grease a wire broiler, place meat in broiler (having fat edge next to handle), and broil over a clear fire, turning every ten seconds for the first minute, that surface may be well seared, thus preventing escape of juices. After the first minute, turn occasionally until well cooked on both sides. Steak cut one inch thick will take five minutes, if liked rare; six minutes, if well done. Remove to hot platter, spread with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

### Beefsteak with Maître d’Hôtel Butter

Serve Broiled Steak with Maître d’Hôtel Butter.

### Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce

Serve broiled Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce.

### Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce

Serve broiled Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce.

### Porterhouse Steak, Bordelaise Sauce

Serve broiled porterhouse steak with

Bordelaise Sauce. Cook one shallot, finely chopped, with one-fourth cup claret until claret is reduced to two tablespoons, and strain. Melt two tablespoons butter, add one slice onion, two slices carrot, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, eight peppercorns, and one clove, and cook until brown. Add three and one-half tablespoons flour, and when well browned add gradually one cup Brown Stock. 197Strain, let simmer eight minutes, add claret and one tablespoon butter. Season with salt and pepper. Remove marrow from a marrow-bone and cut in one-third inch slices; then poach in boiling water. Arrange on and around steak, and pour around sauce.

### Beefsteak à la Henriette

½ cup butter
Yolks 3 eggs
1 tablespoon cold water
½ tablespoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons tomato purée
1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Few grains cayenne

Wash butter, and divide in three pieces. Put one piece in saucepan with yolks of eggs slightly beaten and mixed with water and lemon juice. Proceed same as in making Hollandaise Sauce I (see p. 274); then add tomato, parsley, and seasonings. Pour one-half sauce on a serving dish, lay a broiled porterhouse steak on sauce, and cover steak with remaining sauce. Garnish with parsley.

### Beefsteak à la Victor Hugo

Wipe a porterhouse steak, broil, and serve with

Victor Hugo Sauce. Cook one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot in one tablespoon tarragon vinegar five minutes. Wash one-third cup butter, and divide in thirds. Add one piece butter to mixture, with yolks two eggs, one teaspoon lemon juice, and one teaspoon meat extract. Cook over hot water, stirring constantly; as soon as butter is melted, add second piece, and then third piece. When mixture thickens, add one-half tablespoon grated horseradish.

### Steak à la Chiron

Spread broiled rump steak with Hollandaise Sauce I (see p. 274) to which is added a few drops onion juice and one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley.

### Beefsteak à la Mirabeau

Garnish a broiled porterhouse or cross-cut of rump steak with anchovies, and stoned olives stuffed with green butter 198and chopped parsley. Arrange around steak stuffed tomatoes, and fried potato balls served in shells made from noodle mixture. Pour around the following sauce: Melt two tablespoons butter, add two and one-half tablespoons browned flour, then add one cup Chicken Stock. Season with one tablespoon tomato catsup and salt and pepper.

Noodle Shells. Make noodle mixture (see p. 147), roll as thinly as possible, cut in pieces, and shape over buttered inverted scallop shells. Put in dripping-pan and bake in a slow oven. As mixture bakes it curls from edges, when cases should be slipped from shells and pressed firmly in insides of shells to finish cooking and leave an impression of shells. Potato balls served in these shells make an attractive garnish for broiled fish and meats.

### Beefsteak with Oyster Blanket

Wipe a sirloin steak, cut one and one-half inches thick, broil five minutes, and remove to platter. Spread with butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Clean one pint oysters, cover steak with same, sprinkle oysters with salt and pepper and dot over with butter. Place on grate in hot oven, and cook until oysters are plump.

### Planked Beefsteak

Wipe, remove superfluous fat, and pan broil seven minutes a porterhouse or cross-cut of the rump steak cut one and three-fourths inches thick. Butter a plank and arrange a border of Duchess Potatoes close to edge, using a pastry bag and rose tube. Remove steak to plank, put in a hot oven, and bake until steak is cooked and potatoes are browned. Spread steak with butter, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and finely chopped parsley. Garnish top of steak with sautéd mushroom caps, and put around steak at equal distances halves of small tomatoes sautéd in butter, and on top of each tomato a circular slice of cucumber.

### Broiled Fillets of Beef

Slices cut from the tenderloin are called sliced fillets of beef. Wipe sliced fillets, place in greased broiler, and broil 199four or five minutes over a clear fire. These may be served with Maître d’Hôtel Butter or Mushroom Sauce.

### Cutlets of Tenderloin with Chestnut Purée

Shape slices of tenderloin, one inch thick, in circular pieces. Broil five minutes. Spread with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange on platter around a mound of Chestnut Purée.

### Sautéd Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Figaro

Wipe and sauté small fillets in hot omelet pan. Arrange in a circle on platter with cock’s-comb shaped croûtons between, and pour sauce in the centre. Serve as a luncheon dish with Brussels Sprouts or String Beans.

### Sautéd Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Trianon

Wipe and sauté small fillets in hot omelet pan. Arrange in a circle around a mound of fried potato balls sprinkled with parsley. Put Sauce Trianon on each fillet.

### Sautéd Fillets of Beef à la Moelle

Cut beef tenderloin in slices one inch thick, and trim into circular shapes. Season with salt and pepper, and broil six minutes in hot buttered frying-pan. Remove marrow from a marrow-bone, cut in one-third inch slices, poach in boiling water, and drain. Put a slice of marrow on each fillet. To liquor in pan add one tablespoon butter, two tablespoons flour, and one cup Brown Stock. Season with salt, pepper, and Madeira wine. Pour sauce around meat.

### Sautéd Fillets of Beef, Cherry Sauce

Prepare and cook six fillets same as Sautéd Fillets of Beef à la Moelle. Arrange on serving dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, spread with butter, and pour over.

Cherry Sauce. Soak one-fourth cup glacéd cherries fifteen minutes in boiling water. Drain, cut in halves, cover with Sherry wine, and let stand three hours.

200

### Sautéd Fillets of Beef with Stuffed Mushroom Caps

Prepare and cook six fillets same as Sautéd Fillets of Beef à la Moelle. Put a sautéd stuffed mushroom cap on each, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are browned. Remove to serving dish, pour around Espagnole Sauce, and garnish caps with strips of red and green pepper cut in fancy shapes.

Stuffing for Mushroom Caps. Clean and finely chop six mushroom caps; add one tablespoon each of parsley and onion finely chopped, and one tablespoon butter. Moisten with Espagnole Sauce (See p. 200).

### Châteaubriand of Beef

Trim off fat and skin from three pounds of beef cut from centre of fillet and flatten with a broad-bladed cleaver. Sprinkle with salt, brush over with olive oil, and broil over a clear fire twenty minutes. Remove to serving dish, garnish with red pepper cut in fancy shapes and parsley. Serve with

Espagnole Sauce. To one and one-half cups rich brown sauce add two-thirds teaspoon meat extract, one tablespoon lemon juice, and one and one-half tablespoons finely chopped parsley. Just before serving add one tablespoon butter and salt and pepper to taste.

### Broiled Meat Cakes

Chop finely lean raw beef, season with salt and pepper, shape in small flat cakes, and broil in a greased broiler or frying-pan. Spread with butter, or serve with Maître d’Hôtel Butter. In forming the cakes, handle as little as possible; for if pressed too compactly, cakes will be found solid.

### Hamburg Steaks

Chop finely one pound lean raw beef; season highly with salt, pepper, and a few drops onion juice or one-half shallot finely chopped. Shape, cook, and serve as Meat Cakes. A few gratings of nutmeg and one egg slightly beaten may be added.

Planks for Planked Dishes.—Page 198.

Beefsteak à la Mirabeau.—Page 197.

Side of Veal with Sweetbread attached.
Side of Lamb showing division into fore and hind quarter.
Page 195.

201

### Cannelon of Beef

2 lbs. lean beef, cut from round
Grated rind ½ lemon
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 egg
½ teaspoon onion juice
2 tablespoons melted butter
Few gratings nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper

Chop meat finely, and add remaining ingredients in order given. Shape in a roll six inches long, wrap in buttered paper, place on rack in dripping-pan, and bake thirty minutes. Baste every five minutes with one-fourth cup butter melted in one cup boiling water. Serve with Brown Mushroom Sauce I.

### Roast Beef

The best cuts of beef for roasting are: tip or middle of sirloin, back of rump, or first three ribs. Tip of sirloin roast is desirable for a small family. Back of rump makes a superior roast for a large family, and is more economical than sirloin. It is especially desirable where a large quantity of dish gravy is liked, for in carving the meat juices follow the knife. Rib roasts contain more fat than either of the others, and are somewhat cheaper.

To Roast Beef. Wipe, put on a rack in dripping-pan, skin side down, rub over with salt, and dredge meat and pan with flour. Place in hot oven, that the surface may be quickly seared, thus preventing escape of inner juices. After flour in pan is browned, reduce heat, and baste with fat which has tried out; if meat is quite lean, it may be necessary to put trimmings of fat in pan. Baste every ten minutes; if this rule is followed, meat will be found more juicy. When meat is about half done, turn it over and dredge with flour, that skin side may be uppermost for final browning. For roasting, consult Time Table for Baking Meats, page 30.

If there is danger of flour burning in pan, add a small quantity of water; this, however, is not desirable, and seldom need be done if size of pan is adapted to size of roast. Beef to be well roasted should be started in hot oven and heat decreased, so that when carved the slices will be red throughout, with a crisp layer of golden brown fat on the top. 202Beef roasted when temperature is so high that surface is hardened before heat can penetrate to the centre is most unsatisfactory.

Sirloin or rib roasts may have the bones removed, and be rolled, skewered, and tied in shape. Chicago Butt is cut from the most tender part of back of rump. They are shipped from Chicago, our greatest beef centre, and if fresh and from a heavy creature, make excellent roasts at a small price.

Roast Beef Gravy. Remove some of the fat from pan, leaving four tablespoons. Place on front of range, add four tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned. The flour, dredged and browned in pan, should give additional color to gravy. Add gradually one and one-half cups boiling water, cook five minutes, season with salt and pepper, and strain. If flour should burn in pan, gravy will be full of black particles.

To Carve a Roast of Beef. Have roast placed on platter skin side up; with a pointed, thin-bladed, sharp knife cut a sirloin or rib roast in thin slices at right angles to the ribs, and cut slices from ribs. If there is tenderloin, remove it from under the bone, and cut in thin slices across grain of meat. Carve back of rump in thin slices with the grain of meat; by so doing, some of the least tender muscle will be served with that which is tender. By cutting across grain of meat, the tenderest portion is sliced by itself, as is the less tender portion.

### Yorkshire Pudding

1 cup milk
1 cup flour
2 eggs
¼ teaspoon salt
Miss C. J. Wills

Mix salt and flour, and add milk gradually to form a smooth paste; then add eggs beaten until very light. Cover bottom of hot pan with some of beef fat tried out from roast, pour mixture in pan one-half inch deep. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven, basting after well risen, with some of the fat from pan in which meat is roasting. Cut in squares for serving. Bake, if preferred, in greased, hissing hot iron gem pans.

203

### Larded Fillet of Beef

The tenderloin of beef which lies under the loin and rump is called fillet of beef. The fillet under the loin is known as the long fillet, and when removed no porterhouse steaks can be cut; therefore it commands a higher price than the short fillet lying under rump. Two short fillets are often skewered together, and served in place of a long fillet.

Wipe, remove fat, veins, and any tendinous portions; skewer in shape, and lard upper side with grain of meat, following directions for larding on page 23. Place on a rack in small pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and put in bottom of pan small pieces of pork. Bake twenty to thirty minutes in hot oven, basting three times. Take out skewer, remove meat to hot platter, and garnish with watercress. Serve with Mushroom, Figaro, or Horseradish Sauce I.

### Fillet of Beef with Vegetables

Wipe a three-pound fillet, trim, and remove fat. Put one-half pound butter in hot frying-pan and when melted add fillet, and turn frequently until the entire surface is seared and well browned; then turn occasionally until done, the time required being about thirty minutes. Remove to serving dish and garnish with one cup each cooked peas and carrots cut in fancy shapes, both well seasoned, one-half cup raisins seeded and cooked in boiling water until soft, and the caps from one-half pound fresh mushrooms sautéd in butter five minutes. Serve with

Brown Mushroom Sauce. Pour off one-fourth cup fat from frying-pan, add five tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add one cup Brown Soup Stock, one-third cup mushroom liquor, and the caps from one-half pound mushrooms cut in slices and sautéd in butter three minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and just before serving add gradually, while stirring constantly, the butter remaining in frying-pan.

To obtain mushroom liquor, scrape stems of mushrooms, break in pieces, cover with cold water, and cook slowly until liquid is reduced to one-third cup.

204

### Braised Beef

3 lbs. beef from lower part of round or face of rump
2 thin slices fat salt pork
½ teaspoon peppercorns
Carrot | ¼ cup each, cut in dice
Turnip
Onion
Celery
Salt and pepper

Fry out pork and remove scraps. Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and brown entire surface in pork fat. When turning meat, avoid piercing with fork or skewer, which allows the inner juices to escape. Place on trivet in deep granite pan or in earthen pudding-dish, and surround with vegetables, peppercorns, and three cups boiling water; cover closely, and bake four hours in very slow oven, basting every half-hour, and turning after second hour. Throughout the cooking, the liquid should be kept below the boiling-point. Serve with Horseradish Sauce, or with sauce made from liquor in pan.

### Beef à la Mode

Insert twelve large lardoons in a four-pound piece of beef cut from the round. Make incisions for lardoons by running through the meat a large skewer. Season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and brown the entire surface in pork fat. Put on a trivet in kettle, surround with one-third cup each carrot, turnip, celery, and onion cut in dice, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, and water to half cover meat. Cover closely, and cook slowly four hours, keeping liquor below the boiling-point. Remove to hot platter. Strain liquor, thicken and season to serve as a gravy. When beef is similarly prepared (with exception of lardoons and vegetables), and cooked in smaller amount of water, it is called Smothered Beef, or Pot Roast. A bean-pot (covered with a piece of buttered paper, tied firmly down) is the best utensil to use for a Pot Roast.

### Pressed Beef Flank

Wipe, remove superfluous fat, and roll a flank of beef. Put in a kettle, cover with boiling water, and add one tablespoon salt, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, a bit of bay leaf, and a bone or two which may be at hand. Cook slowly until meat is in shreds; there should be but little 205liquor in kettle when meat is done. Arrange meat in a deep pan, pour over liquor, cover, and press with a heavy weight. Serve cold, thinly sliced.

### Beef Stew with Dumplings

Aitchbone, weighing 5 lbs.
4 cups potatoes, cut in ¼ inch slices
Turnip | ⅔ cup each, cut in half-inch cubes
Carrot
½ small onion, cut in thin slices
¼ cup flour
Salt
Pepper

Wipe meat, remove from bone, cut in one and one-half inch cubes, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Cut some of the fat in small pieces and try out in frying-pan. Add meat and stir constantly, that the surface may be quickly seared; when well browned, put in kettle, and rinse frying-pan with boiling water, that none of the goodness may be lost. Add to meat remaining fat, and bone sawed in pieces; cover with boiling water and boil five minutes, then cook at a lower temperature until meat is tender (time required being about three hours). Add carrot, turnip, and onion, with salt and pepper the last hour of cooking. Parboil potatoes five minutes, and add to stew fifteen minutes before taking from fire. Remove bones, large pieces of fat, and then skim. Thicken with one-fourth cup flour, diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Pour in deep hot platter, and surround with dumplings. Remnants of roast beef are usually made into a beef stew; the meat having been once cooked, there is no necessity of browning it. If gravy is left, it should be added to the stew.

### Dumplings

2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons butter
¾ cup milk

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Work in butter with tips of fingers, and add milk gradually, using a knife for mixing. Toss on a floured board, pat, and roll out to one-half inch in thickness. Shape with biscuit-cutter, first dipped in flour. Place closely together in a buttered steamer, put over kettle of boiling water, cover closely, and steam twelve minutes. A 206perforated tin pie plate may be used in place of steamer. A little more milk may be used in the mixture, when it may be taken up by spoonfuls, dropped and cooked on top of stew. In this case some of the liquid must be removed, that dumplings may rest on meat and potato, and not settle into liquid.

### Corned Beef

Corned beef has but little nutritive value. It is used to give variety to our diet in summer, when fresh meats prove too stimulating. It is eaten by the workingman to give bulk to his food. The best pieces of corned beef are the rattle rand and fancy brisket. The fancy brisket commands a higher price and may be easily told from the rattle rand by the selvage on lower side and the absence of bones. The upper end of brisket (butt end) is thick and composed mostly of lean meat, the middle cut has more fat but is not well mixed, while the lower (navel end) has a large quantity of fat. The rattle rand contains a thick lean end; the second cut contains three distinct layers of meat and fat, and is considered the best cut by those who prefer meat well streaked with fat. The rattle rand has a thin end, which contains but one layer of lean meat and much fat, consequently is not a desirable piece.

To Boil Corned Beef. Wipe the meat and tie securely in shape, if this has not been already done at market. Put in kettle, cover with cold water, and bring slowly to boiling-point. Boil five minutes, remove scum, and cook at a lower temperature until tender. Cool slightly in water in which it was cooked, remove to a dish, cover, and place on cover a weight, that meat may be well pressed. The lean meat and fat may be separated and put in alternate layers in a bread pan, then covered and pressed.

### Boiled Dinner

A boiled dinner consists of warm impressed corned beef, served with cabbage, beets, turnips, carrots, and potatoes. After removing meat from water, skim off fat and cook vegetables (with exception of beets, which require a long 207time for cooking) in this water. Carrots require a longer time for cooking than cabbage or turnips. Carrots and turnips, if small, may be cooked whole; if large, cut in pieces. Cabbage and beets are served in separate dishes, other vegetables on same dish with meat.

### Boiled Tongue

A boiled corned tongue is cooked the same as Boiled Corned Beef. If very salt, it should be soaked in cold water several hours, or over night, before cooking. Take from water when slightly cooled and remove skin.

### Braised Tongue

A fresh tongue is necessary for braising. Put tongue in kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly two hours. Take tongue from water and remove skin and roots. Place in deep pan and surround with one-third cup each carrot, onion, and celery, cut in dice, and one sprig parsley; then pour over four cups sauce. Cover closely, and bake two hours, turning after the first hour. Serve on platter and strain around the sauce.

Sauce for Tongue. Brown one-fourth cup butter, add one-fourth cup flour and stir together until well browned. Add gradually four cups of water in which tongue was cooked. Season with salt and pepper and add one teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce. One and one-half cups stewed and strained tomatoes may be used in place of some of the water.

### Broiled Liver

Cover with boiling water slices of liver cut one-half inch thick, let stand five minutes to draw out the blood; drain, wipe, and remove the thin outside skin and veins. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, place in a greased wire broiler and broil five minutes, turning often. Remove to a hot platter, spread with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

### Liver and Bacon

Prepare as for Broiled Liver, cut in pieces for serving, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry in bacon fat. Serve with bacon.

208

### Bacon I

Place strips of thinly cut bacon on board, and with a broad-bladed knife make strips as thin as possible. Put in hot frying-pan and cook until bacon is crisp and brown, occasionally pouring off fat from pan, turning frequently. Drain on brown paper.

### Bacon II

Place thin slices of bacon (from which the rind has been removed) closely together in a fine wire broiler; place broiler over dripping-pan and bake in a hot oven until bacon is crisp and brown, turning once. Drain on brown paper. Fat which has dripped into the pan should be poured out and used for frying liver, eggs, potatoes, etc.

### Braised Liver

Skewer, tie in shape, and lard upper side of calf’s liver. Place in deep pan, with trimmings from lardoons; surround with one-fourth cup each, carrot, onion, and celery, cut in dice; one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, two cloves, bit of bay leaf, and two cups Brown Stock or water. Cover closely and bake slowly two hours, uncovering the last twenty minutes. Remove from pan, strain liquor, and use liquor for the making of a brown sauce with one and one-half tablespoons butter and two tablespoons flour. Pour sauce around liver for serving.

### Calf’s Liver, Stuffed and Larded

Make a deep cut nearly the entire length of liver, beginning at thick end, thus making a pouch for stuffing. Fill pouch. Skewer liver and lard upper side. Put liver in baking-pan, pour around two cups Brown Sauce, made of one tablespoon each butter and flour, and two cups Brown Stock, salt, and pepper. Bake one and one-fourth hours, basting every twelve minutes with sauce in pan. Remove to serving dish, strain sauce around liver, and garnish with Glazed or French Fried Onions (see p. 296).

Stuffing. Mix one-half pound chopped cooked cold ham, one-half cup stale bread crumbs, one half small onion finely chopped, and one tablespoon finely chopped parsley. Moisten 209with Brown Sauce; then add one beaten egg, and season with salt and pepper.

### Broiled Tripe

Fresh honeycomb tripe is best for broiling. Wipe tripe as dry as possible, dip in fine cracker dust and olive oil or melted butter, draining off all fat that is possible, and again dip in cracker dust. Place in a greased broiler and broil five minutes, cooking smooth side of tripe the first three minutes. Place on a hot platter, honeycomb side up, spread with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broiled tripe is at its best when cooked over a charcoal fire.

### Tripe in Batter

Wipe tripe and cut in pieces for serving. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in batter, fry in a small quantity of hot fat, and drain.

Tripe Batter. Mix one cup flour with one-fourth teaspoon salt; add gradually one-half cup cold water, and when perfectly smooth add one egg well beaten, one-half tablespoon vinegar, and one teaspoon olive oil or melted butter.

### Tripe Fried in Batter

Cut pickled honeycomb tripe in pieces for serving; wash, cover with boiling water, and simmer gently twenty minutes. Drain, and again cover, using equal parts cold water and milk. Heat to boiling-point, again drain, wipe as dry as possible, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter, dip in batter, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with slices of lemon and Chili Sauce.

Batter. Mix and sift one cup flour, one and one-half teaspoons baking powder, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few grains pepper. Add one-third cup milk and one egg well beaten.

### Lyonnaise Tripe

Cut honeycomb tripe in pieces two inches long by one-half inch wide, having three cupfuls. Put in a pan and place in oven that water may be drawn out. Cook one tablespoon finely chopped onion in two tablespoons butter until slightly 210browned, add tripe drained from water, and cook five minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and finely chopped parsley.

### Tripe à la Creole

Cut, bake, and drain tripe as for Lyonnaise Tripe. Cook same quantity of butter and onion, add one-eighth green pepper finely chopped, one tablespoon flour, one-half cup stock, one-fourth cup drained tomatoes, and one fresh mushroom cut in slices; then add tripe and cook five minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

### Tripe à la Provençale

Add to Lyonnaise Tripe one tablespoon white wine. Cook until quite dry, add one-third cup Tomato Sauce, cook two minutes, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

### Calf’s Head à la Terrapin

Wash and clean a calf’s head, and cook until tender in boiling water to cover. Cool, and cut meat from cheek in small cubes. To two cups meat dice add one cup sauce made of two tablespoons butter, two tablespoons flour, and one cup White Stock, seasoned with one-half teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, and a few grains cayenne. Add one-half cup cream and yolks of two eggs slightly beaten; cook two minutes and add two tablespoons Madeira wine.

### Calves’ Tongues

Cook tongues until tender in boiling water to cover, with six slices carrot, two stalks celery, one onion stuck with six cloves, one-half teaspoon peppercorns and one-half tablespoon salt; take from water and remove skin and roots. Split and pour over equal parts brown stock and tomatoes boiled until thick.

### Calves’ Tongues, Sauce Piquante

Cook four tongues, until tender, in boiling water, to cover, with six slices carrot, two stalks celery, one onion stuck with eight cloves, one teaspoon peppercorns, and one-half tablespoon salt. Take tongues from water, and remove skin and roots. Cut in halves lengthwise and reheat in

211 Sauce Piquante. Brown one-fourth cup butter, add six tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add two cups Brown Stock and cook three minutes. Season with two-thirds teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon paprika, few grains of cayenne, one tablespoon vinegar, one-half tablespoon capers, and one cucumber pickle thinly sliced. Served garnished with cucumber pickles, and cold cooked beets cut in fancy shapes.

### Calf’s Heart

Wash a calf’s heart, remove veins, arteries, and clotted blood. Stuff (using half quantity of Fish Stuffing I on page 164, seasoned highly with sage) and sew. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in flour, and brown in hot fat. Place in small, deep baking-pan, half cover it with boiling water, cover closely, and bake slowly two hours, basting every fifteen minutes. It may be necessary to add more water. Remove heart from pan, and thicken the liquor with flour diluted with a small quantity of cold water. Season with salt and pepper, and pour around the heart before serving.

### Stuffed Hearts with Vegetables

Clean and wash calves’ hearts, stuff, skewer into shape, lard, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in pork fat, adding to fat one stalk celery, one tablespoon chopped onion, two sprigs parsley, four slices carrot cut in pieces, half the quantity of turnip, a bit of bay leaf, two cloves, and one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns. Turn hearts occasionally until well browned, then add one and one-half cups Brown Stock, cover, and cook slowly one and one-half hours. Serve with cooked carrots and turnips cut in strips or fancy shapes.

### Braised Ox Joints

Cut ox-tail at joints, parboil five minutes, wash thoroughly, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter (to which has been added a sliced onion) until well browned. Add one-fourth cup flour, two cups each brown stock, water, and canned tomatoes, one teaspoon salt, and one-fourth teaspoon pepper. 212Turn into an earthen pudding-dish, cover, and cook slowly three and one-half hours. Remove ox-tail, strain sauce, and return ox-tail and sauce to oven to finish cooking. Add two-thirds cup each carrot and turnip (shaped with a vegetable cutter in pieces one-inch long, and about as large around as macaroni) parboiled in boiled salted water five minutes. As soon as vegetables are soft, add Sherry wine to taste, and more salt and pepper, if needed. The wine may be omitted.

### WAYS OF WARMING OVER BEEF

#### Roast Beef with Gravy

Cut cold roast beef in thin slices, place on a warm platter, and pour over some of the gravy reheated to the boiling-point. If meat is allowed to stand in gravy on the range, it becomes hard and tough.

#### Roast Beef, Mexican Sauce

Reheat cold roast beef cut in thin slices, in

Mexican Sauce. Cook one onion, finely chopped, in two tablespoons butter five minutes. Add one red pepper, one green pepper, and one clove of garlic, each finely chopped, and two tomatoes peeled and cut in pieces. Cook fifteen minutes, add one teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce, one-fourth teaspoon celery salt, and salt to taste.

#### Cottage Pie

Cover bottom of a small greased baking-dish with hot mashed potato, add a thick layer of roast beef, chopped or cut in small pieces (seasoned with salt, pepper, and a few drops onion juice) and moistened with some of the gravy; cover with a thin layer of mashed potato, and bake in a hot oven long enough to heat through.

#### Beefsteak Pie

Cut remnants of cold broiled steak or roast beef in one-inch cubes. Cover with boiling water, add one-half onion, and cook slowly one hour. Remove onion, thicken gravy with flour diluted with cold water, and season with salt and pepper. Add potatoes cut in one-fourth inch slices, which 213have been parboiled eight minutes in boiling salted water. Put in a buttered pudding-dish, cool, cover with baking-powder biscuit mixture or pie-crust. Bake in a hot oven. If covered with pie crust, make several incisions in crust that gases may escape.

#### Cecils with Tomato Sauce

1 cup cold roast beef or rare steak finely chopped
Salt
Pepper
Onion juice
Worcestershire Sauce
2 tablespoons bread crumbs
1 tablespoon melted butter
Yolk 1 egg slightly beaten

Season beef with salt, pepper, onion juice, and Worcestershire Sauce; add remaining ingredients, shape after the form of small croquettes, pointed at ends. Roll in flour, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, drain, and serve with Tomato Sauce.

#### Corned Beef Hash

Remove skin and gristle from cooked corned beef, then chop the meat. When meat is very fat, discard most of the fat. To chopped meat add an equal quantity of cold boiled chopped potatoes. Season with salt and pepper, put into a hot buttered frying-pan, moisten with milk or cream, stir until well mixed, spread evenly, then place on a part of the range where it may slowly brown underneath. Turn, and fold on a hot platter. Garnish with sprig of parsley in the middle.

#### Corned Beef Hash with Beets

When preparing Corned Beef hash, add one-half as much finely chopped cooked beets as potatoes. Cold roast beef or one-half roast beef and one-half corned beef may be used.

#### Dried Beef with Cream

¼ lb. smoked dried beef, thinly sliced
1 cup scalded cream
1½ tablespoons flour

Remove skin and separate meat in pieces, cover with hot water, let stand ten minutes, and drain. Dilute flour with enough cold water to pour easily, making a smooth paste; add to cream, and cook in double boiler ten minutes. Add beef, and reheat. One cup White Sauce I may be used in place of cream, omitting the salt.

214

## CHAPTER XIII
LAMB AND MUTTON

Lamb is the name given to the meat of lambs; mutton, to the meat of sheep. Lamb, coming as it does from the young creature, is immature, and less nutritious than mutton. The flesh of mutton ranks with the flesh of beef in nutritive value and digestibility. The fat of mutton, on account of its larger percentage of stearic acid, is more difficult of digestion than the fat of beef.

Lamb may be eaten soon after the animal is killed and dressed; mutton must hang to ripen. Good mutton comes from a sheep about three years old, and should hang from two to three weeks. The English South Down Mutton is cut from creatures even older than three years. Young lamb, when killed from six weeks to three months old, is called spring lamb, and appears in the market as early as the last of January, but is very scarce until March. Lamb one year old is called a yearling. Many object to the strong flavor of mutton; this is greatly overcome by removing the pink skin and trimming off superfluous fat.

Lamb and mutton are divided into two parts by cutting through entire length of backbone; then subdivided into fore and hind quarter, eight ribs being left on hind quarter,—while in beef but three ribs are left on hind-quarter. These eight ribs are cut into chops and are known as rib chops. The meat which lies between these ribs and the leg, cut into chops, is known as loin or kidney chops.

Lamb and mutton chops cut from loin have a small piece of tenderloin on one side of bone, and correspond to porterhouse steaks in the beef creature. Rib chops which have the 215bone cut short and scraped clean, nearly to the lean meat, are called French chops.

The leg is sold whole for boiling or roasting. The fore-quarter may be boned, stuffed, rolled, and roasted, but is more often used for broth, stew, or fricassee.

For a saddle of mutton the loin is removed whole before splitting the creature. Some of the bones are removed and the flank ends are rolled, fastened with wooden skewers, and securely tied to keep skewers in place.

Good quality mutton should be fine-grained and of bright pink color; the fat white, hard, and flaky. If the outside skin comes off easily, mutton is sure to be good. Lamb chops may be easily distinguished from mutton chops by the red color of bone. As lamb grows older, blood recedes from bones; therefore in mutton the bone is white. In leg of lamb the bone at joint is serrated, while in leg of mutton the bone at joint is smooth and rounded. Good mutton contains a larger proportion of fat than good beef. Poor mutton is often told by the relatively small proportion of fat and lean as compared to bone.

Lamb is usually preferred well done; mutton is often cooked rare.

### Broiled Lamb or Mutton Chops

Wipe chops, remove superfluous fat, and place in a broiler greased with some of mutton fat. In loin chops, flank may be rolled and fastened with a small wooden skewer. Follow directions for Broiling Beefsteak on page 196.

### Pan-broiled Chops

Chops for pan broiling should have flank and most of fat removed. Wipe chops and put in hissing hot frying-pan.

Turn as soon as under surface is seared, and sear other side. Turn often, using knife and fork that the surface may not be pierced, as would be liable if fork alone were used. Cook six minutes if liked rare, eight to ten minutes if liked well done. Let stand around edge of frying-pan to brown the outside fat. When half cooked, sprinkle with salt. Drain on brown paper, put on hot platter, and spread with butter or serve with Tomato or Soubise Sauce.

216

### Breaded Mutton Chops

Wipe and trim chops, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat from five to eight minutes, and drain. Serve with Tomato Sauce, or stack around a mound of mashed potatoes, fried potato balls, or green peas. Never fry but four at a time, and allow fat to reheat between fryings. After testing fat for temperature, put in chops and place kettle on back of range, that surface of chops may not be too brown while the inside is still underdone.

### Chops à la Signora

Gash French Chops on outer edge, extending cut half-way through lean meat. Insert in each gash a slice of truffle, sprinkle with salt and pepper, wrap in calf’s caul. Roll in flour, dip in egg, then in stale bread crumbs, and sauté in butter eight minutes, turning often. Place in oven four minutes to finish cooking. Arrange on hot platter for serving, and place on top of each a fresh broiled mushroom or mushroom baked in cream. To fat in pan add a small quantity of boiling water and pour around chops. This is a delicious way of cooking chops for a dinner party.

### Lamb Chops à la Marseilles

Pan broil, on one side, six French chops, cover cooked side with Mushroom Sauce, place in a buttered baking-dish, and bake in a hot oven eight minutes. Remove to serving dish, place a paper frill on each chop, and garnish with parsley.

Mushroom Sauce. Brown one and one-half tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add one-half cup highly seasoned Brown Stock. Add one-fourth cup chopped canned mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper.

### Chops à la Castillane

Broil six lamb chops, arrange on slices of fried eggplant, and pour around the following sauce: Brown three tablespoons 217butter, add three and one-half tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add, gradually, one cup rich Brown Stock. Cook three tablespoons lean raw ham cut in small cubes in one-half tablespoon butter two minutes. Moisten with two tablespoons Sherry wine, and add to sauce with two tablespoons finely shredded green pepper. Season with salt and pepper.

### Chops en Papillote

Finely chop the whites of three “hard-boiled” eggs and force yolks through potato ricer, mix, and add to three common crackers, rolled and sifted; then add three tablespoons melted butter, salt, pepper, and onion juice, to taste. Add enough cream to make of right consistency to spread. Cover chops thinly with mixture and wrap in buttered paper cases. Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven. Remove from cases, place on hot platter, and garnish with parsley.

### Mutton Cutlets à la Maintenon

Wipe six French Chops, cut one and one-half inches thick. Split meat in halves, cutting to bone. Cook two and one-half tablespoons butter and one tablespoon onion five minutes; remove onion, add one-half cup chopped mushrooms, and cook five minutes; then add two tablespoons flour, three tablespoons stock, one teaspoon finely chopped parsley, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. Spread mixture between layers of chops, press together lightly, wrap in buttered paper cases, and broil ten minutes. Serve with Spanish Sauce.

### Boiled Leg of Mutton

Wipe meat, place in a kettle, and cover with boiling water. Bring quickly to boiling-point, boil five minutes, and skim. Set on back of range and simmer until meat is tender. When half done, add one tablespoon salt. Serve with Caper Sauce, or add to two cups White Sauce (made of one-half milk and one-half Mutton Stock), two “hard-boiled” eggs cut in slices.

218

### Braised Leg of Mutton

Order a leg of mutton boned. Wipe, stuff, sew, and place in deep pan. Cook five minutes in one-fourth cup butter, a slice each of onion, carrot, and turnip cut in dice, one-half bay leaf, and a sprig each of thyme and parsley. Add three cups hot water, one and one-half teaspoons salt, and twelve peppercorns; pour over mutton. Cover closely, and cook slowly three hours, uncovering for the last half-hour. Remove from pan to hot platter. Brown three tablespoons butter, add four tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then pour on slowly the strained liquor; there should be one and three-fourths cups.

### Stuffing

1 cup cracker crumbs
¼ cup melted butter
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
½ tablespoon Poultry Seasoning
¼ cup boiling water

### Roast Lamb

A leg of lamb is usually sent from market wrapped in caul; remove caul, wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on rack in dripping-pan, and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Place in hot oven, and baste as soon as flour in pan is brown, and every fifteen minutes afterwards until meat is done, which will take about one and three-fourths hours. It may be necessary to put a small quantity of water in pan while meat is cooking. Leg of lamb may be boned and stuffed for roasting. See Stuffing, under Braised Mutton.

Make gravy, following directions for Roast Beef Gravy on page 202, or serve with Currant Jelly Sauce.

To Carve a Leg of Lamb. Cut in thin slices across grain of meat to the bone, beginning at top of the leg.

### Lamb Bretonne

Serve hot thinly sliced roast lamb with

Beans Bretonne. Soak one and one-half cups pea beans over night in cold water to cover, drain, and parboil until soft; again drain, put in earthen-ware dish or bean-pot, add tomato sauce, cover, and cook until beans have nearly absorbed sauce.

Kidney Lamb Chop; Rib Chop; French Chop.—Page 214.

Crown of Lamb, prepared for Roasting.—Page 219.

Saddle of Mutton as purchased.—Page 191.

Roast Saddle of Mutton garnished with circular pieces of toast, small circular pieces of currant jelly, radishes cut to represent fuchsias, and parsley.—Page 219.

219 Tomato Sauce. Mix one cup stewed and strained tomatoes, one cup white stock, six canned pimentoes rubbed through a sieve, one onion finely chopped, two cloves garlic finely chopped, one-fourth cup butter, and two teaspoons salt.

### Saddle of Mutton

Mutton for a saddle should always be dressed at market. Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on rack in dripping-pan, and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Bake in hot oven one and one-fourth hours, basting every fifteen minutes. Serve with Currant Jelly Sauce.

To Carve a Saddle of Mutton, cut thin slices parallel with backbone, then slip the knife under and separate slices from ribs.

### Saddle of Mutton, Currant Mint Sauce

Follow directions for Saddle of Mutton, and serve with

Currant Mint Sauce. Separate two-thirds tumbler of currant jelly in pieces, but do not beat it. Add one and one-half tablespoons finely chopped mint leaves and shavings from the rind of one-fourth orange.

### Saddle of Lamb à l’Estragnon

Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on rack in dripping-pan, and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Bake in hot oven one and one-fourth hours, basting every fifteen minutes. Remove to hot serving dish and pour around

Estragnon Sauce. Brown four tablespoons butter, add four tablespoons flour (which has been previously browned), and pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, two cups bouillon, and one-half cup stock which has infused with one tablespoon tarragon one hour.

### Crown of Lamb

Select parts from two loins containing ribs, scrape flesh from bone between ribs, as far as lean meat, and trim off 220backbone. Shape each piece in a semicircle, having ribs outside, and sew pieces together to form a crown. Trim ends of bones evenly, care being taken that they are not left too long, and wrap each bone in a thin strip of fat salt pork or insert in cubes of fat salt pork to prevent bone from burning; then cover with buttered paper. Roast one and one-fourth hours.

Remove pork from bones before serving, and fill centre with Purée of Chestnuts.

### Lamb en Casserole

Wipe two slices of lamb cut one and one-fourth inches thick from centre of leg. Put in hot frying-pan, and turn frequently until seared and browned on both sides. Brush over with melted butter, season with salt and pepper, and bake in casserole dish twenty minutes or until tender. Parboil three-fourths cup carrot, cut in strips, fifteen minutes; drain, and sauté in one tablespoon bacon fat to which has been added one tablespoon finely chopped onion. Add to lamb, with one cup potato balls, two cups thin Brown Sauce, three tablespoons Sherry wine, and pepper to taste. Cook until potatoes are soft, then add twelve small onions cooked until soft, then drained and sautéd in butter to which is added one tablespoon sugar. Onions need not be sautéd unless they are desired glazed. Serve from casserole dish.

### Mutton Curry

Wipe and cut meat from fore-quarter of mutton in one-inch pieces; there should be three cupfuls. Put in kettle, cover with cold water, and bring quickly to boiling-point; drain in colander and pour over one quart cold water. Return meat to kettle, cover with one quart boiling water, add three onions cut in slices, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, and a sprig each of thyme and parsley. Simmer until meat is tender, remove meat, strain liquor, and thicken with one-fourth cup each of butter and flour cooked together; to the flour add one-half teaspoon curry powder, one-half teaspoon salt, and one-eighth teaspoon pepper. Add meat to gravy, reheat, and serve with border of steamed rice.

221

### Fricassee of Lamb with Brown Gravy

Order three pounds lamb from the fore-quarter, cut in pieces for serving. Wipe meat, put in kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until meat is tender. Remove from water, cool, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter or mutton fat. Arrange on platter, and pour around one and one-half cups Brown Sauce made from liquor in which meat was cooked after removing all fat. It is better to cook meat the day before serving, as then fat may be more easily removed.

### Mutton Broth

3 lbs. mutton (from the neck)
2 quarts cold water
1 teaspoon salt
Few grins pepper
3 tablespoons rice or
3 tablespoons barley

Wipe meat, remove skin and fat, and cut in small pieces. Put into kettle with bones, and cover with cold water. Heat gradually to boiling-point, skim, then season with salt and pepper. Cook slowly until meat is tender, strain, and remove fat. Reheat to boiling-point, add rice or barley, and cook until rice or barley is tender. If barley is used, soak over night in cold water. Some of the meat may be served with the broth.

### Irish Stew with Dumplings

Wipe and cut in pieces three pounds lamb from the fore-quarter. Put in kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly two hours or until tender. After cooking one hour add one-half cup each carrot and turnip cut in one-half inch cubes, and one onion cut in slices. Fifteen minutes before serving add four cups potatoes cut in one-fourth inch slices, previously parboiled five minutes in boiling water. Thicken with one-fourth cup flour, diluted with enough cold water to form a thin smooth paste. Season with salt and pepper, serve with Dumplings. (See p. 205.)

### Scotch Broth

Wipe three pounds mutton cut from fore-quarter. Cut lean meat in one-inch cubes, put in kettle, cover with three 222pints cold water, bring quickly to boiling-point, skim, and add one-half cup barley which has been soaked in cold water over night; simmer one and one-half hours, or until meat is tender. Put bones in a second kettle, cover with cold water, heat slowly to boiling-point, skim, and boil one and one-half hours. Strain water from bones and add to meat. Fry five minutes in two tablespoons butter, one-fourth cup each of carrot, turnip, onion, and celery, cut in one-half inch dice, add to soup with salt and pepper to taste, and cook until vegetables are soft. Thicken with two tablespoons each of butter and flour cooked together. Add one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley just before serving. Rice may be used in place of barley.

### Lambs’ Kidneys I

Soak, pare, and cut in slices six kidneys, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Melt two tablespoons butter in hot frying-pan, put in kidneys, and cook five minutes; dredge thoroughly with flour, and add two-thirds cup boiling water or hot Brown Stock. Cook five minutes, add more salt and pepper if needed. Lemon juice, onion juice, or Madeira wine may be used for additional flavor. Kidneys must be cooked a short time, or for several hours; they are tender after a few minutes’ cooking, but soon toughen, and need hours of cooking to again make them tender.

### Lambs’ Kidneys II

Soak, pare, trim, and slice six kidneys. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, sauté in butter, and remove to a hot dish. Cook one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion in two tablespoons butter until brown; add three tablespoons flour, and pour on slowly one and one-half cups hot stock. Season with salt and pepper, strain, add kidneys, and one tablespoon Madeira wine.

### Ragout of Kidneys

Soak lambs’ kidneys one hour in lukewarm water. Drain, clean, cut in slices, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. Fry one sliced onion and 223one-half shallot, finely chopped, in three tablespoons butter until yellow; add three tablespoons flour and one and one-fourth cups Brown Stock. Cook five minutes, strain, and add one-half cup mushroom caps peeled and cut in quarters; season with salt and pepper, add kidneys, and serve as soon as heated. White wine may be added if desired.

### Kidney Rolls

Mix one-half cup stale bread crumbs, one-half small onion, finely chopped, and one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper and moisten with beaten egg. Spread mixture on thin slices of bacon, fasten around pieces of lambs’ kidney, using skewers. Bake in a hot oven twenty minutes.

### WAYS OF WARMING OVER MUTTON AND LAMB

#### Minced Lamb on Toast

Remove dry pieces of skin and gristle from remnants of cold roast lamb, then chop meat. Heat in well-buttered frying-pan, season with salt, pepper, and celery salt, and moisten with a little hot water or stock; or, after seasoning, dredge well with flour, stir, and add enough stock to make thin gravy. Pour over small slices of buttered toast.

#### Scalloped Lamb

Remove skin and fat from thin slices of cold roast lamb, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover bottom of a buttered baking-dish with buttered cracker crumbs; cover meat with boiled macaroni, and add another layer of meat and macaroni. Pour over Tomato Sauce, and cover with buttered cracker crumbs. Bake in hot oven until crumbs are brown. Cold boiled rice may be used in place of macaroni.

#### Blanquette of Lamb

Cut remnants of cooked lamb in cubes or strips. Reheat two cups meat in two cups sauce,—sauce made of one-fourth cup each of butter and flour, one cup White Stock, and one cup of milk which has been scalded with two blades 224of mace. Season with salt and pepper, and add one tablespoon Mushroom Catsup, or any other suitable table sauce. Garnish with large croûtons, serve around green peas, or in a potato border, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

#### Barbecued Lamb

Cut cold roast lamb in thin slices and reheat in sauce made by melting two tablespoons butter, adding three-fourths tablespoon vinegar, one-fourth cup currant jelly, one-fourth teaspoon French mustard, and salt and cayenne to taste.

#### Rechauffé of Lamb

Brown two tablespoons butter, add two and one-half tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add one-fourth teaspoon, each, curry powder, mustard, and salt, and one-eighth teaspoon paprika. Add, gradually, one cup brown stock and two tablespoons sherry wine. Reheat cold roast lamb cut in thin slices in sauce.

#### Salmi of Lamb

Cut cold roast lamb in thin slices. Cook five minutes two tablespoons butter with one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion. Add lamb, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover with one cup Brown Sauce, or one cup cold lamb gravy seasoned with Worcestershire, Harvey, or Elizabeth Sauce. Cook until thoroughly heated. Arrange slices overlapping one another lengthwise of platter, pour around sauce, and garnish with toast points. A few sliced mushrooms or stoned olives improve this sauce.

#### Casserole of Rice and Meat

Line a mould, slightly greased, with steamed rice. Fill the centre with two cups cold, finely chopped, cooked mutton, highly seasoned with salt, pepper, cayenne, celery salt, onion juice and lemon juice; then add one-fourth cup cracker crumbs, one egg slightly beaten, and enough hot stock or water to moisten. Cover meat with rice, cover rice with buttered paper to keep out moisture while steaming, and steam forty-five minutes. Serve on a platter surrounded 225with Tomato Sauce. Veal may be used in place of mutton.

#### Breast of Lamb

Wipe a breast of lamb, put in kettle with bouquet of sweet herbs, a small onion stuck with six cloves, one-half tablespoon salt, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, and one-fourth cup each carrot and turnip cut in dice. Cover with boiling water, and simmer until bones will slip out easily. Take meat from water, remove bones, and press under weight. When cool, trim in shape, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve with Spanish Sauce. Small pieces of cold lamb may be sprinkled with salt and pepper, dipped in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fried in deep fat.

226

## CHAPTER XIV
VEAL

Veal is the meat obtained from a young calf killed when six to eight weeks old. Veal from a younger animal is very unwholesome, and is liable to provoke serious gastric disturbances. Veal contains a much smaller percentage of fat than beef or mutton, is less nutritious, and (though from a young creature) more difficult of digestion. Like lamb, it is not improved by long hanging, but should be eaten soon after killing and dressing. It should always be remembered that the flesh of young animals does not keep fresh as long as that of older ones. Veal is divided in same manner as lamb, into fore and hind quarters. The fore-quarter is subdivided into breast, shoulder, and neck; the hind-quarter into loin, leg, and knuckle. Cutlets, fillets (cushion), and fricandeau are cut from the thick part of leg.

Good veal may be known by its pinkish-colored flesh and white fat; when the flesh lacks color, it has been taken from a creature which was too young to kill for food, or, if of the right age, was bled before killing. Veal may be obtained throughout the year, but is in season during the spring. Veal should be thoroughly cooked; being deficient in fat and having but little flavor, pork or butter should be added while cooking, and more seasoning is required than for other meats.

### Veal Cutlets

Use slices of veal from leg cut one-half inch thick. Wipe, remove bone and skin, then cut in pieces for serving. The long, irregular-shaped pieces may be rolled, and fastened with small wooden skewers. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; 227dip in flour, egg, and crumbs; fry slowly, until well browned, in salt pork fat or butter; then remove cutlets to stewpan and pour over one and one-half cups Brown Sauce. Place on back of range and cook slowly forty minutes, or until cutlets are tender.

Veal may be cooked first in boiling water until tender, then crumbed and fried. The water in which veal was cooked may be used for sauce. Arrange on hot platter, strain sauce and pour around cutlets, and garnish with parsley.

Brown Sauce. Brown three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned. Add gradually one and one-half cups stock or water, or half stock and half stewed and strained tomatoes. Season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and Worcestershire Sauce. The trimmings from veal (including skin and bones) may be covered with one and one-half cups cold water, allowed to heat slowly to boiling-point, then cooked, strained, and used for sauce.

### Veal Chops Bavarian

Wipe six loin chops and put in a stewpan with one-half onion, eight slices carrot, two stalks celery, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, four cloves, and two tablespoons butter. Cover with boiling water and cook until tender. Drain, season with salt and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Arrange chops on hot serving dish and surround with boiled flat macaroni to which Soubise Sauce (see p. 267) is added.

### Fricassee of Veal

Wipe two pounds sliced veal, cut from loin, and cover with boiling water; add one small onion, two stalks celery, and six slices carrot. Cook slowly until meat is tender. Remove meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in pork fat. Strain liquor (there should be two cups). Melt four tablespoons butter, add four tablespoons flour and strained liquor. Bring to boiling-point, season with salt and pepper, and pour around meat. Garnish with parsley.

228

### Minuten Fleisch

1½ lbs. veal cut in thin slices
Salt and pepper
⅔ cup claret wine
Flour
1⅓ cups Brown Stock
Juice 1 lemon
2 sprigs parsley

Pound veal until one-fourth inch thick and cut in pieces for serving. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, put in baking-pan, pour over wine, and let stand thirty minutes. Drain, dip in flour, arrange in two buttered pans, and pour over remaining ingredients and wine which was drained from meat. Cover, and cook slowly until meat is tender. Remove to serving dish and pour over sauce remaining in pan.

### Loin of Veal à la Jardinière

Wipe four pounds loin of veal, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Put one-fourth cup butter in deep stewpan; when melted, add veal and brown entire surface of meat, watching carefully and turning often, that it may not burn. Add one cup hot water, cover closely, and cook slowly two hours, or until meat is tender, adding more water as needed, using in all about three cups. Remove meat, thicken stock remaining in pan with flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Surround the meat with two cups each boiled turnips and carrots, cut in half-inch cubes, and potatoes cut in balls. Serve gravy in a tureen.

### Braised Shoulder of Veal

Bone, stuff, and sew in shape five pounds shoulder of veal; then cook same as Braised Beef, adding with vegetables two sprigs thyme and one of marjoram.

### English Meat Pie

Knuckle of veal
1 slice onion
1 slice carrot
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
12 peppercorns
Blade of mace
2 teaspoons salt
½ lb. lean raw ham
4 tablespoons flour
4 tablespoons butter
2 doz. bearded oysters

Remove meat from bones. Cover bones with cold water, add vegetables and seasonings, and heat slowly to boiling-point. 229Add meat, boil five minutes, and let simmer until meat is tender; remove meat and reduce stock to two cups. Put ham in frying-pan, cover with lukewarm water, and let stand on back of range one hour. Brown butter, add flour, and when well browned add stock; then add veal and ham each cut into cubes. Let simmer twenty minutes and add oysters. Put in serving dish and cover with top made of puff paste. It is much better to bake the paste separately and cover pie just before sending to table.

### Roast Veal

The leg, cushion (thickest part of leg), and loin, are suitable pieces for roasting. When leg is to be used, it should be boned at market. Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, stuff, and sew in shape. Place on rack in dripping-pan, dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour, and place around meat strips of fat salt pork. Bake three or four hours in moderate oven, basting every fifteen minutes with one-third cup butter melted in one-half cup boiling water, until used, then baste with fat in pan. Serve with brown gravy.

### Fricandeau of Veal

Lard a cushion of veal and roast or braise.

### India Curry

Wipe a slice of veal one-half inch thick, weighing one and one-half pounds, and cook in frying-pan without butter, quickly searing one side, then the other. Place on a board and cut in one and one-half inch pieces. Fry two sliced onions in one-half cup butter until brown, remove onions, and add to the butter, meat, and one-half tablespoon curry powder, then cover with boiling water. Cook slowly until meat is tender. Thicken with flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily; then add one teaspoon vinegar. Serve with a border of steamed rice.

### Veal Birds

Wipe slices of veal from leg, cut as thinly as possible, then remove bone, skin, and fat. Pound until one-fourth inch thick and cut in pieces two and one-half inches long by one and one-half inches wide, each piece making a bird. 230Chop trimmings of meat, adding for every three birds a piece of fat salt pork cut one inch square and one-fourth inch thick; pork also to be chopped. Add to trimmings and pork one-half their measure of fine cracker crumbs, and season highly with salt, pepper, cayenne, poultry seasoning, lemon juice, and onion juice. Moisten with beaten egg and hot water or stock. Spread each piece with thin layer of mixture and avoid having mixture come close to edge. Roll, and fasten with skewers. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry in hot butter until a golden brown. Put in stewpan, add cream to half cover meat, cook slowly twenty minutes or until tender. Serve on small pieces of toast, straining cream remaining in pan over birds and toast, and garnish with parsley. A Thin White Sauce in place of cream may be served around birds.

### Veal Loaf I

Separate a knuckle of veal in pieces by sawing through bone. Wipe, put in kettle with one pound lean veal and one onion; cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until veal is tender. Drain, chop meat finely, and season highly with salt and pepper. Garnish bottom of a mould with slices of “hard-boiled” eggs and parsley. Put in layer of meat, layer of thinly sliced “hard-boiled” eggs, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, and cover with remaining meat. Pour over liquor, which should be reduced to one cupful. Press and chill, turn on a dish, and garnish with parsley.

### Veal Loaf II

Wipe three pounds lean veal, and remove skin and membrane. Chop finely or force through meat chopper, then add one-half pound fat salt pork (also finely chopped), six common crackers (rolled), four tablespoons cream, two tablespoons lemon juice, one tablespoon salt, one-half tablespoon pepper, and a few drops onion juice. Pack in a small bread pan, smooth evenly on top, brush with white of egg, and bake slowly three hours, basting with one-fourth cup pork fat. Prick frequently while baking, that pork fat may be absorbed by meat. Cool, remove from pan, and cut in thin slices for serving.

231

### Broiled Veal Kidneys

Order veal kidneys with the suet left on. Trim, split, and broil ten minutes. Arrange on pieces of toast and pour over melted butter seasoned with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice.

### Veal Kidneys à la Canfield

Trim kidneys, cook in Brown Stock ten minutes, drain, and cut in slices. Arrange alternate slices of kidney and thinly sliced bacon on skewers with a fresh mushroom cap at either end of each skewer. Broil until bacon is crisp and arrange on pieces of toast. Pour over sauce made from stock in which kidneys were cooked, seasoned with salt, cayenne, and Madeira wine.

### WAYS OF WARMING OVER VEAL

#### Minced Veal on Toast

Prepare as Minced Lamb on Toast, using veal in place of lamb.

#### Blanquette of Veal

Reheat two cups cold roast veal, cut in small strips, in one and one-half cups White Sauce I. Serve in a potato border and sprinkle over all finely chopped parsley.

#### Ragoût of Veal

Reheat two cups cold roast veal, cut in cubes, in one and one-half cups Brown Sauce seasoned with one teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce, few drops of onion juice, and a few grains of cayenne.

232

## CHAPTER XV
SWEETBREADS

A sweetbread is the thymus gland of lamb or calf, but in cookery, veal sweetbreads only are considered. It is prenatally developed, of unknown function, and as soon as calf is taken from liquid food it gradually disappears. Pancreas, stomach sweetbread, is sold in some sections of the country, but in our markets this custom is not practised. Sweetbreads are a reputed table delicacy, and a valuable addition to the menu of the convalescent.

A sweetbread consists of two parts, connected by tubing and membranes. The round, compact part is called the heart sweetbread, as its position is nearer the heart; the other part is called the throat sweetbread. When sweetbread is found in market separated, avoid buying two of the throat sweetbreads, as the heart sweetbread is more desirable.

Sweetbreads spoil very quickly. They should be removed from paper as soon as received from market, plunged into cold water and allowed to stand one hour, drained, and put into acidulated salted boiling water then allowed to cook slowly twenty minutes; again drained, and plunged into cold water, that they may be kept white and firm. Sweetbreads are always parboiled in this manner for subsequent cooking.

### Broiled Sweetbread

Parboil a sweetbread, split crosswise, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and broil five minutes. Serve with Lemon Butter.

233

### Creamed Sweetbread

Parboil a sweetbread, and cut in one-half inch cubes, or separate in small pieces. Reheat in one cup White Sauce II. Creamed Sweetbread may be served on toast, or used as filling for patty cases or Swedish Timbales.

### Creamed Sweetbread and Chicken

Reheat equal parts of cold cooked chicken, and sweetbread cut in dice, in White Sauce II.

### Sweetbread à la Poulette

Reheat sweetbread, cut in cubes, in one cup Béchamel Sauce.

### Sweetbreads, Country Style

Parboil sweetbreads, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Arrange in baking-dish, brush over with melted butter, allowing two tablespoons to each pair of sweetbreads, and cover with thin slices fat salt pork. Bake in a hot oven over twenty-five minutes, basting twice during the cooking, and remove pork during the last five minutes of the cooking.

### Larded Sweetbread

Parboil a sweetbread, lard the upper side, and bake until well browned, basting with Meat Glaze.

### Sweetbreads à la Napoli

Parboil a large sweetbread and cut in eight pieces. Cook in hot frying-pan with a small quantity of butter, adding enough beef extract to give sweetbread a glazed appearance. Cut bread in slices, shape with a circular cutter three and one-half inches in diameter, and toast. Spread each piece with two tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese seasoned with salt and paprika and moistened with two tablespoons heavy cream. Arrange one piece of sweetbread on each piece of toast. Put in individual glass-covered dishes, having two tablespoons cream in each dish. Cover each piece of sweetbread with sautéd mushroom cap, put on glass covers, and bake in a moderate oven eight minutes.

234

### Braised Sweetbreads Eugénie

Parboil a sweetbread in Sherry wine twelve minutes. Drain, cool, cut in four pieces, and lard. Cook in frying-pan same as Sweetbreads à la Napoli. Peel mushroom caps, cover with Sherry wine, let stand one hour, drain, and sauté in butter. Arrange on circular pieces of toast, over each of which has been poured one teaspoon wine drained from mushroom caps. Pile five or six mushroom caps on each piece of sweetbread, add two tablespoons heavy cream, and bake in a moderate oven, eight minutes. Cook in individual glass-covered dishes.

### Sweetbread Cutlets with Asparagus Tips

Parboil a sweetbread, split, and cut in pieces shaped like a small cutlet, or cut in circular pieces. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and sauté in butter. Arrange in a circle around Creamed Asparagus Tips.

### Sweetbread with Tomato Sauce

Prepare as Sweetbread Cutlets with Asparagus Tips, sauté in butter or fry in deep fat, and serve with Tomato Sauce.

### Sweetbread and Bacon

Parboil a sweetbread, cut in small pieces, dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, and arrange alternately with pieces of bacon on small skewers, having four pieces sweetbread and three of bacon on each skewer. Fry in deep fat, and drain. Arrange in a circle around mound of green peas.

Sweetbread à la Napoli.—Page 233.

Braised Sweetbreads Eugénie.—Page 234.

Breslin Potted Chicken in Casserole Dish.—Page 252.

Broiled Chicken garnished with French Fried Potatoes, Slices Broiled Tomatoes, Parsley, and Lettuce.—Page 245.

235

## CHAPTER XVI
PORK

Pork is the flesh and fat of pig or hog. Different parts of the creature, when dressed, take different names.

The chine and spareribs, which correspond to the loin in lamb and veal, are used for roasts or steaks. Two ribs are left on the chine. The hind legs furnish hams. These are cured, salted, and smoked. Sugar-cured hams are considered the best. Pickle, to which is added light brown sugar, molasses, and saltpetre, is introduced close to bone; hams are allowed to hang one week, then smoked with hickory wood. Shoulders are usually corned, or salted and smoked, though sometimes cooked fresh. Pigs’ feet are boiled until tender, split, and covered with vinegar made from white wine. Hocks, the part just above the feet, are corned, and much used by Germans. Heads are soused, and cooked by boiling. The flank, which lies just below the ribs, is salted and smoked, and furnishes bacon. The best pieces of fat salt pork come from the back, on either side of backbone.

Fat, when separated from flesh and membrane, is tried out and called lard. Leaf lard is the best, and is tried out from the leaf shaped pieces of solid fat which lie inside the flank. Sausages are trimmings of lean and fat meat, minced, highly seasoned, and forced into thin casings made of the prepared entrails. Little pigs (four weeks old) are sometimes killed; dressed, and roasted whole.

Pork contains the largest percentage of fat of any meat. When eaten fresh it is the most difficult of digestion, and 236although found in market through the entire year, it should be but seldom served, and then only during the winter months. By curing, salting, and smoking, pork is rendered more wholesome. Bacon, next to butter and cream, is the most easily assimilated of all fatty foods.

### Pork Chops

Wipe chops, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place in a hot frying-pan, and cook slowly until tender, and well browned on each side.

### Pork Chops with Fried Apples

Arrange Pork Chops on a platter, and surround with slices of apples, cut one-half inch thick, fried in the fat remaining in pan.

### Roast Pork

Wipe pork, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on a rack in a dripping-pan, and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Bake in a moderate oven three or four hours, basting every fifteen minutes with fat in pan. Make a gravy as for other roasts.

### Pork Tenderloins with Sweet Potatoes

Wipe tenderloins, put in a dripping-pan, and brown quickly in a hot oven; then sprinkle with salt and pepper, and bake forty-five minutes, basting every fifteen minutes.

Sweet Potatoes. Pare six potatoes and parboil ten minutes, drain, put in pan with meat, and cook until soft, basting when basting meat.

### Breakfast Bacon

See Liver and Bacon, page 207.

### Fried Salt Pork with Codfish

Cut fat salt pork in one-fourth inch slices, cut gashes one-third inch apart in slices, nearly to rind. Try out in a hot frying-pan until brown and crisp, occasionally turning off fat from pan. Serve around strips of codfish which have been soaked in pan of lukewarm water and allowed to stand on back of range until soft. Serve with Drawn Butter Sauce, boiled potatoes, and beets.

237

### Broiled Ham

Soak thin slices of ham one hour in lukewarm water. Drain, wipe, and broil three minutes.

### Fried Ham and Eggs

Wipe ham, remove one-half outside layer of fat, and place in frying-pan. Cover with tepid water and let stand on back of range thirty minutes; drain, and dry on a towel. Heat pan, put in ham, brown quickly on one side, turn and brown other side; or soak ham over night, dry, and cook in hot frying-pan. If cooked too long, ham will become hard and dry. Serve with fried eggs cooked in the dried-out ham fat.

### Barbecued Ham

Soak thin slices of ham one hour in lukewarm water; drain, wipe, and cook in a hot frying-pan until slightly browned. Remove to serving dish and add to fat in pan three tablespoons vinegar mixed with one and one-half teaspoons mustard, one-half teaspoon sugar, and one-eighth teaspoon paprika. When thoroughly heated pour over ham and serve at once.

### Boiled Ham

Soak several hours or over night in cold water to cover. Wash thoroughly, trim off hard skin near end of bone, put in a kettle, cover with cold water, heat to boiling-point, and cook slowly until tender. See Time Table for Cooking, page 28. Remove kettle from range and set aside, that ham may partially cool; then take from water, remove outside skin, sprinkle with sugar and fine cracker crumbs, and stick with cloves one-half inch apart. Bake one hour in a slow oven. Serve cold, thinly sliced.

### Roast Ham with Champagne Sauce

Place a whole baked ham in the oven fifteen minutes before serving time, that outside fat may be heated. Remove to a hot platter, garnish bone end with a paper ruffle, and serve with Champagne Sauce.

238

### Westphalian Ham

These hams are imported from Germany, and need no additional cooking. Cut in very thin slices for serving.

### Broiled Pigs’ Feet

Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and broil six to eight minutes. Serve with Maître d’Hôtel Butter or Sauce Piquante.

### Fried Pigs’ Feet

Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain.

### Sausages

Cut apart a string of sausages. Pierce each sausage several times with a carving fork. Put in frying-pan, cover with boiling water, and cook fifteen minutes; drain, return to frying-pan, and fry until well browned. Serve with fried apples. Sausages are often broiled same as bacon and apples baked in pan under them.

### Boston Baked Beans

Pick over one quart pea beans, cover with cold water, and soak over night. In morning, drain, cover with fresh water, heat slowly (keeping water below boiling-point), and cook until skins will burst,—which is best determined by taking a few beans on the tip of a spoon and blowing on them, when skins will burst if sufficiently cooked. Beans thus tested must, of course, be thrown away. Drain beans, throwing bean-water out of doors, not in sink. Scald rind of three-fourths pound fat salt pork, scrape, remove one-fourth inch slice and put in bottom of bean-pot. Cut through rind of remaining pork every one-half inch, making cuts one inch deep. Put beans in pot and bury pork in beans, leaving rind exposed. Mix one tablespoon salt, one tablespoon molasses, and three tablespoons sugar; add one cup boiling water, and pour over beans; then add enough more boiling water to cover beans. Cover bean-pot, put in oven, and bake slowly six or eight hours, uncovering the last hour of 239cooking, that rind may become brown and crisp. Add water as needed. Many feel sure that by adding with seasonings one-half tablespoon mustard, the beans are more easily digested. If pork mixed with lean is preferred, use less salt.

The fine reputation which Boston Baked Beans have gained has been attributed to the earthen bean-pot with small top and bulging sides in which they are supposed to be cooked. Equally good beans have often been eaten where a five-pound lard pail was substituted for the broken bean-pot.

Yellow-eyed beans are very good when baked.

240

## CHAPTER XVII
POULTRY AND GAME

Poultry includes all domestic birds suitable for food except pigeon and squab. Examples: chicken, fowl, turkey, duck, goose, etc. Game includes such birds and animals suitable for food as are pursued and taken in field and forest. Examples: quail, partridge, wild duck, plover, deer, etc.

The flesh of chicken, fowl, and turkey has much shorter fibre than that of ruminating animals, and is not intermingled with fat,—the fat always being found in layers directly under the skin, and surrounding the intestines. Chicken, fowl, and turkey are nutritious, and chicken is specially easy of digestion. The white meat found on breast and wing is more readily digested than the dark meat. The legs, on account of constant motion, are of a coarser fibre and darker color.

Since incubators have been so much used for hatching chickens, small birds suitable for broiling may be always found in market. Chickens which appear in market during January weighing about one and one-half pounds are called spring chickens.

Fowl is found in market throughout the year, but is at its best from March until June.

Philadelphia, until recently, furnished our market with Philadelphia chickens and capons, but now Massachusetts furnishes equally good ones, which are found in market from December to June. They are very large, plump, and superior eating. At an early age they are deprived of the organs of reproduction, penned, and specially fatted for killing. 241They are recognized by the presence of head, tail, and wing feathers.

Turkeys are found in market throughout the year, but are best during the winter months. Tame ducks and geese are very indigestible on account of the large quantity of fat they contain. Goose meat is thoroughly infiltrated with fat, containing sometimes forty to forty-five per cent. Pigeons, being old birds, need long, slow cooking to make them tender. Squabs (young pigeons) make a delicious tidbit for the convalescent, and are often the first meat allowed a patient by the physician.

The flesh of game, with the exception of wild duck and wild geese, is tender, contains less fat than poultry, is of fine though strong flavor, and easy of digestion. Game meat is usually of dark color, partridge and quail being exceptions, and is usually cooked rare. Venison, the flesh of deer, is short-fibred, dark-colored, highly savored, tender, and easy of digestion; being highly savored, it often disagrees with those of weak digestion.

Geese are in market throughout the year; Massachusetts and Rhode Island furnishing specially good ones. A goose twelve weeks old is known as a green goose. They may be found in market from May to September. Young geese which appear in market September first and continue through December are called goslings. They have been hatched during May and June, and then fatted for market.

Young ducks, found in market about March first, are called ducklings. Canvasback Ducks have gained a fine reputation throughout the country, and are found in market from the last of November until March. Redhead Ducks are in season two weeks earlier, and are about as good eating as Canvasback Ducks, and much less in price. The distinctive flavor of both is due to the wild celery on which they feed. Many other kinds of ducks are found in market during the fall and winter. Examples: Widgeon, Mallard, Lake Erie Teal, Black Ducks, and Butterballs.

Fresh quail are in market from October fifteenth to January first, the law forbidding their being killed at any other time in the year. The same is true of partridge, but both 242are frozen and kept in cold storage several months. California sends frozen quail in large numbers to Eastern markets. Grouse (prairie chicken) are always obtainable,—fresh ones in the fall; later, those kept in cold storage. Plover may be bought from April until December.

To Select Poultry and Game. A chicken is known by soft feet, smooth skin, and soft cartilage at end of breastbone. An abundance of pinfeathers always indicates a young bird, while the presence of long hairs denotes age. In a fowl the feet have become hard and dry with coarse scales, and cartilage at end of breastbone has ossified. Cock turkeys are usually better eating than hen turkeys, unless hen turkey is young, small, and plump. A good turkey should be plump, have smooth dark legs, and cartilage at end of breastbone soft and pliable. Good geese abound in pinfeathers. Small birds should be plump, have soft feet and pliable bills.

To Dress and Clean Poultry. Remove hairs and down by holding the bird over a flame (from gas, alcohol, or burning paper) and constantly changing position until all parts of surface have been exposed to flame; this is known as singeing. Cut off the head and draw out pinfeathers, using a small pointed knife. Cut through the skin around the leg one and one-half inches below the leg joint, care being taken not to cut tendons; place leg at this cut over edge of board, press downward to snap the bone, then take foot in right hand, holding bird firmly in left hand, and pull off foot, and with it the tendons. In old birds the tendons must be drawn separately, which is best accomplished by using a steel skewer. Make an incision through skin below breastbone, just large enough to admit the hand. With the hand remove entrails, gizzard, heart, and liver; the last three named constitute what is known as giblets. The gall-bladder, lying on the under surface of the right lobe of the liver, is removed with liver, and great care must be taken that it is not broken, as a small quantity of the bile which it contains would impart a bitter flavor to the parts with which it came in contact. Enclosed by the ribs, on either side of backbone, may be found the lungs, of spongy consistency and red color. Care must be taken that every part of them is removed. Kidneys, 243lying in the hollow near end of backbone, must also be removed. By introducing first two fingers under skin close to neck, the windpipe may be easily found and withdrawn; also the crop, which will be found adhering to skin close to breast. Draw down neck skin, and cut off neck close to body, leaving skin long enough to fasten under the back. Remove oil bag, and wash bird by allowing cold water to run through it, not allowing bird to soak in cold water. Wipe inside and outside, looking carefully to see that everything has been withdrawn. If there is disagreeable odor, suggesting that fowl may have been kept too long, clean at once, wash inside and out with soda water, and sprinkle inside with charcoal and place some under wings.

Poultry dressed at market seldom have tendons removed unless so ordered. It is always desirable to have them withdrawn, as they become hard and bony during cooking. It is the practice of market-men to cut a gash through the skin, to easier reach crop and windpipe. This gash must be sewed before stuffing, and causes the bird to look less attractive when cooked.

To Cut up a Fowl. Singe, draw out pinfeathers, cut off head, remove tendons and oil bag. Cut through skin between leg and body close to body, bend back leg (thus breaking ligaments), cut through flesh, and separate at joint. Separate the upper part of leg, second joint, from lower part of leg, drumstick, as leg is separated from body. Remove wing by cutting through skin and flesh around upper wing joint which lies next to body, then disjoint from body. Cut off tip of wing and separate wing at middle joint. Remove leg and wing from other side. Separate breast from back by cutting through skin, beginning two inches below breastbone and passing knife between terminus of small ribs on either side and extending cut to collar-bone. Before removing entrails, gizzard, heart, liver, lungs, kidneys, crop, and windpipe, observe their position, that the anatomy of the bird may be understood. The back is sometimes divided by cutting through the middle crosswise. The wishbone, with adjoining meat, is frequently removed, and the breast meat may be separated in two parts by cutting through flesh close to 244breastbone with cleaver. Wipe pieces, excepting back, with cheese-cloth wrung out of cold water. Back piece needs thorough washing.

To Clean Giblets. Remove thin membrane, arteries, veins, and clotted blood around heart. Separate gall-bladder from liver, cutting off any of liver that may have a greenish tinge. Cut fat and membranes from gizzard. Make a gash through thickest part of gizzard, and cut as far as inner lining, being careful not to pierce it. Remove the inner sack and discard. Wash giblets and cook until tender, with neck and tips of wings, putting them in cold water and heating water quickly that some of the flavor may be drawn out into stock, which is to be used for making gravy.

To Stuff Poultry. Put stuffing by spoonfuls in neck end, using enough to sufficiently fill the skin, that bird may look plump when served. Where cracker stuffing is used, allowance must be made for the swelling of crackers, otherwise skin may burst during cooking. Put remaining stuffing in body; if the body is full, sew skin; if not full, bring skin together with a skewer.

To Truss Fowl. Draw thighs close to body and hold by inserting a steel skewer under middle joint running it through body, coming out under middle joint on other side. Cut piece three-fourths inch wide from neck skin, and with it fasten legs together at ends; or cross drumsticks, tie securely with a long string, and fasten to tail. Place wings close to body and hold them by inserting a second skewer through wing, body, and wing on opposite side. Draw neck skin under back and fasten with a small wooden skewer. Turn bird on its breast. Cross string attached to tail piece and draw it around each end of lower skewer; again cross string and draw around each end of upper skewer; fasten string in a knot and cut off ends. In birds that are not stuffed legs are often passed through incisions cut in body under bones near tail.

To Dress Birds for Broiling. Singe, wipe, and with a sharp-pointed knife, beginning at back of neck, make a cut through backbone the entire length of bird. Lay open the bird and remove contents from inside. Cut out rib bones 245on either side of backbone, remove from breastbone, then cut through tendons at joints.

To Fillet a Chicken. Remove skin from breast, and with a small sharp knife begin at end of collar-bone and cut through flesh, following close to wish and breast bones the entire length of meat. Raise flesh with fingers, and with knife free the piece of meat from bones which lie under it. Cut meat away from wing joint; this solid piece of breast is meat known as a fillet. This meat is easily separated in two parts. The upper, larger part is called the large fillet; the lower part the mignon fillet. The tough skin on the outside of large fillet should be removed, also the sinew from mignon fillet. To remove tough skin, place large fillet on a board, upper side down, make an incision through flesh at top of fillet, and cut entire length of fillet, holding knife as close to skin as possible. Trim edges, that fillet may look shapely.

### Broiled Chicken

Dress for broiling, following directions on page 244. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and place in a well-greased broiler. Broil twenty minutes over a clear fire, watching carefully and turning broiler so that all parts may be equally browned. The flesh side must be exposed to the fire the greater part of time, as the skin side will brown quickly. Remove to a hot platter, spread with soft butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Chickens are so apt to burn while broiling that many prefer to partially cook in oven. Place chicken in dripping-pan, skin side down, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot over with butter, and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven; then broil to finish cooking. Guinea chickens are becoming popular cooked in this way.

### Boiled Fowl

Dress, clean, and truss a four-pound fowl, tie in cheese-cloth, place on trivet in a kettle, half surround with boiling water, cover, and cook slowly until tender, turning occasionally. Add salt the last hour of cooking. Serve with Egg, Oyster, or Celery Sauce. It is not desirable to stuff a boiled fowl.

246

### Boiled Capon with Cauliflower Sauce

Prepare and cook a capon same as Boiled Fowl, and serve surrounded with Cauliflower Sauce and garnished with parsley.

### Chicken à la Providence

Prepare and boil a chicken, following recipe for Boiled Fowl. The liquor should be reduced to two cups, and used for making sauce, with two tablespoons each butter and flour cooked together. Add to sauce one-half cup each of cooked carrot (cut in fancy shapes) and green peas, one teaspoon lemon juice, yolks two eggs, salt and pepper. Place chicken on hot platter, surround with sauce, and sprinkle chicken and sauce with one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley.

### Stewed Chicken with Onions

Dress, clean, and cut in pieces for serving, two chickens. Cook in a small quantity of water with eighteen tiny young onions. Remove chicken to serving dish as soon as tender, and when onions are soft drain from stock and reduce stock to one and one-half cups. Make sauce of three tablespoons butter, four tablespoons flour, stock, and one-half cup heavy cream; then add yolks three eggs, salt, pepper, and lemon juice to taste. Pour sauce over chicken and onions.

### Chicken à la Stanley

Melt one-fourth cup butter, add one large onion thinly sliced, and two broilers cut in pieces for serving; cover, and cook slowly ten minutes; then add one cup Chicken Stock, and cook until meat is tender. Remove chickens, rub stock and onions through a sieve, and add one and one-half tablespoons each butter and flour cooked together. Add cream to make sauce of the right consistency. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange chicken on serving dish, pour around sauce, and garnish dish with bananas cut in diagonal slices dipped in flour and sautéd in butter.

### Chili Con Carni

Clean, singe, and cut in pieces for serving, two young chickens. Season with salt and pepper, and sauté in butter. 247Remove seeds and veins from eight red peppers, cover with boiling water, and cook until soft; mash, and rub through a sieve. Add one teaspoon salt, one onion finely chopped, two cloves of garlic finely chopped, the chicken, and boiling water to cover. Cook until chicken is tender. Remove to serving dish, and thicken sauce with three tablespoons each butter and flour cooked together; there should be one and one-half cups sauce. Canned pimentoes may be used in place of red peppers.

### Roast Chicken

Dress, clean, stuff, and truss a chicken. Place on its back on rack in a dripping-pan, rub entire surface with salt, and spread breast and legs with three tablespoons butter, rubbed until creamy and mixed with two tablespoons flour. Dredge bottom of pan with flour. Place in a hot oven, and when flour is well browned, reduce the heat, then baste. Continue basting every ten minutes until chicken is cooked. For basting, use one-fourth cup butter, melted in two-thirds cup boiling water, and after this is gone, use fat in pan, and when necessary to prevent flour burning, add one cup boiling water. During cooking, turn chicken frequently, that it may brown evenly. If a thick crust is desired, dredge bird with flour two or three times during cooking. If a glazed surface is preferred, spread bird with butter, omitting flour, and do not dredge during baking. When breast meat is tender, bird is sufficiently cooked. A four-pound chicken requires about one and one-half hours.

### Stuffing I

1 cup cracker crumbs
⅓ cup butter
⅓ cup boiling water
Salt and Pepper
Powdered sage, summer savory, or marjoram

Melt butter in water, and pour over crackers, to which seasonings have been added.

### Stuffing II

1 cup cracker crumbs
¼ cup melted butter
Sage of Poultry Seasoning
Salt
Pepper
⅔ cup scalded milk

Make same as Stuffing I.

248

### Gravy

Pour off liquid in pan in which chicken has been roasted. From liquid skim off four tablespoons fat; return fat to pan, and brown with four tablespoons flour; add two cups stock in which giblets, neck, and tips of wings have been cooked. Cook five minutes, season with salt and pepper, then strain. The remaining fat may be used, in place of butter, for frying potatoes, or for basting when roasting another chicken.

For Giblet Gravy, add to the above, giblets (heart, liver, and gizzard) finely chopped.

### Braised Chicken

Dress, clean, and truss a four-pound fowl. Try out two slices fat salt pork cut one-fourth inch thick; remove scraps, and add to fat five slices carrot cut in small cubes, one-half sliced onion, two sprigs thyme, one sprig parsley, and one bay leaf, then cook ten minutes; add two tablespoons butter, and fry fowl, turning often until surface is well browned. Place on trivet in a deep pan, pour over fat, and add two cups boiling water or Chicken Stock. Cover, and bake in slow oven until tender, basting often, and adding more water if needed. Serve with a sauce made from stock in pan, first straining and removing the fat.

### Chicken Fricassee

Dress, clean, and cut up a fowl. Put in a kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until tender, adding salt to water when chicken is about half done. Remove from water, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter or pork fat. Arrange chicken on pieces of dry toast placed on a hot platter, having wings and second joints opposite each other, breast in centre of platter, and drumsticks crossed just below second joints. Pour around White or Brown Sauce. Reduce stock to two cups, strain, and remove the fat. Melt three tablespoons butter, add four tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half cups stock. Just before serving, add one-half cup cream, and salt and pepper to taste; 249or make a sauce by browning butter and flour and adding two cups stock, then seasoning with salt and pepper.

Fowls, which are always made tender by long cooking, are frequently utilized in this way. If chickens are employed, they are sautéd without previous boiling, and allowed to simmer fifteen to twenty minutes in the sauce.

### Fried Chicken

Fried chicken is prepared and cooked same as Chicken Fricassee, with Brown Sauce, chicken always being used, never fowl.

### Fried Chicken (Southern Style)

Clean, singe, and cut in pieces for serving, two young chickens. Plunge in cold water, drain but do not wipe. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and coat thickly with flour, having as much flour adhere to chicken as possible. Try out one pound fat salt pork cut in pieces, and cook chicken slowly in fat until tender and well browned. Serve with White Sauce made of half milk and half cream.

### Maryland Chicken

Dress, clean, and cut up two chickens. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, place in a well-greased dripping-pan, and bake thirty minutes in a hot oven, basting after first five minutes of cooking with one-third cup melted butter. Arrange on platter and pour over two cups Cream Sauce.

### Blanketed Chicken

Split and clean two broilers. Place in dripping-pan and sprinkle with salt, pepper, two tablespoons green pepper finely chopped, and one tablespoon chives finely cut. Cover with strips of bacon thinly cut, and bake in a hot oven until chicken is tender. Remove to serving dish and pour around the following sauce:

To three tablespoons fat, taken from dripping-pan, add four tablespoons flour and one and one-half cups thin cream, or half chicken stock and half cream may be used. Season with salt and pepper.

250

### Chicken à la Merango

Dress, clean, and cut up a chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in salt pork fat. Put in a stewpan, cover with sauce, and cook slowly until chicken is tender. Add one-half can mushrooms cut in quarters, and cook five minutes. Arrange chicken on serving dish and pour around sauce; garnish with parsley.

### Sauce

¼ cup butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
1 slice carrot, cut in cubes
1 slice turnip, cut in cubes
¼ cup flour
2 cups boiling water
½ cup stewed and strained tomato
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Few grains cayenne

Cook butter five minutes with vegetables. Add flour, with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and cook until flour is well browned. Add gradually water and tomato; cook five minutes, then strain.

### Baked Chicken

Dress, clean, and cut up two chickens. Place in a dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and dot over with one-fourth cup butter. Bake thirty minutes in a hot oven, basting every five minutes with one-fourth cup butter melted in one-fourth cup boiling water. Serve with gravy made by using fat in pan, one-fourth cup flour, one cup each Chicken Stock and cream, salt and pepper.

### Planked Chicken

¼ cup butter
Red pepper | ¼ tablespoon each, finely chopped
Green pepper
Parsley
Duchess potatoes
1 teaspoon finely chopped onion
½ clove garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon lemon juice
8 mushroom caps

Cream the butter, add pepper, parsley, onion, garlic, and lemon juice. Split a young chicken as for broiling, place in dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot over with 251butter, and bake in a hot oven until nearly cooked. Butter plank, arrange a border of Duchess Potatoes (see p. 312) close to edge of plank, and remove chicken to plank. Clean, peel, and sauté mushroom caps, place on chicken, spread over prepared butter, and put in a very hot oven to brown potatoes and finish cooking chicken. Serve on the plank.

### Chicken Gumbo

Dress, clean, and cut up a chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in pork fat. Fry one-half finely chopped onion in fat remaining in frying-pan. Add four cups sliced okra, sprig of parsley, and one-fourth red pepper finely chopped, and cook slowly fifteen minutes. Add to chicken, with one and one-half cups tomato, three cups boiling water, and one and one-half teaspoons salt. Cook slowly until chicken is tender, then add one cup boiled rice.

### Chicken Stew

Dress, clean, and cut up a fowl. Put in a stewpan, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until tender, adding one-half tablespoon salt and one-eighth teaspoon pepper when fowl is about half cooked. Thicken stock with one-third cup flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Serve with Dumplings. If desired richer, butter may be added.

### Chicken Pie

Dress, clean, and cut up two fowls or chickens. Put in a stewpan with one-half onion, sprig of parsley, and bit of bay leaf; cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until tender. When chicken is half cooked, add one-half tablespoon salt and one-eighth teaspoon pepper. Remove chicken, strain stock, skim off fat, and then cook until reduced to four cups. Thicken stock with one-third cup flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Place a small cup in centre of baking-dish, arrange around it pieces of chicken, removing some of the larger bones; pour over gravy, and cool. Cover with pie-crust in which several incisions have been made, that there may be an outlet 252for escape of steam and gases. Wet edge of crust and put around a rim, having rim come close to edge. Bake in a moderate oven until crust is well risen and browned. Roll remnants of pastry and cut in diamond-shaped pieces, bake, and serve with pie when reheated. If puff paste is used, it is best to bake top separately.

### Chicken Curry

3 lb. chicken
⅓ cup butter
2 onions
1 tablespoon curry powder
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon vinegar

Clean, dress, and cut chicken in pieces for serving. Put butter in a hot frying-pan, add chicken, and cook ten minutes; then add liver and gizzard and cook ten minutes longer. Cut onions in thin slices, and add to chicken with curry powder and salt. Add enough boiling water to cover, and simmer until chicken is tender. Remove chicken; strain, and thicken liquor with flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Pour gravy over chicken, and serve with a border of rice or Turkish Pilaf.

### Chicken en Casserole

Cut two small, young chickens in pieces for serving. Season with salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter, and bake in a casserole dish twelve minutes. Parboil one-third cup carrots cut in strips five minutes, drain, and fry with one tablespoon finely chopped onion and four thin slices bacon cut in narrow strips. Add one and one-third cups Brown Sauce and two-thirds cup potato balls. Add to chicken, with three tablespoons Sherry wine, salt and pepper to taste. Cook in a moderate oven twenty minutes, or until chicken is tender. If small casserole dishes are used allow but one chicken to each dish.

### Breslin Potted Chicken

Dress, clean, and truss a broiler. Put in a casserole dish, brush over with two and one-half tablespoons melted butter, put on cover, and bake twenty minutes; then add one cup stock and cook until chicken is tender. Thicken stock with one tablespoon, each, butter and flour cooked together, and 253add one-half cup cooked potato balls, one-third cup canned string beans, cut in small pieces, one-third cup cooked carrot, cut in fancy shapes, and six sautéd mushroom caps.

### Jellied Chicken

Dress, clean, and cut up a four-pound fowl. Put in a stewpan with two slices onion, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until meat falls from bones. When half cooked, add one-half tablespoon salt. Remove chicken; reduce stock to three-fourths cup, strain, and skim off fat. Decorate bottom of a mould with parsley and slices of hard-boiled eggs. Pack in meat freed from skin and bone and sprinkled with salt and pepper. Pour on stock and place mould under heavy weight. Keep in a cold place until firm. In summer it is necessary to add one teaspoon dissolved granulated gelatine to stock.

### Chickens’ Livers with Madeira Sauce

Clean and separate livers, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. Brown two tablespoons butter, add two and one-half tablespoons flour, and when well browned add gradually one cup Brown Stock; then add two tablespoons Madeira wine, and reheat livers in sauce.

Chickens’ Livers with Bacon

Clean livers and cut each liver in six pieces. Wrap a thin slice of bacon around each piece and fasten with a small skewer. Put in a broiler, place over a dripping-pan, and bake in a hot oven until bacon is crisp, turning once during cooking.

### Sautéd Chickens’ Livers

Cut one slice bacon in small pieces and cook five minutes with two tablespoons butter. Remove bacon, add one finely chopped shallot, and fry two minutes; then add six chickens’ livers cleaned and separated, and cook two minutes. Add two tablespoons flour, one cup Brown Stock, one teaspoon lemon juice, and one-fourth cup sliced mushrooms. 254Cook two minutes, turn into a serving dish, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

### Chickens’ Livers with Curry

Clean and separate livers. Dip in seasoned crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and sauté in butter. Remove livers, and to fat in pan add two tablespoons butter, one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion, and cook five minutes. Add two tablespoons flour mixed with one-half teaspoon curry powder and one cup stock. Strain sauce over livers, and serve around livers Rice Timbales.

### Boiled Turkey

Prepare and cook same as Boiled Fowl. Serve with Oyster or Celery Sauce.

### Roast Turkey

Dress, clean, stuff, and truss a ten-pound turkey (see pages 242–244). Place on its side on rack in a dripping-pan, rub entire surface with salt, and spread breast, legs, and wings with one-third cup butter, rubbed until creamy and mixed with one-fourth cup flour. Dredge bottom of pan with flour. Place in a hot oven, and when flour on turkey begins to brown, reduce heat, baste with fat in pan, and add two cups boiling water. Continue basting every fifteen minutes until turkey is cooked, which will require about three hours. For basting, use one-half cup butter melted in one-half cup boiling water, and after this is used baste with fat in pan. During cooking turn turkey frequently, that it may brown evenly. If turkey is browning too fast, cover with buttered paper to prevent burning. Remove string and skewers before serving. Garnish with parsley, or celery tips, or curled celery and rings and discs of carrots strung on fine wire.

For stuffing, use double the quantities given in recipes under Roast Chicken. If stuffing is to be served cold, add one beaten egg. Turkey is often roasted with Chestnut Stuffing, Oyster Stuffing, or Turkey Stuffing (Swedish Style).

255

### Chestnut Stuffing

3 cups French chestnuts
½ cup butter
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
¼ cup cream
1 cup cracker crumbs

Shell and blanch chestnuts. Cook in boiling salted water until soft. Drain and mash, using a potato ricer. Add one-half the butter, salt, pepper, and cream. Melt remaining butter, mix with cracker crumbs, then combine mixtures.

### Oyster Stuffing

3 cups stale bread crumbs
½ cup melted butter
Salt and pepper
Few drops onion juice
1 pint oysters

Mix ingredients in the order given, add oysters, cleaned and drained from their liquor.

### Turkey Stuffing (Swedish Style)

2 cups stale bread crumbs
⅔ cup melted butter
½ cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
½ cup English walnut meats, broken in pieces
Salt and pepper
Sage

Mix ingredients in the order given.

### Gravy

Pour off liquid in pan in which turkey has been roasted. From liquid skim off six tablespoons fat; return fat to pan and brown with six tablespoons flour; pour on gradually three cups stock in which giblets, neck, and tips of wings have been cooked, or use liquor left in pan. Cook five minutes, season with salt and pepper; strain. For Giblet Gravy add to the above, giblets (heart, liver, and gizzard) finely chopped.

### Chestnut Gravy

To two cups thin Turkey Gravy add three-fourths cup cooked and mashed chestnuts.

### To Carve Turkey

Bird should be placed on back, with legs at right of platter for carving. Introduce carving fork across breastbone, 256hold firmly in left hand, and with carving knife in right hand cut through skin between leg and body, close to body. With knife pull back leg and disjoint from body. Then cut off wing. Remove leg and wing from other side. Separate second joints from drumsticks and divide wings at joints. Carve breast meat in thin crosswise slices. Under back on either side of backbone may be found two small, oyster-shaped pieces of dark meat, which are dainty tidbits. Chicken and fowl are carved in the same way. For a small family carve but one side of a turkey, that remainder may be left in better condition for second serving.

### Roast Goose with Potato Stuffing

Singe, remove pinfeathers, wash and scrub a goose in hot soapsuds; then draw (which is removing inside contents). Wash in cold water and wipe. Stuff, truss, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and lay six thin strips fat salt pork over breast. Place on rack in dripping-pan, put in hot oven, and bake two hours. Baste every fifteen minutes with fat in pan. Remove pork last half-hour of cooking. Place on platter, cut string, and remove string and skewers. Garnish with watercress and bright red cranberries. Serve with Apple Sauce.

### Potato Stuffing

2 cups hot mashed potato
1¼ cups soft stale bread crumbs
¼ cup finely chopped fat salt pork
1 finely chopped onion
⅓ cup butter
1 egg
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon sage

Add to potato, bread crumbs, butter, egg, salt, and sage; then add pork and onion.

### Goose Stuffing (Chestnut)

½ tablespoon finely chopped shallot
3 tablespoons butter
¼ lb. sausage meat
12 canned mushrooms, finely chopped
1 cup chestnut purée
⅓ cup stale bread crumbs
½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley
24 French chestnuts cooked and left whole
Salt and pepper

Cook shallot with butter five minutes, add sausage meat, and cook two minutes, then add mushrooms, chestnut purée, parsley, and salt and pepper. Heat to boiling-point, add bread crumbs and whole chestnuts. Cool mixture before stuffing goose.

Roast Turkey garnished for serving.—Page 254.

Duck stuffed and trussed for roasting.—Page 257.

Stuffed Egg Plant.—Page 293.

Purée of Spinach.—Page 300.

257

### To Truss a Goose

A goose, having short legs, is trussed differently from chicken, fowl, and turkey. After inserting skewers, wind string twice around one leg bone, then around other leg bone, having one inch space of string between legs. Draw legs with both ends of string close to back, cross string under back, then fasten around skewers and tie in a knot.

### Roast Wild Duck

Dress and clean a wild duck and truss as goose. Place on rack in dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover breast with two very thin slices fat salt pork. Bake twenty to thirty minutes in a very hot oven, basting every five minutes with fat in pan; cut string and remove string and skewers. Serve with Orange or Olive Sauce. Currant jelly should accompany a duck course. Domestic ducks should always be well cooked, requiring little more than twice the time allowed for wild ducks.

Ducks are sometimes stuffed with apples, pared, cored, and cut in quarters, or three small onions may be put in body of duck to improve flavor. Neither apples nor onions are to be served. If a stuffing to be eaten is desired, cover pieces of dry bread with boiling water; as soon as bread has absorbed water, press out the water; season bread with salt, pepper, melted butter, finely chopped onion, or use

### Duck Stuffing (Peanut)

¾ cup cracker crumbs
½ cup shelled peanuts, finely chopped
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons butter
Few drops onion juice
Salt and pepper
Cayenne

Mix ingredients in the order given.

### Braised Duck

Tough ducks are sometimes steamed one hour, and then braised in same manner as chicken.

258

### Broiled Quail

Follow recipe for Broiling Chicken, allowing eight minutes for cooking. Serve on pieces of toast, and garnish with parsley and thin slices of lemon. Currant jelly or Rice Croquettes with Jelly should accompany this course.

### Roast Quail

Dress, clean, lard, and truss a quail. Bake same as Larded Grouse, allowing fifteen to twenty minutes for cooking.

### Larded Grouse

Clean, remove pinions, and if it be tough the skin covering breast. Lard breast and insert two lardoons in each leg. Truss, and place on trivet in small shallow pan; rub with salt, brush over with melted butter, dredge with flour, and surround with trimmings of fat salt pork. Bake twenty to twenty-five minutes in a hot oven, basting three times. Arrange on platter, remove string and skewers, pour around Bread Sauce, and sprinkle bird and sauce with coarse brown bread crumbs. Garnish with parsley.

### Breast of Grouse Sauté Chasseur

Remove breasts from pair of grouse, and sauté in butter. When partially cooked, season with salt and pepper. Break carcasses in pieces, cover with cold water, add carrot, celery, onion, parsley, and bay leaf, and cook until stock is reduced to three-fourths cup. Arrange grouse on a serving dish, and pour around a sauce made of three tablespoons butter, four and one-half tablespoons flour, stock made from grouse, and three-fourths cup stewed and strained tomatoes. Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice, and add one teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and one-half cup canned mushrooms cut in slices.

### Broiled or Roasted Plover

Plover is broiled or roasted same as quail.

### Potted Pigeons

Clean, stuff, and truss six pigeons, place upright in a stewpan, and add one quart boiling water in which celery has 259been cooked. Cover, and cook slowly three hours or until tender; or cook in oven in a covered earthen dish. Remove from water, cool slightly, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and brown entire surface in pork fat. Make a sauce with one-fourth cup, each, butter and flour cooked together and stock remaining in pan; there should be two cups. Place each bird on a slice of dry toast, and pour gravy over all. Garnish with parsley.

### Stuffing

1 cup hot riced potatoes
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon marjoram or summer savory
Few drops onion juice
1 tablespoon butter
¼ cup soft stale bread crumbs soaked in some of the celery water and wrung in cheese-cloth
Yolk 1 egg

Mix ingredients in order given.

### Broiled Venison Steak

Follow recipe for Broiled Beefsteak. Serve with Maître d’Hôtel Butter. Venison should always be cooked rare.

### Venison Steaks, Sautéd, Cumberland Sauce

Cut venison steaks in circular pieces and use trimmings for the making of stock. Sauté steaks in hot buttered frying-pan and serve with

Cumberland Sauce. Soak two tablespoons citron, cut in julienne-shaped pieces, two tablespoons glacéd cherries, and one tablespoon Sultana raisins, in Port wine for several hours. Drain and cook fruit five minutes in one-third cup Port wine. Add one-half tumbler currant jelly, and, as soon as jelly is dissolved, add one and one-third cups Brown Sauce, and two tablespoons shredded almonds.

### Venison Steak, Chestnut Sauce

Wipe steak, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on a greased broiler, and broil five minutes. Remove to hot platter and pour over

260 Chestnut Sauce. Fry one-half onion and six slices carrot, cut in small pieces, in two tablespoons butter, five minutes, add three tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add one and one-half cups Brown Stock, a sprig of parsley, a bit of bay leaf, eight peppercorns, and one teaspoon salt. Let simmer twenty minutes, strain, then add three tablespoons Madeira wine, one cup boiled French chestnuts, and one tablespoon butter.

### Venison Cutlets

Clean and trim slices of venison cut from loin. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter or olive oil, and roll in soft stale bread crumbs. Place in a broiler and broil five minutes, or sauté in butter. Serve with Port Wine Sauce.

### Roast Leg of Venison

Prepare and cook as Roast Lamb, allowing less time that it may be cooked rare.

### Saddle of Venison

Clean and lard a saddle of venison. Cook same as Saddle of Mutton. Serve with Currant Jelly Sauce.

### Belgian Hare à la Maryland

Follow directions for Chicken à la Maryland (see p. 249). Bake forty minutes, basting with bacon fat in place of butter.

### Belgian Hare, Sour Cream Sauce

Clean and split a hare. Lard back and hind legs, and season with salt and pepper. Cook eight slices carrot cut in small pieces and one-half small onion in two tablespoons bacon fat five minutes. Add one cup Brown Stock, and pour around hare in pan. Bake forty-five minutes, basting often. Add one cup heavy cream and the juice of one lemon. Cook fifteen minutes longer, and baste every five minutes. Remove to serving dish, strain sauce, thicken, season with salt and pepper, and pour around hare.

261

### WAYS OF WARMING OVER POULTRY AND GAME

#### Creamed Chicken

1½ cups cold cooked chicken, cut in dice 1 cup White Sauce II ⅛ teaspoon celery salt

Heat chicken dice in sauce, to which celery salt has been added.

#### Creamed Chicken with Mushrooms

Add to Creamed Chicken one-fourth cup mushrooms cut in slices.

#### Chicken with Potato Border

Serve Creamed Chicken in Potato Border.

#### Chicken in Baskets

To three cups hot mashed potatoes add three tablespoons butter, one teaspoon salt, yolks of three eggs slightly beaten, and enough milk to moisten. Shape in form of small baskets, using a pastry bag and tube. Brush over with white of egg slightly beaten, and brown in oven. Fill with Creamed Chicken. Form handles for baskets of parsley.

#### Chicken and Oysters à la Métropole

¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
2 cups cream
2 cups cold cooked chicken, cut in dice
1 pint oysters, cleaned and rained
⅓ cup finely chopped celery

Make a sauce of first five ingredients, add chicken dice and oysters; cook until oysters are plump. Serve sprinkled with celery.

#### Luncheon Chicken

1½ cups cold cooked chicken, cut in small dice
2 tablespoons butter
1 slice carrot, cut in small cubes
1 slice onion
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup Chicken Stock
Salt
Pepper
⅔ cup buttered cracker crumbs
4 eggs

Cook butter five minutes with vegetables, add flour, and gradually the stock. Strain, add chicken dice, and season 262with salt and pepper. Turn on a slightly buttered platter and sprinkle with cracker crumbs. Make four nests, and in each nest slip an egg; cover eggs with crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven until whites of eggs are firm.

#### Blanquette of Chicken

2 cups cold cooked chicken, cut in strips
1 cup White Sauce II
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons milk

Add chicken to sauce; when well heated, add yolks of eggs slightly beaten, diluted with milk. Cook two minutes, then add parsley.

#### Scalloped Chicken

Butter a baking-dish. Arrange alternate layers of cold, cooked sliced chicken and boiled macaroni or rice. Pour over White, Brown, or Tomato Sauce, cover with buttered cracker crumbs, and bake in a hot oven until crumbs are brown.

#### Mock Terrapin

1½ cups cold cooked chicken or veal, cut in dice
1 cup White Sauce I
Yolks 2 “hard-boiled” eggs, finely chopped
Whites 2 “hard-boiled” eggs, chopped
3 tablespoons Sherry wine
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Add to sauce, chicken, yolks and whites of eggs, salt, and cayenne; cook two minutes, and add wine.

#### Chicken Soufflé

2 cups scalded milk
⅛ cup butter
⅛ cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
½ cup stale soft bread crumbs
2 cups cold cooked chicken, finely chopped
Yolks 3 eggs, well beaten
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Whites 3 eggs, beaten stiff

Make a sauce of first five ingredients, add bread crumbs, and cook two minutes; remove from fire, add chicken, yolks of eggs, and parsley, then fold in whites of eggs. Turn in a buttered pudding-dish, and bake thirty-five minutes in a 263slow oven. Serve with White Mushroom Sauce. Veal may be used in place of chicken.

#### Chicken Hollandaise

1½ tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon finely chopped onion
2 tablespoons corn-starch
1 cup chicken stock
1 teaspoon lemon juice
⅓ cup finely chopped celery
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains paprika
1 cup cold cooked chicken, cut in small cubes
Yolk 1 egg

Cook butter and onion five minutes, add corn-starch and stock gradually. Add lemon juice, celery, salt, paprika, and chicken; when well heated, add yolk of egg slightly beaten, and cook one minute. Serve with buttered Graham toast.

#### Chicken Chartreuse

Prepare and cook same as Casserole of Rice and Meat, using chicken in place of lamb or veal. Season chicken with salt, pepper, celery salt, onion juice, and one-half teaspoon finely chopped parsley.

#### Scalloped Turkey

Make one cup of sauce, using two tablespoons butter, two tablespoons flour, one-fourth teaspoon salt, few grains of pepper, and one cup stock (obtained by cooking in water bones and skin of a roast turkey). Cut remnants of cold roast turkey in small pieces; there should be one and one-half cups. Sprinkle bottom of buttered baking-dish with seasoned cracker crumbs, add turkey meat, pour over sauce, and sprinkle with buttered cracker crumbs. Bake in a hot oven until crumbs are brown. Turkey, chicken, or veal may be used separately or in combination.

#### Minced Turkey

To one cup cold roast turkey, cut in small dice, add one-third cup soft stale bread crumbs. Make one cup sauce, using two tablespoons butter, two tablespoons flour, and one cup stock (obtained by cooking bones and skin of a roast 264turkey). Season with salt, pepper, and onion juice. Heat turkey and bread crumbs in sauce. Serve on small pieces of toast, and garnish with poached eggs and toast points.

#### Salmi of Duck

Cut cold roast duck in pieces for serving. Reheat in Spanish Sauce.

Spanish Sauce. Melt one-fourth cup butter, add one tablespoon finely chopped onion, a stalk of celery, two slices carrot cut in pieces, and two tablespoons finely chopped lean raw ham. Cook until butter is brown, then add one-fourth cup flour, and when well browned add two cups Consommé, bit of bay leaf, sprig of parsley, blade of mace, two cloves, one-half teaspoon salt, and one-eighth teaspoon pepper; cook five minutes. Strain, add duck, and when reheated add Sherry wine, stoned olives, and mushrooms cut in quarters. Arrange on dish for serving, and garnish with olives and mushrooms. Grouse may be used in place of duck.

265

## CHAPTER XVIII
FISH AND MEAT SAUCES

The French chef keeps always on hand four sauces,—White, Brown, Béchamel, and Tomato,—and with these as a basis is able to make kinds innumerable. Butter and flour are usually cooked together for thickening sauces. When not browned, it is called roux; when browned, brown roux. The French mix butter and flour together, put in saucepan, place over fire, stir for five minutes; set aside to cool, again place over fire, and add liquid, stirring constantly until thick and smooth. Butter and flour for brown sauces are cooked together much longer, and watched carefully lest butter should burn. The American cook makes sauce by stirring butter in saucepan until melted and bubbling, adds flour and continues stirring, then adds liquid, gradually stirring or beating until the boiling-point is reached. For Brown Sauce, butter should be stirred until well browned; flour should be added and stirred with butter until both are browned before the addition of liquid. The secret in making a Brown Sauce is to have butter and flour well browned before adding liquid.

It is well worth remembering that a sauce of average thickness is made by allowing two tablespoons each of butter and flour to one cup liquid, whether it be milk, stock, or tomato. For Brown Sauce a slightly larger quantity of flour is necessary, as by browning flour its thickening property is lessened, its starch being changed to dextrine. When sauces are set away, put a few bits of butter on top to prevent crust from forming.

266

### Thin White Sauce

2 tablespoons butter
1½ tablespoons flour
1 cup scalded milk
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Put butter in saucepan, stir until melted and bubbling; add flour mixed with seasonings, and stir until thoroughly blended. Pour on gradually the milk, adding about one-third at a time, stirring until well mixed, then beating until smooth and glossy. If a wire whisk is used, all the milk may be added at once.

### Cream Sauce

Make same as Thin White Sauce, using cream instead of milk.

### White Sauce I

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce.

### White Sauce II

2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce.

### Thick White Sauce (for Cutlets and Croquets)

2½ tablespoons butter
¼ cup corn-starch or
⅓ cup flour
1 cup milk
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce.

### Velouté Sauce

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup White Stock
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce.

### Sauce Allemande

To Velouté Sauce add one teaspoon lemon juice and yolk one egg.

267

### Soubise Sauce

2 cups sliced onions
1 cup Velouté Sauce
½ cup cream or milk
Salt and pepper

Cover onions with boiling water, cook five minutes, drain, again cover with boiling water, and cook until soft; drain, and rub through a sieve. Add to sauce with cream. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with mutton, pork chops, or “hard-boiled” eggs.

### Drawn Butter Sauce

⅓ cup butter
3 tablespoons flour
1½ cups hot water
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Melt one-half the butter, add flour with seasonings, and pour on gradually hot water. Boil five minutes, and add remaining butter in small pieces. To be served with boiled or baked fish.

### Shrimp Sauce

To Drawn Butter Sauce add one egg yolk and one-half can shrimps cleaned and cut in pieces.

### Caper Sauce

To Drawn Butter Sauce add one-half cup capers drained from their liquor. Serve with boiled mutton.

### Egg Sauce I

To Drawn Butter Sauce add two “hard-boiled” eggs cut in one-fourth inch slices.

### Egg Sauce II

To Drawn Butter Sauce add beaten yolks of two eggs and one teaspoon lemon juice.

### Brown Sauce I

2 tablespoons butter
½ slice onion
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup Brown Stock
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Cook onion in butter until slightly browned; remove onion and stir butter constantly until well browned; add flour mixed with seasonings, and brown the butter and flour; then add stock gradually.

268

### Brown Sauce II (Espagnole)

¼ cup butter
1 slice carrot
1 slice onion
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of thyme
Sprig of parsley
6 peppercorns
5 tablespoons flour
2 cups Brown Stock
Salt and pepper

Cook butter with carrot, onion, bay leaf, thyme, parsley, and peppercorns, until brown, stirring constantly, care being taken that butter is not allowed to burn; add flour, and when well browned, add stock gradually. Bring to boiling-point, strain, and season with salt and pepper.

### Brown Mushroom Sauce I

To one cup Brown Sauce add one-fourth can mushrooms, drained, rinsed, and cut in quarters or slices.

### Brown Mushroom Sauce II

1 can mushrooms
¼ cup butter
½ tablespoon lemon juice
¼ cup flour
2 cups Consommé or Brown Stock
Salt and pepper

Drain and rinse mushrooms and chop finely one-half of same. Cook five minutes with butter and lemon juice; drain; brown the butter, add flour, and when well browned, add gradually Consommé. Cook fifteen minutes, skim, add remaining mushrooms cut in quarters or slices, and cook two minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Use fresh mushrooms in place of canned ones when possible.

### Sauce Piquante

To one cup Brown Sauce add one tablespoon vinegar, one-half small shallot finely chopped, one tablespoon each chopped capers and pickle, and a few grains of cayenne.

### Olive Sauce

Remove stones from ten olives, leaving meat in one piece. Cover with boiling water and cook five minutes. Drain olives, and add to two cups Brown Sauce I or II.

269

### Orange Sauce

¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1⅓ cups Brown Stock
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Juice 2 oranges
2 tablespoons Sherry wine
Rind of 1 orange, cut in fancy shapes

Brown the butter, add flour, with salt and cayenne, and stir until well browned. Add stock gradually, and just before serving, orange juice, Sherry, and pieces of rind.

### Sauce à l’Italienne

Onion | 2 tablespoons each, finely chopped
Carrot
Lean raw ham
12 peppercorns
2 cloves
Sprig marjoram
2 tablespoons butter
2½ tablespoons flour
1 cup Brown Stock
1¼ cups white wine
½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Cook first six ingredients with butter five minutes, add flour, and stir until well browned; then add gradually stock and wine. Strain, reheat, and after pouring around fish sprinkle with parsley.

### Champagne Sauce

Simmer two cups Espagnole Sauce until reduced to one and one-half cups. Add two tablespoons mushroom liquor, one-half cup champagne, and one tablespoon powdered sugar.

### Tomato Sauce I (without Stock)

½ can tomatoes or
1¾ cups fresh stewed tomatoes
1 slice onion
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Cook onion with tomatoes fifteen minutes, rub through a strainer, and add to butter and flour (to which seasonings have been added) cooked together. If tomatoes are very acid, add a few grains of soda. If tomatoes are to retain their red color it is necessary to brown butter and flour together before adding the tomatoes.

270

### Tomato Sauce II

½ can tomatoes
1 teaspoon sugar
8 peppercorns
Bit of bay leaf
½ teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
1 cup Brown Stock

Cook tomatoes twenty minutes with sugar, peppercorns, bay leaf, and salt; rub through a strainer, and add stock. Brown the butter, add flour, and when well browned, gradually add hot liquid.

### Tomato Sauce III

¼ cup butter
1 slice carrot
1 slice onion
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of thyme
Sprig of parsley
1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
1 cup Brown Stock
Salt and pepper
¼ cup flour

Brown the butter with carrot, onion, bay leaf, thyme, and parsley; remove seasonings, add flour, stir until well browned, then add tomatoes and stock. Bring to boiling-point, and strain.

### Tomato and Mushroom Sauce

2 slices chopped bacon or small quantity uncooked ham
1 slice onion
6 slices carrot
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs thyme
Sprig of parsley
2 cloves
½ teaspoon peppercorns
Few gratings nutmeg
3 tablespoons flour
½ can tomatoes
1½ cups Brown Stock
Salt and pepper
½ can mushrooms

Cook bacon, onion, and carrot five minutes; add bay leaf, thyme, parsley, cloves, peppercorns, nutmeg, and tomatoes, and cook five minutes. Add flour diluted with enough cold water to pour; as it thickens, dilute with stock. Cover, and cook in oven one hour. Strain, add salt and pepper to taste, and one-half can mushrooms, drained from their liquor, rinsed, and cut in quarters; then cook two minutes. Use fresh mushrooms in place of canned ones when possible.

271

### Tomato Cream Sauce

½ can tomatoes
Sprig of thyme
1 stalk celery
1 slice onion
Bit of bay leaf
1 cup White Sauce I
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
¼ teaspoon soda

Cook tomatoes twenty minutes with seasonings; rub through a strainer, add soda, then White Sauce. Serve with Baked Fish or Lobster Cutlets.

### Spanish Sauce

2 tablespoons finely chopped lean raw ham
2 tablespoons chopped celery
2 tablespoons chopped carrot
1 tablespoon chopped onion
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1⅓ cups Brown Stock
⅔ cup stewed and strained tomatoes
Salt and pepper

Cook ham and vegetables with butter until butter is well browned; add flour, stock, and tomatoes; cook five minutes, then strain. Season with salt and pepper.

### Béchamel Sauce

1½ cups White Stock
1 slice onion
1 slice carrot
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
6 peppercorns
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 cup scalded milk
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Cook stock twenty minutes with onion, carrot, bay leaf, parsley, and peppercorns, then strain; there should be one cupful. Melt the butter, add flour, and gradually hot stock and milk. Season with salt and pepper.

### Yellow Béchamel Sauce

To two cups Béchamel Sauce add yolks of three eggs slightly beaten, first diluting eggs with small quantity of hot sauce, then adding gradually to remaining sauce. This prevents the sauce from having a curdled appearance.

272

### Olive and Almond Sauce

3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup White Stock
½ cup cream
¼ cup shredded almonds
1 teaspoon beef extract
8 olives (stoned and cut in quarters)
½ tablespoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually White Stock. Just before serving add remaining ingredients. Serve with boiled or steamed fish.

### Oyster Sauce

1 pint oysters
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 cup milk or Chicken Stock
Salt
Pepper
Oyster liquor

Wash oysters, reserve liquor, heat, strain, add oysters, and cook until plump. Remove oysters, and make a sauce of butter, flour, oyster liquor, and milk. Add oysters, and season with salt and pepper.

### Cucumber Sauce I

Grate two cucumbers, drain, and season with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Serve with Broiled Fish.

### Cucumber Sauce II

Beat one-half cup heavy cream until stiff, and add one-fourth teaspoon salt, few grains pepper, and gradually two tablespoons vinegar; then add one cucumber, pared, chopped, and drained.

### Celery Sauce

3 cups celery, cut in thin slices
2 cups Thin White Sauce

Wash and scrape celery before cutting into pieces. Cook in boiling salted water until soft, drain, rub through a sieve, and add to sauce. Celery sauce is often made from the stock in which fowl or turkey has been boiled, or with one-half stock and one-half milk.

273

### Suprême Sauce

¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1½ cups hot Chicken Stock
½ cup hot cream
1 tablespoon mushroom liquor
¾ teaspoon lemon juice
Salt and pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce, and add seasonings.

### Maître d’Hôtel Butter

¼ cup butter
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley
¾ tablespoon lemon juice

Put butter in a bowl, and with small wooden spoon work until creamy. Add salt, pepper, and parsley, then lemon juice very slowly.

### Tartar Sauce

1 tablespoon vinegar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
⅓ cup butter
The Boston Cook Book

Mix vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and Worcestershire Sauce in a small bowl, and heat over hot water. Brown the butter in an omelet pan, and strain into first mixture.

### Lemon Butter

¼ cup butter
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Cream the butter, and add slowly lemon juice.

### Anchovy Butter

¼ cup butter
Anchovy essence

Cream the butter and add Anchovy essence to taste.

### Lobster Butter

¼ cup butter
Lobster coral

Clean, wipe, and force coral through a fine sieve. Put in a mortar with butter, and pound until well blended. This butter is used in Lobster Soup and Sauces to give color and richness.

274

### Hollandaise Sauce I

½ cup butter
Yolks 2 eggs
1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
⅓ cup boiling water

Put butter in a bowl, cover with cold water, and wash, using a spoon. Divide in three pieces; put one piece in a saucepan with yolks of eggs and lemon juice, place saucepan in a larger one containing boiling water, and stir constantly with a wire whisk until butter is melted; then add second piece of butter, and, as it thickens, third piece. Add water, cook one minute, and season with salt and cayenne.

### Hollandaise Sauce II

½ cup butter
½ tablespoon vinegar or
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Yolks 2 eggs
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne.
French Chef

Wash butter, divide in three pieces; put one piece in a saucepan with vinegar or lemon juice and egg yolks; place saucepan in a larger one containing boiling water, and stir constantly with a wire whisk. Add second piece of butter, and, as it thickens, third piece. Remove from fire, and add salt and cayenne. If left over fire a moment too long it will separate. If a richer sauce is desired, add one-half teaspoon hot water and one-half tablespoon heavy cream.

### Anchovy Sauce

Season Brown, Drawn Butter, or Hollandaise Sauce with Anchovy essence.

### Horseradish Hollandaise Sauce

To Hollandaise Sauce II add one-fourth cup grated horseradish root.

### Lobster Sauce I

To Hollandaise Sauce I add one-third cup lobster meat cut in small dice.

275

### Lobster Sauce II

1¼ lb. lobster
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
½ tablespoon lemon juice
3 cups cold water

Remove meat from lobster, and cut tender claw meat in one-half inch dice. Chop remaining meat, add to body bones, and cover with water; cook until stock is reduced to two cups, strain, and add gradually to butter and flour cooked together, then add salt, cayenne, lemon juice, and lobster dice.

If the lobster contains coral, prepare Lobster Butter, add flour, and thicken sauce therewith.

### Sauce Béarnaise

To Hollandaise Sauce II add one teaspoon each of finely chopped parsley and fresh tarragon.

Served with mutton chops, steaks, broiled squabs, smelts, or boiled salmon.

### Sauce Trianon

To Hollandaise Sauce II add gradually, while cooking, one and one-half tablespoons Sherry wine.

### Sauce Figaro

To Hollandaise Sauce II add two tablespoons tomato purée (tomatoes stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to a thick pulp), one teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and a few grains cayenne.

### Horseradish Sauce I

3 tablespoons grated horseradish root
1 tablespoon vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
4 tablespoons heavy cream

Mix first four ingredients, and add cream beaten stiff.

### Horseradish Sauce II

3 tablespoons cracker crumbs
⅓ cup grated horseradish root
1½ cups milk
3 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Cook first three ingredients twenty minutes in double boiler. Add butter, salt, and pepper.

276

### Bread Sauce

2 cups milk
½ cup fine stale bread crumbs
1 onion
6 cloves
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
3 tablespoons butter
½ cup coarse stale bread crumbs

Cook milk thirty minutes in double boiler, with fine bread crumbs and onion stuck with cloves. Remove onion, add salt, cayenne, and two tablespoons butter. Usually served poured around roast partridge or grouse, and sprinkled with coarse crumbs browned in remaining butter.

### Rice Sauce

3 tablespoons rice
2 cups milk
½ onion
3 cloves
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper

Wash rice, add to milk, and cook in double boiler until soft. Rub through a fine strainer, return to double boiler, add onion stuck with cloves, and cook fifteen minutes. Remove onion, add butter, salt, and pepper.

### Cauliflower Sauce

¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 cup White Stock III
1 cup scalded milk
Cooked flowerets from a small cauliflower
Salt
Pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce and add flowerets.

### Mint Sauce

¼ cup finely chopped mint leaves
½ cup vinegar
1 tablespoon powdered sugar

Add sugar to vinegar; when dissolved, pour over mint and let stand thirty minutes on back of range to infuse. If vinegar is very strong, dilute with water.

### Currant Jelly Sauce

To one cup Brown Sauce, from which onion has been omitted, add one-fourth tumbler currant jelly and one tablespoon Sherry wine; or, add currant jelly to one cup gravy made to serve with roast lamb. Currant Jelly Sauce is suitable to serve with lamb.

277

### Port Wine Sauce

To one cup Brown Sauce, from which onion has been omitted, add one-eighth tumbler currant jelly, two tablespoons Port wine, and a few grains cayenne.

### Vinaigrette Sauce

1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon paprika
Few grains pepper
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped pickles
1 tablespoon chopped green pepper
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon chopped chives

Mix ingredients in order given.

### Sauce Tartare

½ teaspoon mustard
1 teaspoon powdered sugar
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Yolks 2 eggs
½ cup olive oil
1½ tablespoons vinegar
Capers | ½ tablespoon each, finely chopped
Pickles
Olives
Parsley
½ shallot, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon powdered tarragon

Mix mustard, sugar, salt, and cayenne; add yolks of eggs, and stir until thoroughly mixed, setting bowl in pan of ice-water. Add oil, at first drop by drop, stirring with a wooden spoon or wire whisk. As mixture thickens, dilute with vinegar, when oil may be added more rapidly. Keep in cool place until ready to serve, then add remaining ingredients.

### Hot Sauce Tartare

½ cup White Sauce I
⅓ cup Mayonnaise
½ shallot, finely chopped
½ teaspoon vinegar
Capers | ½ tablespoon each, finely chopped
Pickles
Olives
Parsley

To white sauce add remaining ingredients. Stir constantly until mixture is thoroughly heated, but do not let it come to the boiling-point. Served with boiled, steamed, or fried fish.

278

### Hot Mayonnaise

Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
¼ cup hot water
Salt
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley

Add oil slowly to egg yolks, then pour on gradually vinegar and water. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens, then add seasonings and parsley.

### Sauce Tyrolienne

To three-fourths cup Mayonnaise add one-half tablespoon each finely chopped capers and parsley, one finely chopped gherkin, and one-half can tomatoes, stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to two tablespoons. Serve with any kind of fried fish.

### Creole Sauce

2 tablespoons chopped onion
4 tablespoons green pepper, finely chopped
2 tablespoons butter
2 tomatoes
¼ cup sliced mushrooms
6 olives, stoned
1⅓ cups Brown Sauce
Salt and pepper
Sherry wine

Cook onion and pepper with butter five minutes; add tomatoes, mushrooms, and olives, and cook two minutes, then add Brown Sauce. Bring to boiling-point, and add wine to taste. Serve with broiled beefsteak or fillet of beef. Boiled rice should accompany the beef, and be served on same platter.

### Russian Sauce

3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup White Stock III
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
½ teaspoon finely chopped chives
½ teaspoon made mustard
1 teaspoon grated horseradish
¼ cup cream
1 teaspoon lemon juice

Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually White Stock; then add salt, pepper, mustard, chives, and horseradish. Cook two minutes, strain, add cream and lemon 279juice. Reheat before serving. Serve with Beef Tenderloins or Hamburg Steaks.

### Sauce Finiste

3 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon mustard
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1½ teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce
¾ cup stewed and strained tomatoes

Cook butter until well browned, and add remaining ingredients.

280

## CHAPTER XIX
VEGETABLES

Table showing Composition of Vegetables
Articles | Proteid | Fat | Carbohydrates | Mineral matter | Water
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Artichokes | 2.6 | .2 | 16.7 | 1. | 79.5
Asparagus | 1.8 | .2 | 3.3 | 1. | 94.
Beans, Lima, green | 7.1 | .7 | 22. | 1.7 | 68.5
Beans, green string | 2.2 | .4 | 9.4 | .7 | 87.3
Beets | 1.6 | .1 | 9.6 | 1.1 | 87.6
Brussels sprouts | 4.7 | 1.1 | 4.3 | 1.7 | 88.2
Cabbage | 2.1 | .4 | 5.8 | 1.4 | 90.3
Carrots | 1.1 | .4 | 9.2 | 1.1 | 88.2
Cauliflower | 1.6 | .8 | 6. | .8 | 90.8
Celery | 1.4 | .1 | 3. | 1.1 | 94.4
Corn, green, sweet | 2.8 | 1.1 | 14.1 | .7 | 81.3
Cucumbers | .8 | .2 | 2.5 | .5 | 96.
Eggplant | 1.2 | .3 | 5.1 | .5 | 92.9
Kohl-rabi | 2. | .1 | 5.5 | 1.3 | 91.1
Lettuce | 1.3 | .4 | 3.3 | 1. | 94.
Okra | 2. | .4 | 9.5 | .7 | 87.4
Onions | 4.4 | .8 | .5 | 1.2 | 93.5
Parsnips | 1.7 | .6 | 16.1 | 1.7 | 79.9
Peas, green | 4.4 | .5 | 16.1 | .9 | 78.1
Potatoes, sweet | 1.8 | .7 | 27.1 | 1.1 | 69.3
Potatoes, white | 2.1 | .1 | 18. | .9 | 78.9
Spinach | 2.1 | .5 | 3.1 | 1.9 | 92.4
Squash | 1.6 | .6 | 10.4 | .9 | 86.5
Tomatoes | .8 | .4 | 3.9 | .5 | 94.4
Turnips | 1.4 | .2 | 8.7 | .8 | 88.9
W. O. Atwater, Ph.D.

Vegetables include, commonly though not botanically speaking, all plants used for food except grains and fruits. With exception of beans, peas, and lentils, which contain a 281large amount of proteid, they are chiefly valuable for their potash salts, and should form a part of each day’s dietary. Many contain much cellulose, which gives needed bulk to the food. The legumes, peas, beans, and lentils may be used in place of flesh food.

For the various vegetables different parts of the plant are used. Some are eaten in the natural state, others are cooked.

Tubers
  White potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes
Roots
  Beets, carrots, parsnips, radishes, sweet potatoes, salsify or oyster plant, and turnips
Bulbs
  Garlic, onions, and shallots
Stems
  Asparagus, celery, and chives
Leaves
  Brussels sprouts, beet greens, cabbages, dandelions, lettuce, sorrel, spinach, and watercress
Flowers
  Cauliflower
Fruit
  Beans, corn, cucumbers, okra, eggplant, peas, lentils, squash, and tomatoes.

Young, tender vegetables,—as lettuce, radishes, cucumbers, watercress, and tomatoes,—eaten uncooked, served separately or combined in salads, help to stimulate a flagging appetite, and when dressed with oil furnish considerable nutriment.

Beans, and peas when old, should be employed in making purées and soups; by so doing, the outer covering of cellulose, so irritating to the stomach, is removed.

### Care of Vegetables

Summer vegetables should be cooked as soon after gathering as possible; in case they must be kept, spread on bottom of cool, dry, well-ventilated cellar, or place in ice-box. Lettuce may be best kept by sprinkling with cold water and placing in a tin pail closely covered. Wilted vegetables may be freshened by allowing to stand in cold water. Vegetables which contain sugar lose some of their sweetness by standing; corn and peas are more quickly affected than others. Winter vegetables should be kept in a cold, dry place. Beets, carrots, turnips, potatoes, etc., 282should be put in barrels or piled in bins, to exclude as much air as possible. Squash should be spread, and needs careful watching; when dark spots appear, cook at once.

In using canned goods, empty contents from can as soon as opened, lest the acid therein act on the tin to produce poisonous compounds, and let stand one hour, that it may become reoxygenated. Beans, peas, asparagus, etc., should be emptied into a strainer, drained, and cold water poured over them and allowed to run through. In using dried vegetables, soak in cold water several hours before cooking. A few years ago native vegetables were alone sold; but now our markets are largely supplied from the Southern States and California, thus allowing us fresh vegetables throughout the year.

### Cooking of Vegetables

A small scrubbing-brush, which may be bought for five cents, and two small pointed knives for preparing vegetables should be found in every kitchen.

Vegetables should be washed in cold water, and cooked until soft in boiling salted water; if cooked in an uncovered vessel, their color is better kept. For peas and beans add salt to water last half hour of cooking. Time for cooking the same vegetable varies according to freshness and age, therefore time tables for cooking serve only as guides.

### Mushrooms and Truffles

These are classed among vegetables. Mushrooms, which grow about us abundantly, may be easily gathered, and as they contain considerable nutriment, should often be found on the table. While there are hundreds of varieties, one by a little study may acquaint herself with a dozen or more of the most common ones which are valuable as food. Consult W. Hamilton Gibson, “Our Edible Toadstools and Mushrooms.” Many might cause illness, but only a few varieties of the Amanita family are deadly poison. Mushrooms require heat and moisture,—a severe drought or very wet soil being unfavorable for their growth. Never gather mushrooms in the vicinity of decaying matter. They appear 283the middle of May, and last until frost comes. Campestris is the variety always found in market; French canned are of this family. Boleti are dried, canned, and sold as cepes.

### Truffles

Truffles belong to the same family as mushrooms, and are grown underground. France is the most famous field for their production, from which country they are exported in tin cans, and are too expensive for ordinary use.

### Artichokes

French artichokes, imported throughout the year, are the ones principally used. They retail from thirty to forty cents each, and are cheapest and best in November, December, and January. Artichokes are appearing in market from California and are somewhat cheaper in price than the French Artichoke. Jerusalem artichokes are employed for pickling, and can be bought for fifteen cents per quart.

### Boiled Artichokes

Cut off stem close to leaves, remove outside bottom leaves, trim artichoke, cut off one inch from top of leaves, and with a sharp knife remove choke; then tie artichoke with a string to keep its shape. Soak one-half hour in cold water. Drain, and cook thirty to forty-five minutes in boiling, salted, acidulated water. Remove from water, place upside down to drain, then take off string. Serve with Béchamel or Hollandaise Sauce. Boiled Artichokes often constitute a course at dinner. Leaves are drawn out separately with fingers, dipped in sauce, and fleshy ends only eaten, although the bottom is edible. Artichokes may be cut in quarters, cooked, drained, and served with Sauce Bearnaise. When prepared in this way they are served with mutton.

### Fried Artichokes

Sprinkle Boiled Artichokes cut in quarters with salt, pepper, and finely chopped parsley. Dip in Batter I, fry in deep fat, and drain. In preparing artichokes, trim off tops of leaves closer than when served as Boiled Artichokes.

284

### Artichoke Bottoms

Remove all leaves and the choke. Trim bottoms in shape, and cook until soft in boiling, salted, acidulated water. Serve with Hollandaise or Béchamel Sauce.

### Stuffed Artichokes

Prepare and cook as Boiled Artichokes, having them slightly underdone. Fill with Chicken Force-meat I or II, and bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven, basting twice with Thin White Sauce. Remove to serving dish and pour around Thin White Sauce.

### Asparagus

Hothouse asparagus is found in market during winter, but is not very satisfactory, and is sold for about one dollar per bunch. Oyster Bay (white asparagus) appears first of May, and commands a very high price. Large and small green stalk asparagus is in season from first of June to middle of July, and cheapest the middle of June.

### Boiled Asparagus

Cut off lower parts of stalks as far down as they will snap, untie bunches, wash, remove scales, and retie. Cook in boiling salted water fifteen minutes or until soft, leaving tips out of water first ten minutes. Drain, remove string, and spread with soft butter, allowing one and one-half tablespoons butter to each bunch asparagus. Asparagus is often broken or cut in inch pieces for boiling, cooking tips a shorter time than stalks.

### Asparagus on Toast

Serve Boiled Asparagus on Buttered or Milk Toast.

### Asparagus in White Sauce

Boil asparagus cut in one-inch pieces, drain, and add to White Sauce I, allowing one cup sauce to each bunch asparagus. Serve in Croustades of Bread for a vegetable course.

285

### Asparagus à la Hollandaise

Pour Hollandaise Sauce I over Boiled Asparagus.

### Asparagus in Crusts

Remove centres from small rolls, fry shells in deep fat, drain, and fill with Asparagus in White Sauce.

### Beans

String Beans that are obtainable in winter come from California; natives appear in market the last of June and continue until the last of September. There are two varieties, green (pole cranberry being best flavored) and yellow (butter bean).

Shell Beans, including horticultural and sieva, are sold in the pod or shelled, five quarts in pod making one quart shelled. They are found in market during July and August. Common lima and improved lima shell beans are in season in August and September. Dried lima beans are procurable throughout the year.

### String Beans

Remove strings, and snap or cut in one-inch pieces; wash, and cook in boiling water from one to three hours, adding salt last half-hour of cooking. Drain, season with butter and salt.

### Shell Beans

Wash, and cook in boiling water from one to one and a half hours, adding salt last half-hour of cooking. Cook in sufficiently small quantity of water, that there may be none left to drain off when beans are cooked. Season with butter and salt.

### Cream of Lima Beans

Soak one cup dried beans over night, drain, and cook in boiling salted water until soft; drain, add three-fourths cup cream, and season with butter and salt. Reheat before serving.

286

### Boiled Beets

Wash, and cook whole in boiling water until soft; time required being from one to four hours. Old beets will never be tender, no matter how long they may be cooked. Drain, and put in cold water that skins may be easily removed. Serve cut in quarters or slices.

### Sugared Beets

4 hot boiled beets
3 tablespoons butter
1½ tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon salt

Cut beets in one-fourth inch slices, add butter, sugar, and salt; reheat for serving.

### Pickled Beets

Slice cold boiled beets and cover with vinegar.

### Beets, Sour Sauce

Wash beets, and cook in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, and reserve one-half cup water in which beets were cooked. Plunge into cold water, rub off skins and cut into cubes. Reheat in

Sour Sauce. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons flour, and pour on the beet water. Add one-fourth cup, each, vinegar and cream, one teaspoon sugar, one-half teaspoon salt, and a few grains pepper.

### Harvard Beets

Wash twelve small beets, cook in boiling water until soft, remove skins, and cut beets in thin slices, small cubes, or fancy shapes, using French vegetable cutter. Mix one-half cup sugar and one-half tablespoon corn-starch. Add one-half cup vinegar and let boil five minutes. Pour over beets, and let stand on back of range one-half hour. Just before serving add two tablespoons butter.

### Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts belong to the same family as cabbage, and the small heads grow from one to two inches apart, 287on the axis of the entire stem, one root yielding about two quarts. They are imported, and also grow in this country, being cheapest and best in December and January.

### Brussels Sprouts in White Sauce

Pick over, remove wilted leaves, and soak in cold water fifteen minutes. Cook in boiling salted water twenty minutes, or until easily pierced with a skewer. Drain, and to each pint add one cup White Sauce I.

### Scalloped Brussels Sprouts

Pick over, remove wilted leaves, and soak in cold water one quart sprouts. Cook in boiling salted water until soft, then drain. Wash celery and cut in pieces; there should be one and one-half cups. Melt three tablespoons butter, add celery, cook two minutes, add three tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half cups scalded milk; add sprouts and turn mixture into a baking-dish. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake in a hot oven until crumbs are brown.

### Cabbage

There are four kinds of cabbage in the market,—drum-head, sugar-loaf, Savoy, and purple; and some variety may be found throughout the year. The Savoy is best for boiling; drum-head and purple for Cole-Slaw. In buying, select heavy cabbages.

### Boiled Cabbage

Take off outside leaves, cut in quarters, and remove tough stalk. Soak in cold water and cook in an uncovered vessel in boiling salted water, to which is added one-fourth teaspoon soda; this prevents disagreeable odor during cooking. Cook from thirty minutes to one hour, drain, and serve; or chop, and season with butter, salt, and pepper.

### Escalloped Cabbage

Cut one-half boiled cabbage in pieces; put in buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add one cup White Sauce I. Lift cabbage with fork, that it may be 288well mixed with sauce, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

### German Cabbage

Slice red cabbage and soak in cold water. Put one quart in stewpan with two tablespoons butter, one-half teaspoon salt, one tablespoon finely chopped onion, few gratings of nutmeg, and few grains cayenne; cover, and cook until cabbage is tender. Add two tablespoons vinegar and one-half tablespoon sugar, and cook five minutes.

### Cole-Slaw

Select a small, heavy cabbage, take off outside leaves, and cut in quarters; with a sharp knife slice very thinly. Soak in cold water until crisp, drain, dry between towels, and mix with Cream Salad Dressing.

### Hot Slaw

Slice cabbage as for Cole-Slaw, using one-half cabbage. Heat in a dressing made of yolks of two eggs slightly beaten, one-fourth cup cold water, one tablespoon butter, one-fourth cup hot vinegar, and one-half teaspoon salt, stirred over hot water until thickened.

### Carrots

Carrots may always be found in market. New carrots appear last of April, and are sold in bunches; these may be boiled and served, but carrots are chiefly used for flavoring soups, and for garnishing, on account of their bright color. To prepare carrots for cooking, wash and scrape, as best flavor and brightest color are near the skin.

### Carrots and Peas

Wash, scrape, and cut young carrots in small cubes or fancy shapes; cook until soft in boiling salted water or stock. Drain, add an equal quantity of cooked green peas, and season with butter, salt, and pepper.

### Carrots, Poulette Sauce

Wash, scrape, and cut carrots in strips, cubes, or fancy shapes, cover with boiling water, let stand five minutes; 289drain, and cook in boiling salted water, to which is added one-half tablespoon butter, until soft. Add to recipe for sauce given under Macédoine of Vegetables à la Poulette (see p. 308).

### Cauliflower

Cauliflowers comprise the stalks and flowerets of a plant which belongs to the same family as Brussels sprouts and cabbage; they may be obtained throughout the year, but are cheapest and best in September and October. In selecting cauliflowers, choose those with white heads and fresh green leaves; if dark spots are on the heads, they are not fresh.

### Creamed Cauliflower

Remove leaves, cut off stalk, and soak thirty minutes (head down) in cold water to cover. Cook (head up) twenty minutes or until soft in boiling salted water; drain, separate flowerets, and reheat in one and one-half cups White Sauce I.

### Cauliflower à la Hollandaise

Prepare as for Creamed Cauliflower, using Hollandaise Sauce I instead of White Sauce.

### Cauliflower au Gratin

Place a whole cooked cauliflower on a dish for serving, cover with buttered crumbs, and place on oven grate to brown crumbs; remove from oven and pour one cup Thin White Sauce around cauliflower.

### Cauliflower à la Parmesan

Prepare as Cauliflower au Gratin. Sprinkle with grated cheese before covering with crumbs.

### Cauliflower à la Huntington

Prepare cauliflower as for boiled cauliflower, and steam until soft. Separate in pieces and pour over the following sauce:

Mix one and one-half teaspoons mustard, one and one-fourth teaspoons salt, one teaspoon powdered sugar, and 290one-fourth teaspoon paprika. Add yolks three eggs slightly beaten, one-fourth cup olive oil, and one-half cup vinegar in which one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot has infused five minutes. Cook over hot water until mixture thickens. Remove from range, and add one-half tablespoon curry powder, two tablespoons melted butter, and one teaspoon finely chopped parsley.

### Celery

Celery may be obtained from last of July until April. It is best and cheapest in December. Celery stalks are green while growing; but the white celery seen in market has been bleached, with the exception of Kalamazoo variety, which grows white. To prepare celery for table, cut off roots and leaves, separate stalks, wash, scrape, and chill in ice-water. By adding a slice of lemon to ice-water celery is kept white and made crisp. If tops of stalks are gashed several times before putting in water, they will curl back and make celery look more attractive.

### Celery in White Sauce

Wash, scrape, and cut celery stalks in one-inch pieces; cook twenty minutes or until soft in boiling salted water; drain, and to two cups celery add one cup White Sauce I. This is a most satisfactory way of using the outer stalks of celery.

### Fried Celery, Tomato Sauce

Wash and scrape celery, cut in three-inch pieces, dip in batter, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with Tomato Sauce.

Batter. Mix one-half cup bread flour, one-fourth teaspoon salt, a few grains pepper, one-third cup milk, and one egg well beaten.

### Chiccory or Endive

Chiccory or endive may be obtained throughout the year, but during January, February, March, and April supply is imported. It is used only for salads.

291

### Corn

Corn may be found in market from first of June to first of October. Until native corn appears it is the most unsatisfactory vegetable. Native corn is obtainable the last of July, but is most abundant and cheapest in August. Among the best varieties are Crosby for early corn and Evergreen for late corn.

### Boiled Green Corn

Remove husks and silky threads. Cook ten to twenty minutes in boiling water. Place on platter covered with napkin; draw corners of napkin over corn; or cut from cob and season with butter and salt.

### Succotash

Cut hot boiled corn from cob, add equal quantity of hot boiled shelled beans; season with butter and salt; reheat before serving.

### Corn Oysters

Grate raw corn from cobs. To one cup pulp add one well-beaten egg, one-fourth cup flour, and season highly with salt and pepper. Drop by spoonfuls and fry in deep fat, or cook on a hot, well-greased griddle. They should be made about the size of large oysters.

### Corn Fritters

1 can corn
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon paprika
2 eggs

Chop corn, and add dry ingredients mixed and sifted, then add yolks of eggs beaten until thick, and fold in whites of eggs beaten stiff. Cook in a frying-pan in fresh hot lard. Drain on paper.

### Corn à la Southern

To one can chopped corn add two eggs slightly beaten, one teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, one and one-half tablespoons melted butter, and one pint scalded milk; turn into a buttered pudding-dish and bake in slow oven until firm.

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### Chestnuts

French and Italian chestnuts are served in place of vegetables.

### Chestnut Purée

Remove shells from chestnuts, cook until soft in boiling salted water; drain, mash, moisten with scalded milk, season with salt and pepper, and beat until light. Chestnuts are often boiled, riced, and piled lightly in centre of dish, then surrounded by meat.

### Baked Chestnuts

Remove shells from one pint chestnuts, put in a baking-dish, cover with Chicken Stock highly seasoned with salt and cayenne, and bake until soft, keeping covered until nearly done. There should be a small quantity of stock in pan to serve with chestnuts.

### Cucumbers

Cucumbers may be obtained throughout the year, and are generally served raw. During the latter part of the summer they are gathered and pickled for subsequent use. Small pickled cucumbers are called gherkins.

### Sliced Cucumbers

Remove thick slices from both ends and cut off a thick paring, as the cucumber contains a bitter principle, a large quantity of which lies near the skin and stem end. Cut in thin slices and keep in cold water until ready to serve. Drain, and cover with crushed ice for serving.

### Boiled Cucumbers

Old cucumbers may be pared, cut in pieces, cooked until soft in boiling salted water, drained, mashed, and seasoned, with butter, salt, and pepper.

### Fried Cucumbers

Pare cucumbers and cut lengthwise in one-third inch slices. Dry between towels, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

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### Stuffed Cucumbers

Pare three cucumbers, cut in halves crosswise, remove seeds, and let stand in cold water thirty minutes. Drain, wipe, and fill with force-meat, using recipe for Chicken Force-meat I or II, substituting veal for chicken. Place upright on a trivet in a saucepan. Half surround with White Stock, cover, and cook forty minutes. Place on thin slices of dry toast, cut in circular shapes, and pour around one and one-half cups Béchamel Sauce. Serve as a vegetable course or an entrée.

### Fried Eggplant I

Pare an eggplant and cut in very thin slices. Sprinkle slices with salt and pile on a plate. Cover with a weight to express the juice, and let stand one and one-half hours. Dredge with flour and sauté slowly in butter until crisp and brown. Eggplant is in season from September to February.

### Fried Eggplant II

Pare an eggplant, cut in one-fourth inch slices, and soak over night in cold salted water. Drain, let stand in cold water one-half hour, drain again, and dry between towels. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in batter, or dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat.

### Stuffed Eggplant

Cook eggplant fifteen minutes in boiling salted water to cover. Cut a slice from top, and with a spoon remove pulp, taking care not to work too closely to skin. Chop pulp, and add one cup soft stale bread crumbs. Melt two tablespoons butter, add one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion, and cook five minutes, or try out three slices of bacon, using bacon fat in place of butter. Add to chopped pulp and bread, season with salt and pepper, and if necessary moisten with a little stock or water; cook five minutes, cool slightly, and add one beaten egg. Refill eggplant, cover with buttered bread crumbs, and bake twenty-five minutes in a hot oven.

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### Scalloped Eggplant

Pare an eggplant and cut in two-thirds inch cubes. Cook in a small quantity of boiling water until soft, then drain. Cook two tablespoons butter with one-half onion, finely chopped, until yellow, add three-fourths tablespoon finely chopped parsley and eggplant. Turn into a buttered baking-dish. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake until crumbs are brown.

### Greens

Hothouse beet greens and dandelions appear in market the first of March, when they command a high price. Those grown out of doors are in season from middle of May to first of July.

### Boiled Beet Greens

Wash thoroughly and scrape roots, cutting off ends. Drain, and cook one hour or until tender in a small quantity boiling salted water. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. Serve with vinegar.

### Dandelions

Wash thoroughly, remove roots, drain, and cook one hour or until tender in boiling salted water. Allow two quarts water to one peck dandelions. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. Serve with vinegar.

### Lettuce

Lettuce is obtainable all the year, and is especially valuable during the winter and spring, when other green vegetables in market command a high price. Although containing but little nutriment, it is useful for the large quantity of water and potash salts that it contains, and assists in stimulating the appetite. Curly lettuce is of less value than Tennis Ball, but makes an effective garnish.

Lettuce should be separated by removing leaves from stalk (discarding wilted outer leaves), washed, kept in cold water until crisp, drained, and so placed on a towel that water may drop from leaves. A bag made from white mosquito netting is useful for drying lettuce. Wash lettuce 295leaves, place in bag, and hang in lower part of ice-box to drain. Wire baskets are used for the same purpose. Arrange lettuce for serving in nearly its original shape.

### Leeks on Toast

Wash and trim leeks, cook in boiling salted water until soft, and drain. Arrange on pieces of buttered toast and pour over melted butter, seasoned with salt and pepper.

### Onions

The onion belongs to the same family (Lily) as do shallot, garlic, leek, and chive. Onions are cooked and served as a vegetable. They are wholesome, and contain considerable nutriment, but are objectionable on account of the strong odor they impart to the breath, due to volatile substances absorbed by the blood, and by the blood carried to the lungs, where they are set free. The common garden onion is obtainable throughout the year, the new ones appearing in market about the first of June. In large centres Bermuda and Spanish onions are procurable from March 1st to June 1st, and are of delicate flavor.

Shallot, leek, garlic, and chive are principally used to give additional flavor to food. Shallot, garlic, and chive are used, to some extent, in making salads.

### Boiled Onions

Put onions in cold water and remove skins while under water. Drain, put in a saucepan, and cover with boiling salted water; boil five minutes, drain, and again cover with boiling salted water. Cook one hour or until soft, but not broken. Drain, add a small quantity of milk, cook five minutes, and season with butter, salt, and pepper.

### Onions in Cream

Prepare and cook as Boiled Onions, changing the water twice during boiling; drain, and cover with Cream or Thin White Sauce.

### Scalloped Onions

Cut Boiled Onions in quarters. Put in a buttered baking-dish, cover with White Sauce I, sprinkle with buttered 296cracker crumbs, and place on centre grate in oven to brown crumbs.

### Glazed Onions

Peel small silver skinned onions, and cook in boiling water fifteen minutes. Drain, dry on cheese-cloth, put in a buttered baking-dish, add highly seasoned brown stock to cover bottom of dish, sprinkle with sugar, and bake until soft, basting with stock in pan.

### Fried Onions

Remove skins from four medium-sized onions. Cut in thin slices and put in a hot omelet pan with one and one-half tablespoons butter. Cook until brown, occasionally shaking pan that onions may not burn, or turn onions, using a fork. Sprinkle with salt one minute before taking from fire.

### French Fried Onions

Peel onions, cut in one-fourth inch slices, and separate into rings. Dip in milk, drain, and dip in flour. Fry in deep fat, drain on brown paper, and sprinkle with salt.

### Stuffed Onions

Remove skins from onions, and parboil ten minutes in boiling salted water to cover. Turn upside down to cool, and remove part of centres. Fill cavities with equal parts of finely chopped cooked chicken, stale soft bread crumbs, and finely chopped onion which was removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, and moistened with cream or melted butter. Place in buttered shallow baking-pan, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven until onions are soft.

### Creamed Oyster Plant (Salsify)

Wash, scrape, and put at once into cold acidulated water to prevent discoloration. Cut in inch slices, cook in boiling salted water until soft, drain, and add to White Sauce I. Oyster plant is in season from October to March.

### Salsify Fritters

Cook oyster plant as for Creamed Oyster Plant. Mash, season with butter, salt, and pepper. Shape in small flat cakes, roll in flour, and sauté in butter.

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### Parsnips

Parsnips are not so commonly served as other vegetables; however, they often accompany a boiled dinner. They are raised mostly for feeding cattle. Unless young they contain a large amount of woody fibre, which extends through centre of roots and makes them undesirable as food.

### Parsnips with Drawn Butter Sauce

Wash and scrape parsnips, and cut in pieces two inches long and one-half inch wide and thick. Cook five minutes in boiling salted water, or until soft. Drain, and to two cups add one cup Drawn Butter Sauce.

### Parsnip Fritters

Wash parsnips and cook forty-five minutes in boiling salted water. Drain, plunge into cold water, when skins will be found to slip off easily. Mash, season with butter, salt, and pepper, shape in small flat round cakes, roll in flour, and sauté in butter.

### Peas

Peas contain, next to beans, the largest percentage of proteid of any of the vegetables, and when young are easy of digestion. They appear in market as early as April, coming from Florida and California, and although high in price are hardly worth buying, having been picked so long. Native peas may be obtained the middle of June, and last until the first of September. The early June are small peas, contained in a small pod. McLean, the best peas, are small peas in large flat pods. Champion peas are large, and the pods are well filled, but they lack sweetness. Marrowfat peas are the largest in the market, and are usually sweet.

### Boiled Peas

Remove peas from pods, cover with cold water, and let stand one-half hour. Skim off undeveloped peas which rise to top of water, and drain remaining peas. Cook until soft in a small quantity of boiling water, adding salt the last fifteen 298minutes of cooking. (Consult Time Table for Cooking, p. 28). There should be but little, if any, water to drain from peas when they are cooked. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. If peas have lost much of their natural sweetness, they are improved by the addition of a small amount of sugar.

### Creamed Peas

Drain Boiled Peas, and to two cups peas add three-fourths cup White Sauce II. Canned peas are often drained, rinsed, and reheated in this way.

### Pea Timbales

Drain and rinse one can peas, and rub through a sieve. To one cup pea pulp add two beaten eggs, two tablespoons melted butter, two-thirds teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, few grains cayenne, and few drops onion juice. Turn into buttered moulds, set in pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake until firm. Serve with one cup white sauce to which is added one-third cup canned peas drained and rinsed.

### Stuffed Peppers I

6 green peppers
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons chopped mushrooms
⅓ cup Brown Sauce
3 tablespoons bread crumbs
Salt and pepper
Buttered bread crumbs
4 tablespoons lean raw ham, finely chopped

Cut a slice from stem end of each pepper, remove seeds, and parboil peppers, fifteen minutes.

Cook onion in butter three minutes; add mushrooms and ham, and cook one minute, then add Brown Sauce and bread crumbs. Cool mixture, sprinkle peppers with salt, fill with cooked mixture, cover with buttered bread crumbs and bake ten minutes. Serve on toast with Brown Sauce.

### Stuffed Peppers II

Prepare peppers as for Stuffed Peppers I. Fill with equal parts of finely chopped cold cooked chicken or veal, and softened bread crumbs, seasoned with onion juice, salt, and pepper.

299

### Pumpkins

Pumpkins are boiled or steamed same as squash, but require longer cooking. They are principally used for making pies.

### Radishes

Radishes may be obtained throughout the year. There are round and long varieties, the small round ones being considered best. They are bought in bunches, six or seven constituting a bunch. Radishes are used merely for a relish, and are served uncooked. To prepare radishes for table, remove leaves, stems, and tip end of root, scrape roots, and serve on crushed ice. Round radishes look very attractive cut to imitate tulips, when they should not be scraped; to accomplish this, begin at root end and make six incisions through skin running three-fourths length of radish. Pass knife under sections of skin, and cut down as far as incisions extend. Place in cold water, and sections of skin will fold back, giving radish a tulip-like appearance.

### Spinach

Spinach is cheapest and best in early summer, but is obtainable throughout the year. It gives variety to winter diet, when most green vegetables are expensive and of inferior quality.

### Boiled Spinach

Remove roots, carefully pick over (discarding wilted leaves), and wash in several waters to be sure that it is free from all sand. When young and tender put in a stewpan, allow to heat gradually, and boil twenty-five minutes, or until tender, in its own juices. Old spinach is better cooked in boiling salted water, allowing two quarts water to one peck spinach. Drain thoroughly, chop finely, reheat, and season with butter, salt, and pepper. Mound on a serving dish and garnish with slices of “hard-boiled” eggs and toast points. The green color of spinach is better retained by cooking in a large quantity of water in an uncovered vessel.

300

### Spinach à la Béchamel

Prepare one-half peck Boiled Spinach. Put three tablespoons butter in hot omelet pan; when melted, add chopped spinach, cook three minutes. Sprinkle with two tablespoons flour, stir thoroughly, and add gradually three-fourths cup milk; cook five minutes.

### Purée of Spinach

Wash and pick over one-half peck spinach. Cook in an uncovered vessel with a large quantity of boiling salted water to which is added one-third teaspoon soda and one-half teaspoon sugar. Drain, chop finely, and rub through a sieve. Reheat, add three tablespoons butter, one tablespoon flour, and one-half cup cream. Arrange on serving dish and garnish with yolk and white of “hard-boiled” egg and fried bread cut in fancy shapes.

### Spinach (French Style)

Pick over and wash one peck spinach, and cook in boiling salted water twenty-five minutes. Drain, and finely chop. Reheat in hot pan with four tablespoons butter to which have been added three tablespoons flour and two-thirds cup Chicken Stock. Season with one teaspoon powdered sugar, salt, pepper, and a few gratings each of nutmeg and lemon rind.

### Squash

Summer squash, which are in market during the summer months, should be young, tender, and thin skinned. The common varieties are the white round and yellow crook-neck. Some of the winter varieties appear in market as early as the middle of August; among the most common are Marrow, Turban, and Hubbard. Turban and Hubbard are usually drier than Marrow. Marrow and Turban have a thin shell, which may be pared off before cooking. Hubbard Squash has a very hard shell, which must be split in order to separate squash in pieces, and squash then cooked in the shell. In selecting winter squash, see that it is heavy in proportion to its size.

301

### Boiled Summer Squash

Wash squash and cut in thick slices or quarters. Cook twenty minutes in boiling salted water, or until soft. Turn in a cheese-cloth placed over a colander, drain, and wring in cheese-cloth. Mash, and season with butter, salt, and pepper.

### Fried Summer Squash I

Wash, and cut in one-half inch slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in hot fat, and drain.

### Fried Summer Squash II

Follow recipe for Fried Eggplant I.

### Steamed Winter Squash

Cut in pieces, remove seeds and stringy portion, and pare. Place in a strainer and cook thirty minutes, or until soft, over boiling water. Mash, and season with butter, salt, and pepper. If lacking in sweetness, add a small quantity of sugar.

### Boiled Winter Squash

Prepare as for Steamed Winter Squash. Cook in boiling salted water, drain, mash, and season. Unless squash is very dry, it is much better steamed than boiled.

### Baked Winter Squash I

Cut in pieces two inches square, remove seeds and stringy portion, place in a dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and allow for each square one-half teaspoon molasses and one-half teaspoon melted butter. Bake fifty minutes, or until soft, in a moderate oven, keeping covered the first half-hour of cooking. Serve in the shell.

### Baked Winter Squash II

Cut squash in halves, remove seeds and stringy portion, place in a dripping-pan, cover, and bake two hours, or until soft, in a slow oven. Remove from shell, mash, and season with butter, salt, and pepper.

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### Tomatoes

Tomatoes are obtainable throughout the year, but are cheapest and best in September. Hothouse tomatoes are in market during the winter, and command a very high price, sometimes retailing for one and one-half dollars a pound.

Southern tomatoes appear as early as May 1st, and although of good color, lack flavor. Of the many varieties of tomatoes, Acme is among the best.

### Sliced Tomatoes

Wipe, and cover with boiling water; let stand one minute, when they may be easily skinned. Chill thoroughly, and cut in one-third inch slices.

### Stewed Tomatoes

Wipe, pare, cut in pieces, put in stewpan, and cook slowly twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with butter, salt, and pepper.

Scalloped Tomatoes

Remove contents from one can tomatoes and drain tomatoes from some of their liquor. Season with salt, pepper, a few drops of onion juice, and sugar if preferred sweet. Cover the bottom of a buttered baking-dish with buttered cracker crumbs, cover with tomatoes, and sprinkle top thickly with buttered crumbs. Bake in a hot oven until crumbs are brown.

### Broiled Tomatoes

Wipe and cut in halves crosswise, cut off a thin slice from rounding part of each half. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, place in a well-buttered broiler, and broil six to eight minutes.

### Tomatoes à la Crême

Wipe, peel, and slice three tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. Place on a hot platter and pour over them one cup White Sauce I.

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### Devilled Tomatoes

3 tomatoes
Salt and pepper
Flour
Butter for sautéing
4 tablespoons butter
2 teaspoons powdered sugar
1 teaspoon mustard
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Yolk 1 “hard-boiled” egg
1 egg
2 tablespoons vinegar

Wipe, peel, and cut tomatoes in slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. Place on a hot platter and pour over the dressing made by creaming the butter, adding dry ingredients, yolk of egg rubbed to a paste, egg beaten slightly, and vinegar, then cooking over hot water, stirring constantly until it thickens.

### Baked Tomatoes I

Wipe, and remove a thin slice from stem end of six smooth, medium-sized tomatoes. Take out seeds and pulp, and drain off most of the liquid. Add an equal quantity of cracker crumbs, season with salt, pepper, and a few drops onion juice, and refill tomatoes with mixture. Place in a buttered pan, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven.

### Baked Tomatoes II

Wipe six small, selected tomatoes and make two one-inch gashes on blossom end of each, having gashes cross each other at right angles. Place in granite-ware pan and bake until thoroughly heated. Serve with sauce for Devilled Tomatoes, adding, just before serving, one tablespoon heavy cream.

### Stuffed Tomatoes

Wipe, and remove thin slices from stem end of six medium-sized tomatoes. Take out seeds and pulp, sprinkle inside of tomatoes with salt, invert, and let stand one-half hour. Cook five minutes two tablespoons butter with one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion. Add one-half cup finely chopped cold cooked chicken or veal, one-half cup stale soft bread crumbs, tomato pulp, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook five minutes, then add one egg slightly beaten, cook 304one minute, and refill tomatoes with mixture. Place in buttered pan, sprinkle with buttered cracker crumbs, and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven.

### Turnips

Turnips are best during the fall and winter; towards spring they become corky, and are then suitable only for stews and flavoring. The Ruta-baga, a large yellow turnip, is one of the best varieties; the large white French turnip and the small flat Purple Top are also used.

### Mashed Turnip

Wash and pare turnips, cut in slices or quarters, and cook in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, mash, and season with butter, salt, and pepper.

### Creamed Turnip

Wash turnips, and cut in one-half inch cubes. Cook three cups cubes in boiling salted water twenty minutes, or until soft. Drain, and add one cup White Sauce I.

### Turnip Croquettes

Wash, pare, and cut in quarters new French turnips. Steam until tender, mash, pressing out all water that is possible. This is best accomplished by wringing in cheese-cloth. Season one and one-fourth cups with salt and pepper, then add yolks of two eggs slightly beaten. Cool, shape in small croquettes, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

### Stewed Mushrooms

Wash one-half pound mushrooms. Remove stems, scrape, and cut in pieces. Peel caps, and break in pieces. Melt three tablespoons of butter, add mushrooms, cook two minutes; sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and add one-half cup hot water or stock. Cook slowly five minutes.

### Stewed Mushrooms in Cream

Prepare mushrooms as for Stewed Mushrooms. Cook with three-fourths cup cream instead of using water or stock. 305Add a slight grating of nutmeg, pour over small finger-shaped pieces of dry toast, and garnish with toast points and parsley.

### Broiled Mushrooms

Wash mushrooms, remove stems, and place caps in a buttered broiler and broil five minutes, having cap side down first half of broiling. Serve on circular pieces of buttered dry toast. Put a small piece of butter in each cap, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve as soon as butter has melted. Care must be taken, in removing from broiler, to keep mushrooms cap side up, to prevent loss of juices.

### Baked Mushrooms in Cream

Wash twelve large mushrooms. Remove stems, and peel caps. Put in a shallow buttered pan, cap side up. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dot over with butter; add two-thirds cup cream. Bake ten minutes in a hot oven. Place on pieces of dry toast, and pour over them cream remaining in pan.

### Sautéd Mushrooms

Wash, remove stems, peel caps, and break in pieces; there should be one cup of mushrooms. Put two tablespoons butter in a hot omelet pan; when melted, add mushrooms which have been dredged with flour, few drops onion juice, one-fourth teaspoon salt, a few grains pepper, and cook five minutes. Add one teaspoon finely chopped parsley and one-fourth cup boiling water. Cook two minutes, and serve on dry toast.

### Mushrooms à la Sabine

Wash one-half pound mushrooms, remove stems, and peel caps. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and cook three minutes in a hot frying-pan, with two tablespoons butter. Add one and one-third cups Brown Sauce, and cook slowly five minutes. Sprinkle with three tablespoons grated cheese. As soon as cheese is melted, arrange mushrooms on pieces of toast, and pour over sauce. Garnish with parsley.

306

### Mushrooms à l’Algonquin

Wash large selected mushrooms. Remove stems, peel caps, and sauté caps in butter. Place in a small buttered shallow pan, cap side being up; place on each a large oyster, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and place on each a bit of butter. Cook in a hot oven until oysters are plump. Serve with Brown or Béchamel Sauce.

### Mushrooms Allamande

Clean mushroom caps and sauté in butter. Put together in pairs, cover with Allamande Sauce, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

Allamande Sauce. Melt three tablespoons butter, add one-third cup flour, and pour on gradually one cup White Stock; then add one egg yolk and season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.

### Stuffed Mushrooms

Wash twelve large mushrooms. Remove stems, chop finely, and peel caps. Melt three tablespoons butter, add one-half tablespoon finely chopped shallot and chopped stems, then cook ten minutes. Add one and one-half tablespoons flour, chicken stock to moisten, a slight grating of nutmeg, one-half teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Cool mixture and fill caps, well rounding over top. Cover with buttered cracker crumbs, and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven.

### Mushrooms under Glass I

Cover the bottom of an individual baking-dish with circular pieces of toasted bread. Arrange mushroom caps on toast, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot over with butter, and pour over a small quantity of hot cream. Cover, and bake twenty minutes.

Individual dishes with bell-shaped glass covers may be bought at first-class kitchen furnishers. These dishes are sent to table with covers left on, that the fine flavor of the prepared viand may all be retained.

307

### Mushrooms under Glass II

2 tablespoons butter
½ tablespoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
¼ teaspoon finely chopped parsley
Bread
¼ cup heavy cream
Sherry wine
Mushrooms

Cream the butter, add lemon juice drop by drop, salt, pepper, and parsley. Cut bread in circular pieces three-eighths inch thick, then toast. Put one-half of the sauce on the under side of toast; put toast on a small baking-dish, pile mushroom caps cleaned and peeled in conical shape on toast, and pour over cream. Cover with glass and bake about twenty-five minutes, adding more cream if necessary. Just before serving add one teaspoon Sherry wine.

### Vegetable Soufflé

¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
⅓ cup cream
⅓ cup water in which vegetables were cooked
1 cup cooked vegetables rubbed through a sieve,—carrots, turnips, or onions
Yolks 3 eggs
Whites 3 eggs
Salt and pepper

Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually cream and water; add vegetable, yolks of eggs beaten until thick and lemon-colored, and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff; then add seasonings. Turn in a buttered baking-dish and bake in a slow oven.

### Curried Vegetables

Cook one cup each potatoes and carrots, and one-half cup turnip, cut in fancy shapes, in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, add one-half cup canned peas, and pour over a sauce made by cooking two tablespoons butter with two slices onion five minutes, removing onion, adding two tablespoons flour, three-fourths teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon curry powder, one-fourth teaspoon pepper, few grains celery salt, and pouring on gradually one cup scalded milk. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

308

### Macedoine of Vegetables à la Poulette

Clean carrots and turnips and cut into strips or fancy shapes; there should be one and one-fourth cups carrots and one-half cup turnips. Cook separately in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, and add one and one-fourth cups cooked peas. Reheat in a sauce made of three tablespoons butter, three tablespoons flour, one cup chicken stock, and one-half cup cream. Season to taste with pepper and salt, and just before serving add yolks two eggs and one-half tablespoon lemon juice.

Macedoine of Vegetables à la Poulette.—Page 308.

Stuffed Peppers.—Page 298.

O’Brion Potatoes.—Page 315.

309

## CHAPTER XX
POTATOES

### COMPOSITION

Water, 78.9%
Starch, 18%
Proteid, 2.1%
Mineral matter, .9%
Fat 1.%

Potatoes stand pre-eminent among the vegetables used for food. They are tubers belonging to the Nightshade family; their hardy growth renders them easy of cultivation in almost any soil or climate, and, resisting early frosts, they may be raised in a higher latitude than the cereals.

They give needed bulk to food rather than nutriment, and, lacking in proteid, should be used in combination with meat, fish, or eggs.

Potatoes contain an acrid juice, the greater part of which lies near the skin; it passes into the water during boiling of potatoes, and escapes with the steam from a baked potato.

Potatoes are best in the fall, and keep well through the winter. By spring the starch is partially changed to dextrin, giving the potatoes a sweetness, and when cooked a waxiness. The same change takes place when potatoes are frozen. To prevent freezing, keep a pail of cold water standing near them.

Potatoes keep best in a cool dry cellar, in barrels or piled in a bin. When sprouts appear they should be removed; receiving their nourishment from the starch, they deteriorate the potato.

New potatoes may be compared to unripe fruit, the starch-grains not having reached maturity; therefore they should not be given to children or invalids.

310

### Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potatoes, although analogous to white potatoes, are fleshy roots of the plant, belong to a different family (Convolvulus), and contain a much larger percentage of sugar. Our own country produces large quantities of sweet potatoes, which may be grown as far north as New Jersey and Southern Michigan. Kiln-dried sweet potatoes are the best, as they do not so quickly spoil.

### Baked Potatoes

Select smooth, medium-sized potatoes. Wash, using a vegetable brush, and place in dripping-pan. Bake in hot oven forty minutes or until soft, remove from oven, and serve at once. If allowed to stand, unless the skin is ruptured for escape of steam, they become soggy. Properly baked potatoes are more easily digested than potatoes cooked in any other way, as some of the starch is changed to dextrin by the intense heat. They are better cooked in boiling water than baked in a slow oven.

### Boiled Potatoes

Select potatoes of uniform size. Wash, pare, and drop at once in cold water to prevent discoloration; soak one-half hour in the fall, and one to two hours in winter and spring. Cook in boiling salted water until soft, which is easily determined by piercing with a skewer. For seven potatoes allow one tablespoon salt, and boiling water to cover. Drain from water, and keep uncovered in warm place until serving time. Avoid sending to table in a covered vegetable dish. In boiling large potatoes, it often happens that outside is soft, while centre is underdone. To finish cooking without potatoes breaking apart, add one pint cold water, which drives heat to centre, thus accomplishing the cooking.

### Riced Potatoes

Force hot boiled potatoes through a potato ricer or coarse strainer. Serve lightly piled in a hot vegetable dish.

311

### Mashed Potatoes

To five riced potatoes add three tablespoons butter, one teaspoon salt, few grains pepper, and one-third cup hot milk; beat with fork until creamy, reheat, and pile lightly in hot dish.

### Potato Omelet

Prepare Mashed Potatoes, turn in hot omelet pan greased with one tablespoon butter, spread evenly, cook slowly until browned underneath, and fold as an omelet.

### Potato Border

Place a buttered mould on platter, build around it a wall of hot Mashed Potatoes, three and one-half inches high by one inch deep, smooth, and crease with case knife. Remove mould, fill with creamed meat or fish, and reheat in oven before serving.

### Escalloped Potatoes

Mash, pare, soak, and cut four potatoes in one-fourth inch slices. Put a layer in buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and dot over with one-half tablespoon butter; repeat. Add hot milk until it may be seen through top layer, bake one and one-fourth hours or until potato is soft.

### Potatoes à la Hollandaise

Mash, pare, soak, and cut potatoes in one-fourth inch slices, shape with French vegetable cutters; or cut in one-half inch cubes. Cover three cups potato with White Stock, cook until soft, and drain. Cream one-third cup butter, add one tablespoon lemon juice, one-half teaspoon salt, and few grains of cayenne. Add to potatoes, cook three minutes, and add one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley.

### Chambery Potatoes

Wash, pare, and thinly slice potatoes, using vegetable slicer. Let stand one-half hour in cold water, then drain, and dry between towels. Arrange in layers in a well buttered iron frying-pan, having pan three-fourths full, 312seasoning each layer with salt and pepper, and brushing over with melted butter. Cook in a moderate oven until soft and well browned.

### Potatoes Baked in Half Shell

Select six medium-sized potatoes and bake, following recipe for Baked Potatoes. Remove from oven, cut slice from top of each, and scoop out inside. Mash, add two tablespoons butter, salt, pepper, and three tablespoons hot milk; then add whites two eggs well beaten. Refill skins, and bake five to eight minutes in very hot oven. Potatoes may be sprinkled with grated cheese before putting in oven.

### Duchess Potatoes

To two cups hot riced potatoes add two tablespoons butter, one-half teaspoon salt, and yolks of three eggs slightly beaten. Shape, using pastry bag and tube, in form of baskets, pyramids, crowns, leaves, roses, etc. Brush over with beaten egg diluted with one teaspoon water, and brown in a hot oven.

### Maître d’Hôtel Potatoes

Wash, pare, and shape potatoes in balls, using a French vegetable cutter, or cut potatoes in one-half inch cubes. There should be two cups. Soak fifteen minutes in cold water, and cook in boiling salted water to cover until soft. Drain, and add Maître d’Hôtel Butter.

### Maître d’Hôtel Butter

Cream three tablespoons butter, add one teaspoon lemon juice, one-half teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, and one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley.

### Franconia Potatoes

Prepare as for Boiled Potatoes, and parboil ten minutes; drain, and place in pan in which meat is roasting; bake until soft, basting with fat in pan when basting meat. Time required for baking about forty minutes. Sweet potatoes may be prepared in the same way.

313

### Brabant Potatoes

Prepare same as for Boiled Potatoes, using small potatoes, and trim egg-shaped; parboil ten minutes, drain, and place in baking-pan and bake until soft, basting three times with melted butter.

### Anna Potatoes

Wash and pare medium-sized potatoes. Cut lengthwise in one-fourth inch slices, and fasten in fan shapes, with small wooden skewers, allowing five slices of potato to each skewer. Parboil ten minutes, drain, then place in a dripping-pan, and bake in a hot oven until soft, basting every three minutes with butter or some other fat.

### Persillade Potatoes

Wash and pare small potatoes, and cut in shapes of large olives. Cook in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, and let stand to dry off. Turn into hot serving dish, pour over clarified butter, sprinkle generously with paprika, and send to table at once.

### Potato Balls

Select large potatoes, wash, pare, and soak. Shape in balls with a French vegetable cutter. Cook in boiling salted water until soft; drain, and to one pint potatoes add one cup Thin White Sauce. Turn into hot dish, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

### Hongroise Potatoes

Wash, pare, and cut potatoes in one-third inch cubes,—there should be three cups; parboil three minutes, and drain. Add one-third cup butter, and cook on back of range until potatoes are soft and slightly browned. Melt two tablespoons butter, add a few drops onion juice, two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one cup hot milk. Season with salt and paprika, then add one egg yolk. Pour sauce over potatoes, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

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### FRIED POTATOES

#### Shadow Potatoes (Saratoga Chips)

Wash and pare potatoes. Slice thinly (using vegetable slicer) into a bowl of cold water. Let stand two hours, changing water twice. Drain, plunge in a kettle of boiling water, and boil one minute. Drain again, and cover with cold water. Take from water and dry between towels. Fry in deep fat until light brown, keeping in motion with a skimmer. Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with salt.

#### Shredded Potatoes

Wash, pare, and cut potatoes in one-eighth inch slices. Cut slices in one-eighth inch strips. Soak one hour in cold water. Take from water, dry between towels, and fry in deep fat. Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with salt. Serve around fried or baked fish.

#### Lattice Potatoes

Wash and pare potatoes. Slice, using a vegetable slicer which comes for this purpose, and let stand in a bowl of cold water two hours. Drain, and dry between towels. Fry in deep fat, drain on brown paper, and sprinkle with salt.

#### Potato Nests

Wash, pare, and cut potatoes in thin strips, using same slicer as for Lattice Potatoes. Soak in cold water fifteen minutes, drain, and dry between towels. Line a fine wire strainer of four-inch diameter, and having a wire handle, with potatoes, place a similar strainer, having a two and one-half inch diameter, in larger strainer, thus holding potatoes in nest shapes. Fry in deep fat, taking care that the fat does not reach too high a temperature at first. Keep the small strainer in place during frying with a long handled spoon. Carefully remove nests from strainers. Drain on brown paper, and sprinkle with salt. Fill with small fillets of fried fish or fried smelts.

315

#### French Fried Potatoes

Wash and pare small potatoes, cut in eighths lengthwise, and soak one hour in cold water. Take from water, dry between towels, and fry in deep fat. Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with salt.

Care must be taken that fat is not too hot, as potatoes must be cooked as well as browned.

#### O’Brion Potatoes

Fry three cups potato cubes or balls in deep fat, drain on brown paper, and sprinkle with salt. Cook one slice onion in one and one-half tablespoons butter three minutes, remove onion, and add to butter three canned pimentoes cut in small pieces. When thoroughly heated add potatoes; stir until well mixed, turn into serving dish, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

#### Potato Marbles

Wash and pare potatoes. Shape in balls, using a French vegetable cutter. Soak fifteen minutes in cold water; take from water and dry between towels. Fry in deep fat, drain, and sprinkle with salt.

#### Fried Potato Balls

To one cup hot riced potatoes add one tablespoon butter, one-fourth teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon celery salt, and few grains cayenne. Cool slightly, and add one-half beaten egg and one-half teaspoon finely chopped parsley. Shape in small balls, roll in flour, fry in deep fat, and drain.

#### Potatoes, Somerset Style

To two cups hot riced potatoes add two tablespoons butter, one-half cup grated mild cheese, yolks three eggs, slightly beaten, one-half teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. Shape in form of birds, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, insert slices of raw potato cut to represent wings and tail, and cloves to represent eyes. Fry in deep fat and drain on brown paper.

316

#### Potato Fritters

2 cups hot riced potatoes
2 tablespoons cream
2 tablespoons wine
1 teaspoon salt
Few gratings nutmeg
Few grains cayenne
3 eggs
Yolks 2 eggs
½ cup flour

Add cream, wine, and seasonings to potatoes; then add eggs well beaten, having bowl containing mixture in pan of ice-water, and beat until cold. Add flour, and when well mixed, drop by spoonfuls in deep fat, fry until delicately browned, and drain on brown paper.

#### Potato Curls

Wash and pare large long potatoes. Shape with a potato curler, soak one hour in cold water, drain, dry between towels, fry in deep fat, drain, and sprinkle with salt.

#### Potato Croquettes

2 cups hot riced potatoes
2 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon celery salt
Few grains cayenne
Few drops onion juice
Yolk 1 egg
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley

Mix ingredients in order given, and beat thoroughly. Shape, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry one minute in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Croquettes are shaped in a variety of forms. The most common way is to first form a smooth ball by rolling one rounding tablespoon of mixture between hands. Then roll on a board until of desired length, and flatten ends.

#### French Potato Croquettes

2 cups hot riced potatoes
2 tablespoons butter
Yolks 3 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Mix ingredients in order given, and beat thoroughly. Shape in balls, then in rolls, pointed at ends. Roll in flour, mark in three places on top of each with knife-blade to represent a small French loaf. Fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

Potato Croquettes ready for frying.—Page 316.

Potato Nests (Page 314). Potatoes, Somerset Style (Page 315).

Cucumber Salad.—Page 328.

Cucumber Baskets.—Page 328.

317

#### Potato Apples

2 cups hot riced potatoes
2 tablespoons butter
⅓ cup grated cheese
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Slight grating nutmeg
2 tablespoons thick cream
Yolks 2 eggs

Mix ingredients in order given, and beat thoroughly. Shape in form of small apples, roll in flour, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Insert a clove at both stem and blossom end of each apple.

#### Potatoes en Surprise

Make Potato Croquette mixture, omitting parsley. Shape in small nests and fill with Creamed Chicken, shrimp, or peas. Cover nests with Croquette mixture, then roll in form of croquettes. Dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again; fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

### SWEET POTATOES

#### Baked Sweet Potatoes

Prepare and bake same as white potatoes.

#### Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style

Bake six medium-sized sweet potatoes, remove from oven, cut in halves lengthwise, and scoop out inside. Mash, add two tablespoons butter, and cream to moisten. Season with salt and Sherry wine. Refill skins and bake five minutes in a hot oven.

#### Boiled Sweet Potatoes

Select potatoes of uniform size. Wash, pare, and cook twenty minutes in boiling salted water to cover. Many boil sweet potatoes with the skins on.

#### Mashed Sweet Potatoes

To two cups riced sweet potatoes add three tablespoons butter, one-half teaspoon salt, and hot milk to moisten. Beat until light, and pile on a vegetable dish.

318

#### Sweet Potatoes, Georgian Style

Season mashed boiled sweet potatoes with butter, salt, pepper, and Sherry wine. Moisten with cream, and beat five minutes. Put in a buttered baking-dish, leaving a rough surface. Pour over a syrup made by boiling two tablespoons molasses and one teaspoon butter five minutes. Bake in the oven until delicately browned.

#### Glazed Sweet Potatoes

Wash and pare six medium-sized potatoes. Cook ten minutes in boiling salted water. Drain, cut in halves lengthwise, and put in a buttered pan. Make a syrup by boiling three minutes one-half cup sugar and four tablespoons water; add one tablespoon butter. Brush potatoes with syrup and bake fifteen minutes, basting twice with remaining syrup.

#### Sweet Potatoes au Gratin

Cut five medium-sized cold boiled sweet potatoes in one-third inch slices. Put a layer in buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and three tablespoons brown sugar, dot over with one tablespoon butter. Repeat, cover with buttered cracker crumbs, and bake until the crumbs are brown.

#### Sweet Potatoes en Brochette

Wash and pare potatoes, and cut in one-third inch slices. Arrange on skewers in groups of three or four, parboil six minutes, and drain. Brush over with melted butter, sprinkle with brown sugar, and bake in a hot oven until well browned.

#### Sweet Potato Balls

To two cups hot riced sweet potatoes add three tablespoons butter, one-half teaspoon salt, few grains pepper, and one beaten egg. Shape in small balls, roll in flour, fry in deep fat, and drain. If potatoes are very dry, it will be necessary to add hot milk to moisten.

#### Sweet Potato Croquettes

Prepare mixture for Sweet Potato Balls. Shape in croquettes, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

319

### WARMED OVER POTATOES

#### Potato Cakes

Shape cold mashed potato in small cakes, and roll in flour. Butter hot omelet pan, put in cakes, brown one side, turn and brown other side, adding butter as needed to prevent burning; or pack potato in small buttered pan as soon as it comes from table, and set aside until ready for use. Turn from pan, cut in pieces, roll in flour, and cook same as Potato Cakes.

#### Creamed Potatoes

Reheat two cups cold boiled potatoes, cut in dice, in one and one-fourth cups White Sauce I.

#### Potatoes au Gratin

Put Creamed Potatoes in buttered baking-dish, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake on centre grate until crumbs are brown.

#### Delmonico Potatoes

To Potatoes au Gratin add one-third cup grated mild cheese, arranging potatoes and cheese in alternate layers before covering with crumbs.

#### Potatoes à l’Antlers

Cook potatoes with jackets on, drain, and let stand twenty-four hours. Peel, and cut in small cubes. Put into a saucepan with two tablespoons butter to each two cups potatoes. Sprinkle with salt, and generously with paprika. Add cream to cover, and cook slowly, forty minutes.

#### Hashed Brown Potatoes

Try out fat salt pork cut in small cubes, remove scraps; there should be about one-third cup of fat. Add two cups cold boiled potatoes finely chopped, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, and salt if needed. Mix potatoes thoroughly with fat; cook three minutes, stirring constantly; let stand to brown underneath. Fold as an omelet and turn on hot platter.

320

#### Sautéd Potatoes

Cut cold boiled potatoes in one-fourth inch slices, season with salt and pepper, put in a hot, well-greased frying-pan, brown on one side, turn and brown on other side.

#### Chartreuse Potatoes

Cut cold boiled potatoes in one-fourth inch slices, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a few drops onion juice, put together in pairs, dip in Batter I, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

#### Lyonnaise Potatoes I

Cook five minutes three tablespoons butter with one small onion cut in thin slices; add three cold boiled potatoes cut in one-fourth inch slices and sprinkled with salt and pepper; stir until well mixed with onion and butter; let stand until potato is brown underneath, fold, and turn on a hot platter. This dish is much improved and potatoes brown better by addition of two tablespoons Brown Stock. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley if desired.

#### Lyonnaise Potatoes II

Slice cold boiled potatoes to make two cups. Cook five minutes one and one-half tablespoons butter with one tablespoon finely chopped onion. Melt two tablespoons butter, season with salt and pepper, add potatoes, and cook until potatoes have absorbed butter, occasionally shaking pan. Add butter and onion, and when well mixed, add one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley.

French Chef

#### Oak Hill Potatoes

Cut four cold boiled potatoes and six “hard-boiled” eggs in one-fourth inch slices. Put layer of potatoes in buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with layer of eggs; repeat, and pour over two cups Thin White Sauce. Cover with buttered cracker crumbs and bake until the crumbs are brown.

321

#### Curried Potatoes

Cook one-fourth cup butter with one small onion, finely chopped, until yellow; add three cups cold boiled potato cubes, and cook until potatoes have absorbed butter, then add from one-half to three-fourths cup White Stock, one half tablespoon each curry powder and lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook until potatoes have absorbed stock.

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## CHAPTER XXI
SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS

Salads, which constitute a course in almost every dinner, but a few years since seldom appeared on the table. They are now made in an endless variety of ways, and are composed of meat, fish, vegetables (alone or in combination) or fruits, with the addition of a dressing. The salad plants, lettuce, watercress, chiccory, cucumbers, etc., contain but little nutriment, but are cooling, refreshing, and assist in stimulating the appetite. They are valuable for the water and potash salts they contain. The olive oil, which usually forms the largest part of the dressing, furnishes nutriment, and is of much value to the system.

Salads made of greens should always be served crisp and cold. The vegetables should be thoroughly washed, allowed to stand in cold or ice-water until crisp, then drained and spread on a towel and set aside in a cold place until serving time. See Lettuce, page 294. Dressing may be added at table or just before sending to table. If greens are allowed to stand in dressing they will soon wilt. It should be remembered that winter greens are raised under glass and should be treated as any other hothouse plant. Lettuce will be affected by a change of temperature and wilt just as quickly as delicate flowers.

Canned or cold cooked left-over vegetables are well utilized in salads, but are best mixed with French Dressing and allowed to stand in a cold place one hour before serving. Where several vegetables are used in the same salad they should be marinated separately, and arranged for serving just before sending to table.

323Meat for salads should be freed from skin and gristle, cut in small cubes, and allowed to stand mixed with French Dressing before combining with vegetables. Fish should be flaked or cut in cubes.

Where salads are dressed at table, first sprinkle with salt and pepper, add oil, and lastly vinegar. If vinegar is added before oil, the greens will become wet, and oil will not cling, but settle to bottom of bowl.

A Chapon. Remove a small piece from end of French loaf and rub over with a clove of garlic, first dipped in salt. Place in bottom of salad bowl before arranging salad. A chapon is often used in vegetable salads, and gives an agreeable additional flavor.

To Marinate. The word marinate, as used in cookery, means to add salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar to a salad ingredient or mixture, then allow to let stand until well seasoned.

### SALAD DRESSINGS

#### French Dressing

½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons vinegar
4 tablespoons olive oil

Mix ingredients and stir until well blended. Some prefer the addition of a few drops onion juice. French Dressing is more easily prepared and largely used than any other dressing.

#### Parisian French Dressing

½ cup olive oil
5 tablespoons vinegar
½ teaspoon powdered sugar
1 tablespoon finely chopped Bermuda onion
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
4 red peppers
8 green peppers
1 teaspoon salt

Mix ingredients in the order given. Let stand one hour, then stir vigorously for five minutes. This is especially fine with lettuce, romaine, chiccory, or endive. The red and green peppers are the small ones found in pepper sauce.

324

#### Club French Dressing

½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons brandy
2 tablespoons Tarragon vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil

Mix ingredients and stir until well blended.

#### Curry Dressing

¾ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon curry powder
¼ teaspoon pepper
5 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons vinegar

Mix ingredients in order given and stir until well blended.

#### Cream Dressing I

½ tablespoon salt
½ tablespoon mustard
¾ tablespoon sugar
1 egg slightly beaten
2½ tablespoons melted butter
¾ cup cream
¼ cup vinegar

Mix ingredients in order given, adding vinegar very slowly. Cook over boiling water, stirring constantly until mixture thickens, strain and cool.

#### Cream Dressing II

1 teaspoon mustard
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons flour
1½ teaspoons powdered sugar
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon melted butter
Yolk 1 egg
⅓ cup hot vinegar
½ cup thick cream

Mix dry ingredients, add butter, egg, and vinegar slowly. Cook over boiling water, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens; cool, and add to heavy cream, beaten until stiff.

#### Boiled Dressing I

½ tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon mustard
1½ tablespoons sugar
Few grains cayenne
½ tablespoon flour
Yolks 2 eggs
1½ tablespoons melted butter
¾ cup milk
¼ cup vinegar

Mix dry ingredients, add yolks of eggs slightly beaten, butter, milk, and vinegar very slowly. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens; strain and cool.

325

#### Boiled Dressing II

Yolks 4 eggs
½ cup olive oil
4 tablespoons vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1½ teaspoons salt
3 teaspoons powdered sugar
1 pint whipped cream

Beat yolks of eggs slightly, add gradually one-half of the oil and lemon juice. Cook in double boiler until mixture thickens; chill, and add gradually remaining oil, salt, and sugar. Just before serving add cream.

#### German Dressing

½ cup thick cream
3 tablespoons vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Beat cream until stiff, using Dover Egg-beater. Add salt, pepper, and vinegar very slowly, continuing the beating.

#### Chicken Salad Dressing

½ cup rich chicken stock
½ cup vinegar
Yolks 5 eggs
2 tablespoons mixed mustard
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
Few grains cayenne
½ cup thick cream
⅓ cup melted butter

Reduce stock in which a fowl has been cooked to one-half cupful. Add vinegar, yolks of eggs slightly beaten, mustard, salt, pepper, and cayenne. Cook over boiling water, stirring constantly until mixture thickens. Strain, add cream and melted butter, then cool.

#### Oil Dressing I

4 “hard-boiled” eggs
4 tablespoons oil
4 tablespoons vinegar
½ tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon mustard
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
White 1 egg

Force yolks of “hard-boiled” eggs through a strainer, then work, using a silver or wooden spoon, until smooth. Add sugar, mustard, salt, and cayenne, and when well blended add gradually oil and vinegar, stirring and beating until thoroughly mixed; then cut and fold in white of egg beaten until stiff.

326

#### Oil Dressing II

1½ teaspoons mustard
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons powdered sugar
Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons oil
⅓ cup vinegar diluted with cold water to make one-half cup
2 eggs, slightly beaten

Mix dry ingredients, add egg and oil gradually, stirring constantly until thoroughly mixed; then add diluted vinegar. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens; strain and cool.

#### Mayonnaise Dressing I

1 teaspoon mustard
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon powdered sugar
Few grains cayenne
Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons vinegar
1½ cups olive oil

Mix dry ingredients, add egg yolks, and when well mixed add one-half teaspoon of vinegar. Add oil gradually, at first drop by drop, and stir constantly. As mixture thickens, thin with vinegar or lemon juice. Add oil, and vinegar or lemon juice alternately, until all is used, stirring or beating constantly. If oil is added too rapidly, dressing will have a curdled appearance. A smooth consistency may be restored by taking yolk of another egg and adding curdled mixture slowly to it. It is desirable to have bowl containing mixture placed in a larger bowl of crushed ice, to which a small quantity of water has been added. Olive oil for making Mayonnaise should always be thoroughly chilled. A silver fork, wire whisk, small wooden spoon, or Dover Egg-beater may be used as preferred. If one has a Keystone Egg-beater, dressing may be made very quickly by its use. Mayonnaise should be stiff enough to hold its shape. It soon liquefies when added to meat or vegetables; therefore it should be added just before serving time.

#### Mayonnaise Dressing II

Use same ingredients as for Mayonnaise Dressing I, adding mashed yolk of a “hard-boiled” egg to dry ingredients.

French Chef
327

#### Cream Mayonnaise Dressing

To Mayonnaise Dressing I or II add one-third cup thick cream, beaten until stiff. This recipe should be used only when dressing is to be eaten the day it is made.

#### Green Mayonnaise

Color Mayonnaise Dressing 1 with juices expressed from parsley and watercress, using one-half as much parsley as watercress. To obtain coloring, break greens in pieces, pound in a mortar until thoroughly macerated, then squeeze through cheese-cloth. Lobster coral, rubbed through a fine sieve, added to Mayonnaise, makes Red Mayonnaise.

#### Potato Mayonnaise

Very small baked potato
1 teaspoon mustard
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon powdered sugar
2 tablespoons vinegar
¾ cup olive oil

Remove and mash the inside of potato. Add mustard, salt, and powdered sugar; add one tablespoon vinegar, and rub mixture through a fine sieve. Add slowly oil and remaining vinegar. By the taste one would hardly realize eggs were not used in the making.

### SALADS

#### Dressed Lettuce

Prepare lettuce as directed on page 294. Serve with French Dressing.

#### Lettuce and Cucumber Salad

Place a chapon in bottom of salad bowl. Wash, drain, and dry one head lettuce, arrange in bowl, and place between leaves one cucumber cut in thin slices. Serve with French Dressing.

#### Lettuce and Radish Salad

Prepare and arrange as for Dressed Lettuce. Place between leaves six radishes which have been washed, scraped, and cut in thin slices. Garnish with round radishes cut 328to represent tulips. See page 299. Serve with French Dressing.

#### Lettuce and Tomato Salad

Peel and chill three tomatoes. Cut in halves crosswise, arrange each half on a lettuce leaf. Garnish with Mayonnaise Dressing forced through a pastry bag and tube. If tomatoes are small, cut in quarters, and allow one tomato to each lettuce leaf.

#### Dressed Watercress

Wash, remove roots, drain, and chill watercress. Arrange in salad dish, and serve with French Dressing.

#### Cucumber Salad

Remove thick slices from both ends of a cucumber, cut off a thick paring, and with a sharp-pointed knife cut five parallel grooves lengthwise of cucumber at equal distances; then cut in thin parallel slices crosswise, keeping cucumber in its original shape. Arrange on lettuce leaves, and pour over Parisian French Dressing. Serve with fish course.

#### Watercress and Cucumber Salad

Prepare watercress and add one cucumber, pared, chilled, and cut in one-half inch dice. Serve with French Dressing.

#### Cucumber and Tomato Salad

Arrange sliced tomatoes on a bed of lettuce leaves. Pile on each slice, cucumber cubes cut one-half inch square. Serve with French or Mayonnaise Dressing.

#### Cucumber Cups with Lettuce

Pare cucumbers, cut in quarters crosswise, remove centres from pieces, arrange on lettuce leaves, and fill cups with Sauce Tartare (see p. 277).

#### Cucumber Baskets

Select three long, regular-shaped cucumbers; cut a piece from both the stem and blossom end of each; then cut in halves crosswise. Cut two pieces from each section, leaving remaining piece in shape of basket with handle. Remove 329pulp and seeds, in sufficiently large pieces to cut in cubes for refilling one-half the baskets, the remaining half being filled with pieces of tomatoes. Arrange baskets on lettuce leaves, alternating the fillings, and pour over French Dressing.

#### Dressed Celery

Wash, scrape, and cut stalks of celery in thin slices. Mix with Cream Dressing I.

#### Celery and Cabbage Salad

Remove outside leaves from a small solid white cabbage, and cut off stalk close to leaves. Cut out centre, and with a sharp knife shred finely. Let stand one hour in cold or ice water. Drain, wring in double cheese-cloth, to make as dry as possible. Mix with equal parts celery cut in small pieces. Moisten with Cream Dressing and refill cabbage. Arrange on a folded napkin and garnish with celery tips and parsley between folds of napkin and around top of cabbage.

#### Asparagus Salad

Drain and rinse stalks of canned asparagus. Cut rings from a bright red pepper one-third inch wide. Place three or four stalks in each ring. Arrange on lettuce leaves and serve with French Dressing, to which has been added one-half tablespoon tomato catsup.

#### Corn Salad

Drain one can corn and season with mustard and onion juice. Marinate with French Dressing, let stand one hour, then drain. Arrange on a bed of lettuce or chiccory.

#### String Bean Salad

Marinate two cups cold string beans with French Dressing. Add one teaspoon finely cut chives. Pile in centre of salad dish and arrange around base thin slices of radishes overlapping one another. Garnish top with radish cut to represent a tulip.

#### Potato Salad I

Cut cold boiled potatoes in one-half inch cubes. Sprinkle four cupfuls with one-half tablespoon salt and one-fourth 330teaspoon pepper. Add four tablespoons oil and mix thoroughly; then add two tablespoons vinegar. A few drops of onion juice may be added, or one-half tablespoon chives finely cut. Arrange in a mound and garnish with whites and yolks of two “hard-boiled” eggs, cold boiled red beets, and parsley. Chop whites and arrange on one-fourth of the mound; chop beets finely, mix with one tablespoon vinegar, and let stand fifteen minutes; then arrange on fourths of mounds next to whites. Arrange on remaining fourth of mound yolks chopped or forced through a potato ricer. Put small sprigs of parsley in lines dividing beets from eggs; also garnish with parsley at base.

#### Potato Salad II

Mix two cups cold boiled riced potatoes and one cup pecan nut meats broken in pieces. Marinate with French Dressing, and arrange on a bed of watercress.

#### Hot Potato Salad

Wash six medium-sized potatoes, and cook in boiling salted water until soft. Cool, remove skins, and cut in very thin slices. Cover bottom of baking-dish with potatoes, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with finely chopped celery, then with finely chopped parsley. Mix two tablespoons each tarragon and cider vinegar and four tablespoons olive oil, and add one slice lemon cut one-third inch thick. Bring to boiling-point, pour over potatoes, cover, and let stand in oven until thoroughly warmed.

#### Potato and Celery Salad

To two cups boiled potatoes cut in one-half inch cubes add one-half cup finely cut celery and a medium-sized apple, pared, cut in eighths, then eighths cut in thin slices. Marinate with French Dressing. Arrange in a mound and garnish with celery tip and sections of bright red apple.

#### Bolivia Salad

Cut cold boiled potatoes in one-half inch cubes; there should be one and one-half cups. Add three “hard-boiled” eggs finely chopped, one and one-half tablespoons finely chopped red peppers, and one-half tablespoon chopped chives. Pour over Cream Dressing I (see p. 324) and serve in nests of lettuce leaves.

Asparagus Salad, Individual Service.—Page 329.

Berkshire Salad in Boxes.—Page 345.

Egg Salad.—Page 336.

Pear Salad.—Page 340.

331

#### Lettuce Salad

Wash one head romaine and cut in pieces, using scissors. Mix two cups cold riced potatoes, one-half pound white mushroom caps peeled and cut in eighths, and one pound Brazil nut meats (from which skins have been removed) cut in pieces. Moisten with French Dressing, made by allowing one-third tarragon vinegar to two-thirds olive oil. Arrange on salad dish, surround with romaine, and garnish with three peeled mushroom caps and six Brazil nut meats.

#### Macédoine Salad

Marinate separately cold cooked cauliflower, peas, and carrots cut in small cubes, and outer stalks of celery finely cut. Arrange peas and carrots in alternate piles in centre of a salad dish. Pile cauliflower on top. Arrange celery in four piles at equal distances. At top of each pile place a small gherkin cut lengthwise in very thin slices, beginning at blossom end and cutting nearly to stem end. Open slices to represent a fan. Place between piles of celery a slice of tomato.

Almost any cold cooked vegetables on hand may be used for a Macédoine Salad, and if care is taken in arrangement, they make a very attractive dish.

#### Russian Salad

Mix one cup each cold cooked carrot cubes and potato cubes, one cup cold cooked peas, and one cup cold cooked beans, and marinate with French Dressing. Arrange on lettuce leaves in four sections, and cover each section with Mayonnaise Dressing. Garnish two sections with small pieces of smoked salmon, one section with finely chopped whites of “hard boiled” eggs, and one section with yolks of “hard-boiled” eggs forced through a strainer. Put small sprigs of parsley or shrimps in lines dividing sections.

332

#### Tomatoes Stuffed with Pineapple

Peel medium-sized tomatoes. Remove thin slice from top of each, and take out seeds and some of pulp. Sprinkle inside with salt, invert, and let stand one-half hour. Fill tomatoes with fresh pineapple cut in small cubes or shredded, and nut meats, using two-thirds pineapple and one-third nut meats. Mix with Mayonnaise Dressing, garnish with Mayonnaise, halves of nut meats, and slices cut from tops cut square. Serve on a bed of lettuce leaves.

#### Stuffed Tomato Salad I

Peel medium-sized tomatoes. Remove thin slice from top of each and take out seeds and some of pulp. Sprinkle inside with salt, invert, and let stand one-half hour. Fill tomatoes with cucumbers cut in small cubes and mixed with Mayonnaise Dressing. Arrange on lettuce leaves, and garnish top of each with Mayonnaise Dressing forced through a pastry bag and tube.

#### Stuffed Tomato Salad II

Prepare tomatoes same as for Tomatoes Stuffed with Pineapple. Refill with finely cut celery and apple, using equal parts. Serve with Mayonnaise, and garnish with shredded lettuce.

#### Stuffed Tomato Salad (German Style)

Prepare tomatoes same as Tomatoes Stuffed with Pineapple. Shred finely one-half a cabbage. Let stand two hours in salted water, allowing two tablespoons salt to one quart water. Cook slowly thirty minutes one-half cup each cold water and vinegar, with a bit of bay leaf, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, one-fourth teaspoon mustard seed, and six cloves. Strain, and pour over cabbage drained from salt water. Let stand two hours, again drain, and refill tomatoes.

#### Tomato and Horseradish Salad

Peel and chill tomatoes, cut in halves crosswise, arrange on lettuce leaves, and garnish with Horseradish Sauce I.

333

#### Hindoo Salad

Arrange four slices tomato on a bed of shredded lettuce. On two of the slices pile shaved celery, on the opposite slices, finely cut watercress. Garnish with small pieces of tomato shaped with circular cutter, and serve with French Dressing.

#### Tomato Ciboulettes

Remove skins from four small tomatoes, and cut in halves crosswise. Cover with Mayonnaise, and sprinkle with finely chopped chives. Serve on lettuce leaves.

#### Tomato and Watercress Salad

Peel and chill large tomatoes, cut in slices one-third inch thick, and slices in strips one-third inch wide. Arrange on a flat dish to represent lattice work, and fill in the spaces with watercress. Serve with French Dressing.

#### Tomato and Cucumber Salad

Arrange alternate slices of tomato and cucumber until six slices have been piled one on top of another. Place on lettuce leaves, garnish with strips of red and green peppers. Serve with French and Mayonnaise Dressing. Remove seeds from peppers and parboil two minutes before using.

#### Salad Chiffonade

Cook two green peppers in boiling water one minute; cool, and shred. Shred one head of romaine, remove pulp from one large grape fruit, and cut three small ripe tomatoes in quarters lengthwise. Arrange in salad dish and serve with French Dressing.

#### Wiersbick’s Salad

Peel small tomatoes of uniform size and scoop out a portion of centres. Arrange in nests of lettuce leaves and garnish top of each with a slice of cucumber, slice of truffle cut in fancy shape, and ring of green pepper. Serve with the following dressing:

Mix three tablespoons Louit Frères mustard, one-fourth teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon paprika, one tablespoon 334vinegar, and one-half teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce; then add slowly, while stirring constantly, one-half cup olive oil.

#### Tomato and Cheese Salad

Peel six medium-sized tomatoes, chill, and scoop out a small quantity of pulp from the centre of each. Fill cavities, using equal parts of Roquefort and Neufchâtel cheese worked together and moistened with French Dressing. Arrange on lettuce leaves and serve with French Dressing.

#### Tomato Jelly Salad

To one can stewed and strained tomatoes add one teaspoon each of salt and powdered sugar, and two-thirds box gelatine which has soaked fifteen minutes in one-half cup cold water. Pour into small cups, and chill. Run a knife around inside of moulds, so that when taken out shapes may have a rough surface, suggesting a fresh tomato. Place on lettuce leaves and garnish top of each with Mayonnaise Dressing.

#### Frozen Tomato Salad

Open one quart can tomatoes, turn from can, and let stand one hour that they may be reoxygenated. Add three tablespoons sugar, and season highly with salt and cayenne; then rub through a sieve. Turn into one-half pound breakfast-cocoa boxes, cover tightly, pack in salt and ice, using equal parts, and let stand three hours. Remove from mould, arrange on lettuce leaves, and serve with Mayonnaise Dressing.

#### Salad à la Russe

Peel six tomatoes, remove thin slices from top of each, and take out seeds and pulp. Sprinkle inside with salt, invert, and let stand one-half hour. Place seeds and pulp removed from tomatoes in a strainer to drain. Mix one-third cup cucumbers cut in dice, one-third cup cold cooked peas, one-fourth cup pickles finely chopped, one-third cup tomato pulp, and two tablespoons capers. Season with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Put in a cheese-cloth and squeeze; then add one-half cup cold cooked chicken cut in very small 335dice. Mix with Mayonnaise Dressing, refill tomatoes, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, and place each on a lettuce leaf.

#### Spinach Salad

Pick over, wash, and cook one-half peck spinach. Drain, and chop finely. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, and add one tablespoon melted butter. Butter slightly small tin moulds and pack solidly with mixture. Chill, remove from moulds, and arrange on thin slices of cold boiled tongue cut in circular pieces. Garnish base of each with a wreath of parsley, and serve on top of each Sauce Tartare.

#### Moulded Russian Salad

Reduce strong consommé so that when cold it will be jelly-like in consistency. Set individual moulds in pan of ice-water, pour in consommé one-fourth inch deep; when firm, decorate bottom and sides of moulds with cold cooked carrots, beets and potatoes cut in fancy shapes. Add consommé to cover vegetables, and as soon as firm fill moulds two-thirds full of any cooked vegetable that may be at hand. Add consommé by spoonfuls, allowing it to become firm between the additions, and put in enough to cover vegetables. Chill thoroughly, remove from moulds, and arrange on lettuce leaves. Serve with Mayonnaise Dressing.

#### Mexican Jelly

Peel four large cucumbers and cut in thin slices. Put in saucepan with one cup cold water, bring to boiling-point, and cook slowly until soft; then force through a purée strainer. Add two and one-half tablespoons granulated gelatine dissolved in three-fourths cup boiling water, few drops onion juice, one tablespoon vinegar, few grains cayenne, and salt and pepper to taste. Color with leaf green, strain through cheese-cloth, and mould same as Fruit Chartreuse (see p. 423). After removing small mould fill space with Tomato Mayonnaise. Garnish sides of mould with thin slices of cucumber shaped with a small round fluted cutter, and on the centre of each slice place a circular piece of truffle. Garnish around base of mould with small tomatoes peeled, chilled, and cut in halves crosswise. On each slice of tomato 336place a circular fluted slice of cucumber, and over all a circular piece of truffle. Serve with

Tomato Mayonnaise. Color mayonnaise red with tomato purée.

#### Egg Salad I

Cut six “hard-boiled” eggs in halves crosswise, keeping whites in pairs. Remove yolks, and mash or put through a potato ricer. Add slowly enough Oil Dressing II to moisten. Make into balls the size of original yolks and refill whites. Arrange on a bed of lettuce, and pour Oil Dressing No. II around eggs.

#### Egg Salad II

Cut four “hard-boiled” eggs in halves crosswise in such a way that tops of halves may be cut in small points. Remove yolks, mash, and add an equal amount of finely chopped cooked chicken. Moisten with Oil Dressing I, shape in balls size of original yolks, and refill whites. Arrange on lettuce leaves, garnish with radishes cut in fancy shapes, and serve with Oil Dressing I.

#### Lenten Salad

Separate yolks and whites of four “hard-boiled” eggs. Chop whites finely, marinate with French Dressing, and arrange on lettuce leaves. Force yolks through a potato ricer and pile on the centre of whites. Serve with French Dressing.

#### Crackers and Cheese

Mash a cream cheese, season, and shape in balls, then flatten balls, and serve on butter-thin crackers.

Note. Cream cheese is very acceptable served with zephyrettes or butter-thins and Bar-le-Duc currants.

#### Cottage Cheese I

Heat one quart sour milk to 100° F., and turn into a strainer lined with cheese-cloth. Pour over one quart hot water, and as soon as water has drained through, pour over another quart; then repeat. Gather cheese-cloth around curd to form a bag and let hang until curd is free from 337whey. Moisten with melted butter and heavy cream, and add salt to taste. Shape into small balls.

#### Cottage Cheese II

Heat one quart sweet milk to 100° F., and add one junket tablet reduced to a powder. Let stand in warm place until set. Beat with a fork to break curd, turn into a bag made of cheese-cloth, and let hang until whey has drained from curd; then proceed as with Cottage Cheese I.

#### Cheese Salad

Arrange one head lettuce on salad dish, sprinkle with Edam cheese broken in small pieces, and pour over French Dressing.

#### Neufchâtel Salad I

Cut cheese in dice, arrange on lettuce leaves, and garnish with radishes. Serve with French Dressing.

#### Neufchâtel Salad II

Mash one Neufchâtel cheese and moisten with milk or cream. Shape into forms the size of robins’ eggs. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, which has been dried. Arrange in nests of lettuce leaves, and garnish with radishes. Serve with French Dressing.

#### Cheese and Olive Salad

Mash a cream cheese, moisten with cream, and season with salt and cayenne. Add six olives finely chopped, lettuce finely cut, and one-half a can pimento cut in strips. Press in original shape of cheese and let stand two hours. Cut in slices, separate in pieces, and serve on lettuce leaves with Mayonnaise Dressing.

#### Cheese and Currant Salad

Mash a cream cheese and mix with finely chopped lettuce. Shape in balls, arrange on lettuce leaves, pour over French Dressing, and over all Bar-le-Duc currants.

#### East India Salad

Work two ten cent cream cheeses until smooth. Moisten with milk and cream, using equal parts. Add one-half cup 338grated Young America cheese, one cup whipped cream, and three-fourths tablespoon granulated gelatine soaked in one tablespoon cold water and dissolved in one tablespoon boiling water. Season highly with salt and paprika, and turn into a border mould. Chill, remove from mould, arrange on lettuce leaves, fill centre with lettuce leaves, and serve with Curry Dressing (see p. 324).

#### Nut Salad

Mix one cup chopped English walnut meat and two cups shredded lettuce. Arrange on lettuce leaves and garnish with Mayonnaise Dressing.

#### Nut and Celery Salad I

Mix equal parts of English walnut or pecan nut meat cut in pieces, and celery cut in small pieces. Marinate with French Dressing. Serve with a border of shredded lettuce.

#### Nut and Celery Salad II

Mix one and one-half cups finely cut celery, one cup pecan nut meats broken in pieces, and one cup shredded cabbage. Moisten with Cream Dressing, and serve in a salad bowl made of a small white cabbage.

#### Banana Salad

Remove one section of skin from each of four bananas. Take out fruit, scrape, and cut fruit from one banana in thin slices, fruit from other three bananas in one-half inch cubes. Marinate cubes with French Dressing. Refill skins and garnish each with slices of banana. Stack around a mound of lettuce leaves.

#### Orange Salad

Cut five thin-skinned sour oranges in very thin slices, and slices in quarters. Marinate with a dressing made by mixing one-third cup olive oil, one and one-half tablespoons each lemon juice and vinegar, one-third teaspoon salt, one-fourth teaspoon paprika, and a few grains mustard. Serve on a bed of watercress.

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#### Orange Mint Salad

Remove pulp from four large oranges, by cutting fruit in halves crosswise and using a spoon. Sprinkle with two tablespoons powdered sugar, and add two tablespoons finely chopped mint, and one tablespoon each lemon juice and Sherry wine. Chill thoroughly, serve in glasses, and garnish each with a sprig of mint. Should the oranges be very juicy, pour off a portion of the juice before turning the mixture into glasses.

#### French Fruit Salad

2 oranges
3 bananas
½ lb. Malaga grapes
12 English walnut meats
1 head lettuce
French Dressing

Peel oranges, and remove pulp separately from each section. Peel bananas, and cut in one-fourth inch slices. Remove skins and seeds from grapes. Break walnut meats in pieces. Mix prepared ingredients and arrange on lettuce leaves. Serve with French Dressing.

#### Hungarian Salad

Mix equal parts shredded fresh pineapple, bananas cut in pieces, and sections of tangerines, and marinate with French dressing. Fill banana skins with mixture, sprinkle generously with paprika, and arrange on lettuce leaves.

#### Waldorf Salad

Mix equal quantities of finely cut apple and celery, and moisten with Mayonnaise Dressing. Garnish with curled celery and canned pimentoes cut in strips or fancy shapes. An attractive way of serving this salad is to remove tops from red or green apples, scoop out inside pulp, leaving just enough adhering to skin to keep apples in shape. Refill shells thus made with the salad, replace tops, and serve on lettuce leaves.

#### Malaga Salad

Remove skins and seeds from white grapes; add an equal quantity of English walnut meats, blanched and broken in 340pieces. Marinate with French Dressing. Serve on lettuce leaves and garnish with Maraschino cherries.

#### Brazilian Salad

Remove skin and seeds from white grapes and cut in halves lengthwise. Add an equal quantity of shredded fresh pineapple, apples pared, cored, and cut in small pieces, and celery cut in small pieces; then add one-fourth the quantity of Brazil nuts broken in pieces. Mix thoroughly, and season with lemon juice. Moisten with Cream Mayonnaise Dressing (see p. 327).

#### De John’s Salad

Pare six Bartlett pears, care being taken not to remove stems. Cut in thin slices, and serve in original shapes on lettuce leaves. Serve with French Dressing.

#### Pear Salad

Wipe, pare, and cut pears in eighths lengthwise; then remove seeds. Arrange on lettuce leaves, pour over French dressing, and garnish with ribbons of red pepper. See Canned Red Peppers p. 581.

#### Game Salad

Drain the syrup from one can peaches. Arrange halves of fruit on lettuce leaves, and pour over all a dressing made by mixing two teaspoons sugar, one teaspoon celery salt, one-fourth teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, a few grains cayenne, five drops Tabasco, and adding gradually four tablespoons olive oil and two tablespoons fresh lime juice. Use fresh fruit when in season.

#### Pepper and Grape Fruit Salad

Cut slices from stem ends of six green peppers, and remove seeds. Refill with grape fruit pulp, finely cut celery, and English walnut meats broken in pieces, allowing twice as much grape fruit as celery, and two nut meats to each pepper. Arrange on chicory or lettuce leaves, and serve with Mayonnaise Dressing.

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#### Grape Fruit and Celery Salad

Cut medium-sized grape fruits in thirds lengthwise. Remove the pulp, and add to it an equal quantity of finely cut celery. Refill sections with mixture, mask with Mayonnaise Dressing, and garnish with celery tips or curled celery and canned pimentoes cut in strips.

#### Monte Carlo Salad

Remove pulp from four large grape fruits, and drain. Add an equal quantity of finely cut celery, and apple cut in small pieces. Moisten with Mayonnaise, pile on a shallow salad dish, arrange around a border of lettuce leaves, and mask with Mayonnaise. Outline, using green Mayonnaise, four oblongs to represent playing cards, and denote spots on cards by canned pimentoes or truffles; pimentoes cut in shapes of hearts and diamonds, truffles cut in shapes of spades and clubs. Garnish with cold cooked carrot and turnip, shaped with a small round cutter to suggest gold and silver coin.

#### Salmon Salad

Flake remnants of cold boiled salmon. Mix with French Mayonnaise, or Cream Dressing. Arrange on nests of lettuce leaves. Garnish with the yolk of a “hard-boiled” egg forced through a potato ricer, and white of egg cut in strips.

#### Shrimp Salad

Remove shrimps from can, cover with cold or ice water, and let stand twenty minutes. Drain, dry between towels, remove intestinal veins, and break in pieces, reserving six of the finest. Moisten with Cream Dressing II, and arrange on nests of lettuce leaves. Put a spoonful of dressing on each, and garnish with a whole shrimp, capers, and an olive cut in quarters.

#### Sardine Salad

Remove skin and bones from sardines, and mix with an equal quantity of the mashed yolks of “hard-boiled” eggs. Arrange in nests of lettuce leaves and serve with Mayonnaise Dressing.

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#### Lobster Salad I

Remove lobster meat from shell, cut in one-half inch cubes, and marinate with a French Dressing. Mix with a small quantity of Mayonnaise Dressing and arrange in nests of lettuce leaves. Put a spoonful of Mayonnaise on each, and sprinkle with lobster coral rubbed through a fine sieve. Garnish with small lobster claws around outside of dish. Cream Dressing I or II may be used in place of Mayonnaise Dressing.

#### Lobster Salad II

Prepare lobster as for Lobster Salad I. Add an equal quantity of celery cut in small pieces, kept one hour in cold or ice water, then drained and dried in a towel. Moisten with any cream or oil dressing. Arrange on a salad dish, pile slightly in centre, cover with dressing, sprinkle with lobster coral forced through a fine sieve, and garnish with a border of curled celery.

To Curl Celery. Cut thick stalks of celery in two-inch pieces. With a sharp knife, beginning at outside of stalks, make five cuts parallel with each other, extending one-third the length of pieces. Make six cuts at right angles to cuts already made. Put pieces in cold or ice water and let stand over night or for several hours, when they will curl back and celery will be found very crisp. Both ends of celery may be curled if one cares to take the trouble.

#### Lobster Salad III

Remove large claws and split a lobster in two lengthwise by beginning the cut on inside of tail end and cutting through entire length of tail and body. Open lobster, remove tail meat, liver, and coral, and set aside. Discard intestinal vein, stomach, and fat, and wipe inside thoroughly with cloth wrung out of cold water. Body meat and small claws are left on shell. Remove meat from upper parts of large claws and cut off (using scissors or can opener) one-half the shell from lower parts, taking out meat and leaving the parts in suitable condition to refill. Cut lobster meat in one-half inch cubes and mix with an equal quantity of finely cut celery. Season with salt, pepper, and vinegar, and moisten with Mayonnaise Dressing. Refill tail, body, and under half of large claw shells. Mix liver and coral, rub through a sieve, add one tablespoon Mayonnaise Dressing and a few drops anchovy essence with enough more Mayonnaise Dressing to cover lobster already in shell. Arrange on a bed of lettuce leaves.

Mexican Jelly.—Page 335.

Lobster Salad III.—Page 342.

Oyster Crabs a la Newburg; Individual Service.—Page 357.

Sweetbread Ramequins.—Page 371.

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#### Fish Salad with Cucumbers

Season one and one-half cups cold cooked flaked halibut, haddock, or cod, with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice. Cover, and let stand one hour. To Cream Dressing II (see p. 324) add one-third tablespoon granulated gelatine soaked in one and one-half tablespoons cold water. As soon as dressing begins to thicken, add one-half cup heavy cream beaten until stiff, then fold in the fish. Turn into individual moulds, chill, remove from moulds, arrange on lettuce leaves, garnish each with a thin slice of cucumber, and serve with

Cucumber Sauce. Pare two cucumbers, chop, drain off most of liquor, and season with salt, pepper, and vinegar.

#### Crab and Tomato Salad

Remove meat from hard-shelled crabs; there should be one cup. Add two-thirds cup celery, cut in small pieces, and six small tomatoes peeled, chilled, and cut in quarters. Moisten with Mayonnaise. Serve on lettuce leaves, and garnish with Mayonnaise, curled celery, and small pieces of tomato.

#### Scallop and Tomato Salad

Clean one pint scallops, parboil, and drain. Add juice of one lemon, cover, and let stand one hour. Drain, dry between towels, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and stale bread crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Cool, cut in halves, marinate with dressing, and serve garnished with sliced tomatoes and watercress.

Dressing. Mix one teaspoon finely chopped shallot, three-fourths teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon paprika, two tablespoons lemon juice, and four tablespoons olive oil.

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#### Salmon à la Martin, Ravigôte Mayonnaise

Drain one can salmon, rinse, dry, and separate in flakes. Moisten with Ravigôte Mayonnaise, arrange on a bed of lettuce, mask with mayonnaise, and garnish with canned pimentoes cut in triangles, and truffles cut in fancy shapes.

Ravigôte Mayonnaise. Mix two tablespoons cooked spinach, one tablespoon capers, one-half shallot finely chopped, three anchovies, one-third cup parsley, and one-half cup watercress. Pound in mortar until thoroughly macerated, then force through a very fine strainer. Add to one-half the recipe for Mayonnaise Dressing I (see p. 326).

#### Oyster and Grape Fruit Salad

Parboil one and one-half pints oysters, drain, cool, and remove tough muscles. Cut three grape fruits in halves crosswise, remove pulp, and drain. Mix oysters with pulp, and season with six tablespoons tomato catsup, four tablespoons grape fruit juice, one tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce, eight drops Tabasco sauce, and one-half teaspoon salt. Refill grape fruit skins with mixture, and garnish with curled celery.

#### Chicken Salad I

Cut cold boiled fowl or remnants of roast chicken in one-half inch cubes, and marinate with French Dressing. Add an equal quantity of celery, washed, scraped, cut in small pieces, chilled in cold or ice-water, drained, and dried in a towel. Just before serving moisten with Cream, Oil, or Mayonnaise Dressing. Mound on a salad dish, and garnish with yolks of “hard-boiled” eggs forced through a potato ricer, capers, and celery tips.

#### Chicken Salad II

Cut cold boiled fowl or remnants of roast chicken in one-half inch dice. To two cups add one and one-half cups celery cut in small pieces, and moisten with Cream Dressing II. Mound on a salad dish, cover with dressing, and garnish with capers, thin slices cut from small pickles, and curled celery.

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#### Individual Chicken Salads in Aspic

Cover bottom of individual moulds set in ice-water with aspic jelly mixture. When jelly is firm decorate with yolks and whites of “hard-boiled” eggs cooked as for Harlequin Slices (see p. 147) and truffles cut in fancy shapes, or pistachio nuts blanched and cut in halves. Cover decorations with aspic mixture, being careful not to disarrange the designs. Finely chop cold cooked fowl (preferably breast meat), moisten with Mayonnaise to which is added a small quantity of dissolved granulated gelatine, shape in balls, put a ball in each mould, and add gradually aspic mixture to fill moulds. Chill thoroughly, remove to lettuce leaves, and arrange around a dish of Mayonnaise Dressing.

#### Swiss Salad

Mix one cup cold cooked chicken cut in cubes, one cucumber pared and cut in cubes, one cup chopped English walnut meats, and one cup French peas. Marinate with French Dressing, arrange on serving dish, and garnish with Mayonnaise Dressing.

#### Nile Salad

Cut cold boiled or roasted chicken in cubes (there should be one and one-half cups). Put one-half cup English walnut meats in pan, sprinkle sparingly with salt, and add three-fourths tablespoon butter. Cook in a slow oven until browned and thoroughly heated, stirring occasionally; remove from oven and break in pieces.

Mix chicken and nuts and marinate with French Dressing. Add three-fourths cup celery cut in small pieces. Arrange on a bed of lettuce, and mask with Ravigôte Mayonnaise (see p. 344).

#### Berkshire Salad in Boxes

Marinate one cup cold boiled fowl cut into dice and one cup cooked French chestnuts broken in pieces with French Dressing. Add one grated red pepper from which seeds have been removed, one cup celery cut into small pieces, and Mayonnaise to moisten. Trim crackers (four inches 346long by one inch wide, slightly salted) at ends, using a sharp knife; arrange on plate in form of box, keep in place with red ribbon one-half inch wide, and fasten at one corner by tying ribbon in a bow. Garnish opposite corner with a sprig of holly berries. Line box with lettuce leaves, put in a spoonful of salad, and mask with Mayonnaise. Any colored ribbon may be used, and flowers substituted for berries.

#### Chicken and Oyster Salad

Clean, parboil, and drain one pint oysters. Remove tough muscles, and mix soft parts with an equal quantity of cold boiled fowl cut in one-half inch dice. Moisten with any salad dressing, and serve on a bed of lettuce leaves.

#### Sweetbread and Cucumber Salad I

Parboil a pair of sweetbreads twenty minutes; drain, cool, and cut in one-half inch cubes. Mix with an equal quantity of cucumber cut in one-half inch dice. Season with salt and pepper, and moisten with German Dressing. Arrange in nests of lettuce leaves or in cucumber cups, and garnish with watercress. To prepare cucumber cups, pare cucumbers, remove thick slices from each end, and cut in halves crosswise. Take out centres, put cups in cold water, and let stand until crisp; drain, and dry for refilling. Small cucumbers may be pared, cut in halves lengthwise, centres removed, and cut pointed at ends to represent a boat.

#### Sweetbread and Cucumber Salad II

Parboil a sweetbread, adding to water a bit of bay leaf, a slice of onion, and a blade of mace. Cool, and cut in small cubes; there should be three-fourths cup. Add an equal quantity of cucumber cubes. Beat one-half cup thick cream until stiff; add one-fourth tablespoon granulated gelatine soaked in one-half tablespoon cold water and dissolved in one and one-half tablespoons boiling water, then add one and one-half tablespoons vinegar. Add sweetbread and cucumber, mould, and chill. Arrange on lettuce leaves, and serve with French Dressing.

347

#### Sweetbread and Celery Salad

Mix equal parts of parboiled sweetbreads cut in one-half inch cubes and celery finely cut. Moisten with Cream Dressing, and arrange on lettuce leaves.

#### Harvard Salad

Make lemon baskets, following directions for Orange Baskets (see p. 429). With a small wooden skewer make an incision in centre of each handle and insert a small sprig of parsley. Fill baskets with equal parts of cold cooked sweetbread and cucumber cut in small cubes, and one-fourth the quantity of finely cut celery, moistened with Cream Dressing II (see p. 324). Pare round red radishes as thinly as possible and finely chop parings. Smooth top of baskets and cover with dressing. Sprinkle top of one-half the baskets with chopped parings, the remaining half with finely chopped parsley. Arrange red and green baskets alternately on serving dish, and garnish with watercress.

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## CHAPTER XXII
ENTRÉES

### Batters and Fritters

### Batter I

1 cup bread flour
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
⅔ cup milk
2 eggs

Mix flour, salt, and pepper. Add milk gradually, and eggs well beaten.

### Batter II

1 cup bread flour
1 tablespoon sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup water
½ tablespoon olive oil
White 1 egg

Mix flour, sugar, and salt. Add water gradually, then olive oil and white of egg beaten until stiff.

### Batter III

1⅓ cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup milk
1 egg

Mix and sift dry ingredients, add milk gradually, and egg well beaten.

### Batter IV

1 cup flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
3 tablespoons powdered sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
⅓ cup milk
1 egg

Mix and sift dry ingredients, add milk gradually, and egg well beaten.

349

### Batter V

1 cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup milk or water
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
1 tablespoon melted butter or olive oil

Mix salt and flour, add milk gradually, yolks of eggs beaten until thick, butter, and whites of eggs beaten until stiff.

### Apple Fritters I

2 medium-sized sour apples
Batter III
Powdered sugar

Pare, core, and cut apples in eighths, then cut eighths in slices, and stir into batter. Drop by spoonfuls and fry in deep fat (see Rules for Testing Fat, page 21). Drain on brown paper, and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve hot on a folded napkin.

### Apple Fritters II

2 medium-sized sour apples
Batter IV

Prepare and cook as Apple Fritters I.

### Apple Fritters III

Sour apples
Powdered sugar
Lemon juice
Batter II

Core, pare, and cut apples in one-third inch slices. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and few drops lemon juice; cover, and let stand one-half hour. Drain, dip pieces in batter, fry in deep fat, and drain. Arrange on a folded napkin in form of a circle, and serve with Sabyon or Hard Sauce.

### Banana Fritters I

4 bananas
Powdered sugar
½ tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons Sherry wine
Batter V

Remove skins from bananas. Scrape bananas, cut in halves lengthwise, and cut halves in two pieces crosswise. 350Sprinkle with powdered sugar, lemon juice, and wine; cover, and let stand thirty minutes; drain, dip in batter, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve on a folded napkin.

### Banana Fritters II

3 bananas
1 cup bread flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 tablespoon powdered sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ cup milk
1 egg
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Beat egg until light, add milk, and combine mixtures; then add lemon juice and banana fruit forced through a sieve. Drop by spoonfuls, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve with Lemon Sauce.

### Orange Fritters

Peel two oranges and separate into sections. Make an opening in each section just large enough to admit of passage for seeds, which should be removed. Dip sections in Batter II, III, IV, or V, and fry and serve same as other fritters.

### Fruit Fritters

Fresh peaches, apricots, or pears may be cut in pieces, dipped in batter, and fried same as other fritters. Canned fruits may be used, after draining from their syrup.

### Cauliflower Fritters

Cold cooked cauliflower
Batter V
Salt and pepper

Sprinkle pieces of cauliflower with salt and pepper and dip in Batter I or V. Fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

### Fried Celery

Celery cut in three-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
Batter I, III, or V

Parboil celery until soft, drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in batter, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with Tomato Sauce.

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### Sardines Fried in Batter

Drain fish and pour over boiling water to free from oil, then remove skins. Dip in Batter III, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with Hot Tartare Sauce.

### Tomato Fritters

1 can tomatoes
6 cloves
⅛ cup sugar
3 slices onion
1 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
¼ cup butter
½ cup corn-starch
1 egg

Cook first four ingredients twenty minutes, rub all through a sieve except seeds, and season with salt and pepper. Melt butter, and when bubbling, add corn-starch and tomato gradually; cook two minutes, then add egg slightly beaten. Pour into a buttered shallow tin, and cool. Turn on a board, cut in squares, diamonds, or strips. Roll in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

### Cherry Fritters

2 cups scalded milk
¼ cup corn-starch
¼ cup flour
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ cup cold milk
Yolks 3 eggs
½ cup Maraschino cherries, cut in halves

Mix corn-starch, flour, sugar, and salt. Dilute with cold milk and add beaten yolks; then add gradually to scalded milk and cook fifteen minutes in double boiler. Add cherries, pour into a buttered shallow tin, and cool. Turn on a board, cut in squares, dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve with Maraschino Sauce.

### Maraschino Sauce

⅔ cup boiling water
⅓ cup sugar
2 tablespoons corn-starch
¼ cup Maraschino cherries, cut in halves
½ cup Maraschino syrup
½ tablespoon butter

Mix sugar and corn-starch, add gradually to boiling water, stirring constantly. Boil five minutes, and add cherries, syrup, and butter.

352

### Farina Cakes with Jelly

2 cups scalded milk
½ cup farina (scant)
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1 egg

Mix farina, sugar, and salt, add to milk, and cook in double boiler twenty minutes, stirring constantly until mixture has thickened. Add egg slightly beaten, pour into a buttered shallow pan, and brush over with one egg slightly beaten and diluted with one tablespoon milk. Brown in a moderate oven. Cut in squares, and serve with a cube of jelly on each square.

### Gnocchi à la Romaine

¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
¼ cup corn-starch
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups scalded milk
Yolks 2 eggs
¾ cup grated cheese

Melt butter, and when bubbling, add flour, corn-starch, salt, and milk, gradually. Cook three minutes, stirring constantly. Add yolks of eggs slightly beaten, and one-half cup cheese. Pour into a buttered shallow pan, and cool. Turn on a board, cut in squares, diamonds, or strips. Place on a platter, sprinkle with remaining cheese, and brown in oven.

### Queen Fritters

¼ cup butter (scant)
½ cup boiling water
½ cup flour
2 eggs
Fruit preserve or marmalade

Put butter in small saucepan and pour on water. As soon as water again reaches boiling-point, add flour all at once and stir until mixture leaves sides of saucepan, cleaving to spoon. Remove from fire and add eggs unbeaten, one at a time, beating mixture thoroughly between addition of eggs. Drop by spoonfuls and fry in deep fat until well puffed and browned. Drain, make an opening, and fill with preserve or marmalade. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve on a folded napkin.

353

### Chocolate Fritters with Vanilla Sauce

Make Queen Fritters, fill with Chocolate Cream Filling, and serve with Vanilla Sauce; filling to be cold and sauce warm.

### Coffee Fritters, Coffee Cream Sauce

Cut stale bread in one-half inch slices, remove crusts, and cut slices in one-half inch strips. Mix three-fourths cup coffee infusion, two tablespoons sugar, one-fourth teaspoon salt, one egg slightly beaten, and one-fourth cup cream. Dip bread in mixture, crumbs, egg, and crumbs again. Fry in deep fat and drain. Serve with

Coffee Cream Sauce. Beat yolks three eggs slightly, add four tablespoons sugar and one-eighth teaspoon salt, then add gradually one cup coffee infusion. Cook in double boiler until mixture thickens. Cool, and fold in one-third cup heavy cream beaten until stiff.

### Sponge Fritters

2⅔ cups flour
⅓ cup sugar
⅞ cup scalded milk
⅓ yeast cake, dissolved in 2 tablespoons lukewarm water
⅓ cup melted butter
¼ teaspoon salt
2 eggs
Grated rind ½ lemon
Quince marmalade
Currant jelly

Make a sponge of one-half the flour, sugar, milk, and dissolved yeast cake; let rise to double its bulk. Add remaining ingredients and let rise again. Toss on a floured board, roll to one-fourth inch thickness, shape with a small biscuit-cutter (first dipped in flour), cover, and let rise on board. Take each piece and hollow in centre to form a nest. In one-half the pieces put one-half teaspoon of currant jelly and quince marmalade mixed in the proportion of one part jelly to two parts marmalade. Brush with milk edges of filled pieces. Cover with unfilled pieces and press edges closely together with fingers first dipped in flour. If this is not carefully done fritters will separate during frying. Fry in deep fat, drain on brown paper, and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

354

### Calf’s Brains Fritters

Clean brains, and cook twenty minutes in boiling water, to which is added one-half teaspoon salt, one tablespoon lemon juice, three cloves, two slices onion, and one-half bay leaf. Remove from range, and let stand in water until cold; drain, dry between towels, and separate into pieces. Make a batter of one-half cup flour, one teaspoon baking powder, one-fourth teaspoon salt, a few grains pepper, one egg well beaten, and one-fourth cup milk. Add brains, and drop mixture by spoonfuls into greased muffin rings, placed in a frying-pan in which there is a generous supply of hot lard. Cook on one side until well browned, turn, and cook other side. Arrange on serving dish and pour around Sauce Finiste (see p. 279).

### Clam Fritters

1 pint clams
2 eggs
⅓ cup milk
1⅓ cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
Salt
Pepper

Clean clams, drain from their liquor, and chop. Beat eggs until light, add milk and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder, then add chopped clams, and season highly with salt and pepper. Drop by spoonfuls, and fry in deep fat. Drain on brown paper, and serve at once on a folded napkin.

### Croquettes

Before making Croquettes, consult Rules for Testing Fat for Frying, page 21; Egging and Crumbing, page 22; Uses for Stale Bread, page 69; and Potato Croquettes, page 316.

### Banana Croquettes

Remove skins from bananas, scrape, using a silver knife to remove the astringent principle which lies close to skin, and cut in halves crosswise; then remove a slice from each end. Dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

355

### Cheese Croquettes

3 tablespoons butter
¼ cup flour
⅔ cup milk
Yolks 2 eggs
1 cup mild cheese, cut in very small cubes
½ cup grated Gruyère cheese
Salt and pepper
Few grains cayenne

Make a thick white sauce, using butter, flour, and milk, add yolks of eggs without first beating, and stir until well mixed; then add grated cheese. As soon as cheese melts, remove from fire, fold in cheese cubes, and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Spread in a shallow pan, and cool. Turn on a board, cut in small squares or strips, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve for a cheese course.

### Chestnut Croquettes

1 cup mashed French chestnuts
2 tablespoons thick cream
Yolks 2 eggs
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon vanilla

Mix ingredients in order given. Shape in balls, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

### Chestnut Roulettes

1 cup chestnut purée
2 eggs
Few drops onion juice
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons heavy cream
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains paprika

Mix ingredients in order given, cook two minutes, and cool. Shape a little larger than French chestnuts, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again. Fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

### Lenten Croquettes

Soak one-half cup lentils and one-fourth cup dried lima beans over night, in cold water to cover; drain, add three pints water, one-half small onion, one stalk celery, three slices carrot, and a sprig of parsley. Cook until lentils are soft, remove seasonings, drain, and rub through a sieve. To pulp add one-half cup stale bread crumbs, one egg slightly 356beaten, and salt and pepper to taste. Melt one tablespoon butter, add one tablespoon flour, and pour on gradually one-third cup hot cream; combine mixtures, and cool. Shape, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with Tomato Sauce I.

### Rice Croquettes with Jelly

½ cup rice
½ cup boiling water
1 cup scalded milk
½ teaspoon salt
Yolks 2 eggs
1 tablespoon butter

Wash rice, add to water with salt, cover, and steam until rice has absorbed water. Then add milk, stir lightly with a fork, cover, and steam until rice is soft. Remove from fire, add egg yolks and butter; spread on a shallow plate to cool. Shape in balls, roll in crumbs, then shape in form of nests. Dip in egg, again in crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Put a cube of jelly in each croquette. Arrange on a folded napkin, and garnish with parsley, or serve around game.

### Sweet Rice Croquettes

To rice croquette mixture add two tablespoons powdered sugar and grated rind one-half lemon. Shape in cylinder forms, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

### Rice and Tomato Croquettes

½ cup rice
¾ cup stock
½ can tomatoes
1 slice onion
1 slice carrot
1 sprig parsley
1 sprig thyme
2 cloves
¼ teaspoon peppercorns
1 teaspoon sugar
1 egg
¼ cup grated cheese
1 tablespoon butter
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Wash rice, and steam in stock until rice has absorbed stock; then add tomatoes which have been cooked twenty minutes with onion, carrot, parsley, thyme, cloves, peppercorns, and sugar, and then rubbed through a strainer. Remove from fire, add egg slightly beaten, cheese, butter, 357salt, and cayenne. Spread on a plate to cool. Shape in form of cylinders, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

### Oyster Crabs à la Newburg

1 cup oyster crabs
1 cup mushroom caps
⅓ cup Sherry wine
¼ cup butter
1 tablespoon flour
Salt
Cayenne
Nutmeg
¾ cup cream
Yolks two eggs
1 tablespoon brandy

Peel mushroom caps and break in pieces. Add oyster crabs and wine, cover, and let stand one hour. Melt butter, add first mixture, and cook eight minutes. Add flour, and cook two minutes. Season with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg; then add heavy cream. Just before serving add egg yolks, slightly beaten, and brandy.

### Oyster and Macaroni Croquettes

⅓ cup macaroni, broken in ½ inch pieces
1 pint oysters
1 cup Thick White Sauce
Few grains cayenne
Few grains mace
½ teaspoon lemon juice
¼ cup grated cheese

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until soft, drain in a colander, and pour over macaroni two cups cold water. Clean and parboil oysters, remove tough muscles, and cut soft parts in pieces. Reserve one-half cup oyster liquor and use in making Thick White Sauce in place of all milk. Mix macaroni and oysters, add Thick White Sauce and seasonings. Spread on a plate to cool. Shape, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

### Oysters à la Somerset

1 pint selected oysters
1 tablespoon chopped onion
2 tablespoons chopped mushrooms
3 tablespoons butter
⅓ cup oyster liquor
⅓ cup Chicken Stock
Salt
Pepper
Cayenne
4 tablespoons flour

Parboil and drain oysters. Reserve liquor, strain, and set aside for sauce. Cook onion and mushroom in butter 358five minutes, add flour, and pour on gradually oyster liquor and chicken stock. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Remove tough muscles from oysters, and discard. Shape oysters, cover with sauce, and cool on a plate covered with stale bread crumbs. Dip in egg and stale bread crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

### Salmon Croquettes

1¾ cups cold flaked salmon
1 cup Thick White Sauce
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Salt

Add sauce to salmon, then add seasonings. Spread on a plate to cool. Shape, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

### Salmon Cutlets

Mix equal parts of cold flaked salmon and hot mashed potatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Shape in form of cutlets, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain. Arrange in a circle, having cutlets overlap one another, on a folded napkin. Garnish with parsley.

### Lobster Croquettes

2 cups chopped lobster meat
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon mustard
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon lemon
1 cup Thick White Sauce

Add seasonings to lobster, then add Thick White Sauce. Cool, shape, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve with Tomato Cream Sauce.

### Lobster Cutlets

2 cups chopped lobster meat
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Few gratings nutmeg
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Yolk 1 egg
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1 cup Thick White Sauce

Mix ingredients in order given, and cool. Shape in form of cutlets, crumb, and fry same as croquettes. Make a cut at small end of each cutlet, and insert in each the tip end of 359a small claw. Stack around a mound of parsley. Serve with Sauce Tartare.

### Beef and Rice Croquettes

1 cup chopped beef (cut from top of round)
⅓ cup rice
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
Few grains cayenne
Cabbage
Tomato Sauce

Mix beef and rice, and add salt, pepper, and cayenne. Cook cabbage leaves two minutes in boiling water to cover. In each leaf put two tablespoons mixture, and fold leaf to enclose mixture. Cook one hour in Tomato Sauce.

Tomato Sauce. Brown four tablespoons butter, add five tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half cups each Brown Stock and stewed and strained tomatoes. Add one slice onion, one slice carrot, a bit of bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, four cloves, three-fourths teaspoon salt, one-fourth teaspoon pepper, and a few grains cayenne. Cook ten minutes, and strain.

### Lamb Croquettes

1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
2 tablespoons butter
¼ cup flour
1 cup stock
1 cup cold cooked lamb, cut in small cubes
⅔ cup boiled potato cubes
Salt and pepper
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley

Fry onion in butter five minutes, then remove onion. To butter add flour and stock, and cook two minutes. Add meat, potato, salt, and pepper. Simmer until meat and potato have absorbed sauce. Add parsley, and spread on a shallow dish to cool. Shape, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve with Tomato Sauce.

### Veal Croquettes

2 cups chopped cold cooked veal
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Few grains cayenne
Few drops onion juice
Yolk 1 egg
1 cup thick sauce made of White Soup Stock

Mix ingredients in order given. Cool, shape, crumb, and fry same as other croquettes.

360

### Chicken Croquettes I

1¾ cups chopped cold cooked fowl
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon celery salt
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Few drops onion juice
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1 cup Thick White Sauce

Mix ingredients in order given. Cool, shape, crumb, and fry same as other croquettes.

White meat of fowl absorbs more sauce than dark meat. This must be remembered if dark meat alone is used. Croquette mixtures should always be as soft as can be conveniently handled, when croquettes will be soft and creamy inside.

### Chicken Croquettes II

Clean and dress a four-pound fowl. Put into a kettle with six cups boiling water, seven slices carrot, two slices turnip, one small onion, one stalk celery, one bay leaf, and three sprigs thyme. Cook slowly until fowl is tender. Remove fowl; strain liquor, cool, and skim off fat. Make a thick sauce, using one-fourth cup butter, one-half cup flour, one cup chicken stock, and one-third cup cream. Remove meat from chicken, chop, and moisten with sauce. Season with salt, cayenne, and slight grating of nutmeg; then add one beaten egg, cool, shape, crumb, and fry same as other croquettes. Arrange around a mound of green peas, and serve with Cream Sauce or Wine Jelly.

### Chicken and Mushroom Croquettes

Make as Chicken Croquettes I, using one and one-third cups chicken meat and two-thirds cup chopped mushrooms.

### Maryland Croquettes

Season one cup chopped cold cooked fowl with salt, celery salt, cayenne, lemon juice, and onion juice; moisten with sauce, and cool. Parboil one pint selected oysters, drain, and cover each oyster with chicken mixture. Dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs; fry in deep fat, and drain.

Sauce. Melt one and one-half tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and gradually one-third cup oyster 361liquor and two tablespoons cream. Season with salt and cayenne.

### Lincoln Croquettes

Mix one cup each bread crumbs, walnut meats cut in pieces, and cold cooked chicken cut in cubes. Moisten with a sauce made by melting one and one-half tablespoons butter, adding one and one-half tablespoons flour, and pouring on gradually, while stirring constantly, one-half cup chicken stock. Season with salt, celery salt, paprika, nutmeg, and Sherry wine. Shape in balls, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with a sauce made of one-half chicken stock and one-half cream and flavored with Sherry wine.

### Cutlets of Sweetbreads à la Victoria

2 pairs parboiled sweetbreads
2 teaspoons lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Slight grating nutmeg
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1 egg
1 cup Thick White Sauce

Chop the sweetbreads, of which there should be two cups; if not enough, add chopped mushrooms to make two cups, then season. Add egg, slightly beaten, to sauce, and combine mixtures. Cool, shape, crumb, and fry. Make a cut in small end of each cutlet, and insert in each a piece of cold boiled macaroni one and one-half inches long. Serve with Allemande Sauce.

### Epigrams of Sweetbreads

Parboil a sweetbread, drain, place in a small mould, cover, and press with a weight. Cut in one-half inch slices, and spread with the following mixture: Fry one-third teaspoon finely chopped shallot in one and one-half tablespoons butter three minutes, add three tablespoons chopped mushrooms, and cook three minutes; then add two and one-half tablespoons flour, one-half cup stock, two tablespoons cream, one tablespoon Sherry wine, one egg yolk, and salt and pepper to taste. Cool, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain.

362

### Swedish Timbales

¾ cup flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
½ cup milk
1 egg
1 tablespoon olive oil

Mix dry ingredients, add milk gradually, and beaten egg; then add olive oil. Shape, using a hot timbale iron, fry in deep fat until crisp and brown; take from iron and invert on brown paper to drain.

To Heat Timbale Iron. Heat fat until nearly hot enough to fry uncooked mixtures. Put iron into hot fat, having fat deep enough to more than cover it, and let stand until heated. The only way of knowing when iron is of right temperature is to take it from fat, shake what fat may drip from it, lower in batter to three-fourths its depth, raise from batter, then immerse in hot fat. If batter does not cling to iron, or drops from iron as soon as immersed in fat, it is either too hot or not sufficiently heated.

To Form Timbales. Turn timbale batter into a cup. Lower hot iron into cup, taking care that batter covers iron to only three-fourths its depth. When immersed in fat, mixture will rise to top of iron, and when crisp and brown may be easily slipped off. If too much batter is used, in cooking it will rise over top of iron, and in order to remove timbale it must be cut around with a sharp knife close to top of iron. If the cases are soft rather than crisp, batter is too thick and must be diluted with milk.

Fill cases with Creamed Oysters, Chicken, Sweetbreads, or Chicken and Sweetbreads in combination with Mushrooms.

### Bunuelos

Use recipe for and fry same as Swedish Timbales, using a Bunuelos iron. Serve with cooked fruit and with or without whipped cream sweetened and flavored.

### Strawberry Baskets

Fry Swedish Timbales, making cases one inch deep. Fill with selected strawberries, sprinkled with powdered sugar. Serve as a first course at a ladies’ luncheon.

363

### Rice Timbales

Pack hot boiled rice in slightly buttered small tin moulds. Let stand in hot water ten minutes. Use as a garnish for curried meat, fricassee, or boiled fowl.

### Macaroni Timbales

Line slightly buttered Dario moulds with boiled macaroni. Cut strips the length of height of mould, and place closely together around inside of mould. Fill with Chicken, or Salmon Force meat. Put in a pan, half surround with hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with Lobster, Béchamel, or Hollandaise Sauce I.

### Spaghetti Timbales

Line bottom and sides of slightly buttered Dario moulds with long strips of boiled spaghetti coiled around the inside. Fill and bake same as Macaroni Timbales.

### Pimento Timbales

Line small timbale moulds with canned pimentoes. Fill with Chicken Timbale II mixture (see p. 366), and bake until firm. Remove from moulds, insert a sprig of parsley in top of each, and serve with

### Brown Mushroom Sauce

3 tablespoons butter
Few drops onion juice
3½ tablespoons flour
1 cup cream
½ lb. mushrooms
1 teaspoon beef extract
Salt
Paprika

Melt butter, add onion juice, and cook until slightly browned; then add flour and continue the browning. Pour on, gradually, while stirring constantly, the cream. Clean mushrooms, peal caps, cut in slices lengthwise, and sauté in butter five minutes. Break stems in pieces, cover with cold water, and cook slowly until liquor is reduced to one-third cup; then strain. Dissolve beef extract in mushroom liquor. Add to sauce, and season with salt and paprika. Just before serving, add sautéd caps.

364

### Halibut Timbales I

1 lb. halibut
⅓ cup thick cream
¾ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
1½ teaspoons lemon juice
Whites 3 eggs

Cook halibut in boiling salted water, drain, and rub through a sieve. Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice; add cream beaten until stiff, then beaten whites of eggs. Turn into small, slightly buttered moulds, put in a pan, half surround with hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Remove from moulds, arrange on a serving dish, pour around Béchamel Sauce or Lobster Sauce II, and garnish with parsley.

### Halibut Timbales II

1 lb. halibut
⅔ cup milk
Yolk 1 egg
1¼ teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
Few grains cayenne
⅔ teaspoon corn-starch
⅓ cup thick cream

Force fish through a meat chopper, then rub through a sieve or finely chop. Add yolk of egg, seasonings, corn-starch, and cream beaten until stiff. Cook same as Halibut Timbales I and serve with Cream or Lobster Sauce.

### Lobster Timbales I

Sprinkle slightly buttered Dario or timbale moulds with lobster coral rubbed through a strainer. Line moulds with Fish Force-meat I, fill centres with Creamed Lobster, and cover with force-meat. Put in a pan, half surround with hot water, place over moulds buttered paper, and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with Lobster or Béchamel Sauce.

### Lobster Timbales II

2 lb. live lobster
¼ cup stale bread crumbs
½ cup heavy cream
2 eggs
Sherry wine
Salt and pepper

Split lobster, remove intestinal vein, liver, and stomach. Crack claw shells with mallet, then remove all meat, scraping as close to shell as possible to obtain the color desired. 365Force meat through a sieve, add bread crumbs, cream, eggs slightly beaten, and salt, pepper, and Sherry wine to taste. Fill small timbale moulds two-thirds full, place in iron frying-pan, and pour in boiling water to two-thirds the depths of the moulds. Place over moulds buttered paper and cook on the range until firm, keeping water below the boiling-point. Remove from moulds and serve with Hot Mayonnaise (see p. 278).

### Lobster Cream I

2 lb. lobster
½ cup soft stale bread crumbs
½ cup milk
¼ cup cream
2 teaspoons Anchovy essence
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Whites 3 eggs

Remove lobster meat from shell and chop finely. Cook bread and milk ten minutes. Add cream, seasonings, and whites of eggs beaten until stiff. Turn into one slightly buttered timbale mould and two slightly buttered Dario moulds. Bake as Lobster Timbales. Remove to serving dish, having larger mould in centre, smaller moulds one at either end. Pour around Lobster Sauce I, sprinkle with coral rubbed through a sieve, and garnish with pieces of lobster shell from tail, and parsley.

### Lobster Cream II

1 cup chopped lobster meat
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon paprika
Few drops onion juice
2 egg yolks
⅓ cup milk
⅓ cup heavy cream
White one egg, beaten stiff

Cook lobster meat with butter five minutes. Add flour, seasonings, egg yolks, milk, cream beaten until stiff, and white of egg. Fill buttered timbale moulds three-fourths full, set in pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake until firm. Serve with Lobster Sauce.

### Chicken Timbales I

Garnish slightly buttered Dario moulds with chopped truffles or slices of truffles cut in fancy shapes. Line with Chicken Force-meat I, fill centres with Creamed Chicken and 366Mushrooms, to which has been added a few chopped truffles. Cover with Force-meat, and bake same as Lobster Timbales Serve with Béchamel or Yellow Béchamel Sauce.

### Chicken Timbales II

2 tablespoons butter
¼ cup stale bread crumbs
⅔ cup milk
1 cup chopped cooked chicken
½ tablespoon chopped parsley
2 eggs
Salt
Pepper

Melt butter, add bread crumbs and milk, and cook five minutes, stirring constantly. Add chicken, parsley, and eggs slightly beaten. Season with salt and pepper. Turn into buttered individual moulds, having moulds two-thirds full set in pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake twenty minutes. Serve with Béchamel Sauce.

### Chicken Timbales III

Soak one-half tablespoon granulated gelatine in one and one-half tablespoons cold water, and dissolve in three-fourths cup chicken stock. Add one cup chopped cooked chicken, and stir until the mixture begins to thicken, then add one cup cream beaten until thick. Add one tablespoon Sherry wine and a few grains cayenne. Mould, chill, and serve on lettuce leaves.

### Ham Timbales

Make and bake same as Chicken Timbales II, using chopped cooked ham in place of chicken. Serve with Béchamel Sauce.

### Sweetbread and Mushroom Timbales

Cook two tablespoons butter with one sliced onion five minutes. Add one and one-half cups mushroom caps finely chopped, and one small parboiled sweetbread, finely chopped; then add one cup White Sauce II, one-fourth cup stale bread crumbs, one red pepper chopped, one-half teaspoon salt, yolks two eggs, well beaten, and whites two eggs, beaten until stiff. Fill buttered timbale moulds, set in pan of hot 367water, cover with buttered paper, and bake fifteen minutes. Remove to serving dish and pour around

Mushroom Sauce. Clean five large mushroom caps, cut in halves crosswise, then in slices. Sauté in three tablespoons butter five minutes; dredge with two tablespoons flour, add one-third cup cream and one cup chicken stock, and cook two minutes. Season with salt and paprika, and add one chopped truffle.

### Sweetbread Mousse

Parboil a sweetbread ten minutes, chop, and rub through sieve; there should be one-half cup. Mix with one-third cup breast meat of a raw chicken, and rub through sieve. Pound in mortar, add gradually white of one egg, and work until smooth, then add three-fourths cup heavy cream. Line buttered timbale moulds with mixture, fill centres, cover with mixture, place in a pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper and bake until firm. Remove to serving dish, and pour around sauce.

Filling. Melt one tablespoon butter, add one tablespoon corn-starch, and pour on gradually one-fourth cup White Stock; then add one-third cup parboiled sweetbread cut in cubes, one tablespoon Sherry wine, and salt and pepper to taste.

Sauce. Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and pour on one cup rich chicken stock and one-half cup heavy cream. Season with one tablespoon Sherry wine, one-fourth teaspoon beef extract, and salt and pepper to taste.

### Suprême of Chicken

Breast and second joints of uncooked chicken weighing 4 lbs.
4 eggs
1⅓ cups thick cream
Salt and pepper

Force chicken through a meat chopper, or chop very finely. Beat eggs separately, add one at a time, stirring until mixture is smooth. Add cream, and season with salt and pepper. Turn into slightly buttered Dario moulds, and bake same as Lobster Timbales, allowing thirty minutes for baking. Serve with Suprême or Béchamel Sauce.

368

### Devilled Oysters

1 pint oysters
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
⅔ cup milk
Yolk 1 egg
½ tablespoon finely chopped
parsley
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Buttered cracker crumbs

Clean, drain, and slightly chop oysters. Make a sauce of butter, flour, and milk; add egg yolk, seasonings, and oysters. Arrange buttered scallop shells in a dripping-pan, half fill with mixture, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake twelve to fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Deep oyster shells may be used in place of scallop shells.

### Crab meat, Indienne

2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon finely chopped onion
3 tablespoons flour
⅔ tablespoon curry powder
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup crab meat
Salt

Cook butter with onion three minutes, add flour mixed with curry powder and chicken stock. When boiling-point is reached add crab meat and season with salt.

### Devilled Crabs

1 cup chopped crab meat
¼ cup mushrooms, finely chopped
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
⅔ cup White Stock
Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons Sherry wine
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
Salt and pepper

Make a sauce of butter, flour, and stock; add yolks of eggs, seasonings (except parsley), crab meat, and mushrooms. Cook three minutes, add parsley, and cool mixture. Wash and trim crab shells, fill rounding with mixture, sprinkle with stale bread crumbs mixed with a small quantity of melted butter. Crease on top with a case knife, having three lines parallel with each other across shell and three short lines branching from outside parallel lines. Bake until crumbs are brown.

369

### Devilled Scallops

1 quart scallops
⅓ cup butter
⅓ teaspoon made mustard
1 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
⅔ cup buttered cracker crumbs

Clean scallops, drain, and heat to the boiling-point; drain again, and reserve liquor. Cream the butter, add mustard, salt, cayenne, two-thirds cup reserved liquor, and scallops chopped. Let stand one-half hour. Put in a baking-dish, cover with crumbs, and bake twenty minutes.

### Fried Oyster Crabs

Wash and drain crabs. Roll in flour, and shake in a sieve to remove superfluous flour. Fry in a basket in deep fat, having fat same temperature as for cooked mixtures. Drain, and place on a napkin, and garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. Serve with Sauce Tyrolienne.

### Bouchées of Oyster Crabs

Pick over oyster crabs, dip in flour, cold milk, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Fill bouchée cases with crabs.

### Halibut Marguerites

Line a buttered tablespoon with Fish Force-meat II. Fill with Creamed Lobster, cover with force-meat, and garnish with force-meat, forced through a pastry bag and tube, in the form of a marguerite, having the centre colored yellow. Slip from spoon into boiling water, and cook eight minutes. Serve with Béchamel or Lobster Sauce.

### Cromesquis à la Russe

Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one-half cup milk; then add one-half cup finnan haddie which has been parboiled, drained, and separated into small pieces. Season with cayenne, and spread on a plate to cook. Cut French pancakes in pieces two by four inches. On lower halves of pieces put one tablespoon mixture. Brush edges with beaten egg, fold 370over upper halves, press edges firmly together, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve garnished with parsley.

French Pancakes. To one-fourth cup bread flour add one-third cup milk, one egg, and one-fourth teaspoon salt; beat thoroughly. Heat an omelet pan, butter generously, cover bottom of pan with mixture, cook until browned on one side, turn, and cook on other side.

### Shad Roe with Celery

Clean a shad roe, cook in boiling, salted, acidulated water twenty minutes, and drain. Plunge into cold water, drain, remove membrane, and separate roe into pieces. Melt three tablespoons butter, add roe, and cook ten minutes; then add one tablespoon butter, one-half cup chopped celery, few drops each onion and lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Serve on pieces of toasted bread.

### Stuffed Clams

Cover bottom of dripping-pan with rock salt. Arrange two quarts large-sized soft-shelled clams on salt, in such a manner that liquor will not run into pan as clam-shells open. As soon as shells begin to open, remove clams from shells, and chop. Reserve liquor, strain, and use in making a thick sauce (follow directions for thick White Sauce for Croquettes, p. 266), making one-half rule, and using one-fourth cup each clam liquor and cream. Season highly with lemon juice and cayenne. Moisten clams with sauce, fill shells, sprinkle with grated cheese, cover with buttered soft stale bread crumbs, and bake in a hot oven until crumbs are brown.

### Crab Meat, Terrapin Style

1 cup crab meat
2 tablespoons butter
½ small onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons Sherry wine
⅓ cup heavy cream
Yolks 2 eggs
Salt and cayenne

Cook butter and onion until yellow; remove onion, add crab meat and wine. Cook three minutes, add cream, yolks of eggs, salt, and cayenne.

371

### Mock Crabs

4 tablespoons butter
½ cup flour
1½ teaspoons salt
¾ teaspoon mustard
¼ teaspoon paprika
1½ cups scalded milk
1 can Kornlet
1 egg
3 teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce
1 cup buttered cracker crumbs

Melt butter, add flour mixed with dry seasonings, and pour on gradually the milk. Add Kornlet, egg slightly beaten, and Worcestershire Sauce. Pour into a buttered baking-dish, cover with crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

### Martin’s Specialty

½ tablespoon onion (finely chopped)
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup chopped cooked chicken or veal
1 cup soft bread crumbs
Stock
1 egg yolk
Salt and pepper
Lettuce

Cook onion in butter three minutes. Add meat and bread crumbs, moisten with stock, and add egg yolk and seasonings. Wrap in lettuce leaves, allowing two tablespoons mixture to each portion. Tie in cheese-cloth and steam. Remove to serving dish and pour around Tomato Sauce.

### Sweetbread Ramequins

Clean and parboil a sweetbread and cut in cubes. Melt two tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one cup chicken stock. Reheat sweetbread in sauce and add one-fourth cup heavy cream and one and one-half teaspoons beef extract. Season with salt, paprika, and lemon juice. Fill ramequin dishes, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

### Sweetbread à la Mont Vert

Parboil a pair of sweetbreads, and gash. Decorate in gashes with truffles cut in thin slices, and slice in fancy shapes. Melt three tablespoons butter, add two slices onion, six slices carrot, and sweetbreads; fry five minutes. Pour off butter, and add one-fourth cup brown stock and 372two tablespoons Sherry wine. Cook in oven twenty-five minutes, basting often until well glazed. Serve in nests of peas, and pour around Mushroom Sauce.

Nests. Drain and rinse one can peas, and rub through a sieve. Add three tablespoons butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Heat to boiling-point, and shape in nests, using pastry bag and tube.

Mushroom Sauce. Clean three large mushroom caps, cut in halves crosswise, then in slices. Sauté in two tablespoons butter five minutes. Dredge with one tablespoon flour, and add one cup cream and liquor left in pan in which sweetbreads were cooked. Cook two minutes.

### Sweetbread in Peppers

Parboil sweetbread, cool, and cut in small pieces; there should be one cup. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one-half cup chicken stock; then add two tablespoons heavy cream, and one-third cup mushroom caps broken in small pieces. Season with salt, paprika, and Worcestershire Sauce. Cut a slice from stem end of six peppers, remove seeds, and parboil peppers fifteen minutes. Cool, fill, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. Break stems of mushrooms, cover with cold water, and cook slowly twenty minutes. Melt two tablespoons butter, add a few drops onion juice, two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually the water drained from mushroom stems, and enough chicken stock to make one cup. Add one-fourth cup heavy cream, and season with salt and paprika. Pour sauce around peppers.

### Cutlets of Chicken

Remove fillets from two chickens; for directions, see page 245. Make six parallel slanting incisions in each mignon fillet and insert in each a slice of truffle, having the part of truffle exposed cut in points on edge. Arrange small fillets on large fillets. Garnish with truffles cut in small shapes, and Chicken Force-meat forced through a pastry bag and tube. Place in a greased pan, add one-third cup 373White Stock, cover with buttered paper, and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Serve with Suprême or Béchamel Sauce.

### Fillets of Game

Remove skin from breasts of three partridges. Cut off breasts, leaving wing joints attached. Separate large from mignon fillets. Make five parallel slanting incisions in each mignon fillet, and insert in each a slice of truffle, having part of truffle exposed cut in points on edge. Beginning at outer edge of large fillets make deep cuts, nearly separating fillets in two parts, and stuff with Chicken Force-meat I or II. Arrange small fillets on large fillets. Place in a greased baking-pan, brush over with butter, add one tablespoon Madeira wine and two tablespoons mushroom liquor. Cover with buttered paper, and bake twelve minutes in a hot oven. Serve with Suprême Sauce.

### Chicken Cutlets

Remove fillets from two chickens; for directions, see page 245. Dip each in thick cream, roll in flour, and sauté in lard three minutes. Place in a pan, dot over with butter, and bake ten minutes. Serve with White Sauce I, to which is added one tablespoon meat extract.

### Russian Cutlets

Cover bottom of cutlet moulds with Russian Pilaf and cover Pilaf with Chicken Force-meat II (see p. 150), doubling the recipe and omitting nutmeg. Set moulds in pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes. Remove from moulds to serving dish, surround with Brown Mushroom Sauce, and garnish with parsley.

Russian Pilaf. Wash one-half cup rice. Mix one cup highly seasoned chicken stock with three-fourths cup stewed and strained tomato, and heat to boiling-point. Add rice, and steam until rice is soft. Add two tablespoons butter, stirring lightly with a fork that kernels may not be broken, and season with salt.

374

### Brown Mushroom Sauce

3 tablespoons butter
1 slice carrot
1 slice onion
1 tablespoon lean raw ham, finely chopped
5 tablespoons flour
1¼ cups brown stock
½ lb. mushrooms
1 cup cold water
1 teaspoon beef extract
Salt
Pepper

Cook butter with vegetables and ham until brown, add flour, and when well browned add stock, gradually, then strain. Clean mushroom stems, break in pieces, cover with water, and cook slowly until stock is reduced to one-third cup. Strain, and add to sauce with beef extract and seasonings. Just before serving add mushroom caps peeled, cut in slices lengthwise, and sautéd in butter five minutes.

### Chicken à la McDonald

1 cup cold cooked chicken, cut in strips
3 cold boiled potatoes, cut in one-third inch slices
1 truffle cut in strips
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1½ cups scalded milk
Salt
Pepper

Make a sauce of butter, flour, and milk. Add chicken, potatoes, and truffle, and, as soon as heated, add seasoning.

### Chicken Mousse

Make a chicken force-meat of one-half the breast of a raw chicken pounded and forced through a purée strainer, the white of one egg slightly beaten, one-half cup heavy cream, and salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. Add three-fourths cup cooked white chicken meat rubbed through a sieve, the white of an egg slightly beaten, and one-half cup heavy cream beaten until stiff. Decorate a buttered mould with truffles, turn in mixture, set in pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake until firm. Remove to platter, and pour around Cream or Béchamel Sauce.

### Fillets of Chicken, Sauce Suprême

Remove fillets from three chickens, leaving wing joint and a piece of bone attached to each fillet. Reserve mignon fillets for the making of force-meat. Make a pocket in each large fillet, and stuff with one-half tablespoon force-meat; close pockets, and fasten each with five pieces of truffle, shaped to represent nails and drawn through with a larding needle. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, put in small baking-pan, brush over with cold water, add one-half cup Madeira wine, cover with buttered paper, and bake in a hot oven ten minutes. Arrange cooked mushroom caps overlapping one another the entire length of platter, put a chop frill on bone of each fillet, and put three fillets on each side of mushrooms. Garnish with celery tips and pour around

Russian Cutlets.—Page 373.

Dresden Patties.—Page 380.

Devilled Crabs.—Page 368.

Pan Broiled Lamb Chops à la Lucullus.—Page 376.

375 Sauce Suprême. Cook remaining chicken with one small sliced carrot, one onion, one stalk celery, two sprigs parsley, and a bit of bay leaf, with enough water to cover, one hour. Strain and cook stock until reduced to one cup. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons flour, and pour on stock; cook slowly fifteen minutes. Add three-fourths cup heavy cream and season with salt and pepper; then add twelve peeled white mushroom caps and cook five minutes. Remove caps to platter and add one-fourth cup heavy cream to sauce.

Chicken Force-meat. Put mignon fillets through a meat chopper, add one-half the quantity of stale bread crumbs cooked with milk until moisture has nearly evaporated. Cool and put through purée strainer; then add one and one-half tablespoons melted butter, yolk one egg, two tablespoons cream, and salt and pepper to taste.

### Birds on Canapés

Split five birds (quails or squabs), season with salt and pepper, and spread with four tablespoons butter, rubbed until creamy, and mixed with three tablespoons flour. Bake in a hot oven until well browned, basting every four minutes with two tablespoons butter, melted in one-fourth cup water. Chop six boiled chickens’ livers, season with salt, pepper, and onion juice, moisten with melted butter, and add one teaspoon finely chopped parsley. Spread mixture on five pieces toasted bread, arrange a bird on each canapé, and garnish with parsley.

376

### Breast of Quail Lucullus

Remove breasts from six quail, lard, and bake in a hot oven twenty minutes, basting every five minutes with a very rich brown stock, that breasts may have a glazed appearance. Mould corn meal or hominy mush in cone shape; when firm remove from mould and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley. Arrange breasts on cone around base, and make six nests of mashed seasoned sweet potato around base of cone at equal distances, using a pastry bag and rose tube. Fill nests with creamed mushrooms and sweetbread. Garnish between nests with toasted bread points, the tips of which have been brushed with white of egg, then dipped in finely chopped parsley. Insert a stab frill in each nest and one in top of cone.

Serve with one and one-half cups rich brown sauce seasoned with tomato catsup and mashed sweet potato. A small amount of the sweet potato gives a suggestion of chestnuts.

### Pan Broiled Lamb Chops à la Lucullus

Pan broil lamb chops and garnish same as Breast of Quail Lucullus.

### Chickens’ Livers en Brochette

Cut each liver in four pieces. Alternate pieces of liver and pieces of thinly sliced bacon on skewers, allowing one liver and five pieces of bacon for each skewer. Balance skewers in upright positions on rack in dripping-pan. Bake in a hot oven until bacon is crisp. Serve garnished with watercress.

### Chestnuts en Casserole

Remove shells from three cups chestnuts, put in a casserole dish, and pour over three cups highly seasoned chicken stock. Cover, and cook in a slow oven three hours; then thicken chicken stock with two tablespoons butter and one and one-half tablespoons flour cooked together. Send to table in casserole dish.

377

### Cheese Fondue

1 cup scalded milk
1 cup soft stale bread crumbs
¼ lb. mild cheese, cut in small pieces
1 tablespoon butter
½ teaspoon salt
Yolks 3 eggs
Whites 3 eggs

Mix first five ingredients, add yolks of eggs beaten until lemon-colored. Cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff. Pour in a buttered baking-dish, and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven.

### Cheese Soufflé

2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
½ cup scalded milk
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
¼ cup grated Old English or Young America cheese
Yolks 3 eggs
Whites 3 eggs

Melt butter, add flour, and when well mixed add gradually scalded milk. Then add salt, cayenne, and cheese. Remove from fire; add yolks of eggs beaten until lemon-colored. Cool mixture, and cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Pour into a buttered baking-dish, and bake twenty minutes in a slow oven. Serve at once.

### Ramequins Soufflés

Bake Cheese Soufflé mixture in ramequin dishes. Serve for a course in a dinner.

### Cheese Balls

1½ cups grated mild cheese
1 tablespoon flour
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Whites 3 eggs
Cracker dust

Mix cheese with flour and seasonings. Beat whites of eggs until stiff, and add to first mixture. Shape in small balls, roll in cracker dust, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with salad course.

### Compote of Rice with Peaches

Wash two-thirds cup rice, add one cup boiling water, and steam until rice has absorbed water; then add one and 378one-third cups hot milk, one teaspoon salt, and one-fourth cup sugar. Cook until rice is soft. Turn into a slightly buttered round shallow mould. When shaped, remove from mould to serving dish, and arrange on top sections of cooked peaches drained from their syrup and dipped in macaroon dust. Garnish between sections with candied cherries and angelica cut in leaf-shapes. Angelica may be softened by dipping in hot water. Color peach syrup with fruit red, and pour around mould.

### Compote of Rice and Pears

Cook and mould rice as for Compote of Rice with Peaches. Arrange on top quarters of cooked pears, and pour around pear syrup.

### Croustades of Bread

Cut stale bread in diamonds, squares, or circles. Remove centres, leaving cases. Fry in deep fat or brush over with melted butter, and brown in oven. Fill with creamed vegetables, fish, or meat.

### Rice Croustades

Wash one cup rice, and steam in White Stock. Cool, and mix with three-fourths cup Thick White Sauce, to which has been added beaten yolk of one egg, slight grating of nutmeg, one-half teaspoon salt, and one-eighth teaspoon pepper. Spread mixture in buttered pan two inches thick, cover with buttered paper, and place weight on top. Let stand until cold. Turn from pan, cut in rounds, remove centres, leaving cases; dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Fill with creamed fish.

### Soufflé au Rhum

Yolks 2 eggs
¼ cup powdered sugar
1 tablespoon rum
Whites 4 eggs
Few grains salt

Beat yolks of eggs until lemon-colored. Add sugar, salt, and rum. Cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Butter a hot omelet pan, pour in one-half mixture, brown underneath, fold gradually, turn on a hot serving 379dish, and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Cook remaining mixture in same way. Soufflé au Rhum should be slightly underdone inside. At gentlemen’s dinners rum is sometimes poured around soufflé and lighted when sent to table.

### Omelet Soufflé

Yolks 2 eggs
¼ cup powdered sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla
Whites 4 eggs
Few grains salt

Prepare same as Soufflé au Rhum. Mound three-fourths of mixture on a slightly buttered platter. Decorate mound with remaining mixture forced through a pastry bag and tube. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven.

### Patties

Patty shells are filled with Creamed Oysters, Oysters in Brown Sauce, Creamed Chicken, Creamed Chicken and Mushrooms, or Creamed Sweetbreads. They are arranged on a folded napkin, and are served for a course at dinner or luncheon.

### Bouchées

Small pastry shells filled with creamed meat are called bouchées.

### Vol-au-vents

Vol-au-vents are filled same as patty shells.

### Rissoles

Roll puff paste to one-eighth inch thickness, and cut in rounds. Place one teaspoon finely chopped seasoned meat moistened with Thick White Sauce on each round. Brush each piece with cold water half-way round close to edge. Fold like a turnover, and press edges together. Dip in egg slightly beaten and diluted with one tablespoon water. Roll in gelatine, fry in deep fat, and drain. Granulated gelatine cannot be used.

Filling for Rissoles. Mix one-half cup finely chopped cold cooked chicken with one-fourth cup finely chopped 380cooked ham. Moisten with Thick White Sauce, and season with salt and cayenne.

### Cigarettes à la Prince Henry

Roll puff paste very thin, and spread with Chicken Force-meat. Roll like a jelly roll, and cut in pieces four inches long and a little larger round than a cigarette. Brush over with egg, roll in crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Arrange log-cabin fashion on a folded doily, and serve while hot.

### Zigaras à la Russe

Make and fry same as Cigarettes à la Prince Henry, using cheese mixture in place of Chicken Force-meat. Melt two tablespoons butter, add four tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one-half cup milk, then add one tablespoon heavy cream, one egg yolk, and one-third cup grated cheese. Season highly with salt and cayenne. Cool before spreading on paste.

### Dresden Patties

Cut stale bread in two-inch slices, shape with a round cutter three inches in diameter, and remove centres, making cases. Dip cases in egg, slightly beaten, diluted with milk and seasoned with salt, allowing two tablespoons milk to each egg. When bread is thoroughly soaked, drain, and fry in deep fat. Fill with any mixture suitable for patty cases.

### Russian Patties

1 pint oysters
3 tablespoons butter
4½ tablespoons flour
½ cup chicken stock
½ cup cream
½ tablespoon vinegar
¾ tablespoon lemon juice
Yolks 2 eggs
1 tablespoon grated horseradish
2 tablespoons capers
Salt and pepper

Parboil oysters, drain, and reserve liquor; there should be one-half cup. Make sauce of butter, flour, stock, oyster liquor, and cream; add yolks of eggs, seasonings, and salt and pepper to taste. Add oysters, and as soon as oysters are heated, fill patty shells.

381

### Cheese Soufflé with Pastry

2 eggs
⅔ cup thick cream
½ cup Swiss cheese, cut in small dice
½ cup grated American cheese
⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper
Few grains cayenne
Few gratings nutmeg

Add eggs to cream and beat slightly, then add cheese and seasonings. Line the sides of ramequin dishes with strips of puff paste. Fill dishes with mixture until two-thirds full. Bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven.

### Lamb Rissoles à l’Indienne

Roll puff paste one-eighth inch thick and shape, using circular cutters of different sizes. On the centres of smaller pieces put one tablespoon prepared lamb mixture, wet edges, cover with large pieces, press edges firmly together, prick upper paste in several places, brush over with yolk of egg diluted with one teaspoon cold water, and bake in hot oven.

Lamb Filling. Cook three tablespoons butter, with a few drops onion juice, until well browned, add one-fourth cup flour, and brown butter and flour, then add one cup lamb stock. Season highly with salt, paprika, and curry powder. To one-half the sauce, add two-thirds cup cold roast lamb cut in one-third inch cubes. Add stock to remaining sauce, and pour around rissoles just before sending to table.

### Quail Pies

6 quails
6 slices carrot
Stalk of celery
2 slices onion
Sprig of parsley
Bit of bay leaf
¼ teaspoon peppercorns
Flour
Salt and pepper
Sherry wine

Remove breasts and legs from birds, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. To butter in pan add vegetables and peppercorns, and cook five minutes. Separate backs of birds in pieces, cover with cold water, add vegetables, and cook slowly one hour. Drain stock from vegetables, and thicken with flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Season with salt, pepper, 382and wine. If not rich enough, add more butter. Allow one bird to each individual dish, sauce to make sufficiently moist, and cover with plain or puff paste, in which make two incisions, through which the legs of the bird should extend.

### Aspic Jelly

Carrot | 2 tablespoons each, cut into cubes
Onion
Celery
2 sprigs parsley
2 sprigs thyme
1 sprig savory
2 cloves
½ teaspoon peppercorns
1 bay leaf
⅞ cup white wine
1 box gelatine
1 quart White Stock for vegetables and white meat, or
1 quart Brown Stock for dark meat
Juice 1 lemon
Whites 3 eggs

Aspic jelly is always made with meat stock, and is principally used in elaborate entrées where fish, chicken, game, or vegetables are to be served moulded in jelly. In making Aspic Jelly, use as much liquid as the pan which is to contain moulded dish will hold.

Put vegetables, seasonings, and wine (except two tablespoons) in a saucepan; cook eight minutes, and strain, reserving liquid. Add gelatine to stock, then add lemon juice. Heat to boiling-point and add strained liquid. Season with salt and cayenne. Beat whites of eggs slightly, add two tablespoons wine, and dilute with one cup hot mixture. Add slowly to remaining mixture, stirring constantly until boiling-point is reached. Place on back of range and let stand thirty minutes. Strain through a double cheese-cloth placed over a fine wire strainer, or through a jelly bag.

### Tomatoes in Aspic

Peel six small firm tomatoes, and remove pulp, having opening in tops as small as possible. Sprinkle insides with salt, invert, and let stand thirty minutes. Fill with vegetable or chicken salad. Cover tops with Mayonnaise to which has been added a small quantity of dissolved gelatine, and garnish with capers and sliced pickles. Place a pan in ice-water, cover bottom with aspic jelly mixture, and let stand 383until jelly is firm. Arrange tomatoes on jelly garnished side down. Add more aspic jelly mixture, let stand until firm, and so continue until all is used. Chill thoroughly, turn on a serving dish, and garnish around base with parsley.

### Stuffed Olives in Aspic

Stone olives, using an olive stoner, and fill cavities thus made with green butter. Place small Dario moulds in pan of ice-water, and pour in aspic jelly mixture (see p. 382) one-fourth inch deep. When firm put an olive in each mould (keeping olives in place by means of small wooden skewers) and add aspic by spoonfuls until moulds are filled. Chill thoroughly, remove to circular slices of liver sausage, garnish with green butter forced through a pastry bag and tube, yolks of “hard-boiled” eggs forced through a strainer, and red peppers cut in fancy shapes.

Green Butter. Mix yolk one “hard-boiled” egg, two tablespoons butter, one sprig parsley, one sprig tarragon, one small shallot, one-half teaspoon anchovy paste, one teaspoon capers, and one teaspoon chopped gherkins, and pound in a mortar; then rub through a very fine sieve. Season with salt and pepper, and add a few drops vinegar.

### Tongue in Aspic

Cook a tongue according to directions on page 210. After removing skin and roots, run a skewer through tip of tongue and fleshy part, thus keeping tongue in shape. When cool, remove skewer. Put a round pan in ice-water, cover bottom with brown aspic, and when firm decorate with cooked carrot, turnip, beet cut in fancy shapes, and parsley. Cover with aspic jelly mixture, adding it by spoonfuls so as not to disarrange vegetables. When this layer of mixture is firm, put in tongue, adding gradually remaining mixture as in Tomatoes in Aspic.

### Birds in Aspic

Clean, bone, stuff, and truss a bird, then steam over body bones or roast. If roasted, do not dredge with flour. Put 384a pan in ice-water, cover bottom with aspic jelly mixture, and when firm garnish with truffles and egg custard thinly sliced and cut in fancy shapes. The smaller the shapes the more elaborate may be the designs. When garnishing with small shapes, pieces are so difficult to handle that they should be taken on the pointed end of a larding-needle, and placed as desired on jelly. Add aspic mixture by spoonfuls, that designs may not be disturbed. When mixture is added, and firm to the depth of three-fourths inch, place in the bird, breast down. If sides of mould are to be decorated, dip pieces in jelly and they will cling to pan. Add remaining mixture gradually as in Tomatoes in Aspic. Small birds, chicken, capon, or turkey, may be put in aspic.

### Egg Custard for Decorating

Separate yolks from whites of two eggs. Beat yolks slightly, add two tablespoons milk and few grains salt. Strain into a buttered cup, put in a saucepan, surround with boiling water to one-half depth of cup, cover, put on back of range, and steam until custard is firm. Beat whites slightly, add few grains salt, and cook as yolks. Cool, turn from cups, cut in thin slices, then in desired shapes.

### Stuffing for Chicken in Aspic

Chop finely breast and meat from second joints of an uncooked chicken, or one pound of uncooked lean veal. Add one-half cup cracker crumbs, hot stock to moisten, salt, pepper, celery salt, cayenne, lemon juice, and one egg slightly beaten. In stuffing boned chicken, stuff body, legs, and wings, being careful that too much stuffing is not used, as an allowance must be made for the swelling of cracker crumbs.

### Spring Mousse

Chop three-fourths cup cold cooked chicken or veal, and pound in a mortar. Add gradually one-half cup heavy cream, and force mixture through purée strainer. Add 385one-half tablespoon granulated gelatine dissolved in three tablespoons White Stock. Add another one-half cup heavy cream and season with salt, cayenne, and horseradish powder. Pour jelly into small moulds one-third inch deep, using lemon Sauterne, or aspic. When firm, fill moulds with veal mixture and set aside to chill. Remove from moulds and serve on lettuce leaves.

### Chaud-froid of Eggs

Cut six “hard-boiled” eggs in halves lengthwise and remove yolks. Mix one-third cup cold cooked chicken finely chopped, two tablespoons cold cooked ham finely chopped, two tablespoons chopped raw mushroom caps, one-half tablespoon chopped truffles, and yolks of four of the eggs rubbed through a sieve. Moisten with Spanish Sauce and refill whites with mixture. Mask eggs with Spanish Sauce, garnish with truffles, cut in fancy shapes, and brush over with aspic. Arrange on serving dish and garnish with cress.

Spanish Sauce. Cook one and one-half cups canned tomatoes fifteen minutes with one-fourth onion, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, six cloves, one-third teaspoon salt, one-fourth teaspoon paprika, and a few grains cayenne; then rub through a sieve. Beat yolks three eggs slightly, and add, gradually, three tablespoons olive oil. Combine mixtures and cook over hot water, stirring constantly. Add one tablespoon granulated gelatine soaked in three-fourths tablespoon each tarragon vinegar and cold water. Strain, and cool.

### Jellied Vegetables

Soak one tablespoon granulated gelatine in one-fourth cup cold water, and dissolve in one cup boiling water; then add one-fourth cup, each, sugar and vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, and one teaspoon salt. Strain, cool, and when beginning to stiffen, add one cup celery cut in small pieces, one-half cup finely shredded cabbage, and one and one-half canned pimentoes cut in small pieces. Turn into a mould and chill. Remove from mould and arrange around jelly thin slices of cold cooked meat overlapping one another. Garnish with celery tips.

386

### Mayonnaise of Mackerel

Clean two medium-sized mackerel, put in baking-dish with one-third cup each water, cider vinegar, and tarragon vinegar, twelve cloves, one teaspoon each peppercorns and salt, and a bit of bay leaf. Cover with buttered paper and cook in a moderate oven. Arrange on serving dish, remove skin, cool, and mask with Mayonnaise thickened with gelatine. Let stand until thoroughly chilled, and garnish with sliced cucumbers, lemon baskets filled with Mayonnaise sprinkled with finely chopped parsley, and sprigs of parsley.

### Chaud-froid of Chicken

2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup White Stock
Yolk one egg
2 tablespoons cream
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Salt and pepper
¾ teaspoon granulated gelatine dissolved in one tablespoon hot water
Aspic jelly
Truffles
6 pieces cooked chicken, shaped in form of cutlets

Make a sauce of butter, flour, and stock; add egg yolk diluted with cream, lemon juice, salt and pepper; then add dissolved gelatine. Dip chicken in sauce which has been allowed to cool. When chicken has cooled, garnish upper side with truffles cut in shapes. Brush over with aspic jelly mixture, and chill. Arrange a bed of lettuce; in centre pile cold cooked asparagus tips or celery cut in small pieces, marinated with French Dressing, and place chicken at base of salad.

### Moulded Salmon, Cucumber Sauce

1 can salmon
½ tablespoon salt
1½ tablespoons sugar
½ tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon mustard
Few grains cayenne
Yolks 2 eggs
1½ tablespoons melted butter
¾ cup milk
¼ cup vinegar
¾ tablespoon granulated gelatine
2 tablespoons cold water

Remove salmon from can, rinse thoroughly with hot water, and separate in flakes. Mix dry ingredients, add egg yolks, butter, milk, and vinegar. Cook over boiling water, stirring constantly until mixture thickens. Add gelatine soaked in cold water. Strain, and add to salmon. Fill individual mould, chill, and serve with

Chaud-froid of Eggs.—Page 385.

Capon in Aspic garnished with cooked yolks and whites of eggs cut in fancy shapes, pistachio nuts, and truffles.—Page 384.

Harvard Pudding served with Crushed Berries and Whipped Cream.—Page 400.

Snowballs garnished with Strawberries and served with Crushed Strawberries and Whipped Cream.—Page 401.

387 Cucumber Sauce II. Beat one-half cup heavy cream until stiff, add one-fourth teaspoon salt, a few grains pepper, and gradually two tablespoons vinegar; then add one cucumber, pared, chopped, and drained.

### Moulded Chicken, Sauterne Jelly

Cover a four-pound fowl with two quarts cold water, and add four slices carrot, one onion stuck with eight cloves, two stalks celery, bit of bay leaf, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, and one tablespoon salt. Bring quickly to boiling-point, and let simmer until meat is tender. Remove meat from bones, and finely chop. Reduce stock to three-fourths cup, cool, and remove fat. Soak one teaspoon granulated gelatine in one teaspoon cold water, and dissolve in stock which has been reheated. Add to meat, and season with salt, pepper, celery salt, lemon juice, and onion juice. Pack solidly into a slightly buttered one-pound baking powder tin, and chill. Remove from tin, cut in thin slices, and arrange around Sauterne Jelly, beaten with a fork until light.

When making Sauterne Jelly (see p. 420) to serve with meat, use but three tablespoons sugar.

### Lenox Chicken

1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¾ cup hot chicken stock
¾ cup heavy cream
1½ cups cold cooked chicken, cut in dice
½ tablespoon granulated gelatine
2 tablespoons cold water
Yolks 2 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon mustard
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon vinegar
½ cup hot cream
1½ tablespoons butter
Whites 2 eggs
½ cup heavy cream
2 cups finely chopped celery

Dissolve one tablespoon gelatine in chicken stock and strain. When mixture begins to thicken beat until frothy, and add three-fourths cup heavy cream, beaten until stiff, 388and chicken dice. Season with salt and pepper, turn into individual moulds, and chill. Soak remaining gelatine in cold water, dissolve by standing over hot water, then strain. Beat yolks of eggs slightly and add salt, sugar, mustard, lemon juice, vinegar, and hot cream. Cook over hot water until mixture thickens, add butter and strained gelatine. Add mixture, gradually, to whites of eggs beaten stiff, and when cold, fold in heavy cream beaten until stiff, and celery. Remove chicken from mould, surround with sauce, and garnish with celery tips.

### Rum Cakes

Shape Brioche dough in the form of large biscuits and put into buttered individual tin moulds, having moulds two-thirds full; cover, and let rise to fill moulds. Bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Remove from moulds and dip in Rum Sauce. Arrange on a dish and pour remaining sauce around cakes.

### Rum Sauce

½ cup sugar
1 cup boiling water
¼ cup rum or wine

Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water five minutes; then add rum or wine.

### Flûtes

Shape Brioche dough in sticks similar to Bread Sticks. Place on a buttered sheet, cover, and let rise fifteen minutes. Brush over with white of one egg slightly beaten and diluted with one-half tablespoon cold water. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and bake ten minutes. These are delicious served with coffee or chocolate.

### Baba Cakes

To one and one-half cups Brioche dough add one-third cup each raisins seeded and cut in pieces, currants, and citron thinly sliced, previously soaked in Maraschino for one hour. Shape, let rise, and bake same as Rum Cakes. Dip in sauce made same as Rum Sauce, substituting Maraschino in place of rum.

389

### Baba Cakes with Apricots

1½ cups flour
1 yeast cake dissolved in
½ cup lukewarm water
⅔ cup butter
4 eggs
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt

Make sponge of one-half cup flour and dissolved yeast cake; cover and let rise. Mix remaining flour with butter, two eggs, sugar, and salt. Beat thoroughly, and add, while beating, remaining eggs, one at a time, then beat until mixture is perfectly smooth. As soon as sponge has doubled its bulk, combine mixtures, beat thoroughly, and half fill buttered individual tins. Let rise, and bake in a moderate oven. Remove from tins, cut a circular piece from top of each, and scoop out a small quantity of the inside. Fill centres thus made with Apricot Marmalade, replace circular pieces, and serve with Wine Sauce (see p. 409).

390

## CHAPTER XXIII
HOT PUDDINGS

### Rice Pudding

4 cups milk
⅓ cup rice
½ teaspoon salt
⅓ cup sugar
Grated rind ½ lemon

Wash rice, mix ingredients, and pour into buttered pudding-dish; bake three hours in very slow oven, stirring three times during first hour of baking to prevent rice from settling.

### Poor Man’s Pudding

4 cups milk
½ cup rice
⅓ cup molasses
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon butter

Wash rice, mix and bake same as Rice Pudding. At last stirring, add butter.

### Indian Pudding

5 cups scalded milk
⅓ cup Indian meal
½ cup molasses
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ginger

Pour milk slowly on meal, cook in double boiler twenty minutes, add molasses, salt, and ginger; pour into buttered pudding-dish and bake two hours in slow oven; serve with cream. If baked too rapidly it will not whey. Ginger may be omitted.

### Cerealine Pudding

4 cups scalded milk
2 cups cerealine
½ cup molasses
1½ teaspoons salt
1½ tablespoons butter

Pour milk on cerealine, add remaining ingredients, pour into buttered pudding-dish, and bake one hour in slow oven. Serve with cream.

391

### Newton Tapioca

5 tablespoons pearl tapioca
4 cups scalded milk
4 tablespoons Indian meal
¾ cup molasses
3 tablespoons butter
1½ teaspoons salt
1 cup milk

Soak tapioca two hours in cold water to cover. Pour scalded milk over Indian meal, molasses, butter, and salt. Cook in double boiler until mixture thickens. Add tapioca drained from water, turn into buttered pudding-dish, and pour over remaining milk, but do not stir. Bake one and one-fourth hours in a slow oven.

### Apple Tapioca

¾ cup pearl or Minute Tapioca
Cold water
2½ cups boiling water
½ teaspoon salt
7 sour apples
½ cup sugar

Soak tapioca one hour in cold water to cover, drain, add boiling water and salt; cook in double boiler until transparent. Core and pare apples, arrange in buttered pudding-dish, fill cavities with sugar, pour over tapioca, and bake in moderate oven until apples are soft. Serve with sugar and cream or Cream Sauce I. Minute Tapioca requires no soaking.

### Tapioca Custard Pudding

4 cups scalded milk
⅔ cup pearl tapioca
3 eggs
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter

Soak tapioca one hour in cold water to cover, drain, add to milk, and cook in double boiler thirty minutes; beat eggs slightly, add sugar and salt, pour on gradually hot mixture, turn into buttered pudding-dish, add butter, bake thirty minutes in slow oven.

### Peach Tapioca

1 can peaches
¼ cup powdered sugar
1 cup tapioca
Boiling water
½ cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt

Drain peaches, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and let stand one hour; soak tapioca one hour in cold water to cover; to 392peach syrup add enough boiling water to make three cups; heat to boiling-point, add tapioca drained from cold water, sugar, and salt; then cook in a double boiler until transparent. Line a mould or pudding-dish with peaches cut in quarters, fill with tapioca, and bake in moderate oven thirty minutes; cool slightly, turn on a dish, and serve with Cream Sauce I.

### Corn Pudding

2 cups popped corn, finely pounded
3 cups milk
3 eggs, slightly beaten
½ cup brown sugar
1 tablespoon butter
¾ teaspoon salt

Scald milk, pour over corn, and let stand one hour. Add remaining ingredients, turn into a buttered dish, and bake in a slow oven until firm. Serve with cream, or maple syrup.

### Scalloped Apples

1 small baker’s stale loaf
¼ cup butter
1 quart sliced apples
¼ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
Grated rind and juice of ½ lemon

Cut loaf in halves, remove soft part, and crumb by rubbing through a colander; melt butter and stir in lightly with fork; cover bottom of buttered pudding-dish with crumbs and spread over one-half the apples, sprinkle with one-half sugar, nutmeg, lemon juice, and rind mixed together; repeat cover with remaining crumbs, and bake forty minutes in moderate oven. Cover at first to prevent crumbs browning too rapidly. Serve with sugar and cream.

### Bread Pudding

2 cups stale bread crumbs
1 quart scalded milk
⅓ cup sugar
¼ cup melted butter
2 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla or
¼ teaspoon spice

Soak bread crumbs in milk, set aside until cool; add sugar, butter, eggs slightly beaten, salt, and flavoring; bake one hour in buttered pudding-dish in slow oven; serve with Vanilla Sauce. In preparing bread crumbs for puddings avoid using outside crusts. With a coarse grater there need be but little waste.

393

### Cracker Custard Pudding

Make same as Bread Pudding, using two-thirds cup cracker crumbs in place of bread crumbs; after baking, cover with meringue made of whites two eggs, one-fourth cup powdered sugar, and one tablespoon lemon juice; return to oven to cook meringue.

### Bread and Butter Pudding

1 small baker’s stale loaf
Butter
3 eggs
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 quart milk

Remove end crusts from bread, cut loaf in one-half inch slices, spread each slice generously with butter; arrange in buttered pudding-dish, buttered side down. Beat eggs slightly, add sugar, salt, and milk; strain, and pour over bread; let stand thirty minutes. Bake one hour in slow oven, covering the first half-hour of baking. The top of pudding should be well browned. Serve with Hard or Creamy Sauce. Three-fourths cup raisins, parboiled in boiling water to cover and seeded, may be sprinkled between layers of bread.

### Bread and Butter Apple Pudding

Cover bottom of a shallow baking-dish with apple sauce. Cut stale bread in one-third inch slices, spread with softened butter, remove crusts, and cut in triangular-shaped pieces; then arrange closely together over apple. Sprinkle generously with sugar, to which is added a few drops vanilla. Bake in a moderate oven and serve with cream.

### Chocolate Bread Pudding

2 cups stale bread crumbs
4 cups scalded milk
2 squares Baker’s chocolate
⅔ cup sugar
2 eggs
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla

Soak bread in milk thirty minutes; melt chocolate in saucepan placed over hot water, add one-half sugar and enough milk taken from bread and milk to make of consistency to pour; add to mixture with remaining sugar, salt, vanilla, 394and eggs slightly beaten; turn into buttered pudding-dish and bake one hour in a moderate oven. Serve with Hard or Cream Sauce I.

### Mock Indian Pudding

½ small loaf baker’s entire wheat bread
3½ cups milk
½ cup molasses
Butter

Remove crusts from bread and cut into five slices of uniform thickness. Spread generously with butter, arrange in baking-dish, pour over three cups of milk and molasses. Bake from two to three hours in a very slow oven, stirring three times during the first hour of baking, then add remaining milk. Serve with cream or vanilla ice cream.

### Bangor Pudding

1⅓ cups cracker crumbs
Boiling water
2 cups milk
⅓ cup molasses
1 egg
1 cup raisins

Moisten cracker crumbs with boiling water, and let stand until cool. Add milk, molasses, egg slightly beaten, and raisins seeded and cut in pieces. Turn into a buttered pudding mould, and steam eight hours. Let stand in mould to cool. Serve cold with Cream Sauce II.

### Steamed Lemon Pudding

8 small slices stale bread
Lemon mixture
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons sugar
2 eggs
Grated rind 1 lemon
⅛ teaspoon salt

Spread bread with lemon mixture, and arrange in buttered pudding mould. Beat eggs slightly, add sugar, salt, and milk; strain, add lemon rind, and pour mixture over bread. Cover, set in pan of hot water, and bake one hour.

Lemon Mixture. Cook three tablespoons lemon juice, grated rind one lemon, and one-fourth cup butter two minutes. Add one cup sugar and three eggs slightly beaten; cook until mixture thickens, cool, and add one tablespoon brandy.

395

### Cottage Pudding

¼ cup butter
⅔ cup sugar
1 egg
1 cup milk
2¼ cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten; mix and sift flour, baking powder, and salt; add alternately with milk to first mixture; turn into buttered cake pan; bake thirty-five minutes. Serve with Vanilla or Hard Sauce.

### Strawberry Cottage Pudding

⅓ cup butter
1 cup sugar
1 egg
½ cup milk
1¾ cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder

Mix same as Cottage Pudding, and bake twenty-five minutes in shallow pan; cut in squares and serve with strawberries (sprinkled with sugar and slightly mashed) and Cream Sauce I. Sliced peaches may be used in place of strawberries.

### Orange Puffs

⅓ cup butter
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup milk
1¾ cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder

Mix same as Cottage Pudding, and bake in buttered individual tins. Serve with Orange Sauce.

### Chocolate Pudding

¼ cup butter
1 cup sugar
Yolks 2 eggs
½ cup milk
1⅜ cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
Whites 2 eggs
1⅓ squares Baker’s chocolate
⅛ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon vanilla

Cream the butter, and add one-half the sugar gradually. Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, and add, gradually, remaining sugar. Combine mixtures, and add milk alternately with flour mixed and sifted with baking powder and salt; then add whites of eggs beaten until stiff, melted chocolate, and vanilla. Bake in an angel-cake pan, 396remove from pan, cool, fill the centre with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, and pour around

Chocolate Sauce. Boil one cup sugar, one-half cup water, and a few grains cream of tartar until of the consistency of a thin syrup. Melt one and one-half squares Baker’s chocolate and pour on gradually the hot syrup. Cool slightly, and flavor with one-fourth teaspoon vanilla.

### Custard Soufflé

3 tablespoons butter
¼ cup flour
1 cup scalded milk
4 eggs
¼ cup sugar

Melt butter, add flour, and gradually hot milk; when well thickened, pour on to yolks of eggs beaten until thick and lemon-colored, and mixed with sugar; cool, and cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten stiff and dry. Turn into buttered pudding-dish, and bake from thirty to thirty-five minutes in slow oven; take from oven and serve at once,—if not served immediately it is sure to fall; serve with Creamy or Foamy Sauce.

### Apricot Soufflé

Drain and reserve syrup from one can apricots and cut fruit into quarters, then put closely together on bottom of a buttered baking-dish. Pour over Custard Soufflé mixture. Bake from thirty-five to forty minutes in a slow oven. Serve with apricot syrup and whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla or vanilla ice cream. Canned peaches may be used in place of apricots.

### Lemon Soufflé

Yolks 4 eggs
Grated rind and juice 1 lemon
1 cup sugar
Whites 4 eggs

Beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar gradually and continue beating, then add lemon rind and juice. Cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until dry; turn into buttered pudding-dish, set in pan of hot water, and bake thirty-five to forty minutes. Serve with or without sauce.

397

### Chocolate Soufflé

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
¾ cup milk
1½ squares Baker’s chocolate
⅓ cup sugar
2 tablespoons hot water
3 eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla

Melt the butter, add flour, and pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, milk; cook until boiling-point is reached. Melt chocolate in a small saucepan placed over hot water, add sugar and water, and stir until smooth. Combine mixtures, and add yolks of eggs well beaten; cool. Fold in whites of eggs beaten stiff, and add vanilla. Turn into a buttered baking-dish, and bake in a moderate oven twenty-five minutes. Serve with Cream Sauce I.

### Mocha Soufflé

3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons bread flour
¾ cup boiled coffee (Mocha)
¼ cup cream
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
4 eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla

Make and bake same as Chocolate Soufflé. Serve with

Mocha Sauce. Mix yolks two eggs, one-fourth cup sugar, and a few grains salt; then add gradually one-half cup Mocha coffee infusion. Cook in double boiler until mixture thickens, stirring constantly. Strain, cool, and fold in one cup whipped cream.

### Fruit Soufflé

¾ cup fruit pulp, peach, apricot, or quince
Whites 3 eggs
Sugar
Few grains salt

Rub fruit through sieve; if canned fruit is used, first drain from syrup. Heat, and sweeten if needed; beat whites of eggs until stiff, add gradually hot fruit pulp, and salt, and continue beating; turn into buttered and sugared individual moulds, having them three-fourths full; set moulds in pan of hot water and bake in slow oven until firm, which may be determined by pressing with finger; serve with Sabyon Sauce.

398

### Spanish Soufflé

¼ cup butter
½ cup stale bread crumbs
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons sugar
3 eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla

Melt butter, add crumbs, cook until slightly browned, stirring often; add milk and sugar, cook twenty minutes in double boiler; remove from fire, add unbeaten yolks of eggs, then cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff, and flavor. Bake same as Fruit Soufflé.

### Chestnut Soufflé

¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup chestnut purée
½ cup milk
Whites 3 eggs

Mix sugar and flour, add chestnuts and milk gradually; cook five minutes, stirring constantly; beat whites of eggs until stiff, and cut and fold into mixture. Bake same as Fruit Soufflé; serve with Cream Sauce.

### Chocolate Rice Meringue

2 cups milk
¼ cup rice
⅓ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter
⅓ cup sugar
1 square melted chocolate
½ teaspoon vanilla
½ cup seeded raisins
Whites two eggs
½ cup heavy cream

Scald milk, add rice and salt, and cook until rice is soft. Add butter, sugar, chocolate, vanilla, and raisins. Cut and fold in the whites of eggs, beaten until stiff, and cream, beaten until stiff. Pour into a buttered baking-dish, and bake fifteen minutes. Cover with a meringue made of the whites of three eggs, six tablespoons powdered sugar, and one-half teaspoon vanilla; then brown in a moderate oven.

### Steamed Apple Pudding

2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter
¾ cup milk
4 apples cut in eighths

Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in butter with tips of fingers, add milk gradually, mixing with a knife; toss on 399floured board, pat and roll out, place apples on middle of dough, and sprinkle with one tablespoon sugar mixed with one-fourth teaspoon each of salt and nutmeg; bring dough around apples and carefully lift into buttered mould or five-pound lard pail; or apples may be sprinkled over dough, and dough rolled like a jelly roll; cover closely, and steam one hour and twenty minutes; serve with Vanilla or Cold Sauce. Twice the number of apples may be sprinkled with sugar and cooked until soft in granite kettle placed on top of range, covered with dough, rolled size to fit in kettle, then kettle covered tightly, and dough steamed fifteen minutes. When turned on dish for serving, apples will be on top.

### Steamed Blueberry Pudding

Mix and sift dry ingredients and work in butter same as for Steamed Apple Pudding. Add one cup each of milk, and blueberries rolled in flour; turn into buttered mould and steam one and one-half hours. Serve with Creamy Sauce.

### Steamed Cranberry Pudding

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
3 eggs
3½ cups flour
1¼ tablespoons baking powder
½ cup milk
1½ cups cranberries

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and eggs well beaten. Mix and sift flour and baking powder and add alternately with milk to first mixture, stir in berries, turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam three hours. Serve with thin cream, sweetened and flavored with nutmeg.

### Ginger Pudding

⅓ cup butter
½ cup sugar
1 egg
2¼ cups flour
3½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ginger
1 cup milk

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten; mix and sift dry ingredients; add alternately with milk to first mixture. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam two hours; serve with Vanilla Sauce.

400

### Harvard Pudding

⅓ cup butter
½ cup sugar
2½ cups flour
3½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1 egg
1 cup milk

Mix and sift dry ingredients and work in butter with tips of fingers; beat egg, add milk, and combine mixtures; turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam two hours; serve with warm Apple Sauce and Hard Sauce.

Apple Sauce. Pick over and wash dried apples, soak over night in cold water to cover; cook until soft; sweeten, and flavor with lemon juice.

### Steamed Chocolate Pudding

3 tablespoons butter
⅔ cup sugar
1 egg
1 cup milk
2¼ cups flour
4½ teaspoons baking powder
2½ squares Baker’s chocolate
¼ teaspoon salt

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten. Mix and sift flour with baking powder and salt, and add alternately with milk to first mixture, then add chocolate, melted. Turn into a buttered mould. Cover, and steam two hours. Serve with

### Cream Sauce

¼ cup butter
1 cup powdered sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla
¼ cup heavy cream

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, vanilla, and cream beaten until stiff.

### Swiss Pudding

½ cup butter
⅞ cup flour
2 cups milk
Grated rind one lemon
5 eggs
⅓ cup powdered sugar

Cream the butter, add flour gradually; scald milk with lemon rind, add to first mixture, and cook five minutes in double boiler. Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar gradually, then add to cooked mixture; cool, and cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten stiff. Turn 401into buttered mould, cover, and steam one and one-fourth hours; while steaming, be sure water surrounds mould to half its depth, and never reaches a lower temperature than the boiling-point.

### Snowballs

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
½ cup milk
2¼ cups flour
3½ teaspoons baking powder
Whites 4 eggs

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, milk, and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder; then add the whites of eggs beaten stiff. Steam thirty-five minutes in buttered cups; serve with preserved fruit, quince marmalade, or strawberry sauce.

### Graham Pudding

¼ cup butter
½ cup molasses
½ cup milk
1 egg
1½ cups Graham flour
½ teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces

Melt butter, add molasses, milk, egg well beaten, dry ingredients mixed and sifted, and raisins; turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam two and one-half hours. Serve with Wine Sauce. Dates or figs cut in small pieces may be used in place of raisins.

### St. James Pudding

3 tablespoons butter
½ cup molasses
½ cup milk
1⅔ cups flour
½ teaspoon soda
Salt | ¼ teaspoon each
Clove
Allspice
Nutmeg
½ lb. dates, stoned and cut in pieces

Mix and steam same as Graham Pudding. Serve with Wine Sauce. A simple, delicious pudding without egg. Puddings may be steamed in buttered one-pound baking-powder boxes, providing they do not leak, and are attractive in shape and easy to serve.

402

### Suet Pudding

1 cup finely chopped suet
1 cup molasses
1 cup milk
3 cups flour
1 teaspoon soda
1½ teaspoons salt
Ginger | ½ teaspoon each
Clove
Nutmeg
1 teaspoon cinnamon

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add molasses and milk to suet; combine mixtures. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam three hours; serve with Sterling Sauce. Raisins and currants may be added.

### Thanksgiving Pudding I

4 cups scalded milk
1¼ cups rolled crackers
1 cup sugar
4 eggs
⅓ cup melted butter
½ grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt
1½ cups raisins

Pour milk over crackers and let stand until cool; add sugar, eggs slightly beaten, nutmeg, salt, and butter; parboil raisins until soft, by cooking in boiling water to cover; seed, and add to mixture; turn into buttered pudding-dish and bake slowly two and one-half hours, stirring after first half-hour to prevent raisins from settling; serve with Brandy Sauce.

### Thanksgiving Pudding II

⅓ cup suet
½ lb. figs, finely chopped
2½ cups stale bread crumbs
¾ cup milk
1 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon grated nutmeg
½ cup English walnut meats
½ cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
2 tablespoons flour
4 eggs
2 teaspoons baking powder

Chop suet and work with the hand until creamy, then add figs. Soak bread crumbs in milk, add eggs well beaten, sugar, salt, and spices. Combine mixtures, add nut meats and raisins dredged with flour. Sprinkle over baking powder and beat thoroughly. Turn into a buttered mould, steam three hours, and serve with Yellow Sauce II (see p. 407), flavored with brandy.

403

### Hunters’ Pudding

1 cup finely chopped suet
1 cup molasses
1 cup milk
3 cups flour
1 teaspoon soda
1½ teaspoons salt
Clove | ½ teaspoon each
Mace
Allspice
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1½ cups raisins
2 tablespoons flour

Mix same as Suet Pudding. Stone, cut, and flour raisins, and add to mixture. Then steam.

### French Fruit Pudding

1 cup finely chopped suet
1 cup molasses
1 cup sour milk
1½ teaspoons soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon clove
½ teaspoon salt
1¼ cups raisins, seeded
and chopped
¾ cup currants
2¾ cups flour
Mrs. Carrie M. Dearborn

Add molasses and sour milk to suet; add two cups flour mixed and sifted with soda, salt, and spices; add fruit mixed with remaining flour. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam four hours. Serve with Sterling Sauce.

### Fig Pudding I

⅓ lb. beef suet
½ lb. figs, finely chopped
2⅓ cups stale bread crumbs
½ cup milk
2 eggs
1 cup sugar
¾ teaspoon salt

Chop suet, and work with the hands until creamy, then add figs. Soak bread crumbs in milk, add eggs well beaten, sugar, and salt. Combine mixtures, turn into a buttered mould, steam three hours. Serve with Yellow Sauce I or II.

### Fig Pudding II

¼ lb. suet
½ lb. figs (finely chopped)
1 large sour apple (cored, pared, and chopped)
¼ lb. brown sugar
¼ lb. bread crumbs
¼ cup milk
2 eggs
3 oz. flour

Cream the suet, and add figs, apple, and sugar. Pour milk over bread crumbs, and add yolks of eggs, well beaten; 404combine mixtures, add flour and whites of eggs beaten until stiff. Turn into buttered pudding mould, and steam four hours. Serve with Lemon Sauce III.

### English Plum Pudding I

½ lb. stale bread crumbs
1 cup scalded milk
¼ lb. sugar
4 eggs
½ lb. raisins, seeded, cut
in pieces, and floured
¼ lb. currants
¼ lb. finely chopped figs
2 oz. finely cut citron
½ lb. suet
¼ cup wine and brandy mixed
½ teaspoon grated nutmeg
¾ teaspoon cinnamon
⅓ teaspoon clove
⅓ teaspoon mace
1½ teaspoons salt

Soak bread crumbs in milk, let stand until cool, add sugar, beaten yolks of eggs, raisins, currants, figs, and citron; chop suet, and cream by using the hand; combine mixtures, then add wine, brandy, nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, mace, and whites of eggs beaten stiff. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam six hours.

### English Plum Pudding II

6 ozs. flour
6 ozs. stale bread crumbs
¾ lb. raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
¾ lb. currants
¾ lb. suet, finely chopped
10 ozs. sugar
1 cup molasses
3 ozs. candied orange peel, finely cut
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon mace
6 eggs, well beaten
2 teaspoons salt

Mix ingredients in order given, turn into a thickly floured square of unbleached cotton cloth. Tie securely, leaving some space to allow the pudding to swell, and plunge into a kettle of boiling water. Cook five hours, allowing pudding to be immersed in water during the entire cooking. Serve with Hard and Liquid Sauce.

Hard Sauce. Cream one-third cup butter; add gradually one cup brown sugar and two tablespoons brandy, drop by drop. Force through a pastry bag with rose tube, and garnish with green leaves and candied cherries.

Liquid Sauce. Mix one-half cup sugar, one-half tablespoon 405corn-starch, and a few grains salt. Add gradually, while stirring constantly, one cup boiling water, and boil five minutes. Remove from fire, add one tablespoon lemon juice and two tablespoons brandy; then color with fruit red.

406

## CHAPTER XXIV
PUDDING SAUCES

### Lemon Sauce I

¾ cups sugar
¼ cup water
2 teaspoons butter
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water eight minutes; remove from fire; add butter and lemon juice.

### Lemon Sauce II

½ cup sugar
1 cup boiling water
1 tablespoon corn-starch or
1½ tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons butter
1½ tablespoons lemon juice
Few gratings nutmeg
Few grains salt

Mix sugar and corn-starch, add water gradually, stirring constantly; boil five minutes, remove from fire, add butter, lemon juice, and nutmeg.

### Lemon Sauce III

⅓ cup butter
1 cup sugar
Yolks 3 eggs
⅓ cup boiling water
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Few gratings lemon rind

Cream butter, add sugar gradually, and yolks of eggs, slightly beaten; then add water, and cook over boiling water until mixture thickens. Remove from range, add lemon juice and rind. Serve with Apple Pudding or Pop-overs.

### Vanilla Sauce

Make same as Lemon Sauce II, using one teaspoon vanilla in place of lemon juice and nutmeg.

407

### Molasses Sauce

1 cup molasses
1½ tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons lemon juice or
1 tablespoon vinegar

Boil molasses and butter five minutes; remove from fire and add lemon juice.

### Cream Sauce I

¾ cup thick cream
¼ cup milk
⅓ cup powdered sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla

Mix cream and milk, beat until stiff, using egg-beater; add sugar and vanilla.

### Cream Sauce II

1 egg
1 cup powdered sugar
½ cup thick cream
¼ cup milk
½ teaspoon vanilla

Beat white of egg until stiff; add yolk of egg well beaten, and sugar gradually; dilute cream with milk, beat until stiff, combine mixtures, and flavor.

### Yellow Sauce I

2 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla or
½ teaspoon vanilla and
1 teaspoon brandy

Beat eggs until very light, add sugar gradually and continue beating; then flavor.

### Yellow Sauce II

2 eggs
1 cup powdered sugar
3 tablespoons wine

Beat yolks of eggs until thick, add one-half the sugar gradually; beat whites of eggs until stiff, add gradually remaining sugar; combine mixtures, and add wine.

### Orange Sauce

Whites 3 eggs
1 cup powdered sugar
Juice and rind 2 oranges
Juice 1 lemon

Beat whites until stiff, add sugar gradually, and continue beating; add rind and fruit juices.

408

### Strawberry Sauce

⅓ cup butter
⅔ cup strawberries
1 cup powdered sugar
White 1 egg

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg beaten until stiff, and strawberries. Beat until fruit is mashed.

### Creamy Sauce I

¼ cup butter
½ cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons wine

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and milk and wine drop by drop. If liquids are added too fast the sauce will have a curdled appearance.

### Creamy Sauce II

Use same proportions as given in recipe I. If not careful in adding liquids, it will curdle; but this will make no difference, as the sauce is to be warmed over hot water. By careful watching and constant stirring, the ingredients will be perfectly blended; it should be creamy in consistency.

### Foamy Sauce I

½ cup butter
1 cup powdered sugar
1 egg
2 tablespoons wine

Cream the butter, add gradually sugar, egg well beaten, and wine; beat while heating over hot water.

### Foamy Sauce II

Whites 2 eggs
1 cup powdered sugar
¼ cup hot milk
1 teaspoon vanilla

Beat eggs until stiff, add sugar gradually, and continue beating; add milk and vanilla.

### Chocolate Sauce

2 cups milk
1½ tablespoons corn-starch
2 squares Baker’s chocolate
4 tablespoons powdered sugar
2 tablespoons hot water
2 eggs
⅔ cup powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla

Scald one and three-fourths cups milk, add corn-starch diluted with remaining milk, and cook eight minutes in 409double boiler; melt chocolate over hot water, add four tablespoons sugar and hot water, stir until smooth, then add to cooked mixture; beat whites of eggs until stiff, add gradually powdered sugar and continue beating, then add unbeaten yolks, and stir into cooked mixture; cook one minute, add vanilla, and cool before serving.

### Sabyon Sauce

Grated rind and juice ½ lemon
½ cup white wine or
¼ cup Sherry
⅓ cup sugar
2 eggs

Mix lemon, wine, sugar, and yolks of eggs; stir vigorously over fire until it thickens, using a wire whisk; pour on to whites of eggs beaten stiff.

### Hard Sauce

⅓ cup butter
1 cup powdered sugar
⅓ teaspoon lemon extract
⅔ teaspoon vanilla

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and flavoring.

### Sterling Sauce

½ cup butter
1 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla or
2 tablespoons wine
4 tablespoons cream or milk

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and milk and flavoring drop by drop to prevent separation.

### Wine Sauce

½ cup butter
1 cup powdered sugar
3 tablespoons Sherry or Madeira wine
Slight grating nutmeg

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and wine slowly; pile on glass dish, and sprinkle with grated nutmeg.

### Brandy Sauce

¼ cup butter
1 cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoon brandy
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
½ cup milk or cream

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, then brandy very slowly, well beaten yolks, and milk or cream. Cook over 410hot water until it thickens as a custard, pour on to beaten whites.

### Caramel Brandy Sauce

Make same as Brandy Sauce, substituting brown sugar in place of powdered sugar.

### Apricot Sauce

¾ cup apricot pulp
¾ cup heavy cream
Sugar

Drain canned apricots from their syrup, and rub through a sieve. Beat cream until stiff, add to apricot pulp, and sweeten to taste. Serve with German toast.

411

## CHAPTER XXV
COLD DESSERTS

### Irish Moss Blanc-Mange

⅓ cup Irish moss
4 cups milk
¼ teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons vanilla

Soak moss fifteen minutes in cold water to cover, drain, pick over, and add to milk; cook in double boiler thirty minutes; the milk will seem but little thicker than when put on to cook, but if cooked longer blanc-mange will be too stiff. Add salt, strain, flavor, re-strain, and fill individual moulds previously dipped in cold water; chill, turn on glass dish, surround with thin slices of banana, and place a slice on each mould. Serve with sugar and cream.

### Chocolate Blanc-Mange

Irish Moss Blanc-Mange flavored with chocolate. Melt one and one-half squares Baker’s chocolate, add one-fourth cup sugar and one-third cup boiling water, stir until perfectly smooth, adding to milk just before taking from fire. Serve with sugar and cream.

### Rebecca Pudding

4 cups scalded milk
½ cup corn-starch
¼ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup cold milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
Whites 3 eggs

Mix corn-starch, sugar, and salt, dilute with cold milk, add to scalded milk, stirring constantly until mixture thickens, afterwards occasionally; cook fifteen minutes. Add flavoring and whites of eggs beaten stiff, mix thoroughly, mould, chill, and serve with Yellow Sauce I or II.

412

### Moulded Snow

Make same as Rebecca Pudding, and serve with Chocolate Ice.

### Chocolate Cream

2 cups scalded milk
5 tablespoons corn-starch
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
⅓ cup cold milk
1½ squares Baker’s chocolate
3 tablespoons hot water
Whites 3 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla

Mix corn-starch, sugar, and salt, dilute with cold milk, add to scalded milk, and cook over hot water ten minutes, stirring constantly until thickened; melt chocolate, add hot water, stir until smooth, and add to cooked mixture; add whites of eggs beaten stiff, and vanilla. Mould, chill, and serve with cream.

### Pineapple Pudding

2¾ cups scalded milk
¼ cup cold milk
⅓ cup corn-starch
¼ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
½ can grated pineapple
Whites 3 eggs

Follow directions for Rebecca Pudding, and add pineapple just before moulding. Fill individual moulds, previously dipped in cold water. Serve with cream.

### Caramel Junket

2 cups milk
⅓ cup sugar
⅓ cup boiling water
1 junket tablet
Few grains salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
Whipped cream, sweetened and flavored
Chopped nut meats

Heat milk until lukewarm. Caramelize sugar, add boiling water, and cook until syrup is reduced to one-third cup. Cool, and add milk slowly to syrup. Reduce junket tablet to powder, using a small mallet, add to mixture, with salt and vanilla. Turn into a glass dish, let stand in warm place until set, then chill. Cover with whipped cream and sprinkle with chopped nuts.

413

### Boiled Custard

2 cups scalded milk
Yolks 3 eggs
¼ cup sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon vanilla

Beat eggs slightly, add sugar and salt; stir constantly while adding gradually hot milk. Cook in double boiler, continue stirring until mixture thickens and a coating is formed on the spoon, strain immediately; chill and flavor. If cooked too long the custard will curdle; should this happen, by using a Dover egg-beater it may be restored to a smooth consistency, but custard will not be as thick. Eggs should be beaten slightly for custard, that it may be of smooth, thick consistency. To prevent scum from forming, cover with a perforated tin. When eggs are scarce, use yolks two eggs and one-half tablespoon corn-starch.

### Tipsy Pudding

Flavor Boiled Custard with Sherry wine, and pour over slices of stale sponge cake; cover with Cream Sauce I or II.

### Peach Custard

Arrange alternate layers of stale cake and sections of canned peaches in glass dish and pour over Boiled Custard. Bananas may be used instead of peaches; it is then called Banana Custard.

### Orange Custard

Arrange slices of sweet oranges in glass dish, pour over them Boiled Custard; chill, and cover with Meringue I.

### Apple Meringue

Use Meringue I and pile lightly on baked apples, brown in oven, cool, and serve with Boiled Custard. Canned peaches, drained from their liquor, may be prepared in the same way.

### Apple Snow

Whites 3 eggs
¾ cup apple pulp
Powdered sugar

Pare, quarter, and core four sour apples, steam until soft, and rub through sieve; there should be three-fourths cup 414apple pulp. Beat on a platter whites of eggs until stiff (using wire whisk), add gradually apple sweetened to taste, and continue beating. Pile lightly on glass dish, chill, and serve with Boiled Custard.

### Prune Whip

⅓ lb. prunes
Whites 5 eggs
½ cup sugar
½ tablespoon lemon juice

Pick over and wash prunes, then soak several hours in cold water to cover; cook in same water until soft; remove stones and rub prunes through a strainer, add sugar, and cook five minutes; the mixture should be of the consistency of marmalade. Beat whites of eggs until stiff, add prune mixture gradually when cold, and lemon juice. Pile lightly on buttered pudding-dish, bake twenty minutes in slow oven. Serve cold with Boiled Custard.

### Raspberry Whip

1¼ cups raspberries
1 cup powdered sugar
White 1 egg

Put ingredients in bowl and beat with wire whisk until stiff enough to hold in shape; about thirty minutes will be required for beating. Pile lightly on dish, chill, surround with lady fingers, and serve with Boiled Custard.

Strawberry Whip may be prepared in same way.

### Baked Custard

4 cups scalded milk
4 to 6 eggs
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
Few gratings nutmeg

Beat eggs slightly, add sugar and salt, pour on slowly scalded milk; strain in buttered mould, set in pan of hot water. Sprinkle with nutmeg, and bake in slow oven until firm, which may be readily determined by running a silver knife through custard; if knife comes out clean, custard is done. During baking, care must be taken that water surrounding mould does not reach boiling-point, or custard will whey. Always bear in mind that eggs and milk in combination must be cooked at a low temperature. For cup custards 415allow four eggs to four cups milk; for large moulded custard, six eggs; if less eggs are used custard is liable to crack when turned on a serving dish.

### Caramel Custard

4 cups scalded milk
5 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
½ cup sugar

Put sugar in omelet pan, stir constantly over hot part of range until melted to a syrup of light brown color. Add gradually to milk, being careful that milk does not bubble up and go over, as is liable on account of high temperature of sugar. As soon as sugar is melted in milk, add mixture gradually to eggs slightly beaten; add salt and flavoring, then strain in buttered mould. Bake as custard. Chill, and serve with Caramel Sauce.

### Caramel Sauce

½ cup sugar
½ cup boiling water
Miss Parloa

Melt sugar as for Caramel Custard, add water, simmer ten minutes; cool before serving.

### Coffee Custard

2 cups milk
2 tablespoons ground coffee
3 eggs
¼ cup sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon vanilla

Scald milk with coffee, and strain. Beat eggs slightly; add sugar, salt, vanilla, and milk. Strain into buttered individual moulds, set in pan of hot water, and bake until firm.

### Tapioca Cream

¼ cup pearl tapioca or 1½ tablespoons Minute Tapioca
2 cups scalded milk
2 eggs
⅓ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla

Pick over tapioca and soak one hour in cold water to cover, drain, add to milk, and cook in double boiler until tapioca is transparent. Add half the sugar to milk and 416remainder to egg yolks slightly beaten, and salt. Combine by pouring hot mixture slowly on egg mixture, return to double boiler, and cook until it thickens. Remove from range and add whites of eggs beaten stiff. Chill and flavor.

### Norwegian Prune Pudding

½ lb. prunes
2 cups cold water
1 cup sugar
1 inch piece stick cinnamon
1⅓ cups boiling water
⅓ cup corn-starch
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Pick over and wash prunes, then soak one hour in cold water, and boil until soft; remove stones, obtain meat from stones and add to prunes; then add sugar, cinnamon, boiling water, and simmer ten minutes. Dilute corn-starch with enough cold water to pour easily, add to prune mixture, and cook five minutes. Remove cinnamon, mould, then chill, and serve with cream.

### Nut Prune Soufflé

Follow recipe for Norwegian Prune Pudding, then add whites two eggs beaten stiff and one-half cup walnut meats broken in pieces.

### Apples in Bloom

Select eight red apples, cook in boiling water until soft, turning them often. Have water half surround apples. Remove skins carefully, that the red color may remain, and arrange on serving dish. To the water add one cup sugar, grated rind one-half lemon, and juice one orange; simmer until reduced to one cup. Cool, and pour over apples. Serve with Cream Sauce I or II.

### Neapolitan Baskets

Bake sponge cake in gem pans, cool, and remove centres. Fill with Cream Sauce I, flavoring half the sauce with chocolate. Melt chocolate, dilute with hot water, cool, and add Cream Sauce slowly to chocolate. Garnish with candied cherries and angelica and insert strips of angelica to represent handles.

417

### Wine Cream

Arrange lady fingers or slices of sponge cake in a dish, pour over cream made as follows: Mix one-third cup sugar, grated rind and juice one-half lemon, one-fourth cup Sherry wine, and yolks of two eggs; place over fire and stir vigorously with wire whisk until it thickens and is frothy, then pour over beaten whites of two eggs and continue beating.

### Orange Salad

Arrange layers of sliced oranges, sprinkling each layer with powdered sugar and shredded cocoanut. Sliced oranges when served alone should not stand long after slicing, as they are apt to become bitter.

### Fruit Salad I

Arrange alternate layers of shredded pineapple, sliced bananas, and sliced oranges, sprinkling each layer with powdered sugar. Chill before serving.

To Shred Pineapple. Pare and cut out eyes, pick off small pieces with a silver fork, continuing until all soft part is removed. To Slice Oranges. Remove skin and white covering, slice lengthwise that the tough centre may not be served; seeds should be removed.

### Fruit Salad II

Pare a pineapple and cut in one-quarter inch slices, remove hard centres, sprinkle with powdered sugar, set aside one hour in a cool place; drain, spread on serving dish, arrange a circle of thin slices of banana on each piece, nearly to the edge, pile strawberries in centre, pour over syrup drained from pineapple, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve with or without Cream Sauce.

### Fruit Salad with Wine Dressing

Arrange alternate layers of sliced fruit, using pineapples, bananas, oranges, and grapes; pour over all Wine Dressing, and let stand one hour in a cold place.

### Wine Dressing

Mix one-half cup sugar, one-third cup Sherry wine, and two tablespoons Madeira.

418

### Cream Whips

Sweeten thin cream, flavor with vanilla, brandy, or wine, then whip; half fill frappé glasses with any preserve, pile on lightly the whip.

### Sautéd Pears with Chocolate Sauce

Pare four Bartlett pears, cut in fourths lengthwise, and sauté in butter until browned. Canned pears drained from their syrup may be used in place of fresh fruit. Arrange in serving dish and pour over

Chocolate Sauce. Cook two ounces sweet chocolate, one tablespoon sugar, and one and one-fourth cups milk in double boiler five minutes; then add one teaspoon arrowroot mixed with one-fourth cup cream and a few grains salt, and cook ten minutes. Melt one and one-half tablespoons butter, add one-fourth cup powdered sugar, and cook until well caramelized, stirring constantly. Add to first mixture, and flavor with one-half teaspoon vanilla. Chill thoroughly.

### Lemon Jelly

½ box gelatine or
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
½ cup cold water
2½ cups boiling water
1 cup sugar
½ cup lemon juice

Soak gelatine twenty minutes in cold water, dissolve in boiling water, strain, and add to sugar and lemon juice. Turn into mould, and chill.

### Orange Jelly

½ box gelatine or
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
½ cup cold water
1½ cups boiling water
1 cup sugar
1½ cups orange juice
3 tablespoons lemon juice

Make same as Lemon Jelly.

To Remove Juice from Oranges. Cut fruit in halves crosswise, remove with spoon pulp and juice from sections, and strain through double cheese-cloth; or use a glass lemon squeezer.

419

### Kumquat Jelly

1½ cups kumquat juice
½ cup sugar
¼ cup Sauterne
1½ tablespoons Orange Curaçoa
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
2 tablespoons cold water
Few grains salt

Wipe three-fourths box kumquats, cut in slices, add cold water to cover, bring slowly to boiling-point, and cook slowly one-half hour; then strain; there should be one and one-half cups juice. Add sugar, wine, and curaçoa. Soak gelatine in cold water, and add to first mixture heated to boiling-point; then add salt. Strain, turn into individual mould, and chill. Remove to serving dish, and garnish with halves of kumquats, cooked in syrup until soft, drained, and rolled in sugar.

### Coffee Jelly

½ box gelatine or
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
½ cup cold water
1 cup boiling water
⅓ cup sugar
2 cups boiled coffee

Make same as Lemon Jelly. Serve with sugar and cream.

### Cider Jelly

½ box gelatine or
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
½ cup cold water
1 cup boiling water
2 cups cider
Sugar

Make same as Lemon Jelly.

### Wine Jelly I

½ box gelatine or
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
½ cup cold water
1⅔ cups boiling water
1 cup sugar
1 cup Sherry or Madeira wine
⅓ cup orange juice
3 tablespoons lemon juice

Soak gelatine twenty minutes in cold water, dissolve in boiling water; add sugar, wine, orange juice, and lemon juice; strain, mould, and chill. If a stronger jelly is desired, use additional wine in place of orange juice.

420

### Wine Jelly II

½ box gelatine or
2½ tablespoons granulated gelatine
½ cup cold water
1⅔ cups boiling water
1 cup sugar
½ cup Sherry wine
2 tablespoons brandy
Kirsch
⅓ cup orange juice
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Fruit red

Soak gelatine twenty minutes in cold water, dissolve in hot water, add sugar, fruit juices, Sherry, brandy, and enough Kirsch to make one cup of strong liquor, then color with fruit red. Strain, mould, and chill. Serve with or without Cream Sauce I.

### Russian Jelly

¼ box gelatine or
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¼ cup cold water
1 cup boiling water
⅔ cup sugar
½ cup Sauterne
¼ cup orange juice
1½ tablespoons lemon juice

Make same as other jellies, cool slightly, and beat until frothy and firm enough to mould. Turn into mould and chill.

### Jelly in Glasses

Use recipe for Wine or Russian Jelly. Fill Apollinaris glasses three-fourths full, reserving one-fourth of the mixture, which, after cooling, is to be beaten until frothy (using a Dover egg-beater) and placed on top of jelly in glasses which represents freshly drawn lager beer. This is a most attractive way of serving jelly to one who is ill.

### Sauterne Jelly

Soak two tablespoons granulated gelatine in one-half cup cold water, and dissolve in one and one-half cups boiling water. Add one and one-half cups Sauterne, three tablespoons lemon juice, and one cup sugar. Color with leaf green, strain into a shallow pan, chill, and cut in inch cubes.

421

### Jellied Prunes

⅓ lb. prunes
2 cups cold water
Boiling water
½ cup cold water
½ box gelatine or
2½ tablespoons granulated gelatine
1 cup sugar
¼ cup lemon juice

Pick over, wash, and soak prunes for several hours in two cups cold water, and cook in same water until soft; remove prunes; stone, and cut in quarters. To prune water add enough boiling water to make two cups. Soak gelatine in half-cup cold water, dissolve in hot liquid, add sugar, lemon juice, then strain, add prunes, mould, and chill. Stir twice while cooling to prevent prunes from settling. Serve with sugar and cream.

### Jellied Walnuts

¼ box gelatine or
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¼ cup cold water
⅓ cup boiling water
¾ cup sugar
½ cup Sherry wine
½ cup orange juice
3 tablespoons lemon juice

Make same as other jellies and cover bottom of shallow pan with one-half the mixture. When nearly firm, place over it, one inch apart, halves of English walnuts. Cover with remaining mixture. Chill, and cut in squares. Serve with whipped cream sweetened and flavored.

### Apricot and Wine Jelly

½ box gelatine or
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
½ cup cold water
1 cup boiling water
1 cup apricot juice
1 cup wine
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Garnish individual moulds with halves of canned apricots, fill with mixture made same as for other jellies, and chill. Arrange on serving dish and garnish with whipped cream forced through a pastry bag and tube.

422

### Snow Pudding I

¼ box gelatine or
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¼ cup cold water
1 cup boiling water
1 cup sugar
¼ cup lemon juice
Whites 3 eggs

Soak gelatine in cold water, dissolve in boiling water, add sugar and lemon juice, strain, and set aside in cool place; occasionally stir mixture, and when quite thick, beat with wire spoon or whisk until frothy; add whites of eggs beaten stiff, and continue beating until stiff enough to hold its shape. Mould, or pile by spoonfuls on glass dish; serve cold with Boiled Custard. A very attractive dish may be prepared by coloring half the mixture with fruit red.

### Snow Pudding II

Beat whites of four eggs until stiff, add one-half tablespoon granulated gelatine dissolved in three tablespoons boiling water, beat until thoroughly mixed, add one-fourth cup powdered sugar, and flavor with one-half teaspoon lemon extract. Pile lightly on dish, serve with Boiled Custard.

### Amber Pudding

Make as Snow Pudding I, using cider instead of boiling water, and one-fourth cup boiling water to dissolve gelatine, omitting lemon juice, and sweeten to taste.

### Toasted Marshmallows

1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1 cup boiling water
1 cup sugar
Whites 3 eggs
1½ teaspoons vanilla
Macaroons

Dissolve gelatine in boiling water, add sugar, and as soon as dissolved set bowl containing mixture in pan of ice-water; then add whites of eggs and vanilla and beat until mixture thickens. Turn into a shallow pan, first dipped in cold water, and let stand until thoroughly chilled. Remove from pan and cut in pieces the size and shape of marshmallows; then roll in macaroons which have been dried and rolled. Serve with sugar and cream.

Toasted Marshmallows.—Page 422.

Royal Diplomatic Pudding.—Page 430.

Charlotte Russe.—Page 427.

Orange Trifle garnished with Whipped Cream, Candied Orange Peel, and Blossoms.—Page 427.

423

### Pudding à la Macédoine

Make fruit or wine jelly mixture. Place a mould in pan of ice-water, pour in mixture one-half inch deep; when firm, decorate with slices of banana from which radiate thin strips of figs (seed side down), cover fruit, adding mixture by spoonfuls lest the fruit be disarranged. When firm, add more fruit and mixture; repeat until all is used, each time allowing mixture to stiffen before fruit is added. In preparing this dish various fruits may be used: oranges, bananas, dates, figs, and English walnuts. Serve with Cream Sauce I.

### Fruit Chartreuse

Make fruit or wine jelly mixture. Place a mould in pan of ice-water, pour in mixture one-half inch deep; when firm, decorate with candied cherries and angelica; add by spoonfuls more mixture to cover fruit; when this is firm, place a smaller mould in centre on jelly, and fill with ice-water. Pour gradually remaining jelly mixture between moulds; when firm, invert to empty smaller mould of ice-water; then pour in some tepid water; let stand a few seconds, when small mould may easily be removed. Fill space thus made with fresh sweetened fruit, using shredded pineapple, sliced bananas, and strawberries.

### Spanish Cream

¼ box gelatine or
1 tablespoon granulated gelatin
3 cups milk
Whites 3 eggs
Yolk 3 eggs
½ cup sugar (scant)
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla or
3 tablespoons wine

Scald milk with gelatine, add sugar, pour slowly on yolks of eggs slightly beaten. Return to double boiler and cook until thickened, stirring constantly; remove from range, add salt, flavoring, and whites of eggs beaten stiff. Turn into individual moulds, first dipped in cold water, and chill; serve with cream. More gelatine will be required if large moulds are used.

424

### Coffee Soufflé

1½ cups coffee infusion
½ cup milk
⅔ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
3 eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine

Mix coffee infusion, milk, one-half of the sugar and gelatine, and heat in double boiler. Add remaining sugar, salt, and yolks of eggs slightly beaten; cook until mixture thickens, remove from range, add whites of eggs beaten until stiff and vanilla. Mould, chill, and serve with cream.

### Columbian Pudding

Cover the bottom of a fancy mould with Wine Jelly. Line the upper part of mould with figs, cut in halves crosswise, which have been soaked in jelly, having seed side next to mould. Fill centre with Spanish Cream; chill, and turn on a serving dish. Garnish with cubes of Wine Jelly.

### Macaroon Cream

¼ box gelatine or
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¼ cup cold water
2 cups scalded milk
Yolks 3 eggs
⅓ cup sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup pounded macaroons
1 teaspoon vanilla
Whites 3 eggs

Soak gelatine in cold water. Make custard of milk, yolks of eggs, sugar, and salt; add gelatine, and strain into pan set in ice-water. Add macaroons and flavoring, stirring until it begins to thicken; then add whites of eggs beaten stiff, mould, chill, and serve garnished with macaroons.

### Cold Cabinet Pudding

¼ box gelatine or
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¼ cup cold water
2 cups scalded milk
Yolks 3 eggs
⅓ cup sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon brandy
5 lady fingers
6 macaroons

Soak gelatine in cold water and add to custard made of milk, eggs, sugar, salt; strain, cool slightly, and flavor. 425Place a mould in pan of ice-water, decorate with candied cherries and angelica, cover with mixture, added carefully by spoonfuls; when firm, add layer of lady fingers (first soaked in custard), then layer of macaroons (also soaked in custard); repeat, care being taken that each layer is firm before another is added. Garnish, and serve with Cream Sauce I and candied cherries.

### Mont Blanc

Remove shells from three cups French chestnuts, cook in small quantity of boiling water until soft, when there will be no water remaining. Mash, sweeten to taste with powdered sugar, and moisten with hot milk; cook two minutes. Rub through strainer, cool, flavor with vanilla, Kirsch or Maraschino. Pile in form of pyramid, cover with Cream Sauce I, garnish base with Cream Sauce I forced through pastry bag and tube.

French Chef

### Crême aux Fruits

¼ box gelatine or
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¼ cup cold water
¼ cup scalded milk
½ cup sugar
Whites 2 eggs
½ pint thick cream
⅓ cup milk
⅓ cup cooked prunes,
cut in pieces
⅓ cup chopped figs

Soak gelatine in cold water, dissolve in scalded milk, and add sugar. Strain in pan set in ice-water, stir constantly, and when it begins to thicken add whites of eggs beaten stiff, cream (diluted with milk and beaten), prunes, and figs. Mould and chill.

### To Whip Cream

Thin and heavy cream are both used in making and garnishing desserts.

Heavy cream is bought in half-pint, pint, and quart glass jars, and usually retails at sixty cents per quart; thin or strawberry cream comes in glass jars or may be bought in bulk, and usually retails for thirty cents per quart. Heavy cream is very rich; for which reason, when whipped without 426being diluted, it is employed as a garnish; even when so used, it is generally diluted with one-fourth to one-third its bulk in milk; when used in combination with other ingredients for making desserts, it is diluted from one-half to two-thirds its bulk in milk. Thin cream is whipped without being diluted. Cream should be thoroughly chilled for whipping. Turn cream to be whipped into a bowl (care being taken not to select too large a bowl), and set in pan of crushed ice, to which water is added that cream may be quickly chilled; without addition of water, cream will not be so thoroughly chilled.

For whipping heavy cream undiluted, or diluted with one-third or less its bulk in milk, use Dover egg-beater; undiluted heavy cream if beaten a moment too long will come to butter. Heavy cream diluted, whipped, sweetened, and flavored, is often served with puddings, and called Cream Sauce.

Thin cream is whipped by using a whip churn, as is heavy cream when diluted with one-half to two-thirds its bulk in milk. Place churn in bowl containing cream, hold down cover with left hand, with right hand work dasher with quick downward and slow upward motions; avoid raising dasher too high in cylinder, thus escaping spattering of cream. The first whip which appears should be stirred into cream, as air bubbles are too large and will break; second whip should be removed by spoonfuls to a strainer, strainer to be placed in a pan, as some cream will drain through. The first cream which drains through may be turned into bowl to be rewhipped, and continue whipping as long as possible.

There will be some cream left in bowl which does not come above perforations in whip churn, and cannot be whipped. Cream which remains may be scalded and used to dissolve gelatine when making desserts which require gelatine. Cream should treble its bulk in whipping. By following these directions one need have no difficulty, if cream is of right consistency; always bearing in mind heavy cream must be whipped with a Dover egg-beater; thin cream must be whipped with a churn.

427

### Charlotte Russe

¼ box gelatine or
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¼ cup cold water
⅓ cup scalded cream
⅓ cup powdered sugar
Whip from 3½ cups thin cream
1½ teaspoons vanilla
6 lady fingers

Soak gelatine in cold water, dissolve in scalded cream, strain into a bowl, and add sugar and vanilla. Set bowl in pan of ice-water and stir constantly until it begins to thicken, then fold in whip from cream, adding one-third at a time. Should gelatine mixture become too thick, melt over hot water, and again cool before adding whip. Trim ends and sides of lady fingers, place around inside of a mould, crust side out, one-half inch apart. Turn in mixture, and chill. Serve garnished with cubes of Wine Jelly. Charlotte Russe is sometimes made in individual moulds; these are often garnished on top with some of mixture forced through a pastry bag and tube. Individual moulds are frequently lined with thin slices of sponge cake cut to fit moulds.

### Orange Trifle

½ box gelatine or
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
½ cup cold water
½ cup boiling water
1 cup sugar
1 cup orange juice
Grated rind 1 orange
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Whip from 3½ cups cream

Make same as Charlotte Russe, and mould; or make orange jelly, color with fruit red, and cover bottom of mould one-half inch deep; chill, and when firm fill with Orange Trifle mixture. Cool remaining jelly in shallow pan, cut in cubes, and garnish base of mould.

### Banana Cantaloupe

½ box gelatine or
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
½ cup cold water
Whites 2 eggs
¼ cup powdered sugar
¾ cup scalded cream
⅔ cup sugar
4 bananas, mashed pulp
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Whip from 3½ cups cream
12 lady fingers

Soak gelatine in cold water, beat whites of eggs slightly, add powdered sugar, and gradually hot cream, cook over 428hot water until it thickens; add soaked gelatine and remaining sugar, strain into a pan set in ice-water, add bananas and lemon juice, stir until it begins to thicken, then fold in whip from cream. Line a melon mould with lady fingers trimmed to just fit sections of mould, turn in the mixture, spread evenly, and chill.

### Chocolate Charlotte

¼ box gelatine or
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¼ cup cold water
⅓ cup scalded cream
1½ squares Baker’s chocolate
3 tablespoons hot water
⅔ cup powdered sugar
Whip from 3 cups cream
1 teaspoon vanilla
6 lady fingers

Melt chocolate by placing in a small saucepan set in a larger saucepan of boiling water, add half the sugar, dilute with boiling water, and add to gelatine mixture while hot. Proceed same as in recipe for Charlotte Russe.

### Caramel Charlotte Russe

¼ box gelatine or
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¼ cup cold water
½ cup scalded cream
⅓ cup sugar, caramelized
¼ cup powdered sugar
1½ teaspoons vanilla
Whip from 3½ cups cream
6 lady fingers

Make same as Charlotte Russe, adding caramelized sugar to scalded cream before putting into gelatine mixture.

### Burnt Almond Charlotte

½ box gelatine or
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
½ cup cold water
¾ cup scalded milk
½ cup sugar
½ cup sugar, caramelized
¾ cup blanched and finely chopped almonds
1 teaspoon vanilla
Whip from 3½ cups cream
6 lady fingers

Make same as Caramel Charlotte Russe, adding nuts before folding in cream.

429

### Ginger Cream

¼ box gelatine or
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¼ cup cold water
1 cup milk
Yolks 2 eggs
¼ cup sugar
Few grains salt
1 tablespoon wine
½ tablespoon brandy
2 tablespoons ginger syrup
¼ cup Canton ginger, cut in pieces
Whip from 2½ cups cream

Soak gelatine, and add to custard made of milk, eggs, sugar, and salt. Strain, chill in pan of ice-water, add flavorings, and when it begins to thicken fold in whip from cream.

### Orange Charlotte

⅓ box gelatine or
1⅓ tablespoons granulated gelatine
⅓ cup cold water
⅓ cup boiling water
1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup orange juice and pulp
Whites 3 eggs
Whip from 2 cups cream

Soak gelatine in cold water, dissolve in boiling water, strain, and add sugar, lemon juice, orange juice, and pulp. Chill in pan of ice-water; when quite thick, beat with wire spoon or whisk until frothy, then add whites of eggs beaten stiff, and fold in cream. Line a mould with sections of oranges, turn in mixture, smooth evenly, and chill.

### Strawberry Sponge

⅓ box gelatine or
1⅓ tablespoons granulated gelatine
⅓ cup cold water
⅓ cup boiling water
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 cup strawberry juice
Whites 3 eggs
Whip from 3 cups cream

Make same as Orange Charlotte.

### Orange Baskets

Cut two pieces from each orange, leaving what remains in shape of basket with handle, remove pulp from baskets and pieces, and keep baskets in ice-water until ready to fill. 430From orange juice make orange jelly with which to fill baskets. Serve garnished with Cream Sauce.

### Orange Jelly in Ambush

Cut oranges in halves lengthwise, remove pulp and juice. With juice make Orange Jelly to fill half the pieces. Fill remaining pieces with Charlotte Russe mixture. When both are firm, put together in pairs and tie together with narrow white ribbon.

### Bavarian Cream (Quick)

½ lemon, grated rind and juice
½ cup white wine
⅓ cup sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon granulated gelatine
1 tablespoon cold water

Mix lemon, wine, sugar, and yolks of eggs; stir vigorously over fire until mixture thickens, add gelatine soaked in water, then pour over whites of eggs beaten stiff. Set in pan of ice-water and beat until thick enough to hold its shape. Turn into a mould lined with lady fingers, and chill. Orange juice may be used in place of wine, and the cream served in orange baskets.

### Strawberry Bavarian Cream

Line a mould with large, fresh strawberries cut in halves, fill with Charlotte Russe mixture.

### Pineapple Bavarian Cream

½ box gelatine or
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
½ cup cold water
1 can grated pineapple
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Whip from 3 cups cream

Soak gelatine in cold water. Heat pineapple, add sugar, lemon juice, and soaked gelatine; chill in pan of ice-water, stirring constantly; when it begins to thicken, fold in whip from cream, mould, and chill.

### Royal Diplomatic Pudding

Place mould in pan of ice-water and pour in Wine Jelly II one-half inch deep. When firm, decorate with candied cherries 431and angelica, proceed as for Fruit Chartreuse, filling the centre with Charlotte Russe mixture or Fruit Cream.

### Fruit Cream

Peel four bananas, mash, and rub through a sieve; add pulp and juice of two oranges, one tablespoon lemon juice, one tablespoon Sherry wine, two-thirds cup powdered sugar, and one and one-fourth tablespoons granulated gelatine dissolved in one-fourth cup boiling water. Cool in ice-water, stirring constantly, and fold in whip from two cups cream.

### Ivory Cream

¾ tablespoon granulated gelatine
1 tablespoon cold water
2 tablespoons boiling water
3 cups cream
4 tablespoons powdered sugar
3 tablespoons Madeira wine

Soak gelatine in cold water, dissolve in boiling water, and add sugar and wine. Strain into a bowl, set in pan of ice-water, and beat until mixture thickens slightly. Add to mixture whip from cream, and beat until mixture is thick enough to hold its shape. Mould and chill. Garnish with Sauterne Jelly.

### Pudding à l’Adrea

2 cups thin cream
1½ tablespoons granulated gelatine
2 tablespoons cold water
¾ cup sugar
Whites 4 eggs
3 tablespoons Sherry
1½ tablespoons Sauterne
Sauterne jelly mixture

Make one-half recipe for Sauterne Jelly (see p. 420), allowing one and one-third tablespoons granulated gelatine. Color one-half green and one-half red. Fill sections of a fancy mould alternately with green and red jelly. In the green jelly mould pistachio nuts cut in quarters; in red jelly glacéd cherries cut in quarters.

Scald cream, add gelatine soaked in cold water, then add whites of eggs beaten until stiff; add sugar. Remove from range, set in pan of ice-water, and stir occasionally until mixture thickens; then add flavoring and turn into mould. Chill thoroughly and remove from mould.

432

### French Easter Cream

⅓ cup raisins
¼ cup brandy
2 cups cream
½ cup sugar
Yolks 3 eggs
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
2 tablespoons cold water
Maraschino | ¼ cup each
Slow gin
Brandy
1 teaspoon vanilla

Seed raisins, add brandy, and cook in double boiler until raisins are soft. Make a custard of cream, sugar, egg yolks and salt. Remove from range, add gelatine soaked in cold water. Strain, cool slightly, add flavorings, stir until mixture thickens, then add raisins. Mould and chill. Remove from mould, and garnish with Sauterne Jelly (colored violet), cut in cubes, and fresh violets.

### Marshmallow Pudding à la Stanley

½ pound marshmallows
1 cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon vanilla
¼ cup candied cherries
½ cup English walnut meats
2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Soak cherries in rum to cover one hour, then cut in pieces. Cut walnut meats and marshmallows in small pieces. Whip cream, add sugar and vanilla, fold in remaining ingredients. Mould and chill.

433

## CHAPTER XXVI
ICES, ICE CREAMS, AND OTHER FROZEN DESSERTS

Ices and other frozen dishes comprise the most popular desserts. Hygienically speaking, they cannot be recommended for the final course of a dinner, as cold mixtures reduce the temperature of the stomach, thus retarding digestion until the normal temperature is again reached. But how cooling, refreshing, and nourishing, when properly taken, and of what inestimable value in the sick room!

Frozen dishes include:—

Water ice,—fruit juice sweetened, diluted with water, and frozen.

Sherbet,—water ice to which is added a small quantity of dissolved gelatine or beaten whites of eggs.

Frappé,—water ice frozen to consistency of mush; in freezing, equal parts of salt and ice being used to make it granular.

Punch,—water ice to which is added spirit and spice.

Sorbet,—strictly speaking, frozen punch; the name is often given to a water ice where several kinds of fruit are used.

Philadelphia Ice Cream,—thin cream, sweetened, flavored, and frozen.

Plain Ice Cream,—custard foundation, thin cream, and flavoring.

Mousse,—heavy cream, beaten until stiff, sweetened, flavored, placed in a mould, packed in salt and ice (using two parts crushed ice to one part salt), and allowed to stand three hours; or whip from thin cream may be used folded into mixture containing small quantity of gelatine.

434

### How to Freeze Desserts

The prejudice of thinking a frozen dessert difficult to prepare has long since been overcome. With ice cream freezer, burlap bag, wooden mallet or axe, small saucepan, sufficient ice and coarse rock salt, the process neither takes much time nor patience. Snow may be used instead of ice; if not readily acted on by salt, pour in one cup cold water. Crush ice finely by placing in bag and giving a few blows with mallet or broad side of axe; if there are any coarse pieces, remove them. Place can containing mixture to be frozen in wooden tub, cover, and adjust top. Turn crank to make sure can fits in socket. Allow three level measures ice to one of salt, and repeat until ice and salt come to top of can, packing solidly, using handle of mallet to force it down. If only small quantity is to be frozen, the ice and salt need come only a little higher in the tub than mixture to be frozen. These are found the best proportions of ice and salt to insure smooth, fine-grained cream, sherbet, or water ice, while equal parts of salt and ice are used for freezing frappé. If a larger proportion of salt is used, mixture will freeze in shorter time and be of granular consistency, which is desirable only for frappé.

The mixture increases in bulk during freezing, so the can should never be more than three-fourths filled; by overcrowding can, cream will be made coarse-grained. Turn the crank slowly and steadily to expose as large surface of mixture as possible to ice and salt. After frozen to a mush, the crank may be turned more rapidly, adding more ice and salt if needed; never draw off salt water until mixture is frozen, unless there is possibility of its getting into the can, for salt water is what effects freezing; until ice melts, no change will take place. After freezing is accomplished, draw off water, remove dasher, and with spoon pack solidly. Put cork in opening of cover, then put on cover. Re-pack freezer, using four measures ice to one of salt. Place over top newspapers or piece of carpet; when serving time comes, remove can, wipe carefully, and place in vessel of cool water; let stand one minute, remove cover, and run a knife around 435edge of cream, invert can on serving dish, and frozen mixture will slip out. Should there be any difficulty, a cloth wrung out of hot water, passed over can, will aid in removing mixture.

### To Line a Mould

Allow mould to stand in salt and ice until well chilled. Remove cover, put in mixture by spoonfuls, and spread with back of spoon or a case knife evenly three-quarters inch thick.

### To Mould Frozen Mixtures

When frozen mixtures are to be bricked or moulded, avoid freezing too hard. Pack mixture solidly in moulds and cover with buttered paper, buttered side up. Have moulds so well filled that mixture is forced down sides of mould when cover is pressed down. Re-pack in salt and ice, using four parts ice to one part salt. If these directions are carefully followed, one may feel no fear that salt water will enter cream, even though moulds be immersed in salt water.

### Lemon Ice

4 cups water
2 cups sugar
¾ cup lemon juice

Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar twenty minutes; add lemon juice; cool, strain, and freeze. See directions for freezing, page 434.

### Cup St. Jacques

Serve Lemon Ice in champagne glasses. Put three-fourths teaspoon Maraschino in each glass, and garnish with bananas cut in one-fourth inch slices, and slices cut in quarters, candied cherries cut in halves, Malaga grapes from which skins and seeds have been removed, and angelica cut in strips.

### Orange Ice

4 cups water
2 cups sugar
2 cups orange juice
¼ cup lemon juice
Grated rind of two oranges

Make syrup as for Lemon Ice; add fruit juice and grated rind; cool, strain, and freeze.

436

### Maraschino Ice

Prepare Orange Ice mixture, freeze to a mush, flavor with Maraschino, and finish freezing. Serve in frappé glasses.

### Pomegranate Ice

Same as Orange Ice, made from blood oranges.

### Raspberry Ice I

4 cups water
1⅔ cups sugar
2 cups raspberry juice
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Make a syrup as for Lemon Ice, cool, add raspberries mashed, and squeezed through double cheese-cloth, and lemon juice; strain and freeze.

### Raspberry Ice II

1 quart raspberries
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
Lemon juice

Sprinkle raspberries with sugar, cover, and let stand two hours. Mash, squeeze through cheese-cloth, add water and lemon juice to taste, then freeze. Raspberry ice prepared in this way retains the natural color of the fruit.

### Strawberry Ice I

4 cups water
1½ cups sugar
2 cups strawberry juice
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice I.

### Strawberry Ice II

1 quart box strawberries
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
Lemon juice

Make same as Raspberry Ice II.

### Currant Ice

4 cups water
1½ cups sugar
2 cups currant juice

Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice I.

### Raspberry and Currant Ice

4 cups water
1⅓ cups sugar
⅔ cup raspberry juice
1⅓ cups currant juice

Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice I.

437

### Crême de Menthe Ice

4 cups water
1 cup sugar
⅓ cup Crême de Menthe cordial
Burnett’s Leaf Green

Make a syrup as for Lemon Ice, add cordial and coloring; strain and freeze.

### Icebergs

Dissolve two cups sugar in three cups boiling water; cool, add three-fourths cup lemon juice, color with leaf green, and freeze. Serve in champagne glasses. Put one teaspoon Crême de Menthe in each glass, and sprinkle with finely chopped nut meats, using almonds, filberts, pecans, and walnuts in equal proportions. These may be used after the roast and before the game.

### Canton Sherbet

4 cups water
1 cup sugar
¼ lb. Canton ginger
½ cup orange juice
⅓ cup lemon juice

Cut ginger in small pieces, add water and sugar, boil fifteen minutes; add fruit juice, cool, strain, and freeze. To be used in place of punch at a course dinner. This quantity is enough to serve twelve persons.

### Milk Sherbet

4 cups milk
1½ cups sugar
Juice 3 lemons

Mix juice and sugar, stirring constantly while slowly adding milk; if added too rapidly mixture will have a curdled appearance, which is unsightly, but will not affect the quality of sherbet; freeze and serve.

### Frozen Chocolate with Whipped Cream

2 squares Baker’s chocolate
1 cup sugar
Few grains salt
1 cup boiling water
3 cups rich milk

Scald milk. Melt chocolate in small saucepan placed over hot water, add one-half the sugar, salt, and gradually 438boiling water. Boil one minute, add to scalded milk with remaining sugar. Cool, freeze, and serve in glasses. Garnish with whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla.

### Pineapple Frappé

2 cups water
1 cup sugar
Juice 3 lemons
2 cups ice-water
1 can grated pineapple or
1 pineapple shredded

Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar fifteen minutes; add pineapple and lemon juice; cool, strain, add ice-water, and freeze to a mush, using equal parts ice and salt. If fresh fruit is used, more sugar will be required.

### Pineapple Sorbet

2 cups water
2 cups sugar
1 can grated pineapple or
1 pineapple shredded
1⅓ cups orange juice
½ cup lemon juice
1 quart Apollinaris

Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé.

### Sicilian Sorbet

1 can peaches
1 cup sugar
2 cups orange juice
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Press peaches through a sieve, add sugar and fruit juices. Freeze and serve.

### Italian Sorbet

4 cups water
2 cups sugar
1½ cups orange juice
1½ cups grape fruit juice
½ cup lemon juice
¼ cup wine

Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé.

### Apricot Sorbet

1 can apricots
1 cup sugar
½ cup wine
¼ cup lemon juice
1 pint cream

Drain apricots, and add to syrup the pulp rubbed through a sieve. Add sugar, wine, and lemon juice. Freeze to a mush, then fold in the whip obtained from cream. Let stand one and one-half hours, and serve in glasses.

439

### Café Frappé

White 1 egg
½ cup cold water
½ cup ground coffee
4 cups boiling water
1 cup sugar

Beat white of egg slightly, add cold water, and mix with coffee; turn into scalded coffee-pot, add boiling water, and let boil one minute; place on back of range ten minutes; strain, add sugar, cool, and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé. Serve in frappé glasses, with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored.

### Cranberry Frappé

1 quart cranberries
2 cups water
2 cups sugar
Juice 2 lemons

Cook cranberries and water eight minutes; then force through a sieve. Add sugar and lemon juice, and freeze to a mush, using equal parts of ice and salt.

### Grape Frappé

4 cups water
2 cups sugar
2 cups grape juice
⅔ cup orange juice
¼ cup lemon juice

Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé.

### Pomona Frappé

1½ cups sugar
4 cups water
1 quart sweet cider
2 cups orange juice
½ cup lemon juice

Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water twenty minutes. Add cider, orange juice, and lemon juice. Cool, strain, and freeze to a mush.

### Clam Frappé

20 clams
½ cup cold water

Wash clams thoroughly, changing water several times; put in stewpan with cold water, cover closely, and steam until shells open. Strain the liquor, cool, and freeze to a mush.

440

### Frozen Cranberries

4 cups cranberries
2¼ cups sugar
1½ cups boiling water

Pick over and wash cranberries, add water and sugar, and cook ten minutes, skimming during the cooking. Rub through a sieve, cool, and pour into one-pound baking-powder boxes. Pack in salt and ice, using equal parts, and let stand four hours. If there is not sufficient mixture to fill two boxes, add water to make up the desired quantity. Serve as a substitute for cranberry sauce or jelly.

### Frozen Apricots

1 can apricots
1½ cups sugar
Water

Drain apricots, and cut in small pieces. To the syrup add enough water to make four cups, and cook with sugar five minutes; strain, add apricots, cool, and freeze. Peaches may be used instead of apricots. To make a richer dessert, add the whip from two cups cream when frozen to a mush, and continue freezing.

### Pineapple Cream

2 cups water
1 cup sugar
1 can grated pineapple
2 cups cream

Make syrup by boiling sugar and water fifteen minutes; strain, cool, add pineapple, and freeze to a mush. Fold in whip from cream; let stand thirty minutes before serving. Serve in frappé glasses and garnish with candied pineapple.

### Cardinal Punch

4 cups water
2 cups sugar
⅔ cup orange juice
⅓ cup lemon juice
¼ cup brandy
¼ cup Curaçoa
¼ cup tea infusion

Make syrup as for Lemon Ice, add fruit juice and tea, freeze to a mush; add strong liquors and continue freezing. Serve in frappé glasses.

441

### Punch Hollandaise

4 cups water
1⅓ cups sugar
⅓ cup lemon juice
Rind one lemon
1 can grated pineapple
¼ cup brandy
2 tablespoons gin

Cook sugar, water, and lemon rind fifteen minutes, add lemon juice and pineapple, cool, strain, freeze to a mush, add strong liquors, and continue freezing. Serve in frappé glasses on a plate covered with a doily.

### Victoria Punch

3½ cups water
2 cups sugar
½ cup lemon juice
½ cup orange juice
Grated rind two oranges
1 cup angelica wine
1 cup cider
1½ tablespoons gin

Prepare same as Cardinal Punch; strain before freezing, to remove orange rind.

### Lenox Punch

2 cups water
¾ cup sugar
⅔ tumbler currant jelly
Ice
1 cup orange juice
½ cup lemon juice
2 bottles ginger ale
⅓ cup brandy

Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water fifteen minutes. Add jelly, and, as soon as dissolved, add a piece of ice to cool mixture; then add fruit juices, ale, and brandy. Color red, freeze to a mush, serve in glasses, and insert in each glass a small sprig of holly with berries.

### German Punch

2 cups water
1¾ cups tomatoes
3 apples, cored, pared, and chopped
1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Piece ginger root
3 tablespoons Maraschino

Mix ingredients, except cordial, and cook thirty-five minutes. Rub through a sieve, add Maraschino, and freeze to a mush.

442

### London Sherbet

2 cups sugar
2 cups water
⅓ cup seeded and finely cut raisins
¾ cup orange juice
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup fruit syrup
¼ grated nutmeg
¼ cup port wine
Whites 3 eggs

Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes; pour over raisins, cool, and add fruit syrup and nutmeg; freeze to a mush, then add wine and whites of eggs beaten stiff, and continue freezing. Serve in glasses. Fruit syrup may be used which has been left from canned peaches, pears, or strawberries.

### Roman Punch

4 cups water
2 cups sugar
½ cup lemon juice
½ cup orange juice
½ cup tea infusion
½ cup rum

Prepare and freeze same as Cardinal Punch.

### Coup Sicilienne

1 shredded pineapple
3 oranges (pulp)
3 bananas sliced
2 tablespoons Maraschino
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Few grains salt
Powdered sugar

Mix ingredients, sweeten to taste, and chill. Serve in champagne glasses having glasses two-thirds full. Cover fruit to fill glasses with Strawberry Ice II and garnish with strawberries and angelica.

### Coup a l’Ananas

Cut canned sliced pineapple in pieces, pour over pineapple syrup to which is added Orange Curaçoa, allowing one-half as much syrup as fruit, cover and let stand one hour. Fill champagne glasses one-third full, add vanilla ice cream to fill glasses, and garnish with candied cherries and candied pineapple cut in pieces.

### Vanilla Ice Cream I (Philadelphia)

1 quart thin cream
¾ cup sugar
1½ tablespoons vanilla

Mix ingredients, and freeze.

Coup Sicilienne. Coup a l’Ananas.—Page 442.

Coffee Ice Cream served in half of Cantaloupe.—Page 445.
Vanilla Ice Cream served in half of Cantaloupe with
Fruit Garnish.—Page 442.

Bombe Glacée.—Page 452.

Junket Ice Cream with Peaches.—Page 448.

443

### Vanilla Ice Cream II

2 cups scalded milk
1 tablespoon flour
1 cup sugar
1 egg
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 quart thin cream
2 tablespoons vanilla

Mix flour, sugar, and salt, add egg slightly beaten, and milk gradually; cook over hot water twenty minutes, stirring constantly at first; should custard have curdled appearance, it will disappear in freezing. When cool, add cream and flavoring; strain and freeze.

### Chocolate Sauce I

(To be served with Vanilla Ice Cream)

1½ cups water
½ cup sugar
6 tablespoons grated chocolate
1 tablespoon arrowroot
½ cup cold water
Few grains salt
½ teaspoon vanilla

Boil water and sugar five minutes. Mix chocolate with arrowroot to which water has been added. Combine mixtures, add salt, and boil three minutes. Flavor with vanilla, and serve hot.

### Chocolate Sauce II

1 square Baker’s chocolate
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon butter
⅓ cup water
½ teaspoon vanilla

Melt chocolate; add butter, sugar, and water. Let boil fifteen minutes, cool slightly, and add vanilla.

### Coffee Sauce

(To be served with Vanilla Ice Cream)

1½ cups milk
½ cup ground coffee
⅓ cup sugar
¾ tablespoon arrowroot
Few grains salt

Scald milk with coffee, and let stand twenty minutes. Mix remaining ingredients, and pour on gradually the hot infusion which has been strained. Cook five minutes, and serve hot.

444

### Vanilla Ice Cream Croquettes

Shape Vanilla Ice Cream in individual moulds, roll in macaroon dust made by pounding and sifting dry macaroons.

### Chocolate Ice Cream I

1 quart thin cream
1 cup sugar
Few grains salt
1½ squares Baker’s chocolate or
¼ cup prepared cocoa
1 tablespoon vanilla

Melt chocolate, and dilute with hot water to pour easily, add to cream; then add sugar, salt, and flavoring, and freeze.

### Chocolate Ice Cream II

Use recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream II. Melt two squares Baker’s chocolate, by placing in a small saucepan set in a larger saucepan of boiling water, and pour hot custard slowly on chocolate; then cool before adding cream.

### Strawberry Ice Cream I

3 pints thin cream
2 boxes berries
2 cups sugar
Few grains salt

Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, cover, and let stand two hours. Mash, and squeeze through cheese-cloth; then add salt. Freeze cream to the consistency of a mush, add gradually fruit juice, and finish freezing. Rich Jersey milk may be substituted for cream.

### Strawberry Ice Cream II

3 pints thin cream
2 boxes strawberries
1¾ cups sugar
2 cups milk
1½ tablespoons arrowroot

Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, let stand one hour, mash, and rub through strainer. Scald one and one-half cups milk; dilute arrowroot with remaining milk, add to hot milk, and cook ten minutes in double boiler; cool, add cream, freeze to a mush, add fruit, and finish freezing.

445

### Orange Ice Cream

1 cup heavy cream
1 cup thin cream
2 cups orange juice
Sugar

Add cream slowly to orange juice, sweeten to taste, and freeze. Serve with canned strawberries or fresh fruit mashed and sweetened.

### Pineapple Ice Cream

3 pints cream
½ cup sugar
1 can grated pineapple

Add pineapple to cream, let stand thirty minutes; strain, add sugar, and freeze.

### Coffee Ice Cream

1 quart cream
1½ cups milk
⅓ cup Mocha coffee
1¼ cups sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
Yolks 4 eggs

Scald milk with coffee, add one cup sugar; mix egg yolks slightly beaten with one-fourth cup sugar, and salt; combine mixtures, cook over hot water until thickened, add one cup cream, and let stand on back of range twenty-five minutes; cool, add remaining cream, and strain through double cheese-cloth; freeze. Coffee Ice Cream may be served with Maraschino cherries or in halves of cantaloupes.

### Caramel Ice Cream

1 quart cream
2 cups milk
1⅓ cups sugar
1 egg
1 tablespoon flour
⅛ teaspoon salt
1½ tablespoons vanilla

Prepare same as Vanilla Ice Cream II, using one-half sugar in custard; remaining half caramelize, and add slowly to hot custard. See Caramelization of Sugar, page 586.

### Burnt Almond Ice Cream

It is made same as Caramel Ice Cream, with the addition of one cup finely chopped blanched almonds.

446

### Brown Bread Ice Cream

3 pints cream
1¼ cups dried brown bread crumbs
⅞ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt

Soak crumbs in one quart cream, let stand fifteen minutes, rub through sieve, add sugar, salt, and remaining cream; then freeze.

### Bisque Ice Cream

Make custard as for Vanilla Ice Cream II, add one quart cream, one tablespoon vanilla, and one cup hickory nut or English walnut meats finely chopped.

### Burnt Walnut Bisque

2 cups scalded milk
Yolks 3 eggs
1 cup sugar
⅔ cup chopped walnut meats
1 cup heavy cream
¾ tablespoon vanilla
Few grains salt

Make custard of milk, eggs, one-third of the sugar, and salt. Caramelize remaining sugar, add nut meats, and turn into a slightly buttered pan. Cool, pound, and pass through a purée strainer. Add to custard, cool, then add one cup heavy cream, beaten until stiff, and vanilla. Freeze and mould.

### Praline Ice Cream

3 pints cream
1⅓ cups sugar
1 cup Jordan almonds
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vanilla

Blanch almonds cut in pieces crosswise, and bake in a shallow pan until well browned, shaking pan frequently; then finely chop. Caramelize one-half of the sugar, and add slowly to two cups of the cream scalded. As soon as sugar is melted, add nuts, remaining sugar, and salt. Cool, add remaining cream, and freeze. A few grains salt is always an improvement to any ice cream mixture.

447

### Macaroon Ice Cream

1 quart cream
1 cup macaroons
¾ cup sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla

Dry, pound, and measure macaroons; add to cream, sugar, and vanilla, then freeze.

### Banana Ice Cream

1 quart cream
4 bananas
1⅓ tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup sugar
A few grains salt

Remove skins and scrape bananas, then force through a sieve; add remaining ingredients; then freeze.

### Ginger Ice Cream

To recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream II, using one-half quantity vanilla, add one-half cup Canton ginger cut in small pieces, three tablespoons ginger syrup, and two tablespoons Sherry wine; then freeze.

### Pistachio Ice Cream

Prepare same as Vanilla Ice Cream II, using for flavoring one tablespoon vanilla and one teaspoon almond extract; color with Burnett’s Leaf Green.

### Pistachio Bisque

To Pistachio Ice Cream add one-half cup each of pounded macaroons, chopped almonds, and peanuts. Mould, and serve with or without Claret Sauce.

### Fig Ice Cream

3 cups milk
1 cup sugar
Yolks 5 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1 lb. figs, finely chopped
1½ cups heavy cream
Whites 5 eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla
2 tablespoons brandy

Make custard of yolks of eggs, sugar, and milk; strain, add figs, cool, and flavor. Add whites of eggs beaten until stiff and heavy cream beaten until stiff; freeze and mould.

448

### Junket Ice Cream with Peaches

4 cups lukewarm milk
1 cup heavy cream
1¼ cups sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
1½ Junket Tablets
1 tablespoon cold water
1 tablespoon vanilla
1 teaspoon almond extract
Green Coloring
1 can peaches

Mix first four ingredients, and add junket tablets dissolved in cold water. Turn into a pudding-dish and let stand until set. Add flavoring and coloring. Freeze, mould, and serve garnished with halves of peaches, filling cavities with halves of blanched almonds. Turn peaches into a saucepan, add one-third cup sugar, and cook slowly until syrup is thick. Cool before garnishing ice cream.

### Violet Ice Cream

1 quart cream
¾ cup sugar
Few grains salt
⅓ cup Yvette Cordial
1 small bunch violets
Violet coloring

Mix first four ingredients. Remove stems from violets, and pound violets in a mortar until well macerated, then strain through cheese-cloth. Add extract to first mixture; color, freeze, and mould. Serve garnished with fresh or candied violets; the light purple cultivated violets should be used and the result will be most gratifying.

### Neapolitan or Harlequin Ice Cream

Two kinds of ice cream and an ice moulded in a brick.

### Baked Alaska

Whites 6 eggs
6 tablespoons powdered sugar
2 quart brick of ice cream
Thin sheet sponge cake

Make meringue of eggs and sugar as in Meringue I, cover a board with white paper, lay on sponge cake, turn ice cream on cake (which should extend one-half inch beyond cream), cover with meringue, and spread smoothly. Place on oven grate and brown quickly in hot oven. The board, paper, cake, and meringue are poor conductors of 449heat, and prevent the cream from melting. Slip from paper on ice cream platter.

### Pudding Glacé

2 cups milk
⅔ cup raisins
1 cup sugar
1 egg
1 tablespoon flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1 quart thin cream
½ cup almonds
½ cup candied pineapple
⅓ cup Canton ginger
3 tablespoons wine

Scald raisins in milk fifteen minutes, strain, make custard of milk, egg, sugar, flour, and salt; strain, cool, add pineapple, ginger cut in small pieces, nuts finely chopped, wine, and cream; then freeze. The raisins should be rinsed and saved for a pudding.

### Frozen Pudding I

2½ cups milk
1 cup sugar
⅛ teaspoonful salt
2 eggs
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup rum
1 cup candied fruit, cherries, pineapples, pears, and apricots

Cut fruit in small pieces, and soak two or three hours in brandy to cover, which prevents fruit from freezing; make a custard of milk, sugar, salt, and eggs; strain, cool, add cream and rum, then freeze. Fill a brick mould with alternate layers of the cream and fruit; pack in salt and ice and let stand two hours.

### Frozen Pudding II

1 quart cream
¾ cup sugar
¼ cup rum
1 cup candied fruit
8 lady fingers

Cut fruit in pieces, and soak several hours in brandy to cover. Mix cream, sugar, and rum, then freeze. Line a two-quart melon mould with lady fingers, crust side down; fill with alternate layers of the cream and fruit, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Brandied peaches cut in pieces, with some of their syrup added, greatly improve the pudding.

450

### Frozen Tom and Jerry

2 cups milk
¾ cup sugar
Yolks 6 eggs
⅛ teaspoon salt
2½ cups cream
2 tablespoons rum
1 tablespoon brandy

Make a custard of first four ingredients; strain, cool, add cream, and freeze to a mush. Add rum and brandy, and finish the freezing.

### University Pudding

Prepare same as Frozen Tom and Jerry. Freeze to a mush, add one cup mixed fruit which has been soaked in brandy to cover for twelve hours, using glacé cherries, Sultana raisins, sliced citron, and candied pineapple; then finish freezing. Serve in small beer jugs, and garnish with cream, whipped, sweetened, and flavored.

### Covington Cream

¾ cup sugar
½ cup Formosa tea infusion
⅓ cup rum
1 quart cream

Mix ingredients, and freeze to a mush. Serve in frappé glasses.

### Delmonico Ice Cream with Angel Food

2 cups milk
¾ cup sugar
Yolks 7 eggs
⅛ teaspoon salt
2½ cups thin cream
1 tablespoon vanilla
1 teaspoon lemon

Make custard of milk, sugar, eggs, and salt; cool, strain, and flavor; whip cream, remove whip; there should be two quarts; add to custard, and freeze. Serve plain or with Angel Food.

### Angel Food

Whites 3 eggs
½ cup powdered sugar
1 quart cream whip
1½ teaspoons vanilla

Beat eggs until stiff, fold in sugar, cream whip, and flavoring; line a mould with Delmonico Ice Cream, fill with the mixture, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours.

451

### Manhattan Pudding

1½ cups orange juice
¼ cup lemon juice
Sugar
1 pint heavy cream
½ cup powdered sugar
½ tablespoon vanilla
⅔ cup chopped walnut meats

Mix fruit juices and sweeten to taste. Turn mixture in brick mould. Whip cream, and add sugar, vanilla, and nut meats; pour over the first mixture to overflow mould; cover with buttered paper, fit on cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.

### Sultana Roll with Claret Sauce

Line one-pound baking-powder boxes with Pistachio Ice Cream; sprinkle with Sultana raisins which have been soaked one hour in brandy; fill centres with Vanilla Ice Cream or whipped cream, sweetened, and flavored with vanilla; cover with Pistachio Ice Cream; pack in salt and ice, and let stand one and one-half hours.

### Claret Sauce

1 cup sugar
¼ cup water
⅓ cup claret

Boil sugar and water eight minutes; cool slightly, and add claret.

### Angel Parfait

1 cup sugar
¾ cup water
Whites 3 eggs
1 pint heavy cream
1 tablespoon vanilla

Boil sugar and water until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon. Pour slowly on the beaten whites of eggs, and continue the beating until mixture is cool. Add cream beaten until stiff, and vanilla; then freeze.

### Café Parfait

1 cup milk
¼ cup Mocha coffee
Yolks 3 eggs
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
3 cups thin cream

Scald milk with coffee, and add one-half the sugar; without straining, use this mixture for making custard, with 452eggs, salt, and remaining sugar; add one cup cream and let stand thirty minutes; cool, strain through double cheese-cloth, add remaining cream, and freeze. Line a mould, fill with Italian Meringue, cover, pack in salt and ice, using two parts crushed ice to one part rock salt, and let stand three hours.

### Italian Meringue

½ cup sugar
¼ cup water
1 tablespoon gelatine or
¼ teaspoon granulated gelatine
Whites 3 eggs
1 cup thin cream
½ tablespoon vanilla

Make syrup by boiling sugar and water; pour slowly on beaten whites of eggs, and continue beating. Place in pan of ice-water, and beat until cold; dissolve gelatine in small quantity boiling water; strain into mixture; whip cream, fold in whip, and flavor.

### Bombe Glacée

Line a mould with sherbet or water ice; fill with ice cream or thin Charlotte Russe mixture; cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. The mould may be lined with ice cream. Pomegranate or Raspberry Ice and Vanilla or Macaroon Ice Cream make a good combination.

### Noisette Bomb

Strawberry Ice I
½ cup sugar
½ cup chopped blanched filberts
¾ cup hot caramel syrup
Yolks 4 eggs
1⅓ cups heavy cream
½ tablespoon vanilla
Few grains salt

Caramelize sugar, add nut meats, turn into a buttered pan, cool, then pound in mortar and put through a purée strainer. Beat egg yolks until thick, add gradually caramel syrup, and cook in double boiler until mixture thickens, then beat until cold. Fold in cream beaten until stiff. Then add prepared nut meats, vanilla, and salt. Line melon mould with ice, turn in mixture, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.

453

### Nesselrode Pudding

3 cups milk
1½ cups sugar
Yolks 5 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
1 pint thin cream
¼ cup pineapple syrup
1½ cups prepared French chestnuts

Make custard of first four ingredients, strain, cool, add cream, pineapple syrup, and chestnuts; then freeze. To prepare chestnuts, shell, cook in boiling water until soft, and force through a strainer. Line a two-quart melon mould with part of mixture; to remainder add one-half cup candied fruit cut in small pieces, one-quarter cup Sultana raisins, and eight chestnuts broken in pieces, first soaked several hours in Maraschino syrup. Fill mould, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Serve with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with Maraschino syrup.

### Pistachio Fruit Ice Cream

3 cups milk
1½ cups sugar
Yolks 5 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
1 pint heavy cream
1½ cups chestnut purée
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 tablespoon vanilla
¾ cup glacé fruits
Maraschino
Leaf Green

Make a custard of first four ingredients, strain, cool; add cream, chestnut purée, flavoring, and glacé fruit cut in pieces and previously soaked in Maraschino three hours. Color with leaf green; freeze, mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Serve with

Fruit Sauce. Drain syrup from a pint jar of canned strawberry, raspberry, or pineapple, heat to boiling-point, thicken slightly with arrowroot, and color with fruit red.

### Nougat Ice Cream

3 cups milk
1 cup sugar
Yolks 5 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1½ cups heavy cream
Whites 5 eggs
⅓ cup, each, pistachio, filbert, English walnut, and almond meats
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 tablespoon vanilla

Make a custard of first four ingredients, strain, and cool. Add heavy cream beaten until stiff, whites of eggs beaten 454until stiff, nut meats finely chopped, and flavoring; then freeze.

### Orange Pekoe Ice Cream

2 cups milk
3 tablespoons Orange Pekoe tea
1½ cups sugar
Yolks 4 eggs
¼ teaspoon salt
Grated rind 1 orange
1 pint heavy cream

Scald milk to which tea had been added, and let stand five minutes. Add sugar, and egg yolks slightly beaten, and cook until mixture thickens. Strain, add remaining ingredients, freeze, and mould. Serve garnished with Candied Orange Peel (p. 547).

### Orange Delicious

2 cups sugar
1 cup water
2 cups orange juice
1 cup cream
Yolks two eggs
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup shredded candied orange peel

Boil sugar and water eight minutes, then add orange juice. Scald cream, add yolks of eggs, and cook over hot water until mixture thickens. Cool, add to first mixture with heavy cream beaten stiff. Freeze; when nearly frozen, add orange peel. Line a melon mould with Orange Ice, fill with Orange Delicious, pack in salt and ice, and let stand one and one-half hours.

### Strawberry Mousse

1 quart thin cream
1 box strawberries
1 cup sugar
¼ box gelatine (scant) or
1¼ tablespoons granulated gelatine
2 tablespoons cold water
3 tablespoons hot water

Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, and let stand one hour; mash, and rub through a fine sieve; add gelatine soaked in cold and dissolved in boiling water. Set in pan of ice-water and stir until it begins to thicken; then fold in whip from cream, put in mould, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours. Raspberries may be used in place of strawberries.

### Coffee Mousse

Make same as Strawberry Mousse, using one cup boiled coffee in place of fruit juice.

455

### Pineapple Mousse

1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
¼ cup cold water
1 cup pineapple syrup
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup sugar
1 quart cream

Heat one can pineapple, and drain. To one cup of the syrup, add gelatine soaked in cold water, lemon juice, and sugar. Strain and cool. As mixture thickens, fold in the whip from cream. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours.

### Chocolate Mousse

2 squares Baker’s chocolate
½ cup powdered sugar
1 cup cream
¾ tablespoon granulated gelatine
3 tablespoons boiling water
¾ cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 quart cream

Melt chocolate, add powdered sugar, and gradually one cup cream. Stir over fire until boiling-point is reached, then add gelatine dissolved in boiling water, sugar, and vanilla. Strain mixture into a bowl, set in a pan of ice-water, stir constantly until mixture thickens, then fold in the whip from remaining cream. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours.

### Maple Parfait

4 eggs
1 cup hot maple syrup
1 pint thick cream

Beat eggs slightly, and pour on slowly maple syrup. Cook until mixture thickens, cool, and add cream beaten until stiff. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.

### Mousse Marron

1 quart vanilla ice cream
½ cup sugar
¼ cup water
Whites two eggs
1 teaspoon granulated gelatine
1½ cups prepared French chestnuts
1 pint cream
½ tablespoon vanilla

Cook sugar and water five minutes, pour on to beaten whites of eggs, dissolve gelatine in one and one-half tablespoons boiling water, and add to first mixture. Set in a pan of ice-water, and stir until cold; add chestnuts, and fold in whip from cream and vanilla. Line a mould with ice cream, 456and fill with mixture; cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.

### Cardinal Mousse, with Iced Madeira Sauce

Line a mould with Pomegranate Ice; fill with Italian Meringue made of three-fourths cup sugar, one-third cup hot water, whites two eggs, and one and one-half teaspoons granulated gelatine dissolved in two tablespoons boiling water. Beat until cold, and fold in whip from two cups cream; flavor with one teaspoon vanilla, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.

### Iced Madeira Sauce

¼ cup orange juice
2 tablespoons lemon juice
½ cup Madeira wine
½ cup sugar
1 cup boiling water
Whites 2 eggs

Freeze fruit juice and wine; boil sugar and water, pour on slowly to beaten whites of eggs, set in pan of salted ice-water, and stir until cold. Add to frozen mixture.

### Cocoanut Naples, Sauterne Sauce

Shape vanilla ice cream in individual moulds, and roll in shredded cocoanut; serve with

### Sauterne Sauce

1 cup sugar
½ cup water
4 tablespoons Sauterne
Burnett’s Leaf Green

Make same as Claret Sauce, and color with leaf green.

### Ice à la Margot

Serve vanilla ice cream in champagne glasses. Cover ice cream with whipped cream, sweetened, flavored with pistachio, and tinted very light green. Garnish with pistachio nuts or Malaga grapes cut in halves.

### Coup aux Marrons

Break marron glacé in pieces, flavor with rum, cover, and let stand one hour. Put in champagne glasses, allowing one and one-half marrons to each glass, cover with vanilla ice 457cream, and garnish with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla, and candied rose leaves.

### Plombière Glacé

Cover the bottom of small paper cases with vanilla ice cream, sprinkle ice cream with marron glacé broken in pieces, arrange lady fingers at equal distances, and allow them to extend one inch above cases. Pile whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, in the centre and garnish with marron glacé and candied violets or glacé cherries.

### Demi-glacé aux Fraises

Line a brick mould with Vanilla Ice Cream, put in layer of lady fingers, and fill the centre with preserved strawberries or large fresh fruit cut in halves; cover with ice cream, pack in salt and ice, and let stand one hour. For ice cream, make custard of two and one-half cups milk, yolks four eggs, one cup sugar, and one-fourth teaspoon salt; strain, cool, add one cup heavy cream and one tablespoon vanilla; then freeze.

### Mazarine

Bake Brioche in a Charlotte Russe mould or individual tins, cool, cut a slice from top of cake or cakes, and remove centre or centres, leaving a wall or walls one-half inch thick. Fill with rich Vanilla Ice Cream, invert on serving dish, and pour over

Apricot Marmalade. Drain one can apricots and force the fruit through a strainer. Cook syrup until sufficiently reduced to add to fruit, and make of consistency of marmalade. Add a few drops lemon juice and sugar if necessary. Decorate top with halves of apricots, glacé cherries, and whipped cream.

### Flowering Ice Cream

Line two and one-half inch flower-pots with paraffine paper. Fill with ice cream, cover cream with grated vanilla chocolate to represent earth, and insert a flower in each.

458

### Concord Cream

1 pint cream
1¼ cups grape juice
⅓ cup sugar
Lemon or fresh lime juice
½ cup heavy cream
Pistachio nuts, finely chopped

Mix cream, grape juice, and sugar. Add lemon or lime juice to taste. Freeze, and serve in glasses. Garnish with heavy cream beaten until stiff, sweetened, and flavored. Sprinkle cream with nuts.

### German Ice Cream

Mix one and one-fourth cups sugar, one tablespoon flour, and one-fourth teaspoon salt. Add two eggs slightly beaten and two cups scalded milk. Cook over hot water until mixture thickens, then add two squares melted chocolate, and cool. Add three cups cream and one tablespoon vanilla. Strain and freeze. Just before serving add three cups zweiback dried and broken in small pieces.

### Frozen Orange Soufflé

1½ cups orange juice
1½ cups sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Yolks 5 eggs
1½ teaspoons granulated gelatine
3 tablespoons boiling water
2½ cups cream
Candied orange peel
Pistachio nuts

Mix fruit juice, sugar, and yolks of eggs. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens, then add gelatine dissolved in boiling water. Cool, freeze to a mush, add whip from cream, and continue freezing. Mould, and serve garnished with candied orange peel and pistachio nuts.

### Biscuit Tortoni in Boxes

1 cup dried macaroons, finely crushed
2 cups thin cream
½ cup sugar
⅓ cup sherry
1 pint heavy cream

Soak macaroons in thin cream one hour, add sugar, wine, and freeze to a mush; then add heavy cream beaten stiff. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours.

Trim lady fingers, arrange on plate in form of box. Keep in place with ribbon one-half inch wide, and fasten at 459one corner by tying ribbon in a bow. Garnish opposite corner with flowers of same color as ribbon. Remove ice cream from brick, cut a slice three-fourths inch thick, and place it in box.

### Frozen Soufflé Glacé

4 eggs
Grated rind 1 lemon
⅔ cup sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ cup Madeira wine
Few grains salt
⅔ cup heavy cream

Beat yolks of eggs slightly; add lemon juice, grated rind, wine, sugar, and salt; cook until mixture thickens, stirring constantly. Add whites of eggs beaten stiff, and when well mixed, set in a pan of ice-water to cool, stirring occasionally. Beat cream until stiff, and add. Fill small paper cases with mixture, cover with macaroon dust, and set in a tin mould with tight-fitting cover. Pack mould in salt and ice, and let stand two hours.

### Frozen Plum Pudding

2 cups milk
1 cup sugar
Yolks 6 eggs
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ cup sherry
2½ cups cream
¾ cup candied fruit
½ cup almonds, blanched and chopped
⅓ cup Sultana raisins
½ cup pounded macaroons

Make custard of milk, one-half the sugar, egg yolks, and salt. Caramelize the remaining sugar and add. Strain, cool, add remaining ingredients, freeze, and mould. If a baked ice cream is desired, use whites of eggs for meringue, Baked Alaska (see p. 448).

### Frozen Charlotte Glacé

Mould ice cream in brick form or one-half pound baking-powder boxes. Remove from mould or moulds, and surround with lady fingers, trimmed to come to top of cream. Cover top with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, and pipe cream between lady fingers. Baking-powder boxes are used when individual service is desired, the cream being cut in halves crosswise.

460

## CHAPTER XXVII
PASTRY

Pastry cannot be easily excluded from the menu of the New Englander. Who can dream of a Thanksgiving dinner without a pie! The last decade has done much to remove pies from the daily bill of fare, and in their place are found delicate puddings and seasonable fruits.

If pastry is to be served, have it of the best,—light, flaky, and tender.

To pastry belongs, 1st, Puff Paste; 2d, Plain Paste.

Puff paste, which to many seems so difficult of preparation, is rarely attempted by any except professionals. As a matter of fact, one who has never handled a rolling-pin is less liable to fail, under the guidance of a good teacher, than an old cook, who finds it difficult to overcome the bad habit of using too much force in rolling. It is necessary to work rapidly and with a light touch. A cold room is of great advantage.

For making pastry, pastry flour and the best shortenings, thoroughly chilled, are essential. Its lightness depends on the amount of air enclosed and expansion of that air in baking. The flakiness depends upon kind and amount of shortening used. Lard makes more tender crust than butter, but lacks flavor which butter gives. Puff paste is usually shortened with butter, though some chefs prefer beef suet. Eggs and ice were formerly used, but are not essentials.

Butter should be washed if pastry is to be of the best, so as to remove salt and buttermilk, thus making it of a waxy consistency, easy to handle.

Utensils and Materials for the making of Puff Paste.—Page 461.

Calvé Tarts.—Page 479.

Patties Garnished with pastry rings and parsley.—Page 462.

English Meat Pie.—Page 228.

461 Rules for Washing Butter. Scald and chill an earthen bowl. Heat palms of hands in hot water, and chill in cold water. By following these directions, butter will not adhere to bowl nor hands. Wash butter in bowl by squeezing with hands until soft and waxy, placing bowl under a cold-water faucet and allowing water to run. A small amount of butter may be washed by using a wooden spoon in place of the hands.

For rolling paste, use a smooth wooden board, and wooden rolling-pin with handles.

Puff paste should be used for vol-au-vents, patties, rissoles, bouchées, cheese straws, tarts, etc. It may be used for rims and upper crusts of pies, but never for lower crusts. Plain paste may be used where pastry is needed, except for vol-au-vents and patties.

### Puff Paste

1 pound butter
1 pound pastry flour
Cold water

Wash the butter, pat and fold until no water flies. Reserve two tablespoons of butter, and shape remainder into a circular piece one-half inch thick, and put on floured board. Work two tablespoons of butter into flour with the tips of fingers of the right hand. Moisten to a dough with cold water, turn on slightly floured board, and knead one minute. Cover with towel, and let stand five minutes.

Pat and roll one-fourth inch thick, keeping paste a little wider than long, and corners square. If this cannot be accomplished with rolling-pin, draw into shape with fingers. Place butter on centre of lower half of paste. Cover butter by folding upper half of paste over it. Press edges firmly, to enclose as much air as possible.

Fold right side of paste over enclosed butter, the left side under enclosed butter. Turn paste half-way round, cover, and let stand five minutes. Pat, and roll one-fourth inch thick, having paste longer than wide, lifting often to prevent paste from sticking, and dredging board slightly with flour when necessary. Fold from ends towards centre, making three layers. Cover, and let stand five minutes. Repeat 462twice, turning paste half-way round each time before rolling. After fourth rolling, fold from ends to centre, and double, making four layers. Put in cold place to chill; if outside temperature is not sufficiently cold, fold paste in a towel, put in a dripping-pan, and place between dripping pans of crushed ice. If paste is to be kept for several days, wrap in a napkin, put in tin pail and cover tightly, then put in cold place; if in ice box, do not allow pail to come in direct contact with ice.

### To Bake Puff Paste

Baking of puff paste requires as much care and judgment as making. After shaping, chill thoroughly before baking. Puff paste requires hot oven, greatest heat coming from the bottom, that the paste may properly rise. While rising it is often necessary to decrease the heat by lifting covers or opening the check to stove. Turn frequently, that it may rise evenly. When it has risen its full height, slip a pan under the sheet on which paste is baking to prevent burning on the bottom. Puff paste should be baked on a tin sheet covered with a double thickness of brown paper, or dripping-pan may be used, lined with brown paper. The temperature for baking of patties should be about the same as for raised biscuit; vol-au-vents require less heat, and are covered for first half-hour to prevent scorching on top.

### Patty Shells

Roll puff paste one-quarter inch thick, shape with a patty cutter, first dipped in flour; remove centres from one-half the rounds with smaller cutter. Brush over with cold water the larger pieces near the edge, and fit on rings, pressing lightly. Place in towel between pans of crushed ice, and chill until paste is stiff; if cold weather, chill out of doors. Place on iron or tin sheet covered with brown paper, and bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven. The shells should rise their full height and begin to brown in twelve to fifteen minutes; continue browning, and finish baking in twenty-five minutes. Pieces cut from centre of rings of patties may be baked and used for patty covers, or put together, rolled, and 463cut for unders. Trimmings from puff paste should be carefully laid on top of each other, patted, and rolled out.

### Vol-au-vents

Roll puff paste one-third inch thick, mark an oval on paste with cutter or mould, and cut out with sharp knife, first dipped in flour. Brush over near the edge with cold water, put on a rim three-fourths inch wide, press lightly, chill, and bake. Vol-au-vents require for baking forty-five minutes to one hour. During the first half-hour they should be covered, watched carefully, and frequently turned. The paste cut from centre of rim should be rolled one-quarter inch thick, shaped same size as before rolling, chilled, baked, and used for cover to the Vol-au-vent.

### Quick Puff Paste

1 cup bread flour
1 tablespoon lard
Cold water
⅞ cup butter

Work lard into flour, first using knife then tips of fingers. Moisten to a dough with cold water, pat, and roll out same as Puff Paste. Dot paste with small pieces of butter, using one-third the quantity. Dredge with flour, fold from ends toward centre, then double, making four layers. Pat, and roll out. Repeat until butter is used. Roll, shape, chill, and bake in a hot oven.

### Plain Paste

1½ cups flour
¼ cup lard
¼ cup butter
½ teaspoon salt.
Cold water

Wash butter, pat, and form in circular piece. Add salt to flour, and work in lard with tips of fingers or case knife. Moisten to dough with cold water; ice-water is not an essential, but is desirable in summer. Toss on board dredged sparingly with flour, pat, and roll out; fold in butter as for puff paste, pat, and roll out. Fold so as to make three layers, turn half-way round, pat, and roll out; repeat. The pastry may be used at once; if not, fold in cheese-cloth, put in covered tin, and keep in cold place, but never in direct 464contact with ice. Plain paste requires a moderate oven. This is superior paste and quickly made.

### Chopped Paste

2 cups flour
2 tablespoons lard
⅔ cup butter
½ teaspoon salt
Cold water

Wash butter. Mix salt with flour, put in chopping tray, add lard and butter, and chop until well mixed. Moisten to a dough with cold water. Toss on floured cloth (Magic Cover), pat, and roll out. Fold so as to make three layers, turn half-way round, pat, and roll out; repeat. Should the butter be too hard, it will not mix readily with the flour, in which case the result will be a tough crust. Omit lard, and use all butter, if preferred.

### Quick Paste

1½ cups flour
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ cup cottolene or cocoanut butter
Cold water

Mix salt with flour, cut in shortening with knife. Moisten to dough with cold water. Toss on floured board, pat, roll out, and roll up like a jelly roll. Use one-third cup of shortening if a richer paste is desired.

### Paste with Lard

1½ cups flour
½ teaspoon salt
⅓ cup lard
Cold water

Mix salt with flour. Reserve one and one-fourth tablespoons lard, work in remainder to flour, using tips of fingers or a case knife. Moisten to a dough with water. Toss on a floured board, pat, and roll out. Spread with one tablespoon reserved lard, dredge with flour, roll up like a jelly roll, pat, and roll out; again roll up. Cut from the end of roll a piece large enough to line a pie plate. Pat and roll out, keeping the paste as circular in form as possible. With care and experience there need be no trimmings. Worked-over pastry is never as satisfactory. The remaining one-fourth tablespoon lard is used to dot over upper crust of pie 465just before sending to oven; this gives the pie a flaky appearance. Ice-water has a similar effect. If milk is brushed over the pie it has a glazed appearance. This quantity of paste will make one pie with two crusts and a few puffs, or two pies with one crust where the rim is built up and fluted.

### Entire Wheat Paste

1 cup fine Entire Wheat Flour
½ cup pastry flour
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons lard
½ cup butter
Cold water

Make same as Plain Paste. Roll to one-fourth inch in thickness, cut in finger-shaped pieces, bake, cool, brush over with slightly beaten white one egg diluted with one teaspoon cold water, and sprinkle with chopped nut meat seasoned with salt. Return to oven to slightly brown nut meats. Serve with salad course.

466

## CHAPTER XXVIII
PIES

Paste for pies should be one-fourth inch thick and rolled a little larger than the plate to allow for shrinking. In dividing paste for pies, allow more for upper than under crusts. Always perforate upper crusts that steam may escape. Some make a design, others pierce with a large fork.

Flat rims for pies should be cut in strips three-fourths inch wide. Under crusts should be brushed with cold water before putting on rims, and rims slightly fulled, otherwise they will shrink from edge of plate. The pastry jagger, a simple device for cutting paste, makes rims with fluted edges.

Pies requiring two crusts sometimes have a rim between the crusts. This is mostly confined to mince pieces, where there is little danger of juice escaping. Sometimes a rim is placed over upper crust. Where two pieces of paste are put together, the under piece should always be brushed with cold water, the upper piece placed over, and the two pressed lightly together; otherwise they will separate during baking.

When juicy fruit is used for filling pies, some of the juices are apt to escape during baking. As a precaution, bind with a strip of cotton cloth wrung out of cold water and cut one inch wide and long enough to encircle the plate. Squash, pumpkin, and custard pies are much less care during baking when bound. Where cooked fruits are used for filling, it is desirable to bake crusts separately. This is best accomplished by covering an inverted deep pie plate with paste and baking for under crust. Prick with a fork before baking. Slip from plate, and fill. For 467upper crusts, roll a piece of paste a little larger than the pie plate, prick, and bake on a tin sheet.

For baking pies, perforated tin plates are used. They may be bought shallow or deep. By the use of such plates the under crust is well cooked. Pastry should be thoroughly baked and well browned. Pies require from thirty-five to forty-five minutes for baking. Never grease a pie plate; good pastry greases its own tin. Slip pies, when slightly cooled, to earthen plates.

### Apple Pie I

4 or 5 sour apples
⅓ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon butter
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Few gratings lemon rind

Line pie plate with paste. Pare, core, and cut the apples into eighths, put row around plate one-half inch from edge, and work towards centre until plate is covered; then pile on remainder. Mix sugar, nutmeg, salt, lemon juice, and grated rind, and sprinkle over apples. Dot over with butter. Wet edges of under crust, cover with upper crust, and press edges together.

Bake forty to forty-five minutes in moderate oven. A very good pie may be made without butter, lemon juice, and grated rind. Cinnamon may be substituted for nutmeg. Evaporated apples may be used in place of fresh fruit. If used, they should be soaked over night in cold water.

### Apple Pie II

Use same ingredients as for Apple Pie I. Place in small earthen baking-dish and add hot water to prevent apples from burning. Cover closely, and bake three hours in very slow oven, when apples will be a dark red color. Brown sugar may be used instead of white sugar, a little more being required. Cool, and bake between two crusts.

### Blackberry Pie

Pick over and wash one and one-half cups berries. Stew until soft with enough water to prevent burning. Add sugar 468to taste, and one-eighth teaspoon salt. Line plate with paste, put on a rim, fill with berries (which have been cooled); arrange six strips pastry across the top, cut same width as rim; put on an upper rim. Bake thirty minutes in moderate oven.

### Blueberry Pie

2½ cups berries
Flour
½ cup sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt

Line a deep plate with Plain Paste, fill with berries slightly dredged with flour; sprinkle with sugar and salt, cover, and bake forty-five to fifty minutes in a moderate oven. For sweetening, some prefer to use one-third molasses, the remaining two-thirds to be sugar. Six green grapes (from which seeds have been removed) cut in small pieces much improve the flavor, particularly where huckleberries are used in place of blueberries.

### Cranberry Pie

1½ cups cranberries
½ cup water
¾ cup sugar

Put ingredients in saucepan in order given, and cook ten minutes; cool, and bake in one crust, with a rim, and strips across the top.

### Currant Pie

1 cup currants
1 cup sugar
¼ cup flour
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons water

Mix flour and sugar, add yolks of eggs slightly beaten and diluted with water. Wash currants, drain, remove stems, then measure; add to first mixture and bake in one crust; cool, and cover with Meringue I. Cook in slow oven until delicately browned.

### Cream Pie

Bake three crusts on separate pie plates. Put together with Cream Filling and dust over with powdered sugar. If 469allowed to stand after filling for any length of time, the pastry will soften.

### Custard Pie

2 eggs
3 tablespoons sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
1½ cups milk
Few gratings nutmeg

Beat eggs slightly, add sugar, salt, and milk. Line plate with paste, and build up a fluted rim. Strain in the mixture and sprinkle with few gratings nutmeg. Bake in quick oven at first to set rim, decrease the heat afterwards, as egg and milk in combination need to be cooked at low temperature.

### Date Pie

2 cups milk
⅓ pound sugar dates
2 eggs
¼ teaspoon salt
Few gratings nutmeg

Cook dates with milk twenty minutes in top of double boiler. Strain, and rub through sieve, then add eggs and salt. Bake same as Custard Pie.

### Lemon Pie I

½ cup chopped apple
1 cup sugar
1 beaten egg
¼ cup rolled common crackers
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Grated rind 1 lemon
1 teaspoon melted butter

Mix ingredients in order given and bake with two crusts.

### Lemon Pie II

¾ cup sugar
¾ cup boiling water
2 tablespoons corn-starch
2 tablespoons flour
2 egg yolks
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Grated rind 1 lemon
1 teaspoon butter

Mix corn-starch, flour, and sugar, add boiling water, stirring constantly. Cook two minutes, add butter, egg yolks, and rind and juice of lemon. Line plate with paste same as for Custard Pie. Turn in mixture which has been cooled, and bake until pastry is well browned. Cool slightly, and cover with Meringue I; then return to oven and bake meringue.

470

### Lemon Pie III

Yolks 4 eggs
6 tablespoons sugar
Few grains salt
1¼ cups milk
Whites 4 eggs
⅞ cup powdered sugar
1 lemon

Beat yolks of eggs slightly, add sugar, salt, grated rind of lemon, and milk. Line plate with paste as for Custard Pie. Pour in mixture. Bake in moderate oven until set. Remove from oven, cool slightly, and cover with Meringue III (see p. 480) made of whites of eggs, powdered sugar, and lemon juice.

### Lemon Pie IV

3 eggs
⅔ cup sugar
¼ cup lemon juice
Grated rind ½ lemon
2 tablespoons water

Beat eggs slightly, add sugar, lemon juice, grated rind, and water. Bake in one crust in a moderate oven. Cool slightly, cover with Meringue II, then return to oven and bake meringue.

### Lemon Pie V

1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Yolks 2 eggs
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon melted butter
Whites 2 eggs
Few grains salt

Mix sugar and flour, add lemon juice, egg yolks slightly beaten, milk, butter, whites of eggs beaten stiff, and salt. Bake in one crust, and cover with meringue or not, as desired.

### Mince Pies

Mince pies should be always baked with two crusts. For Thanksgiving and Christmas pies, Puff Paste is often used for rims and upper crusts, but is never satisfactory when used for under crusts.

471

### Mince Pie Meat I

4 lbs. lean beef
2 lbs. beef suet
Baldwin apples
3 quinces
3 lbs. sugar
2 cups molasses
2 quarts cider
4 lbs. raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
3 lbs. currants
½ lb. finely cut citron
1 quart cooking brandy
1 tablespoon cinnamon and mace
1 tablespoon powdered clove
2 grated nutmegs
1 teaspoon pepper
Salt to taste

Cover meat and suet with boiling water and cook until tender, cool in water in which they are cooked; the suet will rise to top, forming a cake of fat, which may be easily removed. Finely chop meat, and add it to twice the amount of finely chopped apples. The apples should be quartered, cored, and pared, previous to chopping, or skins may be left on, which is not an objection if apples are finely chopped. Add quinces finely chopped, sugar, molasses, cider, raisins, currants, and citron; also suet, and stock in which meat and suet were cooked, reduced to one and one-half cups. Heat gradually, stir occasionally, and cook slowly two hours; then add brandy and spices.

### Mince Pie Meat II

5 cups chopped cooked beef
2½ cups chopped suet
7½ cups chopped apples
3 cups cider
½ cup vinegar
1 cup molasses
5 cups sugar
¾ lb. citron, finely chopped
2½ cups whole raisins
1½ cups raisins, finely chopped
Salt
Juice 2 lemons
Juice 2 oranges
1 tablespoon mace
Cinnamon | 2 tablespoons each
Clove
Allspice
2 nutmegs grated
2 tablespoons lemon extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
1½ cups brandy
3 cups liquor in which beef was cooked

Mix ingredients in the order given, except brandy, and let simmer one and one-half hours; then add brandy and shavings from the rind of the lemons and oranges.

472

### English Mince Meat

5 lbs. raisins, seeded
5 lbs. suet | finely chopped
5 lbs. apples
4 lbs. citron
1½ lbs. blanched almonds
5 lbs. currants
5 lbs. light brown sugar
½ teaspoon mace
½ teaspoon cinnamon
2½ cups brandy

Cook raisins, suet, apples, citron, currants, and sugar slowly for one and one-half hours; then add almonds, spices, and brandy.

### Mince Meat (without Alcoholic Liquor)

Mix together one cup chopped apple, one-half cup raisins seeded and chopped, one-half cup currants, one-fourth cup butter, one tablespoon molasses, one tablespoon boiled cider, one cup sugar, one teaspoon cinnamon, one-half teaspoon cloves, one-half nutmeg grated, one salt-spoon of mace, and one teaspoon salt. Add enough stock in which meat was cooked to moisten; heat gradually to boiling-point, and simmer one hour; then add one cup chopped meat and two tablespoons Barberry Jelly. Cook fifteen minutes.

### Mock Mince Pie

4 common crackers, rolled
1½ cups sugar
1 cup molasses
⅓ cup lemon juice or vinegar
1 cup raisins, seeded and chopped
½ cup butter
2 eggs well beaten
Spices

Mix ingredients in order given, adding spices to taste. Bake between crusts. This quantity will make two pies.

### Mock Cherry Pie

Mix one cup cranberries cut in halves, one-half cup raisins seeded and cut in pieces, three-fourths cup sugar, and one tablespoon flour. Dot over with one teaspoon butter. Bake between crusts.

### Peach Pie

Remove skins from peaches. This may be done easily after allowing peaches to stand in boiling water one minute. 473Cut in eighths, cook until soft with enough water to prevent burning; sweeten to taste. Cool, and fill crust previously baked. Cover with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored. Fresh strawberries, cut in halves, slightly mashed and sweetened, are attractively served in a pastry case.

### Prune Pie

½ lb. prunes
½ cup sugar (scant)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1½ teaspoons butter
1 tablespoon flour

Wash prunes and soak in enough cold water to cover. Cook in same water until soft. Remove stones, cut prunes in quarters, and mix with sugar and lemon juice. Reduce liquor to one and one-half tablespoons. Line plate with paste, cover with prunes, pour over liquor, dot over with butter, and dredge with flour. Put on an upper crust and bake in a moderate oven.

### Rhubarb Pie

1½ cups rhubarb
⅞ cup sugar
1 egg
2 tablespoons flour

Skin and cut stalks of rhubarb in half-inch pieces before measuring. Mix sugar, flour, and egg; add to rhubarb and bake between crusts. Many prefer to scald rhubarb before using; if so prepared, losing some of its acidity, less sugar is required.

### Squash Pie I

1¼ cups steamed and strained squash
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, or
½ teaspoon lemon extract
1 egg
⅞ cup milk

Mix sugar, salt, and spice or extract, add squash, egg slightly beaten, and milk gradually. Bake in one crust, following directions for Custard Pie. If a richer pie is desired, use one cup squash, one-half cup each of milk and cream, and an additional egg yolk.

474

### Squash Pie II

1 cup squash, steamed and strained
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup sugar
3 eggs, slightly beaten
4 tablespoons brandy
Cinnamon | 1 teaspoon each
Nutmeg
Ginger | ¾ teaspoon each
Salt
¼ teaspoon mace

Line a deep pie plate with puff paste. Brush over paste with white of egg slightly beaten, and sprinkle with stale bread crumbs; fill, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve warm.

### Pumpkin Pie

1½ cups steamed and strained pumpkin
⅔ cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon ginger
½ teaspoon salt
2 eggs
1½ cups milk
½ cup cream

Mix ingredients in order given and bake in one crust.

Cheese Straws.—Page 475.

Cocoanut Tea Cakes.—Page 477.

Fruit Baskets.—Page 479.

Lemon Tartlets.—Page 479.

475

## CHAPTER XXIX
PASTRY DESSERTS

### Banbury Tarts

1 cup raisins
1 cup sugar
1 egg
1 cracker
Juice and grated rind 1 lemon

Stone and chop raisins, add sugar, egg slightly beaten, cracker finely rolled, and lemon juice and rind. Roll pastry one-eighth inch thick, and cut pieces three and one-half inches long by three inches wide. Put two teaspoons of mixture on each piece. Moisten edge with cold water half-way round, fold over, press edges together with three-tined fork, first dipped in flour. Bake twenty minutes in slow oven.

### Cheese Cakes

1 cup sweet milk
1 cup sour milk
1 cup sugar
Yolks 4 eggs
Juice and grated rind one lemon
¼ cup almonds, blanched and chopped
¼ teaspoon salt

Scald sweet and sour milk, strain through cheese-cloth. To curd add sugar, yolks of eggs slightly beaten, lemon, and salt. Line patty pans with paste, fill with mixture, and sprinkle with chopped almonds. Bake until mixture is firm to the touch.

### Cheese Straws

Roll puff or plain paste one-fourth inch thick, sprinkle one-half with grated cheese to which has been added few grains of salt and cayenne. Fold, press edges firmly together, fold again, pat, and roll out one-fourth inch thick. Sprinkle with cheese and proceed as before; repeat twice. Cut in strips five 476inches long and one-fourth inch wide. Bake eight minutes in hot oven. Parmesan cheese, or equal parts of Parmesan and Edam cheese, may be used. Cheese straws are piled log cabin fashion and served with cheese or salad course.

### Condés

Whites 2 eggs
¾ cup powdered sugar
2 oz. almonds, blanched and finely chopped

Beat whites of eggs until stiff, add sugar gradually, then almonds. Roll paste, and cut in strips three and one-half inches long by one and one-half inches wide. Spread with mixture; avoid having it come close to edge. Dust with powdered sugar and bake fifteen minutes in moderate oven.

### Galattes

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick. Shape with an oblong cutter three and one-half inches long by one and three-fourths inches wide. Brush over with white of egg and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar. Bake in a hot oven. A lady-finger cutter may be used with satisfaction, but is more difficult to procure.

### Cream Horns

Roll puff paste in a long rectangular piece, one-eighth inch thick. Cut in strips three-fourths inch wide. Roll paste over wooden forms bought for the purpose, having edges overlap. Bake in hot oven until well puffed and slightly browned. Brush over with white of egg slightly beaten, diluted with one teaspoon water, then sprinkle with sugar. Return to oven and finish cooking, and remove from forms. When cold, fill with Cream Filling or whipped cream sweetened and flavored.

### Florentine Meringue

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick; cut a piece ten inches long by seven inches wide; place on a sheet, wet edges, and put on a half-inch rim. Prick with fork six times, and bake in hot oven. Cool, and spread with jam, cover with Meringue II, and almonds blanched and shredded; sprinkle with powdered sugar and bake.

477

### Cocoanut Tea Cakes

Roll puff or plain paste to one-fourth inch in thickness. Shape with a lady-finger cutter and bake on a tin sheet in a hot oven. When nearly done remove from oven, cool slightly, brush over with beaten white of egg, sprinkle with shredded cocoanut, and return to oven to finish the cooking.

### Napoleons

Bake three sheets of pastry, pricking before baking. Put between the sheets Cream Filling; spread top with Confectioner’s Frosting, sprinkle with pistachio nuts blanched and chopped, crease in pieces about two and one-half by four inches, and cut with sharp knife.

### Orange Sticks

Cut puff or plain paste rolled one-eighth inch thick in strips five inches long by one inch wide, and bake in hot oven. Put together in pairs, with Orange Filling between.

### Lemon Sticks

Lemon Sticks may be made in same manner as Orange Sticks, using Lemon Filling.

### Palm Leaves

Roll remnants of puff paste one-eighth inch thick; sprinkle one-half surface with powdered sugar, fold, press edges together, pat and roll out, using sugar for dredging board; repeat three times. After the last rolling fold four times. The pastry should be in long strip one and one-half inches wide. From the end, cut pieces one inch wide; place on baking-sheet, broad side down, one inch apart, and separate layers of pastry at one end to suggest a leaf. Bake eight minutes in hot oven; these will spread while baking.

### Raspberry Puffs

Roll plain paste one-eighth inch thick, and cut in pieces four by three and one-half inches. Put one-half tablespoon raspberry jam on centre of lower half of each piece, wet 478edges half-way around, fold, press edges firmly together, prick tops, place on sheet, and bake twenty minutes in hot oven.

### Tarts

Roll puff paste one-eighth inch thick. Shape with a fluted round cutter, first dipped in flour; with a smaller cutter remove centres from half the pieces, leaving rings one-half inch wide. Brush with cold water the larger pieces near the edge; fit on rings, pressing lightly. Chill thoroughly, and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven. By brushing tops of rings with beaten yolk of egg diluted with one teaspoonful water, they will have a glazed appearance. Cool, and fill with jam or jelly.

### Polish Tartlets

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick, and cut in two and one-half inch squares; wet the corners, fold toward the centre, and press lightly; bake on a sheet; when cool, press down the centres and fill, using two-thirds quince marmalade and one-third currant jelly.

### Almond Tartlets

Line patty pans with puff or plain paste, fill with the following mixture, and bake in a moderate oven until firm.

Blanch and finely chop one-third pound Jordan almonds. Add two tablespoons cracker rolled and sifted, three eggs slightly beaten, one-third cup sugar, one-third teaspoon salt, two cups milk, and one-half teaspoon vanilla.

### Peach Crusts

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick, cut in two and one-half inch squares, and bake in hot oven. Cool, press down the centres, and arrange on each one-half a canned peach drained from syrup and heated in oven. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and put brandy in each cavity. Light just before sending to table.

### Malaga Boats

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick, line individual boat-shaped tins, prick, and half fill with rice or barley 479to keep pastry in desired shape. Bake in a hot oven. Remove from tins and cover bottom of boats with marmalade, and on marmalade arrange three or four malaga grapes cooked in syrup five minutes.

### Calvé Tarts

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick, and cut in rounds of correct size to cover inverted circular tins. Cover tins with paste, prick several times, and bake until delicately browned. Place one-half a canned peach in each case and fill each cavity with one-half a blanched Jordan almond.

### Fruit Baskets

Bake plain paste over inverted patty pans. Roll paste one-eighth inch thick, and cut in strips one-fourth inch wide. Twist strips in pairs and bake over a one-fourth pound baking-powder box, thus making handles. Fill cases with sliced peaches sprinkled generously with sugar, insert handles, garnish with whipped cream and peach leaves. Strawberries, raspberries, or other fruit may be used in place of peaches.

### Lemon Tartlets

Bake paste as for Fruit Baskets without handles. Fill with Lemon Pie II mixture, cover with Meringue II, and bake until meringue is delicately browned.

### MERINGUES

#### For Pies, Puddings, and Desserts

Eggs for meringues should be thoroughly chilled, and beaten with silver fork, wire spoon, or whisk. Where several eggs are needed, much time is saved by using a whisk. Meringues on pies, puddings, or desserts may be spread evenly, spread and piled in the centre, put on lightly by spoonfuls, or spread evenly with part of the mixture, the remainder being forced through a pastry bag and tube.

Meringues I and III should be baked fifteen minutes in slow oven. Meringue II should be cooked eight minutes 480in moderate oven; if removed from oven before cooked, the eggs will liquefy and meringue settle; if cooked too long, meringue is tough.

#### Meringue I

Whites 2 eggs
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
½ tablespoon lemon juice or
¼ teaspoon vanilla

Beat whites until stiff, add sugar gradually and continue beating, then add flavoring.

#### Meringue II

Whites 3 eggs
7½ tablespoons powdered sugar
½ teaspoon lemon extract or
⅓ teaspoon vanilla

Beat whites until stiff, add four tablespoons sugar gradually, and beat vigorously; fold in remaining sugar, and add flavoring.

#### Meringue III

Whites 4 eggs
⅞ cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Put whites of eggs and sugar in bowl, beat mixture until stiff enough to hold its shape, add lemon juice drop by drop, continuing the beating. It will take thirty minutes to beat mixture sufficiently stiff to hold its shape, but when baked it makes a most delicious meringue.

#### Meringues Glacées, or Kisses

Whites 4 eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla
1¼ cups powdered sugar or
1 cup fine granulated

Beat whites until stiff, add gradually two-thirds of sugar, and continue beating until mixture will hold its shape; fold in remaining sugar, and add flavoring. Shape with a spoon or pastry bag and tube on wet board covered with letter paper. Bake thirty minutes in very slow oven, remove from paper, and put together in pairs, or if intending to fill with whipped cream or ice cream remove soft part with spoon and place meringues in oven to dry.

#### Nut Meringues

To Meringue Glacée mixture add chopped nut meat; almonds, English walnuts, or hickory nuts are preferred. 481Shape by dropping mixture from tip of spoon in small piles one-half inch apart, or by using pastry bag and tube. Sprinkle with nut meat, and bake.

#### Meringues (Mushrooms)

Shape Meringue Glacée mixture in rounds the size of mushroom caps, using pastry bag and tube; sprinkle with grated chocolate. Shape stems like mushroom stems. Bake, remove from paper, and place caps on stems.

#### Meringues Panachées

Fill Meringues Glacées with ice cream, or ice cream and water ice. Garnish with whipped cream forced through pastry bag and tube, and candied cherries.

#### Creole Kisses

½ lb. Jordan almonds
¼ cup boiling water
½ cup sugar
Whites 4 eggs
1¼ cups powdered sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla
¼ teaspoon salt

Blanch almonds, finely shred one-half of them, and dry slowly in oven. Put water and sugar in a saucepan, and as soon as boiling-point is reached, add remaining almonds, and cook until the syrup is of a golden brown color. Turn into a pan, cool, and finely pound in mortar. Beat whites of eggs until stiff, add gradually sugar, then vanilla, almonds, and salt. Shape, sprinkle with shredded almonds, sift sugar over them, and bake in a slow oven twenty-five minutes.

482

## CHAPTER XXX
GINGERBREADS, COOKIES, AND WAFERS

### Hot Water Gingerbread

1 cup molasses
½ cup boiling water
2¼ cups flour
1 teaspoon soda
1½ teaspoons ginger
½ teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons melted butter

Add water to molasses. Mix and sift dry ingredients, combine mixtures, add butter, and beat vigorously. Pour into a buttered shallow pan, and bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Chicken fat dried out and clarified furnishes an excellent shortening, and may be used in place of butter.

### Sour Milk Gingerbread

1 cup molasses
1 cup sour milk
2⅓ cups flour
1¾ teaspoons soda
2 teaspoons ginger
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup melted butter

Mix soda with sour milk and add to molasses. Sift together remaining dry ingredients, combine mixtures, add butter, and beat vigorously. Pour into a buttered shallow pan, and bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven.

### Soft Molasses Gingerbread

1 cup molasses
⅓ cup butter
1¾ teaspoons soda
½ cup sour milk
1 egg
2 cups flour
2 teaspoons ginger
½ teaspoon salt

Put butter and molasses in saucepan and cook until boiling-point is reached. Remove from fire, add soda, and beat vigorously. Then add milk, egg well beaten, and remaining ingredients mixed and sifted. Bake fifteen minutes in 483buttered small tin pans, having pans two-thirds filled with mixture.

### Cambridge Gingerbread

⅓ cup butter
⅔ cup boiling water
1 cup molasses
1 egg
2¾ cups flour
1½ teaspoons soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ginger
¼ teaspoon clove

Melt butter in water, add molasses, egg well beaten, and dry ingredients mixed and sifted. Bake in a buttered shallow pan.

### Soft Sugar Gingerbread

2 eggs
1 cup sugar
1¾ cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons ginger
⅔ cup thin cream

Beat eggs until light, and add sugar gradually. Mix and sift dry ingredients, and add alternately with cream to first mixture. Turn into a buttered cake pan, and bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven.

### Gossamer Gingerbread

⅓ cup butter
1 cup sugar
1 egg
½ cup milk
1⅞ cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon yellow ginger

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, then egg well beaten. Add milk, and dry ingredients mixed and sifted. Spread in a buttered dripping-pan as thinly as possible, using the back of mixing-spoon. Bake fifteen minutes. Sprinkle with sugar, and cut in small squares or diamonds before removing from pan.

### Fairy Gingerbread

½ cup butter
1 cup light brown sugar
½ cup milk
1⅞ cups bread flour
2 teaspoons ginger

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and milk very slowly. Mix and sift flour and ginger, and combine mixtures. 484Spread very thinly with a broad, long-bladed knife on a buttered, inverted dripping-pan. Bake in a moderate oven. Cut in squares before removing from pan. Watch carefully and turn pan frequently during baking, that all may be evenly cooked. If mixture around edge of pan is cooked before that in the centre, pan should be removed from oven, cooked part cut off, and remainder returned to oven to finish cooking.

### Hard Sugar Gingerbread

¾ cup butter
1½ cups sugar
¾ cup milk
5 cups flour
¾ tablespoon baking powder
1½ teaspoons salt
¾ tablespoon ginger

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, milk, and dry ingredients mixed and sifted. Put some of mixture on an inverted dripping-pan and roll as thinly as possible to cover pan. Mark dough with a coarse grater. Sprinkle with sugar and bake in a moderate oven. Before removing from pan, cut in strips four and one-half inches long by one and one-half inches wide.

### Christmas English Gingerbread

1 lb. flour
½ lb. butter
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon ginger
1 teaspoon salt
Molasses

Mix flour, sugar, ginger, and salt. Work in butter, using tips of fingers, and add just enough molasses to hold ingredients together. Let stand over night to get thoroughly chilled. Roll very thin, shape, and bake in a moderate oven.

### Card Gingerbread

⅓ cup butter
⅓ cup brown sugar
1 egg
½ cup molasses
1¾ cups flour
½ tablespoon ginger
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon soda
¼ teaspoon cinnamon

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg well beaten, molasses, and flour mixed and sifted with ginger, salt, soda, 485and cinnamon. Chill, roll in sheets to one-fourth inch in thickness, bake on a buttered sheet, and cut in squares.

### Walnut Molasses Bars

¼ cup butter
¼ cup lard
¼ cup boiling water
½ cup brown sugar
½ cup molasses
1 teaspoon soda
3 cups flour
½ tablespoon ginger
⅓ teaspoon grated nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon clove
1 teaspoon salt
Chopped walnut meat

Pour water over butter and lard, then add sugar, molasses mixed with soda, flour, salt, and spices. Chill thoroughly, roll one-fourth inch thick, cut in strips three and one-half inches long by one and one-half inches wide. Sprinkle with nut meat and bake ten minutes.

### Ginger Snaps

1 cup molasses
½ cup shortening
3¼ cups flour
½ teaspoon soda
1 tablespoon ginger
1½ teaspoons salt

Heat molasses to boiling-point and pour over shortening. Add dry ingredients mixed and sifted. Chill thoroughly. Toss one-fourth of mixture on a floured board and roll as thinly as possible; shape with a small round cutter, first dipped in flour. Place near together on a buttered sheet and bake in a moderate oven. Gather up the trimmings and roll with another portion of dough. During rolling, the bowl containing mixture should be kept in a cool place, or it will be necessary to add more flour to dough, which makes cookies hard rather than crisp and short.

### Molasses Cookies

1 cup molasses
½ cup shortening, butter and lard mixed
2½ cups bread flour
1 tablespoon ginger
1 tablespoon soda
2 tablespoons warm milk
1 teaspoon salt

Heat molasses to boiling-point, add shortening, ginger, soda dissolved in warm milk, salt, and flour. Proceed as for Ginger Snaps.

486

### Soft Molasses Cookies

1 cup molasses
1¾ teaspoons soda
1 cup sour milk
½ cup shortening, melted
2 teaspoons ginger
1 teaspoon salt
Flour

Add soda to molasses and beat thoroughly; add milk, shortening, ginger, salt, and flour. Enough flour must be used to make mixture of right consistency to drop easily from spoon. Let stand several hours in a cold place to thoroughly chill. Toss one-half mixture at a time on slightly floured board and roll lightly to one-fourth inch thickness. Shape with a round cutter, first dipped in flour. Bake on a buttered sheet.

### Spice Cookies

½ cup molasses
¼ cup sugar
1½ tablespoons butter
1½ tablespoons lard
1 tablespoon milk
2 cups flour
½ teaspoon soda
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon clove
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg

Heat molasses to boiling-point. Add sugar, shortening, and milk. Mix and sift dry ingredients, and add to first mixture. Chill thoroughly, and proceed as with Ginger Snaps.

### Scotch Wafers

1 cup fine oatmeal
1 cup Rolled Oats
2 cups flour
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon soda
¼ cup butter or lard
½ cup hot water

Mix first six ingredients. Melt shortening in water and add to first mixture. Toss on a floured board, pat, and roll as thinly as possible. Shape with a cutter, or with a sharp knife cut in strips. Bake on a buttered sheet in a slow oven. These are well adapted for children’s luncheons, and are much enjoyed by the convalescent, taken with a glass of milk.

487

### Oatmeal Cookies

1 egg
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup thin cream
¼ cup milk
½ cup fine oatmeal
2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt

Beat egg until light, add sugar, cream, and milk; then add oatmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt, mixed and sifted. Toss on a floured board, roll, cut in shape, and bake in a moderate oven.

### Scottish Fancies

1 egg
½ cup sugar
⅔ tablespoon melted butter
1 cup rolled oats
⅓ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon vanilla

Beat egg until light, add gradually sugar, and then stir in remaining ingredients. Drop mixture by teaspoonfuls on a thoroughly greased inverted dripping-pan one inch apart. Spread into circular shape with a case knife first dipped in cold water. Bake in a moderate oven until delicately browned. To give variety use two-thirds cup rolled oats and fill cup with shredded cocoanut.

### Vanilla Wafers

⅓ cup butter and lard in equal proportions
1 cup sugar
1 egg
¼ cup milk
2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons vanilla

Cream the butter, add sugar, egg well beaten, milk, and vanilla. Mix and sift dry ingredients and add to first mixture. Proceed as with Ginger Snaps.

### Cream Cookies

⅓ cup butter
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup thin cream
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons yellow ginger
Flour to roll

Mix and bake same as Vanilla Wafers.

488

### Imperial Cookies

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
1 tablespoon milk
2½ cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon lemon extract
½ teaspoon grated nutmeg

Mix and bake same as Vanilla Wafers.

### Hermits

⅓ cup butter
⅔ cup sugar
1 egg
2 tablespoons milk
1¾ cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
⅓ cup raisins, stoned and cut in small pieces
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon clove
¼ teaspoon mace
¼ teaspoon nutmeg

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, then raisins, egg well beaten, and milk. Mix and sift dry ingredients and add to first mixture. Roll mixture a little thicker than for Vanilla Wafers.

### Rich Cookies

½ cup butter
⅓ cup sugar
1 egg well beaten
¾ cup flour
½ teaspoon vanilla
Raisins, nuts, or citron

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg, flour, and vanilla. Drop from tip of spoon in small portions on buttered sheet two inches apart. Spread thinly with a knife first dipped in cold water. Put four Sultana raisins on each cookie, almonds blanched and cut in strips, or citron cut in small pieces.

### Jelly Jumbles

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
1 egg
½ teaspoon soda
½ cup sour milk
¼ teaspoon salt
Flour
Currant jelly

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg well beaten, soda mixed with milk, salt and flour to make a soft dough. Chill and shape, using a round cutter. On the centres of one-half the pieces put currant jelly. Make three small openings in remaining halves, using a thimble, and put pieces together. Press edges slightly, and bake in a rather hot oven, that jumbles may keep in good shape.

Rich Cookies.—Page 488.

Royal Fans.—Page 489.

Chocolate Cakes (Page 491) and Crescents (Page 534).

Meringues.—Page 480.

489

### Royal Fans

Mix and sift two cups flour and one-half cup brown sugar. Wash three-fourths cup butter and work into first mixture, using tips of fingers. Roll to one-third inch in thickness, shape with a fluted round cutter five inches in diameter. Cut each piece in quarters and crease with the dull edge of a case knife to represent folds of a fan. Brush over with yolk of egg diluted with three-fourths teaspoon water. Bake in a slow oven.

### Boston Cookies

1 cup butter
1½ cups sugar
3 eggs
1 teaspoon soda
1½ tablespoons hot water
3¼ cups flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup chopped nut meat, hickory or English walnut
½ cup currants
½ cup raisins, seeded and chopped

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and eggs well beaten. Add soda dissolved in hot water, and one-half the flour mixed and sifted with salt and cinnamon; then add nut meat, fruit, and remaining flour. Drop by spoonfuls one inch apart on a buttered sheet, and bake in a moderate oven.

### Cocoanut Cream Cookies

2 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup thick cream
½ cup shredded cocoanut
3 cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt

Beat eggs until light, add sugar gradually, cocoanut, cream, and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder and salt. Chill thoroughly, toss on a floured board, pat, and roll one-half inch thick. Sprinkle with cocoanut, roll one-fourth inch thick, and shape with a small round cutter, first dipped in flour. Bake on a buttered sheet in a moderate oven.

490

### Peanut Cookies

2 tablespoons butter
¼ cup sugar
1 egg
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup flour
2 tablespoons milk
½ cup finely chopped peanuts
½ teaspoon lemon juice

Cream the butter, add sugar, and egg well beaten. Mix and sift baking powder, salt, and flour; add to first mixture; then add milk, peanuts, and lemon juice. Drop from a teaspoon on an unbuttered sheet one inch apart, and place one-half peanut on top of each. Bake twelve to fifteen minutes in a slow oven. This recipe will make twenty-four cookies. One pint peanuts when shelled should yield one-half cup.

### Almond Cookies

½ cup butter
1 egg
⅓ cup almonds, blanched and finely chopped
½ cup sugar
½ tablespoon cinnamon
Clove | ½ tablespoon each
Nutmeg
Grated rind ½ lemon
2 tablespoons brandy
2 cups flour

Cream the butter, add egg well beaten, almonds, sugar, brandy, and spices mixed and sifted with flour. Roll mixture to one-fourth inch in thickness, shape with a round cutter first dipped in flour, and bake in a slow oven.

### Nut Cookies

Yolks 2 eggs
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup chopped nut meats
Whites 2 eggs
6 tablespoons flour
Few grains salt

Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar gradually, nut meats, whites of egg beaten until stiff, and flour mixed with salt. Drop from tip of spoon on buttered sheet, spread, and bake in a moderate oven.

### Seed Cakes

Follow recipe for Cocoanut Cream Cookies (see p. 489), using one and one-half tablespoons caraway seeds in place of cocoanut.

491

### Chocolate Cookies

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
1 egg
¼ teaspoon salt
2 ozs. Baker’s chocolate
2½ cups flour (scant)
2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ cup milk

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg well beaten, salt, and chocolate melted. Beat well, and add flour mixed and sifted with baking powder alternately with milk. Chill, roll very thin, then shape with a small cutter, first dipped in flour, and bake in a moderate oven.

### German Chocolate Cookies

2 eggs
1 cup brown sugar
2 bars German chocolate
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
Grated rind ½ lemon
1⅓ cups almonds, blanched and chopped
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder

Beat eggs until light, add sugar, gradually, and continue the beating; then add chocolate, grated, and remaining ingredients. Drop from tip of spoon on a buttered sheet, and bake in a moderate oven.

### Chocolate Fruit Cookies

¼ cup butter
½ cup sugar
2 tablespoons grated chocolate
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon boiling water
1 egg
½ cup nut meats, finely chopped
½ cup seeded raisins, finely chopped
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder

Cream the butter, and add sugar, gradually. Melt chocolate, add remaining sugar and water, and cook one minute. Combine mixtures, and add remaining ingredients. Chill, shape, and bake same as Chocolate Cookies.

### Chocolate Cakes

3 eggs
¼ cup butter
½ cup sugar
3 squares Baker’s chocolate
1 cup stale bread crumbs
3 tablespoons flour

Beat eggs until light. Cream the butter, add sugar, combine mixtures, then add chocolate melted, bread crumbs, 492and flour. Spread mixture in a shallow buttered pan and bake in a slow oven. Shape with a tiny biscuit-cutter and put together in pairs with White Mountain Cream (see p. 528) between and on top.

### Neuremburghs

2 eggs
½ cup powdered sugar
¾ cup flour
⅓ teaspoon salt
⅓ teaspoon cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon clove
1 tablespoon orange peel, finely cut
Grated rind ½ lemon
¾ cup Jordan almonds

Beat the whites of the eggs until stiff, and add sugar gradually, continuing the beating. Then add yolks of eggs well beaten, flour mixed and sifted with salt and spices, orange peel, and lemon rind. Blanch almonds, cut in small pieces crosswise, and bake in a slow oven until well browned. Fold into the mixture, and drop by spoonfuls on a sheet dredged with corn-starch and powdered sugar in equal proportions. Bake in a moderate oven.

### Sand Tarts

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
1 egg
1¾ cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
White 1 egg
Blanched almonds
1 tablespoon sugar
¼ teaspoon cinnamon

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten; then add flour mixed and sifted with baking powder. Chill, toss one-half mixture on a floured board, and roll one-eighth inch thick. Shape with a doughnut cutter. Brush over with white of egg, and sprinkle with sugar mixed with cinnamon. Split almonds, and arrange three halves on each at equal distances. Place on a buttered sheet, and bake eight minutes in a slow oven.

### Swedish Wafers

½ cup butter
½ cup sugar
2 eggs
5 ozs. flour
¼ teaspoon vanilla
Shredded almonds

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, eggs slightly beaten, flour, and flavoring. Drop by spoonfuls on an 493inverted buttered dripping-pan. Spread very thinly, using a knife, in circular shapes about three inches in diameter. Sprinkle with almonds, and bake in a slow oven. Remove from pan, and shape at once over the handle of a wooden spoon.

### Marguerites I

2 eggs
1 cup brown sugar
½ cup flour
¼ teaspoon baking powder
⅓ teaspoon salt
1 cup pecan nut meats, cut in small pieces

Beat eggs slightly, and add remaining ingredients in the order given. Fill small buttered tins two-thirds full of mixture, and place pecan nut meat on each. Bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes.

### Marguerites II

1 cup sugar
½ cup water
5 marshmallows
Whites 2 eggs
2 tablespoons shredded cocoanut
¼ teaspoon vanilla
1 cup English walnut meats
Saltines

Boil sugar and water until syrup will thread. Remove to back of range and add marshmallows cut in pieces. Pour onto the whites of eggs beaten until stiff; then add cocoanut, vanilla, and nut meats. Spread saltines with mixture and bake until delicately browned.

### Kornettes

¾ cup finely chopped popped corn
¾ tablespoon soft butter
White 1 egg
⅓ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon vanilla
Blanched and chopped almonds
Candied cherries

Add butter to corn. Beat egg white until stiff, and add sugar gradually, continuing the beating. Combine mixtures; then add salt and vanilla. Drop mixture from tip of spoon on a well buttered sheet, one inch apart. Shape in circular form with case knife first dipped in cold water. Sprinkle with almonds and place a piece of candied cherry on the centre of each. Bake in a slow oven until delicately browned.

494

### Rolled Wafers

¼ cup butter
½ cup powdered sugar
¼ cup milk
⅞ cup bread flour
½ teaspoon vanilla

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and milk drop by drop; then add flour and flavoring. Spread very thinly with a broad, long-bladed knife on a buttered inverted dripping-pan. Crease in three-inch squares, and bake in a slow oven until delicately browned. Place pan on back of range, cut squares apart with a sharp knife, and roll while warm in tubular or cornucopia shape. If squares become too brittle to roll, place in oven to soften. If rolled tubular shape, tie in bunches with narrow ribbon. These are very attractive, and may be served with sherbet, ice cream, or chocolate. If rolled cornucopia shape, they may be filled with whipped cream just before sending to table. Colored wafers may be made from this mixture by adding leaf green or fruit red. If colored green, flavor with one-fourth teaspoon almond and three-fourths teaspoon vanilla. If colored pink, flavor with rose. Colored wafers must be baked in a very slow oven and turned frequently, otherwise they will not be of the uniform color that is desired.

### Almond Wafers

Before baking Rolled Wafers, sprinkle with almonds blanched and chopped. Other nut meats or shredded cocoanut may be used in place of almonds.

### English Rolled Wafers I

½ cup molasses
½ cup butter
1 cup flour (scant)
⅔ cup sugar
1 tablespoon ginger

Heat molasses to boiling-point, add butter, then slowly, stirring constantly, flour mixed and sifted with ginger and sugar. Drop small portions from tip of spoon on a buttered inverted dripping-pan two inches apart. Bake in a slow oven, cool slightly, remove from pan, and roll over handle of wooden spoon.

English Rolled Wafers I-II.—Page 494.

Marguerites I.—Page 493.

Mocha Cakes.—Page 518.

Small Éclairs.—Page 519.

Ice Cream Cake (Page 517) with Nut Caramel Frosting.—Page 530.

495

### English Rolled Wafers II

To English Rolled Wafers I, add one and one-half cups rolled oats.

### Nut Bars

2 tablespoons brown sugar
¼ cup butter
¼ cup boiling water
½ cup brown sugar
½ cup flour
⅛ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons English walnut meat, finely chopped
Halves of walnuts or almonds

Caramelize two tablespoons sugar, add butter and water, and boil two minutes. Remove from fire, add remaining sugar, flour mixed with salt, and walnut meat. Spread as Rolled Wafers, crease in two-inch squares, and decorate with nut meats. Bake in a slow oven, and remove from pan at once.

### Nut Macaroons

White 1 egg
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup pecan nut meats
¼ teaspoon salt

Beat white of egg until light and add gradually, while beating constantly, sugar. Fold in nut meats, finely chopped and sprinkled with salt. Drop from tip of spoon, one inch apart, on an unbuttered sheet, and bake in a moderate oven until delicately browned.

### Brownies

1 cup sugar
¼ cup melted butter
1 egg, unbeaten
2 squares Baker’s chocolate, melted
¾ teaspoon vanilla
½ cup flour
½ cup walnut meats, cut in pieces

Mix ingredients in order given. Line a seven-inch square pan with paraffine paper. Spread mixture evenly in pan and bake in a slow oven. As soon as taken from oven turn from pan, remove paper, and cut cake in strips, using a sharp knife. If these directions are not followed paper will cling to cake, and it will be impossible to cut it in shapely pieces.

496

### Card Cakes

⅓ cup butter
1 cup powdered sugar
2 eggs
1 cup flour
⅓ teaspoon salt
Jordan almonds
1 tablespoon Breakfast Cocoa
2 tablespoons sugar
¼ teaspoon powdered cinnamon
¼ teaspoon vanilla
Shredded cocoanut

Cream the butter, add sugar, eggs well beaten, flour, and salt. Spread mixture on bottom of a buttered inverted dripping-pan, decorate with almonds blanched and cut in strips, and bake in slow oven. Cut in desired shape, using heart, spade, and diamond-shaped cutters before removing from pan. To give variety, divide mixture in halves. To one-half add sugar, cocoa, cinnamon, and vanilla, then spread on pan and sprinkle with shredded cocoanut.

497

## CHAPTER XXXI
CAKE

The mixing and baking of cake requires more care and judgment than any other branch of cookery; notwithstanding, it seems the one most frequently attempted by the inexperienced.

Two kinds of cake mixtures are considered:—

I. Without butter. Example: Sponge Cakes.

II. With butter. Examples: Cup and Pound Cakes.

In cake making (1) the best ingredients are essential; (2) great care must be taken in measuring and combining ingredients; (3) pans must be properly prepared; (4) oven heat must be regulated, and cake watched during baking.

Best tub butter, fine granulated sugar, fresh eggs, and pastry flour are essentials for good cake. Coarse granulated sugar, bought by so many, if used in cake making, gives a coarse texture and hard crust. Pastry flour contains more starch and less gluten than bread flour, therefore makes a lighter, more tender cake. If bread flour must be used, allow two tablespoons less for each cup than the recipe calls for. Flour differs greatly in thickening properties; for this reason it is always well when using from a new bag to try a small cake, as the amount of flour given may not make the perfect loaf. In winter, cake may be made of less flour than in summer.

Before attempting to mix cake, study How to Measure (p. 25) and How to Combine Ingredients (p. 26).

Look at the fire, and replenish by sprinkling on a small quantity of coal if there is not sufficient heat to effect the baking.

498 To Mix Sponge Cake. Separate yolks from whites of eggs. Beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored, using an egg-beater; add sugar gradually, and continue beating; then add flavoring. Beat whites until stiff and dry,—when they will fly from the beater,—and add to the first mixture. Mix and sift flour with salt, and cut and fold in at the last. If mixture is beaten after the addition of flour, much of the work already done of enclosing a large amount of air will be undone by breaking air bubbles. These rules apply to a mixture where baking powder is not employed.

To Mix Butter Cakes. An earthen bowl should always be used for mixing cake, and a wooden cake-spoon with slits lightens the labor. Measure dry ingredients, and mix and sift baking powder and spices, if used, with flour. Count out number of eggs required, breaking each separately that there may be no loss should a stale egg chance to be found in the number, separating yolks from whites if rule so specifies. Measure butter, then liquid. Having everything in readiness, the mixing may be quickly accomplished. If butter is very hard, by allowing it to stand a short time in a warm room it is measured and creamed much easier. If time cannot be allowed for this to be done, warm bowl by pouring in some hot water, letting stand one minute, then emptying and wiping dry. Avoid overheating bowl, as butter will become oily rather than creamy. Put butter in bowl, and cream by working with a wooden spoon until soft and of a creamy consistency; then add sugar gradually, and continue beating. Add yolks of eggs or whole eggs beaten until light, liquid, and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder; or liquid and flour may be added alternately. When yolks and whites of eggs are beaten separately, whites are usually added at the last, as is the case when whites of eggs alone are used. A cake can be made fine-grained only by long beating, although light and delicate with a small amount of beating. Never stir cake after the final beating, remembering that beating motion should always be the last used. Fruit, when added to cake, is usually floured to prevent its settling to the bottom. This is not necessary if it is added directly after the sugar, which is desirable in all dark 499cakes. If a light fruit cake is made, fruit added in this way discolors the loaf. Citron is first cut in thin slices, then in strips, floured, and put in between layers of cake mixtures. Raisins are seeded and cut, rather than chopped. To seed raisins, wet tips of fingers in a cup of warm water. Then break skins with fingers or cut with a vegetable knife; remove seeds, and put in cup of water. This is better than covering raisins with warm water; if this be done, water clings to fruit, and when dredged with flour a pasty mass is formed on the outside. Washed currants, put up in packages, are quite free from stems and foreign substances, and need only picking over and rolling in flour. Currants bought in bulk need thorough cleaning. First roll in flour, which helps to start dirt; wash in cold water, drain, and spread to dry; then roll again in flour before using.

To Butter and Fill Pans. Grease pans with melted fat, applying the same with a butter brush. If butter is used, put in a small saucepan and place on back of range; when melted, salt will settle to the bottom; butter is then called clarified. Just before putting in mixture, dredge pans thoroughly with flour, invert, and shake pan to remove all superfluous flour, leaving only a thin coating which adheres to butter. This gives to cake a smooth under surface, which is especially desirable if cake is to be frosted. Pans may be lined with paper. If this is done, paper should just cover bottom of pan and project over sides. Then ends of pan and paper are buttered.

In filling pans, have the mixture come well to the corners and sides of pans, leaving a slight depression in the centre, and when baked the cake will be perfectly flat on top. Cake pans should be filled nearly two-thirds full if cake is expected to rise to top of pan.

To Bake Cake. The baking of cake is more critical than the mixing. Many a well-mixed cake has been spoiled in the baking. No oven thermometer has yet proved practical, and although many teachers of cookery have given oven tests, experience alone has proved the most reliable teacher. In baking cake, divide the time required into quarters. During the first quarter the mixture should begin to rise; second 500quarter, continue rising and begin to brown; third quarter, continue browning; fourth quarter, finish baking and shrink from pan. If oven is too hot, open check and raise back covers, or leave oven door ajar. It is sometimes necessary to cover cake with brown paper; there is, however, danger of cake adhering to paper. Cake should be often looked at during baking, and providing oven door is opened and closed carefully, there is no danger of this causing cake to fall. Cake should not be moved in oven until it has risen its full height; after this it is usually desirable to move it that it may be evenly browned. Cake when done shrinks from the pan, and in most cases this is a sufficient test; however, in pound cakes this rule does not apply. Pound and rich fruit cakes are tested by pressing surface with tip of finger. If cake feels firm to touch and follows finger back into place, it is safe to remove it from the oven. When baking cake arrange to have nothing else in the oven, and place loaf or loaves as near the centre of oven as possible. If placed close to fire-box, one side of loaf is apt to become burned before sufficiently risen to turn. If cake is put in too slow an oven, it often rises over sides of pan and is of very coarse texture; if put in too hot an oven, it browns on top before sufficiently risen, and in its attempt to rise breaks through the crust, thus making an unsightly loaf. Cake will also crack on top if too much flour has been used. The oven should be kept at as nearly uniform temperature as possible. Small and layer cakes require a hotter oven than loaf cakes.

To Remove Cake From Pans. Remove cake from pans as soon as it comes from the oven, by inverting pan on a wire cake cooler, or on a board covered with a piece of old linen. If cake is inclined to stick, do not hurry it from pan, but loosen with knife around edges, and rest pan on its four sides successively; thus by its own weight cake may be helped out.

To Frost Cake. Where cooked frostings are used, it makes but little difference whether they are spread on hot or cold cake. Where uncooked frostings are used, it is best to have the cake slightly warm, with the exception of Confectioners’ Frosting, where boiling water is employed.

501

### Hot Water Sponge Cake

Yolks 2 eggs
1 cup sugar
⅜ cup hot water or milk
¼ teaspoon lemon extract
Whites two eggs
1 cup flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt

Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add one-half the sugar gradually, and continue beating; then add water, remaining sugar, lemon extract, whites of eggs beaten until stiff, and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder and salt. Bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven in a buttered and floured shallow pan.

### Cheap Sponge Cake

Yolks 3 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon hot water
1 cup flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
Whites 3 eggs
2 teaspoons vinegar

Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar gradually, and continue beating; then add water, flour mixed and sifted with baking powder and salt, whites of eggs beaten until stiff, and vinegar. Bake thirty-five minutes in a moderate oven, in a buttered and floured cake pan.

### Cream Sponge Cake

Yolks 4 eggs
1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons cold water
1½ tablespoons corn-starch
Flour
1¼ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
Whites 4 eggs
1 teaspoon lemon extract

Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar gradually, and beat two minutes; then add water. Put corn-starch in a cup and fill cup with flour. Mix and sift corn-starch and flour with baking powder and salt, and add to first mixture. When thoroughly mixed add whites of eggs beaten until stiff, and flavoring. Bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. This is an excellent mixture to use for whipped cream pies.

502

### Petit Four

Follow recipe for Cream Sponge Cake. Bake in a shallow pan, cool, and shape, using a small round cutter. Split, and remove a small portion of cake from the centre of each piece. Fill cavities of one-half the pieces with whipped cream sweetened and flavored, cover with remaining pieces, and press firmly together. Nuts or glacé fruits cut in pieces may be added to cream. Melt fondant, color, and flavor to taste. Dip cakes in fondant, decorate tops with pistachio nuts, violets, or glacé cherries, and place each in a paper case.

### Sponge Cake

Yolks 6 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Grated rind one-half lemon
Whites 6 eggs
1 cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt

Beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar gradually, and continue beating, using Dover egg-beater. Add lemon juice, rind, and whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. When whites are partially mixed with yolks, remove beater, and carefully cut and fold in flour mixed and sifted with salt. Bake one hour in a slow oven, in an angel cake pan or deep narrow pan.

Genuine sponge cake contains no rising properties, but is made light by the quantity of air beaten into both yolks and whites of eggs, and the expansion of that air in baking. It requires a slow oven. All so-called sponge cakes which have the addition of soda and cream of tartar or baking powder require same oven temperature as butter cakes. When failures are made in Sunshine and Angel Cake, they are usually traced to baking in too slow an oven, and removing from oven before thoroughly cooked.

### Sunshine Cake

Whites 10 eggs
1½ cups powdered sugar
Yolks 6 eggs
1 teaspoon lemon extract
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon cream of tartar

Beat whites of eggs until stiff and dry, add sugar gradually, and continue beating; then add yolks of eggs beaten 503until thick and lemon-colored, and extract. Cut and fold in flour mixed and sifted with cream of tartar. Bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven in an angel-cake pan.

### Mocha Cake

To one-half recipe for Sunshine Cake add one-half cup English walnut meats broken in pieces. Bake in a medium-sized angel-cake pan; cool, split, and fill with whipped cream sweetened and flavored with coffee essence. Cover top with Confectioners’ Frosting, flavored with coffee essence.

### Angel Cake

Whites 8 eggs
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 cup sugar
¾ cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon vanilla

Beat whites of eggs until frothy; add cream of tartar, and continue beating until eggs are stiff; then add sugar gradually. Fold in flour mixed with salt and sifted four times, and add vanilla. Bake forty-five to fifty minutes in an unbuttered angel-cake pan. After cake has risen and begins to brown, cover with a buttered paper.

### Moonshine Cake

Whites 10 eggs
¼ teaspoon salt
⅞ teaspoon cream of tartar
Yolks 7 eggs
1½ cups sugar
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 cup pastry flour

Add salt to whites of eggs and beat until light. Sift in cream of tartar and beat until stiff. Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored and add two heaping tablespoons beaten whites. To remaining whites add gradually sugar measured after five siftings. Add almond extract and combine mixtures. Cut and fold in flour, measured after five siftings. Bake in angel-cake pan, first dipped in cold water, in a slow oven one hour. Have a pan of hot water in oven during the baking. Cover with

Maraschino Frosting. Follow recipe for Ice Cream Frosting (see p. 528), adding to sugar one-half teaspoon cream of tartar, and flavor with maraschino. Sprinkle with almonds blanched, shredded, and baked until delicately browned.

504

### Lady Fingers

Whites 3 eggs
⅓ cup powdered sugar
Yolks 2 eggs
⅓ cup flour
⅛ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon vanilla

Beat whites of eggs until stiff and dry, add sugar gradually, and continue beating. Then add yolks of eggs beaten until thick and lemon-colored, and flavoring. Cut and fold in flour mixed and sifted with salt. Shape four and one-half inches long and one inch wide on a tin sheet covered with unbuttered paper, using a pastry bag and tube. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and bake eight minutes in a moderate oven. Remove from paper with a knife. Lady Fingers are much used for lining moulds that are to be filled with whipped cream mixtures. They are often served with frozen desserts, and sometimes put together in pairs with a thin coating of whipped cream between, when they are attractive for children’s parties.

### Sponge Drops

Drop Lady Finger mixture from tip of spoon on unbuttered paper. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and bake eight minutes in a moderate oven.

### Almond Tart

4 eggs
1 cup powdered sugar
⅓ cup grated chocolate
½ cup Jordan almonds, blanched and finely chopped
1 teaspoon baking powder
¾ cup cracker dust

Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored; add sugar gradually, then fold in white of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Add chocolate, almonds, baking powder, and cracker dust. Bake in a round pan. Cool, split, and put whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, between and on top. Garnish with angelica and candied cherries. This makes a most attractive dessert when baked in individual tins. As soon as cool, remove centres, and fill with whipped cream, forced through a pastry bag.

505

### Jelly Roll

3 eggs
1 cup sugar
½ tablespoon milk
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup flour
1 tablespoon melted butter

Beat egg until light, add sugar gradually, milk, flour mixed and sifted with baking powder and salt, then butter. Line the bottom of a dripping-pan with paper; butter paper and sides of pan. Cover bottom of pan with mixture, and spread evenly. Bake twelve minutes in a moderate oven. Take from oven and turn on a paper sprinkled with powdered sugar. Quickly remove paper, and cut off a thin strip from sides and ends of cake. Spread with jelly or jam which has been beaten to consistency to spread easily, and roll. After cake has been rolled, roll paper around cake that it may better keep in shape. The work must be done quickly, or cake will crack in rolling.

### Election Cake

½ cup butter
1 cup bread dough
1 egg
1 cup brown sugar
½ cup sour milk
⅔ cup raisins seeded, and cut in pieces
8 finely chopped figs
1¼ cups flour
½ teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon clove
¼ teaspoon mace
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt

Work butter into dough, using the hand. Add egg well beaten, sugar, milk, fruit dredged with two tablespoons flour, and flour mixed and sifted with remaining ingredients. Put into a well-buttered bread pan, cover, and let rise one and one-fourth hours. Bake one hour in a slow oven. Cover with Boiled Milk Frosting.

### One Egg Cake

¼ cup of butter
½ cup sugar
1 egg
½ cup milk
1½ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten. Mix and sift flour and baking powder, add alternately 506with milk to first mixture. Bake thirty minutes in a shallow pan. Spread with Chocolate Frosting.

### Chocolate Cake I

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
2 small eggs
½ cup milk
1½ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
2 ozs. chocolate, melted
½ teaspoon vanilla

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and yolks of eggs well beaten, then whites of eggs beaten until stiff. Add milk, flour mixed and sifted with baking powder, and beat thoroughly. Then add chocolate and vanilla. Bake forty minutes in a shallow cake pan.

### Chocolate Cake II

½ cup butter
1½ cups sugar
½ cup milk
2¼ cups flour
¼ teaspoon soda
¾ teaspoon cream of tartar
Whites 5 eggs
2 squares Baker’s chocolate, grated

Cream the butter; add sugar gradually, milk, and flour mixed and sifted with soda and cream of tartar. Beat whites of eggs, and add to first mixture; then add chocolate, and beat thoroughly. Bake forty-five minutes in a moderate oven.

### Chocolate Marshmallow Cake

Follow recipe for Chocolate Cake II. As soon as cake is removed from pan, cover bottom with marshmallows pulled apart with tips of fingers, but not quite separated into halves. The exposed soft surface will quickly adhere to hot cake. Pour over Chocolate Fudge Frosting.

### Chocolate Nougat Cake

¼ cup butter
1½ cups powdered sugar
1 egg
1 cup milk
2 cups bread flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon vanilla
2 squares chocolate, melted
⅓ cup powdered sugar
⅔ cup almonds, blanched and shredded

Cream the butter, add gradually one and one-half cups sugar, and egg unbeaten; when well mixed, add two-thirds 507milk, flour mixed and sifted with baking powder, and vanilla. To melted chocolate add one-third cup powdered sugar, place on range, add gradually remaining milk, and cook until smooth. Cool slightly, and add to cake mixture. Bake fifteen to twenty minutes in round layer cake pans. Put between layers and on top of cake White Mountain Cream sprinkled with almonds.

### Chocolate Dominoes

½ cup pecan nut meat
½ cup English walnut meat
½ cup figs
½ cup dates
Grated rind 1 orange
1 tablespoon orange juice
1 square chocolate, melted

Mix nut meats, figs, and dates, and force through a meat chopper, or chop finely. Add remaining ingredients, toss on a board sprinkled with powdered sugar, and roll to one-third inch in thickness. Cut in domino shapes, spread thinly with melted unsweetened chocolate, and decorate with small pieces blanched almonds to imitate dominoes.

### Cream Pie I

⅓ cup butter
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup milk
1¾ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder

Mix as One Egg Cake. Bake in round layer cake pans. Put Cream Filling between layers and sprinkle top with powdered sugar.

### Cream Pie II

Make as Cream Pie I, using French Cream Filling in place of Cream Filling.

### Cocoanut Pie

Mix and bake same as Cream Pie. Put Cocoanut Filling between layers and on top.

### Washington Pie

Mix and bake same as Cream Pie. Put raspberry jam or jelly between layers and sprinkle top with powdered sugar.

508

### Chocolate Pie

2 tablespoons butter
¾ cup sugar
1 egg
½ cup milk
1⅓ cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder

Mix and bake same as Cream Pie. Split layers, and spread between and on top of each a thin layer of Chocolate Frosting.

### Orange Cake

¼ cup butter
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup milk
1⅔ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, eggs well beaten, and milk. Then add flour mixed and sifted with baking powder. Bake in a thin sheet in a dripping-pan. Cut in halves, spread one-half with Orange Filling. Put over other half, and cover with Orange Frosting.

### Quick Cake

⅓ cup soft butter
1⅓ cups brown sugar
2 eggs
½ cup milk
1¾ cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon grated nutmeg
½ lb. dates, stoned and cut in pieces

Put ingredients in a bowl and beat all together for three minutes, using a wooden cake spoon. Bake in a buttered and floured cake pan thirty-five to forty minutes. If directions are followed this makes a most satisfactory cake; but if ingredients are added separately it will not prove a success.

### Boston Favorite Cake

⅔ cup butter
2 cups sugar
4 eggs
1 cup milk
3½ cups flour
5 teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, eggs beaten until light, then milk and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder. This recipe makes two loaves, or one-half the mixture may be baked in individual tins.

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### Cream Cake

2 eggs
1 cup sugar
⅔ cup thin cream
1⅔ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon mace
¼ teaspoon ginger

Put unbeaten eggs in a bowl, add sugar and cream, and beat vigorously. Mix and sift remaining ingredients, then add to first mixture. Bake thirty minutes in a shallow cake pan.

### Currant Cake

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
Yolk 1 egg
½ cup milk
2 cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup currants mixed with
1 tablespoon flour

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and eggs and egg yolk well beaten. Then add milk, flour mixed and sifted with baking powder, and currants. Bake forty minutes in buttered and floured cake pan.

### Citron Cake

¼ lb. butter
½ lb. sugar
3 eggs
½ cup milk
½ lb. flour
1 tablespoon brandy
1 cup citron, thinly sliced, then cut in strips
1½ teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, yolks of eggs well beaten, milk, and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder. Beat whites of eggs until stiff, and add to first mixture, then add brandy and citron. Bake in a moderate oven one hour.

### Velvet Cake

½ cup butter
1½ cups sugar
Yolks 4 eggs
½ cup cold water
1½ cups flour
½ cup corn-starch
4 teaspoons baking powder
Whites 4 eggs
⅓ cup almonds, blanched, and shredded

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, yolks of eggs well beaten, and water. Mix and sift flour, corn-starch, and 510baking powder, and add to first mixture; then add whites of eggs beaten until stiff. After putting in pan, cover with almonds and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Bake forty minutes in a moderate oven.

### Walnut Cake

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
Yolks 3 eggs
½ cup milk
1¾ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
Whites 2 eggs
¾ cup walnut meat, broken in pieces

Mix ingredients in order given. Bake forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Cover with White Mountain Cream, crease in squares, and put one-half walnut on each square.

### Spanish Cake

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
Yolks 2 eggs
½ cup milk
1¾ cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Whites 2 eggs

Mix ingredients in order given. Bake in shallow tins and spread between and on top Caramel Frosting.

### Cup Cakes

⅔ cup butter
2 cups sugar
4 eggs
1 cup milk
3¼ cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon mace

Put butter and sugar in a bowl, and stir until well mixed; add eggs well beaten, then milk, and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder and mace. Bake in individual tins. Cover with Chocolate Frosting.

### Cinnamon Cakes

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup milk
1¼ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
1 tablespoon cinnamon

Mix ingredients in the order given, and bake in individual buttered cake tins.

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### Almond Cakes

½ cup butter
¾ cup sugar
⅓ cup milk
2 eggs
1⅓ cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup Jordan almonds, blanched and cut in pieces

Mix ingredients in order given, and bake in individual cake pans.

### Brownies

⅓ cup butter
⅓ cup powdered sugar
⅓ cup Porto Rico molasses
1 egg, well beaten
⅞ cup bread flour
1 cup pecan meat, cut in pieces

Mix ingredients in order given. Bake in small shallow fancy cake tins, garnishing top of each cake with one-half pecan.

### Chocolate Sponge

½ cup butter
¼ cup prepared powdered cocoa
3 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon clove
½ cup cold water
1 cup flour
3 teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter; add cocoa, yolks of eggs well beaten, sugar mixed with cinnamon and clove, and water. Beat the whites of eggs, and add to first mixture alternately with flour mixed and sifted with baking powder. Bake in small tins from fifteen to twenty minutes.

### Devil’s Food Cake I

½ cup butter
2 cups sugar
Yolks 4 eggs
1 cup milk
2⅓ cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
Whites 4 eggs
2 squares chocolate
½ teaspoon vanilla

Cream the butter, and add gradually one-half the sugar. Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, and add gradually remaining sugar. Combine mixtures, and add alternately milk and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder; then add whites of eggs beaten stiff, chocolate melted, and vanilla. Bake forty-five to fifty minutes in an angel cake pan. Cover with White Mountain Cream (see p. 528).

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### Devil’s Food Cake II

4 squares Baker’s chocolate
½ cup sugar
½ cup sweet milk
Yolk 1 egg
¼ cup butter
½ cup sugar
¼ cup sour milk
1 egg
1⅛ cups flour
½ teaspoon soda
½ teaspoon vanilla

Melt chocolate over hot water, add one-half cup sugar, and gradually sweet milk; then add yolk of egg, and cook until mixture thickens. Set aside to cool. Cream the butter, add gradually one-half cup sugar, egg well beaten, sour milk, and flour mixed and sifted with soda. Combine mixtures and add vanilla. Bake in shallow cake pans, and put between and on top boiled frosting. Add to filling one-fourth cup raisins seeded and cut in pieces, if desired.

### Chocolate Vienna Cake

¾ cup butter
⅞ cup sugar
Yolks 5 eggs
4 squares Baker’s chocolate
1½ cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
Whites 5 eggs
Apricot or Orange Marmalade

Mix ingredients in order given, and bake in small tins. Remove from tins, cool, take out a small portion of cake from the centre of each, and fill cavity with marmalade. Cover tops of cake with Marshmallow Frosting or Chocolate Frosting IV.

### Chocolate Fruit Cake

⅓ cup butter
1 cup sugar
¼ cup Breakfast Cocoa
Yolks 3 eggs
½ cup cold water
1¼ cups bread flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon salt
⅓ cup candied cherries
⅓ cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
1½ tablespoons brandy
⅓ cup walnut meats, cut in pieces
Whites 3 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla

Cover fruit with brandy and let stand several hours. Mix ingredients in order given, and bake in deep cake pan fifty minutes. Cover with White Mountain Cream, and as soon 513as frosting is set, spread as thinly as possible with melted chocolate.

### Ribbon Cake

½ cup butter
2 cups sugar
Yolks 4 eggs
1 cup milk
3½ cups flour
5 teaspoons baking powder
Whites 4 eggs
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon mace
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
⅓ cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
⅓ cup figs, finely chopped
1 tablespoon molasses

Mix first seven ingredients in order given. Bake two-thirds of the mixture in two layer cake pans. To the remainder add spices, fruit, and molasses, and bake in a layer cake pan. Put layers together with jelly (apple usually being preferred, as it has less flavor), having the dark layer in the centre.

### Golden Spice Cake

½ cup butter
½ cup brown sugar
1 egg
Yolks 4 eggs
½ cup molasses
½ cup milk
2¼ cups flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon soda
½ teaspoon clove
¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
Few grains cayenne
Few gratings lemon rind

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg and yolks of eggs well beaten, molasses, milk, flour, mixed and sifted with spices, cayenne, and lemon rind. Bake in a moderate oven one hour, and cover with White Mountain Cream (see p. 528).

### Walnut Mocha Cake

½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
½ cup coffee infusion
1¾ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
Whites 3 eggs
¾ cup walnut meats, broken in pieces

Follow directions for mixing butter cake mixtures. Cover with Confectioners’ Frosting, using cream, and flavoring with vanilla.

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### Birthday Cake

½ cup butter
1¼ cups brown sugar
Yolks 2 eggs
⅔ cup milk
2¼ cups flour
3½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon orange extract
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons Sherry
½ cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
½ cup walnut meats, cut in pieces
⅓ cup currants
2 tablespoons candied orange peel, finely cut
Whites 2 eggs

Follow directions for making butter cake mixtures. Bake in a buttered and floured angel-cake pan in a slow oven one and one-quarter hours. Cover with Ornamental Frosting (see p. 532).

### Rich Coffee Cake

1 cup butter
2 cups sugar
4 eggs
2 tablespoons molasses
1 cup cold boiled coffee
3¾ cups flour
5 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon clove
½ teaspoon mace
½ teaspoon allspice
¾ cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
¾ cup currants
¼ cup citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips
2 tablespoons brandy

Follow directions for making butter cake mixtures. Bake in deep cake pans.

### Nut Spice Cake

½ cup butter
1 cup brown sugar
½ cup molasses
Yolks 4 eggs
1 cup sour milk
2½ cups flour
1 teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon clove
¼ nutmeg, grated
1 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
½ cup currants
½ cup English walnut meats, cut in pieces
1½ teaspoons baking powder

Mix ingredients in the order given. This recipe makes two loaves.

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### Dark Fruit Cake

½ cup butter
¾ cup brown sugar
¾ cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
¾ cup currants
½ cup citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips
½ cup molasses
2 eggs
½ cup milk
2 cups flour
½ teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon allspice
½ teaspoon mace
¼ teaspoon clove
½ teaspoon lemon extract

Follow directions for mixing butter cake mixtures. Bake in deep cake pans one and one-quarter hours.

### Nut Cakes

Meat from 1 lb. pecans
1 lb. powdered sugar
¼ cup flour
Whites 6 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla

Pound nut meat and mix with sugar and flour. Beat whites of eggs until stiff, add first mixture and vanilla. Drop from tip of tablespoon (allowing one spoonful for each cake) on a tin sheet covered with buttered paper. Bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven.

### Snow Cake

¼ cup butter
1 cup sugar
½ cup milk
1⅔ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
Whites 2 eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla or
¼ teaspoon almond extract

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake forty-five minutes in a deep narrow pan.

### Lily Cake

⅓ cup butter
1 cup sugar
½ cup milk
1¾ cups flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
Whites 3 eggs
⅓ teaspoon lemon extract
⅔ teaspoon vanilla

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes.

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### Corn-starch Cake

1 cup butter
2 cups sugar
1 cup milk
1 cup corn-starch
2 cups flour
4½ teaspoons baking powder
Whites 5 eggs
¾ teaspoon vanilla or
½ teaspoon almond extract

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. This mixture makes two loaves.

### Prune Almond Cake

Bake one-half Corn-starch Cake mixture in a dripping-pan. Cut in two crosswise, spread between layers Prune Almond Filling, and cover top with White Mountain Cream.

Prune Almond Filling. To one-half the recipe for White Mountain Cream add eight soft prunes stoned and cut in pieces, and one-fourth cup almonds blanched and cut in pieces.

### Marshmallow Cake

½ cup butter
1½ cups sugar
½ cup milk
2 cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
Whites 5 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake in shallow pans, and put Marshmallow Cream between the layers and on the top.

### Fig Éclair

½ cup butter (scant)
1 cup sugar
½ cup milk
1⅞ cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
Whites 4 eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake in shallow pans, put between layers Fig Filling, and sprinkle top with powdered sugar.

### Banana Cake

Mix and bake Fig Éclair mixture; put between layers White Mountain Cream covered with thin slices of banana, and frost the top. This should be eaten the day it is made.

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### Bride’s Cake

½ cup butter
1½ cups sugar
Whites six eggs
½ cup milk
2½ cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
½ teaspoon almond extract

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake forty-five to fifty minutes in deep, narrow pans. Cover with white frosting.

### Ice Cream Cake

½ cup butter
2 cups sugar
1 cup milk
3 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
Whites 4 eggs
Vanilla

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake in layers, and put between layers and on top Ice Cream Frosting.

### Light Fruit Cake

To Fig Éclair mixture add one-half cup raisins seeded and cut in pieces, two ounces citron thinly sliced and cut in strips, and one-third cup walnut meat cut in pieces. In making mixture, reserve one tablespoon flour to use for dredging fruit.

### White Nut Cake

¾ cup butter
1½ cups sugar
Whites 8 eggs
½ cup milk
2½ cups flour
½ teaspoon cream of tartar
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup walnut meat cut in pieces

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. This mixture makes two loaves.

### Golden Cake

¼ cup butter
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon orange extract
Yolks 5 eggs
¼ cup milk
⅞ cup flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and yolks of eggs beaten until thick and lemon-colored, and extract. Mix and sift flour and baking powder, and add alternately with milk to first mixture. Omit orange extract, add one-half cup nut meat cut in small pieces, and bake in individual tins.

518

### Mocha Cakes

Bake a sponge cake mixture in sheets. Shape in small rounds, and cut in three layers. Put layers together with a thin coating of frosting. Spread frosting around sides and roll in shredded cocoanut. Ornament top with frosting forced through a pastry bag and tube, using the rose tube. Begin at centre of top and coil frosting around until surface is covered. Garnish centre of top with a candied cherry.

Frosting. Wash one-third cup butter, add one cup powdered sugar gradually, and beat until creamy. Then add one cup Cream Filling which has been cooled. Flavor with one-half teaspoon vanilla and one and one-half squares melted chocolate.

This frosting is sometimes colored pink, yellow, green, or lavender, and flavored with rose, vanilla, or a combination of almond and vanilla. Large Mocha Cakes are baked in two round layer cake tins, each cake being cut in two layers. Layers are put together as small cakes. The top is spread smoothly with frosting, then ornamented with large pieces of candied fruits arranged in a design, and frosting forced through pastry bag and tube.

### Cream Cakes

½ cup butter
1 cup boiling water
4 eggs
1 cup flour

Pour butter and water in saucepan and place on front of range. As soon as boiling-point is reached, add flour all at once, and stir vigorously. Remove from fire as soon as mixed, and add unbeaten eggs one at a time, beating, until thoroughly mixed, between the addition of eggs. Drop by spoonfuls on a buttered sheet, one and one-half inches apart, shaping with handle of spoon as nearly circular as possible, having mixture slightly piled in centre. Bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. With a sharp knife make a cut in each large enough to admit of Cream Filling. This recipe makes eighteen small cream cakes. For flavoring cream filling use lemon extract. If cream cakes are removed from oven before being thoroughly cooked, they will fall. If in doubt, 519take one from oven, and if it does not fall, this is sufficient proof that others are cooked.

### French Cream Cakes

Fill Cream Cakes with Cream Sauce I.

### French Strawberry Cream Cakes

Shape cream cake mixture oblong, making twelves cakes. Split, and fill with Strawberry Cream Filling.

### Éclairs

Shape cream cake mixture four and one-half inches long by one inch wide, by forcing through a pastry bag and tube. Bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Split, and fill with vanilla, coffee, or chocolate cream filling. Frost with Confectioners’ Frosting to which is added one-third cup melted Fondant, dipping top of éclairs in frosting while it is hot.

### Lemon Queens

¼ lb. butter
½ lb. sugar
Grated rind 1 lemon
¾ tablespoon lemon juice
Yolks 4 eggs
5 ozs. flour
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon soda (scant)
Whites 4 eggs

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and continue beating. Then add grated rind, lemon juice, and yolks of eggs beaten until thick and lemon-colored. Mix and sift soda, salt, and flour; add to first mixture and beat thoroughly. Add whites of eggs beaten stiff. Bake from twenty to twenty-five minutes in small tins.

### Queen Cake

⅔ cup butter
2 cups flour (scant)
¼ teaspoon soda
Whites 6 eggs
1¼ cups powdered sugar
1½ teaspoons lemon juice

Cream the butter, add flour gradually, mixed and sifted with soda, then add lemon juice. Beat whites of eggs until stiff; add sugar gradually, and combine the mixtures. Bake fifty minutes in a long shallow pan. Cover with Opera Caramel Frosting.

520

### Pound Cake

1 lb. butter
1 lb. sugar
Yolks 10 eggs
Whites 10 eggs
1 lb. flour
½ teaspoon mace
2 tablespoons brandy

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and continue beating; then add yolks of eggs beaten until thick and lemon-colored, whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry, flour, mace, and brandy. Beat vigorously five minutes. Bake in a deep pan one and one-fourth hours in a slow oven; or if to be used for fancy ornamented cakes, bake thirty to thirty-five minutes in a dripping-pan.

### New York Gingerbread

1 cup butter (scant)
1½ cups flour
2 tablespoons yellow ginger
5 eggs
1½ cups powdered sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder

Cream the butter, and add flour gradually, mixed and sifted with ginger. Beat the yolks of the eggs until thick and lemon-colored, and add sugar gradually. Combine mixtures, add whites of eggs, beaten until stiff, and sift over baking powder. Beat thoroughly, turn into a buttered deep cake pan, and bake one hour in a moderate oven.

### Newport Pound Cake

Make same as New York Gingerbread, omitting ginger, and substituting one teaspoon vanilla extract.

### Christmas Cakes

Bake Newport Pound Cake in golden-rod pans, cut in fourths crosswise, spread with Ice Cream Frosting, and garnish with green leaves, made from ornamental frosting, and round red candies to imitate berries.

### Ginger Pound Cakes

Cream one half pound butter and add gradually one-half pound sugar, continuing the beating. Add three-fourths pound flour, mixed and sifted with two teaspoons baking powder alternately with four eggs beaten until thick and 521lemon-colored; then add one-half pound Canton ginger cut in small pieces. Bake in small buttered and floured individual cake pans in a slow oven. Cover with White Mountain Cream (see p. 528).

### Molasses Pound Cake

⅔ cup butter
¾ cup sugar
2 eggs
⅔ cup milk
⅔ cup molasses
2⅛ cups flour
¾ teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon allspice
¼ teaspoon clove
¼ teaspoon mace
½ cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
⅓ cup citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, eggs well beaten, and milk and molasses. Mix and sift flour with soda and spices, and add to first mixture, then add fruit. Bake in small buttered tins from twenty-five to thirty minutes in a moderate oven. This recipe makes twenty-four little cakes.

### English Fruit Cake

1 lb. butter
1 lb. light brown sugar
9 eggs
1 lb. flour
2 teaspoons mace
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon soda
2 tablespoons milk
3 lbs. currants
2 lbs. raisins, seeded and finely chopped
½ lb. almonds, blanched and shredded
1 lb. citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and beat thoroughly. Separate yolks from whites of eggs; beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored, whites until stiff and dry, and add to first mixture. Then add milk, fruit, nuts, and flour mixed and sifted with mace, cinnamon, and soda. Put in buttered deep pans, cover with buttered paper, steam three hours, and bake one and one half hours in a slow oven, or bake four hours in a very slow oven. Rich fruit cake is always more satisfactory when done if the cooking is accomplished by steaming.

522

### Wedding Cake I

1 lb. butter
1 lb. sugar
12 eggs
1 lb. flour
2 teaspoons cinnamon
Nutmeg | ¾ teaspoon each
Allspice
Mace
½ teaspoon clove
3 lbs. raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
1 lb. currants
1 lb. citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips
1 lb. figs, finely chopped
¼ cup brandy
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and beat thoroughly. Separate yolks from whites of eggs, beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored, whites until stiff and dry, and add to first mixture. Add flour (excepting one-third cup, which should be reserved to dredge fruit) mixed and sifted with spices, brandy, and lemon juice. Then add fruit, except citron, dredged with reserved flour. Dredge citron with flour and put in layers between cake mixture when putting in the pan. Bake same as English Fruit Cake.

### Wedding Cake II

1 lb. butter
1 lb. brown sugar
12 eggs
1 cup molasses
1 lb. flour
4 teaspoons cinnamon
4 teaspoons allspice
1½ teaspoons mace
1 nutmeg, grated
¼ teaspoon soda
3 lbs. raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
2 lbs. Sultana raisins
1½ lbs. citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips
1 lb. currants
½ preserved lemon rind
½ preserved orange rind
1 cup brandy
4 squares chocolate, melted
1 tablespoon hot water

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and beat thoroughly. Separate yolks from whites of eggs, and beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored. Add to first mixture, then add flour (excepting one-third cup, which should be reserved to dredge fruit), mixed and sifted with spices, fruit dredged with flour, lemon rind and orange rind finely chopped, brandy, chocolate, and whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. 523Just before putting into pans, add soda dissolved in hot water. Cover pans with buttered paper, and steam four hours. Finish cooking by leaving in a warm oven over night.

### Imperial Cake

½ lb. butter
½ lb. sugar
Yolks 5 eggs
Whites 5 eggs
Grated rind ½ lemon
2 teaspoons lemon juice
½ lb. raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
½ cup walnut meat, broken in pieces
½ lb. flour
¼ teaspoon soda

Mix same as Pound Cake, adding raisins dredged with flour, and nuts at the last.

524

## CHAPTER XXXII
CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS

### Cream Filling

⅞ cup sugar
⅓ cup flour
⅛ teaspoon salt
2 eggs
2 cups scalded milk
1 teaspoon vanilla or
½ teaspoon lemon extract

Mix dry ingredients, add eggs slightly beaten, and pour on gradually scalded milk. Cook fifteen minutes in double boiler, stirring constantly until thickened, afterwards occasionally. Cool and flavor.

### Chocolate Cream Filling

Put one and one-fourth squares Baker’s chocolate in a saucepan and melt over hot water. Add to Cream Filling, using in making one cup sugar in place of seven-eighths cup.

### Coffee Cream Filling

Flavor Cream Filling with one and one-half tablespoons coffee extract.

### French Cream Filling

¾ cup thick cream
¼ cup milk
¼ cup powdered sugar
White one egg
½ teaspoon vanilla

Dilute cream with milk and beat until stiff, using Dover egg-beater. Add sugar, white of egg beaten until stiff, and vanilla.

### Strawberry Filling

1 cup thick cream
⅓ cup sugar
White 1 egg
½ cup strawberries
½ teaspoon vanilla

Beat cream until stiff, using Dover egg-beater, add sugar, white of egg beaten until stiff, strawberries mashed, and vanilla.

525

### Lemon Filling

1 cup sugar
2½ tablespoons flour
Grated rind 2 lemons
¼ cup lemon juice
1 egg
1 teaspoon butter

Mix sugar and flour, add grated rind, lemon juice, and egg slightly beaten. Put butter in saucepan; when melted, add mixture, and stir constantly until boiling-point is reached. Care must be taken that mixture does not adhere to bottom of saucepan. Cool before spreading.

### Orange Filling

½ cup sugar
2½ tablespoons flour
Grated rind ½ orange
¼ cup orange juice
½ tablespoon lemon juice
1 egg slightly beaten
1 teaspoon butter

Mix ingredients in order given. Cook ten minutes in double boiler, stirring constantly. Cool before spreading.

### Chocolate Filling

2½ squares chocolate
1 cup powdered sugar
3 tablespoons milk
Yolk 1 egg
½ teaspoon vanilla

Melt chocolate over hot water, add one-half the sugar, and milk; add remaining sugar, and yolk of egg; then cook in double boiler until it thickens, stirring constantly at first, that mixture may be perfectly smooth. Cool slightly, flavor, and spread.

### Nut or Fruit Filling

To White Mountain Cream add chopped walnuts, almonds, figs, dates, or raisins, separately or in combination.

### Cocoanut Filling

Whites 2 eggs
Fresh grated cocoanut
Powdered sugar

Beat whites of eggs on a platter with a fork until stiff. Add enough powdered sugar to spread. Spread over cake, sprinkle thickly with cocoanut. Use for layer cake, having filling between and on top.

526

### Lemon Cocoanut Cream

Juice and grated rind 1 lemon
1 cup powdered sugar
Yolks 2 eggs
1 cup shredded cocoanut

Mix lemon juice and rind with sugar and yolks of eggs slightly beaten; cook ten minutes in double boiler, stirring constantly; then add cocoanut. Cool, and use as a filling for Corn-starch Cake, or any cake made from the whites of eggs.

### Fig Filling

½ lb. figs, finely chopped
⅓ cup sugar
⅓ cup boiling water
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Mix ingredients in the order given and cook in double boiler until thick enough to spread. Spread while hot. Figs may be chopped quickly by forcing through a meat chopper, stirring occasionally.

### Marshmallow Paste

¾ cup sugar
¼ cup milk
¼ lb. marshmallows
2 tablespoons hot water
½ teaspoon vanilla

Put sugar and milk in a saucepan, heat slowly to boiling-point without stirring, and boil six minutes. Break marshmallows in pieces and melt in double boiler, add hot water, and cook until mixture is smooth, then add hot syrup gradually, stirring constantly. Beat until cool enough to spread, then add vanilla. This may be used for both filling and frosting.

### Pistachio Paste

To Marshmallow Paste add a few drops extract of almond, one-third cup pistachio nuts blanched and chopped, and leaf green to color. Use same as Marshmallow Paste.

### Prune Almond Filling

To White Mountain Cream (see p. 528) add one-half cup selected prunes, stoned and cut in pieces, and one-third cup almonds blanched and chopped.

527

### Confectioners’ Frosting

2 tablespoons boiling water or cream
Confectioners’ sugar
Flavoring

To liquid add enough sifted sugar to make of right consistency to spread; then add flavoring. Fresh fruit juice may be used in place of boiling water. This is a most satisfactory frosting, and is both easily and quickly made.

### Orange Frosting

Grated rind 1 orange
1 teaspoon brandy
½ teaspoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon orange juice
Yolk 1 egg
Confectioners’ sugar

Add rind to brandy and fruit juices; let stand fifteen minutes. Strain, and add gradually to yolk of egg slightly beaten. Stir in confectioners’ sugar until of right consistency to spread.

### Gelatine Frosting

2½ tablespoons boiling water
½ teaspoon granulated gelatine
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla

Dissolve gelatine in boiling water. Add sugar and flavoring and beat until of right consistency to spread. Crease in squares when slightly hardened.

### Plain Frosting

White 1 egg
2 teaspoons cold water
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla or
½ tablespoon lemon juice

Beat white of egg until stiff; add water and sugar. Beat thoroughly, then add flavoring. Use more sugar if needed. Spread with a broad-bladed knife.

### Chocolate Frosting I

1½ squares chocolate
⅓ cup scalded cream
Few grains salt
Yolk 1 egg
½ teaspoon melted butter
Confectioners’ sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla

Melt chocolate over hot water, add cream gradually, salt, yolk of egg, and butter. Stir in confectioners’ sugar until of right consistency to spread; then add flavoring.

528

### Chocolate Frosting II

1¾ cups sugar
¾ cup hot water
4 squares chocolate, melted
½ teaspoon vanilla

Boil sugar and water, without stirring, until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon. Pour syrup gradually on melted chocolate, and continue beating until of right consistency to spread; then add flavoring.

### Chocolate Frosting III

2 squares chocolate
1 teaspoon butter
3 tablespoons hot water
Confectioners’ sugar
¼ teaspoon vanilla

Melt chocolate over boiling water, add butter and hot water. Cool, and add sugar to make of right consistency to spread. Flavor with vanilla.

### White Mountain Cream

1 cup sugar
⅓ cup boiling water
White 1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla or
½ tablespoon lemon juice

Put sugar and water in saucepan, and stir to prevent sugar from adhering to saucepan; heat gradually to boiling-point, and boil without stirring until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon or tines of silver fork. Pour syrup gradually on beaten white of egg, beating mixture constantly, and continue beating until of right consistency to spread; then add flavoring and pour over cake, spreading evenly with back of spoon. Crease as soon as firm. If not beaten long enough, frosting will run; if beaten too long, it will not be smooth. Frosting beaten too long may be improved by adding a few drops of lemon juice or boiling water. This frosting is soft inside, and has a glossy surface. If frosting is to be ornamented with nuts or candied cherries, place them on frosting as soon as spread.

### Ice Cream Frosting

2 cups sugar
6 tablespoons water
Whites 2 eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla

Follow directions for White Mountain Cream.

529

### Boiled Frosting

1 cup sugar
½ cup water
Whites 2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla, or
½ tablespoon lemon juice

Make same as White Mountain Cream. This frosting, on account of the larger quantity of egg, does not stiffen so quickly as White Mountain Cream, therefore is more successfully made by the inexperienced.

### Boiled Chocolate Frosting

To White Mountain Cream or Boiled Frosting add one and one half squares melted chocolate as soon as syrup is added to whites of eggs.

### Brown Frosting

Make same as Boiled Frosting, using brown sugar in place of white sugar.

### Maple Sugar Frosting

1 lb. soft maple sugar
½ cup boiling water
Whites 2 eggs

Break sugar in small pieces, put in saucepan with boiling water, and stir occasionally until sugar is dissolved. Boil without stirring until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon. Pour syrup gradually on beaten whites, beating mixture constantly, and continue beating until of right consistency to spread.

### Cream Maple Sugar Frosting

1 lb. soft maple sugar
1 cup cream

Break sugar in small pieces, put in saucepan with cream, and stir occasionally until sugar is dissolved. Boil without stirring until a ball can be formed when mixture is tried in cold water. Beat until of right consistency to spread.

### Milk Frosting

1½ cups sugar
½ cup milk
1 teaspoon butter
½ teaspoon vanilla

Put butter in saucepan; when melted, add sugar and milk. Stir, to be sure that sugar does not adhere to saucepan, 530heat to boiling-point, and boil without stirring thirteen minutes. Remove from fire, and beat until of right consistency to spread; then add flavoring and pour over cake, spreading evenly with back of spoon. Crease as soon as firm.

### Caramel Frosting I

Make same as Milk Frosting, adding one and one-half squares melted chocolate as soon as boiling-point is reached, and flavoring with one-eighth teaspoon cinnamon.

### Caramel Frosting II

1⅓ cups sugar
⅔ cup grated maple sugar
½ cup butter
⅔ cup cream

Mix ingredients and boil thirteen minutes. Beat until of right consistency to spread.

### Nut Caramel Frosting

1¼ cups brown sugar
⅓ cup water
¼ cup white sugar
Whites 2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
¼ cup English walnut meats, broken in pieces

Boil sugar and water as for White Mountain Cream. Pour gradually, while beating constantly, on beaten whites of eggs, and continue the beating until mixture is nearly cool. Set pan containing mixture in pan of boiling water, and cook over range, stirring constantly, until mixture becomes granular around edge of pan. Remove from pan of hot water and beat, using a spoon, until mixture will hold its shape. Add nuts and vanilla, pour on cake, and spread with back of spoon, leaving a rough surface.

### Opera Caramel Frosting

1½ cups brown sugar
¾ cup thin cream
½ tablespoon butter

Boil ingredients together in a smooth granite saucepan until a ball can be formed when mixture is tried in cold water. It takes about forty minutes for boiling. Beat until of right consistency to spread.

531

### Chocolate Fudge Frosting

1½ tablespoons butter
⅓ cup unsweetened powdered cocoa
1¼ cups confectioners’ sugar
Few grains salt
¼ cup milk
½ teaspoon vanilla

Melt butter, add cocoa, sugar, salt, and milk. Heat to boiling-point, and boil about eight minutes. Remove from fire and beat until creamy. Add vanilla and pour over cake.

### Mocha Frosting

⅓ cup butter
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar
1 tablespoon breakfast cocoa
Coffee infusion

Cream butter, and add sugar gradually, continuing the beating; then add cocoa and coffee infusion, drop by drop, until of right consistency to spread or force through a pastry bag and tube.

### Fondant Icing

The mixture in which small cakes are dipped for icing is fondant, the recipe for which may be found in chapter on Confections. Cakes for dipping must first be glazed.

To Glaze Cakes. Beat white of one egg slightly, and add one tablespoon powdered sugar. Apply with a brush to top and sides of cakes. After glazing, cakes should stand over night before dipping.

To Dip Cakes. Melt fondant over hot water, and color and flavor as desired. Stir, to prevent crust from forming on top. Take cake to be dipped on a three-tined fork and lower in fondant three-fourths the depth of cake. Remove from fondant, invert, and slip from fork to a board. Decorate with ornamental frosting and nut meat, candied cherries, angelica, or candied violets. For small ornamented cakes, pound cake mixture is baked a little more than one inch thick in shallow pans, and when cool cut in squares, diamonds, triangles, circles, crescents, etc.

### Marshmallow Frosting

Melt one cup white fondant; add the white of one egg beaten until stiff, and stir over the fire two minutes. Remove from range, and beat until of right consistency to spread. Flavor with one-fourth teaspoon water white vanilla. 532This is a most delicious frosting for chocolate cake, but will never spread perfectly smooth.

### Ornamental Frosting I

2 cups sugar
1 cup water
Whites 3 eggs
¼ teaspoon tartaric acid

Boil sugar and water until syrup when dropped from tip of spoon forms a long thread. Pour syrup gradually on beaten whites of eggs, beating constantly; then add acid and continue beating. When stiff enough to spread, put a thin coating over cake. Beat remaining frosting until cold and stiff enough to keep in shape after being forced through a pastry tube. After first coating on cake has hardened, cover with a thicker layer, and crease for cutting. If frosting is too stiff to spread smoothly, thin with a few drops of water. With a pastry bag and variety of tubes, cake may be ornamented as desired.

### Ornamental Frosting II

Whites 3 eggs
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Confectioners’ sugar, sifted

Put eggs in a large bowl, add two tablespoons sugar, and beat three minutes, using a perforated wooden spoon. Repeat until one and one-half cups sugar are used. Add lemon juice gradually, as mixture thickens. Continue adding sugar by spoonfuls, and beating until frosting is stiff enough to spread. This may be determined by taking up some of mixture on back of spoon, and with a case knife making a cut through mixture; if knife makes a clean cut and frosting remains parted, it is of right consistency. Spread cake thinly with frosting; when this has hardened, put on a thicker layer, having mixture somewhat stiffer than first coating, and then crease for cutting. To remaining frosting add enough more sugar, that frosting may keep in shape after being forced through a pastry bag and tube.

With a pastry bag and variety of tubes, cake may be ornamented as desired.

Cake Frosted for St. Valentine’s Day for the use of Mocha Frosting.—Page 531.

Ornamental Frosted Cake.—Page 532.

Dipped Walnuts.—Page 546.

Bonbons.—Page 545.

533

## CHAPTER XXXIII
FANCY CAKES AND CONFECTIONS

Almond paste for making macaroons and small fancy cakes may be bought of dealers who keep confectioners’ supplies, although sometimes a resident baker or confectioner will sell a small quantity. Almond paste is put up in five-pound tin pails, and retails for one and one-half dollars per pail. During the cold weather it will keep after being opened for a long time.

### Macaroons

½ lb. almond paste
Whites 3 eggs
⅜ lb. powdered sugar

Work together almond paste and sugar on a smooth board or marble slab. Then add whites of eggs gradually, and work until mixture is perfectly smooth. Confectioners at first use the hand, afterwards a palette knife, which is not only of use for mixing but for keeping board clean. Shape, using a pastry bag and tube, on a tin sheet covered with buttered paper, one-half inch apart; or drop mixture from tip of spoon in small piles. Macaroon mixture is stiff enough to hold its shape, but in baking spreads. Bake fifteen to twenty minutes in a slow oven. If liked soft, they should be slightly baked. After removing from oven, invert paper, and wet with a cloth wrung out of cold water, when macaroons will easily slip off.

### Almond Macaroons

Sprinkle Macaroons, before baking, with almonds blanched and shredded, or chopped.

534

### Crescents

½ lb. almond paste
2 ozs. confectioners’ sugar
White 1 small egg
Almonds, blanched and finely chopped

Mix same as Macaroons. Shape mixture, which is quite soft, in a long roll. Cut pieces from roll three-fourths inch long. Roll each separately in chopped nuts, at the same time shaping to form a crescent. Bake twenty minutes on a buttered tin sheet in a slow oven. Cool, and frost with Confectioners’ Frosting, made thin enough to apply with a brush, and flavored with lemon juice until quite acid. Other nuts may be used in place of almonds.

### Cinnamon Bars

10 ozs. almond paste
5 ozs. confectioners’ sugar
White 1 egg
½ teaspoon cinnamon

Mix same as Macaroons. Dredge a board with sugar, knead mixture slightly, and shape in a long roll. Pat, and roll one-fourth inch thick, using a rolling-pin. After rolling the piece should be four inches wide. Spread with frosting made of white of one egg and two-thirds cup confectioners’ sugar beaten together until stiff enough to spread. Cut in strips four inches long by three-fourths inch wide. This must be quickly done, as a crust soon forms over frosting. To accomplish this, use two knives, one placed through mixture where dividing line is to be made, and the other used to make a clean sharp cut on both sides of first knife. Knives should be kept clean by wiping on a damp cloth. Remove strips as soon as cut, to a tin sheet, greased with lard and then floured. Bake twenty minutes on centre grate in a slow oven.

### Horseshoes

Use Cinnamon Bar mixture. Cover with frosting colored with fruit red. Cut in strips six inches long by one-half inch wide. As soon as cut, shape quickly, at the same time carefully, in form of horseshoes. Bake same as Cinnamon Bars. When cool, make eight dots with chocolate frosting to represent nails.

535

### Cocoanut Cakes I

½ lb. fresh grated cocoanut
Whites 1½ eggs
6 ozs. sugar and glucose, using one mixing-spoon glucose
German Confectioner

Cook cocoanut, sugar, and glucose in double boiler until mixture clings to spoon, add whites of eggs, stir vigorously, and cook until mixture feels sticky when tried between the fingers. Spread in a wet pan, cover with wet paper, and chill on ice. Shape in small balls, first dipping hands in cold water. Bake twenty minutes in a slow oven on a tin sheet greased with white wax.

### Cocoanut Cakes II

1 lb. fresh grated cocoanut
¾ lb. sugar
Whites 2 eggs

Cook, shape, and bake same as Cocoanut Cakes I.

### Stuffed Dates I

Make a cut the entire length of dates and remove stones. Fill cavities with castanea nuts, English walnuts, or blanched almonds, and shape in original form. Roll in granulated sugar. Pile in rows on a small plate covered with a doily. If castanea nuts are used, with a sharp knife cut off the brown skin which lies next to shell.

### Stuffed Dates II

Remove stones from dates and fill cavities with Neufchâtel cheese.

### Salted Almonds I

Blanch one-fourth pound Jordan almonds and dry on a towel. Put one-third cup olive oil in a very small saucepan. When hot, put in one-fourth of the almonds and fry until delicately browned, stirring to keep almonds constantly in motion. Remove with a spoon or small skimmer, taking up as little oil as possible. Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with salt; repeat until all are fried. It may be 536necessary to remove some of the salt by wiping nuts with a napkin.

### Salted Almonds II

Prepare almonds as for Salted Almonds I. Fry in one-third cup fat, using half lard and half clarified butter or all cocoanut butter. Drain, and sprinkle with salt.

### Salted Peanuts

In buying peanuts for salting, get those which have not been roasted. Remove skins and fry same as Salted Almonds I or II.

### Salted Pecans

Shelled pecans may be bought by the pound, which is much the best way when used for salting, as it is difficult to remove the nut meat without breaking. Fry same as salted Almonds I or II. Care must be taken that they do not remain in fat too long; having a dark skin, color does not determine when they are sufficiently cooked.

### Parisian Sweets

1 lb. figs
1 lb. dates
1 lb. English walnut meat
Confectioners’ sugar

Pick over and remove stems from figs and stones from dates. Mix fruit with walnut meat, and force through a meat chopper. Work, using the hands, on a board dredged with confectioners’ sugar, until well blended. Roll to one-fourth inch thickness, using confectioners’ sugar for dredging board and pin. Shape with a small round cutter, first dipped in sugar, or cut with a sharp knife in three-fourth inch squares. Roll each piece in confectioners’ sugar, and shake to remove superfluous sugar. Pack in layers in a tin box, putting paper between each layer. These confections may be used at dinner in place of bonbons or ginger chips. A combination of nut meat (walnut, almond, and filbert) may be used in equal proportions.

537

### Sugared Popped Corn

2 quarts popped corn
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups brown sugar
½ cup water

Put butter in saucepan, and when melted add sugar and water. Bring to boiling-point, and let boil sixteen minutes. Pour over corn, and stir until every kernel is well coated with sugar.

### Molasses Candy

2 cups Porto Rico molasses
⅔ cup sugar
3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon vinegar

An iron kettle with a rounding bottom (Scotch kettle) or copper kettle is best for candy making. If one has no copper kettle, a granite kettle is best for sugar candies.

Put butter in kettle, place over fire, and when melted, add molasses and sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved. During the first of the boiling stirring is unnecessary, but when nearly cooked, it should be constantly stirred. Boil until, when tried in cold water, mixture will become brittle. Add vinegar just before taking from fire. Pour into a well buttered pan. When cool enough to handle, pull until porous and light-colored, allowing candy to come in contact with tips of fingers and thumbs, not to be squeezed in the hand. Cut in small pieces, using large shears or a sharp knife, and then arrange on slightly buttered plates to cool.

### Velvet Molasses Candy

1 cup molasses
3 cups sugar
1 cup boiling water
3 tablespoons vinegar
½ teaspoon cream of tartar
½ cup melted butter
¼ teaspoon soda

Put first four ingredients in kettle placed over front of range. As soon as boiling-point is reached, add cream of tartar. Boil until, when tried in cold water, mixture will become brittle. Stir constantly during last part of cooking. When nearly done, add butter and soda. Pour into a buttered pan and pull same as Molasses Candy. While pulling, add one teaspoon vanilla, one-half teaspoon lemon extract, few drops oil of peppermint, or few drops oil of wintergreen.

538

### Buttercups

2 cups molasses
1 cup sugar
½ cup boiling water
2 tablespoons butter
⅓ teaspoon cream of tartar
Fondant flavored with vanilla

Boil ingredients (except fondant) until, when tried in cold water, a firm ball may be formed in the fingers, not stirring until the last few minutes of cooking. Pour on a buttered platter, and when cool enough to handle, pull until light-colored. Shape on a floured board, having strip wide enough to enclose a roll of fondant one inch in diameter. Place fondant on candy, bring edges of candy together, and press firmly over fondant. With both hands pull candy into a long strip. Cut in small pieces; each piece will consist of fondant encircled with molasses candy. Care must be taken that candy is not cooked too long, as it should be soft rather than brittle.

### Vinegar Candy

2 cups sugar
½ cup vinegar
2 tablespoons butter

Put butter into kettle; when melted, add sugar and vinegar. Stir until sugar is dissolved, afterwards occasionally. Boil until, when tried in cold water, mixture will become brittle. Turn on a buttered platter to cool. Pull, and cut same as Molasses Candy.

### Ice Cream Candy

3 cups sugar
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
½ cup boiling water
½ tablespoon vinegar

Boil ingredients together without stirring, until, when tried in cold water, mixture will become brittle. Turn on a well buttered platter to cool. As edges cool, fold towards centre. As soon as it can be handled, pull until white and glossy. While pulling, flavor as desired, using vanilla, orange extract, coffee extract, oil of sassafras, or melted chocolate. Cut in sticks or small pieces.

539

### Butter Scotch

1 cup sugar
¼ cup molasses
1 tablespoon vinegar
2 tablespoons boiling water
½ cup butter

Boil ingredients together until, when tried in cold water, mixture will become brittle. Turn into a well buttered pan; when slightly cool, mark with a sharp-pointed knife in squares. This candy is much improved by cooking a small piece of vanilla bean with other ingredients.

### Butter Taffy

2 cups light brown sugar
¼ cup molasses
2 tablespoons vinegar
2 tablespoons water
⅞ teaspoon salt
¼ cup butter
2 teaspoons vanilla

Boil first five ingredients until, when tried in cold water mixture will become brittle. When nearly done, add butter, and just before turning into pan, vanilla. Cool, and mark in squares.

### Horehound Candy

¾ square inch pressed horehound
2 cups boiling water
3 cups sugar
½ teaspoon cream of tartar

Pour boiling water over horehound which has been separated in pieces; let stand one minute, then strain through double cheese-cloth. Put into a granite kettle with remaining ingredients, and boil until, when tried in cold water, mixture will become brittle. Turn into a buttered pan, cool slightly, then mark in small squares. Small square packages of horehound may be bought for five cents.

### Chocolate Caramels

2½ tablespoons butter
2 cups molasses
1 cup brown sugar
½ cup milk
3 squares chocolate
1 teaspoon vanilla

Put butter into kettle; when melted, add molasses, sugar, and milk. Stir until sugar is dissolved, and when 540boiling-point is reached, add chocolate, stirring constantly until chocolate is melted. Boil until, when tried in cold water, a firm ball may be formed in the fingers. Add vanilla just after taking from fire. Turn into a buttered pan, cool, and mark in small squares.

### Nut Chocolate Caramels

To Chocolate Caramels add the meat from one pound English walnuts broken in pieces, or one-half pound almonds blanched and chopped.

### Rich Chocolate Caramels

2 tablespoons butter
½ cup milk
½ cup sugar
1 cup molasses
4 squares chocolate
1 cup walnut meats, broken in pieces
2 teaspoons vanilla

Put butter in saucepan and when melted add milk, sugar and molasses. When boiling-point is reached add chocolate, and cook until brittle when tried in cold water, stirring occasionally to prevent mixture from adhering to pan. Remove from fire, beat three minutes, add nut meats and vanilla, and turn into a buttered pan. When cold cut in squares and wrap in paraffine paper.

### Peanut Nougat

1 lb. sugar
1 quart peanuts

Shell, remove skins, and finely chop peanuts. Sprinkle with one-fourth teaspoon salt. Put sugar in a perfectly smooth granite saucepan, place on range, and stir constantly until melted to a syrup, taking care to keep sugar from sides of pan. Add nut meat, pour at once into a warm buttered tin, and mark in small squares. If sugar is not removed from range as soon as melted, it will quickly caramelize.

### Nut Bar

Cover the bottom of a buttered shallow pan with one and one-third cups nut meat (castaneas, English walnuts, 541or almonds) cut in quarters. Pour over one pound sugar, melted as for Peanut Nougat. Mark in bars.

### French Nougat

½ lb. confectioners’ sugar
¼ lb. almonds, blanched and finely chopped
Confectioners’ chocolate

Put sugar in a saucepan, place on range, and stir constantly until melted; add almonds, and pour on an oiled marble. Fold mixture as it spreads with a broad-bladed knife, keeping it constantly in motion. Divide in four parts, and as soon as cool enough to handle shape in long rolls about one-third inch in diameter, keeping rolls in motion until almost cold. When cold, snap in pieces one and one-half inches long. This is done by holding roll at point to be snapped over the sharp edge of a broad-bladed knife and snapping. Melt confectioners’ chocolate over hot water, beat with a fork until light and smooth, and when slightly cooled dip pieces in chocolate and with a two-tined fork or bonbon dipper remove from chocolate to oiled paper, drawing dipper through top of each the entire length, thus leaving a ridge. Chocolate best adapted for dipping bonbons and confections must be bought where confectioners’ supplies are kept.

### Nougatine Drops

Drop French Nougat mixture from the tip of a spoon on an oiled marble very soon after taking from fire. These drops have a rough surface. When cold, dip in melted confectioners’ chocolate.

### Wintergreen Wafers

1 oz. gum tragacanth
1 cup cold water
Confectioners’ sugar
Oil of wintergreen

Soak gum tragacanth in water twenty-four hours and rub through a fine wire sieve; add enough confectioners’ sugar to knead. Flavor with a few drops of oil of wintergreen. If liked pink, color with fruit red. Roll until 542very thin on a board or marble dredged with sugar. Shape with a small round cutter or cut in three-fourths inch squares. Spread wafers, cover, and let stand until dry and brittle. This mixture may be flavored with oil of lemon, clove, sassafras, etc., and colored as desired.

### Cocoanut Cream Candy

1½ cups sugar
½ cup milk
2 teaspoons butter
⅓ cup shredded cocoanut
½ teaspoon vanilla

Put butter into granite saucepan; when melted, add sugar and milk, and stir until sugar is dissolved. Heat to boiling-point, and boil twelve minutes; remove from fire, add cocoanut and vanilla, and beat until creamy and mixture begins to sugar slightly around edge of saucepan. Pour at once into a buttered pan, cool slightly, and mark in squares. One-half cup nut meat, broken in pieces, may be used in place of cocoanut.

### Chocolate Cream Candy

2 cups sugar
⅔ cup milk
1 tablespoon butter
2 squares chocolate
1 teaspoon vanilla

Put butter into granite saucepan; when melted, add sugar and milk. Heat to boiling-point; then add chocolate, and stir constantly until chocolate is melted. Boil thirteen minutes, remove from fire, add vanilla, and beat until creamy and mixture begins to sugar slightly around edge of saucepan. Pour at once into a buttered pan, cool slightly, and mark in squares. Omit vanilla, if desired, and add, while cooking, one-fourth teaspoon cinnamon.

### Maple Sugar Candy

1 lb. soft maple sugar
¾ cup thin cream
¼ cup boiling water
⅔ cup English walnut or pecan meat, cut in pieces

Break sugar in pieces; put into a saucepan with cream and water. Bring to boiling-point, and boil until a soft ball 543is formed when tried in cold water. Remove from fire, beat until creamy, add nut meat, and pour into a buttered tin. Cool slightly, and mark in squares.

### Sultana Caramels

2 cups sugar
½ cup milk
¼ cup molasses
¼ cup butter
2 squares chocolate
1 teaspoon vanilla
½ cup English walnut or hickory nut meat, cut in pieces
2 tablespoons Sultana raisins

Put butter into a saucepan; when melted, add sugar, milk, and molasses. Heat to boiling-point, and boil seven minutes. Add chocolate, and stir until chocolate is melted; then boil seven minutes longer. Remove from fire, beat until creamy, add nuts, raisins, and vanilla, and pour at once into a buttered tin. Cool slightly, and mark in squares. The nut meats and raisins may be omitted.

### Pralines

1⅞ cups powdered sugar
1 cup maple syrup
½ cup cream
2 cups hickory nut or pecan meat, cut in pieces

Boil first three ingredients until, when tried in cold water, a soft ball may be formed. Remove from fire, and beat until of a creamy consistency; add nuts, and drop from tip of spoon in small piles on buttered paper, or mixture may be poured into a buttered tin and cut in squares, using a sharp knife.

### Creamed Walnuts

White 1 egg
½ tablespoon cold water
¾ teaspoon vanilla
1 lb. confectioners’ sugar
English walnuts

Put egg, water, and vanilla in a bowl, and beat until well blended. Add sugar gradually until stiff enough to knead. Shape in balls, flatten, and place halves of walnuts opposite each other on each piece. Sometimes all the sugar will not be required.

544

### Peppermints

1½ cups sugar
½ cup boiling water
6 drops oil peppermint

Put sugar and water into a granite saucepan and stir until sugar is dissolved. Boil ten minutes; remove from fire, add peppermint, and beat until of right consistency. Drop from tip of spoon on slightly buttered paper.

### BOILED SUGAR FOR CONFECTIONS

Eleven tests are considered for boiling sugar:—

Small thread, 215° F.
Large thread, 217°
Pearl, 220°
Large pearl, 222°
The blow, 230°
The feather, 232°
Soft ball, 238°
Hard ball, 248°
Small crack, 290°
Crack, 310°
Caramel, 350°

Fondant, the basis of all French candy, is made of sugar and water boiled together (with a small quantity of cream of tartar to prevent sugar from granulating) to soft ball, 238° F. The professional confectioner is able to decide when syrup has boiled to the right temperature by sound while boiling, and by testing in cold water; these tests at first seem somewhat difficult to the amateur, but only a little experience is necessary to make fondant successfully. A sugar thermometer is often employed, and proves valuable, as by its use one need not exercise his judgment.

#### White Fondant

2½ lbs. sugar
1½ cups hot water
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

Put ingredients into a smooth granite stewpan. Stir, place on range, and heat gradually to boiling-point. Boil without stirring until, when tried in cold water, a soft ball may be formed that will just keep in shape, which is 238° F. After a few minutes’ boiling, sugar will adhere to sides of kettle; this should be washed off with the hand first dipped in cold water. Have a pan of cold water near at 545hand, dip hand in cold water, then quickly wash off a small part of the sugar with tips of fingers, and repeat until all sugar adhering to side of saucepan is removed. If this is quickly done, there is no danger of burning the fingers. Pour slowly on a slightly oiled marble slab. Let stand a few minutes to cool, but not long enough to become hard around the edge. Scrape fondant with chopping knife to one end of marble, and work with a wooden spatula until white and creamy. It will quickly change from this consistency, and begin to lump, when it should be kneaded with the hands until perfectly smooth.

Put into a bowl, cover with oiled paper to exclude air, that a crust may not form on top, and let stand twenty-four hours. A large oiled platter and wooden spoon may be used in place of marble slab and spatula. Always make fondant on a clear day, as a damp, heavy atmosphere has an unfavorable effect on the boiling of sugar.

#### Coffee Fondant

2½ lbs. sugar
1½ cups cold water
¼ cup ground coffee
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

Put water and coffee in saucepan, and heat to boiling-point. Strain through double cheese-cloth; then add sugar and cream of tartar. Boil, and work same as White Fondant.

#### Maple Fondant

1¼ lbs. maple sugar
1¼ lbs. sugar
1 cup hot water
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

Break maple sugar in pieces and add to remaining ingredients. Boil, and work same as White Fondant.

#### Bonbons

The centres of bonbons are made of fondant shaped in small balls. If White Fondant is used, flavor as desired,—vanilla being usually preferred. For cocoanut centres, work as much shredded cocoanut as possible into a small quantity of fondant; for nut centres, surround pieces of nut meat with fondant, using just enough to cover. French candied cherries 546are often used in this way. Allow balls to stand over night, and dip the following day.

To Dip Bonbons. Put fondant in saucepan, and melt over hot water; color and flavor as desired. In coloring fondant, dip a small wooden skewer in coloring paste, take up a small quantity, and dip skewer in fondant. If care is not taken, the color is apt to be too intense. During dipping, keep fondant over hot water that it may be kept of right consistency. For dipping, use a two-tined fork or confectioners’ bonbon dipper. Drop centres in fondant one at a time, stir until covered, remove from fondant, put on oiled paper, and bring end of dipper over the top of bonbon, thus leaving a tail-piece which shows that bonbons have been hand dipped. Stir fondant between dippings to prevent a crust from forming.

#### Cream Mints

Melt fondant over hot water, flavor with a few drops of oil of peppermint, wintergreen, clove, cinnamon, or orange, and color if desired. Drop from tip of spoon on oiled paper. Confectioners use rubber moulds for shaping cream mints; but these are expensive for home use, unless one is to make mints in large quantities.

#### Cream Nut Bars

Melt fondant and flavor, stir in any kind of nut meat, cut in pieces. Turn in an oiled pan, cool, and cut in bars with a sharp knife. Maple Fondant is delicious with nuts.

#### Dipped Walnuts

Melt fondant and flavor. Dip halves of walnuts as bonbon centres are dipped. Halves of pecan or whole blanched almonds may be similarly dipped.

#### Tutti-Frutti Candy

Fill an oiled border-mould with three layers of melted fondant. Have bottom layer maple, well mixed with English walnut meat; the second layer colored pink, flavored 547with rose, and mixed with candied cherries cut in quarters and figs finely chopped; the third layer white, flavored with vanilla, mixed with nuts, candied cherries cut in quarters, and candied pineapple cut in small pieces. Cover mould with oiled paper, and let stand over night. Remove from mould, and place on a plate covered with a lace paper napkin. Fill centre with Bonbons and Glacé Nuts.

#### Glacé Nuts

2 cups sugar
1 cup boiling water
⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar

Put ingredients in a smooth saucepan, stir, place on range, and heat to boiling-point. Boil without stirring until syrup begins to discolor, which is 310° F. Wash off sugar which adheres to sides of saucepan, as in making fondant. Remove saucepan from fire, and place in larger pan of cold water to instantly stop boiling. Remove from cold water and place in a saucepan of hot water during dipping. Take nuts separately on a long pin, dip in syrup to cover, remove from syrup, and place on oiled paper.

#### Glacé Fruits

For Glacé Fruits, grapes, strawberries, sections of mandarins and oranges, and candied cherries are most commonly used. Take grapes separately from clusters, leaving a short stem on each grape. Dip in syrup made as for Glacé Nuts, holding by stem with pincers. Remove to oiled paper. Glacé fruits keep but a day, and should only be attempted in cold and clear weather.

#### Candied Orange Peel

Remove peel from four thin-skinned oranges in quarters. Cover with cold water, bring to boiling-point, and cook slowly until soft. Drain, remove white portion, using a spoon, and cut yellow portion in thin strips, using scissors. Boil one-half cup water and one cup sugar until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon. Cook strips in syrup five minutes, drain, and coat with fine granulated sugar.

548

#### Spun Sugar

2 lbs. sugar
2 cups boiling water
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

Put ingredients in a smooth saucepan. Boil without stirring until syrup begins to discolor, which is 300° F. Wash off sugar which adheres to sides of saucepan, as in making fondant. Remove saucepan from fire, and place in a larger pan of cold water to instantly stop boiling. Remove from cold water, and place in saucepan of hot water. Place two broomstick-handles over backs of chairs, and spread paper on the floor under them. When syrup is slightly cooled, put dipper in syrup, remove from syrup, and shake quickly back and forth over broom-handles. Carefully take off spun sugar as soon as formed, and shape in nests, or pile lightly on a cold dish. Syrup may be colored if desired. Spun Sugar is served around bricks or moulds of frozen creams and ices.

Dippers for spinning sugar are made of coarse wires; about twenty wires, ten inches long, are put in a bundle, and fastened with wire coiled round and round to form a handle.

Cream Mints.—Page 546.

Candied Orange Peel.—Page 547.

Bread and Butter Folds.—Page 549.

Noisette Sandwiches.—Page 552.

549

## CHAPTER XXXIV
SANDWICHES AND CANAPÉS

In preparing bread for sandwiches, cut slices as thinly as possible, and remove crusts. If butter is used, cream the butter, and spread bread before cutting from loaf. Spread half the slices with mixture to be used for filling, cover with remaining pieces, and cut in squares, oblongs, or triangles. If sandwiches are shaped with round or fancy cutters, bread should be shaped before spreading, that there may be no waste of butter. Sandwiches which are prepared several hours before serving time may be kept fresh and moist by wrapping in a napkin wrung as dry as possible out of hot water, and keeping in a cool place. Paraffine paper is often used for the same purpose. Bread for sandwiches cuts better when a day old. Serve sandwiches piled on a plate covered with a doily.

### Rolled Bread

Cut fresh bread, while still warm, in as thin slices as possible, using a very sharp knife. Spread evenly with butter which has been creamed. Roll slices separately, and tie each with baby ribbon.

### Bread and Butter Folds

Remove end slice from bread. Spread end of loaf sparingly and evenly with butter which has been creamed. Cut off as thin a slice as possible. Repeat until the number of slices required are prepared. Remove crusts, put together in pairs, and cut in squares, oblongs, or triangles. Use white, entire wheat, Graham, or brown bread. Three layer sandwiches are attractive when made of entire wheat bread between white slices.

550

### Lettuce Sandwiches

Put fresh, crisp lettuce leaves, washed and thoroughly dried, between thin slices of buttered bread prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds, having a teaspoon of Mayonnaise on each leaf.

### Egg Sandwiches

Chop finely the whites of “hard-boiled” eggs; force the yolks through a strainer or potato ricer. Mix yolks and whites, season with salt and pepper, and moisten with Mayonnaise or Cream Salad Dressing. Spread mixture between thin slices of buttered bread prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.

### Sardine Sandwiches

Remove skin and bones from sardines, and mash to a paste. Add to an equal quantity of yolks of “hard-boiled” eggs rubbed through a sieve. Season with salt, cayenne, and a few drops of lemon juice; moisten with olive oil or melted butter. Spread mixture between thin slices of buttered bread prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.

### Sliced Ham Sandwiches

Slice cold boiled ham as thinly as possible. Put between thin slices of buttered bread prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.

### Chopped Ham Sandwiches

Finely chop cold boiled ham, and moisten with Sauce Tartare. Spread between thin slices of buttered bread prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.

### Anchovy Sandwiches

Rub the yolks of “hard-boiled eggs” to a paste. Moisten with soft butter and season with Anchovy essence. Spread mixture between thin slices of buttered bread prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.

### Chicken Sandwiches

Chop cold boiled chicken, and moisten with Mayonnaise or Cream Salad Dressing; or season with salt and pepper, and 551moisten with rich chicken stock. Prepare as other sandwiches.

### Lobster Sandwiches

Remove lobster meat from shell, and chop. Season with salt, cayenne, made mustard, and lemon juice; or moisten with any salad dressing. Spread mixture on a crisp lettuce leaf, and prepare as other sandwiches.

### Lobster Sandwiches à la Boulevard

Mix an equal quantity of finely chopped lobster meat and the yolks of “hard-boiled” eggs forced through a sieve. Moisten with melted butter, and season with German mustard, beef extract diluted with a very small quantity of boiling water, and salt. Spread mixture between thin slices of buttered bread, remove crusts, and cut into fancy shapes. A small quantity of lobster meat is most successfully utilized in this way.

### Oyster Sandwiches

Arrange fried oysters on crisp lettuce leaves, allowing two oysters for each leaf, and one leaf for each sandwich. Prepare as other sandwiches.

### Nut and Cheese Sandwiches

Mix equal parts of grated Gruyère cheese and chopped English walnut meat; then season with salt and cayenne. Prepare as other sandwiches.

### Cheese and Anchovy Sandwiches

Cream two tablespoons butter, and add one-fourth cup grated Young America Cheese and one teaspoon vinegar. Season with salt, paprika, mustard, and anchovy essence. Spread mixture between thin slices of bread.

### Windsor Sandwiches

Cream one-third cup butter, and add one-half cup each of finely chopped cold boiled ham and cold boiled chicken. Season with salt and paprika. Spread mixture between thin slices of bread.

552

### Club Sandwiches

Arrange on slices of bread thin slices of cooked bacon; cover with slices of cold roast chicken, and cover chicken with Mayonnaise Dressing. Cover with slices of bread.

### Ginger Sandwiches

Cut preserved Canton ginger in very thin slices. Prepare as other sandwiches.

### Fruit Sandwiches

Remove stems and finely chop figs; add a small quantity of water, cook in double boiler until a paste is formed, then add a few drops of lemon juice. Cool mixture, and spread on thin slices of buttered bread; sprinkle with finely chopped peanuts and cover with pieces of buttered bread.

### Brown Bread Sandwiches

Brown Bread to be used for sandwiches is best steamed in one-pound baking-powder boxes. Spread and cut bread as for other sandwiches. Put between layers finely chopped peanuts seasoned with salt; or grated cheese mixed with chopped English walnut meat seasoned with salt.

### Noisette Sandwiches

Use one-half recipe for Milk and Water Bread made with entire wheat flour (see p. 54), and add two tablespoons molasses and one cup English walnut meats or pecan nut broken in small pieces. Let stand twenty-four hours, slice as thinly as possible, spread sparingly and evenly with butter, and put between slices orange marmalade. Remove crusts, cut in fancy shapes, and garnish with nut meats.

### Colonial Sandwiches

Make one-half the recipe for Milk and Water Bread (see p. 54), using entire wheat flour, and adding one and one-half tablespoons molasses, and after the first rising adding, while kneading, one-half cup, each, candied orange peel finely cut and pecan nut meats broken in pieces. Put into 553buttered one-pound baking-powder tins until one-third full; let rise and bake. Cool, and make into sandwiches.

### German Sandwiches

Use Zweiback (see p. 61). Spread slices, thinly cut, with jelly or marmalade, and sprinkle with finely cut English walnut meats. Cover with thinly cut slices and remove crusts.

### Russian Sandwiches

Spread zephyrettes with thin slices of Neufchâtel cheese, cover with finely chopped olives moistened with Mayonnaise Dressing. Place a zephyrette over each and press together.

### Jelly Sandwiches

Spread zephyrettes with quince jelly and sprinkle with chopped English walnut meat. Place a zephyrette over each and press together.

### Cheese Wafers

Sprinkle zephyrettes with grated cheese mixed with a few grains of cayenne. Put on a sheet and bake until the cheese melts.

### Canapés

Canapés are made by cutting bread in slices one-fourth inch thick, and cutting slices in strips four inches long by one and one-half inches wide, or in circular pieces. Then bread is toasted, fried in deep fat, or buttered and browned in the oven, and covered with a seasoned mixture of eggs, cheese, fish, or meat, separately or in combination. Canapés are served hot or cold, and used in place of oysters at a dinner or luncheon. At a gentleman’s dinner they are served with a glass of Sherry before entering the dining-room.

### Cheese Canapés I

Toast circular pieces of bread, sprinkle with a thick layer of grated cheese seasoned with salt and cayenne. Place on a tin sheet and bake until cheese is melted. Serve at once.

554

### Cheese Canapés II

Spread circular pieces of toasted bread with French Mustard, then proceed as for Cheese Canapés I.

### Sardine Canapés

Spread circular pieces of toasted bread with sardines (from which bones have been removed) rubbed to a paste, with a small quantity of creamed butter and seasoned with Worcestershire Sauce and a few grains cayenne. Place in the centre of each a stuffed olive, made by removing stone and filling cavity with sardine mixture. Around each arrange a border of the finely chopped whites of “hard-boiled” eggs.

### Lobster Canapés

Finely chop lobster meat and add an equal quantity of yolks of “hard-boiled” eggs forced through a sieve. Moisten with melted butter and heavy cream, using equal parts, and season highly with salt, cayenne, German mustard and beef extract. Spread on sautéd circular slices of bread and garnish with rings cut from whites of “hard-boiled” eggs, yolks of “hard-boiled” eggs, and lobster coral forced through a sieve.

### Canapés Martha

Beat yolk one egg, add one and one-half tablespoons cream, one-fourth teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon paprika, one-fourth teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce, and a few grains cayenne; then add one-fourth pound cheese cut in small pieces, and cook until smooth, stirring constantly. Spread on sautéd slices of bread, cut in fancy shapes, and cover with finely chopped lobster meat held together with a thick sauce made of Chicken Stock or cream, garnish with rings of whites of “hard-boiled” eggs, yolks of “hard-boiled” eggs, and lobster coral forced through a strainer, and rings of olives.

### Anchovy Canapés

Spread circular pieces of toasted bread with Anchovy Butter. Chop separately yolks and whites of “hard-boiled” eggs. Cover canapés by quarters with egg, alternating yolks and whites. Divide yolks from whites with anchovies split in two lengthwise, and pipe around a border of Anchovy Butter, using a pastry bag and tube.

Lobster Canapé.—Page 554.

Canapé Martha.—Page 554.

Jelly Bag and other necessary utensils for jelly making.
Page 573.

Marmalades, Jam, and Jellies, with paraffine to melt for covering, paper cut for covers, gummed labels, and Library Paste.
Page 574 to 577.

555

### Cheese and Olive Canapés

Cut stale bread in one-fourth inch slices. Shape with a small oblong cutter with rounded corners. Cream butter, add an equal quantity of soft cheese, and work until smooth; then season with salt. Spread on bread and garnish with a one-fourth inch border of finely chopped olives and a piece of red or green pepper cut in fancy shape, in centre of each. To be served in place of sandwiches on a plate covered with a doily.

### Canapés Lorenzo

Toast slices of bread cut in shape of horseshoes. Cream two tablespoons butter, and add one teaspoon white of egg. Spread slices of bread, rounding with Crab Mixture, cover with creamed butter, sprinkle with cheese, and brown in the oven. Serve on a napkin, ends towards centre of dish, and garnish with parsley.

Crab Mixture. Finely chop crab meat, season with salt, cayenne, and a few drops of lemon juice, then moisten with Thick White Sauce. Lobster meat may be used in place of crab meat.

### Algonquin Canapés

Fry one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion, three tablespoons butter, and one-third cup chopped mushroom caps five minutes. Add two tablespoons flour, and two-thirds cup cream. Cook until mixture thickens, then add one cup finnan haddie (soaked in lukewarm water to cover forty-five minutes, then separated into flakes), two tablespoons grated cheese, and yolks two eggs slightly beaten. Season with salt and cayenne and pile on circular pieces of toasted bread. Sprinkle with grated cheese, then with buttered, soft bread crumbs, and bake until crumbs are browned. Serve at once.

556

## CHAPTER XXXV
RECIPES FOR THE CHAFING-DISH

The chafing-dish, which, within the last few years, has gained so much favor, is by no means a utensil of modern invention, as its history may be traced to the time of Louis XIV. It finds its place on the breakfast table, when the eggs may be cooked to suit the most fastidious; on the luncheon table, when a dainty hot dish may be prepared to serve in place of the so-oft-seen cold meat; but it is made of greatest use for the cooking of late suppers, and always seems to accompany hospitality and good cheer.

It is appreciated and enjoyed by the housekeeper who does her own work, or has but one maid, as well as by the society girl who, by its use, first gains a taste for the art of cooking. The simple tin chafing-dishes may be bought for as small a sum as ninety cents, while the elaborate silver ones command as high a price as one hundred dollars. Very attractive dishes are made of granite ware, nickel, or copper. The latest patterns have the lamp with a screw adjustment to regulate the flame, and a metal tray on which to set dish, that it may be moved if necessary while hot, without danger of burnt fingers, and that it may not injure the polished table.

A chafing-dish has two pans, the under one for holding hot water, the upper one with long handle for holding food to be cooked. A blazer differs from a chafing-dish, inasmuch as it has no hot-water pan.

Wood alcohol, which is much lower in price than high-proof spirits, is generally used in chafing-dishes.

The Davy Toaster may be used over the chafing-dish for toasting bread and broiling.

557List of dishes previously given that may be prepared on the Chafing-Dish:—

German Toast
Dropped Eggs
Eggs à la Finnoise
Eggs à la Suisse
Scrambled Eggs
Scrambled Eggs with Tomato Sauce
Scrambled Eggs with Anchovy Toast
Buttered Eggs
Buttered Eggs with Tomatoes
Curried Eggs
French Omelet
Spanish Omelet
Creamed Fish
Halibut à la Rarebit
Creamed Oysters
Buttered Lobster
Creamed Lobster
Broiled Meat Cakes
Salmi of Lamb
Creamed Sweetbreads
Sautéd Sweetbreads
Chickens’ Livers with Madeira Sauce
Chickens’ Livers with Curry
Sautéd Chickens’ Livers Creamed Chicken
Chicken and Oysters à la Métropole
Stewed Mushrooms
Sautéd Mushrooms
Mushrooms à la Sabine
Soufflé au Rhum

### Scrambled Eggs with Sweetbreads

4 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
½ cup milk
1 sweetbread, parboiled and cut in dice
2 tablespoons butter

Beat eggs slightly, using a silver folk, add salt, pepper, milk, and sweetbread. Put butter in hot chafing-dish; when melted, pour in the mixture. Cook until of creamy consistency, constantly stirring and scraping from bottom of the pan.

### Scrambled Eggs with Calf’s Brains

Follow recipe for Scrambled Eggs with Sweetbreads, using calf’s brains in place of sweetbreads.

To Prepare Calf’s Brains. Soak one hour in cold water to cover. Remove membrane, and parboil twenty minutes in boiling, salted, acidulated water. Drain, put in cold water; as soon as cold, drain again, and separate in small pieces.

558

### Cheese Omelet

2 eggs
1 tablespoon melted butter
⅛ tablespoon salt
Few grains cayenne
1 tablespoon grated cheese

Beat eggs slightly, add one-half teaspoon melted butter, salt, cayenne, and cheese. Melt remaining butter, add mixture, and cook until firm, without stirring. Roll, and sprinkle with grated cheese. Serve with Graham bread sandwiches.

### Eggs au Beurre Noir

Butter
Salt
Pepper
4 eggs
1 teaspoon vinegar

Put one tablespoon butter in a hot chafing-dish; when melted, slip in carefully four eggs, one at a time. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook until whites are firm. Remove to a hot platter, care being taken not to break yolks. In same dish brown two tablespoons butter, add vinegar, and pour over eggs.

### Eggs à la Caracas

2 ozs. smoked dried beef
1 cup tomatoes
¼ cup grated cheese
Few drops onion juice
Few grains cinnamon
Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons butter
3 eggs

Pick over beef and chop finely, add tomatoes, cheese, onion juice, cinnamon, and cayenne. Melt butter, add mixture, and when heated, add eggs well beaten. Cook until eggs are of creamy consistency, stirring and scraping from bottom of pan.

### Union Grill

Clean one pint of oysters and drain off all the liquor possible. Put oysters in chafing-dish, and as liquor flows from oysters, remove with a spoon, and so continue until oysters are plump. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add two tablespoons butter. Serve on zephyrettes.

559

### Oysters à la D’Uxelles

1 pint oysters
2 tablespoons chopped mushrooms
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon lemon juice
Few grains cayenne
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon Sherry wine

Clean oysters, heat to boiling-point, and drain. Reserve liquor and strain through double thickness of cheese-cloth; there should be three-fourths cup. Cook butter and mushrooms five minutes, add flour, and oyster liquor gradually; then cook three minutes. Add seasonings, oysters, egg, and Sherry wine. Serve on zephyrettes or pieces of toasted bread.

### Oysters à la Thorndike

1 pint oysters
2 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Slight grating nutmeg
¼ cup thin cream
Yolks 2 eggs

Clean and drain oysters. Melt butter, add oysters, and cook until oysters are plump. Then add seasonings, cream, and egg yolks slightly beaten. Cook until sauce is slightly thickened, stirring constantly. Serve on zephyrettes or pieces of toasted bread.

### Jack’s Oyster Ragout

Parboil fresh honeycomb tripe, and cut in three-fourths inch pieces; there should be one cup. Add an equal quantity of small boiled onions, and twice the quantity of raw oysters which have been previously cleaned. Melt three tablespoons butter, add four tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually while stirring constantly one and one-half cups thin cream. Add tripe, onion, and oysters. When thoroughly heated add yolks two eggs slightly beaten, and season highly with salt, pepper, and paprika. Serve on pieces toasted bread.

560

### Lobster à la Delmonico

2 lb. lobster
¼ cup butter
¾ tablespoons flour
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Slight grating nutmeg
1 cup thin cream
Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons Sherry wine

Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in small cubes. Melt butter, add flour, seasonings, and cream gradually. Add lobster, and when heated, add egg yolks and wine.

### Lobster à la Newburg

2 lb. lobster
¼ cup butter
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Slight grating nutmeg
1 tablespoon Sherry
1 tablespoon brandy
⅓ cup thin cream
Yolks 2 eggs

Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in slices. Melt butter, add lobster, and cook three minutes. Add seasonings and wine, cook one minute, then add cream and yolks of eggs slightly beaten. Stir until thickened. Serve with toast or Puff Paste Points.

### Clams à la Newburg

1 pint clams
3 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
3 tablespoons Sherry or Madeira wine
½ cup thin cream
Yolks 3 eggs

Clean clams, remove soft parts, and finely chop hard parts. Melt butter, add chopped clams, seasonings, and wine. Cook eight minutes, add soft part of clams, and cream. Cook two minutes, then add egg yolks slightly beaten, diluted with some of the hot sauce.

### Shrimps à la Newburg

1 pint shrimps
3 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon flour
½ cup cream
Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons Sherry wine

Clean shrimps and cook three minutes in two tablespoons butter. Add salt, cayenne, and lemon juice, and cook one 561minute. Remove shrimps, and put remaining butter in chafing-dish, add flour and cream; when thickened, add yolks of eggs slightly beaten, shrimps, and wine. Serve with toast or Puff Paste Points.

### Fish à la Provençale

¼ cup butter
2½ tablespoons flour
2 cups milk
Yolks 4 “hard-boiled” eggs
1 teaspoon Anchovy essence
2 cups cold boiled flaked fish

Make a sauce of butter, flour, and milk. Mash yolks of eggs and mix with Anchovy essence, add to sauce, then add fish. Serve as soon as heated. Serve on pieces of toasted Graham bread.

### Grilled Sardines

Drain twelve sardines and cook in a chafing-dish until heated, turning frequently. Place on small oblong pieces of dry toast, and serve with Maître d’Hôtel or Lemon Butter.

### Sardines with Anchovy Sauce

Drain twelve sardines and cook in a chafing-dish until heated, turning frequently. Remove from chafing-dish. Make one cup Brown Sauce with one and one-half tablespoons sardine oil, two tablespoons flour, and one cup Brown Stock. Season with Anchovy essence. Reheat sardines in sauce. Serve with Brown Bread Sandwiches, having a slice of cucumber marinated with French Dressing between slices of bread.

### Creamed Sardines

Drain from oil one small box sardines, remove backbones from fish, then mash. Melt one-fourth cup butter, add one-fourth cup soft stale bread crumbs, and one cup cream. When thoroughly heated add two “hard-boiled” eggs finely chopped, the sardines, salt, pepper, and paprika to taste. Serve on pieces of toasted bread.

562

### Welsh Rarebit I

1 tablespoon butter
1 teaspoon corn-starch
½ cup thin cream
½ lb. soft mild cheese cut in small pieces
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon mustard
Few grains cayenne
Toast or zephyrettes

Melt butter, add corn-starch, and stir until well mixed, then add cream gradually, while stirring constantly, and cook two minutes. Add cheese, and stir until cheese is melted. Season, and serve on zephyrettes or bread toasted on one side, rarebit being poured over untoasted side. Much of the success of a rarebit depends upon the quality of the cheese. A rarebit should be smooth and of a creamy consistency, never stringy.

### Welsh Rarebit II

1 tablespoon butter
½ lb. soft mild cheese, cut in small pieces
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon mustard
Few grains cayenne
⅓ to ¼ cup ale or lager beer
1 egg

Put butter in chafing-dish, and when melted, add cheese and seasonings; as cheese melts, add ale gradually, while stirring constantly; then egg slightly beaten. Serve same as Welsh Rarebit I.

### Oyster Rarebit

1 cup oysters
2 tablespoons butter
½ lb. soft mild cheese, cut in small pieces
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
2 eggs

Clean, parboil, and drain oysters, reserving liquor; then remove and discard tough muscle. Melt butter, add cheese and seasonings; as cheese melts, add gradually oyster liquor, and eggs slightly beaten. As soon as mixture is smooth, add soft part of oysters. Serve on zephyrettes or bread toasted on one side, rarebit being poured over untoasted side.

563

### Tomato Rarebit

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
¾ cup thin cream
¾ cup stewed and strained tomatoes
⅛ teaspoon soda
2 cups finely cut cheese
2 eggs, slightly beaten
Salt
Mustard
Cayenne

Put butter in chafing-dish; when melted, add flour. Pour on, gradually, cream, and as soon as mixture thickens add tomatoes mixed with soda; then add cheese, eggs, and seasonings to taste. Serve, as soon as cheese has melted, on Graham Toast.

### English Monkey

1 cup stale bread crumbs 1 cup milk 1 tablespoon butter ½ cup soft mild cheese, cut in small pieces 1 egg ½ teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne

Soak bread crumbs fifteen minutes in milk. Melt butter, add cheese, and when cheese has melted, add soaked crumbs, egg slightly beaten, and seasonings. Cook three minutes, and pour over toasted crackers which have been spread sparingly with butter.

### Breaded Tongue with Tomato Sauce

Cut cold boiled corned tongue in slices one-third inch thick. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in egg and crumbs, and sauté in butter. Serve with Tomato Sauce I.

### Scotch Woodcock

4 “hard-boiled” eggs
3 tablespoons butter
1½ tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Anchovy essence

Make a thin white sauce of butter, flour, milk, and seasonings; add eggs finely chopped, and season with Anchovy essence. Serve same as Welsh Rarebit I.

564

### Shredded Ham with Currant Jelly Sauce

½ tablespoon butter
⅓ cup currant jelly
Few grains cayenne
¼ cup Sherry wine
1 cup cold cooked ham, cut in small strips

Put butter and currant jelly into the chafing-dish. As soon as melted, add cayenne, wine, and ham; simmer five minutes.

### Venison Cutlets with Apples

Wipe, core, and cut four apples in one-fourth inch slices. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and add one-third cup Port wine; cover, and let stand thirty minutes. Drain, and sauté in butter. Cut a slice of venison one-half inch thick in cutlets. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook three or four minutes in a hot chafing-dish, using just enough butter to prevent sticking. Remove from dish; then melt three tablespoons butter, add wine drained from apples, and twelve candied cherries cut in halves. Reheat cutlets in sauce, and serve with apples.

### Mutton with Currant Jelly Sauce

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
1 cup Brown Stock
⅓ cup currant jelly
1½ tablespoons Sherry wine
6 slices cold cooked mutton

Brown the butter, add flour, seasonings, and stock, gradually; then add jelly, and when melted, add mutton. When meat is heated, add wine. If mutton gravy is at hand, use instead of making a Brown Sauce.

### Minced Mutton

2 cups chopped cooked mutton
Yolks 6 “hard-boiled” eggs
¾ teaspoon mixed mustard
Salt
Cayenne
1 cup of cream
¼ cup wine

Mash the yolks, and season with mustard, salt, and cayenne. Add cream and mutton. When thoroughly heated add wine. Serve on toast.

565

### Devilled Bones

2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon Chili Sauce
1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
1 tablespoon Walnut Catsup
1 teaspoon made mustard
Few grains cayenne
Drumsticks, second joints, and wings of a cooked chicken
Salt
Pepper
Flour
Cup hot stock
Finely chopped parsley

Melt butter, and add Chili Sauce, Worcestershire Sauce, Walnut Catsup, mustard, and cayenne. Cut four small gashes in each piece of chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and cook in the seasoned butter until well browned. Pour on stock, simmer five minutes, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

### Devilled Almonds

2 ozs. blanched and shredded almonds
Butter
1 tablespoon Chutney
2 tablespoons chopped pickles
1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Fry almonds until well browned, using enough butter to prevent almonds from burning. Mix remaining ingredients, pour over nuts, and serve as soon as thoroughly heated. Serve with oysters.

### Devilled Chestnuts

Shell one cup chestnuts, cut in thin slices, and fry until well browned, using enough butter to prevent chestnuts from burning. Season with Tabasco Sauce or few grains paprika.

### Fruit Canapés

Make German Toast in circular pieces, cover with stewed prunes, figs, or jam. Serve with Cream Sauce I.

### Peach Canapés

Sauté circular pieces of sponge cake in butter until delicately browned. Drain canned peaches, sprinkle with powdered 566sugar, few drops lemon juice, and slight grating nutmeg. Melt one tablespoon butter, add peaches, and when heated, serve on cake.

### Fig Cups

½ lb. washed figs
Chopped salted almonds
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
½ cup wine

Stuff figs with almonds. Put sugar, lemon juice, and wine in chafing-dish; when heated, add figs, cover, and cook until figs are tender, turning and basting often. Serve with Lady Fingers.

567

## CHAPTER XXXVI
FRUITS: FRESH, PRESERVED, AND CANNED

Fruits are usually at their best when served ripe and in season; however, a few cannot be taken in their raw state, and still others are rendered more easy of digestion by cooking. The methods employed are stewing and baking. Fruit should be cooked in earthen or granite ware utensils, and silver or wooden spoons should be employed for stirring. It must be remembered that all fruits contain one or more acids, and when exposed to air and brought in contact with an iron or tin surface, a poisonous compound may be formed.

### How to Prepare Strawberries for Serving

1. Pick over strawberries, place in colander, pour over cold water, drain thoroughly, hull, and turn into dish. Serve with powdered sugar and cream.

2. Pick over selected strawberries, place in colander, pour over cold water, and drain thoroughly. Press powdered sugar into cordial glasses. Remove from glasses on centres of fruit plates. Arrange twelve berries around each mound of sugar. Berries served in this way should not be hulled.

### How to Prepare Cantaloupes and Muskmelons for Serving

Cantaloupes and muskmelons should be very ripe and thoroughly chilled in ice box before being prepared for serving. Wipe melons,—if small, cut in halves lengthwise; if larger, cut in sections, and remove seeds and stringy portion. If one-half is served as a portion, put in cavity one tablespoon crushed ice. Serve with salt or powdered sugar.

568

### How to Prepare Grapes for Serving

Put bunches in colander and pour over cold water, drain, chill, and arrange on serving dish. Imperfect grapes, as well as those under-ripe or over-ripe, should be removed. Garnish with grape leaves, if at hand.

### Ways of Preparing Oranges for Serving

1. Wipe orange and cut in halves crosswise. Place one-half on a fruit plate, having an orange spoon or teaspoon on plate at right of fruit.

2. Peel an orange and remove as much of the white portion as possible. Remove pulp by sections, which may be accomplished by using a sharp knife and cutting pulp from tough portion first on one side of section, then on the other. Should there be any white portion of skin remaining on pulp it should be cut off. Arrange sections on glass dish or fruit plate. If the orange is a seeded one, remove seeds.

3. Remove peel from an orange in such a way that there remains a one-half inch band of peel equal distance from stem and blossom end. Cut band, separate sections, and arrange around a mould of sugar.

### How to Prepare Grape Fruit for Serving

Wipe grape fruit and cut in halves crosswise. With a small, sharp-pointed knife make a cut separating pulp from skin around entire circumference; then make cuts separating pulp from tough portion which divides fruit into sections. Remove tough portion in one piece, which may be accomplished by one cutting with scissors at stem or blossom end close to skin. Sprinkle fruit pulp left in grape fruit skin generously with sugar. Let stand ten minutes, and serve very cold. Place on fruit plate and garnish with a candied cherry.

### Grape Fruit with Sherry

Prepare grape fruit for serving, add to each portion one tablespoon Sherry wine, and let stand one hour in ice box or cold place.

569

### Grape Fruit with Apricot Brandy

Prepare grape fruit for serving and add to each portion one-half tablespoon apricot brandy.

### Grape Fruit with Sloe Gin

Prepare grape fruit for serving and add to each portion one-half tablespoon sloe gin.

### Fruit Cocktail

Remove pulp from grape fruit, and mix with shredded pineapple, bananas cut in slices and slices cut in quarters, and strawberries cut in halves, using half as much pineapple and banana as grape fruit, and allowing four strawberries to each serve. There should be two cups fruit. Pour over a dressing made of one-third cup Sherry wine, three tablespoons apricot brandy, one-half cup sugar, and a few grains salt. Chill thoroughly, serve in double cocktail glasses, and garnish with candied cherries and leaves.

### Baked Apples

Wipe and core sour apples. Put in a baking-dish, and fill cavities with sugar and spice. Allow one-half cup sugar and one-fourth teaspoon cinnamon or nutmeg to eight apples. If nutmeg is used, a few drops lemon juice and few gratings from rind of lemon to each apple is an improvement. Cover bottom of dish with boiling water, and bake in a hot oven until soft, basting often with syrup in dish. Serve hot or cold with cream. Many prefer to pare apples before baking. When this is done, core before paring, that fruit may keep in shape. In the fall, when apples are at their best, do not add spices to apples, as their flavor cannot be improved; but towards spring they become somewhat tasteless, and spice is an improvement.

### Baked Sweet Apples

Wipe and core eight sweet apples. Put in a baking-dish, and fill cavities with sugar, allowing one-third cup, or sweeten with molasses. Add two-thirds cup boiling water. 570Cover, and bake three hours in a slow oven, adding more water if necessary.

### Apple Sauce

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare eight sour apples. Make a syrup by boiling seven minutes one cup sugar and one cup water with thin shaving from rind of a lemon. Remove lemon, add enough apples to cover bottom of saucepan, watch carefully during cooking, and remove as soon as soft. Continue until all are cooked. Strain remaining syrup over apples.

### Spiced Apple Sauce

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare eight sour apples. Put in a saucepan, sprinkle with one cup sugar, add eight cloves, and enough water to prevent apples from burning. Cook to a mush, stirring occasionally.

### Apple Ginger

Wipe, quarter, core, pare, and chop sour apples; there should be two and one-half pounds. Put in a stewpan and add one and one-half pounds light brown sugar, juice and rind of one and one-half lemons, one-half ounce ginger root, a few grains salt, and enough water to prevent apples from burning. Cover, and cook slowly four hours, adding water as necessary. Apple Ginger may be kept for several weeks.

### Apple Porcupine

Make a syrup by boiling eight minutes one and one-half cups sugar and one and one-half cups water. Wipe, core, and pare eight apples. Put apples in syrup as soon as pared, that they may not discolor. Cook until soft, occasionally skimming syrup during cooking. Apples cook better covered with the syrup; therefore it is better to use a deep saucepan and have two cookings. Drain apples from syrup, cool, fill cavities with jelly, marmalade, or preserved fruit, and stick apples with almonds blanched and split in halves lengthwise. Serve with Cream Sauce I.

571

### Baked Bananas I

Remove skins from six bananas and cut in halves lengthwise. Put in a shallow granite pan or on an old platter. Mix two tablespoons melted butter, one-third cup sugar, and two tablespoons lemon juice. Baste bananas with one-half the mixture. Bake twenty minutes in a slow oven, basting during baking with remaining mixture.

### Baked Bananas II

Arrange bananas in a shallow pan, cover, and bake until skins become very dark in color. Remove from skins, and serve hot sprinkled with sugar.

### Sautéd Bananas

Remove skins from bananas, cut in halves lengthwise, and again cut in halves crosswise. Dredge with flour, and sauté in clarified butter. Drain, and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

### Baked Peaches

Peel, cut in halves, and remove stones from six peaches. Place in a shallow granite pan. Fill each cavity with one teaspoon sugar, one-half teaspoon butter, few drops lemon juice, and a slight grating nutmeg. Cook twenty minutes, and serve on circular pieces of buttered dry toast.

### Baked Pears

Wipe, quarter, and core pears. Put in a deep pudding-dish, sprinkle with sugar or add a small quantity of molasses, then add water to prevent pears from burning. Cover, and cook two or three hours in a very slow oven. Small pears may be baked whole. Seckel pears are delicious when baked.

### Baked Quinces

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare eight quinces. Put in a baking dish, sprinkle with three-fourths cup sugar, add one and one-half cups water, cover, and cook until soft in a slow oven. Quinces require a long time for cooking.

572

### Cranberry Sauce

Pick over and wash three cups cranberries. Put in a stewpan, add one and one-fourth cups sugar and one cup boiling water. Cover, and boil ten minutes. Care must be taken that they do not boil over. Skim and cool.

### Cranberry Jelly

Pick over and wash four cups cranberries. Put in a stewpan with one cup boiling water, and boil twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve, add two cups sugar, and cook five minutes. Turn into a mould or glasses.

### Stewed Prunes

Wash and pick over prunes. Put in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and soak two hours; then cook until soft in same water. When nearly cooked, add sugar or molasses to sweeten. Many prefer the addition of a small quantity of lemon juice.

### Rhubarb Sauce

Peel and cut rhubarb in one-inch pieces. Put in a saucepan, sprinkle generously with sugar, and add enough water to prevent rhubarb from burning. Rhubarb contains such a large percentage of water that but little additional water is needed. Cook until soft. If rhubarb is covered with boiling water, allowed to stand five minutes, then drained and cooked, less sugar will be required. Rhubarb is sometimes baked in an earthen pudding-dish. If baked slowly for a long time it has a rich red color.

### JELLIES

Jellies are made of cooked fruit juice and sugar, in nearly all cases the proportions being equal. Where failures occur, they may usually be traced to the use of too ripe fruit.

To Prepare Glasses for Jelly. Wash glasses and put in a kettle of cold water; place on range, and heat water gradually 573to boiling-point. Remove glasses, and drain. Place glasses while filling on a cloth wrung out of hot water.

To Cover Jelly Glasses. Cut letter paper in circular pieces just to fit in top of glasses. Dip in brandy, and cover jelly. Put on tin covers or circular pieces of paper cut larger than the glasses, and fastened securely over the edge with mucilage. Some prefer to cover jelly with melted paraffine then to adjust covers.

To Make a Jelly Bag. Fold two opposite corners of a piece of cotton and wool flannel three-fourths yard long. Sew up in the form of a cornucopia, rounding at the end. Fell the seam to make more secure. Bind the top with tape, and furnish with two or three heavy loops by which it may be hung.

#### Apple Jelly

Wipe apples, remove stem and blossom ends, and cut in quarters. Put in a granite or porcelain-lined preserving kettle, and add cold water to come nearly to top of apples. Cover, and cook slowly until apples are soft; mash, and drain through a coarse sieve. Avoid squeezing apples, which makes jelly cloudy. Then allow juice to drip through a double thickness of cheese-cloth or a jelly bag. Boil twenty minutes, and add an equal quantity of heated sugar; boil five minutes, skim, and turn in glasses. Put in a sunny window, and let stand twenty-four hours. Cover, and keep in a cool, dry place. Porter apples make a delicious flavored jelly. If apples are pared, a much lighter jelly may be made. Gravenstein apples make a very spicy jelly.

To Heat Sugar. Put in a granite dish, place in oven, leaving oven door ajar, and stir occasionally.

#### Quince Jelly

Follow recipe for Apple Jelly, using quinces in place of apples, and removing seeds from fruit. Quince parings are often used for jelly, the better part of the fruit being used for canning.

#### Crab Apple Jelly

Follow recipe for Apple Jelly, leaving apples whole instead of cutting in quarters.

574

#### Currant Jelly

Currants are in the best condition for making jelly between June twenty-eighth and July third, and should not be picked directly after a rain. Cherry currants make the best jelly. Equal proportions of red and white currants are considered desirable, and make a lighter colored jelly.

Pick over currants, but do not remove stems; wash and drain. Mash a few in the bottom of a preserving kettle, using a wooden potato masher; so continue until berries are used. Cook slowly until currants look white. Strain through a course strainer, then allow juice to drop through a double thickness of cheese-cloth or a jelly bag. Measure, bring to boiling-point, and boil five minutes; add unequal measure of heated sugar, boil three minutes, skim, and pour into glasses. Place in a sunny window, and let stand twenty-four hours. Cover, and keep in a cool, dry place.

#### Currant and Raspberry Jelly

Follow recipe for Currant Jelly, using equal parts of currants and raspberries.

#### Blackberry Jelly

Follow recipe for Currant Jelly, using blackberries in place of currants.

#### Raspberry Jelly

Follow recipe for Currant Jelly, using raspberries in place of currants. Raspberry Jelly is the most critical to make, and should not be attempted if fruit is thoroughly ripe, or if it has been long picked.

#### Barberry Jelly

Barberry Jelly is firmer and of better color if made from fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the berries are still green. Make same as Currant Jelly, allowing one cup water to one peck barberries.

#### Grape Jelly

Grapes should be picked over, washed, and stems removed before putting into a preserving kettle. Heat to boiling-point, 575mash, and boil thirty minutes; then proceed as for Currant Jelly. Wild grapes make the best jelly.

#### Green Grape Jelly

Grapes should be picked when just beginning to turn. Make same as Grape Jelly.

#### Venison Jelly

1 peck wild grapes
1 quart vinegar
Whole cloves | ¼ cup each
Stick cinnamon
6 pounds sugar

Put first four ingredients into a preserving kettle, heat slowly to the boiling-point, and cook until grapes are soft. Strain through a double thickness of cheese-cloth or a jelly bag, and boil liquid twenty minutes; then add sugar heated, and boil five minutes. Turn into glasses.

#### Damson Jelly

Wipe and pick over damsons; then prick several times with a large pin. Make same as Currant Jelly, using three-fourths as much sugar as fruit juice.

### JAMS

Raspberries and blackberries are the fruits most often employed for making jams, and require equal weight of sugar and fruit.

#### Raspberry Jam

Pick over raspberries. Mash a few in the bottom of a preserving kettle, using a wooden potato masher, and so continue until the fruit is used. Heat slowly to boiling-point, and add gradually an equal quantity of heated sugar. Cook slowly forty-five minutes. Put in a stone jar or tumblers.

#### Blackberry Jam

Follow recipe for Raspberry Jam, using blackberries in place of raspberries.

576

### MARMALADES

Marmalades are made of the pulp and juice of fruits with sugar.

#### Grape Marmalade

Pick over, wash, drain, and remove stems from grapes. Separate pulp from skins. Put pulp in preserving kettle. Heat to boiling-point, and cook slowly until seeds separate from pulp; then rub through a hair sieve. Return to kettle with skins, add an equal measure of sugar, and cook slowly thirty minutes, occasionally stirring to prevent burning. Put in a stone jar or tumblers.

#### Quince Marmalade

Wipe quinces, remove blossom ends, cut in quarters, remove seeds; then cut in small pieces. Put into a preserving kettle, and add enough water to nearly cover. Cook slowly until soft. Rub through a hair sieve, and add three-fourths its measure of heated sugar. Cook slowly twenty minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Put in tumblers.

#### Orange Marmalade I

Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges. Weigh oranges, and allow three-fourths their weight in cut sugar. Remove peel from oranges in quarters. Cook peel until soft in enough boiling water to cover; drain, remove white part from peel by scraping it with a spoon. Cut thin yellow rind in strips, using a pair of scissors. This is more quickly accomplished by cutting through two or three pieces at a time. Divide oranges in sections, remove seeds and tough part of the skin. Put into a preserving kettle and heat to boiling-point, add sugar gradually, and cook slowly one hour; add rind, and cook one hour longer. Turn into glasses.

#### Orange Marmalade II

Slice nine oranges and six lemons crosswise with a sharp knife as thinly as possible, remove seeds, and put in a preserving kettle with four quarts water. Cover, and let stand thirty-six hours; then boil for two hours, add eight pounds sugar, and boil one hour longer.

Utensils necessary for canning.—Page 577.

Canned Fruits.—Page 579.

Red Peppers being prepared for canning.—Page 581.

Pickles ready for serving (Page 584). Crock for keeping Pickles.

577

#### Orange and Rhubarb Marmalade

Remove peel in quarters from eight oranges and prepare as for Orange Marmalade. Divide oranges in sections, remove seeds and tough part of skin. Put into a preserving kettle, add five pounds rhubarb, skinned and cut in one-half inch pieces. Heat to boiling-point, and boil one-half hour; then add four pounds cut sugar and cut rind. Cook slowly two hours. Turn into glasses.

#### Quince Honey

Pare and grate five large quinces. To one pint boiling water add five pounds sugar. Stir over fire until sugar is dissolved, add quince, and cook fifteen or twenty minutes. Turn into glasses. When cold it should be about the color and consistency of honey.

### CANNING AND PRESERVING

Preserving fruit is cooking it with from three-fourths to its whole weight of sugar. By so doing, much of the natural flavor of the fruit is destroyed; therefore canning is usually preferred to preserving.

Canning fruit is preserving sterilized fruit in sterilized air-tight jars, the sugar being added to give sweetness. Fruits may be canned without sugar if perfectly sterilized, that is, freed from all germ life.

#### Directions for Canning

Fruit for canning should be fresh, firm, of good quality, and not over-ripe; if over-ripe, some of the spores may survive the boiling, then fermentation will take place in a short time.

For canning fruit, allow one-third its weight in sugar, and two and one-half to three cups water to each pound of sugar. Boil sugar and water ten minutes to make a thin 578syrup; then cook a small quantity of the fruit at a time in the syrup; by so doing, fruit may be kept in perfect shape. Hard fruits, like pineapple and quince, are cooked in boiling water until nearly soft, then put in syrup to finish cooking. Sterilized jars are then filled with fruit, and enough syrup added to overflow jars. If there is not sufficient syrup, add boiling water, as jars must be filled to overflow. Introduce a spoon between fruit and jar, that air bubbles may rise to the top and break; then quickly put on rubbers and screw on sterilized covers. Let stand until cold, again screw covers, being sure this time that jars are air-tight. While filling jars, place them on a cloth wrung out of hot water.

#### To Sterilize Jars

Wash jars and fill with cold water. Set in a kettle on a trivet, and surround with cold water. Heat gradually to boiling-point, remove from water, empty, and fill while hot. Put covers in hot water and let stand five minutes. Dip rubber bands in hot water, but do not allow them to stand. New rubbers should be used each season, and care must be taken that rims of covers are not bent, as jars cannot then be hermetically sealed.

#### Canned Porter Apples

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare Porter apples, then weigh. Make a syrup by boiling for ten minutes one-third their weight in sugar with water, allowing two and one-half cups to each pound of sugar. Cook apples in syrup until soft, doing a few at a time. Fill jars, following Directions for Canning.

#### Canned Peaches

Wipe peaches and put in boiling water, allowing them to stand just long enough to easily loosen skins. Remove skins and cook fruit at once, that it may not discolor, following Directions for Canning. Some prefer to pare peaches, sprinkle with sugar, and let stand over night. In morning drain, add water to fruit syrup, bring to boiling-point, and then cook fruit. Peaches may be cut in halves, or smaller pieces if desired.

579

#### Canned Pears

Wipe and pare fruit. Cook whole with stems left on, or remove stems, cut in quarters, and core. Follow Directions for Canning. A small piece of ginger root or a few slicings of lemon rind may be cooked with syrup. Bartlett pears are the best for canning.

#### Canned Pineapples

Remove skin and eyes from pineapples; then cut in half-inch slices, and slices in cubes, at the same time discarding the core. Follow Directions for Canning. Pineapples may be shredded and cooked in one-half their weight of sugar without water, and then put in jars. When put up in this way they are useful for the making of sherbets and fancy desserts.

#### Canned Quinces

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare quinces. Follow Directions for Canning. Quinces may be cooked with an equal weight of sweet apples wiped, quartered, cored, and pared; in this case use no extra sugar for apples.

#### Canned Cherries

Use large white or red cherries. Wash, remove stems, then follow Directions for Canning.

#### Canned Huckleberries

Pick over and wash berries, then put in a preserving kettle with a small quantity of water to prevent berries from burning. Cook until soft, stirring occasionally, and put in jars. No sugar is required, but a sprinkling of salt is an agreeable addition.

#### Canned Rhubarb

Pare rhubarb and cut in one-inch pieces. Pack in a jar, put under cold water faucet, and let water run twenty minutes, then screw on cover. Rhubarb canned in this way has often been known to keep a year.

580

#### Canned Tomatoes

Wipe tomatoes, cover with boiling water, and let stand until skins may be easily removed. Cut in pieces and cook until thoroughly scalded; skim often during cooking. Fill jars, following directions given.

#### Damson Preserves

Wipe damsons with a piece of cheese-cloth wrung out of cold water, and prick each fruit five or six times, using a large needle; then weigh. Make a syrup by boiling three-fourths their weight in sugar with water, allowing one cup to each pound of sugar. As soon as syrup reaches boiling-point, skim, and add plums, a few at a time, that fruit may better keep in shape during cooking. Cook until soft. It is well to use two kettles, that work may be more quickly done, and syrup need not cook too long a time. Put into glass or stone jars.

#### Strawberry Preserves

Pick over, wash, drain, and hull strawberries; then weigh. Fill glass jars with berries. Make a syrup same as for Damson Preserve, cooking the syrup fifteen minutes. Add syrup to overflow jars; let stand fifteen minutes, when fruit will have shrunk, and more fruit must be added to fill jars. Screw on covers, put on a trivet in a kettle of cold water, heat water to boiling-point, and keep just below boiling-point one hour.

Raspberries may be preserved in the same way.

#### Pear Chips

8 lbs. pears
4 lbs. sugar
¼ lb. Canton ginger
4 lemons

Wipe pears, remove stems, quarter, and core; then cut in small pieces. Add sugar and ginger, and let stand over night. In the morning add lemons cut in small pieces, rejecting seeds, and cook slowly three hours. Put into a stone jar.

581

#### Raspberry and Currant Preserve

6 lbs. currants
6 lbs. sugar
8 quarts raspberries

Pick over, wash, and drain currants. Put into a preserving kettle, adding a few at a time, and mash. Cook one hour, strain through double thickness of cheese-cloth. Return to kettle, add sugar, heat to boiling-point, and cook slowly twenty minutes. Add one quart raspberries when syrup again reaches boiling-point, skim out raspberries, put in jar, and repeat until raspberries are used. Fill jars to overflowing with syrup, and screw on tops.

#### Brandied Peaches

1 peck peaches
Half their weight in sugar
1 quart high-proof alcohol or brandy

Remove skins from peaches, and put alternate layers of peaches and sugar in a stone jar; then add alcohol. Cover closely, having a heavy piece of cloth under cover of jar.

#### Tutti-Frutti

Put one pint brandy into a stone jar, add the various fruits as they come into market; to each quart of fruit add the same quantity of sugar, and stir the mixture each morning until all the fruit has been added. Raspberries, strawberries, apricots, peaches, cherries, and pineapples are the best to use.

#### Canned Red Peppers

Wash one peck red peppers, cut a slice from stem end of each, and remove seeds; then cut in thin strips by working around and around the peppers, using scissors or a sharp vegetable knife. Cover with boiling water, let stand two minutes, drain, and plunge into ice-water. Let stand ten minutes, again drain, and pack solidly into pint glass jars. Boil one quart vinegar and two cups sugar fifteen minutes. Pour over peppers to overflow jars, cover, and keep in a cold place.

582

#### Preserved Melon Rind

Pare and cut in strips the rind of ripe melons. Soak in alum water to cover, allowing two teaspoons powdered alum to each quart of water. Heat gradually to boiling-point and cook slowly ten minutes. Drain, cover with ice-water, and let stand two hours; again drain, and dry between towels. Weigh, allow one pound sugar to each pound of fruit, and one cup water to each pound of sugar. Boil sugar and water ten minutes. Add melon rind, and cook until tender. Remove rind to a stone jar, and cover with syrup. Two lemons cut in slices may be cooked ten minutes in the syrup.

#### Tomato Preserve

1 lb. yellow pear tomatoes
1 lb. sugar
2 ozs. preserved Canton ginger
2 lemons

Wipe tomatoes, cover with boiling water, and let stand until skins may be easily removed. Add sugar, cover, and let stand over night. In the morning pour off syrup and boil until quite thick; skim, then add tomatoes, ginger, and lemons which have been sliced and the seeds removed. Cook until tomatoes have a clarified appearance.

### PICKLING

Pickling is preserving in any salt or acid liquor.

#### Spiced Currants

7 lbs. currants
5 lbs. brown sugar
3 tablespoons cinnamon
3 tablespoons clove
1 pint vinegar

Pick over currants, wash, drain, and remove stems. Put in a preserving kettle, add sugar, vinegar, and spices tied in a piece of muslin. Heat to boiling-point, and cook slowly one and one-half hours. Store in a stone jar and keep in a cool place. Spiced currants are a delicious accompaniment to cold meat.

583

#### Sweet Pickled Peaches

½ peck peaches
2 lbs. brown sugar
1 pint vinegar
1 oz. stick cinnamon
Cloves

Boil sugar, vinegar, and cinnamon twenty minutes. Dip peaches quickly in hot water, then rub off the fur with a towel. Stick each peach with four cloves. Put into syrup, and cook until soft, using one-half peaches at a time.

#### Sweet Pickled Pears

Follow recipe for Sweet Pickled Peaches, using pears in place of peaches.

#### Chili Sauce

12 medium-sized ripe tomatoes
1 pepper, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cups vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoons clove
2 teaspoons cinnamon
2 teaspoons allspice
2 teaspoons grated nutmeg

Peel tomatoes and slice. Put in a preserving kettle with remaining ingredients. Heat gradually to boiling-point, and cook slowly two and one-half hours.

#### Ripe Tomato Pickle

3 pints tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 cup chopped celery
4 tablespoons chopped red pepper
4 tablespoons chopped onion
4 tablespoons salt
6 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons mustard seed
½ teaspoon clove
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
2 cups vinegar

Mix ingredients in order given. Put in a stone jar and cover. This uncooked mixture must stand a week before using, but may be kept a year.

#### Ripe Cucumber Pickle

Cut cucumbers in halves lengthwise. Cover with alum water, allowing two teaspoons powdered alum to each quart of water. Heat gradually to boiling-point, then let stand on 584back of range two hours. Remove from alum water and chill in ice-water. Make a syrup by boiling five minutes two pounds sugar, one pint vinegar, with two tablespoons each of whole cloves and stick cinnamon tied in a piece of muslin. Add cucumbers and cook ten minutes. Remove cucumbers to a stone jar, and pour over the syrup. Scald syrup three successive mornings, and return to cucumbers.

#### Unripe Cucumber Pickles (Gherkins)

Wipe four quarts small unripe cucumbers. Put in a stone jar and add one cup salt dissolved in two quarts boiling water and let stand three days. Drain cucumbers from brine, bring brine to boiling-point, pour over cucumbers, and again let stand three days; repeat. Drain, wipe cucumbers, and pour over one gallon boiling water in which one tablespoon alum has been dissolved. Let stand six hours, then drain from alum water. Cook cucumbers ten minutes, a few at a time, in one-fourth the following mixture heated to the boiling-point and boiled ten minutes:—

1 gallon vinegar
4 red peppers
2 sticks cinnamon
2 tablespoons allspice berries
2 tablespoons cloves

Strain remaining liquor over pickles which have been put in a stone jar.

#### Chopped Pickles

4 quarts chopped green tomatoes
¾ cup salt
2 teaspoons pepper
3 teaspoons mustard
3 teaspoons cinnamon
3 teaspoons allspice
3 teaspoons cloves
½ cup white mustard seed
4 green peppers, sliced
2 chopped onions
2 quarts vinegar

Add salt to tomatoes, cover, let stand twenty-four hours, and drain. Add spices to vinegar, and heat to boiling-point; then add tomatoes, peppers, and onions, bring to boiling-point, and cook fifteen minutes after boiling-point is reached. Store in a stone jar and keep in a cool place.

585

#### Spanish Pickles

1 peck green tomatoes, thinly sliced
4 onions, thinly sliced
1 cup salt
½ oz. cloves
½ oz. allspice berries
½ oz. peppercorns
½ cup brown mustard seed
1 lb. brown sugar
4 green peppers, finely chopped
Cider vinegar

Sprinkle alternate layers of tomatoes and onions with salt, and let stand over night. In the morning drain, and put in a preserving kettle, adding remaining ingredients, using enough vinegar to cover all. Heat gradually to boiling-point and boil one-half hour.

#### Chow-Chow

2 quarts small green tomatoes
12 small cucumbers
3 red peppers
1 cauliflower
2 bunches celery
1 pint small onions
2 quarts string beans
¼ lb. mustard seed
2 oz. turmeric
½ oz. allspice
½ oz. pepper
½ oz. clove
Salt
1 gallon vinegar

Prepare vegetables and cut in small pieces, cover with salt, let stand twenty-four hours, and drain. Heat vinegar and spices to boiling-point, add vegetables, and cook until soft.

#### Pickled Onions

Peel small white onions, cover with brine, allowing one and one-half cups salt to two quarts boiling water, and let stand two days; drain, and cover with more brine; let stand two days, and again drain. Make more brine and heat to boiling-point; put in onions and boil three minutes. Put in jars, interspersing with bits of mace, white peppercorns, cloves, bits of bay leaf, and slices of red pepper. Fill jars to overflow with vinegar scalded with sugar, allowing one cup sugar to one gallon vinegar. Cork while hot.

586

## CHAPTER XXXVII
HELPFUL HINTS FOR THE YOUNG HOUSEKEEPER

To Scald Milk. Put in top of double boiler, having water boiling in under part. Cover, and let stand on top of range until milk around edge of double boiler has a bead-like appearance.

For Buttered Cracker Crumbs, allow from one-fourth to one-third cup melted butter to each cup of crumbs. Stir lightly with a fork in mixing, that crumbs may be evenly coated and light rather than compact.

To Cream Butter. Put in a bowl and work with a wooden spoon until soft and of creamy consistency. Should buttermilk exude from butter it should be poured off.

To Extract Juice from Onion. Cut a slice from root end of onion, draw back the skin, and press onion on a coarse grater, working with a rotary motion.

To Chop Parsley. Remove leaves from parsley. If parsley is wet, first dry in a towel. Gather parsley between thumb and fingers and press compactly. With a sharp vegetable knife cut through and through. Again gather in fingers and recut, so continuing until parsley is finely cut.

To Caramelize Sugar. Put in a smooth granite saucepan or omelet pan, place over hot part of range, and stir constantly until melted and of the color of maple syrup. Care must be taken to prevent sugar from adhering to sides of pan or spoon.

To Make Caramel. Continue the caramelization of sugar until syrup is quite brown and a whitish smoke arises from 587it. Add an equal quantity of boiling water, and simmer until of the consistency of a thick syrup. Of use in coloring soups, sauces, etc.

Acidulated Water is water to which vinegar or lemon juice is added. One tablespoon of the acid is allowed to one quart water.

To Blanch Almonds. Cover Jordan almonds with boiling water and let stand two minutes; drain, put into cold water, and rub off the skins. Dry between towels.

To Shred Almonds. Cut blanched almonds in thin strips lengthwise of the nut.

Macaroon Dust. Dry macaroons pounded and sifted.

To Shell Chestnuts. Cut a half-inch gash on flat sides and put in an omelet pan, allowing one-half teaspoon butter to each cup chestnuts. Shake over range until butter is melted. Put in oven and let stand five minutes. Remove from oven, and with a small knife take off shells. By this method shelling and blanching is accomplished at the same time, as skins adhere to shells.

Flavoring Extracts and Wine should be added if possible to a mixture when cold. If added while mixture is hot, much of the goodness passes off with the steam.

Meat Glaze. Four quarts stock reduced to one cup.

Mixed Mustard. Mix two tablespoons mustard and one teaspoon sugar, add hot water gradually until of the consistency of a thick paste. Vinegar may be used in place of water.

To Prevent Salt from Lumping. Mix with corn-starch, allowing one teaspoon corn-starch to six teaspoons salt.

To Wash Carafes. Half fill with hot soapsuds, to which is added one teaspoon washing soda. Put in newspaper torn in small pieces. Let stand one-half hour, occasionally shaking. Empty, rinse with hot water, drain, wipe outside, and let stand to dry inside.

588 After Broiling or Frying, if any fat has spattered on range, wipe surface at once with newspaper.

To Remove Fruit Stains. Pour boiling water over stained surface, having it fall from a distance of three feet. This is a much better way than dipping stain in and out of hot water; or wring articles out of cold water and hang out of doors on a frosty night.

To Remove Stains of Claret Wine. As soon as claret is spilt, cover spot with salt. Let stand a few minutes, then rinse in cold water.

To Clean Graniteware where mixtures have been cooked or burned on. Half fill with cold water, add washing soda, heat water gradually to boiling-point, then empty, when dish may be easily washed. Pearline or any soap-powder may be used in place of washing soda.

To Wash Mirrors and Windows. Rub over with chamois skin wrung out of warm water, then wipe with a piece of dry chamois skin. This method saves much strength.

To Remove White Spots from Furniture. Dip a cloth in hot water nearly to boiling-point. Place over spot, remove quickly, and rub over spot with a dry cloth. Repeat if spot is not removed. Alcohol or camphor quickly applied may be used.

Tumblers which have contained milk should be first rinsed in cold water before washing in hot water.

To keep a Sink Drain free from grease, pour down once a week at night one-half can Babbitt’s potash dissolved in one quart water.

Should Sink Drain chance to get choked, pour into sink one-fourth pound copperas dissolved in two quarts boiling water. If this is not efficacious, repeat before sending for a plumber.

Never put Knives with ivory handles in water. Hot water causes them to crack and discolor.

589To prevent Glassware from being easily broken, put in a kettle of cold water, heat gradually until water has reached boiling-point. Set aside; when water is cold take out glass. This is a most desirable way to toughen lamp chimneys.

To Remove Grease Spots. Cold water and Ivory Soap will remove grease spots from cotton and woollen fabrics. Castilian Cream is useful for black woollen goods, but leaves a light ring on delicately colored goods. Ether is always sure and safe to use.

To Remove Iron Rust. Saturate spot with lemon juice, then cover with salt. Let stand in the sun for several hours; or a solution of hydrochloric acid may be used.

Iron Rust may be removed from delicate fabrics by covering spot thickly with cream of tartar, then twisting cloth to keep cream of tartar over spot; put in a saucepan of cold water, and heat water gradually to boiling-point.

To Remove Grass Stains from cotton goods, wash in alcohol.

To Remove Ink Stains. Wash in a solution of hydrochloric acid, and rinse in ammonia water. Wet the spot with warm water, put on Sapolio, rub gently between the hands, and generally the spot will disappear.

Cut Glass should be washed and rinsed in water that is not very hot and of same temperature.

In Sweeping Carpets, keep broom close to floor and work with the grain of the carpet. Occasionally turn broom that it may wear evenly.

Tie Strands of a New Broom closely together, put into a pail of boiling water, and soak two hours. Dry thoroughly before using.

Never wash the inside of Tea or Coffee Pots with soapsuds. If granite or agate ware is used, and becomes badly discolored, nearly fill pot with Cold water, add one tablespoon borax, and heat gradually until water reaches the boiling-point. 590Rinse with hot water, wipe, and keep on back of range until perfectly dry.

Never put cogs of a Dover Egg-beater in water.

Never wash Bread Boards in a sink. Scrub with grain of wood, using a small brush.

Before using a new Iron Kettle, grease inside and outside, and let stand forty-eight hours; then wash in hot water in which a large lump of cooking soda has been dissolved.

To clean a Copper Boiler, use Putz Pomade Cream. Apply with a woollen cloth when boiler is warm, not hot; then rub off with second woollen cloth and polish with flannel or chamois. If badly tarnished, use oxalic acid. Faucets and brasses are treated in the same way.

A bottle containing Oxalic Acid should be marked poison, and kept on a high shelf.

To keep an Ice Chest in good condition, wash thoroughly once a week with cold or lukewarm water in which washing soda has been dissolved. If by chance anything is spilt in an ice chest, it should be wiped off at once.

Milk and butter very quickly absorb odors, and if in ice chest with other foods, should be kept closely covered.

Hard Wood Floors and Furniture may be polished by using a small quantity of kerosene oil applied with a woollen cloth, then rubbing with a clean woollen cloth. A very good furniture polish is made by using equal parts linseed oil and turpentine.

Polish for Hard Wood Floors. Use one part beeswax to two parts turpentine. Put in saucepan on range, and when wax is dissolved a paste will be formed.

To clean Piano Keys, rub over with alcohol.

To remove old Tea and Coffee Stains, wet spot with cold water, cover with glycerine, and let stand two or three hours. Then wash with cold water and hard soap. Repeat if necessary.

591Before Sweeping Old Carpets, sprinkle with pieces of newspaper wrung out of water. After sweeping, wipe over with a cloth wrung out of a weak solution of ammonia water, which seems to brighten colors.

Platt’s Chloride is one of the best Disinfectants. Chloride of lime is a valuable disinfectant, and much cheaper than Platt’s Chloride.

Listerine is an excellent disinfectant to use for the mouth and throat.

To Make a Pastry Bag. Fold a twelve-inch square of rubber cloth from two opposite corners. Sew edges together, forming a triangular bag. Cut off point to make opening large enough to insert a tin pastry tube. A set comprising bag and twelve adjustable tubes may be bought for two and one-half dollars.

Smoked Ceilings may be cleaned by washing with cloths wrung out of water in which a small piece of washing soda has been dissolved.

For a Burn apply equal parts of white of egg and olive oil mixed together, then cover with a piece of old linen; if applied at once no blister will form. Or apply at once cooking soda, then cover with cloth and keep the same wet with cold water. This takes out the pain and prevents blistering.

Curtain and Portière Poles allow the hangings to slip easily if rubbed with hard soap. This is much better than greasing.

Creaking Doors and Drawers should be treated in the same way.

To Remove Dust from Rattan Furniture use a painter’s small brush.

592

## CHAPTER XXXVIII
SUITABLE COMBINATIONS FOR SERVING

### Breakfast Menus

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Table laid for Breakfast.—Page 592.

Luncheon table laid for Fish Course, Soup Course presumably having been removed.—Page 594.

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### Luncheon Menus

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Table laid for Formal Luncheon.—Page 596.

Centrepiece for Luncheon or Dinner Table.—Page 598.

Centrepiece for Thanksgiving Dinner Table.—Page 598.

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### Dinner Menus

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### Menu for Thanksgiving Dinner

### Menu for Christmas Dinner

### A Full Course Dinner

### First Course

Little Neck Clams or Bluepoints, with brown-bread sandwiches. Sometimes canapés are used in place of either. For a gentleman’s dinner, canapés accompanied with Sherry wine are frequently served before guests enter the dining-room.

### Second Course

Clear soup, with bread sticks, small rolls, or crisp crackers. Where two soups are served, one may be a cream soup. Cream soups are served with croûtons. Radishes, celery, or olives are passed after the soup. Salted almonds may be passed between any of the courses.

Christmas Dinner Table.—Page 600.

Table laid for Reception.—Page 602.

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### Third Course

Bouchées or rissoles. The filling to be of light meat.

### Fourth Course

Fish, baked, boiled, or fried. Cole-slaw, dressed cucumbers, or tomatoes accompany this course; with fried fish potatoes are often served.

### Fifth Course

Roast saddle of venison or mutton, spring lamb, or fillet of beef; potatoes and one other vegetable.

### Sixth Course

Entrée, made of light meat or fish.

### Seventh Course

A vegetable. Mushrooms, cauliflower, asparagus, or artichokes are served.

### Eighth Course

Punch or cheese course. Punch, when served, always precedes the game course.

### Ninth Course

Game, with vegetable salad, usually lettuce or celery; or cheese sticks may be served with the salad, and game omitted.

### Tenth Course

Dessert, usually cold.

### Eleventh Course

Frozen dessert and fancy cakes. Bonbons are passed after this course.

### Twelfth Course

Cracker, cheese, and café noir. Café noir is frequently served in the drawing and smoking rooms after the dinner.

Where wines and liquors are served, the first course is not usually accompanied by either; but if desired, Sauterne or other white wine may be used.

With soup, serve Sherry; with fish, white wine; with game, Claret; with roast and other courses, Champagne.

602After serving café noir in drawing-room, pass pony of brandy for men, sweet liqueur (Chartreuse, Benedictine, or Parfait d’Amour) for women; then Crême de Menthe for all.

After a short time Apollinaris should be passed. White wines should be served cool; Sherry should be as near the temperature of the room in which it is served as possible. Champagne should be served very cold by allowing it to remain in salt and ice at least one-half hour before dinner time. Claret, served without cooling, and as it contains so small amount of alcohol, is not good the day after opening.

For a simpler dinner, the third, seventh, eighth, and tenth courses, and the game in the ninth course, may be omitted.

For a home dinner, it is always desirable to serve for first course a soup; second course, meat or fish, with potatoes and two other vegetables; third course, a vegetable salad, with French dressing; fourth course, dessert; fifth course, crackers, cheese, and café noir.

At a ladies’ luncheon the courses are as many as at a small dinner. In winter, grape fruit is sometimes served in place of oysters; in summer, selected strawberries in small Swedish Timbale cases.

### Menus for Full Course Dinners

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## GLOSSARY

Accolade de perdreaux. Brace of partridge.

Agneau. Lamb.

Agra dolce (sour sweet). An Italian sauce served with meat.

À la, au, aux. With or dressed in a certain style.

Allemande (à la). In German style.

Ambrosia. Food for the gods. Often applied to a fruit salad.

Américaine (à l’). In American style.

Ancienne (à l’). In old style.

Angelica. A plant, the stalks of which are preserved and used for decorating moulds.

Asafetida. A gum resin. Its taste is bitter and sub-acrid, and by the Asiatics it is used regularly as a condiment.

Asperges. Asparagus.

Au gratin. With browned crumbs.

Aurora sauce. A white sauce to which lobster butter is added.

Avena. Oats.

Baba Cakes. Cakes baked in small moulds; made from a yeast dough mixture to which is added butter, sugar, eggs, raisins, and almonds. Served as a pudding with hot sauce.

Bain-Marie. A vessel of any kind containing heated water, in which other vessels are placed in order to keep their contents heated.

Bannocks. Scottish cakes made of barley or oatmeal, cooked on a griddle.

Bards. Slices of pork or bacon to lay on the breast of game for cooking.

Basil. A pot herb.

Bay leaves. Leaves from a species of laurel.

Béarnaise (à la). In Swiss style.

Béarnaise sauce. Named from Béarnaise, Swiss home of Henry IV.

Béchamel (à la). With sauce made of chicken stock and milk or cream.

Beignet. Fritter.

Beurre noir. Black butter.

Biscuit Glacé. Small cakes of ice cream.

Bisque. A soup usually made from shell-fish; or an ice cream to which is added finely chopped nuts.

Blanch (to). To whiten.

Blanquette. White meat in cream sauce.

Bœuf braisé. Braised beef.

Bœuf à la jardinière. Braised beef with vegetables.

Bombe glacée. Moulded ice cream and ice, or two kinds of ice cream. Outside of one kind, filling of another.

Bouchées. Literally, mouthful. Small patties.

Bouquet of herbs. A sprig each of thyme, savory, marjoram, and parsley.

Bourgeoise (à la). In family style.

Bretonne sauce. A stock sauce in which chopped parsley is served.

Café noir. Black coffee.

Cervelles de veau. Calf’s brains.

Chartreuse. A mould of aspic in which there are vegetables; a meat preparation filling the centre of the mould. Used to denote anything concealed.

Chateaubriand. A cut from the centre of a fillet of beef.

Chaud-froid. Literally, hot cold. In cookery a jellied sauce.

Chou-fleur. Cauliflower.

Chutney. An East India sweet pickle.

Civet. A game stew.

Compotes. Fruits stewed in syrup and kept in original shape.

Consommé de volaille. Chicken soup.

Côtelettes. Cutlets.

Court bouillon. A highly seasoned liquor in which to cook fish.

Créole (à la). With tomatoes.

Croûte au pot. A brown soup poured over small pieces of toast.

Curry powder. A yellow powder of which the principal ingredient is turmeric. Used largely in India.

De, d’. Of.

Devilled. Highly seasoned.

Dinde farcie. Stuffed turkey.

606 Dinde sauce céleri. Turkey with celery sauce.

Écossaise (à l’). In Scottish style.

En bellevue. In Aspic jelly. Applied to meats.

En coquilles. In shells.

En papillotes. In papers.

Eperlans frits. Fried smelts.

Espagnole sauce. A rich brown sauce.

Farci-e. Stuffed.

Fillet de bœuf piqué. Larded fillet of beef.

Flammande (à la). In Holland style.

Foie de veau grillé. Broiled liver.

Fondue. A dish prepared of cheese and eggs.

Fraises. Strawberries.

Frappé. Semi-frozen.

Fricassée de poulet. Fricassee of chicken.

Fromage. Cheese.

Gateau. Cake.

Gelée. Jelly.

Génevoise (à la). In Swiss style.

Glacé. Iced or glossed over.

Grilled. Broiled.

Hachis de bœuf. Beef hash.

Hoe cakes. Cakes made of white corn meal, salt, and boiling water, cooked on a griddle.

Homard. Lobster.

Hors-d’œuvres. Side dishes.

Huîtres en coquille. Oysters in shell.

Huîtres frites. Fried oysters.

Italienne (à l’). In Italian style.

Jambon froid. Cold ham.

Jardinière. Mixed vegetables.

Kirschwasser. Liqueur made from cherry juice.

Kuchen. German for cake.

Kümmel. Liqueur flavored with cumin and caraway seed.

Lait. Milk.

Laitue. Lettuce.

Langue de bœuf à l’écarlate. Pickled tongue.

Macaroni au fromage. Macaroni with cheese.

Macédoine. A mixture of several kinds of vegetables.

Maigre. A vegetable soup without stock.

Maître d’hôtel. Head steward.

Mango. A fruit of the West Indies, Florida, and Mexico.

Mango pickles. Stuffed and pickled young melons and cucumbers.

Maraschino. A cordial.

Marrons. Chestnuts.

Menu. A bill of fare.

Moru. Salt cod.

Noël. Christmas.

Noir. Black.

Nouilles. Noodles.

Noyau. A cordial.

Œufs farcis. Stuffed eggs.

Œufs pochés. Poached eggs.

Omelette aux fines herbes. Omelet with fine herbs.

Omelette aux champignons. Omelet with mushrooms.

Pain. Bread.

Panade. Bread and milk cooked to a paste.

Paté de biftecks. Beefsteak pie.

Paté de foie gras. A paste made of fatted geese livers.

Pigeonneaux. Squabs.

Pois. Peas.

Pommes. Apples.

Pommes de terre. Potatoes.

Pommes de terre à la Lyonnaise. Lyonnaise potatoes.

Pone cakes. A cake made in the South, baked in the oven.

Potage. Soup.

Poulets sautés. Fried chicken.

Queues de bœuf. Ox-tails.

Ragoût. A highly seasoned meat dish.

Réchauffés. Warmed over dishes.

Removes. The roasts or principal dishes.

Ris de veau. Sweetbreads.

Salade de laitue. Lettuce salad.

Salade de légumes. Vegetable salad.

Salpicon. Highly seasoned minced meat mixed with a thick sauce.

Selle de venaison. Saddle of venison.

Sippets. English for croûtons.

Soufflé. Literally, puffed up.

Soup à l’oignon. Onion soup.

Sucres. Sweets.

Tarte aux pommes. Apple pie.

Tourte. A tart.

Trout saumonée. Salmon trout.

607

## MISS FARMER’S
SCHOOL OF COOKERY

Huntington Chambers
30 Huntington Avenue, Boston, Mass.
Telephone 1373–2 Back Bay
ANNOUNCEMENT OF COURSES

The aim of this School is to afford such instruction as will elevate cookery to its proper place as a science and an art. The courses are so arranged, combining the practical and the theoretical, that the knowledge gained may be applied to daily living. The needs of the body are not forgotten. The classification, composition, and nutritive value of foods are considered. The correct proportion of each of the food-principles necessary for a day’s ration, for those of different age, sex, and occupation, is emphasized, thus enabling the pupil to arrange well-balanced dietaries. Attention is paid to the selection of supplies with reference to economy and utility, thus tending to develop an interest in marketing and accounts.

### CLASS LESSONS IN COOKERY

### FIRST COURSE

One lesson weekly, for ten consecutive weeks, from 9 A. M. to 12.30 P. M. Eight pupils constitute a class. Terms: $12.00, payable on fourth lesson. Class served at close of 608lesson to food prepared. Previous to each lesson a talk will be given on food-principles, food-products and their dietetic value, illustrated by charts and blackboard drawings.

- First Lesson
- How to Use a Gas Range
- Breakfast Cereal
- Baked Apples
- Creamed Chicken
- Boiled Potatoes
- Potato Border
- Dry Toast
- Milk Toast
- Boiled Coffee
- Second Lesson
- Making and Care of Fire
- How to Use a Coal Range
- Corn Soup with Popped Corn
- Corned Beef Hash
- Boiled Eggs
- Dropped Eggs
- Pineapple Pudding
- Custard Sauce
- Filtered Coffee
- Third Lesson
- Mixing and Baking Water Bread
- Tomato Soup without Stock
- Crisp Crackers
- Boiled Fish
- Egg Sauce
- Steamed Potatoes
- Baked Custard
- Caramel Custard
- Caramel Sauce
- Chocolate
- Fourth Lesson
- Mixing and Baking Milk and Water Bread
- Celery Soup
- Pan-Broiled Lamb Chops
- Potatoes au Gratin
- Turkish Pilaf
- Newton Tapioca Pudding
- Apples in Bloom
- Peanut Cookies
- Fifth Lesson
- Mixing and Baking Entire Wheat Bread
- Appledore Soup
- Croûtons
- Hamburg Steak
- Maître d’Hôtel Potatoes
- Baked Macaroni
- Scalloped Oysters
- St. James Pudding
- Hard Sauce
- Sixth Lesson
- Fish Chowder
- Broiled Oysters
- Cole Slaw
- Breakfast Bacon
- Omelet
- Golden Corn Cake
- Norwegian Prune Pudding
- Ginger Snaps
- Seventh Lesson
- Mixing and Baking Graham Bread
- Making and Clearing Brown Soup Stock
- Roast Beef
- Yorkshire Pudding
- Franconia Potatoes
- Spinach
- Cheese Salad
- Frozen Chocolate
- Whipped Cream
- Eighth Lesson
- Vegetable Soup
- Boston Brown Bread
- Fish Balls
- Fried Fish
- 609Shredded Potatoes
- Tomato and Horseradish Salad
- Custard Soufflé
- Creamy Sauce
- Gingerbread
- Ninth Lesson
- Scotch Broth
- Broiled Scrod
- Potato Balls
- Egg Salad
- Boiled Dressing
- Graham Muffins
- Cheese Straws
- Lemon Tartlets
- Apple Puffs
- Tenth Lesson
- Chicken Fricassee
- Rice Croquettes
- Mashed Sweet Potatoes
- Baking-Powder Biscuit
- Apple Fritters
- Orange Ice
- Lily Cake
- White Mountain Cream
- SECOND COURSE
- Terms: $15.00
- First Lesson
- Sliced Oranges
- Cereal with Dates
- Scrambled Eggs (country style)
- Pan-Broiled Ham
- Creamed Codfish with Cheese
- Baked Potatoes
- Pop-overs
- Entire Wheat Griddle Cakes with Maple Syrup
- Boiled Coffee
- Second Lesson
- Oyster Soup
- Fricassee of Lamb
- French Fried Potatoes
- Corn à la Southern
- Parker House Rolls
- Potato Salad
- Apricot Shortcake
- Cold Cabinet Pudding
- Third Lesson
- St. Germain Soup
- Bread Sticks
- Baked Fish with Hollandaise Sauce
- Lattice Potatoes
- Cabbage and Celery Salad
- Cream Dressing
- Steamed Fig Pudding
- Yellow Sauce
- Fourth Lesson
- Mock Bisque Soup
- Broiled Porterhouse Steak with Bearnaise Sauce
- Lyonnaise Potatoes
- Quaker Biscuit
- Oysters and Macaroni
- Vanilla Ice Cream
- Chocolate Sauce
- Rolled Wafers
- Fifth Lesson
- 610Roast Chicken
- Potatoes Baked in Half Shells
- Creamed Cauliflower
- Cranberry Sauce
- Fish Croquettes
- Charlotte Russe
- Lady Fingers
- Café Noir
- Sixth Lesson
- White Soup
- Chicken Croquettes
- Creamed Peas
- Banana Fritters
- Lobster Salad
- Mayonnaise Dressing
- Croustades of Savory Oysters
- Macedoine Pudding
- Gossamer Gingerbread
- Seventh Lesson
- Bouillon
- Fried Smelts
- Sauce Tartare
- Luncheon Rolls
- Chicken Salad
- Milk Sherbet
- Walnut Cake
- Confectioners’ Frosting
- Chocolate
- Whipped Cream
- Eighth Lesson
- Stuffed Leg of Lamb
- Currant Jelly
- Sauce
- Anna Potatoes
- Lima Beans
- Cheese Soufflé
- Raised Hominy Muffins
- Tomato Jelly Salad
- Coffee Soufflé
- Salted Almonds
- Ninth Lesson
- Clam Soup
- Larded Fillet of Beef
- Mushroom Sauce
- Potatoes en Surprise
- Devilled Tomatoes
- Twin Mountain Muffins
- Squash Pie
- Orange Sticks
- Tenth Lesson
- Fried Scallops
- Maryland Chicken
- Glazed Sweet Potatoes
- Rice Timbales
- Corn Fritters
- Fruit Salad
- Macaroon Ice Cream
- Sponge Cake
- THIRD COURSE
- Terms: $18.00
- First Lesson
- Cream of Mushroom Soup
- Fried Oysters
- Philadelphia Relish
- Beef Tenderloins
- Sauce Figaro
- Creamed Brussels Sprouts
- Dinner Rolls
- Pomona Frappé
- Ginger Cream
- Second Lesson
- Royal Soup
- Smelts à la Menière
- Crown of Lamb
- Currant Mint Sauce
- Brabant Potatoes
- 611Swedish Rolls
- Cheese and Currant Salad
- Cup St. Jacques
- Third Lesson
- Tomato Bouillon with Oysters
- Moulded Salmon
- Cucumber Sauce
- Larded Grouse
- Bread Sauce
- Farina Cakes with Jelly
- Orange Mint Salad
- Flowering Ice Cream
- Sunshine Cake
- Fourth Lesson
- Cream of Scallop Soup
- Fillets of Chicken Halibut
- Horseradish Sauce
- Potato Nests
- Maryland Croquettes
- Wine Jelly
- Orange Delicious
- Coffee
- Fifth Lesson
- Puff Paste
- Oyster Patties
- Chicken and Mushroom Vol-au-Vent
- Cigarettes à la Prince Henry
- Zwieback
- Sorbet
- Sixth Lesson
- Consommé
- Harlequin Slices
- Baked Live Lobster
- Devilled Sauce
- Braised Ox Joints
- French Fried Onions
- French Rolls
- Salad Chiffonade
- Almond Tart
- Seventh Lesson
- Lobster Soup
- Bread Sticks
- Chicken à la Stanley
- Sweet Potatoes (Georgian style)
- Sweetbread Timbales
- Stuffed Tomato Salad
- Chocolate Soufflé
- Whipped Cream
- Eighth Lesson
- Oyster Cocktail
- Calf’s Liver Stuffed and Larded
- Cauliflower à la Huntington
- Lettuce and Cucumber Salad
- Cheese Balls
- Frozen Pudding
- Angel Cake
- Ninth Lesson
- Tapioca Wine Soup
- Venison Steak with Chestnuts
- Hashed Brown Potatoes
- Grape Fruit and Pepper Salad
- Cheese Croquettes
- Orange Pekoe Ice Cream
- Creole Kisses
- Tenth Lesson
- Asparagus Soup
- Planked Haddock
- Stuffed Clams
- Lamb Chops à la Marseilles
- Hongroise Potatoes
- Creamed Mushrooms
- Café Parfait
- Salted Pecans

612

### COURSE IN CHAFING-DISH COOKERY, SALADS AND DESSERTS

One lesson weekly for ten consecutive weeks, from 2 to 5 P. M. Terms: $15.00

- First Lesson
- Scrambled Eggs (Creole style)
- Chicken à la McDonald
- Lobster à la Newburg
- Tomato Ciboulettes
- Salad Rolls
- Quick Bavarian Cream
- Coffee
- Second Lesson
- Salt Codfish with Cream
- Mignon Fillets of Beef with Cherry Sauce
- Mushrooms à la Sabine
- Waldorf Salad
- Baking-Powder Biscuit
- Brown Bread and Cucumber Sandwiches
- Junket Ice Cream with Peaches
- Third Lesson
- Oysters à la Duxelle
- Salmi of Duck
- Macaroni à la Rarebit
- Devilled Almonds
- Rye Bread Sandwiches
- Sultana Roll
- Claret Sauce
- Fourth Lesson
- Fish à la Provençale
- Sautéd Chickens’ Livers
- English Monkey
- Sweetbread and Cucumber Salad
- Quick Rolls
- Meringues Panaché
- Fifth Lesson
- Finnan Haddie à la Delmonico
- Sautéd Sweetbreads
- Asparagus Tips
- Cheese Sandwiches
- Lettuce and Radish Salad
- Brioche
- Fudge
- Mazarine
- Sixth Lesson
- Shrimp Wiggle
- Breast of Grouse
- Sauté Chasseur
- Grilled Sweet Potatoes
- Welsh Rarebit
- Cheese and Olive Salad
- Date Bread
- Baked Alaska
- Seventh Lesson
- Lobster and Oyster Ragoût
- Shad Roe with Celery
- Curried Vegetables
- Dressed Lettuce
- Crackers and Cheese with Bar-le-Duc Currants
- Orange Trifle
- Eighth Lesson
- Union Grill
- Devilled Crabs
- Venison Steak
- Cumberland Sauce
- Monte Carlo Salad
- Club Sandwiches
- Salted Nuts
- Café Frappé
- Whipped Cream
- Ninth Lesson
- 613Lamb Chops
- Orange Mint Sauce
- Sautéd Bananas
- Croustades of Peas
- Lettuce and Cucumber Salad
- French Rusks
- Fig Cups
- Hollandaise Punch
- Tenth Lesson
- Spanish Omelet
- Kippered Herring
- Chickens’ Livers en Brochette
- Hot Potato Salad
- Entire Wheat Rolls
- Sultana Caramels
- Frozen Apricots

### WAITRESS’S COURSE

One lesson weekly for ten consecutive weeks, from 2 to 4.30 P. M. Eight pupils constitute a class. Terms: $12.00, payable on fourth lesson. Arranged to meet the needs of the young housekeeper as well as the waitress.

- First Lesson
- Care of Dining Room
  - Directions for Sweeping and Dusting
  - Arrangement of Furniture
  - Polishing Dining Table
  - Care of Hard Wood Floors
- Cutting of Bread
- Toast
- Butter Balls
- Boiled Coffee
- Second Lesson
- Pantry and Ice Box
  - Arrangement
  - Care of Dishes
  - Washing and Wiping
- Care of Sink, Dish Cloths, Dish Wipers, and Silver Towels
- Bread and Butter Sandwiches
- Rolled Bread
- Boiled and Dropped Eggs
- Breakfast Cocoa
- Third Lesson
- Laying Breakfast Table
  - Sideboard
  - Serving Table
- Care of Silver
- Lettuce Sandwiches
- Nut and Cheese Sandwiches
- Filtered Coffee
- Fourth Lesson
- Laying Breakfast Table
  - Sideboard
  - Serving Table
- Illustrate Serving of Breakfast
  - Clearing of Table
- Care of China and Glass
- Anchovy Sandwiches
- Brown Bread Sandwiches
- Russian Tea
- Iced Tea
- Fifth Lesson
- 614Laying Luncheon Table (without cloth)
  - Sideboard
  - Serving Table
- Care of Cutlery and Brass
- Noisette Sandwiches
- Russian Sandwiches
- Reception Cocoa
- Brandy Cocoa
- Sixth Lesson
- Laying Luncheon Table (with cloth)
  - Sideboard
  - Serving Table
- Illustrate Serving of Luncheon
  - Clearing of Table
- Care of Lamps
- Chicken Sandwiches
- Windsor Sandwiches
- Chocolate I, II
- Seventh Lesson
- Laying Dinner Table
  - Sideboard
  - Serving Table
- Care and Laundering of Table Linen
- French Dressing
- Dressed Lettuce
- Egg Salad I
- Hindoo Salad
- Lenten Salad
- Lemonade
- Fruit Punch
- Eighth Lesson
- Laying Dinner Table
  - Sideboard
  - Serving Table
- Illustrate Serving of Dinner
  - Clearing of Table
- Carving
- Cream Dressing
- Egg Salad II
- Nut and Celery Salad
- Russian Salad
- Stuffed Tomatoes I, II
- Café Noir
- Ninth Lesson
- Laying Table for Formal Dinner
  - Sideboard
  - Serving Table
- Illustrate Serving of Dinner
  - Clearing of Table
- Mayonnaise Dressing
- Stuffed Tomatoes III
- Malaga Salad
- Brazilian Salad
- Cucumber Cups with Lettuce
- Stuffed Peppers
- Sauterne Cup
- Claret Cup
- Tenth Lesson
- Laying Table for Reception
- Cream Mayonnaise Dressing
- Lobster and Celery Salad
- Chicken Salad
- Sweetbread Salad
- Moulded Salmon, Cucumber Sauce
- Serving Table Waters and Alcoholic Beverages

615

### COURSE IN SICK-ROOM COOKERY

Arranged for Nurses’ Training Classes. The specialty of the School. One lesson weekly for ten consecutive weeks, by appointment. Eight pupils constitute a class. Terms: $60.00, or $50.00 and travelling expenses if given at hospital.

- First Lesson
- Chemical Composition of Body
- Food, Illustrate and Define
  - Why Necessary
- Cookery, Define
  - Why Necessary
- Water Supply
- Sandwiches
- Cold Beverages
- Second Lesson
- Foods, Classification
  - Relation each Class Bears to the Body
- Milk Supply
- Dry Toast
- Buttered Toast
- Hot Beverages
- Third Lesson
- Food, Correct Proportions for Well-balanced Dietaries
- Starch, Composition
  - Sources
  - Food Value
  - How Affected by Cooking
- Cereals
- Fruits
- Fourth Lesson
- Starch (continued)
- Combustion
  - How to use a Gas Range
  - Making and Care of Fire
- Milk Toast
- Cream Soups
- Vegetables
- Fifth Lesson
- Proteids
  - Composition
  - Sources
  - Food Value
  - How Affected by Cooking
- Eggs
- Egg Desserts
- Wafers
- Sixth Lesson
- Fermentation
- Bread Making and Baking
- Proteids (continued)
- Beef Extracts
  - Teas
  - Balls
- Broths
- Stews
- Seventh Lesson
- Fish Classification
  - Food Value
  - Digestibility
- Broiled and Boiled Fish
- Oysters
- Clams
- Potatoes
- Eighth Lesson
- Gelatin
  - Sources
  - Food Value
  - How Affected by Cooking
- Beefsteak
- Lamb Chops
- Macaroni
- Jellies
- Ninth Lesson
- 616Fats and Oils
- Chemistry of Freezing
- Boning Birds
- Salads
- Sherbets
- Sponge Cake
- Tenth Lesson
- Alcohol
  - Uses
  - Food Value
- Chicken
- Sweetbreads
- Ice Creams
- Lady Fingers

### MARKETING COURSE

One lesson weekly, for four consecutive weeks, from 2 to 4.30 P. M. Four constitute a class. Terms: $5.00. Instruction given by charts, cuts, and visits to market.

### SPECIAL LESSONS

Given by appointment. Terms: $2.00. Materials extra.

### DEMONSTRATION LECTURES

Wednesdays, at 10 A. M. and 7.45 P. M.

Tickets for Morning Course, ten lectures, with reserved seat | $4.00
Single admission | .50
Tickets for Evening Course, ten lectures with reserved seat | 3.00
Single admission | .25

617

## INDEX

- Acid, Acetic, 12.
  - Butyric, 8.
  - Citric, 13.
  - Malic, 12.
  - Oleic, 8.
  - Oxalic, 13.
  - Palmitic, 8.
  - Pectic, 7.
  - Pectose, 7.
  - Stearic, 8.
  - Tannic, 13.
  - Tartaric, 12.
- Acidulated Water, 587.
- Aerated Bread, 53.
- After-Dinner Coffee, Black, or Café Noir, 38.
- Air, 17.
- Albumen, 2, 191.
- Algonquin Canapés, 555.
- Allemande Sauce, 266.
- Allspice, 14.
- Almond Cakes, 511.
  - Cookies, 490.
  - Macaroons, 533.
  - Omelet, 108.
  - Soup, 125.
  - Tart, 504.
  - Tartlets, 478.
- Almonds, Devilled, 565.
  - how to Blanch, 587.
  - how to Shred, 587.
  - Mock, 146.
  - Salted, I, 535.
  - Salted, II, 536.
- Amber Pudding, 422.
- Anchovies, 27.
- Anchovy Butter, 273.
  - Canapés, 554.
  - Sandwiches, 550.
  - Sauce, 274.
- Angel Cake, 503.
  - Food, 450.
  - Parfait, 451.
- Apple Fritters I, 349.
  - Fritters II, 349.
  - Fritters III, 349.
  - Ginger, 570.
  - Jelly, 573.
  - Meringue, 413.
  - Pie I, 467.
  - Pie II, 467.
  - Porcupine, 570.
  - Pudding, Steamed, 398.
  - Sauce, 570.
- Apple Sauce, Spiced, 570.
  - Snow, 413.
  - Tapioca, 391.
- Apples, Baked, 569.
  - Baked, Sweet, 569.
  - in Bloom, 416.
  - Porter, Canned, 578.
  - Scalloped, 392.
- Appledore Soup, 138.
- Apricot and Wine Jelly, 421.
  - Sorbet, 438.
  - Soufflé, 396.
- Apricots, Frozen, 440.
- Arrowroot, 6.
  - Bermuda, 6.
- Artichoke Bottoms, 284.
  - Soup, Cream of, 136.
- Artichokes, 283.
  - Boiled, 283.
  - Fried, 283.
  - Stuffed, 284.
- Asparagus, 284.
  - à la Hollandaise, 285.
  - Boiled, 284.
  - in Crusts, 285.
  - in White Sauce, 284.
  - on Toast, 284.
  - Salad, 329.
  - Soup, 123.
- Aspic, Birds in, 383.
  - Individual Chicken Salads in, 345.
  - Jelly, 382.
  - Stuffed Olives in, 383.
  - Stuffing for Chicken in, 384.
  - Tomatoes in, 382.
  - Tongue in, 383.
- Aurora Sauce, 169.
- Baba Cakes, 388.
  - with Apricots, 389.
- Bacon I, 208.
  - II, 208.
  - and Liver, 207.
  - Breakfast, 236.
  - Chicken Livers with, 253.
  - Oysters with, 184.
  - Sweetbreads and, 234.
- Baked Alaska, 448.
  - Apples, 569.
  - Apples, Sweet, 569.
  - Bananas I, 571.
  - Bananas II, 571.
- 618Baked Peaches, 571.
  - Pears, 571.
  - Potatoes, 310.
  - Potatoes in Half Shell, 312.
  - Potatoes, Sweet, 317.
  - Quinces, 571.
- Baking, 20.
- Baking Powder, 52.
  - Biscuit I, 70.
  - Biscuit II, 71.
- Banana Cake, 516.
  - Cantaloupe, 427.
  - Croquettes, 354.
  - Custard, 413.
  - Fritters I, 349.
  - Fritters II, 350.
  - Ice Cream, 447.
  - Salad, 338.
- Bananas, Baked, I, 571.
  - Baked, II, 571.
  - Sautéd, 571.
- Banbury Tarts, 475.
- Bangor Pudding, 394.
- Barbecued Ham, 237.
- Barberry Jelly, 574.
- Baskets, Cucumber, 328.
  - Fruit, 479.
  - Neapolitan, 416.
  - Orange, 429.
- Bass, Baked Fillets of, 169.
- Batter I, 348.
  - II, 348.
  - III, 348.
  - IV, 348.
  - V, 349.
  - Eggs in, 101.
- Batters and Fritters, 348.
- Bavarian Cream, Pineapple, 430.
  - Quick, 430.
  - Strawberry, 430.
- Bean Soup, Baked, 135.
  - Black, 135.
  - Cream of Lima, 136.
  - String, 126.
- Beans, 285.
  - Boston Baked, 238.
  - Fritter, 148.
  - Lima, Cream of, 285.
  - Shell, 285.
  - String, 285.
- Béarnaise Sauce, 98.
- Béchamel Sauce, 271.
  - Yellow, 271.
- Beef, 191–193.
  - à la Mode, 204.
  - and Rice Croquettes, 359.
  - Braised, 204.
  - Cannelon of, 201.
  - Châteaubriand of, 200.
  - Corned, 206.
  - Corned, Hash, 213.
  - Corned, Hash with Beets, 213.
  - Corned, How to Boil, 206.
  - Cottage Pie, 212.
  - Cutlets of Tenderloin with Chestnut Purée, 199.
- Beef, Divisions and Way of Cooking Side of, 193.
  - Dried with Cream, 213.
  - Fillet, Larded, 203.
  - Fillets, Broiled, 198.
  - Fillets, Cherry Sauce, 199.
  - Fillets of, à la Moelle, 199.
  - Fillets, with Stuffed Mushroom Caps, 200.
  - Fillet with Vegetables, 203.
  - Flank, Pressed, 205.
  - Hamburg Steaks, 200.
  - Meat Cakes, Broiled, 200.
  - Mignon Fillets of, Sautéd with Sauce Trianon, 199.
  - Other Parts of Creature used for Food, 194.
  - Porterhouse Steak with Bordelaise Sauce, 196.
  - Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce, 196.
  - Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce, 196.
  - Roast, 201.
  - Roast, Gravy, 202.
  - Roast, how to Carve, 202.
  - Roast, Mexican Sauce, 212.
  - Roast, Yorkshire Pudding, 202.
  - Stew with Dumplings, 205.
  - Ways of Warming over, 212.
- Beefsteak à la Chiron, 197.
  - à la Henriette, 197.
  - à la Mirabeau, 197.
  - à la Victor Hugo, 197.
  - Broiled, 195.
  - Pie, 212.
  - Planked, 198.
  - to Broil, 196.
  - with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 196.
  - with Oyster Blanket, 198.
- Beet Greens, Boiled, 294.
- Beets, Boiled, 286.
  - Corned Beef Hash with, 213.
  - Harvard, 286.
  - Pickled, 286.
  - Sour Sauce, 286.
  - Sugared, 286.
- Belgian Hare à la Maryland, 260.
  - Sour Cream Sauce, 260.
- Bercy Sauce, 172.
- Berkshire Muffins, 75.
  - Salad in Boxes, 345.
- Berry Muffins I, 72.
  - Muffins II, 72.
- Beverages, 32–41.
  - Fruit, 42–45.
  - Use of, 32.
- Birds in Aspic, 383.
  - on Canapés, 375.
  - to Bone, 24.
  - to Dress for Broiling, 244.
- Birthday Cake, 514.
- Biscuit, 70.
  - Baking Powder, I, 70.
  - Baking Powder, II, 71.
  - Emergency, 71.
  - 619Maryland, 77.
  - Pin Wheel, 71.
  - Rye, 56.
  - Squash, 67.
- Biscuit Tortoni in Boxes, 458.
- Bisque, Burnt Walnut, 446.
  - Clam and Tomato, 132.
  - Ice Cream, 446.
  - Lobster, 133.
  - Mock, 140.
  - Oyster, 133.
- Bisques, 110.
- Blackberry Jam, 575.
  - Jelly, 574.
  - Pie, 467.
- Blanc-Mange, Chocolate, 411.
  - Irish Moss, 411.
- Blueberry Pie, 468.
  - Pudding, Steamed, 399.
- Bluefish, 153.
  - à l’Italienne, 165.
  - Baked, 165.
  - Breslin, Baked, 165.
- Boiled Dinner, 206.
  - Dressing I, 324.
  - Dressing II, 325.
  - Frosting, 529.
- Bolivia Salad, 330.
- Bombe Glacée, 452.
- Bonbons, 545.
  - to Dip, 546.
- Boning, 24.
- Bordelaise Sauce, 196.
- Bortchock Consommé, 129.
  - Soup, 116.
- Boston Baked Beans, 238.
  - Brown Bread, 57.
  - Cookies, 489.
  - Favorite Cake, 508.
- Bouchées, 379.
- Bouillon, 109, 114.
  - Clam, 129.
  - Iced, 114.
  - Tomato, with Oysters, 114.
- Braising, 22.
- Brandied Peaches, 581.
- Brandy Sauce, 409.
- Brazilian Salad, 340.
- Bread, 46.
  - Aerated, 53.
  - and Butter Folds, 549.
  - and Butter Pudding, 393.
  - and Butter Pudding (Apple), 393.
  - Baking, Care of, after, 52.
  - Baking of, 51.
  - Boards, 590.
  - Boston Brown, 57.
  - Date, 57.
  - Dough, how to Shape, 50.
  - Entire Wheat, 55.
  - Entire Wheat and Flour, 55.
  - Fermented, 50.
  - for Garnishing, 69.
  - German Caraway, 55.
  - German Coffee, 62.
  - Graham, 56.
  - Graham, Steamed, 58.
  - Griddle-Cakes, 79.
  - Indian, 58.
  - Making of, 50.
  - Milk and Water, 54.
  - New England Brown, 58.
  - Omelet, 106.
  - Pudding, 392.
  - Pulled, 146.
  - Rolled, 549.
  - Rolled Oats, 56.
  - Rye, 57.
  - Salad Sticks, 60.
  - Sauce, 276.
  - Stale, Uses for, 69.
  - Sticks, 59.
  - Swedish, 63.
  - Swedish Tea Braid, 64.
  - Swedish Tea Ring, I, 64.
  - Swedish Tea Ring, II, 64.
  - Third, 56.
  - Unfermented, 52.
  - Water, 54.
- Breaded Tongue with Tomato Sauce, 563.
- Breakfast Cakes, 70.
  - Menus, 592–594.
  - Puffs, 77.
- Breast of Quail, Lucullus, 376.
- Brewis, 69.
- Bride’s Cake, 517.
- Brioche (Coffee Cakes), 62.
- Broiling, 19.
- Broom, Care of, 589.
- Broth, Scotch, 221.
- Brown Bread Ice Cream, 446.
  - Bread Milk Toast, 68.
  - Bread Sandwiches, 552.
  - Frosting, 529.
  - Sauce I, 267.
  - Sauce II (Espagnole), 268.
  - Sauce, Mushroom, I, 268.
  - Sauce, Mushroom, II, 268, 363, 374.
- Brownies, 495, 511.
- Brussels Sprouts, 286.
  - Sprouts in White Sauce, 287.
  - Sprouts, Scalloped, 287.
- Buckwheat Cakes, 79.
- Bunuelos, 362.
- Buns, 65.
  - Hot Cross, 65.
- Burns, Remedy for, 591.
- Burnt Almond Charlotte, 428.
  - Almond Ice Cream, 445.
  - Walnut Bisque Ice Cream, 446.
- Butter, 10.
  - Anchovy, 273.
  - Clarified, 499.
  - Cocoanut, 8.
  - Composition of, 10.
  - Cups, 538.
  - Drawn, Sauce, 267.
  - Green, 383.
  - Lemon, 181.
  - Lobster, 273.
  - Maître d’Hôtel, 273.
  - 620Rules for Washing, 461.
  - Scotch, 539.
  - Taffy, 539.
  - to Cream, 586.
- Butterine, 8, 11.
- Cabbage, 287.
  - Boiled, 287.
  - Cole-Slaw, 288.
  - Escalloped, 287.
  - German, 288.
  - Hot Slaw, 288.
- Cabinet Pudding, 424.
- Café au Lait, 38.
- Café Frappé, 439.
  - Noir, 38.
  - Parfait, 451.
- Caffeine, 35.
- Cake, 497–523.
  - Angel, 503.
  - Baking of, 499.
  - Banana, 516.
  - Birthday, 514.
  - Boston Favorite, 508.
  - Bride’s, 517.
  - Butter, to Mix, 498.
  - Chocolate, I, 506.
  - Chocolate, II, 506.
  - Chocolate Fruit, 512.
  - Chocolate Marshmallow, 506.
  - Chocolate Nougat, 506.
  - Chocolate Sponge, 511.
  - Chocolate Vienna, 512.
  - Citron, 509.
  - Coffee, Rich, 514.
  - Corn-starch, 516.
  - Cream, 509.
  - Cup, 510.
  - Currant, 509.
  - Devil’s Food, I, 511.
  - Devil’s Food, II, 512.
  - Election, 505.
  - Fig Éclair, 516.
  - Fillings and Frostings for, 524–532.
  - Frosting of, 500.
  - Fruit, Dark, 515.
  - Fruit, English, 521.
  - Fruit, Light, 517.
  - Golden, 517.
  - Golden Spice, 513.
  - Ice Cream, 517.
  - Imperial, 523.
  - Jelly Roll, 505.
  - Lady Fingers, 504.
  - Lily, 515.
  - Marshmallow, 516.
  - Mocha, 503.
  - Mocha, Walnut, 513.
  - Molasses Pound, 520.
  - Moonshine, 503.
  - Newport Pound, 520.
  - Nut, 515.
  - Nut, Spice, 514.
  - Nut, White, 517.
  - One Egg, 505.
  - Orange, 508.
  - Pans, to Prepare, 499.
  - Pans, Removing from, 500.
  - Pound, 520.
  - Prune Almond, 516.
  - Queen, 519.
  - Quick, 508.
  - Ribbon, 513.
  - Snow, 515.
  - Spanish, 510.
  - Sponge, 502.
  - Sponge, Cheap, 501.
  - Sponge, Cream, 501.
  - Sponge, Hot Water, 501.
  - Sunshine, 502.
  - Velvet, 509.
  - Walnut, 510.
  - Wedding, I, 522.
  - Wedding, II, 522.
- Cakes, Almond, 511.
  - Almond Tart, 504.
  - Baba, 388.
  - Baba, with Apricots, 389.
  - Breakfast, 70.
  - Brownies, 495, 511.
  - Card, 496.
  - Chocolate, 491.
  - Chocolate Dominoes, 507.
  - Christmas, 520.
  - Cinnamon, 510.
  - Cinnamon Bars, 534.
  - Cocoanut I, 535.
  - Cocoanut II, 535.
  - Cocoanut Tea, 477.
  - Coffee (Brioche), 62.
  - Cream, 518.
  - Cream, French, 519.
  - Cream, French Strawberry, 519.
  - Crescents, 534.
  - Dipping of, 531.
  - Drop, Fried, 81.
  - Éclairs, 519.
  - Ginger Pound, 520.
  - Glazing of, 531.
  - Griddle, 78.
  - Horseshoes, 534.
  - Lemon Queens, 519.
  - Macaroons, 533.
  - Macaroons, Almond, 533.
  - Macaroons, Nut, 495.
  - Marguerites I, 493.
  - Marguerites II, 493.
  - Mocha, 518.
  - Neuremburghs, 492.
  - Nut, 515.
  - Nut Bars, 495.
  - Petit Four, 502.
  - Royal Fans, 489.
  - Rum, 388.
  - Rye Drop, 81.
  - Sponge Drops, 504.
- Calf’s Brains, to Prepare. 557.
  - Brains with Scrambled Eggs, 557.
  - Brains Fritters, 354.
  - Head à la Terrapin, 210.
- 621Calf’s Heart, 211.
  - Liver, Stuffed and Larded, 208.
- Calvé Tarts, 479.
- Calves’ Tongues, 210.
  - Tongues, Sauce Piquante, 210.
- Canapés, 549.
  - Algonquin, 555.
  - Anchovy, 554.
  - Cheese, I, 553.
  - Cheese, II, 554.
  - Cheese and Olive, 555.
  - Fruit, 565.
  - Lobster, 554.
  - Lorenzo, 555.
  - Martha, 554.
  - Peach, 565.
  - Sardine, 554.
- Candied Orange Peel, 547.
- Cane Sugar or Sucrose, 6.
- Cannelon of Beef, 201.
- Canning and Preserving, 577.
  - Directions for, 577.
  - Jars, to Sterilize, 578.
- Cantaloupe, how to Serve, 569.
  - Banana, 427.
- Canton Sherbet, 437.
- Caper Sauce, 267.
- Capers, 14.
- Capon, 240.
  - Boiled, with Cauliflower Sauce, 246.
- Capsicum (Cayenne Pepper), 13.
- Carafes, how to Wash, 587.
- Caramel, 7.
  - Brandy Sauce, 410.
  - Charlotte Russe, 428.
  - Custard, 415.
  - Frosting I, 530.
  - Frosting II, 530.
  - Ice Cream, 445.
  - Junket, 412.
  - Nut Frosting, 530.
  - Opera Frosting, 530.
  - Sauce, 415.
  - to Make, 586.
- Caramels, Sultana, 543.
- Carbohydrates, 2.
- Carbon Dioxide, 6.
- Card Cakes, 496.
- Cardinal Mousse with Iced Madeira
  - Sauce, 456.
  - Punch, 440.
- Carpets, Sweeping of, 589, 591.
- Carrots, 288.
  - and Peas, 288.
  - Poulette Sauce, 288.
- Casein, 2.
  - Vegetable, 2.
- Casserole of Chestnuts, 376.
  - of Lamb, 220.
  - of Rice and Meat, 224.
- Cassia, 13.
- Cauliflower, 289.
  - à la Hollandaise, 289.
  - à la Huntington, 289.
  - à la Parmesan, 289.
  - au Gratin, 289.
- Cauliflower, Creamed, 289.
  - Fritters, 350.
  - Sauce, 276.
  - Soup, Cream of, 125.
- Caviare, 155.
  - Cayenne, 13.
- Cecils with Tomato Sauce, 213.
- Ceiling, Smoked, how to Clean, 591.
- Celery, 290.
  - and Cabbage Salad, 329.
  - Dressed, 329.
  - Fried, 350.
  - Fried, with Tomato Sauce, 290.
  - in White Sauce, 590.
  - Sauce, 272.
  - Soup I, 136.
  - Soup II, 137.
  - Soup, Cream of, 123.
- Cellulose, 7.
- Cereal with Fruit, 87.
- Cerealine Pudding, 390.
- Cereals, 85.
- Composition of, 85.
- Table for Cooking, 86.
- Chafing-Dish, 556.
  - Breaded Tongue with Tomato Sauce, 563.
  - Cheese Omelet, 558.
  - Clams à la Newburg, 560.
  - Creamed Sardines, 561.
  - Devilled Almonds, 565.
  - Devilled Bones, 565.
  - Devilled Chestnuts, 565.
  - Eggs à la Caracas, 558.
  - Eggs au Beurre Noir, 558.
  - English Monkey, 563.
  - Fig Cups, 566.
  - Fish à la Provençale, 561.
  - Fruit Canapés, 565.
  - Grilled Sardines, 561.
  - Jack’s Oyster Ragout, 559.
  - List of Dishes for, 557.
  - Lobster à la Delmonico, 560.
  - Lobster à la Newburg, 560.
  - Minced Mutton, 564.
  - Mutton with Currant Jelly
  - Sauce, 564.
  - Oyster Rarebit, 562.
  - Oysters à la D’Uxelles, 559.
  - Oysters à la Thorndike, 559.
  - Peach Canapés, 565.
  - Sardines with Anchovy Sauce, 561.
  - Scotch Woodcock, 563.
  - Scrambled Eggs with Calf’s Brains, 557.
  - Scrambled Eggs with Sweetbreads, 557.
  - Shredded Ham with Currant Jelly Sauce, 564.
  - Shrimps à la Newburg, 560.
  - Tomato Rarebit, 563.
  - Union Grill, 558.
  - Venison Cutlets with Apples, 564.
  - Welsh Rarebit I, 562.
  - Welsh Rarebit II, 562.
- 622Chambery Potatoes, 311.
- Champagne Punch, 44.
  - Sauce 269.
- Charlotte, Burnt Almond, 428.
  - Chocolate, 428.
  - Glacé (Frozen), 459.
  - Orange, 429.
  - Russe, 427.
  - Russe, Caramel, 428.
- Chaud-froid of Chicken, 385.
  - of Eggs, 386.
- Cheese, 11.
  - and Anchovy Sandwiches, 551.
  - and Currant Salad, 337.
  - and Olive Canapés, 555.
  - and Olive Salad, 337.
  - Balls, 377.
  - Cakes, 475.
  - Canapés I, 553.
  - Canapés II, 554.
  - Composition of, 11.
  - Croquettes, 355.
  - Fondue, 377.
  - Gnocchi à la Romaine, 352.
  - Milk, 11.
  - Milk and Cream, 12.
  - Omelet, 558.
  - Salad, 337.
  - Soufflé, 377.
  - Soufflé with Pastry, 381.
  - Sticks, 145.
  - Straws, 475.
  - Various Kinds of, 11.
  - Wafers, 553.
- Cherries, Canned, 579.
- Cherry Fritters, Maraschino Sauce, 351.
- Chestnut Croquettes, 355.
  - Gravy, 255.
  - Purée of, 126, 292.
  - Roulettes, 355.
  - Soufflé, 398.
- Chestnuts, 292.
  - Baked, 292.
  - Devilled, 565.
  - en Casserole, 376.
  - how to Shell, 587.
- Chiccory or Endive, 290.
- Chicken à la McDonald, 374.
  - à la Merango, 250.
  - à la Providence, 246.
  - à la Stanley, 246.
  - and Mushroom Croquettes, 360.
  - and Oyster Salad, 346.
  - and Oysters à la Métropole, 261.
  - Baked, 250.
  - Blanketed, 249.
  - Blanquette of, 262.
  - Braised, 248.
  - Breslin Potted, 252.
  - Broiled, 245.
  - Chartreuse, 263.
  - Chaud-froid of, 386.
  - Creamed, 261.
  - Creamed, with Mushrooms, 261.
  - Creamed with Potato Border, 261.
  - Croquettes I, 360.
  - Croquettes II, 360.
  - Curry, 252.
  - Cutlets, 373.
  - Cutlets of, 372.
  - en Casserole, 252.
  - Fillet, to, 245.
  - Fillet, Large, 245.
  - Fillet, Mignon, 245.
  - Fillets of, Sauce Suprême, 374.
  - Force meat I, 149.
  - Force meat II, 150, 375.
  - Fricassee, 248.
  - Fried, 249.
  - Fried, Southern Style, 249.
  - Gravy, 248.
  - Gumbo, 251.
  - Hollandaise, 263.
  - in Baskets, 261.
  - Jellied, 253.
  - Lenox, 387.
  - Livers en Brochette, 376.
  - Sautéd, 253.
  - with Bacon, 253.
  - with Curry, 254.
  - with Madeira Sauce, 253.
  - Luncheon, 261.
  - Maryland, 249.
  - Moulded, Sauterne Jelly, 387.
  - Mousse, 374.
  - Pie, 251.
  - Planked, 250.
  - Roast, 247.
  - Salad Dressing, 325.
  - Salad I, 344.
  - Salad II, 344.
  - Salad, Individual, in Aspic, 345.
  - Sandwiches, 550.
  - Scalloped, 262.
  - Soufflé, 262.
  - Soup, 120.
  - Soup with Wine, 118.
  - Stew, 251.
  - Stewed with Onions, 246.
  - Stuffing I, 247.
  - Stuffing II, 247.
  - Suprême of, 367.
  - Timbales I, 365.
  - Timbales II, 366.
  - Timbales III, 366.
- Chiffonade Salad, 333.
- Chili Con Carni, 246.
- Chili Sauce, 583.
- Chocolate, 39.
- Chocolate I, 41.
  - II, 41.
  - III, 41.
  - Blanc-Mange, 411.
  - Bread Pudding, 393.
  - Cake I, 506.
  - Cake II, 506.
  - 623Cakes, 491.
  - Caramels, 539.
  - Caramels, Nut, 540.
  - Caramels, Rich, 540.
  - Charlotte, 428.
  - Cookies, 491.
  - Cream, 412.
  - Cream Candy, 542.
  - Cream Filling, 524.
  - Dominoes, 507.
  - Filling, 525.
  - Fritters with Vanilla Sauce, 353.
  - Frosting I, 527.
  - Frosting II, 528.
  - Frosting, Boiled, 529.
  - Frozen, with Whipped Cream, 437.
  - Fruit Cake, 512.
  - Fudge Frosting, 531.
  - Ice Cream I, 444.
  - Ice Cream II, 444.
  - Marshmallow Cake, 506.
  - Mousse, 455.
  - Nougat Cake, 506.
  - Pie, 508.
  - Pudding, 395.
  - Pudding, Steamed, 400.
  - Rice Meringue, 398.
  - Sauce, 408, 418, 443.
  - Soufflé, 397.
  - Sponge Cake, 511.
  - Vienna Cake, 512.
- Chondrin, 191.
- Chopped Paste, 464.
  - Pickles, 584.
- Chops, Lamb, à la Castillane, 216.
  - à la Marseilles, 216.
  - à la Signora, 216.
  - en Papillote, 217.
  - French, 215.
  - Kidney, 214.
  - Mutton, Breaded, 216.
  - Mutton, Broiled, 215.
  - Pan-broiled, 215.
  - Pan-broiled, à la Lucullus, 376.
  - Rib, 214.
  - Pork, with Apples, 236.
  - Veal, Bavarian, 227.
- Chow-Chow, 585.
- Chowder, Clam, 143.
  - Connecticut, 142.
  - Corn, 141.
  - Fish, 142.
  - German, 144.
  - Lobster, 144.
  - Rhode Island, 143.
- Chowders, 141–144.
- Christmas Cakes, 520.
  - Dinner, Menu for, 600.
- Cider Jelly, 419.
- Cigarettes à la Prince Henry, 380.
- Cinnamon, 13.
  - Bars, 534.
  - Cakes, 510.
- Citron Cake, 506.
- Clam and Chicken Frappé, 132.
- Clam and Oyster Soup, 131.
  - and Tomato Bisque, 132.
  - Bouillon, 129.
  - Chowder, 143.
  - Force-meat, 149.
  - Frappé, 439.
  - Soup, Cream of, 132.
  - Soup with Poached Eggs, 131.
- Clams, 156.
  - à la Grand Union, 186.
  - à la Newburg, 560.
  - Fricassee of, 164.
  - Fritters, 354.
  - Little Neck, 185.
  - Roasted, 185.
  - Steamed, 185.
  - Stuffed, 370.
  - Union League, 185.
- Claret Consommé, 129.
  - Cup, 45.
  - Punch, 42.
  - Wine, to Remove Stains of, 588.
- Clove, 13.
- Club French Dressing, 324.
  - Sandwiches, 552.
- Cocktail, Fruit, 569.
  - Lobster, 186.
  - Oyster, I, 180.
  - Oyster, II, 180.
  - Oyster, III, 180.
- Cocoa, 39.
  - Brandy, 41.
  - Breakfast, 40.
  - Cracked, 40.
  - Reception, 41.
  - Shells, 40.
- Cocoanut Butter, 8.
  - Cakes I, 535.
  - Cakes II, 535.
  - Cream Candy, 542.
  - Cream Cookies, 489.
  - Filling, 525.
  - Naples, Sauterne Sauce, 456.
  - Pie, 507.
  - Tea Cakes, 477.
- Cod, 152.
  - Baked, with Oyster Stuffing, 165.
  - Liver Oil, 152.
  - Scalloped, 177.
  - Steaks, Fried, 173.
- Codfish, Salt, Creamed, 178.
  - Hash, 178.
- Coffee, 35.
  - After-dinner, 38.
  - Boiled, 37.
  - Buying of, 36.
  - Cake, Rich, 514.
  - Cakes (Brioche), 62.
  - Cream Filling, 524.
  - Custard, 415.
  - Filtered, 37.
  - Fondant, 545.
  - for One, 38.
  - Fritters, Coffee Cream Sauce, 353.
  - 624Ice Cream, 445.
  - Ice Cream, in half of Cantaloupe, 445.
  - Jelly, 419.
  - Mousse, 454.
  - Pot of, Small, 38.
  - Rolls, 63.
  - Sauce, 443.
  - Soufflé, 434.
  - Vienna, 38.
- Colbert Consommé, 128.
- Collagen, 191.
- Colonial Sandwiches, 552.
- Columbian Pudding, 424.
- Compote of Rice with Peaches, 377.
  - of Rice with Pears, 378.
- Concord Cream, 458.
- Condés, 476.
- Condiments, 14.
- Confections and Frostings, 527.
  - Bonbons, 545.
  - Bonbons, to Dip, 546.
  - Buttercups, 538.
  - Butter Scotch, 539.
  - Butter Taffy, 539.
  - Chocolate Caramels, 539.
  - Chocolate Caramels, Nut, 540.
  - Chocolate Caramels, Rich, 540.
  - Chocolate Cream Candy, 542.
  - Cocoanut Cream Candy, 542.
  - Cream Mints, 546.
  - Cream Nut Bars, 546.
  - Creamed Walnuts, 543.
  - Dipped Walnuts, 546.
  - Fondant, 544.
  - Fondant, Coffee, 545.
  - Fondant, Maple, 545.
  - Fondant, White, 544.
  - French Nougat, 541.
  - Glacé Fruits, 547.
  - Glacé Nuts, 547.
  - Horehound Candy, 539.
  - Ice Cream Candy, 538.
  - Molasses Candy, 537.
  - Molasses Velvet Candy, 537.
  - Nougatine Drops, 541.
  - Nut Bar, 540.
  - Parisian Sweets, 536.
  - Peanut Nougat, 540.
  - Peppermints, 544.
  - Spun Sugar, 547.
  - Sugared Popped Corn, 537.
  - Sultana Caramels, 543.
  - Tutti-Frutti Candy, 546.
  - Vinegar Candy, 538.
  - Wintergreen Wafers, 541.
- Consommé, 109, 128.
  - à la Royal, 128.
  - au Parmesan, 128.
  - aux Pâtes, 129.
  - Bortchock, 129.
  - Clam, 132.
  - Claret, 129.
  - Colbert, 128.
  - d’Orleans, 129.
  - Princess, 129.
  - with Vegetables, 129.
- Cookery, 15.
- Cookies, Almond, 490.
  - Boston, 489.
  - Chocolate, 491.
  - Chocolate Fruit, 491.
  - Cocoanut Cream, 489.
  - Cream, 487.
  - German Chocolate, 491.
  - Ginger Snaps, 485.
  - Hermits, 488.
  - Imperial, 488.
  - Jelly Jumbles, 488.
  - Molasses, 485.
  - Molasses, Soft, 486.
  - Nut, 490.
  - Oatmeal, 487.
  - Peanut, 490.
  - Rich, 488.
  - Sand Tarts, 492.
  - Seed Cakes, 490.
  - Spice, 486.
  - Walnut Molasses Bars, 485.
- Copper Boiler, to Clean, 590.
- Corn à la Southern, 291.
  - Cake, Golden, 75.
  - Cake, Rice, 76.
  - Cake, Spider, 76.
  - Cake, Sweetened with Molasses, 75.
  - Cake, White, 175.
  - Cake, White, Meal, 76.
  - Chowder, 141.
  - Fritters, 291.
  - Green, 291.
  - Green, Boiled, 291.
  - Griddle-Cakes, 78.
  - Meal Gems, 74.
  - Meal Mush, 88.
  - Oysters, 291.
  - Pudding, 392.
  - Soup, 137.
  - Starch, 6.
  - Starch Cake, 516.
  - Succotash, 291.
- Corned Beef Hash, 213.
  - Beef Hash with Beets, 213.
- Cottage Cheese I, 336.
  - Cheese II, 337.
  - Pudding, 395.
- Coupe à l’Ananas, 442.
  - au Marrons, 456.
  - Sicilienne, 442.
- Covington Cream, 450.
- Crab and Tomato Salad, 343.
  - Apple Jelly, 573.
  - Meat, Indienne, 368.
  - Meat, Terrapin Style, 370.
  - Soup, 126.
- Crabs, 158.
  - Devilled, 368.
  - Mock, 371.
  - Soft-shelled, 174.
  - to Clean, 174.
- Cracker and Cheese Salad, 336.
- Cracker Crumbs (Buttered), 586.
  - Custard Pudding, 393.
- Crackers and Cheese, 145.
- 625Crackers, Crisp, 145.
  - Souffléd, 145.
- Cranberry Frappé, 439.
  - Jelly, 572.
  - Pie, 468.
  - Pudding, Steamed, 399.
  - Sauce, 572.
- Cranberries, Frozen, 440.
- Cream, Bavarian (Quick), 420.
  - Cake, 509.
  - Cakes, 518.
  - Cakes, French, 519.
  - Cakes, French Strawberry, 519.
  - Cookies, 487.
  - Dressing I, 324.
  - Dressing II, 324.
  - Filling, 524.
  - French Easter, 432.
  - Fruit, 431.
  - Ginger, 429.
  - Heavy, 425.
  - Horns, 476.
  - Ivory, 431.
  - Mints, 546.
  - Nut Bars, 546.
  - of Tartar, 53.
  - Pie, 468.
  - Pineapple, 440.
  - Pineapple Bavarian, 430.
  - Sauce, 266.
  - Sauce I, 407.
  - Sauce II, 407.
  - Scones, 70.
  - Spanish, 423.
  - Strawberry Bavarian, 430.
  - Tapioca, 415.
  - Toast, 68.
  - to Whip, 425.
  - Whips, 418.
- Creamed Walnuts, 543.
- Creamy Sauce I, 408.
  - Sauce II, 408.
- Crême aux Fruits, 425.
- Crême de Menthe Ice, 437.
- Creole Sauce, 278.
- Crescents, 534.
- Cromesquis à la Russe, 369.
- Croquettes, 354.
  - Banana, 354.
  - Beef and Rice, 359.
  - Cheese, 355.
  - Chestnut, 355.
  - Chicken I, 360.
  - Chicken II, 360.
  - Chicken and Mushroom, 360.
  - Egg, 104.
  - Fish, 177.
  - Lamb, 359.
  - Lenten, 355.
  - Lincoln, 361.
  - Lobster, 358.
  - Maryland, 360.
  - Oyster and Macaroni, 357.
  - Potato, 316.
  - Potato, French, 316.
  - Potato, Sweet, 318.
  - Rice and Tomato, 356.
  - Rice, Sweet, 356.
  - Rice, with Jelly, 356.
  - Salmon, 358.
  - Vanilla Ice Cream, 444.
  - Veal, 359.
- Croustades of Bread, 378.
  - of Rice, 378.
- Croûtons (Duchess Crusts), 145.
- Crullers, 83.
- Crustaceans, 156.
- Cucumber and Tomato Salad, 328.
  - Cups with Lettuce, 328.
  - Pickle, Ripe, 583.
  - Pickles, Unripe, 584.
  - Salad, 328.
- Cucumber Sauce I, 272.
  - Sauce II, 272, 387.
  - Soup, 125.
- Cucumbers, 292.
  - Boiled, 292.
  - Fried, 292.
  - Sliced, 292.
  - Stuffed, 293.
- Cumberland Sauce, 259.
- Cup Cake, 510.
  - St. Jacques, 435.
- Currant and Raspberry Jelly, 574.
  - and Raspberry Preserve, 581.
  - Cake, 509.
  - Ice, 436.
  - Jelly, 574.
  - Jelly Sauce, 276.
  - Mint Sauce, 219.
  - Pie, 468.
- Currants, Spiced, 582.
- Curried Eggs I, 101.
  - Eggs II, 101.
  - Potatoes, 321.
  - Vegetables, 307.
- Curry, Chicken, 252.
  - Dressing, 324.
  - India, 229.
  - Lobster, 187.
  - Mutton, 220.
- Curtain and Portière Poles, how to Slip Easily, 591.
- Custard, Baked, 414.
  - Banana, 413.
  - Boiled, 413.
  - Caramel, 415.
  - Chicken, 147.
  - Coffee, 415.
  - Egg, 146.
  - Egg, for Decorating, 384.
  - Orange, 413.
  - Peach, 413.
  - Pie, 469.
  - Royal, 147.
  - Soufflé, 396.
- Cutlets, Chicken, 373.
  - Lobster, 358.
  - of Chicken, 372.
  - of Sweetbreads à la Victoria, 361.
  - Russian, 373.
  - 626Salmon, 358.
  - Tenderloin, with Chestnut Purée, 199.
  - Veal, 226.
  - with Asparagus Tips, 234.
- Damson Jelly, 575.
  - Preserves, 580.
- Dandelions, 294.
- Date Bread, 57.
  - Pie, 469.
- Dates, Stuffed, I, 535.
  - Stuffed, II, 535.
- De John’s Salad, 340.
- Delmonico Ice Cream, with Angel Food, 450.
  - Potatoes, 319.
- Demi-glacé aux Fraises, 457.
- Desserts, Cold, 411–429.
- Devil’s Food Cake I, 511.
- Devil’s Food Cake II, 512.
- Devilled Almonds, 565.
  - Bones, 565.
  - Chestnuts, 565.
  - Crabs, 368.
  - Oysters, 368.
  - Scallops, 369.
- Dextrine, 5.
- Dextrose, 6.
- Dinner, Boiled, 206.
  - Menus, 597–603.
- Dipped Walnuts, 546.
- Disinfectants, 591.
- Doors and Drawers, to Prevent Creaking of, 591.
- Doughnuts I, 82.
  - II, 82.
  - III, 83.
  - Raised, 81.
- Doughs, 50.
- Dover Egg-beater, Care of, 590.
- Drawn Butter Sauce, 267.
- Dresden Patties, 380.
- Drop Cakes, Fried, 81.
  - Cakes, Rye, 81.
- Dropped Eggs (Poached), 95.
- Dry Toast, 67.
- Duchess Potatoes, 312.
  - Soup, 121.
- Duck, 241.
  - Braised, 257.
  - Peanut Stuffing for, 257.
  - Roasted, 257.
  - Salmi of, 264.
  - Varieties of, 241.
- Dumplings, 205.
- Dutch Apple Cake, 64.
- East India Salad, 337.
- Éclairs, 519.
- Eels, 152.
  - Fried, 174.
- Egg Balls I, 146.
  - Balls II, 146.
  - Croquettes, 104.
- Egg Custard, 146.
  - Custard for Decorating, 146, 384.
  - Farci I, 103.
  - Farci II, 103.
  - Salad I, 336.
  - Salad II, 336.
  - Sandwiches, 550.
  - Sauce I, 267.
  - Sauce II, 267.
  - Soufflé, 103.
  - Timbales, 104.
- Eggplant, Fried, I, 293.
  - Fried, II, 293.
  - Scalloped, 294.
  - Stuffed, 293.
- Eggs, 94.
  - à la Benedict, 97.
  - à la Buckingham, 99.
  - à la Caracas, 558.
  - à la Commodore, 97.
  - à la Finnoise, 96.
  - à la Goldenrod, 100.
  - à la Juliette, 104.
  - à la Lee, 97.
  - à la Livingston, 99.
  - à la Parisienne, 104.
  - à la Sidney, 102.
  - à la Suisse, 96.
  - à la Turk, 99.
  - au Beurre Noir, 558.
  - au Gratin, 100.
  - Baked or Shirred, 97.
  - Boiled, 95.
  - Buttered, 99.
  - Buttered, with Tomatoes, 100.
  - Chaud-froid of, 385.
  - Composition of, 95.
  - Curried, I, 101.
  - Curried, II, 101.
  - Dropped, 95.
  - Freshness of, how to Determine, 95.
  - Fried, 100.
  - Ham and, 237.
  - Huntington, 102.
  - in Batter, 101.
  - Keeping, Ways of, 95.
  - Lucanian, 103.
  - Mornay, 105.
  - Planked, 95.
  - Poached, à la Reine, 96.
  - Poached, à la Tripe, 97.
  - Poached, with Clam Soup, 131.
  - Poached, with Sauce Béarnaise, 98.
  - Scalloped, 101.
  - Scrambled, 98.
  - Scrambled, Country Style, 99.
  - Scrambled, with Anchovy
  - Toast, 99.
  - Scrambled, with Calf’s Brains, 557.
  - Scrambled, with Sweetbreads, 557.
  - Scrambled, with Tomato Sauce, 98.
  - 627Shirred, 97.
  - Stuffed, 102.
  - Stuffed, in a Nest, 102.
  - Susette, 96.
  - Waldorf Style, 98.
  - with Spinach à la Martin, 107.
- Election Cake, 505.
- Emergency Biscuit, 71.
- Endive, 290.
- English Fruit Cake, 521.
  - Meat Pie, 472.
  - Monkey, 563.
  - Plum Pudding I, 404.
  - Plum Pudding II, 404.
- Entire Wheat Paste, 465.
- Entrées, 348–389.
  - Apple Fritters I, 349.
  - Apple Fritters II, 349.
  - Apple Fritters III, 349.
  - Aspic Jelly, 382.
  - Baba Cakes, 388.
  - Baba Cakes with Apricots, 389.
  - Banana Croquettes, 354.
  - Banana Fritters I, 349.
  - Banana Fritters II, 350.
  - Beef and Rice Croquettes, 359.
  - Birds in Aspic, 383.
  - Birds on Canapés, 375.
  - Bouchées, 379.
  - Breast of Quail Lucullus, 376.
  - Bunuelos, 362.
  - Calf’s Brain Fritters, 354.
  - Cauliflower Fritters, 350.
  - Chaud-froid of Chicken, 385.
  - Chaud-froid of Eggs, 386.
  - Cheese Balls, 377.
  - Cheese Croquettes, 355.
  - Cheese Fondue, 377.
  - Cheese Soufflé, 377.
  - Cheese Soufflé with Pastry, 381.
  - Cherry Fritters, Maraschino Sauce, 351.
  - Chestnut Croquettes, 355.
  - Chestnut Roulettes, 355.
  - Chicken à la McDonald, 374.
  - Chicken and Mushroom Croquettes, 360.
  - Chicken Croquettes I, 360.
  - Chicken Croquettes II, 360.
  - Chicken Cutlets, 373.
  - Chicken in Aspic, 383.
  - Chicken, Lenox, 387.
  - Chicken Livers en Brochette, 376.
  - Chicken Mousse, 374.
  - Chicken Timbales I, 365.
  - Chicken Timbales II, 366.
  - Chicken Timbales III, 366.
  - Chocolate Fritters with Vanilla Sauce, 353.
  - Cigarettes à la Prince Henry, 380.
  - Clam Fritters, 354.
  - Coffee Fritters, Coffee Cream Sauce, 353,
  - Compote of Rice with Peaches, 377.
  - Compote of Rice with Pears, 378.
  - Crab Meat, Indienne, 368.
  - Crab Meat, Terrapin Style, 370.
  - Cromesquis à la Russe, 369.
  - Croustades of Bread, 378.
  - Cutlets of Chicken, 372.
  - Cutlets of Sweetbreads à la Victoria, 361.
  - Devilled Crabs, 368.
  - Devilled Oysters, 368.
  - Devilled Scallops, 369.
  - Egg Custard for Decorating, 384.
  - Epigrams of Sweetbread, 361.
  - Farina Cakes with Jelly, 352.
  - Fillets of Chicken, 374.
  - Fillets of Game, 373.
  - Flûtes, 388.
  - Fried Celery, 350.
  - Fruit Fritters, 350.
  - Gnocchi à la Romaine, 352.
  - Halibut Marguerites, 369.
  - Halibut Timbales I, 364.
  - Halibut Timbales II, 364.
  - Ham Timbales, 366.
  - Jellied Vegetables, 385.
  - Lamb Chops, Pan Broiled, à la
  - Lucullus, 376.
  - Lamb Croquettes, 359.
  - Lenten Croquettes, 355.
  - Lincoln Croquettes, 361.
  - Lobster Cream I, 365.
  - Lobster Cream II, 365.
  - Lobster Croquettes, 358.
  - Lobster Cutlets, 358.
  - Lobster Timbales I, 364.
  - Lobster Timbales II, 364.
  - Macaroni Timbales, 363.
  - Martin’s Specialty, 371.
  - Maryland Croquettes, 360.
  - Mayonnaise of Mackerel, 386.
  - Mock Crabs, 371.
  - Moulded Chicken, Sauterne Jelly, 387.
  - Moulded Salmon, Cucumber Sauce, 386.
  - Olives, Stuffed, in Aspic, 383.
  - Omelet Soufflé, 379.
  - Orange Fritters, 350.
  - Oyster and Macaroni Croquettes, 357.
  - Oyster Crabs à la Newburg, 357.
  - Oyster Crabs, Bouchées of, 369.
  - Oyster Crabs, Fried, 369.
  - Oysters à la Somerset, 357.
  - Patties, 379.
  - Patties, Dresden, 380.
  - Patties, Russian. 380.
  - Pimento Timbales, 363.
  - Quail Pies, 381.
  - Queen Fritters, 352.
  - 628Ramequins Soufflés, 377.
  - Rice and Tomato Croquettes, 356.
  - Rice Croquettes, Sweet, 356.
  - Rice Croquettes with Jelly, 356.
  - Rice Croustades, 378.
  - Rice Timbales, 363.
  - Rissoles, 379.
  - Rissoles of Lamb, à l’Indienne, 381.
  - Rum Cakes, 388.
  - Russian Cutlets, 373.
  - Salmon Croquettes, 358.
  - Salmon Cutlets, 358.
  - Sardines Fried in Batter, 351.
  - Shad Roe with Celery, 370.
  - Soufflé au Rhum, 378.
  - Spaghetti Timbales, 363.
  - Sponge Fritters, 353.
  - Spring Mousse, 384.
  - Strawberry Baskets, 362.
  - Stuffed Clams. 370.
  - Stuffing for Chicken in Aspic, 384.
  - Swedish Timbales, 362.
  - Sweetbread à la Mont Vert, 371.
  - Sweetbread and Mushroom Timbales, 366.
  - Sweetbread in Peppers, 372.
  - Sweetbread Mousse, 367.
  - Sweetbread Ramequins, 371.
  - Tomato Fritters, 351.
  - Tomatoes in Aspic, 382.
  - Tongue in Aspic, 383.
  - Veal Croquettes, 359.
  - Vol-au-vents, 379.
  - Zigaras à la Russe, 380.
- Espagnole Sauce (Brown) II, 268.
- Fadges, 77.
- Fancy Cakes and Confections, 533–548.
- Farina Cakes with Jelly, 352.
  - Soup, 120.
- Fat, 8.
  - for Frying, test, 21.
  - Margarin, 8.
  - Olein (Liquid), 8.
  - Palmitin (Semi-Solid), 8.
  - Stearin (Solid), 8.
  - Suet. 8.
  - to Clarify, 21.
  - to Try Out, 21.
- Fats and Oils, 8.
- Fermentation, 49.
  - Acetic, 49.
  - Alcoholic, 49.
  - Lactic, 49.
- Fermented Bread, 50.
- Fibrin, 2, 191.
- Figaro Sauce, 275.
- Fig Cups, 566.
  - Éclair Cake, 516.
  - Filling, 526.
  - Ice Cream, 447.
  - Pudding I, 403.
  - Pudding II, 403.
- Fillet, Chicken to, 245.
  - of Beef, Larded, 283.
- Fillets of Bass or Halibut, Baked, 169.
  - of Beef, à la Moelle, 199.
  - of Beef, Broiled, 198.
  - of Beef, Cherry Sauce, 199.
  - of Beef (Mignon), Sautéd, with Sauce Figaro, 199.
  - of Beef (Mignon), Sautéd, with Sauce Trianon, 199.
  - of Beef with Stuffed Mushroom Caps, 250.
  - of Beef with Vegetables, 203.
  - of Fish, à la Bement, 171.
  - of Game, 373.
  - of Haddock, White Wine Sauce, 170.
  - of Halibut, à la Poulette, 170.
  - of Halibut with Brown Sauce, 169.
- Filling, Chocolate, 525.
  - Chocolate Cream, 525.
  - Cocoanut, 525.
  - Cocoanut, Lemon Cream, 526.
  - Cream, 524.
  - Cream, Coffee, 524.
  - Cream, French, 524.
  - Fig, 526.
  - Lamb, 381.
  - Lemon, 525.
  - Lobster and Oyster, 188.
  - Marshmallow Paste, 526.
  - Nut or Fruit, 525.
  - Orange, 525.
  - Pistachio Paste, 526.
  - Prune Almond, 526.
  - Strawberry, 524.
- Finiste Sauce, 279.
- Finnan Haddie, 152.
  - à la Delmonico, 179.
  - Baked, 179.
  - Broiled, 179.
- Fire, 16.
  - how to Build, 17.
- Fish, 151.
  - à la Crême, 176.
  - à la Provençal, 561.
  - and Egg Croquettes, 177.
  - Balls, 178.
  - Blue (Pomatomidæ), 153.
  - Chowder, 142.
  - Cod, 152.
  - Composition of, 161.
  - Cooked in Boiling Water, 160.
  - Cooking, to Prepare for, 159.
  - Cooking, Ways of, 160.
  - Croquettes, 177.
  - Eels, 152.
  - Finnan Haddie, 152.
  - Flounder, 153.
  - Force Meat I, 148.
  - Force Meat II, 149.
  - Freshness of, to Determine, 151.
  - Fried, Russian Style, Mushroom Sauce, 174.
  - 629Haddock, 152.
  - Halibut (Pleuronectidæ), 152.
  - Hash, 177.
  - Herring, 155.
  - Herring, Kippered, 179.
  - Mackerel, 154.
  - Mackerel, Snapping, 153.
  - Mackerel, Spanish, 154.
  - Perch, 152.
  - Salad, with Cucumbers, 343.
  - Salmon, 154.
  - Salt, 152.
  - Sardines, 27.
  - Shad, Jack, 154.
  - Shad, Roe, 154.
  - Smelts, 153.
  - Sole, 153.
  - Stock, 109.
  - Stock, Soups with, 129.
  - Stuffing I, 164.
  - Stuffing II, 165.
  - Sword, 152.
  - Table Showing Composition of, 161.
  - to Bake, 161.
  - to Bone, 160.
  - to Broil, 161.
  - to Clean, 159.
  - to Fillet, 160.
  - to Fry, 161.
  - to Skin, 159.
  - Trout, 153.
  - Turban of, 176.
  - Turbot, 153.
  - Ways of Using Remnants of Cooked, 176.
  - White, 153.
  - White and Oily, 152.
- Five o’Clock Tea, 34.
- Flavoring Extracts, 14.
  - Extracts and Wine, 587.
- Florentine Meringue, 476.
- Flounder, Fried Fillets, 173.
- Flour, 46.
  - Entire Wheat, 49.
  - Gluten, 49.
  - Graham, 47.
  - Wheat, 47.
- Flowering Ice Cream, 457.
- Flûtes, 388.
- Foamy Sauce I, 408.
  - Sauce II, 408.
- Fondant.
  - Coffee, 545.
  - Icing, 531.
  - Maple, 545.
  - White, 544.
- Food, 1.
  - Carbohydrates, 2.
  - Fats and Oils, 2, 8.
  - Inorganic, 1.
  - Organic, 1.
  - Proportions of, Correct, 2.
  - Proteid, 1, 2.
  - Ration, Daily Average, 3.
  - Salts, 5.
  - Water, 2, 4.
- Force-meat.
  - Chicken, I, 149.
  - Chicken, II, 150.
  - Clam, 149.
  - Fish, I, 148.
  - Fish, II, 149.
  - Oyster, 149.
  - Salmon, 149.
- Fowl, Boiled, 245.
  - to Cut up, 245.
  - to Truss, 244.
- Frappé, 433.
  - Café, 439.
  - Clam, 439.
  - Clam and Chicken, 132.
  - Cranberry, 439.
  - Grape, 439.
  - Pineapple, 438.
- French Cream Filling, 524.
  - Dressing, 323.
  - Easter Cream, 432.
  - Fried Onions, 296.
  - Fruit Pudding, 403.
  - Nougat, 541.
  - Omelet, 107.
  - Rusks, 61.
- Fricasseeing, 22.
- Fricassee of Clams, 146.
  - of Lobster and Mushrooms, 188.
  - of Oysters, 181.
- Fried Celery, 350.
  - Chicken, 249.
  - Chicken, Southern Style, 249.
  - Fish, Russian Style, Mushroom Sauce, 174.
  - Lobster, 184.
  - Oysters, 184.
  - Oysters in Batter, 184.
  - Oysters, Philadelphia Relish, 185.
  - Scallops, 186.
  - Smelts, 173.
- Fritter Beans, 148.
- Fritters, Apple, I, 349.
  - Apple, II, 349.
  - Apple, III, 349.
  - Banana, I, 349.
  - Banana, II, 350.
  - Calf’s Brains, 354.
  - Cauliflower, 350.
  - Cherry, Maraschino Sauce, 351.
  - Chocolate, with Vanilla Sauce, 353.
  - Clam, 354.
  - Coffee, with Coffee Cream
  - Sauce, 353.
  - Corn, 291.
  - Fruit, 350.
  - Orange, 350.
  - Parsnip, 297.
  - Queen, 352.
  - Salsify, 296.
  - Sponge, 353.
  - Tomato, 351.
- Frogs, 159.
  - Hind Legs, 175.
- Frostings, 524–532.
  - Boiled, 529.
  - 630Brown, 529.
  - Caramel, I, 530.
  - Caramel, II, 530.
  - Caramel Nut, 530.
  - Caramel, Opera, 530.
  - Chocolate, I, 527.
  - Chocolate, II, 528.
  - Chocolate, III, 528.
  - Chocolate, Boiled, 529.
  - Chocolate Fudge, 531.
  - Confectioners’, 527.
  - Fondant Icing, 531.
  - Gelatine, 527.
  - Ice Cream, 528.
  - Maple Sugar, 529.
  - Maple Sugar Cream, 529.
  - Marshmallow, 531.
  - Milk, 529.
  - Mocha, 518, 531.
  - Orange, 527.
  - Ornamental, I, 532.
  - Ornamental, II, 532.
  - Plain, 527.
  - White Mountain Cream, 528.
- Frozen Apricots, 440.
  - Chocolate, with Whipped Cream, 457.
  - Cranberries, 440.
  - Orange Soufflé, 458.
  - Plum Pudding, 459.
  - Soufflé Glacé, 459.
  - Tom and Jerry, 450.
- Fruit Beverages, 42–45.
  - Cake, Dark, 515.
  - Cake, English, 521.
  - Cake, Light, 517.
  - Canapés, 565.
  - Chartreuse, 423.
  - Cocktails, 569.
  - Cream, 431.
  - Fritters, 350.
  - Pudding, 403.
  - Punch I, 43.
  - Punch II, 43.
  - Punch III, 43.
  - Punch IV, 43.
  - Polls, 71.
  - Salad I, 417.
  - Salad II, 417.
  - Salad, French, 339.
  - Salad, with Wine Dressing, 417.
  - Sandwiches, 552.
  - Shortcake, 84.
  - Soufflé, 397.
  - Stains, to Remove, 588.
- Fruits, 12, 567.
  - Canning and Preserving of, 577.
  - Glacé, 547.
- Fuel, 16.
  - Kinds of, 16.
- Full Course Dinner, Menu for, 600.
  - Dinners, Menu for, 602.
- Furniture, to Remove White Spots from, 588.
  - and Floors, to Polish, 590.
- Galattes, 476.
- Game, Fillets of, 373.
  - Salad, 340.
- Gelatin, 191.
- Gelatine Frosting, 527.
- Gems, Corn Meal, 74.
  - Hominy, 74.
  - Rye, 74.
- German Chowder, 144.
  - Coffee Bread, 62.
  - Punch, 441.
  - Salad Dressing, 325.
  - Sandwiches, 553.
  - Toast, 69.
- Giblet Gravy, 248.
- Giblets, to Clean, 244.
- Ginger, 13.
  - Varieties of, 13.
- Gingerbread, Cambridge, 483.
  - Card, 484.
  - Christmas, English, 484.
  - Fairy, 483.
  - Gossamer, 483.
  - Hot Water, 482.
  - Molasses, Soft, 482.
  - New York, 520.
  - Sour Milk, 482.
  - Sugar, Hard, 484.
  - Sugar, Soft, 483.
- Gingerbreads, Cookies, and Wafers, 482.
- Ginger Cream, 429.
  - Ice Cream, 447.
  - Pound Cakes, 520.
  - Pudding, 399.
  - Punch, 44.
  - Sandwiches, 552.
  - Snaps, 485.
- Glacé Fruits, 547.
  - Nuts, 547.
- Glass, Cut, Care of, 589.
- Glassware, to Prevent Breaking, 589.
- Glazed Onions, 296.
- Glossary, 605.
- Glucose (Grape Sugar), 6.
- Gluten, 2, 49.
- Glycogen (Animal Starch), 6, 155.
- Gnocchi à la Romaine, 352.
- Golden Cake, 517.
  - Corn Cake, 75.
  - Spice Cake, 513.
- Goose, Roast, with Potato Stuffing, 256.
  - Stuffing for (Chestnut), 256.
  - to Truss, 257.
- Graham Bread, 56.
  - Bread, Steamed, 58.
  - Muffins I, 73.
  - Muffins II, 73.
  - Pop-overs, 77.
  - Pudding, 401.
- Granite Ware, to Clean, 588.
- Grape Frappé, 439.
- Grape Fruit and Celery Salad, 341.
  - how to prepare for Serving, 568.
  - with Apricot Brandy, 569.
- 631Grape Fruit with Sherry, 568.
  - with Sloe Gin, 569.
- Grape Jelly, 574.
  - Jelly (Green), 575.
  - Marmalade, 576.
  - Sugar (Glucose), 6.
- Grapes, how to Prepare for Serving, 568.
- Grass Stains, to Remove, 589.
- Gravy, 248.
  - Chestnut, 255.
  - Giblet, 248.
  - Roast Beef, 202.
  - Turkey, 255.
- Grease Spots, to Remove, 589.
- Green Butter, 383.
- Greens, 294.
  - Beet, Boiled, 294.
  - Dandelion, 294.
- Griddle-Cakes, 78.
  - Bread, 79.
  - Buckwheat, 79.
  - Corn, 78.
  - Entire Wheat, 78.
  - Rice, I, 79.
  - Rice, II, 79.
  - Sour Milk, 78.
  - Sweet Milk, 78.
- Grilled Muffins, 66.
  - Sardines, 561.
- Grouse (Prairie Chicken), 242.
  - Breast of, Sauté Chasseur, 258.
  - Larded, 258.
- Gum Arabic, 7.
  - Tragacanth, 7.
- Haddock, 152.
  - Baked, with Oyster Stuffing, 166.
  - Baked, with Stuffing, 164.
  - Boiled, 162.
  - Fillets of, White Wine Sauce, 170.
  - Hæmoglobin, 192.
  - Planked, 168.
- Halibut à la Martin, 171.
  - à la Poulette, 170.
  - à la Rarebit, 171.
  - au Lit, 172.
  - Baked, with Lobster Sauce, 166.
  - Baked, with Tomato Sauce, 166.
  - Chicken, Broiled, 163.
  - Chicken, Sandwiches of, 172.
  - Fillets, Baked, 169.
  - Fillets, Fried, 173.
  - Fillets with Brown Sauce, 169.
  - Hollenden, 167.
  - Little (Turbot), 153.
  - Marguerites, 369.
  - Soup, 137.
  - Steamed, with Silesian Sauce, 163.
  - Timbales I, 364.
  - Timbales II, 364.
- Ham and Eggs, Fried, 237.
  - Barbecued, 237.
  - Boiled, 237.
  - Broiled, 237.
  - Roast, with Champagne Sauce, 237.
  - Sandwiches (Chopped), 550.
  - Sandwiches (Sliced), 550.
  - Shredded, with Current Jelly Sauce, 564.
  - Timbales, 366.
  - Westphalian, 238.
- Hamburg Steak, 200.
- Hard Sauce, 409.
  - Wood Floors, to Polish, 590.
- Hare, Belgian, à la Maryland, 260.
  - Belgian, Sour Cream Sauce, 260.
- Harlequin Ice Cream, 448.
  - Slices, 147.
- Harvard Pudding, 400.
  - Beets, 286.
  - Salad, 347.
- Hash, Corned Beef, 213.
  - Corned Beef, with Beets, 213.
  - Salted Codfish, 178.
- Hearts, Stuffed with Vegetables, 211.
- Helpful Hints for the Young
  - Housekeeper, 586.
- Hermits, 488.
- Herring, 155.
- Hindoo Salad, 333.
- Hollandaise Punch, 441.
  - Sauce I, 274.
  - Sauce II, 274.
- Hollenden Halibut, 167.
- Hominy, Fried, 88.
  - Gems, 74.
  - Muffins (Raised), 66.
- Honey, Quince, 577.
- Horehound Candy, 539.
- Horseradish, 14.
  - Hollandaise Sauce, 274.
  - Sauce I, 275.
  - Sauce II, 275.
- Horseshoes, 534.
- Hot Cross Buns, 65.
  - Mayonnaise Sauce, 278.
  - Puddings, 390–405.
  - Tartare Sauce, 277.
- Huckleberries, Canned, 579.
- Hungarian Salad, 339.
- Hunter’s Pudding, 403.
- Hygienic Soup, 120.
- Ice Chest, Care of, 590.
- Ice Cream, 433.
  - Banana, 447.
  - Bisque, 446.
  - Brown Bread, 446.
  - Burnt Almond, 445.
  - Caramel, 445.
  - Chocolate, I, 444.
  - Chocolate, II, 444.
  - Coffee, 445.
  - Concord Cream, 458.
  - Covington Cream, 450.
  - Croquettes, Vanilla, 444.
  - 632Fig. 447.
  - Freeze, how to, 434.
  - Frozen Chocolate, with Whipped Cream, 437.
  - Frozen Plum Pudding, 459.
  - Frozen Pudding I, 449.
  - Frozen Pudding II, 449.
  - Frozen Tom and Jerry, 450.
  - German, 458.
  - Ginger, 447.
  - Junket, with Peaches, 448.
  - Macaroon, 447.
  - Mould, how to, 435.
  - Mould, how to Line, 435.
  - Neapolitan or Harlequin, 448.
  - Nougat, 453.
  - Orange, 445.
  - Orange Pekoe, 454.
  - Philadelphia, 433.
  - Pineapple, 445.
  - Pineapple (Cream), 440.
  - Pistachio, 447.
  - Pistachio Bisque, 447.
  - Pistachio Fruit, 453.
  - Plain, 433.
  - Praline, 446.
  - Pudding Glacé, 449.
  - Strawberry, I, 444.
  - Strawberry, II, 444.
  - Vanilla, I, 442.
  - Vanilla, II, 443.
- Ice Creams and Ices, Fancy, 435–459.
  - Angel Parfait, 451.
  - Baked Alaska, 448.
  - Biscuit Tortoni, in Boxes, 458.
  - Bombe Glacé, 452.
  - Burnt Walnut Bisque, 446.
  - Café Parfait, 451.
  - Cardinal Mousse, Iced Madeira Sauce, 456.
  - Chocolate Mousse, 455.
  - Cocoanut Naples, Sauterne Sauce, 456.
  - Coffee Mousse, 454.
  - Delmonico Cream, with Angel Food, 450.
  - Demi-Glacé aux Fraises, 457.
  - Flowering Ice Cream, 457.
  - Frozen Charlotte Glacée, 459.
  - Frozen Orange Soufflé, 458.
  - Frozen Soufflée Glacé, 459.
  - Ice à la Margot, 456.
  - Icebergs, 437.
  - Manhattan Pudding, 451.
  - Maple Parfait, 455.
  - Maraschino Ice, 436.
  - Mazarine, 457.
  - Mousse Marron, 455.
  - Nesselrode Pudding, 453.
  - Noisette Bombe, 452.
  - Orange Delicious, 454.
  - Pineapple Mousse, 455.
  - Plombière Glacé, 457.
  - Strawberry Mousse, 454.
  - Sultana Roll, with Claret Sauce, 451.
  - University Pudding, 450.
  - Violet Ice Cream, 448.
- Ice Cream Cake, 517.
- Ice Cream Candy, 538.
- Ice Cream Frosting, 528.
- Ices, 433.
  - Crême de Menthe, 437.
  - Cup St. Jacques, 435.
  - Currant, 436.
  - Frappé, 433.
  - Lemon, 435.
  - Maraschino, 436.
  - Orange, 435.
  - Pomegranate, 436.
  - Punch, 433.
  - Punch, Cardinal, 440.
  - Punch, German, 441.
  - Punch, Hollandaise, 440.
  - Punch, Lenox, 441.
  - Punch, Roman, 442.
  - Punch, Victoria, 441.
  - Raspberry, I, 436.
  - Raspberry, II, 436.
  - Raspberry and Currant, 436.
  - Sherbet, 433.
  - Sherbet, Canton, 437.
  - Sherbet, London, 442.
  - Sherbet, Milk, 437.
  - Sorbet, 433.
  - Sorbet, Apricot, 438.
  - Sorbet, Italian, 438.
  - Sorbet, Pineapple, 438.
  - Sorbet, Sicilian, 438.
  - Strawberry, I, 436.
  - Strawberry, II, 436.
  - Water, 433.
- Imperial Cake, 523.
  - Cookies, 488.
  - Soup, 122.
  - Sticks, 145.
- India Curry, 229.
  - East, Salad, 337.
- Indian Bread, 58.
  - Pudding, 390.
  - Pudding, Mock, 394.
- Ingredients, Measuring, 25.
  - to Beat, 26.
  - to Combine, 26.
  - to Cut and Fold, 26.
  - to Stir, 26.
- Inkstains, to Remove, 589.
- Irish Moss Blanc-Mange, 411.
- Irish Stew, with Dumplings, 205.
- Iron Kettle (New), Care of, 590.
- Iron Rust, to Remove, 589.
- Italian Meringue, 452.
  - Sorbet, 438.
- Ivory Cream, 431.
- Jack’s Oyster Ragout, 559.
- Jam, Blackberry, 575.
  - Raspberry, 575.
- Jams, 575.
- Jellied Chicken, 253.
  - Prunes, 421.
  - Vegetables, 385.
  - Walnuts, 421.
- Jellies, 572.
- 633Jelly, Apple, 573.
  - Apricot and Wine, 421.
  - Aspic, 382.
  - Bag, to Make, 573.
  - Barberry, 574.
  - Blackberry, 574.
  - Cider, 419.
  - Coffee, 419.
  - Crab Apple, 573.
  - Cranberry, 572.
  - Currant, 574.
  - Currant and Raspberry, 574.
  - Damson, 575.
  - Glasses, in, 420.
  - Glasses, to Cover, 573.
  - Glasses, to Prepare, 573.
  - Grape, 574.
  - Grape, Green, 575.
  - Jumbles, 488.
  - Kumquat, 419.
  - Lemon, 418.
  - Omelet, 106.
  - Orange, 418.
  - Orange, in Ambush, 430.
  - Quince, 573.
  - Raspberry, 574.
  - Roll, 505.
  - Russian, 420.
  - Sandwiches, 553.
  - Sauterne, 420.
  - Venison, 575.
  - Wine, I, 419.
  - Wine, II, 420.
- Julienne Soup, 116.
- Junket, Caramel, 412.
  - Ice Cream, with Peaches, 448.
- Kidney Rolls, 223.
- Kidneys, Lambs’, I, 222.
  - Lambs’, II, 222.
  - Veal, à la Canfield, 231.
  - Veal, Broiled, 231.
- Knives, Care of, 588.
- Knöfli, 92.
- Kohl-rabi, 280.
- Kola-Nut, 39.
- Kornettes, 493.
- Kornlet Soup, 138.
- Kumquat Jelly, 419.
- Lactose (Milk Sugar), 6.
- Lady Fingers, 504.
- Lamb, 214.
  - Barbecued, 224.
  - Blanquette of, 223.
  - Breast of, 225.
  - Bretonne, 218.
  - Casserole of, 220.
  - Casserole of Rice and, 224.
  - Chops, Broiled, 215.
  - Chops, Pan Broiled, à la Lucullus, 376.
  - Croquettes, 359.
  - Crown of, 219.
  - Divisions of, 214.
  - Filling, 381.
  - Fricassee of, with Brown Gravy, 221.
  - Kidneys I, 222.
  - Kidneys II, 222.
  - Leg of, 215.
  - Minced on Toast, 223.
  - Réchauffé of, 224.
  - Rissoles, à l’Indienne, 381.
  - Roast, 218.
  - Saddle of l’Estragon Sauce, 219.
  - Salmi of, 224.
  - Scalloped, 223.
  - Stock, 109.
  - Yearling, 214.
- Lard, 8.
- Larding, 23.
- Lattice Potatoes, 314.
- Leek and Potato Soup, 139.
- Leeks on Toast, 295.
- Legumen, 2.
- Legumes, 281.
- Lemonade, 42.
  - Pineapple, 42.
- Lemon Butter, 273.
  - Cocoanut Cream, 526.
  - Filling, 525.
  - Ice, 435.
  - Jelly, 418.
  - Pie I, 469.
  - Pie II, 469.
  - Pie III, 470.
  - Pie IV, 470.
  - Pie V, 470.
  - Pudding, Steamed, 394.
  - Queens, 519.
  - Sauce I, 406.
  - Sauce II, 406.
  - Sauce III, 406.
  - Soufflé, 396.
  - Sticks, 477.
  - Tartlets, 479.
- Lenox Punch, 441.
- Lenten Croquettes, 355.
- Lenten Salad, 336.
- Lettuce, 294.
  - and Cucumber Salad, 327.
  - and Radish Salad, 327.
  - and Tomato Salad, 328.
  - Dressed, 327.
  - Salad, 331.
  - Sandwiches, 550.
  - Soup, Cream of, 124.
- Levulose (Fruit Sugar), 6.
- Lily Cake, 515.
- Lime Water, 10.
- Lincoln Croquettes, 361.
- Listerine, 591.
- Liver and Bacon, 207.
  - Braised, 208.
  - Broiled, 207.
  - Calf’s, Stuffed and Larded, 208.
- Livers, Chickens’, with Bacon, 253.
  - Chickens’, with Curry, 254.
  - Chickens’, Sautéd, 253.
- Lobster, 156.
  - à l’Américaine, 190.
  - à la Delmonico, 560.
  - 634à la Muisset, 190.
  - à la Newburg, 560.
  - and Mushrooms, Fricassee of, 188.
  - and Oyster Filling, 188.
  - and Oyster Ragout, 188.
  - Bisque, 133.
  - Butter, 273.
  - Buttered, 187.
  - Canapé, 554.
  - Chowder, 144.
  - Cocktail, 186.
  - Cream I, 365.
  - Cream II, 365.
  - Croquettes, 358.
  - Curried, 187.
  - Cutlets, 358.
  - Devilled, 187.
  - Farci, 187.
  - Fried, 186.
  - Live, Baked, 189.
  - Live, en Brochette, 190.
  - Live, to Broil, 189.
  - Live, to Split, 189.
  - Plain, 186.
  - Salad I, 342.
  - Salad II, 342.
  - Salad III, 342.
  - Sandwiches, 55.
  - Sandwiches à la Boulevard, 551.
  - Sauce I, 274.
  - Sauce II, 275.
  - Sauce III, 173.
  - Scalloped, 187.
  - Stuffed, à la Béchamel, 189.
  - Timbales I, 364.
  - Timbales II, 364.
  - to Open, 157.
  - to Select, 157.
- Loin or Kidney Chops, 214.
- London Sherbet, 442.
- Luncheon Menus, 594–597.
  - Rolls, 61.
- Macaroni, 85.
  - à la Milanaise, 92.
  - à l’Italienne, 91.
  - Baked, 91.
  - Baked, with Cheese, 91.
  - Boiled, 90.
  - Italian Style, 91.
  - Oysters and, 183.
  - Soup, 114.
  - Timbales, 363.
  - with Tomato Sauce, 91.
  - with White Sauce, 90.
- Macaroon Cream, 424.
  - Dust, to Prepare, 587
  - Ice Cream, 447.
- Macaroons, 533.
  - Almond, 533.
  - Nut, 495.
- Mace, 14.
- Macédoine, Pudding à la, 423.
  - of Vegetables, à la Poulette, 308.
  - Salad, 331.
- Mackerel, Baked, 167.
  - Mayonnaise of, 386.
- Madeira Sauce, Iced, 456.
- Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 273, 312.
  - d’Hôtel Potatoes, 312.
- Malaga Boats, 478.
  - Salad, 339.
- Manhattan Pudding, 451.
- Maple Fondant, 545.
  - Parfait, 455.
  - Sugar Candy, 542.
  - Sugar Cream Frosting, 529.
  - Sugar Frosting, 529.
- Maraschino Ice, 436.
- Margarin, 8.
- Marguerites I, 493.
  - II, 493.
- Marinate, how to, 323.
- Marmalades, 576.
  - Grape, 576.
  - Orange I, 576; II, 576.
  - Orange and Rhubarb, 577.
  - Quince, 576.
- Marrow-Bone, 8.
- Marshmallow Cake, 516.
  - Frosting, 531.
  - Paste, 526.
  - Pudding à la Stanley, 432.
- Marshmallows, Toasted, 422.
- Martin’s Specialty, 371.
- Maryland Biscuit, 77.
  - Chicken, 249.
  - Croquettes, 360.
- Mayonnaise Dressing I, 326.
  - Dressing II, 326.
  - Dressing (Cream), 327
  - Green, 327.
  - Hot, 278.
  - of Mackerel, 386.
  - Potato, 327.
  - Ravigôte, 344.
  - Red, 327.
  - Tomato, 336.
- Mazarine, 457.
- Measure, how to, 25.
- Measuring Butter, Lard, etc., 25.
  - Dry Ingredients, 25.
  - Liquids, 25.
- Meat, 191.
  - Composition of, 195.
  - Effect of Temperature on Cooking of, 194.
  - Glaze, 587.
  - Table Showing Composition of, 195.
- Melon Rind, Preserved, 582.
- Melons, how to Prepare, for Serving, 567.
- Menus for Breakfast, Lunches, and Dinners, 592–603.
- Meringue, Apple, 413.
  - Creole Kisses, 481.
  - Florentine, 476.
  - Glacées or Kisses, 480.
  - I, 480.
  - II, 480.
  - III, 480.
  - Italian, 452.
  - Mushrooms, 481.
  - Nut, 480.
  - 635Panachées, 481.
  - Peach, 413.
- Meringues for Pies, Puddings, and
  - Desserts, 479–481.
- Mexican Jelly Salad, with Tomato
  - Mayonnaise, 335.
- Milk, 9.
  - and Water Bread, 54.
  - Composition of, 9.
  - Condensed, 9.
  - Frosting, 529.
  - Malted, 9.
  - Sherbet, 437.
  - to Scald, 586.
  - Toast I, 68.
  - Toast II, 68.
  - why it Sours, 9.
- Mince Meat, English, 472.
  - Meat (without Alcoholic Liquor), 472.
  - Meat I, 471.
  - Meat II, 471.
  - Pie, Mock, 472.
  - Pies, 470.
- Mineral Matter, 192.
  - Waters, 4.
- Mint Julep, 42.
  - Sauce, 276.
- Minuten Fleisch, 228.
- Mirrors and Windows, to Wash, 588.
- Mocha Cake, 503.
  - Cakes, 518.
  - Cakes, Walnut, 513.
  - Frosting, 518, 531.
  - Soufflé, 397.
- Mock Almonds, 146.
  - Bisque Soup, 140.
  - Cherry Pie, 472.
  - Crabs, 371.
  - Indian Pudding, 394.
  - Mince Pie, 472.
  - Terrapin, 262.
  - Turtle Soup, 127.
- Moisture, 15.
- Molasses Candy, 537.
  - Candy, Velvet, 537.
  - Cookies, 485.
  - Cookies, Soft, 186.
  - Pound Cake, 520.
  - Sauce, 407.
- Mollusks, Bivalve, 155.
- Mont Blanc, 425.
- Monte Carlo Salad, 341.
- Moonshine Cake, 503.
- Moulded Chicken, Sauterne Jelly, 387.
  - Fish, Normandy Sauce, 170.
  - Salmon, Cucumber Sauce, 386.
  - Snow, 412.
  - Russian Salad, 335.
- Mousse, 433.
  - Cardinal, with Iced Madeira
  - Sauce, 456.
  - Chicken, 374.
  - Chocolate, 455.
  - Coffee, 454.
  - Marron, 455.
  - Pineapple, 455.
  - Spring, 384.
  - Strawberry, 454.
  - Sweetbread, 367.
- Mucilage, 7.
- Muffins, Berkshire, 75.
  - Berry I (without Eggs), 72.
  - Berry II, 72.
  - Graham I, 73.
  - Graham II, 73.
  - Grilled, 66.
  - Health Food, 67.
  - Hominy, 66.
  - Imperial, 67.
  - Oatmeal, 73.
  - Oatmeal, Raised, 66.
  - One Egg, I, 72.
  - One Egg, II, 72.
  - Queen of, 73.
  - Raised, 65.
  - Rice, 73.
  - Rice, Raised, 66.
  - Rye, I, 74.
  - Rye, II, 74.
  - Twin Mountain, 71.
  - Zante, 77.
- Mulligatawny Soup, 127.
- Mush, Corn Meal, Fried, 88.
  - Hominy, Fried, 88.
  - Oatmeal, with Apples, 87.
- Mushes, Fried, 87.
- Mushroom Caps, Stuffed, 200, 250.
  - Sauce, Brown, I, 268.
  - Sauce, Brown, II, 268.
  - Soup, 124.
  - Soup, Cream of, 124.
- Mushrooms, 282.
  - à l’Algonquin, 306.
  - à la Sabine, 305.
  - Allamande, 306.
  - Baked, in Cream, 305.
  - Broiled, 305.
  - Sautéd, 305.
  - Stewed, 304.
  - Stewed, in Cream, 304.
  - Stuffed, 306.
  - Under Glass I, 306.
  - Under Glass II, 307.
- Mussels, 155.
- Mustard, 13.
  - how to Mix, 587.
- Mutton, 215.
  - Broth, Scotch, 221.
  - Chops, 215.
  - Chops, à la Signora, 216.
  - Chops, Breaded, 216.
  - Chops, Pan-broiled, 215.
  - Curry, 220.
  - Cutlets, à la Maintenon, 217.
  - English, Southdown, 214.
  - Flavor of, 214.
  - Leg, Boiled, 217.
  - Leg, Braised, 218.
  - Minced, 564.
  - Myosin, 191.
  - Saddle of, to Carve, 219.
  - Saddle of, with Currant Jelly
  - Sauce, 219.
  - Saddle of, with Mint Sauce, 219.
  - 636Warming over, Ways of, 223.
  - with Currant Jelly Sauce, 564.
- Napoleons, 477.
- Neapolitan Baskets, 416.
  - or Harlequin Ice Cream, 448.
- Nesselrode Pudding, 453.
- Neufchâtel Salad I, 337.
  - Salad II, 337.
- Neuremburghs, 492.
- New England Brown Bread, 58.
- New York Ginger Bread, 520.
- Newport Pound Cake, 520.
- Newton Tapioca, 391.
- Nile Salad, 345.
- Noisette Bomb, 452.
  - Sandwiches, 552.
- Noodle Shells, 198.
- Noodles, 147.
- Normandy Sauce, 171.
- Norwegian Prune Pudding, 416.
- Nougat Ice Cream, 453.
- Nougatine Drops, 541.
- Nut and Celery Salad I, 338.
  - and Celery Salad II, 338.
  - and Cheese Sandwiches, 551.
  - Bar, 540.
  - Bars, 495.
  - Cake, Spice, 514.
  - Cake, White, 517.
  - Cakes, 515.
  - Chocolate Caramels, 540.
  - Cookies, 490.
  - Macaroons, 495.
  - or Fruit Filling, 525.
  - Prune Soufflé, 416.
  - Salad, 338.
- Nutmeg, 14.
- Nuts, Glacé, 547.
- Oatmeal Cookies, 487.
  - Muffins, 73.
  - Muffins (Raised), 66.
- Oil, Animal, 8.
  - Cod Liver, 8, 152.
  - Dressing I, 325.
  - Dressing II, 326.
  - in Egg Yolk, 8.
- Oils, Essential, where Found, 8.
  - Fixed, where Found, 8.
  - Vegetable, where Found, 8.
- Okra, 280, 281.
- Oleomargarine, 8.
- Olive and Almond Sauce, 272.
  - Sauce, 268.
- Omelet, Almond, with Caramel Sauce, 108.
  - Bread, 106.
  - Cheese, 558.
  - French, 107.
  - Jelly, 106.
  - Orange, 106.
  - Oyster, 106.
  - Plain, 105.
  - Rich, 108.
  - Robespierre, 108.
  - Soufflé, 379.
  - Spanish, 107.
  - to Fold and Turn, 106.
  - with Croûtons, 107.
  - with Meat or Vegetables, 106.
- Omelets, 105.
- One Egg Cake, 505.
- Onions, 295.
  - Boiled, 295.
  - French Fried, 296.
  - Fried, 296.
  - Glazed, 296.
  - in Cream, 295.
  - Juice, to Extract, 586.
  - Pickled, 585.
  - Scalloped, 295.
  - Stuffed, 296.
- Opera Caramel Frosting, 530.
- Orangeade, 42.
- Orange and Rhubarb Marmalade, 577.
  - Baskets, 429.
  - Cake, 508.
  - Charlotte, 429.
  - Custard, 413.
  - Delicious, 454.
  - Filling, 525.
  - Fritters, 350.
  - Frosting, 527.
  - Ice, 435.
  - Ice Cream, 445.
  - Jelly, 418.
  - Jelly in Ambush, 430.
  - Marmalade I, 576.
  - Marmalade II, 576.
  - Mint Salad, 339.
  - Omelet, 106.
  - Peel (Candied), 547.
  - Pekoe Ice Cream, 454.
  - Puffs, 395.
  - Salad, 338, 417.
  - Sauce, 269.
  - Sauce (Pudding), 407.
  - Sticks, 477.
  - Trifle, 427.
- Oranges, Ways of Preparing for Serving, 568.
- Ornamental Frosting I, 532.
  - Frosting II, 532.
- Ossein, 191.
- Ox Joints, Braised, 211.
- Oxalic Acid, Care with, 590.
- Ox-tail Soup, 117.
- Oyster and Grape Fruit Salad, 344.
  - and Macaroni Croquettes, 357.
  - Bisque, 133.
  - Cocktail I, 180.
  - Cocktail II, 180.
  - Cocktail III, 180.
  - Crabs à la Newburg, 357.
  - Crabs, Bouchées of, 369.
  - Crabs, Fried, 369.
  - Force-meat, 149.
  - Gumbo, 131.
  - Omelet, 106.
  - Plant (Salsify), Creamed, 296,
  - Rarebit, 562.
  - Sandwiches, 551.
  - Sauce, 272.
  - Soup, 130.
  - Soup, Amsterdam Style, 130.
  - 637Soup, French, 130.
  - Stew, 129.
  - Stuffing, 166.
  - Toast, 183.
- Oysters, 155.
  - à la Astor, 182.
  - à la Ballard, 181.
  - à la D’Uxelles, 559.
  - à la Somerset, 357.
  - à la Thorndike, 559.
  - and Bacon, 184.
  - and Macaroni, 183.
  - Broiled, 183.
  - Creamed, 182.
  - Devilled, 368.
  - Fancy Roast, 181.
  - Fricassee of, 181.
  - Fried, 184.
  - Fried in Batter, 184.
  - Fried, Philadelphia Relish, 185.
  - in Brown Sauce, 182.
  - on Half Shell, 179.
  - Panned, 181.
  - Raw, 179.
  - Roasted, 180.
  - Sautéd, 184.
  - Savory, 182.
  - Scalloped, 183.
  - to Block Ice for, 180.
  - to Clean, 156.
  - to Open, 156.
- Palm Leaves, 477.
- Parfait, Angel, 451.
  - Café, 451.
  - Maple, 455.
- Parisian French Dressing, 323.
  - Sweets, 536.
- Parker House Rolls, 58.
- Parmesan, Consommé, 128.
  - Pâte à Choux, 128.
- Parsley, to Chop, 586.
- Parsnip Fritters, 297.
- Parsnips, 297.
  - with Drawn Butter Sauce, 297.
- Partridge, 241.
- Paste, Chopped, 464.
  - Entire Wheat, 465.
  - Plain, 460, 463.
  - Puff, 460, 461.
  - Quick, 463.
  - Quick Puff, 463.
  - with Lard, 464.
- Pastry, 460.
  - Bag, to Make, 591.
  - Desserts, 475–479.
- Pâte à Choux, 148.
  - à Choux, Parmesan, 148.
- Pâtes, Consommé aux, 129.
- Patties, 379.
  - Dresden, 380.
  - Russian, 380.
- Patty Shells, 462.
- Pea Soup, 137.
  - Soup, Split, 138.
  - Timbales, 298.
- Peas, 297.
  - Boiled, 297.
  - Creamed, 298.
- Peach Canapés, 565.
  - Crusts, 478.
  - Custard, 413.
  - Pie, 472.
  - Tapioca, 391.
- Peaches, Baked, 571.
  - Brandied, 581.
  - Canned, 578.
  - Pickled, Sweet, 583.
- Peanut Cookies, 490.
  - Nougat, 540.
- Peanuts, Salted, 536.
- Pear Chips, 580.
  - Salad, 340.
- Pears, Baked, 571.
  - Canned, 576.
  - Pickled, Sweet, 583.
- Pecans, Salted, 536.
- Pectic Acid, 7.
- Pectin, 7.
- Pectose, 7.
- Pectosic Acid, 7.
- Pepper, Black, 13.
  - Cayenne Capsicum, 13.
  - White, 13.
- Pepper and Grape Fruit Salad, 340.
- Peppercorns, 13.
- Peppermints, 544.
- Peppers, Red, Canned, 581.
  - Stuffed, I, 298.
  - Stuffed, II, 298.
  - Sweetbreads in, 372.
- Persillade Potatoes, 313.
- Petit Four, 502.
  - Pepper Pot, 127.
- Philadelphia Ice Cream, 433.
- Piano Keys, to Clean, 590.
- Pickled Onions, 585.
- Pickles, Chopped, 584.
  - Cucumber, Ripe, 583.
  - Cucumber, Unripe, 584.
  - Spanish, 585.
  - Tomato, Ripe, 583.
- Pickling, 582.
- Pies, 466–474.
  - Apple, I, 467.
  - Apple, II, 467.
  - Beefsteak, 212.
  - Blackberry, 467.
  - Blueberry, 468.
  - Chicken, 251.
  - Chocolate, 508.
  - Cocoanut, 507.
  - Cottage, 212.
  - Cranberry, 468.
  - Cream, 468.
  - Cream, I, 507.
  - Cream, II, 507.
  - Currant, 468.
  - Custard, 469.
  - Date, 469.
  - Lemon, I, 469.
  - Lemon, II, 469.
  - Lemon, III, 470.
  - Lemon, IV, 470.
  - Lemon, V, 470.
  - Mince, 470.
  - Mince Meat, I, 471.
  - 638Mince Meat, II, 471.
  - Mince Meat, English, 472.
  - Mince Meat (without Alcoholic Liquor), 472.
  - Mock Cherry, 472.
  - Mock Mince, 472.
  - Peach, 472.
  - Prune, 473.
  - Pumpkin, 474.
  - Rhubarb, 473.
  - Squash, I, 473.
  - Squash, II, 474.
  - Washington, 507.
- Pigeons, 241.
  - Potted, 258.
  - Stuffing for, 259.
- Pigs’ Feet, Broiled, 238.
  - Feet, Fried, 238.
- Pilaf, Turkish, I, 89.
  - Turkish, II, 89.
  - Turkish, III, 89.
  - Russian, 90, 373.
- Pimento (Allspice), 14.
  - Timbales, 363.
- Pineapple Bavarian Cream, 430.
  - Cream, 440.
  - Frappé, 438.
  - Ice Cream, 445.
  - Lemonade, 42.
  - Mousse, 455.
  - Pudding, 412.
  - Sorbet, 438.
- Pineapples, Canned, 579.
- Pin Wheel Biscuit, 71.
- Piquante Sauce, 268.
- Pistachio Bisque, 447.
  - Fruit Ice Cream, 453.
  - Ice Cream, 447.
  - Paste, 526.
- Plain Frosting, 527.
  - Paste, 463.
- Planked Beefsteak, 198.
  - Chicken, 250.
  - Eggs, 100.
  - Haddock, 168.
  - Shad or White Fish, 167.
  - Shad, with Creamed Roe, 168.
- Plombière Glacé, 457.
- Plover, 242.
  - Broiled or Roasted, 258.
- Poached Eggs à la Reine, 96.
  - à la Tripe, 97.
  - with Clam Soup, 131.
  - with Sauce Bearnaise, 98.
- Polish for Hard Wood Floors, 590.
  - Tartlets, 478.
- Pomegranate Ice, 436.
- Pomona Frappé, 439.
- Pompano Broiled with Fricassee
  - of Clams, 164.
- Poor Man’s Pudding, 390.
- Pop-overs, 76.
  - Graham, 77.
- Popped Corn, Sugared, 537.
- Pork, 235.
  - Chops, 236.
  - Chops, with Fried Apples, 236.
  - Roast, 236.
  - Salt, Fried with Codfish, 236.
  - Tenderloins with Sweet Potatoes, 236.
- Porter Apples, Canned, 578.
- Portière Poles, how to Slip Easily, 591.
- Port Wine Sauce, 277.
- Potage à la Reine, 121.
- Potato and Celery Salad, 330.
  - Apples, 317.
  - Balls, 313.
  - Balls, Fried, 315.
  - Balls, Sweet, 318.
  - Border, 311.
  - Cakes, 319.
  - Croquettes, 316.
  - Croquettes, French, 316.
  - Curls, 316.
  - Fritters, 316.
  - Marbles, 315.
  - Mayonnaise, 327.
  - Nests, 314.
  - Omelet, 311.
  - Salad I, 329.
  - Salad II, 330.
  - Salad, Hot, 330.
  - Soup, 138.
  - Soup, Swiss, 139.
  - Stuffing, 256.
- Potatoes à l’Antlers, 319.
  - à la Hollandaise, 311.
  - Anna, 313.
  - au Gratin, 319.
  - Baked, 310.
  - Baked in Half Shell, 312.
  - Boiled, 310.
  - Brabant, 313.
  - Chambery, 311.
  - Chartreuse, 320.
  - Composition of, 309.
  - Creamed, 319.
  - Curried, 321.
  - Delmonico, 319.
  - Duchess, 312.
  - en Surprise, 317.
  - Franconia, 312.
  - French Fried, 315.
  - Hashed Brown, 319.
  - Hongroise, 313.
  - Lattice, 314.
  - Lyonnaise, I, 320.
  - Lyonnaise, II, 320.
  - Maître d’Hôtel, 312.
  - Mashed, 311.
  - Oak Hill, 320.
  - O’Brion, 315.
  - Persillade, 313.
  - Riced, 310.
  - Sautéd, 320.
  - Scalloped, 311.
  - Shadow, Saratoga Chips, 314.
  - Shredded, 314.
  - Somerset Style, 315.
  - Sweet, 310.
  - Sweet, au Gratin, 318.
  - Sweet, Baked, 317.
  - Sweet, Balls, 318.
  - Sweet, Boiled, 317.
  - Sweet, Croquettes, 318.
  - Sweet, en Brochette, 318.
  - 639Sweet, Georgian Style, 318
  - Sweet, Glazed, 318.
  - Sweet, Mashed, 317.
  - Sweet, Southern Style, 317.
  - Sweet, Warmed over, 319.
  - Sweet, with Pork Tenderloins, 236.
  - White, 309.
- Poulette Sauce, 308.
- Poultry and Game, 240–264.
  - Giblets, to clean, 244.
  - to Cut up, 243.
  - to Dress and Clean, 242.
  - to Select, 242.
  - to Stuff, 244.
  - to Truss, 244.
  - Ways of Warming over, 261.
- Pound Cake, 520.
- Praline Ice Cream, 446.
- Pralines, 543.
- Preserved Melon Rind, 582.
- Preserving Fruits, 577.
- Preserving, Ways of, 26.
  - by Antiseptics, 27.
  - Canning, 26.
  - Drying, 27.
  - Evaporation, 27.
  - Exclusion of Air, 26.
  - Freezing, 26.
  - Pickling, 27.
  - Refrigeration, 26.
  - Salting, 27.
  - Smoking, 27.
  - Sugar, 26.
- Pressed Beef Flank, 205.
- Prune Almond Cake, 516.
  - Almond Filling, 516, 526.
  - Norwegian Pudding, 416.
  - Pie, 473.
  - Whip, 414.
- Prunes, Jellied, 421.
  - Stewed, 572.
- Pudding à l’Adrea, 431.
  - à la Macédoine, 423.
  - Amber, 422.
  - Apple, Bread and Butter, 393.
  - Apple, Steamed, 398.
  - Apple Tapioca, 391.
  - Apricot Soufflé, 396.
  - Bangor, 394.
  - Blueberry, Steamed, 399.
  - Bread, 392.
  - Bread and Butter, 393.
  - Cabinet, 424.
  - Cerealine, 390.
  - Chestnut Soufflé, 398.
  - Chocolate, 395.
  - Chocolate Bread, 393.
  - Chocolate Rice Meringue, 398.
  - Chocolate Soufflé, 397.
  - Chocolate, Steamed, 400.
  - Cold Cabinet, 424.
  - Columbian, 424.
  - Corn, 392.
  - Cottage, 395.
  - Cracker Custard, 393.
  - Cranberry, Steamed, 399.
  - Custard Soufflé, 396.
  - English Plum, I, 404.
  - English Plum, II, 404.
  - Fig, I, 403; II, 403.
  - French Easter, 432.
  - French Fruit, 403.
  - Frozen, I, 449; II, 449.
  - Fruit Soufflé, 397.
  - Ginger, 399.
  - Glacé, 449.
  - Graham, 401.
  - Harvard, 400.
  - Hunter’s, 403.
  - Indian, 390.
  - Lemon Soufflé, 396.
  - Lemon Steamed, 394.
  - Marshmallow à la Stanley, 432.
  - Marshmallows, Toasted, 422.
  - Mocha Soufflé, 397.
  - Mock Indian, 394.
  - Moulded Snow, 412.
  - Nesselrode, 453.
  - Newton Tapioca, 391.
  - Norwegian Prune, 416.
  - Orange Puffs, 395.
  - Peach Tapioca, 391.
  - Pears Sautéd, Chocolate Sauce 418.
  - Pineapple, 412.
  - Poor Man’s, 390.
  - Rebecca, 411.
  - Rice, 390.
  - Royal Diplomatic, 430.
  - Scalloped Apples, 392.
  - Snow, I, 422.
  - Snow, II, 422.
  - Snowballs, 401.
  - Spanish Soufflé, 398.
  - St. James, 401.
  - Strawberry Cottage, 395.
  - Suet, 402.
  - Swiss, 400.
  - Tapioca Custard, 391.
  - Thanksgiving, I, 402.
  - Thanksgiving, II, 402.
  - Tipsy, 413.
- Pudding Sauces, 406–410.
- Puddings, Hot, 390–405.
- Puff Paste, 461.
  - Paste, to Bake, 462.
- Puffs, Breakfast, 77.
  - Orange, 395.
  - Raspberry, 477.
- Pulled Bread, 146.
- Pumpkin Pie, 474.
- Pumpkins, 300.
- Punch, 433.
  - Cardinal, 440.
  - Champagne, 44.
  - Claret, 42.
  - Club, 44.
  - Fruit, I, 43.
  - Fruit, II, 43.
  - Fruit, III, 43.
  - Fruit, IV, 43.
  - German, 441.
  - Ginger, 44.
  - Hollandaise, 441.
  - Lenox, 441.
  - 640Roman, 442.
  - Victoria, 441.
- Purées, 109.
- Quahaugs, 156.
- Quail, 240, 241.
  - Breast of, Lucullus, 376.
  - Broiled, 258.
  - Pies, 381.
  - Roast, 258.
- Queen Cake, 519.
  - Fritters, 352.
  - Muffins of, 73.
- Quenelles, 150.
- Quick Cake, 508.
  - Paste, 464.
  - Puff Paste, 463.
- Quince Honey, 577.
  - Jelly, 573.
  - Marmalade, 576.
- Quinces, Baked, 571.
  - Canned, 579.
- Radishes, 299.
- Raised Doughnuts, 81.
  - Hominy Muffins, 66.
  - Oatmeal Muffins, 66.
  - Rice Muffins, 66.
  - Waffles, 81.
- Ramequins Soufflés, 377.
  - Sweetbreads of, 371.
- Range, Care of, after Frying, 588.
  - Set and Portable, 17.
- Rarebit, Oyster, 562.
  - Tomato, 563.
  - Welsh, I, 562.
  - Welsh, II, 562.
- Raspberry and Currant Ice. 436.
  - and Currant Preserve, 581.
  - Ice I, 436.
  - Ice II 436.
  - Jam, 575.
  - Jelly, 574.
  - Puffs, 477.
  - Whip, 414.
- Rattan Furniture, to Remove Dust from, 591.
- Ravioli, 92.
- Rebecca Pudding, 411.
- Red Peppers, Canned, 581.
- Reptiles, 159.
  - Frogs, 159.
  - Terrapin, 159.
- Rhode Island Chowder, 143.
- Rhubarb, Canned, 579.
  - Pie, 473.
  - Sauce, 572.
- Ribbon Cake, 513.
- Rice, à la Riston. 89.
  - and Meat, Casserole of, 224.
  - and Tomato Croquettes, 356.
  - Boiled, 88.
  - Compote of, with Peaches, 377.
  - Compote of, with Pears, 378.
  - Croquettes, Sweet, 356.
  - Croquettes with Jelly, 356.
  - Croustades of, 378.
  - Griddle-Cakes I, 79.
  - Griddle-Cakes II, 79.
  - Muffins, 73.
  - Muffins, Raised, 66.
  - Pudding, 390.
  - Sauce, 276.
  - Steamed, 88.
  - Timbales, 363.
  - to Wash, 88.
  - Waffles 80.
  - with Cheese, 89.
- Riced Potatoes, 310.
- Rissoles, 379.
  - Filling for, 379.
  - Lamb of, à l’Indienne, 381
- Rissoto Creole, 90.
- Roasted Oysters, 180.
- Roasting, 20.
- Rolls, Coffee, 63.
  - Fruit, 71.
  - Kidney, 223.
  - Luncheon, 61.
  - Parker House, 58.
  - Salad or Dinner, 59.
  - Swedish, 60.
  - Sweet French, 60.
- Roman Punch, 442.
- Roulettes, Chestnut, 355.
- Royal Custard, 147.
- Royal Diplomatic Pudding, 430.
- Royal Fans, 489.
- Royal Soup, 121.
- Rules for Testing Fat for Frying, 21.
- Rum Cakes, with Rum Sauce, 388.
- Rusks, French, 61.
  - Zweiback, 61.
- Russian Cutlets, 373.
  - Jelly, 420.
  - Patties, 380.
  - Pilaf, 90.
  - Salad, 331.
  - Salad, Moulded, 335.
  - Sandwiches, 553.
  - Sauce, 278.
  - Tea. 34.
- Rye Biscuit, 56.
  - Bread, 57.
  - Drop Cakes, 81.
  - Flakes, 86.
  - Gems, 74.
  - Muffins I, 74.
  - Muffins II, 74.
- Sabyon Sauce, 409.
- Saddle of Lamb, l’Estragnon Sauce, 219.
  - of Mutton, with Currant Mint Sauce, 219.
- Sago, 6.
  - Soup with Veal, 122.
- Salad à la Russe, 324.
  - Asparagus, 329.
  - Banana, 338.
  - Berkshire, in Boxes, 345.
  - Bolivia, 330.
  - Brazilian, 340.
  - Celery and Cabbage, 329.
  - Celery, Dressed, 329.
  - Cheese, 337.
  - Cheese and Currant, 337.
  - 641Cheese and Olive, 337.
  - Chicken, I, 344.
  - Chicken, II, 344.
  - Chicken and Oyster, 346.
  - Chicken, Individual, in Aspic, 345.
  - Chicken, Lenox, 387.
  - Chiffonade, 333.
  - Corn, 329.
  - Cottage Cheese, I, 336.
  - Cottage Cheese, II, 336.
  - Crab and Tomato, 343.
  - Cracker and Cheese, 336.
  - Cucumber, 328.
  - Cucumber Baskets, 328.
  - Cucumber Cups with Lettuce, 328.
  - Cucumber with Tomato, 328.
  - De Johns, 340.
  - East India, 337.
  - Egg, I, 336.
  - Egg, II, 336.
  - Fish, with Cucumbers, 343.
  - Fruit, I, 417.
  - Fruit, II, 417.
  - Fruit, French, 339.
  - Fruit, with Wine Dressing, 417.
  - Game, 340.
  - Grape Fruit and Celery, 341.
  - Harvard, 347.
  - Hindoo, 333.
  - Hungarian, 339.
  - Lenten, 336.
  - Lettuce, 331.
  - Lettuce and Cucumber, 327.
  - Lettuce and Radish, 327.
  - Lettuce and Tomato, 328.
  - Lettuce, Dressed, 327.
  - Lobster, I, 342.
  - Lobster, II, 342.
  - Lobster, III, 342.
  - Macédoine, 331.
  - Malaga, 339.
  - Mexican Jelly with Tomato
  - Mayonnaise, 336.
  - Monte Carlo, 341.
  - Neufchâtel, I, 337.
  - Neufchâtel, II, 337.
  - Nile, 345.
  - Nut, 338.
  - Nut and Celery, I, 338.
  - Nut and Celery, II, 338.
  - Orange, 338, 417.
  - Orange Mint, 339.
  - Oyster and Grape Fruit, 344.
  - Pear, 340.
  - Pepper and Grape Fruit, 340.
  - Potato, I, 330.
  - Potato, II, 330.
  - Potato and Celery, 330.
  - Potato, Hot, 330.
  - Rolls or Dinner, 59.
  - Russian, 331.
  - Russian, Moulded, 335.
  - Salmon, 341.
  - Salmon, à la Martin, 344.
  - Sardine, 341.
  - Scallop and Tomato, 343.
  - Shrimp, 341.
  - Spinach, 335.
  - Sticks, 60.
  - String Bean, 329.
  - Sweetbread and Celery, 347.
  - Sweetbread and Cucumber, I, 346.
  - Sweetbread and Cucumber, II, 346.
  - Swiss, 345.
  - Tomato and Cheese, 334.
  - Tomato and Cucumber, 333.
  - Tomato and Horseradish, 332.
  - Tomato and Watercress, 333.
  - Tomato Ciboulettes, 333.
  - Tomato, Frozen, 334.
  - Tomato Jelly, 334.
  - Tomato, Stuffed, I, 332.
  - Tomato, Stuffed, II, 332.
  - Tomato, Stuffed, German Style, 332.
  - Tomato, Stuffed with Pineapple, 332.
  - Waldorf, 339.
  - Watercress and Cucumber, 328.
  - Watercress, Dressed, 328.
  - Wiersbick’s, 333.
- Salad Dressing, Boiled, I, 324.
  - Boiled, II, 325.
  - Chicken, 325.
  - Club French, 324.
  - Cream, I, 324.
  - Cream, II, 324.
  - Curry, 324.
  - French, 323.
  - German, 325.
  - Mayonnaise I, 326.
  - Mayonnaise II, 326.
  - Mayonnaise Cream, 327.
  - Oil, I, 325.
  - Oil, II, 326.
  - Parisian French, 323.
- Salad Dressings, 322.
- Salads, 322.
- Salmon, à la Martin, Ravigôte
  - Mayonnaise, 344.
  - Boiled, 162.
  - Box, 177.
  - Croquettes, 358.
  - Cutlets, 358.
  - Force-Meat, 149.
  - Moulded, Cucumber Sauce, 386.
  - Salad, 341.
  - Soup, 141.
- Salsify (Oyster Plant), Creamed, 296.
  - Fritters, 296.
- Salt, to Prevent Lumping, 587.
- Salted Almonds I, 535.
  - Almonds II, 536.
  - Peanuts, 536.
  - Pecans, 536.
- Salts, 5.
- Sandwiches, 549.
  - Anchovy, 550.
  - Bread and Butter Folds, 549.
  - Brown Bread, 552.
  - Cheese and Anchovy, 551.
  - Cheese Wafer, 553.
  - 642Chicken, 550.
  - Chicken, Halibut of, 172.
  - Club, 552.
  - Colonial, 552.
  - Egg, 550.
  - Fruit, 552.
  - German, 553.
  - Ginger, 552.
  - Ham, Chopped, 550.
  - Ham, Sliced, 550.
  - Jelly, 553.
  - Lettuce, 550.
  - Lobster, 551.
  - Lobster, à la Boulevard, 551.
  - Noisette, 552.
  - Nut and Cheese, 550.
  - Oyster, 551.
  - Rolled Bread, 549.
  - Russian, 553.
  - Sardine, 550.
  - Windsor, 551.
- Saratoga Chips, 314.
- Sardine Canapés, 554.
  - Creamed, 561.
  - Salad, 341.
  - Sandwiches, 550.
- Sardines Fried in Batter, 351.
  - Grilled, 561.
  - with Anchovy Sauce, 561.
- Sauce à l’Italienne, 269.
  - Allemande, 266.
  - Anchovy, 274.
  - Anchovy Butter, 273.
  - Apple, 570.
  - Apple, Spiced, 570.
  - Aurora, 169.
  - Bearnaise, 98, 275.
  - Béchamel, 271.
  - Béchamel, Yellow, 271.
  - Bercy, 172.
  - Bordelaise, 196.
  - Bread, 276.
  - Brown, I, 267.
  - Brown, II (Espagnole), 268.
  - Brown (Mushroom), I, 268.
  - Brown (Mushroom), II, 268, 363.
  - Caper, 267.
  - Cauliflower, 276.
  - Celery, 272.
  - Champagne, 269.
  - Cherry, 199.
  - Chestnut, 260.
  - Chili, 583.
  - Cranberry, 272.
  - Cream, 266.
  - Creole, 278.
  - Cucumber, I, 272.
  - Cucumber, II, 272, 387.
  - Cumberland, 259.
  - Currant Jelly, 276.
  - Currant Mint, 219.
  - Drawn Butter, 267.
  - Egg, I, 267.
  - Egg, II, 267.
  - Espagnole, 200.
  - l’Estragnon, 219.
  - Figaro, 275.
  - Finiste, 279.
  - Hollandaise, I, 274.
  - Hollandaise, II, 274.
  - Horseradish, I, 275.
  - Horseradish, II, 275.
  - Horseradish Hollandaise, 274.
  - Hot Mayonnaise, 278.
  - Hot Tartare, 277.
  - Lemon Butter, 273.
  - Lobster, I, 274.
  - Lobster, II, 275.
  - Lobster, III, 171.
  - Lobster Butter, 273.
  - Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 273.
  - Mint, 276.
  - Normandy, 171.
  - Olive, 268.
  - Olive and Almond, 272.
  - Orange, 269.
  - Oyster, 272.
  - Piquante, 268.
  - Port Wine, 277.
  - Poulette, 308.
  - Rhubarb, 572.
  - Rice, 276.
  - Russian, 278.
  - Shrimp, 267.
  - Silesian, 163.
  - Soubise, 267.
  - Sour Cream, 260.
  - Spanish, 271, 385.
  - Suprême, 273, 375.
  - Tartar, 273.
  - Tartare, 277.
  - Tomato, I, without Stock, 269.
  - Tomato, II, 270.
  - Tomato, III, 270.
  - Tomato and Mushroom, 270.
  - Tomato Cream, 271.
  - Trianon, 275.
  - Tyrolienne, 278.
  - Velouté, 266.
  - Victor Hugo, 197.
  - Vinaigrette, 277.
  - White, I, 266.
  - White, II, 266.
  - White, Thick, 266.
  - White, Thin, 266.
- Sauces, Fish and Meat, 265.
- Sauces, Pudding, 406–410.
  - Apricot, 410.
  - Brandy, 409.
  - Caramel Brandy, 410.
  - Chocolate, 396, 408, 418, 443.
  - Coffee, 443.
  - Cream, I, 407.
  - Cream, II, 407.
  - Creamy, I, 408.
  - Creamy, II, 408.
  - Currant Jelly, 574.
  - Foamy, I, 408.
  - Foamy, II, 408.
  - Fruit, 453.
  - Hard, 404, 409.
  - Lemon, I, 406.
  - Lemon, II, 406.
  - Lemon, III, 406.
  - Liquids, 404.
  - Madeira, Iced, 456.
  - Maraschino, 351.
  - 643Mocha, 397.
  - Molasses, 407.
  - Orange, 407.
  - Rum, 388.
  - Sabyon, 409.
  - Sterling, 409.
  - Strawberry, 408.
  - Vanilla, 406.
  - Wine, 409.
  - Yellow, I, 407.
  - Yellow, II, 407.
- Sausages, 238.
- Sautéd Bananas, 571.
  - Fillets of Beef, à la Moelle, 199.
  - Fillets of Beef, Cherry Sauce, 199.
  - Fillets of Beef, Stuffed Mushroom Caps, 200.
  - Mignon Fillets of Beef, Figaro Sauce, 199
  - Mignon Fillets of Beef, Trianon Sauce, 199.
  - Pears, Chocolate Sauce, 418.
- Sautéing, 22.
- Sauterne Cup, 45.
  - Jelly, 420.
- Savory Oysters, 182.
- Scallop and Tomato Salad, 343.
  - Soup, Cream of, 133.
  - Stew, 130.
- Scallops, 156.
  - Devilled, 369.
  - Fried, 186.
- Scones, Cream, 70.
- Scotch Broth, 221.
  - Soup, 117.
  - Wafers, 486.
  - Woodcock, 563.
- Scrambled Eggs, 98.
  - Country Style, 99.
  - with Anchovy Toast, 99.
  - with Calf’s Brains, 557.
  - with Sweetbreads, 557.
  - with Tomato Sauce, 98.
- Scrod, Broiled, 163.
- Seed Cakes, 490.
- Shad, 154.
  - Planked, 167.
  - Planked, with Creamed Roe, 168.
  - Roe, Baked, 169.
  - Roe, Broiled, 163.
  - Roe, Fried, 174.
  - Roe, with Celery, 370.
- Shellfish, Bivalve Mollusks, 155.
  - Clams, 156.
  - Crabs, 158.
  - Crustaceans, 156.
  - Lobsters, 156.
  - Oyster Crabs, 158.
  - Oysters, 155.
  - Scallops, 156.
  - Shrimps, 158.
- Sherbet, 433.
  - London, 442.
  - Milk, 437.
- Short Cake, Fruit, 84.
  - Strawberry, I, 83.
  - Strawberry, II, 84.
  - Strawberry, Rich, 84.
- Shrimp Salad, 341.
  - Sauce, 267.
- Shrimps, 158.
  - à la Newburg, 560.
- Sicilian Sorbet, 438.
- Silesian, 163.
- Sink Drain, Care of, 588.
- Smelts, 153.
  - à la Langtry, 169.
  - à la Menière, 173.
  - Baked and Stuffed, 168.
  - Fried, 173.
  - Fried and Stuffed, 174.
- Snowballs, 401.
  - Cake, 515.
  - Pudding I, 422.
  - Pudding II, 422.
- Soda Bicarbonate, 52.
- Sodium Chloride, 5, 192.
- Sole à la Bercy, 172.
- Sorbet, 433.
- Soubise Sauce, 267.
- Soufflé, Apricot, 396.
  - au Rhum, 378.
  - Cheese, 377.
  - Chestnut, 398.
  - Chicken, 262.
  - Chocolate, 397.
  - Coffee, 424.
  - Custard, 396.
  - Egg, 103.
  - Frozen, Glacé, 459.
  - Frozen Orange, 458.
  - Fruit, 397.
  - Lemon, 396.
  - Mocha, 397.
  - Nut Prune, 416.
  - Omelet, 379.
  - Ramequins, 377.
  - Spanish, 398.
  - Vegetable, 307.
- Souffléd Crackers, 145.
- Soups, 109.
  - à la Soubise, 126.
  - Almond, 125.
  - Appledore, 138.
  - Artichoke, Cream of, 136.
  - Asparagus, 123.
  - Bean, Baked, 135.
  - Bean, Black, 135.
  - Bean, String, 126.
  - Binding of, 113.
  - Bisque, Mock, 141.
  - Bisques, 110.
  - Bortchock, 116.
  - Bouillon, 109–114.
  - Bouillon, Clam, 129.
  - Bouillon, Iced, 114.
  - Bouillon, Tomato, with Oysters 114.
  - Cauliflower, Cream of, 125.
  - Celery, I, 136.
  - Celery, II, 137.
  - Celery, Cream of, 123.
  - Chestnut Purée, 126.
  - Chicken, 120.
  - Chicken, with Wine, 118.
  - 644Clam and Oyster, 131.
  - Clam and Tomato Bisque, 132.
  - Clam and Chicken Frappé, 132.
  - Clam, Cream of, 132.
  - Clam, with Poached Eggs, 131.
  - Clearing of, 112.
  - Consommé, 109, 128.
  - Consommé à la Royal, 128.
  - Consommé au Parmesan, 128.
  - Consommé aux Pâtes, 129.
  - Consommé, Bortchock, 129.
  - Consommé, Clam, 132.
  - Consommé, Claret, 129.
  - Consommé Colbert, 128.
  - Consommé d’Orleans, 129.
  - Consommé Princess, 129.
  - Consommé with Vegetables, 129.
  - Corn, 137.
  - Crab, 126.
  - Cream, 109.
  - Creole, 115.
  - Cucumber, 125.
  - Dinner, 116.
  - Duchess, 121.
  - Garnishings and Force-meats, 145–150.
  - Farina, 120.
  - French White, 119.
  - Halibut, 137.
  - Hygienic, 120.
  - Imperial, 122.
  - Julienne, 116.
  - Kornlet, 138.
  - Leek and Potato, 139.
  - Lettuce, Cream of, 124.
  - Lima Beans, Cream of, 136.
  - Lobster Bisque, 133.
  - Macaroni, 114.
  - Making, 110.
  - Mock Turtle, 127.
  - Mulligatawny, 127.
  - Mushroom, 124.
  - Mushroom, Cream of, 124.
  - Ox-tail, 117.
  - Oyster, 130.
  - Oyster, Amsterdam Style, 130.
  - Oyster, French, 130.
  - Oyster, Gumbo, 131.
  - Pea, 137.
  - Pea, Split, 138.
  - Philadelphia Pepper Pot, 127.
  - Potage à la Reine, 121.
  - Potato, 138.
  - Potato, Swiss, 139.
  - Purées, 109.
  - Royal, 121.
  - Salmon, 141.
  - Scallop, Cream of, 133.
  - Scotch, 117.
  - Spinach, 123.
  - Spring, 120.
  - Squash, 141.
  - St. Germain, 122.
  - Stock, Brown, 109–113.
  - Stock, Lamb, 109.
  - Stock, White, 109.
  - Stock, White, I, 118.
  - Stock, White, II, 118.
  - Stock, White, III, 118.
  - Tapioca Wine, 141.
  - Tomato, 140.
  - Tomato, Cream of, 140.
  - Tomato, with Stock, 115.
  - Turkey, 120.
  - Turkish, 115.
  - Veal and Sago, 122.
  - Vegetable, 139.
  - Watercress, Cream of, 124.
  - White, 119.
  - with Fish Stock, 129–134.
  - with Meat Stock, 113–129.
  - without Stock, 135–141.
- Sour Cream Sauce, 260.
- Spaghetti, 92.
  - Timbales, 363.
- Spanish Cake, 510.
  - Cream, 423.
  - Omelet, 107.
  - Pickles, 585.
  - Sauce, 271.
  - Sauce, for Salmi of Duck, 264.
  - Soufflé, 398.
- Spice Cookies, 486.
- Spiced Currants, 582.
- Spinach, 299.
  - à la Béchamel, 300.
  - Boiled, 299.
  - French Style, 300.
  - Purée of, 300.
  - Salad, 335.
  - Soup, 123.
- Sponge Cake, 502.
  - Cake, Cheap, 501.
  - Cake, Chocolate, 511.
  - Cake, Cream, 501.
  - Cake, Hot Water, 501.
  - Drops, 504.
  - Fritters, 353.
  - Strawberry, 429.
- Spring Mousse, 384.
- Spun Sugar, 548.
- Squash, 300.
  - Biscuits, 67.
  - Hubbard, 300.
  - Marrow, 300.
  - Pie I, 473.
  - Pie II, 474.
  - Soup, 141.
  - Summer, Boiled, 301.
  - Summer, Fried, I, 301.
  - Summer, Fried, II, 301.
  - Turban, 300.
  - Winter, Baked, I, 301.
  - Winter, Baked, II, 301.
  - Winter, Boiled, 301.
  - Winter, Steamed, 301.
- Starch, 5.
  - Corn, 6.
  - Dextrine, 5.
  - Dextrose, 6.
  - Glycogen, 6.
  - Test for, 5.
- Sterling Sauce, 409.
- Stew, Beef, with Dumplings, 205.
  - Irish, with Dumplings, 221.
  - 645Oyster, 129.
  - Scallop, 130.
- Stewed Prunes, 572.
- Stewing, 19.
- St. Germain Soup, 122.
- Sticks, Bread, 59.
  - Cheese, 145.
  - Imperial (in Rings), 145.
  - Salad, 60.
- St. James Pudding, 401.
- Strawberries. How to Prepare, for
  - Serving, 567.
- Strawberry Baskets, 362.
  - Bavarian Cream, 430.
  - Cottage Pudding, 395.
  - Filling, 524.
  - Ice I, 436.
  - Ice II, 436.
  - Ice Cream I, 444.
  - Ice Cream II, 444.
  - Mousse, 454.
  - Preserves, 580.
  - Sauce, 408.
  - Short Cake I, 83.
  - Short Cake II, 84.
  - Short Cake, Rich, 84.
  - Sponge, 429.
  - Whip, 414.
- String Bean Salad, 329.
- String Bean Soup, 126.
- Stuffed Clams, 370.
  - Dates I, 535.
  - Dates II, 535.
  - Peppers I, 298.
  - Peppers II, 298.
  - Tomato Salad I, 332.
  - Tomato Salad, II, 332.
  - Tomato Salad, German Style, 332.
  - Tomatoes, 303.
- Stuffing I, 247.
  - II, 247.
  - Chestnut, 255.
  - Chestnut, for Goose, 256.
  - Fish, I, 164.
  - Fish, II, 165.
  - for Chicken in Aspic, 384.
  - for Mutton, 218.
  - for Potted Pigeons, 259.
  - for Smelts, 168.
  - Oyster, 166.
  - Oyster, for Turkey, 255.
  - Peanut, for Duck, 257.
  - Potato, for Goose, 256.
  - Poultry, 244.
  - Turkey, Swedish Style, 255.
- Succotash, 291.
- Sucrose, 6.
- Suet, 8, 192.
  - Pudding, 402.
- Sugar, 6.
  - Barley, 7.
  - Boiled, for Confections, 544.
  - Cane (Sucrose), 6.
  - Changes in Cooking of, 7.
  - Composition of, 6.
  - Fruit (Diabetin), 6.
  - Fruit (Levulose), 6.
  - Grape (Glucose), 6.
  - Milk (Lactose), 6.
  - Spun, 548.
  - to Caramelize, 586.
  - to Heat, 573.
- Sugared Popped Corn, 537.
- Suitable Combinations for Serving, 592.
- Sultana Caramels, 543.
  - Roll, with Claret Sauce, 451.
- Sunshine Cake, 502.
- Suprême of Chicken, 367.
  - Sauce, 273.
- Swedish Bread, 63.
  - Rolls, 60.
  - Tea Braid, 64.
  - Tea Ring I, 64.
  - Tea Ring II, 64.
  - Timbales, 362.
  - Wafers, 492.
- Sweetbreads, 232.
  - à la Mont Vert, 371.
  - à la Napoli, 233.
  - à la Poulette, 233.
  - and Bacon, 234.
  - and Celery Salad, 347.
  - and Cucumber Salad I, 346.
  - and Cucumber Salad II, 346.
  - and Mushroom Timbales, 366.
  - Broiled, 232.
  - Country Style, 233.
  - Creamed, 233.
  - Creamed, and Chicken, 233.
  - Cutlets of, à la Victoria, 361.
  - Cutlets with Asparagus Tips, 234.
  - Epigrams of, 361.
  - Eugénie, Braised, 234.
  - in Peppers, 372.
  - Larded, 233.
  - Mousse, 367.
  - Ramequins, 371.
  - with Tomato Sauce, 234.
- Sweet Pickled Peaches, 583.
  - Pickled Pears, 583.
- Swiss Pudding, 400.
  - Salad, 345.
- Swordfish, Broiled, 163.
- Tables, Composition of Cereals, 85.
  - Composition of Fish, 161.
  - Composition of Meats, 195.
  - Composition of Vegetables, 280.
  - for Boiling Sugar for Confections, 544.
  - for Cooking Cereals, 86.
  - of Measures and Weights, 27.
  - Time for Cooking, 28–31.
- Tapioca, 6.
  - Apple, Pudding, 391.
  - Cream, 445.
  - Custard Pudding, 391.
  - Newton, Pudding, 391.
  - Peach, Pudding, 391.
  - Wine Soup, 141.
- Tartar Sauce, 273.
- Tartare Sauce, 277.
- Tartlets, Almond, 478.
  - Lemon, 479.
  - Polish, 478.
- 646Tarts, 478.
  - Banbury, 475.
  - Calvé, 479.
- Tea, 32.
  - and Coffee Pots, Care of, 589.
  - and Coffee Stains, to Remove, 590.
  - Black, 32.
  - De John’s, 34.
  - Five o’clock, 34.
  - Green, 32.
  - Iced, 34.
  - Making of, 34.
  - Russian, 34.
  - Wellesley, 34.
- Terrapin, 159, 175.
  - à la Baltimore, 175.
  - à la Maryland, 175.
  - Calf’s Head, à la, 210.
  - Mock, 262.
  - to Cook, 175.
  - Washington, 176.
- Thanksgiving Dinner, Menu for, 600.
  - Pudding I, 402.
  - Pudding II, 402.
- Theine, 33.
- Theobromine, 40.
- Third Bread, 56.
- Timbale Iron, to Heat, 362.
- Timbales, Chicken, I, 365.
  - Chicken, II, 366.
  - Chicken, III, 366.
  - Egg, 104.
  - Forming of, 362.
  - Halibut, I, 364.
  - Halibut, II, 364.
  - Ham, 366.
  - Lobster, I, 364.
  - Lobster, II, 364.
  - Macaroni, 363.
  - Pea, 298.
  - Pimento, 363.
  - Rice, 363.
  - Spaghetti, 363.
  - Swedish, 362.
  - Sweetbread and Mushroom, 366.
- Tipsy Pudding, 413.
- Toast, Brown Bread, Milk, 68.
  - Cream, 68.
  - Cream, Tomato, 68.
  - Dry, 67.
  - German, 69.
  - Milk, I, 68.
  - Milk, II, 68.
  - Oyster, 183.
  - Water, 68.
- Toasted Marshmallows, 422.
- Toasted Salt Fish, 178.
- Tomato and Cheese Salad, 334.
- Tomato and Cucumber Salad, 333.
  - and Horseradish Salad, 332.
  - and Mushroom Sauce, 270.
  - and Watercress Salad, 333.
  - Bouillon with Oysters, 114.
  - Ciboulettes, 333.
  - Cream Sauce, 271.
  - Cream Toast, 68.
  - Fritters, 351.
  - Jelly Salad, 334.
  - Pickle, Ripe, 583.
  - Preserve, 582.
  - Rarebit, 563.
  - Salad, Frozen, 334.
  - Sauce I, without Stock, 269.
  - Sauce II, 270.
  - Sauce III, 270.
  - Soup, 140.
  - Soup, Cream of, 140.
  - Soup, with Stock, 115.
- Tomatoes, 302.
  - à la Creme, 302.
  - Baked, I, 303.
  - Baked, II, 303.
  - Broiled, 302.
  - Canned, 580.
  - Devilled, 303.
  - in Aspic, 382.
  - Scalloped, 302.
  - Sliced, 302.
  - Stewed, 302.
  - Stuffed, 303.
  - Stuffed with Pineapple, 332.
- Tongue, Boiled, 207.
  - Braised, 207.
  - Breaded, with Tomato Sauce, 563.
  - Calves’, 210.
  - Calves’, Sauce Piquante, 210.
  - in Aspic, 383.
- Trianon Sauce, 275.
- Tripe, à la Creole, 210.
  - à la Provençale, 210.
  - Batter for, 209.
  - Batter, in, 209.
  - Broiled, 209.
  - Lyonnaise, 209.
  - Where Found, 192.
- Truffles, 283.
- Tumblers, Care of, 588.
- Turbot, Little (see Halibut), 153.
- Turkey, 241.
  - Boiled, 254.
  - Gravy, 255.
  - Minced, 263.
  - Roast, 254.
  - Roast, with Chestnut Stuffing, 255.
  - Roast, with Oyster Stuffing, 255.
  - Roast, Scalloped, 263.
  - Roast, Soup, 120.
  - Roast, Swedish Style, Stuffing, 255.
  - to Carve, 255.
  - with Chestnut Gravy, 255.
- Turkish Pilaf I, 89.
  - Pilaf II, 89.
  - Pilaf III, 89.
  - Soup, 115.
- Turnips, 304.
  - Creamed, 304.
  - Croquettes, 304.
  - Mashed, 304.
- Tutti-Frutti, 581.
  - Candy, 346.
- Twin Mountain Muffins, 71.
- Tyrolienne Sauce, 278.
- 647Unfermented Bread, 56.
  - Grape Juice, 44.
- Union Grill, 558.
- University Pudding, 450.
- Uses for Stale Bread, 69.
- Vanilla Ice Cream I, 442.
  - Croquettes (Ice Cream), 444.
  - Ice Cream II, 443.
  - Sauce, 406.
  - Wafers, 487.
- Veal, 226.
  - and Sago Soup, 122.
  - Birds, 229.
  - Blanquette of, 231.
  - Braised Shoulder of, 228.
  - Chops, Bavarian, 227.
  - Croquettes, 359.
  - Cutlets, with Brown Sauce, 226.
  - English, Meat Pie, 228.
  - Fricandeau, 229.
  - Fricassee of, 227.
  - India Curry, 229.
  - Loaf I, 230.
  - Loaf II, 230.
  - Loin of, Jardinière, 228.
  - Minced, on Toast, 231.
  - Minuten Fleisch, 228.
  - Ragoût of, 231.
  - Roast, 229.
- Vegetable Acids and Where Found, 12.
  - Soufflé, 307.
  - Soup, 139.
- Vegetables, 280.
  - à la Poulette, 308.
  - Care of, 281.
  - Composition of, 280.
  - Cooking of, 282.
  - Curried, 307.
- Velouté Sauce, 266.
- Velvet Cake, 509.
  - Candy, Molasses, 537.
- Venison, 241.
  - Cutlets, 260.
  - Cutlets with Apples, 564.
  - Jelly, 575.
  - Roast Leg of, 260.
  - Saddle of, 260.
  - Steak, Broiled, 259.
  - Steak, Chestnut Sauce, 259.
  - Steak, Sautéd, Cumberland
  - Sauce, 259.
- Victor Hugo Sauce, 197.
- Victoria Punch, 441.
- Vinaigrette Sauce, 277.
- Vinegar, 14.
- Vinegar Candy, 538.
- Violet Ice Cream, 448.
- Virginia Waffles, 80.
- Vol-au-vents, 379, 463.
- Wafers, Almond, 494.
  - English Rolled, I, 494.
  - English Rolled, II, 495.
  - Kornettes, 493.
  - Rolled, 494.
  - Scotch, 486.
  - Scottish Fancies, 487.
  - Swedish, 492.
  - Vanilla, 487.
- Waffles, 80.
  - Raised, 81.
  - Rice, 80.
  - Virginia, 80.
  - with Boiled Cider, 80.
- Waldorf Salad, 339.
- Walnut Cake, 510.
- Walnuts, Creamed, 543.
  - Dipped, 546.
  - Jellied, 421.
- Warming over Beef, 212.
  - over Fish, 176.
  - over Mutton and Lamb, 223.
  - over Potatoes, 319.
  - over Poultry and Game, 261.
  - over Veal, 231.
- Washington Pie, 507.
- Water, 4, 192.
  - Acidulated, 587.
  - Alkaline and Mineral, 4.
  - Apollinaris, 4.
  - Boiled, 4.
  - Distilled, 4.
  - Hard, 4.
  - Ice, 433.
  - Lime, 10.
  - Lithia, 4.
  - Poland, 4.
  - Saline, 4.
  - Seltzer, 4.
  - Soda, 4.
  - Soft, 4.
  - Sulphur, 4.
  - Temperature of, 4.
  - Toast, 68.
  - Vichy, 4.
- Watercress and Cucumber Salad, 328.
  - Dressed, 328.
  - Soup, Cream of, 124.
- Ways of Baking, 20.
  - of Boiling, 18.
  - of Boning, 24.
  - of Braising, 22.
  - of Cooking, 18.
  - of Cooking Fish, 160.
  - of Egging and Crumbing, 22.
  - of Fricasseeing, 22.
  - of Frying, 20.
  - of Larding, 23.
  - of Preparing Food for Cooking, 22.
  - of Roasting, 20.
  - of Sautéing, 22.
  - of Stewing, 19.
- Wedding Cake I, 522.
  - Cake II, 522.
- Welsh Rarebit I, 562.
  - Rarebit II, 562.
- Wheat, 47.
  - Processes of Milling, 47.
- White Bait Garnish, 148.
  - Corn Cake, 75.
  - Corn Meal Cake, 76.
  - Fish, 153.
  - Fish, Planked, 167.
  - 648Fondant, 544.
  - Mountain Cream, 528.
  - Nut Cake, 517.
  - Sauce I, 266.
  - Sauce II, 266.
  - Sauce, Thick, for Cutlets and Croquettes, 266.
  - Sauce, Thin, 266.
  - Soup, 119.
  - Soup, French, 119.
  - Soup Stock, 109.
  - Soup Stock I, 118.
  - Soup Stock II, 118.
  - Soup Stock III, 118.
- Wiersbick’s Salad, 333.
- Windsor Sandwiches, 551.
- Wine Cream, 417.
  - Dressing,
  - Jelly I, 419.
  - Jelly II, 420.
  - Sauce, 409.
- Wintergreen Wafers, 541.
- Yeast, 49.
  - Fermentation, 49.
  - Plant, 50.
- Yellow Sauce I, 407.
  - Sauce II, 407.
  - Sauce, Béchamel, 271.
- Yorkshire Pudding, 202.
- Zigaras a la Russe, 380.

The absolute purity, high quality, delicious flavor and thorough reliability of
WALTER BAKER & CO.’S
Cocoa and Chocolate

have secured for these preparations the endorsement of good cooks and housekeepers throughout the world.

Registered
U. S. Pat. Office

One good housekeeper says: “All the early years of my life were spent in the tropics of India; and in the many English and American homes with which I was familiar Baker’s Cocoa was almost universally used. Since coming to this country, I have experimented with other makes, but have put them all aside for Baker’s, which seems so much more acceptable.”

Send for free recipe book finely illustrated
WALTER BAKER & CO. Ltd.
Established
1780 DORCHESTER, MASS.

THE ONLY Baking Powder made from Royal Grape Cream of Tartar
ROYAL
BAKING POWDER
Absolutely Pure
Safeguards your food against Alum and Lime Phosphate

Economizes eggs, flour and butter; makes the biscuit, cake and pastry more appetizing, nutritious and wholesome

FOSS’
Pure Flavoring
Extracts
(FRUITS IN LIQUID FORM)
Highest Award, Gold Medal, 1892, Mass. Charitable Mechanic Association
These Extracts are used and recommended by Miss Fannie M. Farmer. Isn’t this sufficient?

Fruit from which Foss’ Pure Extract Lemon is made

Fruit from which Foss’ Pure Extract Orange is made

Made by Schlotterbeck & Foss Co., Portland, Me.
Sold by all First-Class Grocers
Our guarantee to the U. S. Government, Serial No. 685
Guaranteed under the Food and Drugs Act, June 30, 1906
JUNKET

Junket Tablets with pure milk and a little flavoring make exquisite desserts. The addition of various fruits will make the dessert still more delicious.

ICE CREAM

Made with Junket Tablets is unsurpassed for velvety smoothness and is easily digested.

As a tempting, nourishing, retainable food for invalids and children Junket is without a rival.

10 Junket Tablets 10c.
JUNKET BRAND
BUTTERMILK TABLETS

These tablets are prepared at the bacteriological department of Chr. Hansen’s Laboratory, Copenhagen, Denmark.

They contain the pure Lactic Ferment Culture compressed into tablets. They convert fresh milk into buttermilk or what is more properly called Lactic Acid Milk. They make a very palatable and healthful beverage and are a preventive for many intestinal disorders. Buttermilk Tablets are prescribed by physicians generally.

15 Tablets 25c.
At grocers and druggists or by mail direct from the Laboratory
CHR. HANSEN’S LABORATORY
BOX 2165, LITTLE FALLS, N. Y.
“Choisa” Ceylon Tea
PURE RICH
FRAGRANT
1 lb. Canisters
60 Cents
½ lb. Canisters
35 Cents
PACKED IN PARCHMENT-LINED ONE POUND AND HALF-POUND CANISTERS
We invite comparison with other Teas of similar price
S. S. PIERCE CO.
IMPORTERS AND GROCERS
BOSTON Tremont and Beacon Sts., and Copley Square
Coolidge Corner BROOKLINE
The Boston Cooking School uses and recommends these goods
Wales’ HOME
MADE Jellies

ARE PRONOUNCED BY A SCOTCH EXPERT, WHO IS ACQUAINTED WITH THE PRODUCT OF ALL COUNTRIES, TO BE

“The Finest in the World”

They contain no Starch Paste, Gelatine or Glue Stock for stiffening. No Glucose or “Grape Sugar” for “filling.” No Chemicals for coloring. No Preservatives to prevent fermentation. They are not made of Refuse Canning Stock,—cores and skins,—but of Pure Fruit Juice, true to name, and best Refined Sugar, and Nothing Else.

Wales’ ◆◆◆◆
HOME MADE
Preserves

ARE MADE FROM THE BEST TABLE FRUIT, IN ITS MOST PERFECT CONDITION, AND BEST REFINED SUGARS

I use no bleaching process to make green fruit look well.

They contain no coloring matter or chemical preservatives.

They are ABSOLUTELY PURE.

“Purity in materials,” “perfect condition in fruit,” “scrupulous care in their preparation,” have made them the world over The Standard of Excellence.

IF YOUR GROCER DOES NOT KEEP MY GOODS, SEND FOR PRICE LIST TO

George E. Wales, Newton Centre, Mass.
“The Aristocrat of Olive Oils”
Nicelle Olive Oil

Mrs. Helen Armstrong, Teacher of Cookery, Lectures in Domestic Science, 159 W. Sixty-sixth Street. Chicago. Mr. M. M. Michael, New York, N. Y. Dear Sir,—Believing thoroughly in the importance of olive oil as a food, I have tested many of the well-known brands in the market, but find none which, in my demonstration lectures or home use, gives such perfect satisfaction as the Nicelle Olive Oil. Yours very truly, Helen Armstrong. | Made and Bottled in NICE, FRANCE The Highest Type of Pure Olive Oil Producible | Miss Farmer’s School of Cookery, 30 Huntington Avenue, Boston, Mass. Seville Packing Co., New York. Gentlemen,—After repeated trials in the use of Nicelle Olive Oil, I find it always maintains the same high standard, therefore I feel to recommend it as a superior product. Yours very truly, Fannie Merritt Farmer.

PROVED BY EXHAUSTIVE TESTS OF THE
United States Bureau of Chemistry
SUPERIOR TO ALL BRANDS TESTED
See Bulletin 77–Page 55 SEVILLE PACKING CO.

Your claim that the published figures on Page 55–Bulletin 77 prove NICELLE OLIVE OIL the SUPERIOR of all brands tested IS MOST FULLY JUSTIFIED. STILLWELL & GLADDING,

Chemists to New York Produce Exchange

Boston. Seville Packing Co., New York, N. Y. Dear Sir,—Your letter of the 20th received. I am very much pleased to be able to note Nicelle Olive Oil in “Practical Dietetics,” for its use has demonstrated its superiority. I remain, Yours very truly, Alida Frances Pattee. 34 Berkeley Street, Somerville, Mass. |  | The Boston Cooking School Magazine of Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. Official Journal of the Boston Cooking School Corporation. Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. Seville Packing Co., New York City, N. Y. My dear Sirs,—I have used Nicelle Olive Oil for some years. It is unquestionably an oil of superior quality. Very truly yours, Janet M. Hill.

NICELLE OLIVE OIL CO., Props., New York City
Successors to SEVILLE PACKING CO.
STICKNEY & POOR’S

Pure Spices and Mustards

Mustard, pure and full strength, the kind that is always to be relied on, both as a condiment and as a medicine. No artificial colors are used in its preparation.

Ask your grocer
Spice that is pure

and unadulterated, ground by such an improved method that none of its strength is lost in the process. It gives the best results.

STICKNEY & POOR SPICE CO.
FOUNDED 1815
Every good cook knows what to expect from
SQUIRE’S
Kettle Rendered
Pure Leaf Lard

IN USE FOR OVER 60 YEARS

Your grandmother used it, your mother used it, and you should use it if you wish to obtain the best results.

Rendered just as your great grandmother rendered raw leaf before the days of packing houses.

Put up in a plain, old-fashioned tin pail, but as honest and as good as it is old-fashioned and plain.

Recommended by the Boston Cooking School.

Recommended by the Editor of the Boston Cooking School Cook Book.

Recommended by the Editor of the New England Cook Book.

RENDERED ONLY BY
JOHN P. SQUIRE & COMPANY
BOSTON, MASS.
Makers of Squire’s Arlington Sausage and Squire’s High-Grade Hams and Bacon

MADE FROM THE CHOICEST of SELECTED SPRING WHEAT & Guaranteed to be Unbleached

Introduced over twelve years ago, it has held its position as the Highest Grade of Flour ever produced
Sands, Taylor & Wood Co.
Boston and Providence

FLEISCHMANN’S
Compressed YEAST
HAS NO EQUAL

The MODEL HUB
makes
model
cooks
The plain, smooth and faultless lines of the
MODEL HUB
EBONY FINISH

Range on the outside are but the index to the splendid working qualities on the inside.

HUB RANGES are perfectly adjusted cookers—great fuel and time savers—thoroughly dependable—and the best cooks and leading cooking schools use them because they are. Why don’t you?

Write us for a copy of “Range Talk, No. 9,” which tells all about the HUB Ranges.

SMITH & ANTHONY CO.
Makers 52–54 Union Street, Boston, Mass.
CHOICE
House Furnishings
FOREIGN and DOMESTIC.

No other house in this country can show such a variety. French Fry Pans; Jelly Sieves; Enamelled, Tin, and Copper Moulds—more than 1200 patterns and different sizes; Soufflé Dishes; Coffee Mills; Pepper Mills; Table Coffee Roasters; Coffee Pots and Machines; Pot-au-feu; Shirred Egg Dishes; Casseroles; Marmites; Salad Forks and Spoons; Salad Washers; Cook’s Knives; Hateletts; Vegetable Cutters; Paste Cutters; Ramikens; Parisien Potato Cutters; Wood Cooking-School Spoons; also, a large variety of English and German Culinary Goods.

We call special attention to our Plate Warmers, to use with charcoal and for register.

English Knife Machines clean from two to eight knives at a time. Also, Knife Boards.

Fireplace Fittings, Andirons, Fenders, Fire Sets, Brushes, and Bellows.

The Original
WATERMAN
Stores
F. A. WALKER & CO.
House Furnishers,
Importers—Wholesalers—Retailers.
Established, 1839.
Catalogues with 3000 illustrations at Store, or mailed on receipt of 20 cents for mailing.
83–85 CORNHILL, BOSTON, MASS.
SCOLLAY SQ. SUBWAY STATION.
Magic
Covers
Testimonials

I have sold over a thousand. After a few are sold they sell others.

Mrs. G. P. Witham,
Waterville, Me.

We have done away with the rolling board and use Magic Covers for bread, cookies, doughnuts, and pastry. I recommend them in the hospitals where I give lessons to the nurses.

Fannie Merritt Farmer,
Boston Cooking School.

I find the Covers all you claim; would not do without them. You may send me 25.

L. A. Scattergood,
Syracuse Model Home and School.

Please send me two dozen and a half Covers. My pupils are very much pleased with them, and a good many want them.

Stella A. Downing, N. E. Cooking School.
Price, 65 Cents, Postpaid.
MAGIC COVERS. WHAT ARE THEY?

The greatest invention of the age! A great saving of time, strength, and material. Neat, durable, and effectual. Every housekeeper should have one. By their use the softest dough can be handled without the slightest possibility of sticking to moulding board or rolling pin. They are guaranteed to be absolutely as represented. One set will last for years. They will save many times their cost in material alone. They are highly recommended by leading cooks and teachers of cooking. Dough cannot stick to Magic Covers.

Address, Magic Cover Co.,
CORRINA, ME.

The Covers are better than I imagined. The very poetry of pastry work.

Franc Baker, Morenci, Mich.

I have used the Covers and would not do without them.

Eloise P. Flord,
Grace Hospital, Detroit, Mich.

The class has used my covers and the ladies all want them. One trial will sell a Magic Cover. I am sure I can sell five or six dozen.

Stella A. Dodge,
School of Domestic Science, Erie, Penn.
For
Rolling Pin
and
Bread Board
MISS FARMER’S NEW BOOK
Food & Cookery for the Sick and Convalescent
By FANNIE MERRITT FARMER
Principal of Miss Farmer’s Cooking School, and author of “The Boston Cooking School Cook Book,” and “Chafing-Dish Possibilities.”
WITH SIXTY ILLUSTRATIONS IN HALF-TONE

A work of exceptional interest and importance is the new book, “Food and Cookery for the Sick and Convalescent,” by Fannie Merritt Farmer, the author of “The Boston Cooking School Cook Book,” etc. It is designed to meet the needs of the trained nurse, the mother, or of any one having care of the sick. The work is the result of years of study along the lines of food and feeding, and contains much scientific knowledge simply given.

The opening chapters are invaluable to those whose duty it is to care for the sick, and of equal importance to those who see in correct feeding the way of preventing much of the illness about us. The chapter on Infant Feeding is an authoritative guide to aid in the development of the baby, and child feeding is considered with like care.

The hundreds of recipes, many of which have their caloric value given, are for the most part individual, thus requiring but a minimum of time for their preparation. Suggestions as to diet in various diseases have not been overlooked. Sixty full-page half-tone illustrations add to the utility and beauty of the book.

12mo. Cloth. $1.50 net. Postpaid, $1.65.
LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, Publishers
34 Beacon Street, Boston, Mass.
Londonderry
The All ’round Table Water

Never an occasion of dining where Londonderry will not “fit in”—whether on the home table or at the cafe, club or feast.

Pure and healthful, it is the table water recommended by physicians for its Alkaline properties.

Londonderry is used in the best of homes in the making of punches, lemonade, orangeade and other delightful concoctions. Served with grape juice or other temperance drinks, it gives an added touch of enjoyment.

Sparkling (effervescent) in the 3 usual sizes; Still (plain) in half gallon bottles.
Londonderry Lithia Spring Water Co.
Nashua, N. H.
MALT BREAKFAST FOOD

Gives the prudent, economical housekeeper more cereal value for her money than any package cereal. At 15 cents per package (20 cents west of the Rockies) there is the equivalent of over three packages of the ready to eat flaked foods, wheat or corn, and when properly prepared for the table, one package of Malt Breakfast Food will give more single portions than any granular cereal we know of.

Made from the choicest gluten wheat of the north west, Malt Breakfast Food contains all the wheat but the outer coating of bran, combined with a product of Barley Malt, adding a delicious flavor and rendering readily digestible the starch of the wheat.

For Flavor, Food Value and Economy insist upon having

Malt Breakfast Food
Used in and recommended by Miss Farmer’s School of Cookery
THE MALTED CEREALS CO.
BURLINGTON, VERMONT
White Mountain Freezer
THE TRIPLE MOTION ICE-CREAM FREEZER

Makes perfect ice-creams and sherbets in a very few minutes, as well as an unlimited variety of delicious frozen fruits, puddings, and chilled dainties at a very trifling cost. It will surprise you to learn the great extent of “White Mountain” usefulness. Send for our new recipe book, “Frozen Dainties,” which tells everything you need to know about the making of the most delicious desserts and gives about one hundred recipes.

THE WHITE MOUNTAIN FREEZER CO.
NASHUA, N. H.
BELL’S SEASONING

Acknowledged by all to be 40 Years the original favorite. Imitated by many; equalled by none for delicately Flavoring Dressings for Poultry, Game, Meats, Fish, Oysters, etc.

1876, J. B. Wistar, Grand Central Hotel, New York City, wrote: “I have been over-pursuaded to try other makes. In every instance have been obliged to either return or throw it away and fall back on the old reliable, BELL’S SEASONING.”

1878, A. Ainslee, Tremont House, Boston, wrote: “Unquestionably the most superior article in use.”

THIRTY YEARS LATER

Allen Ainslie, President, Ainslie & Grabow Company, Managers of Hotel Lenox, Hotel Empire, Hotel Tuileries, Boston, Mass., Hotel Titchfield, Port Antonio, Jamaica, New Ocean House, Swampscott, Mass., writes, January 1st, 1909, as follows: “I take great pleasure in reminding you that I have constantly used BELL’S SPICED SEASONING in the various hotels which I have conducted since 1876, and I consider it the best article of its kind on the market to-day.”

Moseley’s New Haven House,
New Haven, Connecticut, September 11, 1878.

“I have used your Poultry Seasoning for the past year, and find it a better Seasoning for all kinds of game, poultry, etc., than any article I have ever used.”

S. H. Moseley.
THIRTY YEARS LATER

Wm. H. Moseley, son of S. H. Moseley, writes: “I wish to add my testimony to that given you by my father in 1878, and to say that we have continued to use your Poultry Seasoning to the exclusion of all others, and find it has been kept up to the high standard of quality referred to by him.”

February 13, 1909, Harvey & Wood, Managers of Hotel Bellevue and Hotel Canterbury, Boston, and Piedmont Hotel, Atlanta, Ga., write: “We are using your BELL’S DRESSING in all of our hotels. We have not used any other for fifteen years, as our cooks prefer it to any other.”

One of Boston’s noted hotel keepers has said, “I would as soon think of discharging my chef, as to do without BELL’S SPICED SEASONING.”

The William G. Bell Company
SOLE MANUFACTURERS
50 COMMERCIAL STREET, BOSTON, MASS.

Purity in grape juice means plain grape juice; that is, juice as you find it in the grape.

Purity is lost by putting in preservatives or by adding coloring matter, or by diluting the juice or by lack of care in any step in manufacture.

Welch’s grape juice is pure. The juice from the grapes we use needs nothing to prevent spoiling, nothing to heighten its color and nothing to enhance its food value.

The grapes are inspected before they are washed, washed before they are stemmed and stemmed before they are pressed.

They are the choicest Concords grown in the famous Chautauqua vineyards. We have learned how to transfer the juice from the luscious clusters to the bottle unchanged in any way.

If your dealer doesn’t keep Welch’s, send $3.00 for trial dozen pints, express prepaid east of Omaha. Booklet of forty delicious ways of using Welch’s Grape Juice free. Sample 3–oz. bottle by mail, 10c.

THE WELCH GRAPE JUICE CO., WESTFIELD, N. Y.
What Users Think of Wheatena

“We are all very fond of it. When I cook any other cereal the children say ‘Cook Wheatena, Mamma, I like that best.’”

“It is quite satisfactory; we use it regularly, and like it better than any other. While others may please at first, they do not wear as well.”

“The children all enjoy Wheatena very much, and always call for ‘second helps.’ The cook had difficulty at first in making enough for the young people. Like Oliver Twist they always called for ‘more.’”

“I am much happier when I use it than at other times.”

“My boy does not care for any cooked cereal but Wheatena. I find he is better satisfied after a breakfast of it, and does not ask for something before lunch.”

“It will give you more good, strong food for the size package than any other cereal on the market. It’s good.”

“I began to use it thirteen years ago when I had my first attack of gastritis, and am using it now. My stomach will not retain anything else during these attacks.”

“I have five children who eat it every morning for breakfast and are always lost without it.”

Wheatena
Price Fifteen Cents at All Grocers

Coffee in air-tight packages, packed automatically, no handling.

All the rich, full flavor of the finest berries kept for you.

That’s Chase & Sanborn’s Coffee.

A hostess who serves Chase & Sanborn’s Tea receives nothing but compliments on its fragrance and delicacy. The sealed, air-tight, screw top canister preserves the original flavor of the most carefully selected teas sold to-day.

FOR SALE BY LEADING GROCERS EVERYWHERE

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

1. P. 132, changed “⅓ flour” to “⅓ cup flour”.
2. P. 404, changed “½ grated nutmeg” to “½ teaspoon grated nutmeg”.
3. Silently corrected typographical errors and variations in spelling.
4. Archaic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings retained as printed.

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